Glass 
Book 



The Book of Gardening. 



The Book ^ - 
^ of Gardening 



H Ibanbbooh of Ibovticultiuc 



By J. M. ABBOTT, W. G. BAKER, CHARLES BENNETT, 
H. J. CHAPMAN, JAMES DOUGLAS, CHARLES 
FRIEDRICH, A. GRIESSEN, F. M. MARK, TREVOR 
MONMOUTH, GEO. SCHNEIDER, MORTIMER 
THORN, J. J. WILLIS, and ALAN WYNNE, 



AND 



Edited by W. D. DRURV 

(Author of "Home Gardening," "Insects Injurious to Fruit," 

" Popular Bulb Culture," Sec). 



VERY FULLY ILLUSTRATED. 



-1 c 

LONDON, ENG.: L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C. 

NEW YORK, U.S.A. : CHAS. SCRIBNER'S SONS, 
153-157, FIFTH AVENUE. 

1900. 



LONDON : 

1. UPCOTT GILL, LONDON AND COUNTY PRINTING WORKS, 
DRURY LANE, W.C. 



7 



• < • 




Preface. 



Of so many components is Horticulture 
built up that to so marshal the various 
units that they form a fairly compre- 
hensible whole, of service alike to the 
amateur and professional, is not by any means an easy task. 
The fact is, the professional gardener is called upon to play 
many parts. In some establishments he has not only to prove 
himself an adept in the cultivation of flowers and decorative 
plants, but he has also to positively excel in the raising of 
fruits and vegetables for the table. Indeed, it would not be 
untruthful to say that in a very large number of places his 
position greatly depends upon the amount of skill he is able to. 
bring to bear upon the latter departments. In the preparation, 
therefore, of this book the multifarious duties of the professional 
on the one hand, and the exacting requirements of the present- 
day amateur on the other, have had to be kept steadily in mind. 

As hinted in the Introduction, places have been found for sub- 
jects which often are neglected, and the endeavour to give 
prominence to these phases of Horticulture will, it is hoped, 
prove acceptable to the garden-loving public. Trees and shrubs 
for instance may be cited as amongst those subjects of which 
far too little is known, considering their value and importance 
in the beautification of the outdoor garden, for there is nothing 
that for permanent effect can compare with them. 

What trees and shrubs are to the outdoor garden, the Palms 
and the Bamboos are to the indoor one : their habit and form 
are as diversified as are the uses to which they may be put. 



vi 



PREFACE. 



Yet for all that, so far as the first-named are concerned, there 
is very little information obtainable in a readily accessible form. 
Then to take a widely different class of plants, what possibilities 
are there bound up with the hardy and the tender Aquatics — 
plants which are not half as much recognised as their merits 
deserve. x\nd similarly with Orchids — at one time popularly 
supposed to be the exclusive property of the rich — which, thanks 
to the Gardening Press and the enterprise of importers, are 
brought to the doors of all who can afford to indulge their 
tastes for plants under glass. In fact, what at one time was 
voted a little understood and very expensive hobby, is now 
regarded to be alike as economical and as easy of achievement 
as almost any other section of indoor plants. 

Manures, again, are of the highest importance to the successful 
cultivator, yet in far too many instances it is to be feared they 
are employed on the rule of thumb principle, with disastrous 
results upon the crop they were intended to help. No apology, 
therefore, is needed for devoting a chapter to their consideration. 

Of the freemasonry which exists between professional gardeners 
and nurserymen and their less enlightened amateur brethren I 
must speak in the highest terms. There is no craft of my 
acquaintance which has fewer so-called trade secrets. This has 
abundantly been demonstrated to me during the progress of the 
work, and I should like to testify to the many kindnesses in the 
form of useful hints and practical advice which I have received 
from the profession and the trade. Particularly, however, am I 
indebted for such help to Mr. William Barr, Mr. George Schneider, 
Mr. S. T. Wright, and Mr. H. J. Chapman. To Messrs. Veitch 
and Sons and to Messrs. Barr and Sons I must also tender 
my grateful thanks for readily placing at my disposal some 
excellent illustrations, and for the generous assistance they gave 
our artists on very many occasions, by providing, often at 
considerable personal inconvenience to themselves, facilities for 
obtaining drawings from good subjects. 

Outside the ranks of the profession and the trade, I must 
acknowledge my indebtedness to my colleague, Mr. W. Baker- 
Bartlett, for kindly assistance during the passage of the work 
through the Press. And it is largely owing to the generous help 
received from many quarters that the labour in connection with 
the book has been so materially lightened. 

W. D. 



Contents 



CHAPTER 

I. — ^Introduction ..... 
II. — On Landscape Gardening 

III. — On Florists' Flowers 

IV. — On Roses ...... 

V. — -On Chrysanthemums 

VI. — On Bedding Plants .... 
VII. — On Annuals and Biennials 
VIII. — On Hardy Herbaceous Perennials 
IX. — On Rock Plants .... 
X. — On Hardy Bulbs and Tubers 
XI. — On Trees and Shrubs 
XIL — On Ferns ...... 

XIII. — On Orchids 

XIV. — On Pitcher and Insectivorous Plants 
XV. — On Stove Plants .... 

XVL — On Greenhouse Plants 
XVIL - On Room Plants .... 
XVIII. — On Cacti and other Succulents 
XIX. — On Palms, Cycads, and Bamboos . 
XX. — On Aquatic Plants .... 
XXI. — On Forcing ..... 



^.jlj CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER 

XXII. On Plant Propagation 



PAGE 

939 



XXIIL— On Fruit Culture < 973 

XXIV.— On Vegetable Culture . . • • io47 
XXV.— On Pests Generally . . • • .1078 

XXVI. — On Manures 1114 

XXVII.— Appendix "49 

Index . . 



1181 





The Victoria Regia House 



AT Kew. 



« 



The - - 
Book of Gardening. 




I —Introduction. 



Centuries have elapsed since the first book 
devoted to the culture of gardens appeared, and 
with the efflux of time the changes wrought in 
actual practice have been almost as great as those which have 
marked the contemporary political eras. Naturally, "the old 
order changeth," and on every hand there are indications of 
the great advances made in the study of Horticulture, even as 
compared with those of our fathers' days. For all that, we look 
back with pride, nay, with veneration, to those remote ancestors 
who were instrumental in laying the foundation for that super- 
structure of knowledge by which we have been enabled to build 
up, as it were, by degrees, the practical and popular Science 
to-day recognised as Horticulture. That it is a practical Science 
few will attempt to deny ; and that it is popular is abundantly 
evidenced by the number of recruits which are daily being 
enlisted in its ranks. 

Gardens are not the introduction of to-day, nor even of a few 
centuries ago, nor yet again of this country. Their origin is lost in 
the mists of ages. It was Lord Bacon who said that " God 
Almighty first planted a garden ; and, indeed, it is the purest of 
human pleasures." In the Bible we have ample testimony that 
gardens existed ; while those who are acquainted with the Greek 
and Latin Classics are aware of the scale of magnificence which 

B 



2 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Sallust, Lucullus, Seneca, and many another planned their gardens, 
and thus laboured for Horticulture in those far-off days. Again^ 
from time immemorial, gardens have been associated with progress, 
and they were wont to be regarded as civilising and refining 
influences. In fact, we are told upon excellent authority, that it is 
only among the most brutal and degraded races of savages that 
gardening is unknown. 

So far as England itself is concerned, Horticulture made but 
very slow progress until the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries — 
a time when Gerard, Gervase Markham, and John Parkinson 
began, by their writings, to make their influence felt. How far 
we had advanced prior to this, is shown by the restricted list of 
subjects then known to cultivation. It is, however, the last fifty 
years that mark an epoch in gardening. During that time 
Horticultural Science has advanced by leaps and bounds, but at 
no period has it been so practically understood, or had so many 
workers in its ample field, or even offered such scope for enter- 
prise, as now. Treated commercially, it is, of course, not a 
field in which those who, having been unsuccessful in other 
walks of life, can embark with safety, though popularly it is 
supposed to be so. Yet for the man of intelligence, enterprise, 
and dogged perseverance, the possibilities are great indeed. 

And what, too, of the educational value of Horticulture — of 
its refining influence ? Money, it is true, will purchase all the 
products of a garden, but it cannot purchase the pleasures 
connected with their raising. Each inteUigent worker in the 
field of Horticulture finds that gradually those difficulties which 
appeared insurmountable are overcome as if by magic. What 
looked like hidden mysteries stand out as plain truths. Thus 
is Nature revealing her choicest secrets. As, too, the store of 
knowledge increases, so is the interest quickened, until the 
guiding principles of the Science are in the proverbial nutshell. 

Much of the popularity Horticulture now enjoys is due to 
an intelligent Press, to the fostering influence of those societies 
which have sprung up all over the country, to the yeoman 
service rendered by the Parish Councils, and, lastly, to the 
many excellent handbooks which have been published. The 
Literature of the subject is vast, and increases with the 
growth of knowledge ; but the information is not always in the 
most accessible form. Books on special branches of Horti- 
culture are issued in great profusion, but the all-round gardener is 
not and has not been at all well catered for. Books devoted to 



INTRODUCTION. 



3 



general gardening are unaccountably few, and the majority not 
of recent date, and therefore not in accordance with modern 
thought and the progressive spirit of the age. The fact is that 
gardening is such a many-phased subject, that it is impossible 
for. a man, be he never so enthusiastic or never so energetic, to 
excel in every branch. The man who essays, for instance, to 
become a specialist finds, as a rule, that the subject he has on 
hand engrosses all his time and attention, though for all that 
he may be a fairly good all-round gardener, but not the best 
of teachers on subjects outside the one which he has made 
specially his own. And thus it is that many of the books on 
general gardening, launched with the best of intentions, fall 
very short of the ideal of perfection aimed at by their promoters. 
It has therefore occurred to the writer that a book which would 
fairly well cover the field of general gardening in a practical 
manner, and at a moderate price, would be useful. The main 
idea embodied is to have each subject dealt with as far as 
possible by a specialist. By this means one is able to command 
the most up-to-date ideas in respect of the various branches of 
gardening, as each contributor gives of his best in the space 
allotted. 

The field covered is, as already intimated, a very wide 
one, and herein lies the chief difiiculty. It is not of course 
pretended that in the comparatively small space allotted one 
can exhaust subjects like Propagation, Fruit Culture, Orchid- 
Growing, or even Manures. What is possible is to give the 
marrow of each subject in such a simple yet concentrated form 
that it will be readily assimilated by those who seek after 
knowledge. Every phase of Horticulture is treated, from Land- 
scape Gardening and Orchid Culture to Plant Propagation and 
Aquatic Plants. These latter have hitherto been dealt with in - 
the most cursory fashion, being in most works on general 
gardening dismissed in a very few lines. Here they will be 
treated with that prominence which, by reason of their 
beauty and decorative value, they deserve. They are rapidly 
coming to the fore, and promise to become still more widely 
known, and therefore more highly esteemed. 

As regards insect and other foes, these must necessarily be 
briefly dealt with. The aim will be rather to give guiding 
principles, enabling the gardener to combat, at any rate, the 
most formidable of the pests, both animal and vegetable, which 
he finds arrayed against him. 

B 2 



4 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



To the nomenclature employed, due regard will be paid, and 
an endeavour made to bring generic and specific limitation so 
far up-to-date. At the same time, in a work which claims to be 
popular, it has not been thought desirable to altogether ignore 
purely trade names. Where, therefore, a plant is familiarly known 
in commerce by a certain name, this will be given as a 
synonym. For instance, few amateurs would recognise by the 
name of Fatsia japonica the very familiar Aralia Sieboldii : 
or in Pieris fioribunda the almost equally common Andromeda 
Horibufida ; or yet again the favourite Laiania borbonica as 
Livistona chinensis^ grown in such quantities for the markets. 
For this reason the names by which plants are know^n in 
nurserymen's catalogues will be as far as possible respected. 




A Quiet Corner at Kew. 




In the formation of a garden or park there are certain 
rules which must guide the landscape-gardener. These vary 
according to the situation, size, and purpose of the garden whose 
creation they are intended to control. In any case, however, good 
taste must prevail. A garden cannot be laid out according to 
a set pattern : it must be as natural as possible, and the different 
parts must harmonise in every detail with the surrounding neigh- 
bourhood. Advantage may be taken of the existing landscape, 
and its aspect may be improved ; but the general character of a 
situation must not be changed. All creations must remain tiue 
to natural laws. In a flat country one must not endeavour, for 
instance, to give to a garden a mountainous aspect by creating 
a rushing stream, dashing in cascades over rocks : it would be 
offensive to both the sight and the imagination. The landscape- 
gardener must study the general aspect of the situation, the 
nature of the soil, the altitude, the climate, and the local 
vegetation. He must think what will be the aspect of his 
creation thirtv or fortv vears hence, Avhen the trees will be in 
the fulness of their development, in order to be able to judge 
of the correctness of his conceptions. Full attention must be 
devoted to the views which one can command over the neigh- 
bourhood, or in the garden or park itself Everything which he 



6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



considers pleasant and picturesque — as, for instance, a view of a 
church, a ruin, water, or any agreeable feature of a landscape — 




Fig. I. — Plan of a Country Residence. 



A, Mansion ; B, Stables, close to the servants' entrance, hidden from the Mansion by 
thick plantations; C, Gardener's Cottage, opposite to the Stables; D, Greenhouses, one 
lean-to and two span-roof houses ; E, Kitchen Garden, surrounded by walls, against 
which are trained fruit-trees; F, Lodge; G, Main Entrance; H, Bridges; L, Water 
Pump and Engine House; M, Reservoir; N, Summer-house. (The dotted lines are 
the lines of sight.) 

must be utilised to the best advantage. He can heighten the 
effect of such views by directing the line of sight between narrow 
openings amongst trees. The area of a garden may be made 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



7 



to appear larger than it really is, and boundaries may be so 
dissimulated that the garden may appear to embrace the whole 
of the surrounding landscape. The boundary walls and fences 
may be clothed with ivy ; hedges may be kept low ; or again, 
they may be set in a ditch so as to be completely hidden when 
viewed from a certain distance. 

The gardener should bear in mind that trees serve to frame 
the view, and give, by the variation of their forms and colours, 
light and shade to the picture. By these helps the lines of 
sight may be broken, thus giving life to a landscape, and pre- 
venting even the most beautiful views from becoming monotonous. 
In some cases a view hidden by trees may be brought intot, sight, 
while at the same time the most charming effects can be created, 
by making openings amidst the trees by cutting down branches, 
or, when necessary, by altogether removing the trees which inter- 
cept the view. If recourse be had to the latter expedient, the 
gardener must make sure before sacrificing a tree that the general 
aspect will benefit thereby, as any mistake in that direction cannot 
afterwards be easily rectified ; he should well consider, too, the 
number of years a tree takes to attain its full development. 

The choice of a site for the house in respect to the points 
of the compass is of the greatest importance. It must come 
before every other consideration; it must even take precedence 
of the view, as the comfort of the dwelling, which must never 
be undervalued, depends largely on its aspect. It is not easy 
to state the best position to meet every case ; but, all things 
considered, perhaps a south-easterly one presents the most 
advantages. A house facing the south on that side gets too 
much sun in the summer, while the side facing north gets none 
in the winter. With a south-easterly position, however, every side 
gets the benefit of the sun. Fig. i. gives a plan of a country 
residence, embodying the usual accessories. 

The gardener has also to consider the approaches in their 
relation to public roads leading to say the railway-station, the 
post-office, or the church. They must appear to lead as directly 
as possible to the intended points. 

One of the most charming features of a landscape is the 
water. A river imparts life and action in proportion to the 
rapidity of its stream ; while a lake suggests repose. 

Preliminary Operations. — When the formation of a garden 
has been decided upon, the first operation will be a careful 
study of the ground, with the plan of the site at hand. If 



8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



such a plan does not exist, one must be made before any other 
work can proceed. The plan is taken off after the manner 
adopted by surveyors. . It is not proposed here to go into a 
detailed description of this operation ; suffice it to say that, in 
the ordinary way, a line is first staked which will serve as a 
working-base. From this line the surface is measured out, trans- 
forming it, according to requirements, into squares, trapeziums, 
and triangles, and the results are taken note of, and drawn. The 
situation and area of any existing buildings, the exact position of 
the trees, &c., must all be noted. When this has been done, the 
levels of the ground have to be similarly dealt with, sections 
being taken of the principal parts of the area, both longi- 
tudinally and transversely; well-defined figures of the lines followed 
by the surface of the ground being thus obtained. 

The best position for the house, if it has to be erected, must 
be fixed in relation to the point of the compass, the outlook, 
the natural shelter, the surrounding views, and the height of the 
situation. The conveniences of communication with the neigh- 
bourhood, the form and the nature of the soil, and the sites 
of the various buildings which it is intended to erect, have all 
to be determined. The natural advantages of the situation, 
which will facilitate the creation of picturesque effects, will have 
to be well studied, as well as the best methods of remedying 
any defects. The result of the observation on all these points 
must be well noted. 

Tracing. — The necessary appliances required for tracing the 
design of the future garden or park are an optical square, a 
chain, a rule, a garden line, and some sticks and pegs. With 
the pegs will be marked the positions of the buildings, trees, 
&c., the outlines of the alleys, water, and beds, and the heights 
of the levels of the earthwork to be thrown up. Two different 
kinds of pegs will be required: (i) Long poles, to indicate the 
positions of the buildings to be erected; (2) Pegs 2ft. long, ijin. 
to 2in. square, thick, and pointed at one end, for marking the out- 
lines. The sticks should be as straight as possible, 3ft. to 4ft. long, 
with a slight slit in the centre of the top. In this should be 
inserted pieces of white paper; these are used for tracing the lines 
of sight and are the bases to work upon in the general tracing. 

The outlines of the house have first to be traced as exactly as 
possible, the situation of the principal rooms being marked, as 
according to their disposition the lines of view will have to be 
arranged. The greatest number of lines of view will be con- 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



9 



centrated at the centre of the principal front. From these points 
the gardener must start to stake, taking, one after the other, the 
different objects which it is decided to include in the picture — 
such as a church steeple, a ruin, water, rockery, &:c. Some- 
times these views may be hidden by trees, through which 
openings will have to be made, or by other obstacles, which 
will likewise have to be overcome. Their positions will be 
found on the plan by taking the angle formed by two lines, of 
which one will mark the future opening, and this will then be 
noted on the ground by the aid of the compass. 

The different views and aspects, regarded from other parts of 
the garden or park, must afterwards be fixed with exactness. 
For this purpose the lines used and marked on the plan of 
situation will be reproduced on the ground, and with some 
perpendiculars and angles measured and traced from them the 




Fig. 2. — Diagra:^! of Reciprocal View. 



gardener will arrive at the required situation. The start and 
the direction of the view will then be found. In fixing these 
lines of sight the peculiarity of the angle of sight must be taken 
into consideration. The object to be set in view must be seen 
in all its width : it must not be concentrated into a narrow 
opening ; such an opening must be wider at its extremity than 
at its start, close to the point of observation. If the view is to 
be reciprocal — that is, if the two ends become each in turn top 
and base of the triangle — the opening must not be bounded by 
two parallel lines, but must be managed as shown in Fig. 2. 

The outline of a lake, river, &c., must be pleasing, and in 
harmony with the situation. Very often the agreeable forms given 
to creations on paper will have to be altered on the ground. It 
must be remarked here that a curve appears much more accen- 
tuated when traced on the ground. It will be well, after the 
principal points of the lake have been determined, to join them 



lO 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



by inserting intermediate pegs at short distances from each other, 
say, every 14ft., or every 6ft. when the curves are short. 

The tracing of the alleys is most important, as it is in fact the 
reproduction on the ground of the design of the garden. The 
tracing of an avenue or of a straight alley, or, indeed, of any 
other straight line which may occur in the design of a garden, 
is such an easy operation, that it hardly requires any description. 
The extremities are fixed, and intermediate pegs inserted upright 
in the line at equal distances. The curved lines are more 
difficult to trace. Geometrical curves can be calculated and 
traced with invariable precision, but generally speaking they only 
occur in geometrical or formal gardens, or in flower-beds. In the 
tracing of gardens or parks, one has generally to deal with 
fantastic curves with long, sweeping lines, and contra-curves with 
ever-changing centres. Their execution requires great practice, 




Fig. 3. — Tracing a Curve from a Fixed Point. 

as they are traced by sight, without the help of any instrument. 
Their outlines, so long as they are pleasing, do not require to 
be traced with mathematical precision. Though this could be 
obtained, it would entail considerable trouble and great loss of 
time without giving any appreciably better result. 

I will begin by demonstrating the principle employed in tracing 
a regular curve with only one centre, an operation which may be 
done in two different ways. In the first, shown at Fig. 3, the 
worker stands at and directs the operation without moving 
from that spot. The pegs are set at equal distances, and the 
apparent interval between them increases with the distance 
from the point a. The represented curve is divided into 
eight parts, and the apparent distance between each peg, as seen 
from (7, will be respectively cd for ce^ ef for eg^ gh for gi^ &c. ; 
that is, the intervals seen between those pegs are equal to the 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



lengths of the perpendiculars dc^ fe, hg^ &c., erected on the 
straight lines ac^ ae, and ag. From the point situated on an 
eminence, the worker could see all the different points of the 




Fig. 4. — Tracing a Curve by Cheminement. 



curve, whereas, if he were standing in a hollow of the ground, 
one part would be hidden. 

By the second method the curve is traced by what is known, 
in French, as cheminement, and differs from the first in that the 
operator, instead of directing the work from one point, goes 
forward as it proceeds. It is based on the principle that 
if the perimeter of a circle is divided into equal parts the 
abscissse are all equal to each other. In Fig. 4 the curve is 
equally divided in r, (?, g, and /; the abscissae of the chords 




Ar, ae, and eg will be equal to ha, as all the arcs of the circle 
are equal to each other. Starting at the point A, the operator 
has the pegs at a and c inserted, and notes the length of the 



T2 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



abscissa ba, keeping it in mind. Going forward to <?, he has 
the peg e inserted, reproducing in dc the length of the abscissa 
ba, and so on. Irregular curves, with several centres, are those 
which occur most frequently in tracing a garden ; they are also 
traced by cheminement^ as just explained. 




■ - Fig. 6. — Tracing a Contra-curve. 

Fig. 5 represents a parabolic curve equally divided. In 
working gradually forward from C to d' it will be seen that the 
abscissae e'e^ f'f, and g'g, gradually lengthen, and that the flatter 
the curves the shorter they become. The operator, therefore, 
as he proceeds, must remember these proportions. Contra- 
curves (Fig. 6) very often occur in the tracing of alleys, the 
object being to get round an apparent or a real obstacle in the 
formation of the ground, such as a rock, &c. In such a case 
the gardener has to trace first one curve and then the other, 
with the same proportions, taking care that no breach of the 
line occurs at f. 

In tracing an alley it is usual to first insert pegs at a con- 
siderable distance from each other ; say, every 6oft. Some workers 




Fig. — Defective Junction of Alleys. 

trace first one side of the alley and then the other, but it is 
preferable to trace the axis first, as it wdll afterwards be easier 
to effect a harmonious junction of the different alleys. The axis 
traced, it is usual to go over the work again, correcting the 
defects. Two men take a rod, equal in length to the width of 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



13 



the proposed alley, and mark its centre. They stop at each 
peg and set the rod at right angles to the axis, while a third 
man holds the mark just on the axis, and a peg is then 
inserted at each extremity of the rod, marking exact points in 
both sides of the alley. 

In Fig. 7 is shown a defective junction of alleys (a 
result easily obtained when one side of an alley has been 
first traced, and then the other), where the different axes do not 
meet well. Fig. 8 represents a correct junction (formed when 
the axes have been first traced), in which the alleys converge 
well at their point of junction, so that when the sides have been 
traced it is only necessary to round the angles. 




Fig. 8. — Correct Junction of Alleys. 

When the general tracing has been done, and the defects 
have all been corrected, some intermediate pegs on the sides are 
inserted 15ft. from each other, and driven well in. Those 
marking the axis are then taken out. Pegs marking the outlines 
of beds, in order not to be confused with those marking the 
alley, must be painted at the top or else inserted in an inclined 
direction. In gardens the outlines of beds bordering an alley 
must be strictly parallel to them ; but the sides facing the lawn 
may be irregular. 

Practical methods for tracing on the ground symmetrical 
designs, with the help of instruments, are numerous ; but the 
following simple rules will enable those who do not possess 
the latter, and are not accustomed to their use, to obtain 



41 



14 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



a similar result simply with the aid of a garden line and 
a few pegs. 

(i) To trace with the line a straight line perpendicular to 
another straight line (Fig. 9) : On the line A B two pegs are 
inserted at E, F, at equal distances from the centre (C) ; nooses, 

. D E 



Dr' 



A 



Jl. 



B 



A 



B 



Fig. 9. — Tracing a Perpen- 
dicular AND an Equi- 
lateral Triangle with 
A Garden Line. 



Fig. 10. — Tracing a Perpendi- 
cular at the Extremity 
OF A Straight Line with 
A Garden Line. 



formed at each extremity of the garden line, are passed over 
E and F, and in the middle of the line a knot is made. By 
holding the line at D and tightening it, DC, the perpendicular to 
AB, is found. A similar result may be obtained by tracing a circle 
from each extremity of the line AB, with radius EF. The two 
arcs of the circles will meet in D, from which the perpendicular 
to AB may be traced to C. This latter method can be used 
to advantage on a fiat surface, while the former is preferable on 
uneven ground. 

(2) To trace a perpendicular at the extremity of a straight line 
(Fig. 10) : In the line AB a peg (C) is inserted anywhere, and 
the nooses of the garden line are passed over the pegs B, C. 

c 





Fig. II. — Tracing a Triangle. 



Fig. 12. — Tracing a Rectangle. 



This is draw^n tight till the knot made in the middle gives the 
point D, where another peg is inserted. The noose over the 
peg B is then taken off, and by putting it in a line w^ith DC 
the extremity of the garden line will give the point E, the 
hne from which to B is perpendicular with AB. 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



15 



(3) To trace on the ground an angle or triangle (Fig. 11): 
A line (AB), in this case 20ft. long, is measured. Then a 
garden line, 20ft. long, is fastened at A, and another, 8ft. long, 
at B. Both free ends are joined together, and the point 
C is found, giving the apex of the triangle. When the tri- 
angle is to be equilateral, it can be traced by Example No. i, 
used to find the perpendicular, or by this method with lines 
of equal length. 

(4) To trace with the garden line a rectangle (Fig. 12) : At 
B in the line AB, 20ft. long, for instance, a perpendicular (BC), 
8ft. long, is traced. Another line, 20ft. 
long, is fastened at the peg at C, and 
a third one, of 8ft., at the peg at A, 
both ends being joined in D. 

(5) To trace with a garden line a 
regular polygon : Say Fig. 1 3, repre- 
senting a pentagon, ABECD, is to be 
reproduced. The line AB and the line 
AC are measured ; with these measures 
the triangle (ABC) may be traced by 
Example No. 2 (Fig. 11). Two lines, 

equal in length to AB, are fastened by one end in A and in C, 
and by joining the other ends together the point D is found, 
while, proceeding similarly on the other side, the point E is found. 

(6) To trace with a garden line a circle or an arc of a 
circle : A peg is placed in the centre, and the noose of a 
string, equal to the radius (the half of the diameter), is passed 
over it, the tracing being done by moving round with a stick 
fixed at the other end of the tightened string. 




Fig. 13. — Tracing a 
Regular Polygon. 



G 



/ \ // 

JiJ:^ 


\ 

— — te 








1 ^ 1 








Fig. 14. — Tracing an Ellipse. 
(First Method.) 



Fig. 15. — Tracing an Ellipse. 
(Second Method.) 



(7) To trace an ellipse, of which only the major axis is known 
(Fig. 14) : The line AB is divided into three equal parts at E 



i6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and F. With the length of one of those parts as radius, and 
the points E, F, as centres, two circles are traced, of which 
the circumferences cut each other in C and D. From C, two 
diameters of the circles are traced, of course passing through 
the centres, E, F, and meeting the circumferences in I, J, A 
similar operation is performed from D. From the point C as 
centre, and the diameter CJ as radius, the two circles are 
joined by an arc, which will meet them in I and J, and this 
can be repeated from D at GH. Another way : The major 
axis (AB) being given (Fig. 15), at rather less than a third of 
that line from the end, a peg is inserted as at C. That distance 
is measured from B, and a peg inserted at D. A string is 

fastened at C and D, and put loosely 
I / over B. Then a stick (E) is put in 

"""-^^ loop, and moved round the foci 

/L\ /' 1 \ C and D in one direction, the string 

A l ■ ^ • ''''' V being kept taut. This is by far the 

\ / \ i / \ / easiest method to practise on a large 
M\^^ -A/ scale. 

/' ^ \ (8) To trace with a garden line an 

^ ^ ellipse of which the major and minor 

''-^ted M^htd.f -es are known (Fig. i6) : The major 

axis AB is divided in E into two 
equal parts by the minor axis CD; taking the half of CD, 
and measuring it on AB, will give AF. EE is then divided 
into three equal parts, of which one is measured in G on FA. 
The length AG is then also measured on BE, giving the point 
H. With the garden line two equilateral triangles are traced 
according to Example 3, having as common base GH, and as 
apices I and J respectively, the sides being produced. With 
GA as radius, the arc KAL, and with HB, the arc ]\IBN, are 
traced. The ellipse is then completed by tracing two other arcs 
having as centre I and T, and touching the previously-traced arcs 
at the points L, K, M, and N. 

With these examples most of the plain figures of a geometri- 
cal garden can be traced, even if the gardener has no other 
instruments than line and pegs at hand for the purpose. 

The tracing of orchards and fruit and kitchen gardens is, as 
a rule, very easy. The right angle is the dominating feature, 
and great care must be taken in well fixing the axes and their 
perpendiculars. When the tracing of a regular garden has to 
be executed on very inclined ground, it must be done according 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 1 7 

to the horizontal plane. The principal point of the tracing, 
and especially the lines of operations, will have to be fixed 
by stretching garden lines well tightened in a horizontal direc- 
tion, while with the plumb the exact places for the pegs are 
indicated. The pegs or poles used must be of such a length 
that a part may be left in sight till all the work is done, even 
if the other part should be hidden by the filled ground. 

Level. — When the tracing has been executed, the points of 
level which will have to guide the formation of the earthwork, 
have to be fixed. In the scheme of transformation, the levels 
fixing the different gradients of altitude, and describing the 
original lines followed by the surface of the ground — obtained 
when taking-off" the plan of situation, and when making the study 
of the ground — have been altered or rectified. When dealing with 
the work of formation of the ground, some of the considerations 
and rules which govern such alterations will be discussed. 

The principal points of level are fixed with the theodolite or 
with the water-level, and the intermediate points with the 
borning-rods. The last-named consist of three pieces of wood, 
4ft. long and 2in. wide, with a strip of board placed exactly 
at right angles across their tops. They are used in the following 
manner : Given two points of level the operator, with the help 
of two men, sets his rod on one point while a man holds his 
upright on the other point. The second man holds his in the 
line at the intermediate point. The operator then looks over 
the top of the little board, and if he sees the top of the other 
two in even line, the level is obtained ; while if he sees the 
second higher or lower than the third, it has to be lowered or 
raised accordingly. 

Where the soil has to be removed, a hole is made, and a peg 
inserted at the bottom and sunk to the right level ; its top 
may be painted red. If, however, soil has to be brought to that 
place, that is if the level of that particular spot has to be 
raised, the peg will' have to be painted on three sides only, the 
fourth being utilised for marking the height of the future level 
above the original soil. 

Approaches. — The ways of communication determine more 
than anything else the style of a garden. The principal points 
for consideration, in laying-out approaches, are not numerous, 
but they are of the utmost importance. The communications 
between the entrance from the public road and the house, and 
between the latter and all other parts of the place, must be as 

c 



l8 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

convenient and as easy as possible. Their appearance must be 
harmonious and in accord with the style of the garden. They 
should always appear to lead direct to their destination, and 
any deviation should only arise from a decided obstacle. 
Approaches must be solidly established, and well kept. 

The different ways of communication in a park or a garden 
are as follow : The drive, which can be straight or curvilinear ; 
the walks, which may also be either straight or curvilinear, 
according to the style of the garden ; and the paths and back 
road for the service of the house, of the garden, and of the stables. 

The Drive leads from the public road to the residence. If 
the estate is a large one, and the house of pretentious appearance 
and situated in flat country, a straight drive is advisable ; but if 
the ground is undulating, a curvilinear drive is more appropriate. 
A straight drive, though imposing, is monotonous. A straight 
avenue must start from the centre of the house, and put the 
latter into relief. When the centre of a residence is not 
prominent or particularly decorative, two avenues may start 
from each of the extremities of the front, each one becoming 
a centre. The space between the two avenues must on no 
account be planted with trees, though it may be turfed, and be 
brightened with flower groups. The number of rows of trees on 
each side of an avenue may vary from one to four. If more 
rows than one are planted, they may be arranged in either 
squares or chequers. 

A drive with one or several curves is best adapted — in fact, the 
only suitable one — for undulating ground ; and it has to be 
closely studied after the site of the house has been chosen. The 
site of the entrance from the public road must be determined 
according to the exigencies of the situation and the proprietor's 
needs. If a curvilinear drive is chosen, it must, nevertheless, 
not deviate too much from the straight line. The entrance 
thereto must be as near to the house as the natural con- 
ditions will allow. The curves must be easy, forming broad, 
sweeping lines. Every change of curve must have its apparent 
reason, an obstacle, such as a tree, which it is desired to con- 
serve, a rock, or a wooded hill, which has to be aUowed for. 
To increase the variety of a long drive, such "obstacles" may 
be artificially created. The more undulating or hilly the 
ground, the more numerous must be the turnings, and each 
sweep of a curve must be hidden from the succeeding bend. 
The entrance from the public road must, if possible, be at 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



19 



right angles with the latter ; and the commencement of the 
drive from the public road, and also the house end, must be 
nearly level. The entrance ought not to be situated on a higher 
level than the house. The slope of the drive must, if possible, 
be regular, even, and continuous all the way along, except at 
the ends. It must not go up and down hill if this can be 
avoided, unless water has to be crossed or a hill to be turned. 

The gradient of a good drive must not exceed one in 
fourteen, and its width must be at least 14ft., so as to permit 




FIG. 17. — Approach in French Gardens after Andre. 

of two carriages passing each other. There must not be an open 
view of the house at the entrance of the drive ; the house 
must only be seen from the points at which it will appear to 
its best advantage, through occasional openings between groups 
of trees. A good impression should be made on the visitor 
from the entrance, and as he proceeds towards the house this 
ought to be strengthened. 

Trees bordering such a drive must not be planted at 
regular distances, as that would prove monotonous. They must 
be skilfully arranged in groups at alternately varying distances. 

c 2 



20 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



A proper treatment of each end of the drive is of great 
importance. The custom in England differs from that of 
several continental countries — France in particular. In French 
gardens the drive very often divides, almost from the start, into 
branches, which go round a large lawn and meet again in 
front of the house, the general aspect remaining constantly 
similar. There is only one curve on each side, forming round 
the lawn a kind of regular track of a fairly decorative appear- 
ance when well treated, but still presenting, as M. Ed. Andre, 
in his famous work, " L'Art des Jardins," deplores, many serious 
defects, of which the principal is the uniformity of design. 
He says that the result of an invariable model applied to the 
most varied circumstances is to reduce the design to an 



artificial and inartistic proceeding, though he does, not intend 
to proscribe the bifurcated alley when applied to a suitable 
situation. Fig. 17 illustrates this type. The entrance (A) is 
opposite the house (B). The drive divides into the branches 
(C, C). The crossway (DD) is surrounded by groups of trees 
and shrubs. The elliptical lawn is undulating ; the centre has 
been lowered and the verges have been raised. Beds (E, E) 
are planted with flowers, and trees are scattered about in 
various places. Everywhere regularity, with an apparent variety 
of aspect, prevails. 

As a rule in French gardens the drive goes round the house ; 
while in England this is not the case. The drives are not 
divided, but usually end in front of the house, there forming a 
narrow ring. The interior of the garden or park is hidden either 




Fig. 18. — Approach after 
Macintosh. 



Fig. 19. — Approach after 
Hughes. 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



21 



by sinking the carriage-drive, by raising banks along the garden, 
or by planting; therefore, the space in front of the house must 
be large enough to permit of carriages making a circuit as easily 
as possible, say not less than 30ft. for a small house, or looft. 
for a large one. There must also be enough space on either side 
of the porch to allow carriages to draw close to the steps. 
Fig. 18, after Macintosh, represents a house (A) confined on 
the side of the entrance in a narrow space by a wall (B). 
The drive (C) skirts a circular turfed space (D). Both sides are 
planted with compact groups of shrubs. In Fig. 19 there 
are two big groups (E, F) at the entrance, and a third at G ; 
the house is hidden by those groups without being itself deprived 
of air or of view. The last two examples are only suitable for 



Fig. 20. — (A) Correct and (B) Bad Dispositions of an Approach. 

small gardens. Fig. 20 shows a good design of drive (A), a 
bad one being shown by the dotted lines (B). 

The Walks and the Paths, like the drive, are governed by 
a very few general rules, though they present a great variety of 
forms. They must lead in a natural and agreeable way to any 
place of interest — say, to one commanding a good view over the 
country, or having itself a picturesque aspect ; to a tree, to some 
water, or to a playground. Alternate curves are a necessity, as 
they enable one to view an object under different aspects, but 
their number must not be greater than is strictly necessary. 
On hilly ground the curves and turnings will have to be 
more numerous. The width of a walk is, as a rule, 8ft., and of 
a path 4ft. Their edges must be kept strictly parallel, and must 
never be crooked, as they are sometimes seen in gardens. 




22 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Two or more walks" and paths need not in their forms follow 
definite shapes, as the delineation of such would be hidden by 
the plantations. One alley must not run into another at right 
angles, but their axes, as I have said before, must join har- 
moniously. It must (Fig. 2i) join obliquely after such an angle 
that the direction of B may be taken naturally, but at the same 
time one should also be able to turn with ease towards C if one 
chooses to take that direction. When an alley (A) divides, each 
of the two branches (B and C) must take at once a decided 
opposite direction in order not to leave any doubt about its 
destination (Fig. 21). Such a disposition as that shown in 
Fig. 22 must be avoided. The separation is seen at once to 
be unnecessary, as the two branches show that they will meet 
again at a short distance. 




Fig. 21. — Good Bifurcation. Fig. 22. — Bad Bifurcation. 



In the formal garden the alleys not only characterise but create 
the kind of garden. Their turfed grass borders, flower-beds, 
terraces, &c., must be in strict harmony with the architectural 
lines of the house, and the former must have their axes in 
common with the latter. There must be a marked delineation 
of the hmits of the formal and the landscape garden, in the 
form of balusters, steps, or banks. 

If the formation of the drives, walks, and paths is very 
carefully attended to, it will afterwards be much easier to keep 
them in good order. The lines forming the widths of the drive 
must be well defined, and that width dug out. The depth 
of the depression and the thickness of the road material 
depend on the use to which the road is intended to be put. 
A main drive, on which there is likely to be a lot of carriage traffic, 
must be made as solid, and maintained in the same 
condition, as a public road ; it will require a layer of broken 
stones or rough gravel 6in. to loin. thick. Other kinds of 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



23 



porous material, in the form of broken bricks, clinkers, or burnt 
ballast, may be first employed, and these may be covered by a 
thin layer of the first-named material. A drive T4ft. in width 
should have a " crown " of 3in. The materials named must be 
well rolled down, and watered at the same time, in order to get 
them to bind well. The weight of the roller to be used depends 
on the thickness and quality of the road material employed, 
the slopes of the ground, and the number of horses to be 
used to draw it. It is not advisable to use a horse roller 
heavier than four tons, as it will require too many horses, 
and these would cause too much cutting up. Should a heavier 



A 




Bad. Good. 
Fig. 23. — Sections of Alleys. 



one be required, a steam roller is preferable. The lightest of 
these weigh ten tons, and good and solid work is done with 
them. When the roller has gone several times over the surface, 
a thin coat of fine, good binding gravel should be spread over, 
rolled, and watered, filling as well as possible all the cavities, 
and thus forming a solid and smooth surface. 

For a walk, 3in. and 4in. of rough gravel, with a crown of 
2jin., is sufficient. A path requires just enough fine gravel to 
keep it dry. Drives or walks traversing damp spots or 
following the falling ground have to be drained. Drains may 



24 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

be placed in the middle or on either side. Drives and walks 
must have gully-holes, with gratings, in sufhcient number, accord- 
ing to the gradient of the ground. The outlet pipes of the 
gully-holes must be 6in. above the bottom to allow spaces for 
the deposit of gravel displaced by rains. 

Turfed walks are more economical, but they must be kept 
clean by mowing them and trimming their edges frequently. 

The centre of an alley must never be of a higher level than 
that of the verges. From the lawn bordering an alley one 
should step down to the alley. The less apparent the walks 
and alleys are, the better is the general aspect of the garden. 
Both verges must be kept at the same level at the start, even 
if the ground is rising on one side and faUing on the other. 

There are numerous forms of verges, which vary according 
to circumstances. In Fig. 23 a few sections of good 
and defective dispositions of verges are reproduced. In 
Section A they are flat, as is very often seen ; while A' represents 
a better disposition, the walk being sunk a little, and the edges 
of the verges rounded. Sometimes the edges are seen (as in 
Section B) to be cut straight out as in ab^ before joining the 
level of the lawn in bb. The lines a\ a, of B' are more deeply 
sunk, and of a better aspect. They can also be disposed as in 
r, c, putting the alley more in view. In Section C the ground 
is falling according to the line ab, and the broken line 
de must not be imitated, while the section on ab' in 
Section C could be replaced with advantage by d'e. When 
the ground is boggy, the alley must not rise abruptly over the 
level of the ground (as in cd in D) ; it must be kept above the 
average surface («' // in D') which is flooded, and be supported 
by the verges, c, d\ which gradually join the level of the 
general surface. 

When the fall of the ground is too rapid, it can be interrupted 
now and again by steps, either of wood or stone, between 
w^iich the slope will be gentler. Stone steps must have a rustic 
appearance, so as to appear as if naturally found on the spot. 
They must not be higher than 4in. or 5in. each, and must also 
be wide enough to allow of taking several steps on each 
before getting on the next. Wooden steps are made with long 
branches either left whole or split in the middle ; they are then 
fastened by stout pegs, inserted on the outside, or nailed against 
the latter when the pegs are inside. Their disposition must be 
the same as that of stone steps. 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



25 



Planting. — Plants are the fundamental ornament of nature, 
and therefore of the garden ; and it is on their association that 
the charm of the landscape mostly depends. Planting is, 
therefore, of paramount importance in landscape-gardening. In 
the creation of a garden the formation of the ground may not 
be well harmonised — the waters may look artificial, the rocks may 
not be well disposed ; but all these defects can be amended 
by a cleverly-arranged plantation. Failure in making a good 
choice of plants, or in grouping them well, is an irreparable 
mistake. Each tree has its particular aspect and charm 
when w^ell developed, though its Eesthetic qualities may be 
differently appreciated. On the Continent one is accustomed to 
see trees with large crowns supported by naked trunks forming 
the woods, and they are appreciated there as much as those 
splendid isolated specimens which have been able to grow 
freely, and whose branches touch the ground. In England a 
tree is really only appreciated when its trunk is densely covered 
with branches. In the United States, inspired by the same taste 
a tree is not allowed to have its crown supported by a nude 
trunk, and gardeners there go so far as to top the heads of big 
trees. Beauty can express itself in many ways without one being 
obhged to have recourse to such radical methods. It can 
never manifest itself better than when an object is allowed to 
develop itself freely under its natural conditions. For this reason, 
all operations tending to modify the natural form and beauty of 
a tree ought to be condemned. To cut isolated trees mto any 
shape whatever is bad taste. Such proceedings may be tolerated 
when dealing w^ith a mass ; for instance, in the form of a straight 
avenue, an arbour, or a hedge, the lines of which are in harmony 
with the style of the garden. AVithout any consideration of 
species and stature, the beauty of a tree lies in the elegance 
and lightness of its general aspect. A tree with compact and 
regular foliage, its apparent surface not being broken by the 
projection of a few branches, is not of agreeable appearance. 
The white Horse-chestnut is in this condition in its early stage, 
but it improves in appearance as it grows, and the branches of a 
fully-developed tree often droop to the ground. How inferior 
beyond any comparison is the glow of light falling on an 
unbroken mass of leaves compared with that falling on the noble 
outhnes of an Oak or a Beech ! What a variety of gradation of 
lights and shadows are produced by their prominent branches 
and deep recesses ! 



26 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Trees must not only be judged for their particular qualities 
as isolated specimens, but also for their effects when associated 
with other species ; their position in the landscape has to be 
studied. The variety in grouping is infinite, but it has been 
found that the best effects in nature are obtained when compact 
masses of trees cover the top of a hill, which they thus make 
to appear higher. The summits may be crowned by forests of 
Conifers. Below these should come trees in groups, then isolated 
specimens, and lastly, mere bushes, which, as it were, break away 
from the masses on the hill-side to unite themselves with the vales. 

Great variety of form and of colour, of light and of shadow, is 
brought into play. In the meadows groups of big trees should 
rise here and there. In order that big trees may produce a har- 
monious effect, they must be grouped with their natural associates 
in a landscape, and the introduction of exotic species, though 
they may be hardy and of good appearance, must be avoided. 
A large bush of dark green, growing at the foot of a slender 
tree with foliage of a light hue, produces a happy contrast. A 
group of two trees produces a good effect only when one differs 
from the other in a very marked manner. Groups of three 
trees are often met with in nature, but they are never of 
the same kind, or at least of the same strength. It is by their 
difference of size, and by the variety of their foliage, that they 
attract notice. An equilateral triangle presents a too regular 
aspect. A scalene triangle will be a better disposition for a 
group, and its appearance will be enhanced (if the triangle is 
large enough) by planting a fourth specimen in the middle, 
especially if the different species contrast well. Groups of five 
are well disposed when they are planted at the four angles of a 
trapezium, and at its centre. They can also be disposed in the 
shape of an irregular pentagon, but this arrangement has the dis- 
advantage of presenting too circular an appearance. Groups of 
over nine or ten trees wall only have a pleasant appearance if 
planted in several irregular sections, composed of different kinds 
of trees. Not only must trees be planted at suitable distances, 
but in order to present a good appearance the minghng 
of their branches with each other must be harmonious: their pro- 
file and colours will only be appreciated if those points have been 
happily met. It sometimes happens that these differences are 
secured in trees of one variety, but of different sizes. It may 
also be the result of mixing together a group of species, well 
defined by their forms and the colour of their foliage. 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



27 



Trees of a pyramidal shape look well by the contrast they 
present when grouped with trees with round crowns, such as when 
towering above a group of Elms. In forming groups, it can be 
accepted as a rule that whatever the number and the form of 
the trees, they must, as a whole, in order to produce a satis- 
factory effect, present that balance in all their parts which should 
also characterise the isolated specimen. A group, it will be 
understood, forms a whole, and must be treated as a single 
object. When Nature is left to provide for herself, the balance 
of the different parts will seldom be missed. In order to 
produce a better effect, planted groups of trees must remain in 
harmony with existing woods, of which they must appear to be 
only detached parts, and their number must be regulated as 
may be required. 

In shrubs and bushes we have an unlimited variety. In our 
latitude groups composed of plants of one species are not 
met with. If any species is the prevailing feature of a position, 
it is, nevertheless, always found associated with some other 
kinds of plants, giving variety to the picture. The natural 
conclusion is that in planting large groups they must never be 
formed of only one species. An exception may be made in 
planting small gardens where natural disposition is out of 
consideration. The number of shrubs that are found growing 
on the banks of rivers is rather small, but, nevertheless, 
charming effects are obtained by forming groups of some of 
the followmg Willows : Salix Caprea, S. purpurea^ S. rubra, and 
S. vitellina. Amongst rocks a great variety of vegetation is always 
met with, growing in most picturesque fashion. Dog Roses, 
Brambles, Barberries, Elders, and many more form very attractive 
contrasts. The plants, though many of them are not very 
decorative by themselves, present in such associations very 
picturesque effects. 

After having considered some of the most striking aspects 
of the plants in their natural state, we now come to their 
practical application for the decoration of parks and gardens. 
In the creation of the latter the landscape - gardener has to 
deal with old and new plantations. In the first instance, the 
existing plantations have to be preserved or modified in their 
outlines when necessary ; while, in the second, the surface of 
the ground may be devoid of vegetation, and the plantations may 
therefore have to be created. In most cases, both conditions have 
to be complied with at the same time. It has been stated before 



28 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



how openings can be made, letting light into the boundaries 
of the landscape. A park cannot be created under more 
advantageous conditions than when situated in a wood ; here 
the most fascinating results can be obtained at once. As 
already said, the indigenous species of trees suffice to create 
varied effects. The masses which will form the background of 
the picture, and are seen only from a distance, impart to 
the landscape its dominating character, and it is less the 
beauty of the individual subjects than that of the whole that 
must be taken into account. From a distance, trees of middling 
appearance produce good effects ; but close to the walks the 
particular ornamental qualities of each tree have to be taken 
into consideration. 




Fig. 24. — Positions of Trees in Isolated. Groups. 



In making openings, the outlines must present varied forms, 
but lines, or a succession of sweeps and serpentines that are 
sinuous to excess, must be avoided. Prominences marked by 
detached trees and more or less deep recesses, sometimes 
penetrating into the masses, then breaking sometimes only 
slightly, will create an infinite variety in lights and shadows. 
Walks through woods must be treated as openings, and their 
sides must present the same varied aspects. 

Deplorable effects are produced by crowded clumps of 
circular appearance, often of one species only, and yet such are 
often met with. It is advisable to leave sufficient soace between 
each specimen, especially when Conifers are concerned, that they 
may develop under normal conditions, and that their lower 
branches may be allowed to cover the ground. Isolated groups 



ox LAXDSCAPE GARDEXIXG. 29 

must not present any formal disposition. In fact, any tendency 
to a regular aspect must be avoided. Fig. 24 shows some 
groups of three or four. Of A, B, C, and D, the first (A) and 
the last (D) are bad, being too regular ; while B and C are 
tolerable, though the trees are of a too regular aspect, being of 
the same strength. In the forms E, F, G, and H there is a 
more accentuated variety of aspect. The highest trees are those 
marked a, while those of second hei2:ht are indicated bv <^ : the 
remainder are trees of varied and bushy appearance. The 
differences of height and the forms of foliage produce a striking 
diversity. 

When groups are composed of more than six trees, they must 
be considered as consisting of several groups, and not as com-' 
posing only one. Groups of two trees may produce good effects 
but, as has been said, one must be bushy, and the other must 
be slender and rise above the first. 

It is not advisable to group Conifers with other trees, except 
when planting large wooded masses, where a few specimens here 
and there, towering above the others, will break the sky-line. It 
is better to group them by themselves, and to leave their lower 
branches to develop themselves naturally, and cover the ground. 
Conifers are very decorative, especially on a falling lawn, close 
to rocks. If some shrubs are planted at the foot of a big 
tree, they must not form a circular group, but their outlines 
must be as varied as possible. They must be all of one kind, 
the tree providing sufficient contrast. In grouping trees, the 
pyramidal forms are kept in the middle. Boplars i^Populus 
nigra fastigiata) in small isolated quantities, on the banks of 
rivers and lakes, look very nice, but their effect is enhanced 
when supported by groups of Willows. 

The best time for planting is towards the end of the autumn, 
when the trees have lost all their leaves, and thence till the 
weather gets too frosty. In heavy, damp, and cold ground, 
planting must be done only in the spring (in ^larch and April). 
Conifers can be planted from August to October. Several kinds 
of evergreen shrubs and certain trees Avith fleshy roots, like the 
Tulip-tree, Magnolia, and others, are better planted when growth 
starts in the spring. The ground must previously have been dug 
to a depth of about 2\il. If the soil is poor and sandy, it is 
■advisable to add some clay ; or, if it is too heavy, some sand 
and lime. The subsoil, if impermeable, must be well drained. 
Large groups in the park are planted, as a rule, with small 



30 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

forest trees in irregular lines and rather close to each other, as 
they can, after a few years, be thinned out. The species are 
well mixed and, as said before, prominences and recesses are 
formed on the outlines. 

There must be a marked difference between the plantations of 
the park and those of the garden close to the house. In the 
former, as has been said, all the disposition of planting and the 
choice of the plants must be in harmony with the surrounding 
landscape. In the latter the planting may be more apparently 




Fig. 2v — DisposiTiox of Trees .v^'d Shrubs ix Groups. 



connected with the design of the garden. The plants should be 
finer, and may also be of exotic origin, which, by their growth 
and tint of foliage, are such as we are accustomed to find in a 
garden. In the park we have "plantations"': in the garden we 
have to a certain extent a ''collection of plants." The planting 
in a garden is not proceeded with in the same way ; trees are 
never on a line, and all regularity in the distances is avoided. 
The big trees of first height (Xo. i) in Fig. 25 are 12ft. to i8ft. 
from each other, and those of second height fill the intervals, 
and are more on the sides of the group. The shrubs (No. 3) 



ox LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



on the edges are 4ft. to 5ft. from each other, and those in the 
centre (Xo. 4) fill all the empty space,, in such a manner, however, 
as to leave about 5ft. free round the trunk of each tree. A 
verge of from 2ft. to 3ft.j according to the size of the garden, is 
left between the group and the alley. The first row of shrubs is 
planted loin. from the inner line of the verges. The different 
species of shrubs and trees of which the group is formed must 
be well mixed. After a few years of growth, the varied aspect 
obtained will be very good. The strong-growing species will 
blend themselves with the weaker ones, and will form a delightfully 
compact whole, while still retaining their individual beauty. 

It is wrong to distribute the different species with which a bed 
is planted in small groups of one species only, as is sometimes 
seen. The growth, form, and colour of such groups being 
naturally different, the result obtained is far from presenting a 
harmonious whole. The trees must not necessarily be in the 
centre of the groups, although the shrubs must be disposed in 
such a wav that all are seen to their best advanta2:e, the small ones 
being placed in front and the tallest in the centre. The trees 
planted close to the alley on the verge of the group are 
intended to give shade, as well as decorative effect. A shady 
walk is always appreciated. 

Small, isolated groups scattered on the lawns produce very nice 
contrasts, but are only recommended where great attention can 
be devoted to the keeping of the garden in order. The place 
of each tree and shrub will have to be marked beforehand, and 
they must be planted in well-dug and properly-prepared ground. 
A calm and. if uossible, cloudv dav should be selected, and the 
roots well spread in the soil at their proper depth. The branches 
should be left intact, but on growth commencing they may be 
slightly cut back. After planting, if the weather happen to be 
dry, the shrubs, &c., must be well soaked with water. This is 
particularly necessary for evergreens and Conifers. It is also 
advisable on the same account to cover the surface of the ground 
with rotten dung or dry leaves from the wood, in order to protect 
the roots from frost in the winter and from drought in the 
spring. 

The planting of isolated trees requires particular attention in 
order to ensure success. Circular holes are dug out — deep if 
they are intended for species having roots like the Pear-tree 
or the Sophora, and broader than deep for those with 
spreading roots. The average depth in rich soil is 4ift., and 



32 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the diameter 3ft. ; but in poor soil a hole 7ft. wide and 
4^ft. deep is required. It is a great advantage when the hole 
can be dug out several months in advance, and the soil left 
exposed during that time to the beneficial influence of the air. 
Before planting, all injured roots must be cut away with a 
sharp knife, and the branches must be thinned out and pruned 
in proportion, as the roots are taken off, imparting at the 
same time a good shape to the crown. The tree must, if small, 
be kept upright in the middle of the hole by a man holding 
it, or when large by means of three ropes tied in the crown, 
and held, stretched at equal distances, by three men. The roots 
should be covered with fine soil, this being well rammed in 
between them with a pointed stick in order not to leave any 
cavities. The hole must be filled to the height at which the 
tree used to be, allowing for the sinking of the soil. Some trees, 
Poplars and Willows for instance, ought to be planted deeper 
than they were before. Previous to planting, a strong stake must 
be driven into the middle of the hole to prevent the tree from 
being shaken by the wind ; if it were driven in after planting, 
some of the roots would be injured. Very large trees are kept 
in position by three well-stretched wires fastened to the crown, 
and secured to three strong pegs planted at equal distances. 
During the first year after planting, in order to protect the trunk 
from the scorching sun, it can be covered from the ground to 
the lower branches with a coating of long straw or with reeds. 
During the summer, if the weather is dry, all the new plantations 
must be well watered. 

American plants, such as Rhododendrons, Azaleas, Kalmias, 
and i\ndromedas, are, as a rule, grown close to the house. They 
delight in a peaty soil, though one may sometimes see Rhodo- 
dendrons doing well in loam. The bed intended for such 
plants is excavated a foot deep, and the bottom of the ground 
is covered by a layer 2in. or 3in. thick of coarse gravel or brick 
rubbish. This will serve to provide drainage, and will isolate 
the peat from the natural ground, preventing it from getting 
sour, and keeping the worms off. This layer is covered with 
clods of peat, coarsely broken, and all the roots are put at the 
bottom. The coarser the peat, the better do the plants prosper 
in it. The bed is rounded, and the total thickness of the peat 
is about T^ft., of which 9in. is above the soil. When small 
plants are inserted that depth is not necessary. Rhododendrons 
must be planted in March, the tallest being placed at the 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



33 



back, so that they may be seen better when in blossom. They 
can be either of one colour or mixed. A good disposition is 
to plant in the middle different red varieties, such as Chelsoni 
and John Broughton. The edges should consist of one sort 
only, such as the dotted pink variety, Prince Camille de Rohan, 
or some with white blossoms, such as R. caucasimm, or Boule 
de Neige. Kahiiia latifolia forms very nice edges round groups 
of varieties and hybrids of R. maximum and R. arboreiim. The 
intervening spaces may be planted with Liliujii auraium. 

For planting hedges, different ways have been recommended, 
of more or less practical value. The most advantageous method 
is to insert a row of young plants at 2oin. from the boundary 
line of the property — often marked by a ditch. They may 
also be planted at the bottom of the ditch, the double advan- 
tage of which is that they are not seen from a distance, and, 
at the same time, are protected. Good hedges are formed with 
Berberis vulgaris^ CratcEgus Oxyacantha, C. lucida, Ilex Aqui- 
foltujji, and Madura aurantiaca. Hedges of Crataegus and Ilex 
together are very effective and decorative at the same time. 
Full information as to planting and the selection of trees and 
shrubs for various purposes will be found in Chapter XL 

Groundwork. — This cannot be governed by hard-and-fast rules : 
the natural forms of an undulated surface are so numerous, that 
practically every case has to be treated differently. The natural 
ground inclinations cannot be altered, though their defects can 
be improved. While dealing with the details, the natural character 
of the situation must remain predominant. The centre of a lawn 
can be hollowed out and its verges raised, giving to the whole 
surface an agreeable undulating appearance, and at the same 
time increasing its surface. The places intended for groups 
of trees and shrubs and flower-beds should be raised above 
the ground-level, forming mounds w^hich harmonise with the 
general inclination of the lawn. Between these groups and beds 
long, sweeping, dale-like depressions should be formed, of which 
the principal must have their lines of sight directed to the 
house or other points of rest, and their middle — that is, their 
lowest part — must never on any account be planted. 

If in front of the house, or anywhere in proximity to it, 
there are hillocks interrupting the view, they must be removed. 
Fig. 26 is a section representing such a ground disposition. The 
house (A) is required to be seen in elevation from B, at the 
bottom of the park, where there is a ruin of picturesque 

D 



34 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



appearance : from B the view of the house is partly hidden by 
the crest C and the hillock D. To remedy this evil, all the soil 
above the dotted line in C and D should be taken off and 
brought to E, filling the deep hollow there represented. A long 
sweeping line should be formed. Such obstacles as C and D not 
only intercept the view, but also give to the surface a confined 
appearance, while by their removal the opposite effect is obtained. 
In large gardens and parks it is only the surface of the ground 
close to the house and the drives that are dealt with. The 
remainder is left untouched. 

Artificial undulations of the ground, if used with care and 
taste, are very decorative, and the happiest effects and contrasts, 
giving a great variety of aspect, are possible. On a perfectly 
flat ground, when a large surface has to be dealt with, it is not 
advisable to use them. In the case of a lake, which has been 





I 

A 



D 




Fig. 26. — Method of Arranging Direct View. 

dug, the excavated soil can be used to raise the verges of 
the lawn ; but, in such situations, decorative aspects depend 
more on the plantations. In Fig. 27, the plan of a villa garden 
is given, together with the longitudinal section (AB), and the 
transverse section (CD), illustrating the formation of the ground- 
surface. In the middle of the lawn is a cemented lake (F), and 
with the earth excavated, a mound has been formed at E, serving 
as background to the picture. The side facing the lake (F) is 
covered with rocks, planted with herbaceous plants and ferns, 
hiding the filling-pipe, and so disposed as to form a cascade. The 
remainder of the mound is planted with shrubs and trees, and 
on the top is a summer-house. The boundary walls are hidden 
by thick plantations of shrubs and trees (G,G), and H is a shady 
resting-place. The groups JJ, close to the house, are composed 
of Rhododendrons and Kalmias. The groups KK are planted 
with evergreen shrubs and other plants. LL are two Weeping 
Willows. MM are Conifers planted on small eminences with soft 
slopes. N is a Bamboo. O is a red Horse-Chestnut, and at PP 
are specimens of Chamserops in their summer garb. The beds 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



35 



Q,Q, are occupied during the summer with bedding plants. R is 
a bush of Gynerium. The beds Q,Q, are about 2ft. above the 
level of the alleyj and the directions of the undulations, starting 
from them in varied forms to the lake, are marked in the 
sections AB, CD. 




Fig. 27. — Plan of a Villa Garden. 

A B, Longitudinal Section; C D, Transverse Section. 



Strong slopes, when the soil is of a loose nature, or when 
they exceed 45deg., must be supported by blocks of stone, 
inserted in the ground at different places, and of which the 
tops only are seen. Steps can also be formed in the subsoil 
and the top soil ; they should be well rammed down, in order 
to prevent any " sliding." As a rule, sufficient earth to form 
the groundwork of a garden can be found on the spot. It 

D 2 



36 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



is really the quantity of soil available in a place which should 
guide the operations. The rough-cast of the work is formed 
with the subsoil. The thickness of the top soil required 
depends on the quantity at command; but for a lawn, or for 
turfed borders and verges, a coat of loin. to ift. is generally 
allowed. The portions which are to be planted will require a 
thickness of soil of at least 2ft. 

When the necessary thickness of top soil has been roughly 
spread over the surface, it must be levelled by taking with the 
shovel the soil forming the uneven surface, and filling up with 
it the holes, thus giving to the surface a finished appearance. 
Levelling is a delicate operation, which requires taste, clear sight, 
and practice. For this work one cannot absolutely rely on the 
points of level fixed on the plan. One has to be guided by 
the effects produced. When the levelling has been done, the 
whole should be slightly forked and raked over. The limits of 
the flower-beds and the groups of shrubs should be marked, 
the verges formed, the edges trimmed, and lastly the pegs should 
be taken out. There remains to be done only the sowing of the 
grass. 

Water. — The charm water gives to a landscape has been 
pointed out in the introductory remarks. Whenever possible, it 
should be utilised in the creation of gardens. If existing, it 
must be preserved and its effects improved. In creating water 
effects the gardener must restrict himself to natural fitness. A 
stream rushing over a stony bed, leaping now and again over a 
rocky barrier, and forming cascades full of boisterous life, 
characterises mountainous or hilly surroundings ; while a placid 
lake or a quiet, sleepy river running in sweeps across grassy 
meadows belongs to the low-lying land : yet the latter in its 
proper position equals in effect the wild mountain torrent. It 
would be wrong, as already stated, to imitate artificially such 
scenes amidst inappropriate surroundings. Small lakes, it is true, 
may be met with on high grounds, but it is rather the exception 
than the rule. Various effects are to be obtained by creating a 
lake with its outlines forming bays, promontories, and creeks ; 
but these must depend more or less upon the undulations of the 
shores and the surrounding grounds, and on the different 
obstacles the water has met with, or is supposed to have met 
with, in breaking its way through. When creating a large lake, 
it must, as before said, look natural, and the work of man must 
not be apparent. In a small place it is not easy to deal with 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



37 



the outlines of the water in the same way, for a small garden 
necessarily looks artificial. 

It may be necessary to hide from the view of the spectator, 
by plantations at certain points, portions of the lake, in order to 
vary the impressions created as he goes round. If the shores 
are flat and uninteresting, variations can be made by raising the 
opposite banks at different spots, and planting them with trees 
which will be reflected in the water. Trees must not fringe the 
shore, for they would impart to the water a gloomy appearance ; 
but single trees, especially those of pendulous habit, may be 
planted to hang over the water. Light must be allowed to 
reflect freely, giving freshness and colour to the scene. The 
views from the house or other points of the garden should be 
directed towards the lake where the largest water prospect is 
obtainable. For the same reason views on a river must be 
guided, if possible, up or down stream, and not across it. Islands 
give variety to the outlines of a lake or river. They should 
not be placed in the centre, but on the side, and there should 
not be less than i6ft. of water between them and the mainland. 
If a bridge is constructed, its narrowest point should be at 
right angles with the shore. The banks, where there will not 
be any planting, should be turfed below the water-lines. The 
slopes of the sides immediately below the water-level should be 
steep, so that when the water falls there will not be any muddy 
shore laid bare. The depth of the water should not be less 
than-4ft., in order to prevent a too rapid evaporation from taking 
place. 

The construction of a lake must be done with great care, though 
it does not actually differ much from the work in connection 
with the formation of the ground already dealt with. If the earth- 
work consist only of an ordinary excavation, the earth obtained, 
when not needed to raise the level of the soil intended for 
groups of trees or to fill depressions of the ground, may be 
employed close by, in order to avoid unnecessary cartage and 
work, to vary the aspect of the shores, or to form plantations 
near the lake or the river. It may, however, happen that the 
excavation of a lake, or the modification of the bed and the 
course of a river, demand a special treatment. The soil may 
be boggy, rendering the task difficult. The work ought to be 
done in the winter, when the ground is hard, and in portions. 
Dykes of clay should be erected between the excavated part 
and the water, and the pump kept working without interruption. 



38 



THE BOOK of" GARDENING. 



The running water must be led away into ditches, and great 
care must be taken to prevent the flooding of the work by 
erecting a strong dam at the deviation of the stream. When 
the soil has been excavated to the intended depth the 
bottom of the lake should be smoothed, giving the necessary 
fall to the ground. It must then be made watertight by 
using either cement or puddle. In the majority of cases, 
when a solid foundation is available, concrete is used. The 
bed, when levelled and well rammed, is covered with a layer 
of not less than 6in. of concrete at the bottom and Sin. on 
the sides. 

The concrete used should be composed of a mixture of three 
parts of broken stones or coarse gravel and two parts of 
hydraulic mortar and sand. This mortar itself is a mix- 
ture of two parts of sand and one of hydraulic lime. 
The concrete should then be well and evenly rammed, the 
surface made smooth with the back of a shovel, and left to 
dry for a few days. It should then be covered with a layer or 
Portland cement lin. thick. 

When puddle is used, the ground should be excavated to the 
required depth, allowing ift. thick at the bottom and i8in. on the 
sides. Puddle is prepared by cutting clay, pouring water on it, 
and treading it until it is plastic enough for use. When it has 
been applied on the surface, it must be well trodden and rammed. 
The shores can be solidified, if the ground should happen to 
require it, by driving in a few pegs at the edges with branches 
and interlacing them. If there is any fear of the shores getting 
washed away, the side can be covered under the water-line 
with coarse stones. 

A lake may also be formed by utilising a stream and erecting 
across its lower end a strong dam of one and a half to 
three of base to one of height. This dam should be built 
up in layers of clay, well rammed, and supported^ by earth. The 
surface could be planted with grass and shrubs, but not with 
trees, as the roots of the latter, when shaken by the winds, would 
loosen the soil, and allow the water to run through. The top 
of the dam must be at least 5yds. or 6yds. wide, according to the 
nature of the soil employed and the volume of water to be kept 
back, and 5ft. above the water-line. Rocks can be scattered 
about the shores, especially close to the inlet and the over- 
flow, which can be hidden by the aid of plants. The sides 
below the inlet must be paved to a width of about 6ft. The 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



39 



inlet, the overflow, and the emptying pipes must be built in 
the solid ground. 

Draining. — Soil that is always saturated and boggy is necessarily 
cold and poor, as the circulation of warm air, which promotes 
the evaporation of the moisture, is prevented. The soil gets 
into a state of decomposition, rendering the existence of any 
sound vegetation impossible. This condition is due to the subsoil 
being impermeable ; the cold water cannot, therefore, find its way 
through, and it must be led away by artificial drainage. This 
operation consists in digging trenches, at the bottom of which 
pipes are laid to collect the water and lead it out of the 
ground. 

The depth at which drain-pipes should be laid, and the dis- 
tance at which they must recur, depend upon the nature of the 
soil. In heavy ground they should be placed at from 2ft. to 
3ft. deep, while in light soil 4ft. below the surface, and at 
intervals of from 20ft. to 40ft., would suffice. The collecting-drains 
must run parallel with the line of ground having the greatest 
fall, and the main drain should lead to the lower ground and 
fall into a lake or a river, being discharged above the water-level. 
The drains of the lawns should be made to join those running 
parallel with the drives and alleys. Collecting-drains should 
have a fall of lin. to the yard, and should join the main 
channel at an acute angle. The pipes must be covered with 
porous material, such as ordinary soil, broken bricks, crocks, 
stones, or clinkers, &c., within 6in. of the surface of the ground. 

Lawns. — Verdant grass is one of the most beautiful features 
of a landscape, and nothing tends more to enhance the charm 
of a garden than a well-kept lawn. In large gardens there 
are two different kinds of lawns. One is close to the house, 
and belongs to what may be termed the pleasure-grounds. 
This is formed of short, velvety grass, to which all the 
necessary attention can easily be given. The other belongs to 
the park, and is formed in pasture expected to produce a 
regular crop of hay. Lawns can be made by either sowing 
seed or laying turf. It is proposed to describe both methods 
here, giving preference to the first. Experience has proved that 
better results are to be obtained as regards appearance by sowing, 
though these advantages may not be manifest at first ; they 
are, nevertheless, very striking. During hot weather, in the case 
of a laid lawn, the sods, though they have been placed as closely 
as possible, very often separate, and show ugly crevices. The 



40 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



advantage of time gained by laying a lawn as compared with one 
made by sowing is hardly worth consideration. 

The preparatory work, which is the same for either sowing or 
laying the turf, has already been described in the pages dealing 
with the formation of the ground. We have also seen that if 
ground is inclined to be damp it must be drained. Success 
depends largely on these points. If the soil is exhausted it will 
be necessary to dress it with good rotten stable- or artificial 
manure. Of the latter the following mixture may be recom- 
mended : 2cwt. of superphosphate of lime, icwt. of bone-dust, 
and icwt. of Peruvian guano: these quantities are sufficient 
for an acre. It must be scattered and raked in a fortnight 
before sowing the grass seed. This lapse of time is necessary 
to allow of the artificial manure fermenting, and to prevent it 
from being injurious to seed-germination. The ground of the 
meadows must be ploughed, broken with the harrow, and 
rolled over. In the case of heavy ground it is preferable 
to do this work in the autumn in order that the frost may 
get into the soil and pulverise it. In the spring it should be' 
harrowed and rolled. 

Grass seed should be purchased from a reliable source, 
and a mixture suitable to the conditions of the soil selected. 
The quantity of seed required depends on the circumstances : 
but it should not be less than three bushels to the acre for 
a good garden lawn. The varieties of grass used in the com- 
position of this latter do not fill out like the pasture varieties, 
and have therefore to be sown more thickly. Thick sowing 
is the only way to obtain a growth of fine herbage and a 
rapid clothing of the ground. Sowing must be done on a calm 
day, from the middle of ^Nlarch to the beginning of May, or 
from the middle of August to the [5th of September. In heavy 
and cold ground, it ought only to take place in the spring. 
The seed must be evenly distributed, and this is best 
effected by sowing twice, the second sowing crossing the first 
at right angles. Where the ground forms a steep slope it is 
better to sow when the earth is wet. After the seed has been 
sown, it must be lightly covered with the rake, or in meadows 
with the harrow. Before the ground is rolled over the clover 
must be sown. It is advisable to proceed in this way, 
sowing the clover separately, because, being heavier than 
the other grass-seeds, it gets to the bottom of the sack when 
mixed with them, and it is not then possible to sow it regularly. 



ON LANDSCAPE GARDENING. 



41 



Verges. — The lines marking the limit of the verges and of 
the alleys (called, in French, the Jilet), are made by tracing 
a little furrow with the back of a rake. When sowing, a little 
more seed gets into this, and the grass grows thicker, showing 
well the Jiiet, even when the alley is also sown with grass. The 
verges cannot be rolled, and recourse must therefore be had to 
the turf-beater. The 2in. of soil allowed beyond the filet must 
be cut out when the grass has grown. 

The growth of the grass will be hastened by early and 
frequent mowing. Until the young grass is well rooted, this 
work must be done with a sharp scythe. The use of the mowing 
machine, while the grass is tender, would be injurious. After 
mowing, a light roller should be used, and subsequently, 
when the grass gets harder, a heavier one. To keep a lawn 
in good order, it must be mown and rolled more or less 
frequently, according as the growth is rapid or otherwise. When 
dry weather prevails, lawns ought to be watered, if that 
can possibly be done. If they cannot be watered, they must 
not be rolled, as it would not do any good. Rolling, therefore, 
will have to be done after rain and especially in the spring 
and in the autumn. A lawn must also be kept as free as 
possible from weeds like dandelions, daisies, thistles, plantains, 
&c., which should be removed bodily. 

Improving Old Lawns. — An old lawn may be improved 
by well raking over the bare places or even the whole surface, 
then spreading a top-dressing of well-rotted stable manure over 
it, sowing seed, raking in, and rolling. The best time to do 
this work is in February or March. It is very beneficial to any 
lawn to give a top-dressing now and again, as such by increasing 
the fertility of the soil stimulates the growth of the grass. 

Laying Turf. — The surface from which it is intended to take 
turf must previously be mown and rolled for some time 
before it is wanted, and also just before lifting. It must also 
be kept clear of weeds. The sods, as a rule, are cut ift. 
wide and 3ft. long. The surface to be turfed must be quite 
even and the turfs laid as closely together as possible. Some 
fine, light soil should then be sifted over and brushed in to fill 
up all the cracks, and the turf-beater should be thoroughly 
applied. 

Tennis-Grounds. — The surface of a tennis-ground must be 
made as level as a billiard-table, and measure looft. long by 
50ft. wide. The ground must, moreover, be well drained. The 



42 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



whole surface should be excavated and the space filled with 
clinkers to a depth of ift., these being well rolled to prevent 
sinking. The clinkers should then be covered with a layer ot 
Sin. of soil, which must also be well rolled, and then sown with 
a special mixture of seed. 

Shaded Places, — In woods, grass does not succeed well ; 
but, where there is still enough air and light, some may be 
obtained by sowing a mixture of Poa nemcralis, Aiiihoxanthum 
odoratum^ and Festuca heterophylla. Borders under trees which 
cannot be formed with turf are very effective when planted 
with Irish Ivy {^Hedera Helix hibernicd)^ transferred from pots, 
pegged down with wires and covered with sifted soil. They 
should be kept clean and watered when the ground gets dry, and 
be trimmed every year. In the case of deciduous trees, there 
are many bulbs and tubers — Cyclamens, Winter Aconites, (S:c. — 
which may be utilised. See Chapter X. 




The Lake, Kew Gardens. 




By 

James Douglas 



Florists' 
Flowers. 



By common consent the favourite plants of our gardens have 
been designated " Florists' Flowers," and for very many years 
they have been known as such. The most beautiful, and of 
highest value amongst them, are the Rose, Chrysanthemum, 
Carnation, Pink, Auricula, Pansy, Viola, Tulip, Dahlia, Hollyhock, 
Ranunculus, Polyanthus, and Gladiolus. Some, like the Viola, 
are of modern conception ; others, like the Carnation, Auricula, 
Tulip, &c., have graced our gardens for over three-hundred years. 
By careful selection and cross-fertilisation all of them have 
attained a high standard of excellence. The work of improve- 
ment has been going on for many generations of amateurs. For 
instance, we have a very definite account of the Carnation in 
"The Historic of Plants," published by John Gerard, in 1598. 
This worthy florist cultivated the Clove and the Great Double 
Carnation, and he informs us that the first yellow Carnation was 
procured from Poland, and grown in his own garden. Doubtless, 
he would speedily raise new varieties from seed, and the yellow 
Carnation has been going through a course of improvement 
since that time. 

In these days the florist has a standard of excellence in his 
mind, and by cross-fertilising the best varieties, and by careful 
attention to minute details, he effects some improvement in the 
colour or in the form of the flowers of his favourites. Some 
excellent work has been done by men in comparatively humble 



44 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



walks of life, such as Mr. Benjamin Simonite, of Sheffield, a 
working cutler, who has done a good work amongst the Auriculas 
and Carnations, as his father also did amongst the Pinks. 

The first decided improvement in the Hollyhock was made 
by Mr. Charles Baron, a Saffron Walden shoemaker^ What 
splendid work was done, too, by the Lancashire weavers in the 
old days I They improved the Auricula, the Carnation, the Pink, 
the Tulip, the Polyanthus, and other beautiful garden flowers, and 
their work has come down to us in the Lancashire Hero Auricula 
of Robert Lancashire, and the Smiling Beauty of James Heap. 

When a very high standard of excellence has been reached, 
progress is necessarily slower, but it still goes on, and if but 
little progress seems to be made season by season, the work 
shows itself in the course of years. The cultivation of florists' 
flowers is not well understood, even amongst gardeners ; but it 
is a fact that every section of them may be successfully pro- 
duced with very little labour indeed. The amateur has a love 
for his favourite flowers, and the time spent in attending to 
them is a pleasure to him. He soon finds out their require- 
ments, and gives them the attention they need at the right 
time. He is always thinking about them, and daily, at a certain 
hour, they are looked over, water is given when needed, decayed 
leaves are removed, and if plants require repotting, they are 
done before it is too late. Insect pests are noticed at once 
by the attentive observer, and they must be dealt with before 
they do mischief. 

There are so many details required in the various classes of 
work, that some would-be florists may be inclined to remark, 
"That if the things require so much attention, it may be better 
not to grow them at all." In answer to that objection, I can 
only say it is the same with orchids and all other choice plants : 
the amateur or fancier must have a real love for his flowers, 
and when this is in evidence, attention bestowed upon them is 
a pleasure, and toil and trouble are not thought of. 

Another source of pleasurable excitement is found in the 
raising of seedling varieties. My friend Ben Simonite says a man 
is not worthy of the name of florist if he does nothing in 
the way of seedling-raising to improve the flowers he culti- 
vates. Cultural directions are of little use to those who do not 
take sufficient interest in their plants to follow them up. 

All florists' flowers are not included here. Several are of 
sufficient importance to have a chapter devoted to themselves — 



ON florists' flowers. 



45 



the Rose and Chrysanthemum, to go no further — while the 
remainder will be dealt with in their respective sections. 

The Auricula {Primula Auricula). 

Amongst the choicest of florists' flowers must undoubtedly be 
accounted the Auricula, which has been long under cultivation 
in English gardens — three-hundred years at least. During that 
period it has seen many changes. In those days of long ago it 
was designated in some districts " Bear's-ears," in others "Sow's- 
ears " ; while in Scotland, the cottagers know it as the " Dusty 
Miller," the leaves being in many instances so thickly coated 
with a mealy substance (farina) as to appear quite white. These 
Auriculas are quite hardy in Scottish gardens, and the refined 
Auricula of the florist will stand the winter out-of-doors. This 
I have proved ; but the edged ^flowers are worthless when treated 
in this way, owing to their delicate tints and the w^hite farina 
on leaf and flower being so easily injured by rain-drops. The 
Wild Auricula is freely distributed in the mountainous 
districts of Switzerland, Austria, Syria, and the Caucasus. 
Under natural conditions the plants are found, as regards the 
foliage, in two states — some heavily powdered with farina, and 
others quite destitute of it ; and so we find them in the garden 
varieties. 

Show Auriculas. — This section has long been under the 
careful hand of the florists, and the flowers have been brought 
through their fostering care to the highest standard of excellence. 
Fanciers divide the Show section into four classes — Green-Edged, 
Grey-Edged, White-Edged, and Selfs — and the usual method is to 
begin with the Green-Edged. In describing fully the properties 
of this section, I would remark that in all the other classes 
there exist varieties with green and powdered foliage, but the 
foliage of all the Green-Edged varieties is quite destitute of 
farina, or meal. The Auricula should possess a stout flower-stem — 
one that holds the truss erect above the foliage. The fancier is 
quite satisfied with seven to nine pips. A strong plant will 
produce as many as twenty pips, or more ; but where there are 
so many it is necessary to thin a number of them out, otherwise 
they will not fully develop, and the central flowers, or "pips," of 
the truss will usually be the most imperfect. 

Green-Edged. — In this class, the edge of the corolla should be 
quite green and free from farina, but in most of the so-called 
green edges there are usually a few dots of meal, though they 



46 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



must be so thinly placed, that the edge presents to the eye a green 
colour. Inside the green margin is the body-colour, and black 
is most esteemed, although, when closely scrutinised, there is a 
tinge of purple in it. There are other shades of colour, such 
as maroon, violet, and plum. The colour strikes or flashes into 
the green edge, and is never found in a compact ring. Some- 
times, the ground, or body-colour, strikes quite through to the 
edge, which is a great fault. The inner edge of the body-colour, 
where it touches on the white centre, should be circular, but it is 
•sometimes slightly angular, and what is worse, a scalloped edge 
is formed. The centre ought to be white, formed by a dense 
coating of farina, and the eye, or centre of the flower, should be 
bright yellow, and filled with the anthers. The stigma should be 
out of sight within the tube : if the stigmatic part of the flower 
protrudes from the eye, and the anthers are placed lower down, 
it is termed "pin-eyed," and no florist would own such a flower. 
Any deviation from the properties I have given above is a fault, 
•and few of the older Green-Edged varieties are faultless. One 
of the most esteemed of them, Freedom (Booth), has an angular 
paste, which is the one fault of this fine flower. Admiral 
Napier (Campbell) is a fairly good Green-Edge, but is also spoilt 
by an angular paste. Rev. F. D. Horner (Simonite) is perhaps 
the best Green-Edge we have at present, but the slightly 
. angular paste is its one serious fault. Another fault is a pale- 
coloured tube, and amongst the older Green-Edged varieties 
this is possessed by Apollo (Beeston). Prince of Greens (Trail) 
may be ranked as a modern variety, although it was raised some 
forty years ago by Mr. Trail, of Aberlady, N.B. It has the 
most correct green edge of any ; but the pale-coloured tube, 
which takes on an inky tinge as the flowers fade, quite spoils it. 
There is still room for improvement in this section. 

Grey-Edged varieties come next in order, and it may safely 
be asserted that this class contains the finest edged Auriculas. 
The edge is termed "grey," owing to its being moderately powdered 
with farina over the green, but in no other respect does it differ 
from the Green-Edged varieties. Perhaps the most perfect of 
all Show Auriculas is George Lightbody (Headly). In all points 
it is of surpassing excellence. The truss is admirable ; the pips, 
or corolla, are in all points excellent, and w^hen shown with 
seven pips, in the best condition, from a young plant, this 
variety usually wins premium at the leading exhibitions. Lanca- 
shire Hero, raised by an old Lancashire weaver (Mr. Robert 



ON florists' flowers. 



47 



Lancashire), is inferior to the preceding. It has not such a perfect 
grey edge ; in fact, the farina is so thinly scattered on the edge, 
that the variety may sometimes be exhibited as a Green-Edged. 

White-Edged. — This class is distinguished from the Grey by 
the greater density of the farina on the margin ; it is so 
thickly powdered as^ in some instances to be almost as white as 
the centre. In recent years a good many fine varieties have 
been added to this class. Perhaps the most typical, when 
seen at its best, is Acme (Read) ; Conservative (Douglas) is a 
flower well up in all the properties, and Mrs. Dodwell (Woodhead) 
is also a first-class White-Edge. A fault in the section, and one 
from which the Grey-Edged varieties are not exempt, is the 
body or ground-colour being less or more dusted with powder. 
A pretty old variety, Catherina (Summerscales), has this fault, as 
also has Lee's Earl Grosvenor. 

Selfs. — In this class there is a margin of yellow, bluish-violet, 
violet, purplish-maroon, and maroon. The additions to it in 
recent years have been numerous, and have quite superseded 
the older varieties. The best are : Heroine (Horner), purplish- 
maroon ; Black Bess (Woodhead), maroon; and Mrs. Potts 
(Barlow), a lovely violet, whose fault is a long, weak flower-stem. 

Alpine Auriculas. — The characteristics of this section are that 
the flowers and leaves are destitute of farina ; the centre instead 
of being white, is yellow- or cream-coloured ; and the edge of 
one colour is darker at the centre, and shades to a paler tint 
at the margin. The prettiest Alpine Auriculas are those with a 
deep yellow centre, and a maroon - shaded edge. They are, 
perhaps, not hardier than the Show x\uriculas, but the flowers 
are not much injured by rains. Auriculas of this section are 
grown, and sometimes exhibited, with unshaded edges ; but they 
have a heavy, dead appearance, and cannot successfully compete 
with those having a shaded edge. The prevaihng colours of 
the Alpine Auricula are maroon, reddish-maroon, coppery-yellow, 
mauve, and purplish. 

Propagation. — This is effected by seed and by offsets. The 
seed should be sown as soon as it is ripe— in July, a season of 
the year when it readily vegetates. It may be sown in small 
seed-pans or in flower-pots, and as soon as the first leaf is 
formed after the seed-leaves, the young plants should be pricked 
out — about a dozen of them in a small sixty-sized pot. At 
first the growth is rather slow, and the plants will take from 
twelve to eighteen months to attain their full size. They will 



48 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



They will 
sowing the 
obtained a 



require after a time to be repotted— three plants in a small 
sixty, and the next time one in a flower-pot the same size. 

flower in 4in. flower-pots the second season after 
seed. Of course, the Auricula fancier, after having 
stock of choice varieties, would save seed from cross- 
fertilising the best of them. This is easily done by cutting off 

the anthers with 
a pair of sharp- 
pointed scissors,, 
before the pollen 
is scattered. The 
plant should be 
held upside down 
when doing this, 
so that the pollen- 
cases may fall on. 
the ground instead 
of into the tube.. 
With a fine camel- 
hair brush the 
pollen should be 
conveyed to the 
stigma of the 
flowers intended 
to bear seed. It 
is needless to add 
that only the best 
varieties in each 
class should be 
used alike _as 
seed- and pollen- 
bearers. Above 
all, the classes 
should not be 
intermixed- The 
Green-Edged 

should be crossed with another variety having a green edge. 
The same remark applies to the Alpine iVuriculas. In crossing, 
the yellow-centred kinds should be kept together, as also should 
the white or cream. 

Propagation by offsets is the way to obtain a stock of named 
varieties. Such offsets are produced very freely by some 




Fig. 28. — Select Show Auriculas. 

1. Smithfield Green, Green 3. Marmion, Grev Edge. 

Edge. 4. George Lightbody, 

2. Miss Prim, White Edge. Grey Edge. 

5. Rev. F. D. Horner, Green Edge. 



ON florists' flowers. 



49 



varieties, and very slowly by others. I have grown an old plant 
for six years without obtaining an offset, while others will produce 
as many as from six to a dozen in one year ; but from three to 
six are as many as one might expect. I use what the trade term 
"thumb" pots for the offsets. In the case of very small offsets, 
three or four may be planted in one pot, though in some cases 
one or two will be better. They become established most 
readily in close hand-lights in a shady place. When the plants 
begin to grow, admit more air, and pot off when necessary. The 
old growers used to have specially-constructed frames for their 
plants, and mysteriously compounded soils in which to plant 
them. In a word, the whole art and culture of the Auricula was 
supposed to be known only to the initiated. The day has long 
gone by for the public to be gulled with floral jargon, and it is 
now well known that the Auricula is one of the easiest of all 
plants to grow when its simple requirements are understood. A 
good compost for Auriculas is made with four parts of decayed 
fibrous loam, one part of decayed cow-manure, and one part of 
leaf-mould. I never use artificial manure in Auricula potting 
material. The manure must be free from grubs and worms. 

Auriculas can be grown and flowered to perfection in ordinary 
garden-frames ; these should be placed on the north side of a wall 
or fence, as the Auricula is very impatient of bright sunshine, 
especially during the summer months ; but the plants like an abund- 
ance of air. The lights should therefore be removed whenever the 
weather is favourable, and by this method well-developed plants 
and compact trusses will be obtained. There is in the diversity 
of foliage, as well as in the quaint, and marvellous beauty of the 
flowers, a never-faihng source of delight to the fancier during the 
spring months when the trusses are in course of development. 

The Auricula is one of the oldest flowers that has been 
specially cultivated for exhibition purposes, and many of the 
fanciers of the present day, I fear, would scarcely care to cultivate 
the Auricula unless they could exhibit it. In order to ensure 
having plants in good condition and in full blossom on the right 
day," heated houses are built in which to flower them, and the 
heating apparatus is always used to keep out the frost. As soon 
as the first pips on a truss open, the plants must be shaded from 
bright sunshine. A dry atmosphere is injurious to them, but it 
must not be over-moist ; a medium pleasant atmosphere is best. 
Great care must be exercised in conveying the plants to exhi- 
bitions, as the least touch upon the thickly-placed farina on flower 

E 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and foliage is injurious. The fancier should also place some 
nice green moss on the surface of the soil in the pots. The 
truss should be supported by means of a neat stick, and when 
a careful arrangement is made, a very pretty effect is produced. 

Show Varieties. — A prize group is shown at Fig. 28, and 
the following is a list of the six best show varieties at present 
in cultivation in each class of this section : 

Green-Edged. — Rev. F. D. Horner (Simonite) ; Abbe Liszt 
(Douglas) ; Prince of Greens (Trail) ; Mrs. Henwood (Barlow) ; 
Freedom (Booth) ; and Shirley Hibberd (Simonite). 

Grey-Edged. — George Lightbody (Headly) ; Lancashire Hero 
(Lancashire) ; Marmion (Douglas) ; Richard Headly (Lightbody) ; 

Frank (Simonite) ; and 
Mabel (Douglas). 

W kite-Edged. — Acme 
(Read) ; Conservative 
(Douglas) ; John Si- 
monite (Walker) ; Mrs. 
Dod-well (Woodhead) ; 
Smiling Beauty (Heap); 
and Ne Plus Ultra 
(Smith). 

Selfs. — Black Bess 
(Woodhead) ; Heroine 
(Horner) ; Mrs. Potts 
(Barlow) ; Sapphire 
(Horner) ; Buttercup 
(Horner) ; and Ruby 
(Simonite). 

Alike in the Show 
and the Alpine sec- 
tions, some very fine 
varieties have been in- 
troduced within recent 
years ; but it takes a 
Fig. 29. — Alpine Auricula Apollo. long time before they 

can be sent out after 
being exhibited. It is best therefore to enumerate those only 
that can be obtained by purchase through the usual trade 
channels. Two excellent and very promising new varieties 
in the Alpine section are Apollo (Douglas) (Fig. 29) and Melaine 
(Douglas) (Fig. 30). 




ON florists' flowers. 



51 



Alpine Auriculas. — The following are the best twelve : Dean 
Hole (Douglas); Diadem (Gorton); Duke of York ; Edith (Turner); 
Firefly (Douglas) ; Minstrel (Douglas) ; Defiance (Turner) ; Mrs. 
Martin (Henwood) ; Mrs. Harry Turner (Turner) ; Miss Moon 




Fig. 30. — Alpine Auricula Melaine. 



(Douglas) ; Nellie Hibberd (Douglas) ; Toujours Gaie (Douglas) ; 
and Perfection (Douglas). 

Pests. — There is one disease in connection with Auriculas 
which ought to be mentioned — the "rot"; this attacks the main 
root at its base. The old varieties are most liable to be attacked, 
and it is necessary to examine the base of the main roots at the 
time of repotting. Sometimes they will be a mass of decay, 
although the plant itself may look right enough. All the decayed 
portions must be cut away with a sharp knife, and some dry 
quicklime pressed firmly into the cut portion. Water must be 
very carefully applied to the roots until the plants are well 
established again. 

E 2 



52 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



A species of woolly aphis {Tra??ia mirkidce) is a pest recently 
noted as attacking the roots of the Auricula. The insects cluster 
around the stem above and below ground, but do not 
seem to do so much mischief as one would think. I take a 
small brush, dip it in dry tobacco-powder, and brush the powder 
well in amongst them. When repotting the plants, remove any 
of the aphides found amongst the roots, for they will get down as 
far as the drainage. The ordinary greenfly is also troublesome, 
but this is destroyed by fumigating, or by dusting with tobacco- 
powder if the plants are not in a close greenhouse or frame. 

The Carnation and Picotee {Dianthus Caryophyllus). 

During the last quarter of a century a great advance has been 
made with the Carnation. At that time Carnation fanciers 
thought most of Flakes, Bizarres, and ^^'hite-Ground Picotees. 
The Malmaison Carnations were few, the old Pink and Blush 
being almost exclusively cultivated. Soon, however, a great 
improvement took place in the Yellow-Ground Picotee, a fine 
variety, Prince of Orange, being used as the seed-bearer ; but 
most of the above were grown in flower-pots, and cultivated 
under glass. By and by amateurs asked for a hardier type of 
Carnation for border culture, and when a want is felt the supply 
is not long in coming. There are now in cultivation a very 
large number of Border Carnations, and the names of the best 
varieties will be found under the " Selfs " and ''Fancies." New 
varieties of Malmaison Carnations have also been introduced, 
many of them of rich and perfectly distinct colours. The 
Yellow-Ground Picotees have been improved quite as much 
as the Selfs and Fancies during the last decade. The Flakes, 
Bizarres, and White-Ground Picotees seem to have attained to 
perfection, little or no improvement having been made during 
the last quarter of a century. 

The Carnation, which also includes the Picotee, is one of the 
good, old-fashioned flowers that never ceases to please. The 
old authors, like Gerard and Parkinson, wrote about them three- 
hundred years ago. The myriad-minded magician, Shakespeare, 
did not omit the Carnation from his plays. W^hat florist does 
not admire the amusing dialogue between Polixenes and Perdita 
in the "Winter's Tale." 

Perdita says : 

"Sir, the year growing ancient, — 
Not yet on summer's death, nor on the birth 




Fig. 31. — CARNATIO^^s. 

A, Flake Carnation b, Picotee. 



54 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Of trembling winter, — the fairest flowers o' the season 
Are our carnations, and streak'd gillyflowers, 
Which some call Nature's bastards." 
And so we love our Carnations for old-time associations as we 
do for their sweetness and surpassing beauty. There is no need 
to write a historical retrospect on these flowers, the fairest and 
sweetest in the garden ; but they are now divided into so many 
classes and sections that the tyro in their culture is puzzled to 
comprehend the arrangement of the fancier. 

Classification. — For garden and exhibition purposes. Carna- 
tions are divided into the following classes : 

Scarlet Bizarres have the petals striped and flaked with scarlet 
and maroon on a white ground. Crimson Bizarres have crimson 
and purple on a white ground. Pink and Purple Bizarres have 
those colours on a white ground. Purple Flakes have purple 
flakes and stripes on white. There are also Scarlet and Rose 
Flakes (Fig. 31 a). Then there are Selfs. These, of course, have 
the flowers all of one colour. Fancies include all the varieties that 
cannot be admitted in any of the other classes, such as those 
with a yellow- or a white-ground, as well as those mottled, 
flaked, or spotted with various colours. 

Picotees (Fig. 31 b) are really Carnations, and are comprised 
in both the White- and Yellow-Ground sections. They have a 
continuous edge of colour, wide or narrow, the rest of the flower 
being white or yellow, and the fewer stripes, spots, or bars, on 
the petals, the more are they esteemed. The Yellow-Ground 
Picotees have not yet attained to such a high standard of 
excellence as the White-Ground. The latter for show and garden 
purposes are divided into six classes, according to the colour or 
width of the margin, thus : light and heavy red edges ; light 
and heavy purple edges ; light and heavy rose and scarlet edges. 

Culture. — The Carnation is propagated by seed, layers, 
and slips, or cuttings. The first method is employed to 
obtain new varieties. Whether cross-fertilised or not, the 
Carnation is certain to vary very considerably from seed. 
Many of the seedlings will be as good as, or better 
than, the parent plant, but many more of them will not be 
so good, and even if the seed is obtained from the finest 
double flowers, there will still be a number of single-flowered 
varieties among them — about ten per cent. These varieties with 
single flowers are pretty enough, but very fugacious, evidently 
because they fertilise so readily. There is much pleasure in 



ON florists' flowers. 



55 



anticipating the flowering of the seedhngs, especially if the 
flowers from which the seed was obtained had been cross-fertilised. 
By far the best results may be expected from seed obtained by 
carefully transferring the pollen of one good variety to the 
stigmatic part of the flower of another, but, in doing this, it is 
well not to mix the classes. Selfs should be cross-fertilised with 
Selfs, Fancies with Fancies, &c. 

The seed should be sown in the spring, in a frame or green- 
house, and the plants treated much like small, half-hardy annuals, 
as Stocks and Asters. The seedlings should be pricked out about 
3in. asunder. They should be finally transplanted in the summer 
and autumn on to good, deep, well-enriched garden soil, allowing 
1 5 in. between the plants. Such seedlings will produce from about 
one hundred to two hundred blossoms on each plant. Nearly all 
the Border Carnations are propagated by layering. This is done 
in the autumn, or as soon as the flowers are past. Some fine 
soil is prepared, consisting of good loam, leaf-mould, and sand 
in about equal portions, while some of the earth should be removed 
from the base of the plant. The lower leaves should be stripped 
from the growths clustering round the base of the flower-stems. 
These growths are termed the "grass." An incision with a 
sharp knife should next be made into the stem at a joint, which 
should be cut through, and the layer pegged firmly into the 
prepared soil. As many as a dozen of these layers may be 
found at the base of one plant. They will be ready to be 
severed from the plants six weeks after layering, and they may 
be planted out in the open garden, or potted up into small pots 
to be kept in frames through the winter. 

Cuttings, or slips, may also be taken from Border Carnations, 
and be struck in close hand-lights or garden-frames with just a 
little bottom-heat. Only such growths as are too high up the 
stem to be layered should be treated in this way. Tree or 
Perpetual-Flowering Carnations are generally propagated by slips, 
as being the most convenient. 

The Carnation is a perfectly hardy plant, and succeeds very 
well indeed in the open borders of the flower-garden, or in beds 
specially prepared for them. When the time arrives for taking 
off the layers, the ground in the flower-garden should be in 
a condition to receive them. Some amateurs do not think it is 
necessary to prepare the soil until the plants are ready to go 
out ; but to do the Carnation well, the ground ought to be freely 
exposed to sun and air for at least six weeks previously; the 



56 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



longer the better, providing the soil is in a friable condition. 
Plant firmly, and put a thin layer of decayed manure on the 
surface of the ground amongst the plants : they form roots more 
readily when this is done. If the plants are set out in beds, 
they ought to be about i5in. asunder; if in borders, three 
plants should be arranged in a triangular form, about 6in. 
apart ; in this way an imposing head of blossom is obtained. It 
is well to put up a number of layers in small pots in case any 
of the plants should die during the winter. 

The time of planting is of some importance, and on this 
head experts differ. Some say plant as soon as the layers 
are ready : others advocate planting out as late as November. 
I have done it in September, October, and November, and 
could not observe any difference. In fact, the best lot of 
plants I ever had was put out the second week in November. 
The weather was favourable at the time of planting, and for 
two or three weeks after. 

All exhibitors of Carnations, and those who wish to enjoy 
them in perfection, grow a full collection in flower-pots. The 
layers are inserted when ready in what the trade term " sixties," 
two plants in a pot, and they are wintered in garden-frames. 
They are placed fairly close to the glass, in order that they may 
have the full benefit of light and air. In some districts damp 
is troublesome, doing some damage to the leaves by what is 
termed " spot," but free ventilation will usually prevent its 
appearance. The work during winter consists in keeping the plants 
clean by removing dead and decaying leaves, stirring the soil 
on the surface, and by paying careful attention to the watering. In 
March they must be transferred to their flowering-pots. Two 
plants should be placed in a pot Sin. in diameter, or three in one 
9in. The pots must be drained well, and the compost packed 
in firmly around the plants. In the process of transferring the 
plants from the small to the large pots, care must be taken 
not to disturb the roots more than is absolutely necessary. As 
the plants are repotted, they should be placed again into garden- 
frames until they are established, when the best way to treat 
them is to stand them out in the open air on a hard bottom of 
ashes. When the weather is mild, and the potting is not done 
until after the middle of March, it may be as well to stand 
them out-of-doors at once, as in the spring the frames are 
often required for half-hardy and tender plants. The flower- 
sticks ought to be placed to the plants very soon after they go 



ON florists' flowers. 



57 



out-of-doors, as high winds may snap off valuable plants close to 
the surface of the ground. 

Careful attention must be given to watering all through the 
season, and as soon as the flower-buds show colour the plants 
must be removed to the greenhouse, where they are to flower. 
Green-fly and thrips between them will disfigure both leaves 
and flowers if not dealt with at the outset. Fumigating must 
therefore be resorted to to prevent the " grass " from drawing 
up weakly. Air must be freely given, and when the flowers 
open they must be shaded from bright sunshine to preserve 
their beauty as long as possible. About the end of July, 
layering may be commenced, and it will be better to place the 
plants out-of-doors, as the layers become drawn if the 
plants are kept under glass. Those plants growing in the open 
borders should be layered, of course, where they are. To do this 
scratch some of the ordinary garden mould away from the base 
of the plants, replacing it with the compost already recommended. 

Tree Carnations require rather diff'erent treatment. As the 
growths are mostly found up the main stems, they cannot very 
readily be layered, and are propagated by slips from the main stems 
of the plants. These strike freely in hot-beds, or early in the season 
in a forcing-house with a little bottom-heat. The temperature 
of the- house should be about 55deg. If possible, the bottom- 
heat should be kept about 8odeg. to 9odeg. The slips will readily 
form roots in sixty-sized pots ; when the young plants are 
established, they should be potted singly, and gradually inured to 
greenhouse culture. From May until the end of September 
Tree Carnations do best out-of-doors. The best potting soil for 
Carnations is three parts of good loam, one part of decayed 
manure, and one part of leaf-mould ; sand to be added to lighten 
heavy soils. Mortar rubbish, broken up and run through a ^in. 
sieve, is also excellent to mix with the compost. 

Varieties. — The following is a list of the very best varieties 
now in cultivation, arranged in their classes : 

Scarlet Bizarres. — Robert Houlgrave, Dr. Hogg, Othello, 
Admiral Curzon, Joseph Crossland, and Robert Lord. 

Crimson Bizarres.- — J. S. Hedderley, J. D. Hextall, Patriot, 
Master Fred, Phoebe, and Edward Rowan. 

Pink and Purple Bizarres. — William Skirving, Edith Annie, 
Arline, Sarah Payne, Harmony, and Autocrat. 

Purple Flakes.— ]2imes Douglas, Gordon Lewis, Earl Stamford, 
Charles Henwood, George Melville, and Mayor of Nottingham. 



58 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Scarlet Flakes. — Sportsman, Guardsman, Matador, Miss Constance 
Grahame, John Wormald, and Alisemond. 

Rose Flakes. — Thalia, Lady ]Mary Currie, Rob Roy, ]\lrs. Rowan, 
John Keet, and Tim Bobbin. 

Selfs. — i\Irs. Eric Hambro, Lady HindUp, Her Grace, Dick 
Donovan, Silver Strand, Mrs. ]^IcRae, Cecilia, Queen of Scots, 




Fig. 3 2 . — Carnatiox 1 Czarina. 



Garville Gem, Endymion, Mrs. Colby Sharpin, ]Mrs. James Douglas, 
Nox, Helmsman, Barras, Bendigo, Germania, and Miss Maud 
Sullivan. 

Faiicies. — Czarina (Fig. 32), Brodick, George Cruickshank, The 
Czar, Mogul, Artemis, Perseus, Cardinal Wolsey, ^Monarch, Lady 
Jane Grey, Hidalgo, and Pelegia. 



ON florists' flowers. 



59 



Picotees White Groimd^ Light and Heavy Red-Edged. — Brunette, 
Emily, John Smith, Mrs. Gorton, Princess of Wales, Mary D. 
Anstiss, Charlotte Bronte, Ganymede, Mrs. Bower, Norman Carr, 
Thomas William, and Lena. 

Picotees Light and Heavy Purple-Edged. — Amelia, Calypso, Her 
Majesty, Mrs. Chancellor, Muriel, Polly Brazil, Ann Lord, Clara 
Penson, Jessie, Mrs. Kingston, Nymph, and Silvia. 

Picotees Rose- and Scarlet-Edged., Light and Heavy. — -Constance 
Heron, Mrs. Payne, Liddington's Favourite, Mrs. Rudd, Rosie 
Sydenham, Cordelia, Daisy, Ethel, Little Phil, Mrs. Sharp, Nellie, 
and Amy. 

Picotees Yelloiv-Groimd. — Annie Douglas, Eldorado, Golden 
Eagle, Mr. Nigel, Badminton, Stanley Wrightson, Mrs. Robert 
Sydenham, Hygeia, Mrs. Tremayne, Countess of Jersey, Florrie 
Henwood, Ladas, Voltaire, Miss Alice Mills, Empress Eugenie, 
Wanderer, Dervish, and His Excellency. 

The new disease, Hehninthosporiuni echinulaium.^ or "Rust," 
has been very troublesome in recent years, and it has certainly 
done much mischief when not taken in good time. It may be 
recognised by the blisters which appear on both sides of the 
leaves. These burst in time, and a chocolate-coloured powder 
is scattered. The best time to deal with the disease is on its 
appearance. All the diseased leaves should be picked off before 
the spores of the fungus are scattered. There are certain pre- 
pared liquids said to be effectual in destroying the fungus, but 
my own impression is that nothing will touch it when it has 
developed between the membranes of the leaves. The liquid 
might kill the resting-spores before they have penetrated the leaf. 

" Spot" (Uredo dianthi) is sometimes very virulent ; it is induced 
by certain states of the atmosphere in autumn, favourable to its 
development. The affected portions of the leaves should be cut 
off. The plants are seldom attacked if kept in a greenhouse ; 
and if they be attacked in a frame, the disease may be checked 
by removing the plants to an airy greenhouse. It is a waste of 
time to dip and w^ash plants in various solutions to destroy " spot." 

Greenfly is very troublesome, but it can be destroyed by 
fumigating with tobacco-smoke, if the plants be under glass, or, 
if out-of-doors, by dusting with tobacco-powder. Greenfly 
seldom, however, does any damage to planted-out Carnations, 
but the insects are found frequently on those in pots. 

Thrips also attack the flowers when in an unopened state, and 
those who grow for exhibition are frequently obliged to hurry 



6o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the plants into the house in order to fumigate them, as this 
is by far the most effectual method of disposing of the pest. Ear- 
wigs are troublesome when the flowers are open ; they lurk in 
the calyx and eat the petals through at their base. They must be 
destroyed by hand picking, or trapped by hollow beanstalks fixed 
between the stem of the Carnation and the supporting stick. 

A species of Tylenchus (eel worm) attacks the young layers 
at their base. The eggs are deposited in the stem or base of 
the leaves, and the worms feed inside, causing a considerable 
swelling of the stem, which becomes ruptured, and the plant 
ultimately dies. Burning the diseased plants is the only way to 
get rid of the pest, which is usually introduced with the soil. 
The old soil should be thrown away. 

The Carnation Maggot {Hyeleinia ?tigresce?is) has become very 
troublesome of recent years. It eats down the centre of the 
young growths, or it will attack seedling-plants as soon as the first 
leaves after the seed-leaves are formed. Its presence is dis- 
covered by the decay of the centre leaves, when it must be 
dislodged by means of a pin or a needle. The maggot is 
the larva of a small black fly very much resembling a house-fly. 

The Garden Pink {Dianfhiis plumariiis). 

This time-honoured inhabitant of our gardens is presumed to 
be the original source from which has been derived the beautiful 
varieties of the Garden Pink. It is a charming, old-fashioned 
garden plant, easy to grow, very beautiful, and with a delicate 
Clove scent, which to some is more grateful than the perfume 
of the Carnation. Many persons can grow Pinks who have not 
the means to cultivate the Carnation and Picotee ; they can 
be grown in almost any garden, and require no glass protection 
at any time. 

Culture. — This is simple enough. The plants should be 
obtained in the autumn, and be planted out where they are to 
flower early in October, or even in September if good, strong 
plants can be obtained. The object of planting out early 
is to have them well established before the winter sets in, as 
alternate frosts and thaws will lift them out of the ground. If 
this occurs, they must be pressed in again with the fingers, when 
the ground is in a condition to admit of this being done. 

Another detail which must not be lost sight of is the fact that 
unless Pinks are planted out early in the autumn, the lacing, 
which is the first point in the standard of excellence, will not be 



ON florists' flowers. 6 1 

perfect. Spring-planted Pinks put on the lacing badly, or not 
at all. They are sometimes grown in pots ; but in this way 
the lacing never comes out well. 

Any good garden soil is suitable for the Pink, but it ought 
to be worked to a depth of about i8in., and should be enriched 
with a liberal dressing of decayed manure ; it ought also to be 
in a good easy-working condition at the time of planting. 
Florists who make a speciality of the Pink, prepare beds for it, 
and the plants are set out some 9in. asunder, and the same 
distance between the rows. If the soil is rather heavy, or not 
in a good working condition, the plants have a much better 
chance if they can. have some soil prepared similar to potting-soil 
placed around the roots. This gives them a fair start, and may 
even mean the difference between success and failure. Stirring 
the ground between the plants with a Dutch hoe keeps down 
weeds, aerates the soil, and does much good. When hot 
weather sets in, the surface of the ground should be mulched 
with decayed manure, and if water is required this should be 
given freely — merely wetting the surface soil is of no use ; it 
must reach the roots. The plants are sometimes eaten over in 
the winter by an unseen enemy. It may be rabbits, but it may 
also be what gardeners term the Leather Jacket, or larva of 
the Crane Fly, or Daddy Long Legs {Tipiila oleracea). This is 
really a troublesome pest, and can best be destroyed by watching 
for it with a good lamp at night. It burrows in the ground, and 
is seldom found feeding by day. 

Propagation is effected by pipings, by layers, and, to obtain new 
varieties, from seed. The first is the usual method. The growths 
at the base of the flower-stems are slipped off, and inserted in fine 
soil in a garden-frame or hand-light, but they must not be shut 
up too close, or they are likely to damp off. They may even be 
put out in the open garden, in a shady part, and when this is 
done a cloudy, damp day should be selected. The pipings should 
be put into the ground with the finger, pressed firmly, and after- 
wards watered with a fine rose. The end of June or beginning 
of July is a good time to insert them. If the growths are layered, 
this may be done about a month earlier than the Carnations, 
and in a similar way. Seed may be sown in the spring, 
and the plants will flower the following season. They 
should be planted out in the open garden, and be treated 
exactly as advocated in the case of the named varieties 
of Carnations. 



62 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Two classes of Pinks are recognised. The Laced or florists' 
type, which has been in cultivation for many years, are grown 
exclusively in the border. The forcing Pinks are self-coloured, 
or purple and reddish-purple combined. The old-gardeners did 
not hold this flower in so much esteem as the Carnation. Rea, 
who published a "Complete Florilege," in 1676, says: "Pinks 
are of many sorts, and little esteem ; they flower with Roses 
in June, and every ordinary gardener knows how to dispose of 
them, as also that vulgar plant called Thrift." 

The forcing Pinks are really very charming, and a succession 
of blossom can be kept up from March until June. The pipings 
must be put in as early as March, and the plants can be grown 
on in boxes until they are ready to plant out in the open garden 
in May. If provided with good, rich soil, they form large clumps 
by the end of the season. In September they should be lifted 
and planted in 6in. pots, larger or smaller ones being used 
according to the size of the plants. They should be potted 
firmly, and placed in frames until the plants are removed 
into warmer quarters, when successive batches of them may be 
stood in the forcing-houses. 

Varieties. — The following Laced Pinks are now in cultivation. 
It must, however, be observed that they vary very little in colour, 
and one may fairly describe them as deep red, rosy-red, and 
reddish-maroon The colour is in the centre of the flowers, the 
remainder of the petals being white, with a band of colour near 
the margin : Bertha, Bertram, Boiard, Clara, Device, Emerald, 
Empress of India, George Brown, George White, Harry Hooper, 
Lady Craven, Minerva, Miss Pomeroy, Mrs. Darke, Mrs. Waite, 
Reliance, Sarah, and The Rector. 

The best of the forcing Pinks, Selfs and Fancies, are as follow : 
Alice Lee, white mule Pink ; Anne Boleyn, rosy-purple, darker 
centre ; Ascot, pink, deep red centre ; Clove Pink, rose ; Ernest 
Ladhams, large blush, claret centre ; Her Majesty, large white ; 
Homer, rose, darker centre ; Mrs. Lakin, white, pale rose centre ; 
Mrs. Sinkins, large white ; Paddington, pink, dark centre ; Snow- 
flake, pure white ; Albino, a new white variety, with large, well- 
formed white flowers. 

The Dahlia {Dah/ia variabilis). 

For the decoration of the flower-garden in autumn this is 
certainly the showiest of flowering plants grown; it is also the 
mainstay of the autumn flower shows. There has been a great 



ON florists' flowers. 



63 



advance, during the last decade or two, in the improvement of 
the DahHa. By careful cross-fertilisation and judicious selection, 
improvement has been continuous. The reputed parent of the 
garden varieties is Dahlia variabilis^ discovered in 1789, and 
named in honour of Dahl, a Swedish pupil of Linnaeus. It 
first found its way into England through Lady Holland, who 
sent seeds of it from Spain ; plants were raised from these seeds, 
and flowered in the gardens at Holland House in 1805. The 
first double flowers were produced four or five years subsequently. 
By referring to the gardening books published early in the 
century we find that in 18 14 the Dahlia was extensively 
cultivated, and considerable improvement began to be effected. 
Twenty years later, on March ist, 1833, the first number 
of the Floricultiiral Cabinet came out, and the first coloured 
plate published that month was of a new Dahlia — Commander 
in Chief. The coloured plates in this cheap publication were of 
poor quality, but it shows a flower quite double, of a deep reddish 
colour, and reflexed petals. The first really good double Dahlia 
was raised in 1832 by a Mr. Line, at Springfield, near Bromley, 
in Kent, and was sent out by Mr. Inwood, of Putney Heath, 
under the name of Springfield Rival. 

At this time Dahlia exhibitions were organised near London, 
and the fame of the Dahlia spread all over the country. With 
the demand for new Dahlias, raisers of seedlings abounded. The 
most successful amongst them was the late Mr. John Keynes, 
of Salisbury. He was fortunate, he says, in raising a fine variety 
with flowers approaching to blue, which he sold to a Mr. Mountjoy, 
for ^50. Mr. Keynes adds: "Since that time (about 1840) I 
have never ceased to grow seedlings, and I am free to confess 
that the great charm of floriculture would be dispelled, if I had 
no seedlings to anticipate." He adds the following practical 
remarks: "I leave my flowers pretty much to themselves until 
about September 15th, making it a rule never to cut any plants 
for show, when I would sacrifice seed by so doing. About that 
date I cut the plants to scarecrows, leaving only the few flowers 
that may be coming into blossom, and these produce seed in 
abundance. I sow my seed about March loth, taking care that 
the pans containing the soil are placed in heat a day or two 
previously. Good seed is generally very thin. I care little for a 
plump seed." The seed sown in spring will produce plants that 
will flower in the open border the same season. The work so 
well begun by Mr. John Keynes, was carried on by other 



64 • THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

enthusiasts, until large, handsome, perfectly-globular flowers were 
produced, of what amateurs termed Show (Fig. 33) and Fancy 




Fig. 33. — Show Dahlia Gloire de Lyon. 

varieties, vvhen the highest standard of excellence was reached. 
Small forms were produced, which have been designated Pom- 
pone Dahlias (Fig. 34). These are more useful as cut-flowers, 
and when well set up, quite as effective as exhibition plants. 
They have attained as high a standard of excellence as the large- 
flowered section. 

By the introduction of D. Jiiarezii, the Cactus Dahlia, quite 
a new type of flower was introduced. Fanciers have taken 
it in hand, and still further improved it for border-culture, 
while the variety is a distinct feature at the autumn exhibitions. 
About the time of the introduction of the Cactus Dahlia, there 
was introduced a pretty form of D. variabilis, named Paragon. 
It had single flowers like its first parent; but soon the single- 
flowered varieties became popular, and now we find certain 
amateurs rejecting the double-flowered varieties iti their seed- 
beds, and saving only such as have flowers of improved form, with 
single flowers (Figs. 35 and 36). 



ox FLORISTS'" FLOWERS. 65 

The garden varieties in all the above sections are very numer- 
ous, and are being added to year after year. Almost every florist 
of any pretensions, publishes lists of the best varieties, and these 
are being altered every season, so that it is needless to give 
descriptive lists in this place. 

Culture. —The methods of saving seed and raising seedlings 
have been already described. We will now deal with propagation 
by cuttings, which is the usual way of obtaining a stock of 
plants. The tubers which have been preserved during the winter 
in a dry place, where frost cannot penetrate, should be planted 




Fig. 34. — PoMPONE Dahlia Little S^\'eetheart. 



in boxes, in February, and placed in a hothouse where there is 
a moderate temperature. They will soon begin to grow. As 

F 



66 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



soon as the shoots have attained a length of 2in. or 3in., they 
may be taken off and planted singly as cuttings in thumb pots, 
and stood in a forcing-house or on a hot-bed. Each cutting will 
form roots, and as soon as they are well-established they should 
be potted on into larger sizes, and inured to a cooler 
atmosphere. 

The Dahlia is one of the very easiest plants to propagate, 
and also to grow on for planting out. All that is required in 





Fig. 35. — Cactus Dahlia Miss Finch. 
(Cheal.) 

the early spring is to see that the plants receive no check to 
their growth. They are necessarily propagated in a warm 
temperature, and in the process of inuring them to that of a 
greenhouse or a garden-frame, they should not receive any 
check from cold winds or a low night temperature. 

Another method of propagation is by producing what 
gardeners term " pot-roots." These are produced by taking oft' 



ON florists' flowers. 



67 



the surplus side-growths from the Dahlias in the summer ; they 
are cut through just under a joint, and struck as cuttings in 
garden-frames. When well-rooted, they should be potted off 
into large "sixties" or small "forty-eights." They will finish up 
their growth in the autumn. Such plants can be started 
in the spring, and when they have made some growth 
they should be transferred to larger-sized flower-pots. It is a 




Fig. 36. — Cactus Dahlia Mrs. John Goddard. 

(Cheal.) 



.mistake to plant out too early. The first week in June is a 
good time. I would rather transfer the plants to larger flower- 
pots than turn them out, if there is any danger of frost. The 
plants are usually kept in ordinary garden-frames, and before 
planting out they should be thoroughly inured to the open air 
by the lights being removed by day, and also at night if there 
is no probability of frost. 



68 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



The Dahlia is a gross-feeding plant, and requires a rich, deep 
soil in order that the blossoms may be fully developed. It 
ought, moreover, to be trenched about 2ft. deep, and during 
the process a good supply of rich farmyard manure should 
be worked in. The operation of trenching should be done in 
the previous autumn, before the ground is saturated with the 
autumn rains. In fine weather in winter the surface ought to be 
forked over to a depth of 3in, or 4in. This will allow the air 
to penetrate more fully into the soil, getting it into the very 
best condition for planting in the season. At planting-time it 
is best to put the permanent sticks into the ground. Stout 
sticks, standing 3ft. to 4ft. out of the ground, and i5in. less 
or more into it, should be selected. If the soil is in good 
condition, sufficient should be dug out in front of the sticks to 
allow the ball of the roots to go well into the soil. The 
plants should be firmly inserted, and tied to the sticks at once. 
If the soil is not in good condition, it is an excellent plan to 
dig out a spit or two of mould, and replace it with some 
prepared soil, such as would be used in repotting the plants. 
In favourable weather they will soon grow away vigorously, when 
all the side-growths ought to be removed except four. These 
should not be tied up in a bundle — each should have a separate 
stick to support it ; then by careful training a very handsome 
plant will be produced. 

At this time it cannot be denied that the plants require con- 
siderable attention. As the growths advance they m.ust be tied 
to the sticks, and the earlier ties must be seen to, as otherwise 
they have a tendency to cut into the succulent growths of the 
plant. When hot, dry weather sets in, water must be applied 
very freely to the roots, and a mulch of decayed manure is excellent 
to prevent the moisture from too rapidly evaporating. If the very 
finest show blossoms are required for exhibition, it is necessary to 
shade some of the varieties. Cardboard caps are put over the 
flowers, and held in position by a stout stick driven into the ground. 

The plan adopted by the old florists, when the Show and 
Fancy varieties were the only kinds grown for exhibition, was to 
drive a stout stick into the ground, and on the top of the stick 
was nailed a board about gin. square. There was a slit in the 
board wide enough to draw in the stem of the Dahlia blossom 
intended to be shaded; the tips of the back petals of the blossoms 
rested on the board, and an inverted flower-pot shaded the blossom. 
Earwigs will get into the blossoms it they are not trapped 



ON florists' flowers. 



69 



and carefully watched. Thrips are also very troublesome, but 
each blossom can be tied up in a muslin bag to prevent its being 
injured by these lively pests of the Dahlia-grower. 

The Pansy ( Viola tricolor). 

One of the most charming of garden flowers, and an undoubted 
native of Britain, is the Pansy ; but what a difference between 
the tiny wildling of cultivated ground in England and the lovely 
flowers of our gardens ! Shakespeare gives it its true English 
name of Pansy. Who does not know the remarks of poor 
demented Ophelia ? " There's rosemary, that's for remembrance ; 
pray love, remember : and there is pansies, that's for thoughts." 
Spenser writes of the " pretie pawnee," and Ben Jonson — 
" tuneful Ben " — also alludes to it as " The panzie this ; O, that's 
for lovers' thoughts but the sweet flower so much in lovers' 
thoughts had not attained to a high state of excellence if we 
are to judge by . the examples figured in the " Floricultural 
Cabinet," so late as the year 1832 and onwards. The im- 
provement in the flower was, however, very rapid during the 
next quarter of a century, as the coloured plates of it from 
1850 in "The Florist" abundantly testify. About that time the 
Belgian, or Fancy Pansy, was introduced. Previous to that we 
cultivated the Show Pansy, as it was termed, divided then, 
as it is now, into three sections, White-Ground, Yellow- 
Ground, and Selfs ; and the old-fashioned florists for years would 
not look at a Fancy Pansy. Now, the Fancies, like the Japanese 
Chrysanthemums, have taken the lead as garden flowers. Fig. 37 
represents a Fancy Pansy, and Fig. 38 a Rayed Viola. The 
two illustrations are given side by side, as amateurs frequently 
confuse Pansies with Violas. 

Cultivation. — The Pansy is a flower requmng but little 
attention, even to grow it to perfection ; but then the attention 
that it needs is not always bestowed upon it. As it is easy to 
cultivate, so also is it propagated without any difficulty. To obtain 
new kinds seed must be saved from the best varieties, and be 
sown in July. The plants will be strong enough to put out where 
they are to flower in October ; the soil ought to be prepared if 
possible three months previously, by trenching the ground at least 
1 5 in. deep, if the nature of the soil will admit of such a depth. 
If the ground is heavy, cow-manure should be used ; and a good 
dressing of it should be given. A layer may be placed in 
the bottom of the trench, and another about 5in. or 6in. below 



70 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the surface. Of course, if some good loam could be obtained, 
mixed with decayed manure and leaf-mould, a layer of this, 3in. 
or 4in. deep, over the surface, would be very desirable ; but it 
cannot always be had, and most people have to put up with the 
ordinary soil of the garden. If the soil is heavy, some river-sand 
should be added to the surface and lightly forked in. I plant 
seedlings ift. apart, for in good soil they make rapid growth, 
producing flowers in great abundance. 

Named varieties must be propagated by cuttings only. Some 
persons have an idea that by saving seed from a named variety 




1 I 
I 



Fig. 37.— Fancy Pansy. Fig. 38.— Rayed Viola. 

of a Pansy or a Carnation, that the variety from which the seed 
has been saved will be reproduced. This is an error. It is 
very likely that some of them will resemble the parent ; but, 
the largest proportion of them will not. It is advisable to 
cross-fertilise the best varieties ; as, unless this is done, the 
results will not be so satisfactory. Cuttings strike very freely 
in a shady place, and they are better without glass in the 
form of hand-lights or frames. I find a place on the north side 
of a wall or fence, and insert the cuttings, some time in July 
or August, or even as late as September. The best cuttings are 
those taken from the centre of the plants. They are small. 



ON florists' flowers. 



71 



slender growths (the thick, pithy, flowering growths are useless), 
and have generally plenty of rootlets formed or forming at their 
base. If they are carefully pulled out, a score or more of these 
growths may be obtained from one plant. Dibble these rooted 
slips out in rows, about 3in. asunder, in fine sandy soil, and 
in the shady position on the north side of a wall or building : 
no other artificial shading is necessary. They should be strong 
enough to plant out where they are to flower about the end of 
September or early in October ; and the same treatment is 
necessary for named varieties as for the seedlings. 

Pansies are quite hardy, but even a hardy plant will not pass 
well through the winter unless it is well established in the 
ground ; and highly-bred Pansies may not be quite so hardy as 
the wild plant. After planting, and if the growths are long, it 
is better to peg them down, rather than to place sticks to the 
plants. The ground should be kept free from weeds, and 
the surface stirred occasionally if it becomes hardened by 
rains. 

Wire worm is troublesome in new soil, and may be brought 
in wMth the loam ; but it is seldom found in an old, cultivated 
garden. Another troublesome pest is the Leather Jacket, which 
burrows in the ground by day, and may be detected feeding 
at night. Slugs are also found feeding on the blossoms, rather 
than on the leaves. Growth goes on even in w^inter, when the 
weather is mild ; and as the spring advances, it is of course 
more rapid. Flowers are freely produced, but it will be found 
that unless something is done, the successional blossoms rapidly 
deteriorate. This they will not do to a great extent, if the poor 
quality blossoms are cut off, and the ground is dressed with 
2in. of a rich compost, say half manure and half loam. The 
grow^ths should be pegged into this, and the plants will produce 
blossoms again of the best quality. It is astonishing how 
rapidly the roots of Pansies exhaust the soil to a considerable 
depth. A second dressing should be applied if the plants 
again show signs of distress. When Pansies are grown for 
exhibition, the flowers should be kept removed from the plants 
up to fourteen days of the date of exhibition, and the growths 
must not be crowded. 

The Pansy succeeds so well in the open border that it might 
seem superfluous to grow it under glass ; but it can be grown 
in ordinary garden-frames to a very high state of perfection. 
Indeed, the Council of the Royal Horticultural Society thought 



72 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

SO highly of this method of culture some twenty-five years 
ago, that prizes were offered by it for Pansies grown in 
flower-pots, and exhibited in April, and a few very beautiful 
specimens used to be exhibited. The plants must be kept as 
close as possible to the glass lights, and these should be used 
only to protect the plants from rough weather. The very earliest 
slips or cuttings should be used for the pot-plants. One or two 
plants may be potted into large " sixties," and when they have 
well filled these small pots with roots, they should be repotted 
into "thirty-twos" (6in.). A rich soil composed of three 
parts of good fibrous loam, one part of decayed cow-manure, and 
one part of leaf-mould, with a little sand added if necessary, must 
be used. When grown under glass, a species of aphis of a reddish 
colour attacks them, but it is easily destroyed by fumigating. 

From good strong plants, if the weather be mild, a succession 
of blossoms may be had from Christmas onwards, and lovely 
large clean blossoms they are ; but it must not be forgotten that 
slugs are the desperate enemies of Pansies in frames, and that 
they eat the blossoms rather than the leaves. They must be 
watched at night. It is a good plan before arranging the plants 
in the frames to dust the ground thickly with soot. I find this 
even more effectual than quicklime. The latter is no use after 
it has been wet : it will destroy the pests when first applied ; 
but soot retains its effect for a long period, and is more likely 
to keep the voracious pests at bay. 

Varieties. — The following is a list of the best Fancy Pansies. 
They are all of large size, good form, and of very rich and 
varied colours. There are, of course, many equally good, but 
new varieties are being added yearly, and those who would 
purchase a collection can easily obtain a catalogue from 
a trade grower, and therein will be found all the best varieties 
up to date, and described according to their colours : Agnes 
Mabel, Alexander Smith, Andrew Frater, Bernard Doulton, C. B. 
Renshaw, Cleopatra, Colonel M. R. G. Buchanan, Emmeline, 
George Stuart, Ladas, Marmion, Mrs. C. Lambie, Mrs. D. John- 
stone, Mrs. R. G. Moir, Mrs. William Lockwood, Mysie Paul, 
Petunia, Stephanie, Tam worth Herald, Tam worth Yellow, Tom 
Walters, W. J. Pye, W. H. Clarke, and William Sydenham. 

The Viola, or Tufted Pansy ( Viola coriiuta). 

The beautiful garden-plants cultivated under the name of 
Violas may be said to be quite modern. They had their origin 



ON florists' flowers. 



73 




something like forty years ago, at a time when the bedding-out 
of greenhouse-plants was the leading feature of most of the 
gardens in England. At that time the popularity of any new plant 
was assured if it was adapted for "bedding-out." Amongst other 

plants brought into promi- 
nence for that purpose was 
Viola cormita (Horned Violet) 
(Fig. 39). This pretty plant 
had been grown in gardens 
for nearly a century. It was 
figured in the Botanical Maga- 
zi7ie in 1805, Tab. 791, and 
Dr. Sims, the then editor, 
stated that the plant was in- 
troduced to the Royal Gardens, Kew, by Dr. 
Ortega, in 1776. It is stated to be a native of 
Spain and Mount Atlas. The flowers are pale 
blue in colour. The specific name is in allusion 
to the peculiar formation of the sepals ; while 
the common name of "Tufted" has reference 
to the habit of the plants. This plant was 
grown by thousands as a bedding-plant, and 
it subsequently became cross-fertilised with the Show Tansies. 
The produce of this cross were grown as Violas. The hardier, 
more wiry constitution of Viola cornuta was transferred to the 
offspring of this cross, and although the form of the so-called 
Violas has been vastly improved, the constitutional vigour of 
V. cornuta is still there, and the plants resist winter's cold and 
summer's heat better than the Show or Fancy varieties of 
Tansies. 

Another species used was Viola lutea (Yellow Mountain Violet). 
The flowers are bright yellow, and the plant is found on the 
higher mountain pastures of Britain. This plant never resisted 
the drought so well as the Horned Violet ( V. cormita), but it 
was used a good deal for bedding-out, and is probably the 
parent of the yellow forms of the Tufted Pansy. 

Cultivation. — The culture of Violas and Pansies does not 
differ materially, except that better results are obtained with the 
Viola, and with considerably less trouble. This does not imply 
that it is not desirable to take pains with the culture of this 
charming, hardy, border flower. In good, deep garden loam, 
well-enriched with decayed manure, the Viola will give a 



Fig. 39. — Viola 

CORNUTA. 



74 ^ THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



vigorous and sustained display of its beautiful blossoms, from 
early spring until the fall of the leaf in autumn, when frosty 
nights check the growth of the plants. Of course, during the 
period between early spring and late autumn, the plants require 
the careful hand of the gardener to keep up a good display 
of blossoms. There is nothing to do during the early months 
of the year, except to keep the plants free from weeds, and stir 
up the surface of the soil occasionally, as it is apt to become 
caked by rains, and not in a condition to promote a healthy, 
vigorous growth. The Viola, as well as the Pansy, must be 
kept moist at the roots. Few plants have such an immense 
mass of rootlets, spreading m all directions, and if dry weather 
sets in they soon extract the moisture from the surrounding 
soil. It is therefore very desirable, as soon as hot, dry weather 
sets in, to place a thin layer of decayed manure all over the 
surface of the beds, and to water freely. A good soaking is 
necessary, so that the water will go down to the rootlets. It 
will carry the fertilising properties of the manure with it, and 
will aid greatly in keeping up the blossom in fulness and 
quality all through the season ; but it is not well to allow 
the plants to become overcrowded with growth and blossom. 
If, as sometimes happens, a brilliant display of blossom is wanted 
on a particular date — and this applies to Pansies as well as 
Violas — I advise picking off the blossoms about two weeks 
before the date, giving a surface-dressing, and pegging the 
shoots down into it. Even if the plants have become exhausted 
by a long period of plentiful blossom, they will start again if 
well supplied with water (if needed) like giants refreshed, and 
the blossoms will be abundant and of good quality. 

There are now two sections of Violas. The early types had 
rays of colour, striking out from the centre of the blossom, but 
after a time seedlings were obtained of better form, and without 
rays, or, at least, the rays were inconspicuous, and from the 
point of view of the florist, the rayless varieties were the best, 
and this type of flower has been greatly improved in recent 
years. 

Planting should be done in the autumn, in order to get a good 
display in spring, and they should be strong, well-established 
plants. Propagation should take place in July and August, in 
the same manner as advised for Pansies. Plant out permanently 
in September or October the same distance, viz., a foot between 
the plants. It will also be well to plant out a bed or 



ON florists' flowers. 



75 



border of Violas in the spring. Seedlings may be treated in 
the same manner as named varieties. The Viola is still one 
of the best plants for bedding-out purposes, and lines or masses 
of colour, according to the taste of the owner, may be planted, 
and the effect is very good indeed. 

Varieties. — The following is a selected list of the best 
varieties : Amy Barr, Blanche, Britannia, Charm, Councillor 
Waters, Devonshire Cream, Duchess of Fife, Florizel, Formid- 
able, George Lord, Goldfinch, John Quarton, John Shires, 
Kitty Hay, Magnificent, Mary Stuart, Mrs. J. Donnelly, Mrs. 
R. Hare, Niphetos, Pembroke, Rover, Stephen, William Neil, 
and Wm. Haigs. 

The Garden Tulip {Tidipa Gesneriand). 

" The Tulip asketh a rich soil and the careful hand of the 
gardener." This fine old garden flower has a history of its own 
both in Britain and on the Continent of Europe. Most gardeners 
have read of the Tulip mania in Holland, so long ago as the 
years 1634-37. It was nothing more than a speculation, which 
made an old writer exclaim, "Great is the folly of mankind." 
Beckmann, in his interesting book, " The History of Inventions 
and Discoveries," gives a full account of this gambling traffic, 
as he calls it. He says, " During the time of the Tulipomania 
a speculator often offered and paid large sums for a root which 
he never received, and never wished to receive. Another sold 
roots which he never possessed or delivered. Oft did a noble- 
man purchase of a chimney-sweep Tulips to the amount of two- 
thousand florins, and sell them at the same time to a farmer, 
and neither the nobleman, chimney-sweep, nor farmer had roots 
in their possession, or wished to possess them. Before the Tulip 
season was over more roots were sold, purchased, bespoke, and 
proniised to be delivered, than in all probability was to be 
found in the gardens of Holland. And when Semper Augustus 
was not to be had, which happened twice, no variety, perhaps, 
was oftener purchased and sold." 

Persons who dealt in flowers in this way could not have any 
real love for them as objects of beauty, and a source of pure 
delight to the cultivator. Some of us are old enough to 
remember the time when bulbs of Tulips were sold at very high 
prices. As late as the year 1854, Mr. Groom, of Clapham Rise, 
published a catalogue of Tulips. Three varieties in his list were 
priced at one-hundred guineas per bulb. They were Miss Eliza 



76 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Seymour, Duchess of Cambridge, and Princess Mary of Cambridge. 
Tiiere were other varieties catalogued at the same time at fifty 
guineas, twenty-one guineas, and ten guineas, respectively. Pro- 
bably Mr. Groom died about this time, as his entire collection 
of Tulips was sold by Messrs. Protheroe and Morris as they 
stood in the rows, seven bulbs in a row ; but they realised poor 
prices, the highest price given for a row being under seven 
guineas. Mr. Groom was one of the leading cultivators. He 
prepared his Tulip beds of rather poor sandy soil, and his 
notion of good culture was to starve the roots so as to obtain 
purity in the cup— that is, the base of the petals. 

The late Mr. Samuel Barlow, of Manchester, a leading northern 
cultivator, did not believe in starving his Tulips. He says 
" Purity and refinement are not achieved by starvation." 

The Tulip will grow and flower well in ordinary garden soil 
which has been prepared by trenching it to the depth of i8in. 
or more, and working in during the process a fair proportion of 
decayed farmyard manure ; but there should be about 6in. of 
good garden soil above the top layer of manure. It is very 
desirable that the soil should be prepared some time before the 
bulbs are inserted, so that it can be well-pulverised by exposure 
to the air. If the soil is trenched up in September it might be 
in good condition by the first week in November, which is a 
very good time for planting. The old-fashioned system of 
planting is a very good one. The bulbs were planted in beds 
about 4ft. wide, with an alley between the beds i5in. to i8in. 
wide. Each bed would contain seven rows of Tulips. The outer 
rows should be 3in. from the edge of the beds, and if spaces of 
yin. be allowed between the rows that would exactly fill up the 
4ft. width. The bulbs should be inserted yin. apart, and about 
5in. deep. If the ground is heavy, some sand ought to be 
added to it and dug in, for it is well known that a sandy soil 
suits the Tulip best. Although good results are obtained by 
planting the Tulip in ordinary soil, it is well to suggest that if 
time can be spared, and material is available, it is a good plan 
to dig out the ordinary soil to the depth of 6in. or 8in., and 
replace it with decayed fibrous loam well chopped up, and mixed 
with some coarse sand. In this virgin mould the very best 
results are attainable. The old florists also knew well to what 
height certain varieties would grow. 

With seven rows in a bed, the centre row would be the fourth 
from either side, and the florist arranged his bulbs into first, 



ON florists' flowers. 



77 



second, third, and fourth row varieties, according to their height, 
the tallest of course being in the centre of the bed. They 
were all planted, too, according to colour and class, and no 
labels were used. The fancier had a book, and the plan of the 




Fig. 40. — Florists' Tulips ix a Bed. 

bed was sketched in it, and every bulb planted was entered in 
the book according to its name and class. 

There are three classes of Tulips : Bizarres, Bybloemens, and 
Roses. These are again divided for garden and exhibition pur- 
poses into Feathered and Flamed Tulips. The ground-colour in 
the Bizarres is a clear yellow, and in the Byloemens and Roses 
a pure white. The flame and feathering on the Bizarres is red, 
chestnut red, or maroon ; some have the markings so dark as 
to appear almost black, such as may be seen in Storer's William 
Lea, or Slater's Masterpiece. The red ground is prominent in 
Storer's Dr. Hardy, or Bowler's Everard ; there is the chestnut 
feathering in Ashmole's Garibaldi. The Bybloemens have the 
colours of a deep rich purple or shades of purple, so dark in 
Jackson's David Jackson that the fanciers describe the feathering 
as black. Hepworth's Bessie is also a handsome variety, with 
beautiful purple-black feathering on a pure white ground. Other 
varieties are feathered and flamed with various shades of colour ; 
in a few the purple almost verges into hlac. 



78 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



The Roses, as they are termed, are also of many degrees of 
intensity, and very charming in the flamed and feathered state. 
As illustrations of the various shades of colour we have Industry 
(Lea), a bright carmine scarlet feather on the purest of white 
grounds. Heroine is a true Rose, generally finely-feathered on a 
very pure white. Nanny Gibson (Hepworth) has a brilliant 
scarlet feather on white, and is very lovely in this state. Another 
shade of colour (rosy-red on pure white ground, both flamed and 
feathered) is found in Charmer, Mabel, Mrs. Lomax, and Pretty 
Jane, raised by a florist named Martin. These are all one 




Fig. 41. — A Group of Florists' Tulips. 

variety, and it may be well to point out how this happens. Nearly 
all seedling Tulips flower first in what florists term the '"breeder" 
state, that is, as self-coloured ; and for some years it will continue 



ON florists' flowers. 



79 



to flower as a Self, and it passes into the hands of various florists 
in this breeder state. But by-and-by the breeders will break 
into flamed or feathered flowers. Brown may have one, Jones 
another, and a third may be in the hands of Robinson. Each 
of these florists claim the right to name any variety that may 
break into the flamed or feathered condition in their hands ; but 
they are all the same thing, varying slightly in the quality of 
the markings, and whoever happens to get the best break claims 
to have the finest strain. The same remarks apply to all the 
other classes. Again, a florist such as the Rev. F. D. Horner 
obtains all the best strains in existence in all the classes, and 
florists get to know of the superior quality of the Tulips grown 
by him, and they may obtain this strain, calling it " Horner's 
strain," probably because they know well that a fastidious florist 
will not grow a bad strain of any of his favourites. Besides 
the above-named Tulips (Figs. 40 and 41) there are the beautiful 
species and their varieties. These will be dealt with under 
"Hardy Bulbs and Tubers," Chapter X. 

Culture. — The following is a short resume of culture. The 
beds being prepared as already advised, proceed with the planting 
very early in Xovember. The bulbs should be put 5in. 
into the ground, and as it is usually in a rather wet condition at 
this season, I place a little quite dry sand under the bulbs, and 
a little more over them. Some growers in the North do not 
plant until December, but that is too late for the South, as the 
young rootlets begin to raise the covering of the base of the 
bulbs early in November, and they are ready to . push out 
immediately they are put into the ground. Some time in 
January, the plants will appear above ground, and although the 
Tulip is a perfectly hardy plant, the leaves are likely to be 
injured by intense frost. Fanciers have an arrangement of iron 
hoops bent over their beds, held together by string, and mats 
are placed over the plants in frosty weather. It is also an 
excellent practice to mulch the surface of the beds with decayed 
stable-manure. This very effectually keeps out the frost, if not too 
intense, and also enriches the soil. It is not absolutely necessary 
to cover the Tulips with mats in this way, but it is certainly 
desirable. 

About the end of April the flower-buds would be considerably 
advanced, and to bring out the markings of the flowers, and 
retain the colours as long as possible, it is absolutely necessary 
that they should be shaded from the sun, and sheltered from 



8o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



frost and heavy rain. Plorists have a framework erected high 
enough to walk under it, and over this is the shading, which 
is rolled up or let down at pleasure. This method answers very 
well ; but old frame-lights may be utilised for this purpose. The 
lights are supported on a framework, and the sides have 
some shading nailed on to the posts that support the 
lights ; in bright sunshine, shading is also placed over the glass, 
and in this way most beautiful blossoms are obtained. One of 
the best northern growers has built a light glasshouse over his 
Tulip beds ; it is freely ventilated, of course, and in the cooler 
climate of the extreme north of Yorkshire this plan answers 
admirably — the growth of the plants, and the wonderful purity 
of the blossoms surpass expectation. 

When the Tulip blossoms fade, the seed-pods ought to be 
broken off, and in three or four weeks after blossoming the 
bulbs may be taken up and stored in a dry place. The florists 
consider it is time to lift the bulbs when the flower-stems can 
be bent without breaking. 

Varieties. — The following is a list of the best Tulips prepared 
by that eminent grower, the late Mr. Samuel Barlow : 

Feathered Bizarres. — Commander, Demosthenes, Dr. Dalton, 
Garibaldi, George Hayward, John Radcliff'e, Sir Joseph Paxton, 
Sulphur, and Target. 

Fiamed Bizarres. — ^Ajax, Excelsior, Dr. Dalton (this and some 
others are found in both the feathered and flamed state). Dr. 
Hardy, Everard, Lord Delamere, Masterpiece, Orion, Sir Joseph 
Paxton, Surpass Polyphemus, Sulphur, William Lea, and William 
Wilson. 

Feathered Byblmriens. — Adonis, Alice Gray, Bessie, David 
Jackson, Friar Tuck, Mrs. Cooper, Nulli Secundus, Nimbus, 
Talisman, and William Bentley. 

Flajned Bybloemens. — Adonis, Attraction, Bacchus, Carbuncle, 
Duchess of Sutherland, David Jackson, Friar Tuck, John Peacock, 
and Talisman (this variety is best in the flamed state). 

Feathered Roses. — Annie McGregor, Charmer, Mabel, Mrs. 
Lomax, and Pretty Jane (these four are the same). Heroine, 
Industry, Lady Grosvenor, Lady Wilton, Madame St. Arnaud, 
Modesty, and Nanny Gibson. 

Flamed Roses. — Adair, Annie McGregor, Lady Sefton, Mrs. 
Barlow, Triomphe Royal, and Sarah Headly. 

Breeders' Bizarres. — Ariosto, Dr. Hardy, Excelsior, Horatio, 
Orion, and Sir J. Paxton. 



ON florists' flowers. 



8i 



Bybloeniens. — Alice Gray, Ashmole's 112, David Jackson, Glory 
of Stakehill, Martin's 117, Miss Hardy, and Talisman. 

Roses. — Annie McGregor, Lady Grosvenor, Lady May, Mabel, 
Mrs. Barlow, and Nanny Gibson. 

The Gladiolus [Gladiolus gandave?isis). 

There are very numerous species of this fine genus of Cape 
plants in cultivation ; but, treating it as a florists' flower, we can 
deal only with the garden varieties, which have been obtained 
by careful cross-fertilisation during the last fifty years by 
amateurs and others. The Hon. and Rev. Dean Herbert 
began the work of hybridising more than sixty years ago ; 
but he was more of a botanist than a florist, and crossed numer- 
ous species which had been recently introduced from the 
Cape, but he did not follow up the work so as to obtain good 
forms, and thus bring the plant into the family of garden 
favourites. A French gardener of note, Mons. Souchet, gar- 
dener to the Emperor Napoleon at Fontainebleau, near Paris, 
was the first to make a decided florists' flower of the Gladiolus. 
He introduced many new varieties yearly through one or two 
of the Paris seedsmen, the flowers being of admirable form 
and substance. Messrs. Kelway, of Langport, still further 
improved it, and now there are hundreds of beautiful varieties 
in cultivation (Fig. 42). 

Cultivation. — The Gladiolus is very easily propagated from 
seed, and the flowers can be cross-fertilised so readily that any 
amateur can do it. This is done when the plants are in flower 
in August, and the seed ripens about the end of September. 
As soon as the pods open they should be gathered, and laid 
•out to dry in an airy room. The seed should be sown in pots 
or pans from the middle to the end of March. It will 
germinate freely in a slightly heated hot-bed. If the seeds are 
sown thinly the plants may be left in the receptacles in which 
they were sown. Bulbs, or corms, from the size of a pea to 
that of a hazel-nut, will be formed during the growing season. 
These small bulbs, if planted out in the open garden in rich, 
light soil in March, will give strong flowering-plants the same 
season, so that flower-spikes are obtained within two years of 
cross-fertilising the flowers. . The Gladiolus is also propagated from 
the small bulblets produced at the base of the corms. A dozen 
or more of these may be produced from one bulb, and they 
soon grow into a flowering size. 

G 

f 



82 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



In order to grow this handsome garden favourite well, the 
ground requires preparation, and a light sandy soil is best. If 
the soil is heavy, it must be well drained, and some road- 
or river-sand spread thickly over the surface, and lightly 
forked in. At one time I grew several thousands of the finer 
Gladioli varieties (seedlings and the best French sorts to name), 




Fig. 42. — A Group of Florists' Gladioli. 



and the soil was always prepared by trenching deeply the previous 
autumn. I mixed up some cow- and stable-manure in equal 
proportions ; this was turned over two or three times, until the 
violent heat had abated, and the manure was half decayed. Two 
layers of this were worked in during the process of trenching, 
one layer at the depth of i8in., and another at 9in. This 
would be the maximum depth. Sometimes the greatest depth 



ON florists' flowers. 



83 



would be i5in., and the lesser 6in. I liked to have the ground 
prepared not later than October. 

During winter and early spring, when the surface is dry, I 
lightly fork it over. By the first week in ]\Iarch the ground is 
usually in good condition to plant out the first lot of corms. 
Drills as for Peas, i4in. apart, are drawn, and the bulbs, or 
corms, planted from Sin. to i2in. asunder, according to their size. 
The base of the bulb is placed about 4in. below the surface of 
the ground, some dry, clean, river- or silver-sand is put under 
and over each, and the drill filled in again. The ground is 
often in a wet condition when the time arrives for planting-out ; 
if this is the case, I still draw the drills, and use dry sand ; but 
the drill is filled up with some dry soil, usually siftings from the 
potting-shed. This gives the corms a good chance to start. 

A fresh lot of corms should be planted every two weeks until 
the end of May, and this will give a succession of blossom until 
the end of the season. The plants soon appear above ground if 
the weather is favourable, and as soon as ever the rows of plants 
are discernible the Dutch hoe must be run through them to 
lighten the ground and destroy weeds. I use the hoe even if 
no weeds are to be seen. When the plants show that the 
flower-spikes are developing, sticks should be put to them to 
prevent their toppling over. When dry weather sets in, water 
must be applied freely, and the surface mulched with well-decayed 
stable-manure to prevent evaporation. The object is to obtain 
spikes of the greatest length possible and flowers of the highest 
quality. 

Gladioli are exceedingly well adapted for cutting to place in 
rooms, if the spike is cut when the first four or six blossoms have 
opened : the remainder of the flowers will open in the house. 
I have cut scores of spikes, and placed them in bottles of 
water, arranging them in the greenhouse or conservatory. The 
bottles are kept out of sight, behind plants with green foliage, 
but which do not happen to be in flower. Gladioli have the 
best effect if their own foliage is used. 

A few of the very choicest varieties must also be selected to 
save seed from, and they must be cross-fertilised. This is easily 
done. The seed-bearing parent must be selected, and before 
the flowers are half open the anthers pulled oft" with the fingers. 
When the flowers are fully expanded, the pollen from some 
superior variety should be taken when the flowers are also fully 
developed, and the stigma of the seed-bearer touched. This 

G 2 



84 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING'. 



should be done on successive days, until the entire spike has 
been cross-fertihsed. 

I have tried growing the Gladiolus in flower-pots, but do not 
recommend this method, as it is rather troublesome, and not 
very satisfactory as to results. I have had considerable experi- 
ence in purchasing new varieties of Gladiolus, and had always 
to make up my mind for some losses. The plants would 
sometimes die off in a manner not to be accounted for, and 
sometimes when the blossoms were just on the point of 
opening. In the year 1875, quite half of a collection of 
Gladiolus of considerable value died off. It is very annoying to 
lose valuable plants in this way ; but it is owing to a con- 
siderable extent to insufficiently decayed manure coming into 
contact with the roots ; and as seedlings — ^at least to the extent 
of fifty per cent. — are as good as the parents, and a hundred or 
more plants can be obtained from one spike, it seems foolishness 
to spend money on expensive named varieties. It would not 
serve any useful purpose to give a long list of named varieties ; 
this must be left for the "Appendix." Any good seedsman 

could supply a dozen or more of 
the best sorts in the season. I 
advise amateurs to get a dozen 
of the best, and raise seedlings 
from them. The seedlings, alter 
flowering for two or three seasons, 
have a tendency, as well as the 
purchased named varieties, to 
degenerate. 

The leaves of the Gladiolus 
remain green till very late in the 
autumn, but they should be lifted 
from the middle to the end of 
October. As they are forked out 
of the ground, cut the stalk off 
close to the crown, shake off the 
adherent soil, saving the small bulblets (Fig. 43), or "spawn," 
clustering round the base of the parent corm, spread the corms 
out to dry in an airy place, and when well dried, store in boxes 
or bags until planting time; but they must not be exposed to frost. 

The Royal Horticultural Society, the Crystal Palace Company, 
and other leading societies, gave me a score or more first class 
certificates for my seedling Gladioli ; but they degenerated under 




Fig. 43. — Gladiolus Corm, 
SHOWING Method of 
Increase. 



ON FLORISTS FLOWERS. 



85 



my own care, and I never thought it desirable to introduce 
them to the public, and all have passed out of existence. In 
some soils the conditions seem more favourable. ]\Iessrs. Burrell, 
of Cambridge, and ]\Iessrs. Kelway, of Langport, grow the 
Gladiolus successfully, and both firms seem able to place their 
seedlings on the market. At any rate, careful cultivation is 
necessary to ensure success. 

The Ranunculus [Ra^iimciiliis asiaticus). 

A charming garden flower, and one of the old-time favourites. 
When Parkinson published " The Garden of Pleasant Flowers," 
in 1629, he mentions only one double variety, which he terms 




Fig. 44. — Raxuxculuses ix Bed. 

the "double red Crowfoot of Asia." When Rea published his 
"Flora," in 1676, the Asiatic Ranunculus had become a general 
favourite. Parkinson's double red stands at the top of Rea's list 
of named varieties. After describing this old variety, Rea adds, 
" There are now several other nobler sorts of Ranunculus of 
Asia, with gallant double flowers, much excelling this old kind 
described, &:c., &c." Scarlet and yellow were at this time the 
prevailing colours ; and some scarlet with yellow stripes. Suc- 
ceeding generations of gardeners improved the form of the 
Ranunculus, by raising seedlings, and not only so, but the rich 
and varied colours obtained were truly charming. These were 



86 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



white, yellow, maroon, scarlet, crimson, and olive, with other 
flowers edged, striped, spotted, and mottled ; and here the greatest 
improvement obtained in the Ranunculus was by a clergyman, 
the Rev. Joseph Tyso, of Wallingford, in Berkshire. He effected 
quite a revolution in this flower, obtaining not only the most 
varied shades of colour, but also perfection of form. 

CuLiVATiON. — Like most florists' flowers, the Ranunculus 
is easily raised from seeds, which, of course, must be saved from 
the very best varieties. The flowers intended to bear seed must 
be fertilised, and also supported by small sticks. When the 
seed is ripe, it should gathered and dried in an airy room. Mr. 
Tyso sowed his seed in October or January, and placed the seed- 
pans in a garden-frame ; under favourable conditions it ger- 
minated in four or five weeks. Air should be admitted freely to 
the frames, and early in May the seed-pans or boxes must be 
placed out in the open garden, where they can be carefully 
watered until the leaves decay. About the middle of July the 
small seedling tubers must be taken out of the soil, and -dried 
in an airy room, not in the sun. After being dried they may be 
placed in a box in dry sand. They should be planted in the 
first week of March following, and they will flower most pro- 
fusely the following season in June, the second season after 
sowing the seed. The seed should be sown thinly and evenly, 

and be just covered with soil. 

Ranunculus roots can be obtained from any 
seedsman; they are usually priced at a cheap 
rate in the bulb catalogues — a hundred tubers 
can be obtained for three or four shillings. 
As I wrote twenty years ago, " There is 
no garden so small but might have space for 
a small bed (Fig. 44), or so large but that 
this modest flower might charm some quiet 
nook with its presence." Many persons pur- 
chase a stock of tubers, but fail to grow them 
owing to careless planting or planting in 
unsuitable soil. The tubers are of small 
size, and do not succeed unless they are 
planted at an uniform depth. A good medium clayey loam is 
suitable, and the tubers should he planted early in March, when 
the soil is in good working condition. Drills should be drawn 
i^in. deep and 4in. apart. Some fine sand should be sprinkled 
in the drills, and the roots (Fig. 45) pressed gently into the 




Fig. 45.— Ranun- 
culus Root. 



ON florists' flowers. 



87 



soil, about 2in. apart, and some sand placed over their crowns. 
The drills should be filled with fine sandy soil. As the leaves 
show above ground they will lift the soil with them, and as this 
is also loosened by the action of frost, it is a good plan to go 
over the bed and gently press the tubers into the ground with 
the fingers They must be kept clear of weeds, and as soon 
as dry weather sets in, the surface of the ground may be 
mulched with decayed manure, and water supplied between the 
rows, taking care not to wet the leaves. Ranunculuses require 
no other attention. The old florists used to fix an awning over 
the beds to protect the blossoms from rain and too much sunshine. 
Water must be withheld as soon as the flowers open. When 
flowers and leaves decay, the tubers should be taken up and 
stored in a dry place. 

The florist's standard in this, as in all other flowers, is 
smoothness and breadth of petal. A perfect flower would 
represent half a globe, not less than 2in. in diameter at the base. 
The petals should be sufficient to quite fill up the centre, and 
whether there are two colours in the flower or one only, they 
must be clear and distinct. 

The Polyanthus {Primula acaidis). 

Like the Auricula, the Polyanthus winds itself round the 
aff"ections of those who cultivate it. Sixty or seventy years ago 
the Polyanthus was esteemed as a florists' flower, and many 
beautiful varieties were in cultivation. The gardeners of that 
day worked up to a standard of excellence of their own, and 
grew only such kinds as are now^ known as Laced Polyanthus, 
though this term was then unknown. 

Polyanthuses were very carefully cultivated as show flowers, 
and some of the varieties have come down to us, evidencing 
that they must have possessed considerable vigour of constitution. 
Some of them are still grown, and I have before me a list of 
the very best varieties which were grown about 1836 as exhibition 
flowers. One of them, Burnard's Formosa, was much esteemed, 
and a coloured plate of it was given in 1834, although I have 
never seen a truss with anything like such good blossoms. Other 
varieties were George the Fourth, Pearson's Alexander (this fine 
variety was raised by the grandfather of the Brothers Pearson, 
of Chilwell, Notts.), Invincible, Prince Regent, Lord Crewe, Bang 
Europe, Princess, Countess, Lord John Russell, Commander-in- 
Chief, Lord Nelson, Othello, Beauty of Over, and Mary Ann. 



88 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Nearly all of them are now out of cultivation ; but a few of 
the best still exhibited in the north are George the Fourth, 
Alexander, Cheshire Favourite, Exile, William the Fourth, 
Formosa, Lancer, and John Bright. 

Cultivation. — This type of Polyanthus can be easily raised 
from seed, which should be sown in March in 6in. pots or 
seed-pans, in good sandy loam and leaf-mould. It will germinate 
freely in two or three weeks in a gentle hot-bed. The seed 
may also be sown in July, when it is gathered ; but at that time 
it is better to put the seed-pans in a shaded, cold frame. To 
obtain the best results, cross-fertilisation should be attended to ; 
and good parents must be selected, with all the best properties. 
They should also be very vigorous in constitution. Buck's 
George the Fourth is one of the most vigorous, and is generally 
well up in the properties. The parents ought also to possess 
well-formed flower-trusses, supported on stout flower-stems, 
about 5in. or 6in. in length. The "pip," or corolla, should be 
large, quite round, and smooth on the edges. The tube or 
throat of the corolla should be yellow, round, and well filled 
with anthers, and the ground colour of a rich dark red or a dark 
maroon. The centre ought to be a good yellow, and the margin 
of the same colour as the centre. The margin of the corolla is 
sometimes of a paler yellow than the centre, but this, in the 
eyes of the fancier, is a fault. The colours must be alike. 
The flowers should not be pin-eyed — that is, the stigma pro- 
truding from the eye, with the anthers down in the tube. 
The stigma should be down in the tube, with the anthers 
in the mouth of it. The anthers must be removed before 
the pollen is scattered, and the stigma can be dusted with 
some foreign pollen. 

The seed ripens in August, and ought to be sown as soon as 
possible, or it may be kept until the following spring ; any time 
between February and April will be found suitable. A slightly- 
shaded position should be chosen for the plants ; where Primroses 
grow well is also suitable for the Polyanthus, but the fancier 
delights in having his choice Polyanthuses grown and flowered in 
pots. They can be potted up in July, August, or September in 
good loam, with the addition of a fourth part decayed manure. 
The best position for them is on the north side of a wall or fence, 
where they get a little of the afternoon sun. The plants must be 
well attended to as regards watering, and the leaves should be 
kept free from red spider, which is really their desperate enemy 



ON florists' flowers. 



89 



in the south. In the colder dimate and moist atmosphere of 
some northern districts the pest is absent. 

Exhibitors remove all the trusses of blossom but one, which 
is shown in a finely-developed condition. One of the best 
of the northern cultivators of this choice favourite grows one 
set of plants in his garden in a good position planted out for 
one season, and pots them up the next, so that he has one small 
collection in pots and another planted out. Five-inch pots are 
suitable, and one crown only should be planted in each. 

The fancy Polyanthuses have been used as exhibition plants 
in recent years in the south of England ; indeed, the Laced 
varieties, as they are termed, have been excluded, owing to the 
difficulty of obtaining good plants. They were of such poor 
quality that the committee thought it best to omit them from 
the schedule of the National Society. 

The rich and varied colours of the border Polyanthuses have 
made them general favourites. Their culture is simpler, as 
they are grown out-of-doors all the time, and are only brought 
under glass for a few days before the exhibition, and potted up 
for a week or so. They like rich, deep soil to grow in, and if 
it is inclined to be clayey so much the better. 

The Hollyhock {Althcea rosed). 

In this we have one of the stateliest of garden flowers, and 
one, too, that has long been known to cultivation in this country, 
for it had taken on considerable variety of colour in Parkinson's 
time — 1629. Parkinson says: "The flowers were of divers 
colours, both single and double, as pure white and pale blush, 
almost like a white, and more blush, fresh and lively, of a rose 
colour ; scarlet, and a deeper red like crimson, and dark red 
like black blood." Parkinson adds: "They will reasonably well 
abide the winter." This remark shows that our old author had 
an intimate knowledge of the plants he wrote about, for in 
severe winters they suffer to a certain extent. Seedlings that 
have not flowered generally pass through the winter very well, 
but named varieties will not be quite safe in the open garden. 
Like most flowers of this class, which have been brought to a 
high state of perfection, the work has been accomplished by the 
untiring energy of individual florists, who have been enthusiastic 
in their efforts to improve the plants. Mr. Charles Baron, a 
shoemaker of Walden, produced some very beautiful quite double 
flowers about fifty years ago. Messrs. Paul, of Cheshunt, carried 



90 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



on the work so well begun by Mr. Baron. Chater, of Saffron 
Walden, also produced some very fine varieties. ]\Ir. John 
Laing, then at Dysart, now of the firm of John Laing and Sons, 
about forty years ago crossed the English varieties with high 
very double centres, and scarcely any guard-petals to the flowers, 
with the Scotch varieties, which had smaller centres and im- 
mense guard-petals. The result of this experiment was a 
considerable improvement on existing sorts. 

Soon after these great improvements, the Hollyhock disease 
appeared, a fungoid growth {Pucci?iia inalvacearu??i), which 
fastens upon the under-sides of the leaves, and quite destroys 
the softer part, leaving the naked venation, which is unsightly 
enough. There does not seem to be any cure for it. In certain 
positions in the garden no other flower is so effective as the 
Hollyhock, but it has not been so popular in recent years as it 
used to be, probably because of the difficulty in cultivating the 
plants owing to the disease. If a clean stock of Hollyhock 
plants can be obtained, say, in the autumn, they should be 
wintered in frames, and the pots plunged to the rims in cocoa- 
fibre or similar material. They are usually wintered in small-sized 
flower-pots, and in the spring repotted in 5in. and 6in. size. 
In April they may be planted out where they are to flower. 
The Hollyhock is a very gross-feeding plant, and requires a rich, 
deep soil. The ground ought always to be well-trenched and 
manured during the winter, and it is usually in good condition 
at planting time in the spring. Every practical gardener knows 
the importance of keeping the soil in good condition by 
trenching in the first place, and forking it over when dry enough 
at intervals. 

It is a good thing when putting out the plants to have at 
hand a barrow-load of good prepared compost, such as is used in 
the potting-shed : a little of it should be placed around the ball 
of the roots, as the plants are turned out of the pots ; this gives 
them a good start. A stout stick,, standing some 6ft. out of the 
ground, will be required, and it is best to put the sticks into the 
ground at once and plant the Hollyhocks up to them, fastening 
the stems to the sticks at the same time, in order that they 
may be safe. The plants soon start into rapid growth, and 
must be fastened to the sticks as growth progresses. As soon 
as dry weather sets in, the plants should be freely watered, 
and some decayed manure placed around the base to prevent 
evaporation. 



ON florists' flowers. 



91 



The Hollyhock fancier removes the lateral growths, so that the 
centre spike may be of splendid quality. These lateral growths 
are furnished both with eyes containing leaf buds, and with 
flower-buds. The leaf-buds, if cut out and inserted in small 
pots in sandy soil, will produce nice young plants. They 
should be treated much as vine eyes are. The small pots 
should be plunged -in a spent hot-bed, when the bud will, in a 
week or ten days, appear out of the soil. Great care must be 
taken in watering them at this stage, as they have considerable 
tendency to rot off ; but as the plants advance in growth and 
form roots, they should be potted on into large "sixties," and in 
these they will pass the winter, but must be potted on in the 
early spring months. 

Hollyhocks are also propagated in the spring by root-grafting, 
and by cuttings from growths obtained from the old stools. To 
obtain these the old plants should be lifted out of the ground 
in October, and planted in flower-pots from 6in. to Sin. in 
diameter ; there is no need to over-pot them. The plants may 
either be wintered in a garden-frame or in a cool greenhouse, 
and in February or March the cuttings will be ready. Each 
one should be taken with a sharp knife close to the main stem 
of the plant, and potted in " thumbs " in sandy soil. If the 
soil is moist, and the cuttings are placed in the propagating-frame 
of a forcing-house, they will require little or no water until roots 
are formed, and an over-supply of water might cause most of 
them to rot off at the base. They will soon start into growth if 
they do well, and must, of course, be inured to a more airy 
place as soon as possible. 

Root-grafting is merely the process of tying the shoot to a bit 
of Hollyhock root, after cutting the growth and the root much 
in the same way as ordinary whip-grafting of fruit-trees. Growths 
should be planted in small flower-pots, deep enough to leave the 
point of union just above the surface. These spring-propagated 
plants will flower rather later than those struck from eyes or in 
any other way in the autumn. 

Propagation from seed is much the easiest way to raise a stock 
of plants, and, of course, it is always best to save the seed from 
the very best varieties. Such plants should also be cross- 
fertilised, for if this is not done the seedlings produce flowers 
differing very little from the parent plant, most of them inferior 
in quality, but some equally good, and very few of them better. 
If the seed is sown soon after it is gathered and dried, and the 



92 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



plants are preserved through the winter in garden-frames, they 
will flower strongly the following season ; but if the seed is 
obtained during the winter, it is as well to sow it in May 
or June, planting the seedlings, when strong enough, where they 
are to flower. Seedlings when planted out require exactly the 
same treatment as the named varieties. 

In hot, dry seasons, the leaves of Hollyhocks become much 
damaged by red spider, which attacks the under-sides of the 
leaves. The best way to destroy it is to syringe freely, directing 
the water to the under-sides of the leaves. This may be done 
frequently by the use of clean rain-water, and the mechanical 
action of the water will dislodge the pest. Tobacco-water 
effectually destroys it. 

I might give a list of names of the best Hollyhocks, but 
most of the named sorts of a few years back seem to have 
gone out of cultivation. In the "Appendix," however, some of 
the best and most recent varieties are enumerated. 




Viola tricolor. 




Ix the whole of the Floral World there is no plant so widely 
grown and so much admired as the Rose, which justly merits 
the title of " Queen of Flowers " bestowed upon it. Xo garden 
is complete without it, and its character is so accommodating 
that in hot or cold positions, and in all sorts of soils, some 
of the many species and varieties will thrive and produce 
fragrant and beautiful flowers. Quite a mass of literature has 
been published on this favourite flower ; but here it is only 
intended to deal with the most prominent and useful kinds, 
describing, concisely, their culture, and the purposes for which 
they are most suitable. 

Cultivation Outside. — -Propagation is effected by means 
of seeds, cuttings, and budding : while, occasionally, grafting 
is practised : but the first-named methods are the best and 
most trustworthy. 

Seeds. — Not only are stocks raised from seed, but likewise 
many of the hardy and common kinds, like Rosa rugosa. New 
varieties, in many instances, have originated from seedlings, and 
by careful hybridising much more will probably be done to 
introduce further sterling sorts. Birds are particularly fond of 
the hips, and as these must be quite ripe to obtain good seed, 
it will, in some districts, be necessary to cover the bushes with 
nets to protect them. Immediately the seeds are ripe they 
should be sown in pans or boxes that are well-drained 
and filled with a light, rich, sandy soil, covering them lightly 
with compost, giving a good watering, and placing the pans or 
boxes in a gentle heat. At one time germination will quickly 



94 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



follow ; at another it may be months before it takes place, and 
therefore in such cases it is advisable not to be in any hurry 
to throw away the contents of the boxes. In the spring, the 
seedlings may either be planted out in nursery-beds, about i2in. 
apart, or potted separately into " sixties," and afterwards potted 
on as often as may prove necessary, to be finally planted 
out in October. 

Cuttings. — All Roses root freely from cuttings if put in at the 
proper season, and the most certain and best time is when the 
wood is about half-ripened. Young wood of this description, 
about 5in. or 6in. in length, and with only the lowest leaf 
removed, put in firm, sandy soil, 2in. or 3in. deep, in a close 
frame or hand-light, and kept shaded from the sun, will root 
very quickly, and make nice plants before winter. Another 
mode is to put the cuttings in a house or frame with a nice 
bottom-heat, keeping them moist and shaded. These form roots 
more rapidly than those put in a cold close frame or hand-light. 
When the rooting process is completed air should be admitted 
and gradually increased until the plants will bear full exposure. 
If the plants are wanted for forcing purposes, they should be 
potted, and grown on vigorously for a year or so ; their strength 
will thus be increased, and a moderate supply of fine flowers will 
be produced. Another method is to put in cuttings in October 
or immediately after all the foliage has fallen, placing them in 
firm, sandy soil, in a shady position, and covering with a frame 
or hand-light. These cuttings may be 6in. or Sin. long, and 
inserted about half their length, and, unless the winter is 
exceptionally severe, a good proportion will grow and form roots 
in the following spring. 

Stocks. — ^Very much in favour of the Rose on its own roots 
could be said, as, for instance, the absence of suckers, and the 
growth from below the surface after all wood above the soil has 
been killed by a severe winter ; but as the process is too slow 
in many cases, and not always the best in others, a consideration 
of what really are the best stocks may be useful. Where vigour 
is required there is no question that the seedling Briar, or 
common Dog Rose, is the best, and many nurserymen now 
largely employ this stock, alike for standard, half-standard, 
climbing, and bush Roses. In the winter months, men collect 
stout, vigorous Briars, of suitable growth, from the hedgerows, 
and sell the stocks thus obtained to nurserymen. These are 
planted in good ground, and budded the following season. As 



ON ROSES. 



95 



a rule, those stocks with the largest thorns and hooked down- 
wards are the best, making the most vigorous growth, and bearing 
the finest flowers ; and further, they have the longest life. Some 
of the Briar stocks are covered with a multitude of short, sharp 
prickles : these are seldom satisfactory for many years, and do 
not produce good flowers, or very many in quantity. 

For dwarf plants, to be grown in beds out in the open, or in 
pots or beds under glass, there is considerable difference of 
opinion as to whether the Briar or the Manetti is the better 
stock. After many years' trials of the two kinds, both under 
glass and outside, it has been forced upon us that the Briar is 
the better, producing more vigorous and floriferous plants, as 
well as cleaner and finer flowers than plants similar in age 
and treatment worked upon the Manetti. In winters of extra- 
ordinary severity the Briar is much hardier, and is rarely killed 
outright, while whole beds on the Manetti have been absolutely 
destroyed. No doubt some few varieties do succeed better 
on the Manetti, but, as a general rule, the Briar, or common 
Dog Rose, particularly if seedling Briars, is the best stock 
for Roses generally, in whatever form they may be grown 
and cultivated. 

Budding. — This interesting operation should be performed at 
the end of June, or as early in July as possible, when the bark 
will lift readily, or " run " from the wood. A very good test 
is to try if the pricks will break off freely 
without pulling away any of the bark ; if 
so, the bark, as a rule, will be raised easily 
from the wood. The same rule also applies 
to the wood and bark of the Rose from 
which the bud is taken. The bud should 
be plump, and the wood fairly hard and 
mature. With a sharp knife cut out the 
shoot, with about ^in. of bark above and 
below the bud (Fig. 46, a), and not quite 
half-way through ; then gently detach or 
draw out the wood from the bark (Fig. 
46, b), and insert at once on the stock in ^ 
a T-shaped cut under the bark, tying it firmly with raffia or 
matting to bind the bark of the stock over that of the bud. 
Showery weather is the best for all budding operations, as not 
only is there a full flow of sap, feeding the bud and keeping it 
plump, but the shade more or less present in such weather is 





Fig. 46. — A, Bud with 
Wood intact ; b, 
Bud with Wood 

REMOVED. 



96 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



far more favourable to a union than hot, dry weather and 
blazing sun-heat. If the buds begin to grow and form shoots, 
the ties should be loosened to allow of the natural swelling 
that is taking place ; but if the bud does not start, the ties 
need not be interfered with. 

Other methods of propagation are by layers, by division, and 
by suckers, but neither of these can be recommended. 

Soil. — Although the Rose will grow practically everywhere, good 
drainage is essential to get really healthy plants and the best 
results ; therefore, if the soil is not porous, or is water-logged, the 
defects should be remedied by the addition of sand, road- 
scrapings, or similar material, while drains ought to be put in 
to carry away any excess of water at the roots. A good, rich, 
and rather heavy loamy soil is excellent for all classes of Roses, 
but, unfortunately, such ground is far from being always avail- 
able ; consequently, the best use must be made of the soil at 
hand. If the soil is naturally sandy or gravelly, and quickly parts 
with moisture, the addition of clay or marl, and manuring with 
cow-dung, will prove highly beneficial. On the other hand, if it 
is very heavy and tenacious, strawy-manure and other ingredients 
that will make the soil more open in texture is advisable, 
trenching the ground 2ft. deep when adding the above. This 
should be done some little time before planting, viz., in August 
or September, and the planting should be completed by the 
middle or end of October. If Roses are planted at the time 
mentioned, they root at once, and become semi-established, 
bearmg a good crop of fine flowers the following year ; the only 
exception is in very cold exposed positions or situations. Tea 
and Hybrid Tea Roses should not be planted in October, but at 
the end of February. If planted at the first-named season, and 
a hard winter follows, they would most probably succumb to 
the frost, and the cost and labour of planting would be wasted. 
If the soil is good, and has been manured well some time prior 
to planting, no manure should be placed with the soil that 
comes in direct contact with the roots ; but if the ground is 
hungry and poor, and has not been enriched for some time, a 
little thoroughly-decayed manure mixed with the soil is beneficial. 
On no account should raw fresh manure be mixed therewith 
when planting, or come into contact with roots, as it would act 
like poison to them. If the planting is done in the autumn or 
early spring, a mulch of strawy-manure is always advisable, as 
it acts as a protection against frost in winter and drought in 



ON ROSES. 



97 



summer ; it also acts as a gentle fertiliser, and encourages the 
roots to keep near the surface. 

Manures. — -The question of manures is a somewhat vexed 
one, but all good growers acknowledge that one must be guided 
by the soil and the situation. On light soils of all kinds it will 
be found that basic slag, at the rate of 20z. to the square 
yard, is not only fertilizing, but also renders the soil denser 
and more holding in character. The effect is not so apparent in 
the first as in the second year, and for that reason it is advisable 
to apply a dressing immediately the planting is done. Another 
very fine manure for Roses on both heavy and light soils 
is 2 0Z. of superphosphate to each square yard, applied at 
the end of March, This manure produces a sturdy, flori- 
ferous growth, with much substance in the flowers. If the 
soil is very light, muriate of potash may be added, at the 
rate of ^oz. to each 20z. of superphosphate. On sandy soils 
resting on gravel, kainit is excellent if applied at the end of 
April or early in May, at the rate of 2 0z. to 30Z. per square 
yard : this m.anure not only fertilises, but also retains moisture 
in the soil all through the summer months. On heavy soils few- 
manures are equal to a liberal application of fine bone-meal, 
say at the rate of 30Z. to each square yard, and very lightly 
pricking this in with a fork early in i\pril, or immediately 
after the Roses have all been pruned. 

Farmyard manure is well known as a complete plant-food, 
especially if it is from different kinds of animals, and is 
all mixed together in a heap, where it is not exposed to the 
action of the weather. A mulch of this applied about 3in. thick 
just after pruning is of great value, not only for the food 
supplied, but also for conserving moisture during the hot 
summer months. Liquid manure in a diluted form is one of 
the finest stimulants to Roses, especially for the production of 
exhibition flowers, but sewage is not so beneficial, being apt to 
induce mildew and other evils. A good pure guano (using loz. 
to each square yard of surface) is also of immense service in 
developing fine blossoms for exhibition or in giving a great 
crop ; but, like all concentrated manures, it must be used 
with caution, and not allowed to fall on the shoots or foliage, or 
burning will follow. 

Arrangement. — Although Roses are such universal favourites, 
and excite more admiration than any other hardy flower, we 
frequently see them planted with an utter disregard to 

H 

: .■. 
) > 
> > > 

' , ' 



98 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



effect or suitable position. One of the commonest mistakes is 
planting Roses in beds mixed with trees or shrubs ; in most 
cases the more delicate Rose simply drags out a miserable 
existence. The old vigorous climbing Roses do succeed admir- 
ably amongst shrubs, but to expect Hybrid Perpetuals, Teas, 
and some of the dwarf-growing ones to answer is not quite 
reasonable. 

Another mistake is overcrowding both dwarfs and standards, 
an error frequently fallen into by amateurs. They may appear 
to have plenty of space at the time of planting, but in the 
course of a year or so it is found that the growth is very 
congested and interlaced, when it is impossible for it to get 
properly matured ; and if a hard winter follows, the major part 
of the plants are killed. Insect pests and fungoid attacks are also 
encouraged by thick planting, and are, moreover, extremely diffi- 
cult to eradicate under such conditions. 

In many gardens there is a border with a background 
consisting of a wall, fence, or living hedge, and, providing 
the border is of fair width, say 6ft. to loft., nothing could be 
better for producing a fine effect. If a wall is at the back, 
fruit-trees can be grown thereon in the usual manner, 
and about 3ft. from the wall can be planted climbing 
Roses, trained up rustic stakes, at a distance of loft. to 15ft. 
apart, selecting such varieties as Crimson Rambler, Fortune's 
Yellow (Syn. Beauty of Glazenwood), the Dawson Rose, a 
vigorous variety bearing great bunches of pink flowers, Alister 
Stella Gray, a charming yellow variety and an abundant blossomer, 
and Thalia, a lovely white Rose. All these do famously on 
poles or long stakes. If more varieties are required, almost 
any of the climbing sorts will answer. Between these climbing 
Roses tall standards may be planted, and if these have some- 
what weeping heads, they will present a lovely appearance 
when in blossom. Most of the moderate-growing climbing 
varieties lend themselves admirably to this method of culture, 
and flower profusely. The back row being thus composed of 
tall plants, the next row may be made of half-standards and 
the more vigorous-growing varieties in bush form, planting them 
alternately at a distance of 4ft. apart, with a judicious arrange- 
ment as to colour, and selecting those that are well known to 
be free-flowering amongst Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas, and 
strong-growing Teas. The front of the border can be filled 
with a good selection of dwarf Teas and Hybrid Perpetuals, and 



ON ROSES. 



99 



if, as stated, the colours of the flowers are nicely blended, 
such a border will prove one of the entrancing features of the 
garden, affording a continuous succession of flowers from early 
summer until late autumn; in fact, Roses will be to the fore 
until the end of October, or early in November in many 
seasons. 

Where a large border similar to the above is out of the 
question, and beds on grass have to be relied upon, there is 
nearly always the risk of overcrowding, because, as the space is 
so limited, an attempt is usually made to get in as many fine 
varieties as possible, and thus overdo it. In every such case it is 
advisable to put in the plants not closer than 3ft. apart each 
way, allowing each i8in. from the side of the bed or verge. 
Unless the varieties are very vigorous, this will not make a very 
crowded bed. 

Magnificent effects are produced by planting strong-grown ng 
sorts like Gloire de Dijon, Mrs. Paul, Cheshunt Hybrid, Climbing 
Souvenir de la Malmaison, W. A. Richardson, Celine Forestier, 
Crimson Rambler, and many others. If these are allowed to 
make long shoots, and in the spring the beds are liberally 
manured, and the shoots pegged down their full length or nearly 
50, they will throw out growths at almost every eye the whole 
length of the stems, and produce a really splendid mass of 
colour. The beds may be all of one colour, which seems most 
popular in many gardens, or they can be arranged to afford 
a combination of colour. In the latter case care must be 
exercised in pegging down the shoots, so that when in flower 
the colours produce the desired effect. A little carelessness in 
the pegging-down of the shoots will mar what would otherwise 
be a really glorious appearance when in full blossom. 

Arches or arcades of Roses in gardens have a charm that 
has found more favour in the past than at present. The 
covering of arbours with Roses was far commoner years ago, and 
the plan might very well be adopted again now. In the hot 
summer months these Rose-covered arches or arbours are 
delightful, and one of the most frequented parts of the garden. 
That capital variety. Crimson Rambler, is a gem for such 
positions, as it revels in places where the air can play freely all 
round it. Aimee Vibert and Reve d'Or are also excellent 
arch Roses, and there are many others. 

In case any of the varieties of Teas are thought to be tender, 
and unable to stand the rigour of our winters, common bracken 

H 2 



lOO 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



fern tied in the heads of standards early in winter, and 
removed in spring, will afford the needed protection. With 
dwarfs it should be thrown lightly on the plants, but removed 
in mild weather, if it is seen that growth is commencing 
prematurely. 

Cultivation Under Glass. — The forcing or cultivation of 
Roses under glass for market is now become an important 
industry, and in most large establishments they are grown more 
or less extensively either in pots or in prepared borders. In the 
latter case they are usually trained up over the roof. By the 
aid of good, light, well-heated houses, and a sufficiently large 
stock of plants, it is by no means difficult to have choice Tea 
and Hybrid Tea Roses all through the winter months. Hybrid 
Perpetuals are very much more difficult to get in flowering 
condition in mid-winter, and it is seldom worth the trouble to try 
to obtain blossom from them before the beginning of March. 

When purchasing Roses in pots with a view to forcing, 
it is always the more economical and satisfactory plan to buy 
strong plants early in September. If the pots they are in 
are full of roots, they can be potted on at once into a little 
larger size. In fact, it is always best to do any repotting in. 
the early autumn : the plants not only take possession of the 
new compost at once, but start much stronger and more freely 
nto growth than is the case with plants potted immediately 
before forcing is commenced, and more and finer flowers 
are produced. A very suitable compost is three parts good 
fibrous loam and one part well-decayed manure, with a 
6in. pot-full of bone-meal added to each barrow-load of compost. 
The drainage must be free and open, and the soil made fairly- 
firm when potting : if rammed too hard the growth is somewhat 
stunted, and if potted too loosely the evil is just as much the 
other way ; therefore, the happy medium should be aimed at. 
In bright weather a syringing overhead will be of considerable 
benefit in assisting root-action after potting. Watering, again, 
plays a very important part in Rose-growing : care must 
always be taken to not over-water the plants ; at the same 
time they must not be allowed to suffer for want of mois- 
ture. Neglect or carelessness in these matters is sure to 
end in failure. 

In starting to force the Rose, the temperature should not be 
more than Sodeg. to commence with, falling sdeg. at night. As 
growth is made, the temperature should be gradually raised tO' 



ON ROSES. 



lOI 



about 6^deg. or so, ventilating when the wind and weather 
are favourable. Weak liquid manure is beneficial once or twice 
a week during the period of growth, and all very weak or useless 
wood is best cut clean out, thus throwing more energy into the 
strong flowering shoots. 

The pruning of Tea Roses inside differs from that ot the 
same varieties grown outside ; the former should not be severely 
pruned or cut back hard, but all strong, vigorous growths left 
nearly their full length, and all weak wood entirely cut out. 
If the growth is regulated while growing, very little pruning, 
however, will be necessary, beyond the shortening back 
of strong shoots. When the plants are grown in pots, they 
should be placed outside in May, and very carefully watered 
and otherwise looked after ; the wood will thus be thoroughly 
matured, and, when required for forcing again, such trees 
will respond by making a healthy and strong start into growth, 
followed by a profusion of large and beautifully-formed flowers. 

Tea Roses ( Rosa indica odorata ). 

These richly-scented and lovely flowers are justly appreciated 
wherever grown, and, fortunately, are more fully understood, and 
more extensively planted, than they have been in the not very 
distant past. They were first introduced from China in 1810, 
and termed Tea Roses, by reason of their tea scent. For 
convenience, the class amy be divided into two sections. Dwarf 
and Climbing, the Hybrid Tea class being dealt with under a 
separate heading. 

Taking the Dwarf section first, we have some glorious varieties 
for either planting in beds or forcing under glass. When planted 
in beds, pruning should be hard, i.e., the young shoots ought to be 
cut down nearly to their base about the end of March or early in 
April, and the beds mulched with some good farmyard manure. 
No further attention will be necessary beyond keeping down 
insect and fungoid pests, and the removal of decayed flowers. 
Attention to these points will ensure a continuance of blos- 
som from early in June to the end of October. Early in 
November, the centre of the plants ought to be covered 
with cocoa-nut fibre to the depth of 6in. The material will 
serve to protect the heart from injury., by frost, though all 
growths above the covering material may be killed. This 
protecting material should not be removed until the time 
arrives for pruning, - as late frosts of sufficient severity may 



I02 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



come that would seriously cripple, if not kill, the parts that 
had been protected all the winter. 

If very fine flowers for exhibition are required, the buds 
must be thinned to one flower on each shoot, and all very 
weak wood cut out. Extra fine blossoms are thus obtained, 
but if quantity of flower is desired, there is no necessity to thin 
the buds. 

In the following list of varieties, a brief description of the 
merits of each is noted, not only as regards the colour of the 
flower, but also as to habit, suitability for bedding, and other pur- 




FiG. 47. — Rose Catherixe Mermet. 



poses. Alba Rosea (Syn. IMadame Bravy), flowers white, with pink 
centre; moderate vigour. Andre Schwartz, red: the plant forces 
well, and is very vigorous. Anna Olivier, beautiful flesh colour; 
fine habit ; excellent for beds or exhibition. Bridesmaid, deep 



ox ROSES. 



and sturdy 



pink : a magnificent variety for all purposes : very vigorous. 
Catherine ]Mermet (Fig. 47), soft rose: one of the very best; 
a free and strong grower. Comtesse de Xadaillac, flesh colour, 
blended with apricot-yellow : large and fine ' form, 
growth. Devoniensis. white, shaded with 
yellow: fine form, and suitable for all 
purposes. Dr. Grill, rose, shaded 
with bronze ; a splendid variety 
for bedding. Elise Fugier, 
lemon-white: very pretty; 
good for forcing, bedding, 
and exhibition. Ernest 
]Metz, salmon -pink : a 
grand flower, and the 
plant of good habit. 
Ethel Brownlow, salmon- 
pink: vigorous grower, and 
very floriferous. Etoile de 
Lyon, sulphur-yellow : ex- 
cellent for beds or pots. 
Francois Dubreuil : this 
is considered the best 
crimson Tea in cultiva- 
tion. Francisca Kru^er, 
bronzy-yellow ; a very tine 
varietv for either indoors 
or outside. Golden Gate, 
pale orange : good form ; 
effective for beds. Hon. 

Edith Gifford, white, tinted with pink : splendid variety in 
all respects. Innocente Pirola, light fawn; beautiful flower; 
of vigorous habit. Jean Ducher, yellow : large blossoms of 
good shape ; line for beds or forcing. 2^Iadame Hoste, pale 
lemon : remarkablv free flowerinsr, and of good habit. Marie 
Van Houtte (Fig. 48), yellowish-white, tinted with rose : a 
large and lovely variety : vigorous. Xiphetos (Fig. 49\. a 
splendid white of fine form : it forces well, and is one of 
the best for growing under glass. Perle des Jardins, canary- 
yellow ; a very fine flower, of sturdy habit. .Souvenir de 
S. A. Prince, pure white : a large, massive flower, and an 
excellent grower. White Perle, white ; very floriferous, and 
excellent for bedding. 




F.G. 48. — Rose :Mabje Vax Houtte. 



T04 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Climbing Tea Roses. 

In every garden these are almost always found in some form 
or other ; their suitability for training against walls, up pillars, 
over arches, and also up the roofs of glass-houses, and for 
other purposes, has given them a position from which it is 
improbable that they will ever be displaced. Occasionally 
complaints are heard that climbing Tea Roses which have been 
planted against the walls of a house refuse to grow. In the 
majority of instances this is caused by the projecting eaves of the 
house throwing off all moisture, the roots thus becoming almost 
dust-dry. In such cases copious supplies of water should be 

given during the 
summer months, 
until the roots 
have extended 
sufficiently wide 
to be able to 
dispense with 
this assistance. An- 
other cause of failure 
is the exhaustion ot 
all plant-food available . 
for the roots. In the 
open beds the plants 
mulched with rich 
manure, but this is rarely 
done with trees trained 
against the walls of a 
residence, nor is it desir- 
able, as the manure would 
be unsightly; but diluted 
liquid manure can be gi\en freely 
early in the morning, and any un- 
pleasant smell wnll have passed away 
before the family are about. A very 
good manure, devoid of all objection- 
able smell, is 2oz. of superphosphate, 2oz. of fine bone-meal, and 
loz. of nitrate of soda, applied early in May, to each square yard; 
this will act beneficially on both growth and flowers. 

With climbing Tea Roses, hard pruning is not advisable ; all 
the strong, vigorous shoots should be allowed to remain nearly 




Fig. 49. — Rose A^iphetos. 



ox ROSES. 



their full length, and if bent in the form of an arch every bud 
will start into growth, and produce one or more flowers. All 
weak wood should be cut 
out, and any congestion 
•of growth prevented by so 
arranging the wood that 
each shoot has room for 
proper development. 

The varieties enume- 
rated here are a few of 
the best, and are practi- 
cally sure to give satis-, 
faction wherever planted. 
Belle I ^yonnaise (Fig. 50), 
•deep lemon : a free and 
vigorous grower. Climbing 
Devoniensis, white : a verv 
-strong grower : excellent. 
Climbing Niphetos, pure 
white : a rampant grower : 
R great acquisition. Dr. 
Rouges, deep red ; pretty 
in the bud state : of 
vigorous habit. Gloire de 
Dijon, yellow, shaded with 
•copper; an old favourite, 

and still one of the best. Henriette de Beauvau, yellow: very 
floriferous, and of free habit. ^ladame Berard (P^ig. 51), pale 
salmon : a grand late season variety. ^Monsieur Desir, crimson- 
red : well worthy of a place for its colour : vigorous. 

Hybrid Tea = scented Roses. 

This section mis^ht be termed a new one. It has been evolved 
by crossing the Tea and Hybrid Perpetual Roses, and a magni- 
ficent and valuable class has resulted. In some cases the 
progeny have a preponderance of Tea character and perfume, 
and in others the Hybrid Perpetual parentage is more marked : 
but in all the varieties there is considerable merit, the maiority 
being hardy, robust, and floriferous. Planting may be done in 
October, as alreadv advised, but it is safer to defer it until 
February, and the trees should be mulched to promote good 
health and vigour. Pruning will depend to some extent on the 




Fig. 50. 



-Rose Bp:lle Lvoxxaise, 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



variety. For instance, Cheshunt Hybrid, being a climber, should 
not be pruned much, but be treated as climbers usually are : while 
such a variety as La France (now classed in this section) may 
be cut back rather severely if very large blossoms are desired. 




Fig. 51. — Rose Mad.-oie Bera^ld. 



Some of the finest bedding Roses are included in this clasSj. 
and though some of the varieties have loose open flowers when 
fully expanded, they are so handsome in the bud state, and pro- 
duce such a great quantity of flowers, that the beds are really 



ON ROSES. 



lO 



a very attractive feature in the garden. If planted in separate 
or mixed beds, 2ft. each way between the plants will prove 
a suitable distance, taking care 
varieties in the centre of the bed, 



to have the tallest-growing 
and the dwarfer ones at 
the margins. This not only makes it easier to get at the- 
plants, but also shows off their beauty better than if a tall 
plant is growing in front of a dwarf one. 

There are a comparatively large num- 
ber of varieties, and the followin.s: are a 
few that can be strongly recom- 
mended : Belle Siebriecht (Syn. 
Mrs. W. J. Grant), rosy-pink 
fine form ; hardv and 
free. Camoens, clear 
rose ; fine for beds, 
or useful as a bush. 
Captain Christy, flesh 
colour ; very large, 
hardy, vigorous, and a 
good bedder. Caroline 
Testout, rosy-salmon ; 
of fine form : larire and 
floriferous. Cheshunt 
Hybrid, cherry-carmine; 
climbing ; excellent for 
screens or pillars. 
Climbing Captain 
Christy ; a very vig- 
orous and hardy form 
of Captain Christy. 
Climbing Kaiserin 
Augusta Victoria, white : 
a splendid variety that 
promises to be a great 
acquisition to the climb- 
ing Roses. Danmark and Duchess of Albany are two distinct 
forms of La France, the former being remarkably dwarf, and the 
latter darker in colour. Grace Darling, white, shaded with rose; a 
magnificent variety for bedding, and very floriferous. Grand Due 
de Luxemberg, bright pink; this is another fine Rose for bedding, 
being free, hardy, and vigorous. Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, 
white; a splendid flower; free and good. La France (Fig. 52)^ 




Fig. s2. — Rose La Fraxce. 



Io8 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

•soft pink ; a well known and indispensable favourite. Madame 
Fernet Ducher, yellow, tinged with a darker shade ; this variety 
will become popular for bedding : vigorous habit. Marquise 
■de Salisbury, red semi-double flowers ; a useful bedding variety. 
Reine Marie Henriette, deep carmine, buds long, pointed, and 
handsome ; a valuable climbing variety. Souvenir de Madame 
Eugene Verdier and Souvenir de Madame Carnot are two 
■creamy-white flowered varieties of exceptional merit, and worthy 
■of a place in every garden, being vigorous, hardy-, and free- 
flowering. 

Exhibition Roses. 

With Roses for exhibition a good soil suitable for the growth 
of the plants in a vigorous state is essential ; if the land is 
naturally unsuitable it must be improved. A good sound loamy 
soil, rather heavy in character, is admirable, if well drained, for 
all classes ; but for Teas the soil may with advantage be made 
somewhat lighter. Again, the situation ought to be quite open, 
and fully exposed to the benefits of solar influences. It 
should be also far enough away from large forest trees to prevent 
shading, or robbery of plant-food by the roots of such. If 
planted within reach of these, their roots take possession of 
the bed or soil prepared for the Roses, and rapidly absorb 
the elements of plant-food to the detriment of the Roses, while 
any manures applied afterwards are simply wasted, as the roots 
of the trees quickly seize it, and aggravate the evil. 

There are various opinions as to the best stocks for the 
production of exhibition Roses : the general one seems decidedly 
in favour of the seedling briar for all sections. The Manetti is 
very suitable for a few varieties, as for instance, vigorous-growing 
sorts in the Hybrid Perpetual section, and also for a few of 
the Hybrid Teas. In the former section may be included the 
following, as succeeding well on the ^Nlanetti when budded 
below the ground level : Abel Carriere, Annie Wood, Baroness 
Rothschild, Beauty of Waltham, Centifolia Rosea, Countess ot 
Rosebery, Duchess de ]Morny, Duke of Connaught, Etienne 
Levet, Francois Michelon, John Hopper, INIadame Victor Verdier, 
Pride of Waltham, Senateur Vaisse, Ulrich Brunner, and Violette 
Bowyer. Amongst Hybrid Teas that answer on the Manetti are : 
Camoens, Captain Christy, Cheshunt Hybrid, Clara Watson, 
Grace Darling, La France, and Viscountess Folkestone. Most 
-of the Rose specialists in the trade sell the varieties on the 



ON ROSES. 



particular stock on which they succeed best, experience having- 
taught them which varieties require a particular stock. 

To have flowers up to exhibition form young plants are 
essential. These should be free in growth, clean, and judiciously- 
fed when the buds are formed, to give size of flower and petal, 
with good substance and perfect colour. Diluted liquid manure 
from the farm-yard, or loz. of good guano dissolved in igalL 
of water, has an immediate beneficial influence. Should the 
weather be showery, loz. of guano and loz. of superphosphate,, 
applied to each square yard, will quickly give assistance to 
the plants. lOz. of sulphate of ammonia dissolved in 2galls. of 
water aids materially in giving a good colour to the foliage and 
flower; but over-feeding must be avoided. Once a week 
will be often enough to apply any one of the above manures, 
which should be varied weekly. The early thinning of the 
buds is also of much importance. All buds, except one on 
each shoot, should be removed, retaining only the finest. It is 
a waste of energy and power to allow the flower-buds to swell 
to say half their normal size, and then cut- away the surplus, 
ones. To some extent it must reduce in quality the bud left ; 
it may be only a little, but when competition is close a very 
slight superiority in size and colour will give the winning points. 

All the most successful exhibitors pay the strictest attention 
to detail in culture and management, and also exercise good taste- 
in the arrangement of colour, &:c., when staging the blossoms. 
A flower to be fit for exhibition should possess size, perfect form, 
rich colour, and be quite fresh. A flower that is somewhat stale 
in colour, has damaged petals, or an open eye, is a great source 
of weakness in any stand. A few such in a really good collec- 
tion mar its appearance, and greatly minimise the exhibitor's 
chance of winning a prize. Much again depends upon the time 
of cutting the flowers for exhibition. The early morning is by 
far the best time, as the flowers are then fresh, moist, and 
keep their shape and beauty considerably longer than if cut 
in the m.iddle or afternoon of the day, as the petals are then 
liable to expand, and the flower often becomes loose after 
cutting. An excellent plan, adopted by many growers and 
exhibitors to keep the flowers fresh and good in form, is, 
immediately they are cut, to tie a soft piece of worsted 
or wool carefully round the flower-bud. This band or tie 
should not be tight, but simply passed once, or perhaps twice, 
round to keep the petals together and prevent further expansion. 



I lO 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



of the flower. Such ties remain until the last moment before 
leaving the exhibit for the judges. If tied with a loop, a large 
stand can be cleared of the ties in a few minutes. It need 
scarcely be stated that the flowers should have their stems placed 
in water at once after cutting, and be kept as cool as possible ; 
and when at the exhibition tent or hall the coolest spot avail- 
able should be chosen to give the final touches up. Good 
taste in the arrangement of the colours and the setting up of 
the flowers always carries weight with the judges, and if the 
■stand cannot be covered with nice green moss, it should be 
painted a pleasing green ; but moss always is best if clean, fresh, 
and green. If the flowers are cut with long stems and good 
foliage, thev appear to much greater advantage than if dumped 
down close to the stand. When raised a few inches the size 
and symmetry of the flower are fully seen and appreciated by 
the judges, whereas a flower close to the board has much of its 
beauty and form hidden. 

The undermentioned varieties are excellent for exhibition, and 
are those most frequently seen in prize-winning stands. 

Hybrid Perpetuals. 



Alfred Colomb (Syn. ]Marshal P. 
AVilder), rich carmine-red. 

A. K. Williams, bright reddish-crim- 
son. 

Abel Can-iere, deep dark maroon. 

Baroness Rothschild, light pmk or 
flesh colour (Fig. 53). 

Beauty of AValtham, rich rosy-crimson. 

•Captain Hayward, bright carmine- 
crimson. 

Camille Bernardin. light crimson. 

Charles Darwin, rich bronz3--crimson. 

Charles Lefebvre, brilliant red, shaded 
with pui-ple. 

Comte de Rainibaud. splendid crimson. 

Comtesse d' Oxford, line carmine-red. 

Countess of Rosebeiy, soft carmine- 
rose. 

Dr. Andn,-, bright red. 
Dr. Hogg, deep violet. 
Duchess de Morny, silver3--rose. 
Duke of Connaught, rich velvety-crim- 
son. 

Duke of Edinburgh, brilliant vermihon. 
Duke of Teck, light crimson. 
Duke of Wellington, ^ivid crimson. 
Dupuv Janiain, rich cheny-rose. 
Earl of Dufferin, velvety crimson. 
Etienne Levet, pale carmine-red. 
E. Y. Teas, rosy-crimson. 



Fisher Holmes, bright scarlet. 
Francois Michelon, sLlver}--rose. 
General Jacqueminot, brilliant velvet}-- 
red. 

Gustave Piganeau, rosy-crimson. 
Her Majesty, flesh colour ; a shy blos- 
somer. 

Jeannie Dickson, rosy-prnk. 
John Hopper, rich rosy-crimson. 
Le Ha\Te, vermilion-red. 
Madame Eugene Verdier, light silven,-- 
rose. 

Madame Gabriel Luizet, silvery-pink. 

^Marchioness of DuiFerin, rosy-pink. 
]SIarchioness of Londondeny, ivor}-- 
white. 

Marie Baumann, ciimson-red. 
Mrs. John Laing, beautiful soft pink. 
^Margaret Dickson, splendid white. 
Paul Xeron, deep rose ; immense size. 
Prince Camille de Rohan, dark crim- 
son-maroon. 
Senateur Vaisse, deep red. 
Star of Waltham, rich carmine. 
Suzanne M. Rodocanachi, silver\--rose. 
Uhich Biimner, cheny-crimson. 
Victor Hugo, crimson red. 
Victor Verdier, cherr\"-rose. 
Violette Bow}"er, vrhite ; a line varietv. 
White Baroness, pure white. 



ox ROSES. 



J I I 



Hybrid Tea-scexted Roses. 

Belle Siebriecht (Syn. Mrs. W. J. 

Grant), ricli rosy-pink. 
Captain Christy, light salmon-flesli. 
Caroline Testout, lovely rosy-salmon. 
Ivaiserin Augusta Victoria, white ; a 

splendid acquisition. 
Lady !Mary Fitzwilliam, rosy-pink ; a 

rather weak grower. 



La France. si!ver}--rose iFig. 521. 
Madame J. Finger, creamy- white. 
Marquis Litta, rosy-carmine. 
Mrs. C. AVhitney, deep pink. 
Pink Rover, beautiful pale pink. 
Souvenir de President Caruot, creamv- 
white. 

Viscountess Folkestone, silver}-- pink. 



Tea Roses for Exhibitiox. 



Bridesmaid, pink : an improved 
Catherine Mermet. 

Caroline Kuster (Xoisette), lemon- 
yellow. 

Catherine ^lermet, pale flesh colomr ; 

one of the ven,- best (Fig. 47). 
Cleopatra, pale pink. 
Comtesse de Xadaillac, rich flesh 

colour. 

Devoniensis, white, faintly tinged with 

yellow. 
Elise Fugier, ieraon-white. 
Ernest Metz. salmon-pink. 
Ethel Brownlow, salmpn-pink. 
Etoile de Lyon, sulphur -yellow. 
Francisca Kruger. bronzy-yellow. 
Hon. Edith Gifford, white, lightly 

tinged with rose. 
Innocente Pirola, pale fawn. 



Jean Ducher, pale salmon. 
Jules Finger, silver}--rose. 
Madame Cusin, rosy-purple. 
Madame Hoste, creamy-white. 
Maman Cochet, pink, shaded with 
yellow. 

^larie Van Houtte, creamv-white (Fig. 
48). 

Muriel Grahame, pale cream, flushed 
^vith rose. 

Xiphetos, beautifiil white (Fig. 49). 

Perle des Jardins, rich straw colour. 

Souvenir de Gabrielle Drevet, whitish- 
salmon. 

Souvenir d'un Ami, salmon-rose. 
Souvenir de S. A. Prince, grand pure 
white. 

The Bride, a white sport from Catherine 
Mermet. 



Banksian Roses (Jiosa Banksid). 

These distinct Roses were introduced from China early in this 
centur}', and named after Lady Banks. As a class they are 
strong-growing, but not quite hardy in the north. They are 
semi-evergreen in mild winters. 

Good plants of Banksian Roses are always much admired, 
but unless the situation is warm, and the soil well drained, they 
are not a success. Given these conditions, however, and planted 
in March, they " will make rapid growth, and in three or four 
years prove all that could be desired. The Yellow or Lutea 
variety is the most free blossoming, and is probably much the 
best of the few varieties known. The White or Alba variety is* 
equally as free and vigorous as the Yellow one, but it seldom, 
if ever, blossoms so profusely. Yery little pruning is necessary; 
the weak wood, exhausted flowering shoots, and any unripened 
wood are all that need be removed. AVhen once the plants are 
established, liquid manure, diluted, given during dry weather, is 
beneficial, taking care to thoroughly saturate the soil for some 
considerable depth and width, as mere driblets do more harm 
than good. 



112 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Hybrid Perpetual Roses. 

There is no record of the origin of this class, but it seems, 
certain that it originated by hybridising several species or 
strains, followed by careful selection. The name "Perpetual" was 
given because of their blossoming all through the summer. 

Opinions differ, and probably will continue to differ, as to- 
the best form in which to grow these brilliant Roses — standards,, 
half-standards, or bush. All have strong advocates, and grow 
high-class flowers. The half-standard is perhaps the best for 
general purposes, being easy to examine, vigorous, and suf- 
ficiently high to prevent splashing of the blossoms by heavy 
storms. Some of the varieties are excellent for growing in bush 
form, and if planted widely apart, the long shoots, instead of 
being cut or pruned hard, may be left almost their full length, 

and pegged down to the 
soil. In this way a mass 
of flower is obtained, and 
although the blossoms are 
not of exhibition form, 
they are first-rate for gar- 
den decoration or cutting. 
Standards and half- 
standards must be rather 
severely pruned, not only 
to keep the heads within 
reasonable bounds, but 
also to ensure really fine 
blossoms. In the first 
place, all weak wood or 
shoots that cross each 
other or grow towards 
the centre ought to be 
cut out : such wood ob- 
structs light and makes 
the head a tangled mass. 
Two or more buds may 
be left at the base of 
each shoot when pruning, 
according to variety, as, for instance, weak-growing ones should 
be cut in hard to cause them to grow more vigorously, but 
very strong growers may with advantage be left longer, and 




Fig. 53. — Rose Baroness Rothschild. 



ON ROSES. 



pruned to the first bold bud nearest the base of each shoot. 
With bushes, the shoots, if desired, can be left their full length 
and pegged down as mentioned above, or pruned in much the 
same manner as advised for Tea Roses. 

All the best trade growers of Roses work the varieties on the 
stocks most suited to each, and therefore that question is 
settled for the purchaser when he buys his stock ; and as the 
varieties are so very numerous, only a few comparatively of those 




Fig. 54. — Rose Clio. 

{Fyoni a Photograph by Richmond & Pcto, Lustleigh, S. Devon.) 



of known merit are named here, and, unless otherwise noted, 
are all of vigorous growth. A more extended list is to be found 
in the "Appendix." 

Abel Carriere, deep maroon ; large, and of good form. Alfred 
Colomb, carmine-red ; a grand old variety, of perfect form. 
A. K. Williams, rich light crimson ; one of the finest of this 
class. Baroness Rothschild (Fig. 53), rosy-pink; a large flower, 
freely produced. Charles Gater, crimson-rose ; large ; flowers 
very freely. Charles Lefebvre, bright red, shaded with purple ; 

I 



114 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



floriferous 
promising 




a splendid old variety. Clio, flesh colour, shaded with pink; 
flowers large and abundantly produced (Fig. 54). Comtesse 
de Paris, soft rose, shading to white; of fine form and 
pretty. Comte Raimbaud, shining crimson; beautiful shape; 
excellent. Dr. Andry, bright red ; of good shape ; very 
Due d'Orleans, deep crimson ; of good form ; a 
new variety. Duchess de Morny, light rose ; grand 

form ; an excellent old 
Rose. Duke of Con- 
naught, velvety - crim- 
son ; perfect shape. 
Duke of Edinburgh, 
fine deep vermilion ; 
an indispensable old 
variety. Duke ot 
Teck, light - crimson ; 
a large globular flower, 
of perfect shape. 
Emily Laxton, cherry- 
rose; very charming 
in the bud state. 
Fisher Holmes, deep 
scarlet ; large, and of 
perfect shape. General 
Jacqueminot (Fig. 55), 
deep velvety-red ; one 
of the best old varie- 
ties. Glory of Ches- 
hunt, crimson ; " a 
splendid bedding Rose. 
Her Majesty, flesh 
colour; very large and 
fine ; it is best on 
the Briar stock. John 
Hopper, rosy-crimson, large ; very free-flowering. Lady Sheffield, 
rosy-pink ; a well-shaped and handsome variety. Madame 
Eugene Verdier, silvery-rose ; perfect shape ; a first-rate sort. 
Madame Hippolyte Jamain, white, tinged with pink ; large 
and pretty. Madame Lacharme, pure white ; pretty, and 
an abundant blossomer. Madame Norman Neruda, cherry- 
carmine ; perfect shape, and nicely scented. Marchioness of 
Duflerin, rosy-pink ; excellent form. Margaret Dickson, white ; 




Fig. 55. — Rose General Jacqueminot. 



ON ROSES. 115 

a grand and well-shaped flower. Marie Baumann, crimson ; 
a splendidly-formed flower. Mrs. John Laing, soft pink ; a 
pleasing and beautiful Rose. Paul's Early Blush, blush-white, 
of good form, and a profuse blossomer (Fig. 56). Paul Neron, 




Fig. 56. — Rose Paul's Early Blush. 

{From a Photograph b"' Richmond & Peto, Lnstleigh, S. Devon.) 



deep rose; ot good form; one of the largest Roses. Pride 
of Reigate, crimson, with white stripes ; the H.P. striped 
form. Pierre Notting, intense dark red ; large, and of good 
form. Princess Mary of Cambridge, pale rose ; large, and 

I 2 



Il6 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

very free. Reynolds Hole (Fig. 57), deep maroon, flushed 
scarlet ; very dark and distinct. Senateur Vaisse, bright red ; 

an old Rose, difficult to 
excel. Ulrich Brunner, 
cherry-crimson ; a mag- 
nificent flower, and 
very vigorous. Violette 
Bouyer, white ; large 
globular flowers ; free 
and good. Xavier Olibo, 
velvety - crimson ; of 
good form, and a 
moderate grower. 

Noisette Roses 

{Rosa indica 
Noisettiand). 

The country of which 
Rosa indica is a native 
does not appear to be 
known, but R. i. Noi- 
settiana is probably the 
result of crossing R. in- 
dica with R. moschata. 
Introduced into Europe 
from America by Mons. 
P. Noisette about 1820. 
Fig. 57. — Rose Reynolds Hole. The majority of the 

varieties have a deli- 
cious perfume, somewhat similar to that of the Tea Roses. The 
plants are nearly evergreen, and produce their flowers in clusters. 

In this class are included some of our finest Roses, and 
some of the varieties are found in almost every garden of extent, 
flowering continuously in many instances all through the summer 
and autumn months. A few of the best known, like Marechal 
Niel and W. Allen Richardson (Fig. 58), are sometimes termed 
unsatisfactory, but if the soil or border is well prepared, as 
already advised, and the plants are given a few good saturating^ 
at the roots during the summer, when planted against walls, 
they will, in the majority of instances, grow and flower profusely. 
None of these varieties should be severely pruned — merely 
taking out, in fact, the weak wood and exhausted pieces, and 




ox ROSES. 




Fig. 58. — Rose William 
Allex Richardsox. 

standard. Aimee Vibert, 
white ; a perpetual blos- 
soming variety; it makes 
a good screen. Celine 
Forestier, deep sulphur- 
yellow ; splendid in all 
forms. Duchess of Meck- 
lenberG:, li^ht vellow : 
flowers in large bunches. 
Lamarque, pure white ; a 
grand Rose on a warm 
wall ; tender otherwise. 
L'ldeal, yellow, shaded 
with bronze : beautiful : 
a good habit. ^vladame 
Pierre Cochet, apricot; 
a very pretty variety. 
Marechal Xiel (Fig. 59), 



training in the shoots nearly their 
full length. If pruned hard, although 
the growth may, and probably 
will, be rampant, flowers will 
be conspicuous by their small 
quantity. A few varieties answer 
well as standards, the heads 
being trained in a weeping 
or umbrella form. These 
are mentioned as 
good standards; 
others should be 
against a wall or 
Adelina V. ^lorel, yellow: 
Jpi small, and produced in 
bunches ; best as a 



making 
all the 
trained 
pillars : 




Fig. 59. — Rose Marechal Xiel. 



ii8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



golden-yellow ; this variety needs no recommendation. Reve 
d'Or, deep yellow ; a grand and hardy variety. W. Allen 
Richardson, deep orange ; now a well-known favourite. 

Bourbon Roses {Rosa indica bourhomaiid). 

These Roses are very sweet-scented, and are remarkable for 
the second crop of flowers being the best. They are supposed 
to have resulted from a cross between R. indica and R. galiica, 
and are a remarkably free section of the Monthly Roses. Intro- 
duced from the Isle of Bourbon about 1825. 

This is a pretty class, and if not pruned severel}', the plants will 
flower most abundantly in the autumn. The followmg varieties 
can be recommended : Armosa, pink ; this makes a bold effect 
if planted in a mass. Climbing Souvenir de la Malmaison, light 
flesh colour ; very fine and free. Madame Isaac Pereire, light 
carmine ; very pretty and a free grower. Mrs. Paul, rosy- 
peach colour ; an excellent and beautiful variety ; good grower. 
Souvenir de la Malmaison, flesh colour ; large ; a well-known 
popular variety. 

Rosa Polyantha hybrida. 

This belongs to the Rosa multiflora group, some sections 
of which are very dwarf, as in the present case, while others are 
tall climbers, as in the case of Crimson Rambler. The flowers 
are always small, and produced very continuously in large clusters. 

These lovely little Roses are not so well known as they 
should be, or they would undoubtedly be widely planted or 
grown in pots, as they succeed admirably both under glass and 
outside, and their large trusses of small, graceful blossoms are 
very useful indeed where cut flowers are wanted. If in pots, a 
compost of four-fifths fibrous, rich loam and one part decayed 
manure, with a little bone-meal added, will grow them well ; 
and if forced gradually — not given too much heat at first — and 
kept close to the glass, it is astonishing how admirably they 
grow and flower. Immediately a shoot has done flowering, 
whether inside or outside, it should be cut down nearly to its 
base ; fresh growth will then be made, and another crop of 
flowers very shortly produced. In fact, by this plan several 
crops of blossom will be secured from the plants during the 
season. Another advantage the Roses of this section possess is 
their dwarf habit, ift. to i8in. being the average height of the 
plants when in flower, which renders them suitable for margins 



ON ROSES. 



119 



of borders, or for planting by the sides of paths, where the 
flowers can be gathered easily. Generous treatment in manuring 
is greatly appreciated by these plants when once well established, 
though care must be taken not to overdo it by using either 
liquid or solid manure in a too powerful application. 

All the following are charming varieties : Anna Marie de 
Montravel, white, sweetly - scented flowers, borne in large 
clusters. Blanche Rebatel, crimson, with white centre ; very 
attractive. Camille de Rochetaille, pure white ; lovely ; an 
abundant blossomer. Clothilde Soupert, white, with pink centre ; 
one of the very best. Etoile d'Or, lemon-yellow ; distinct and 
pretty. Filius Straussheim, cream, changing to orange ; free 
flowering. Georges Fernet, rosy-peach ; fine for forcing or outside 
planting. Gloire des Polyantha, rose, shaded with white; a lovely 
variety ; one of the best. Mignonette, rosy-pink ; a really charming 
variety for all purposes. Paquerette, pure white ; this is another 
very fine variety. Perle d'Or, yellow, shading to orange ; a pretty 
variety. 

Provence Roses {Rosa centifolid). 

Probably one of the oldest class of Roses, and found in 
quantity in many gardens, where they make a good display in 
June and July. Introduced about 1596. The term "Cabbage 
Rose " is applied because of the supposed similarity of 
form the petals of the flowers bear to the leaves of the 
cabbage. 

All the Provence Roses are more or less fragrant, and being 
so easy to grow, they succeed almost everywhere, and always 
appear to advantage in shrubberies or large beds. Nearly all 
give the best results, if pruned rather severely, and not permitted 
to become overcrowded. Although these varieties succeed planted 
amongst other shrubs in a struggle for existence, they respond 
freely to good treatment. The well-known Cabbage Rose, and 
also Cristata, White Provence, and Maiden's Blush are about 
the best varieties of this class, followed by the smaller-flowered 
forms of the same type, such as White de Meaux, De Meaux, 
Spong, and Moss de Meaux, all the above ranging from white 
to rosy-pink in colour. The old York and Lancaster Rose 
represents the striped form of Provence Roses, of which there 
are a fair number of varieties, Camayoux, Rosa Mundi, Com- 
mandant Beaurepaire, Mecene, and Perle des Panaches being 
amongst the best. 



I20 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Moss Roses {Rosa cejitifoha muscosd). 

The Moss Rose is considered to be a descendant from the 
Provence Rose, and its treatment or culture is much the same: 
and when it is remembered how sweetly-scented and charming 
it is, one wonders why it is not more w^idely grown and better 
cultivated. In its lovely mossy buds, this section possesses 
an attraction found in no other. The colours vary from 
pure w^hite to deep crimson, and the following varieties, with 
their colours, are good ones, and practically sure to afford 
satisfaction if planted : Angelique Quetier, lilac rose ; Baron de 
Wassenaer, bright red; Blanche Moreau, pure white; excellent — 
that well-known authority, Mr. George Paul, recommends this 
variety for a hedge, in his catalogue ; Celina, deep crimson ; 
fine ; Cristata, shining rose ; Gloire des Mousseuses, blush ; 
extra good ; Laneii, rosy-crimson ; Muscosa J^^ponica, crimson ; 
very heavily mossed buds ; GEillet Panache, white, striped 
with red ; this is considered to be one of the best striped 
varieties. 

Evergreen Roses {Rosa sempervirens). 

Though not quite evergreen, these retain their foliage most of 
the winter. All the varieties are admirably adapted for 
planting against fences, pillars, in wild gardens, and similar 
places, as they grow rampantly, and flower in the most profuse 
manner if the young wood is not cut back, but left its full 
length, and all the w^eak, exhausted wood occasionally cut out. 
Amongst the varieties the following are excellent, viz. : Russelliana, 
crimson ; Flora, rose ; and Felicite Perpetue, white. If these 
are planted in masses they produce a charming effect when in 
blossom. 

Ayrshire Roses {Rosa arvensis). 

A native species found nearly all over Europe. The plants 
are of quick growth, and the shoots long, thin, and graceful. 
In the wild garden these are invaluable, as they will climb 
banks, run up or over trees, arches, &c., scarcely needing ' any 
attention, while being so very hardy they will thrive in the 
coldest districts. Tastes differ, fortunately, but all wall admire 
the following varieties : Splendens, white, tinted with red, 
semi-double ; Arvensis ; Bennett's Seedling, white, tinged with 
pink, one of the best ; and Ruga, pale pink colour. 



ON ROSES. 



121 



Boursault Roses {Rosa alpind). 

An Alpine species, quite hardy in the coldest districts of 
Britain. Remarkable for its strong growth and smooth wood. 

This is another remarkably hardy section, and, like the 
Ayrshire Roses, will grow anyw^here and everywhere ; and if all 
the weak and spent w^ood is cut out immediately after the 
flowering period is over, the long, strong growths will become 
well-ripened, and bear immense bunches of lovely semi-double 
red or crimson flowers. The following are the best and most 
useful varieties : Gracilis (the best of all), Elegans, and Amadis. 

Sweet Briars {Rosa rubiginosa). 

A native species often found w^ild where the soil is sandy. 
The foliage is pleasantly scented. 

In these, again, we have charming Roses for the wilder 
portions of the garden, as witness Janet's Pride, w^ith its lovely 
crimson flowers, borne in great abundance ; and also the Double 
Scarlet and Double White. Not only will these varieties grow 
freely anywhere, but they are most attractive w^hen in flower 
and fruit. 

Lord Penzance Hybrid Sweet Briars. 

Raised by Lord Penzance from Sweet Briars, hybridised and 
selected. The flowers are semi-double, and of various pretty 
shades, with the sweet-scented foliage of the Sweet Briar. They 
have of late years become very popular, alike for their beautiful 
flowers, handsome berries, and for their value for clumps, arches 
hedges, and nearly all other purposes, as they can be employed 
with a certainty of their hardiness and success. Amongst the 
score or so varieties, the following are specially pretty and 
useful : Lady Penzance, delicate bronze ; Lord Penzance, a 
shade of lemon ; Julie Mannering, pink ; Lucy Ashton, white, 
tinged with pink. Rose Bradwardine, Lucy Bertram. Anne of 
Gierstein, and Amy Robsart are all rose-coloured varieties ; and 
Jeannie Deans is a pretty rosy-crimson. All of the above are 
worthy of a place in every garden. 

Austrian Briars {Rosa lutea). 

These consist of selections from a Rose found growing wild in 
some parts of Europe. The flowers are usually nearly single, 
and freely produced on pretty • prickly shoots. 



122 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



When planted out in an open sunny position, and not pruned 
much, these Roses are early blossoming and very attractive. The 
Austrian Yellow (Fig. 60) and Austrian Copper are perhaps the 




Fig. 60. — Rose Austrian Yellow. 

best known, but the variety known as Persian Yellow is much the 
best, the flowers being very distinct and of the deepest yellow 
colour. Harrisonii is not so vigorous as the last-named, but it is a 
pretty sulphur-yellow, with double flowers, and forms a pretty 
bush. 

Rambler Roses. 

This is a tall-growing section of Rosa mitltiflora. The best 
variety (Crimson Rambler) is stated to have been introduced 
from Japan about 1890. The plants are very vigorous, and 
bear an abundance of small flowers in clusters. 

That splendid variety Turner's Crimson Rambler deserves- 
almost a class for itself, for its great beauty and usefulness.. 
Not only does it force well and blossom most freely in small 
pots, but it is probably the best Rose in cultivation for planting 
against pillars or arches. It is not so well suited for planting 
against a wall, never growing or flowering so freely as when the 
air can play all round it. Nearly every piece of young wood 



ON ROSES. 



123 



will contribute its quota of blossoms, and the best mode of 
treating this variety is to prune immediately after flowering, 
cutting away exhausted or congested wood, and keeping the 
growth clean and free from insect or fungoid attacks. Anglaia 
(yellow), Thalia (white), and Euphrosyne (pink) are sometimes 
known as Rambler varieties, but, though very effective and good 
growers, they are not equal to Crimson Rambler, 




Fig. 61. — Rosa spinosissima. 



Scotch Roses {Rosa spinosissima). 

These are probably the most prickly of all the Rose family. 
They are very hardy, and produce a mass of pretty flowers 
during the summer months, and are excellent for planting on the 
margins of plantations and shrubberies and in the wild garden 
(Fig. 61). In such positions they seem quite happy, and will grow 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



.and flower profusely for years, if liberally manured annually, and 
the old wood is cut out when becoming congested. There are 
probably not more than six or eight distinct varieties, the 
Double White and Double Yellow being the best and most 
■enduring in flower. 

The above about covers the field so far as varieties are con- 
cerned, with the exception of the Japanese Roses {R. rugosa), 
which are dealt with under "Trees and Shrubs." There are, 
however, the pests to be considered, and as these are very 
numerous, requiring for purposes of actual identification more 
entomological knowledge than is possessed by the average 
gardener, this portion of the subject has been treated by my 
■collaborator, Mr. W. D. Drury. 

Insect and other Enemies. 

Few plants have a more unenviable reputation for harbourmg 
ipests than the Rose ; indeed, when we come to consider the host 
of insects which live upon it, we w^onder that such good results 
.are obtained in those gardens where the owners are able to devote 
little attention to their cultivation. To treat the subject of 
Rose pests in a very thorough manner would involve the writing 
'Of a special chapter. Here all that w^ill be attempted is to 
briefly enumerate the commoner and more destructive foes, and 
the methods of dealing with them, referring those who seek for 
further information about such of them as are to be found upon 
other plants as well to the chapter "On Pests in General." 

The most troublesome of the pests affecting Roses are Aphides, 
Moth Caterpillars, Sawfly Caterpillars, Thrips, Earwigs, Anis, 
Weevils, Rosechafers, Leaf-cutting Bees, Rose-leaf Hoppers, Rust, 
and Mildew. Cockchafer grubs are now and again injurious to the 
roots of Roses ; and Scale insects very occasionally assert them- 
selves. The former is always a difficult insect to deal with ; but 
the latter may be readily dislodged. Apart, too, from the foes 
■enumerated, there are some curious growths known popularly as 
Rose-galls, which require something more than passing mention, 
.as they occur so frequently alike on wild and cultivated Roses 
that every gardener who is anxious to be progressive would like 
to peep a little way into the life-history of these interesting and 
■curious structures. First, as to the 

Aphides. — These are by far the commonest and best known 
.of Rose pests, though the methods of dealing with them satis- 
factorily present not a few difficulties to even the most energetic 



ON ROSES. 



125 



of gardeners. With any insect pest the first question that a 
gardener must ask himself is, How do"es the creature feed ? as- 
upon that the method or combating it chiefly depends. The 
gardener who has not given a very deep consideration to the 
subject is frequently puzzled to find that after using perhaps a 
strong poison upon a food-plant, not the slightest impression is 
made upon the insects it was his desire to kill. The explanation 
is an easy one, and it will, be dealt with in the chapter upon. 
Pests already alluded to. Suffice it to say that Aphides, of 
which from four to six species derive their sustenance from 
Roses, are provided with a tubular beak, by means of which they 
extract the sap from the plant. They are objectionable on that 
account, as also by reason of the fact that they sometimes cover 
the leaves of the food-plant with excreta, and so clog them 
that they are quite incapable of performing their proper 
functions. 

These pests are found upon indoor Roses as well as upon' 
outdoor ones. In the former case recourse must be had 
to one of the vaporising insecticides. There are now many- 
excellent preparations on the market, and they are so made that 
they leave behind no objectionable odour, as was the case with 
many of the old fumigating compounds; indeed, in one or 
two cases the insecticide leaves quite a pleasant smell. For 
outdoor trees there is nothing better in the early part of the 
season than to keep the syringe actively at work. Even luke- 
warm rain-water will in itself be beneficial, taking care to 
syringe the shoots very carefully. Gishurst Compound and Abol 
are two excellent aphidicides that are cheap and readily prepared.. 
If a home-made one is considered best, then the following 
should be tried : 20Z. carbolic soft soap, well dissolved in one 
gallon of hot water, and sprayed while warm on both sides of 
the foliage. Two washings will effectually oust the enemy. 

Moth Caterpillars. — These are very numerous and correspond- 
ingly destructive. The worst are the caterpillars of certain 
Tortrices, which feed either in a case, or else between tw^o leaflets, 
or leaflets and shoots, drawn together in a most ingenious 
fashion, so that the culprits are difficult to detect. Syringing is 
of little use to keep down these minute pests, as feeding as they 
do concealed they are not likely to be affected by it ; moreover, 
they are readily alarmed, and on the first intimation that some- 
thing is wrong drop from their snug retreats and lie concealed 
until danger is past. The commonest of the Tortrices — the grubs 



126 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



of which infest Roses — are : Pardia tripuncfata, reddish-brown, 
with black head ; April and May. Didyopteryx bergt?ianniana, 
yellow or yellowish-green, black head ; May — a near relative 
of the oak defoliator, T. vij'idana. Tortrix rosana, olive-green, 
with darker dorsal line, white spots in the tubercular region, 
brown head ; May and June. Leptograinma variegana, pale 
green, with darker dorsal line, head brownish ; June and 
July. In dealing with these pests great factors are late 
pruning, and taking care to see that all shoots, &c., are 
collected and burnt. The late pruning is of course but 
a preventive measure. Once the trees are attacked some- 
thing else must be done. There is nothing better than going 
over them each morning and squeezing between finger and 
thumb all distorted and spun-together leaflets. Man)' growers 
take the trouble to examine each case or set of spun-together 
leaflets ; but this takes infinitely longer, and is no more useful 
in the end. Sometimes when pressure comes to be exerted on 
the leaves it will be found that they are empty. The gardener 
must then look a little higher, as the insect, having exhausted 
the food-supply, has sought fresh pastures — usually the shoots 
just above will be found to harbour the creature. 

Of quite a different habit of life is the Tortrix Spiionota 
robormia. The caterpillar of this minute moth is responsible for 
a lot of damage to Rose-trees, as it is extremely common. 
Seldom, however, does it get detected, and the cause of the 
mischief is put down to something else. It is this caterpillar 
which lives in the pith of young shoots, causing them to die 
away in a somewhat mysterious manner. When this is the case, 
if the dead or dying shoot be cut off in April or May, there will 
probably be disclosed a small reddish-brown larva with a brown 
head. All such shoots should be burnt at once, and not con- 
signed to the rubbish-heap, as is frequently the case. 

Another very small caterpillar infesting Rose-trees is that pest 
of the fruit-grower, the Winter Moth {C/ieimatobia hriimatd). It 
is only about -^in. long, and very variable as to colour — green, 
yellowish, or greenish-grey, with a darker dorsal line. The best 
preventive measures are grease-banding, as for fruit-trees, in 
late autumn. Sometimes, however, the wingless female manages 
to deposit her eggs despite every precaution ; then nothing but 
spraying with a poisonous substance is of much avail : |oz. of 
Paris green to 2ogalls. of water, sprayed on lukewarm in April, 
before the buds have expanded, will be of the greatest use. The 



ON ROSES. 



127 



larva of the Winter Moth is to a great extent kept in check by 
the Ichneumon flies, more than sixty species preying upon it. 

In certain seasons the very destructive caterpillar of the 
Gooseberry Moth, Abraxas grossulariata, will attack Rose trees, 
and practically defoliate them. Powdered hellebore should be 
dusted on the foliage. 

Hitherto all the moth caterpillars dealt with have been small 
and well concealed from sight. There are, however, to be 
enumerated several caterpillars of the larger moths well 
known to every gardener. They do not, however, select the 
Rose alone as a food-plant, 

but being practically omni- , 



it. This is a very voracious 

species, and would quickly defoliate a tree if present in any 
numbers. Like the last it is very hairy. It is grey, beautifully 
spotted with red, and edged with w^hite. On the second and 
twelfth, and fifth and sixth segments the hair-tufts are black ; 
whereas those of the fifth and eighth are yellowish. Once seen 
the creature is hardly likely to be passed over for anything else. 
The Lackey Moth {Bombyx Neustria) caterpillar, another hairy 
species which is found upon many plants, but always an unde- 
sirable visitor, frequently affects Roses. It has a bluish-grey 



vorous, the plant occasionally 
is laid under contribution to 
provide them with food. One 
of these is the caterpillar of 
the Gold-Tail Moth (^Liparis 
similis) {aiirifiua). As will be 
seen by the illustration (Fig. 
62), it is a strikingly-marked 
hairy creature. In colour it 
is black, with a red double 
dorsal line, red tubercles on 
the tenth and eleventh seg- 
ments, and some white marks 
in the sub-dorsal region. The 
Common Vapourer {Orgyia 
antiqua) is no less omnivorous, 
and quite as striking as the 
caterpillar just illustrated. It 
is also extremely common, 
almost every garden containing 




Fig. 62. — Caterpillar of Liparis 
SIMILIS (Gold-Tail Moth). 



128 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



head, with two black spots in the vicinity. The body is striped 
with blue, yellow, and white. It emerges in April. Hand-picking 
is best for these conspicuous caterpillars, as they soon make their 
presence known. The trees may also be shaken over a sticky 
board, and the insects afterwards picked up and destroyed. With 
hairy caterpillars it is a well-known fact that the gardener gets 
very little help from the usual bird-dwellers. The chief 
exception, so far as the writer knows, is in the case of the cuckoo, 
which seems to have a particular relish for such hairy creatures. 

One other species of moth should also be mentioned, as its 
food-plant is entirely the Rose. This is Cidaria fulvata^ another 
very common species. The caterpillar emerges in April, but is 
not readily seen, as its colour harmonises so well with its environ- 
ment. In colour it is pale green, with greenish-grey lines upon 
the back, and yellowish near the spiracles. Hand-picking is the 
only remedy. 

Even more destructive than the moth caterpillars are those 
of the Sawflies feeding upon the Rose. Those generally seen 
feed exposed, though there is one species occasionally met with 
i^Pamphiliiis i?ianitd) which encloses itself in a case fashioned 
from its food-plant. 

There is a large number of the Sawfly Caterpillars, but amongst 
the commonest and most destructive are Hvlotoma rosa (Fig. 63), 




Fig. 63. — Larv^ of Rose-leaf Sawfly. 



a bluish-green insect with a black head. The eggs are laid in 
the Rose-twigs in a double row, each egg being deposited sepa- 
rately. To add to the gardener's trouble, the insect is double- 
brooded. When the larvae hatch out, they at once commence 



ON ROSES. 129 

to feed upon the leaflets, working from the edges. Many of 
the Sawflies — and especially the one under notice and a species 
which infests Filbert-trees — -are very restless on being disturbed, 
and assume what appears to be a defiant attitude ; this is parti- 
cularly well shown by the illustration. There are several other 
species of Hylotoma affecting Roses, but none more destructive 
than the one just described. 

To the genus Eriocampa belongs another most voracious 
species, E. roscE. This feeds very differently from H. ros(E and 
its allies, for instead of devouring the leaflets in their entirety 
it attacks only their epidermis. This characteristic betrays 
at once the presence of the caterpillars of E. rosce, even if 
the objectionable-looking slug-like creature were itself not in 
evidence. This is a very near relative of the Slug-worm (so- 
called) of Pear- and Apple-trees. The eggs are deposited 
in May by the female Sawfly (which it would serve no good 
purpose to describe here) in the midribs of the leaflets, and they 
are hatched out in some two to three weeks. The resulting 
larvae are yellowish-green, and when full-fed they pupate in oval 
cocoons spun beneath the surface of the soil. 

A very distinct species is Pamphilius {Lyda) inanita,, which 
feeds protected by a case, mimicing in this particular one of the 
objectionable Clothes-Moths. There are also other Sawflies, all of 
which feed on the leaves ; for though there is a species which 
feeds on the pith it has been so seldom recorded that it is hardly 
worth taking into account. By many the pith-feeding moth 
caterpillar already alluded to is frequently mistaken for it. 

Roses which have been sprayed with a weak arsenical solution 
several times before the blossoms expand will ' be less likely 
to harbour Sawfly caterpillars than those not so treated ; but 
many growers have strong prejudice against the use of these 
arsenites. In such cases, powdered hellebore dusted on the 
leaves in the early morning when they are damp from the dew 
w^ill be the best means of keeping Sawflies away, or destroying 
any larvae which have taken up their abode on the plants. The 
caterpillars may also be shaken from the trees over a cloth, and 
collected and destroyed ; but the hellebore (which by the way 
is a strong poison) is far more effectual and practical. As the 
Sawflies usually pupate just beneath the surface of the soil, it is 
a good plan when a tree has been severely attacked in summer, 
to remove the surface soil to a depth of two or three inches, 
replacing it with fresh. This is best done in late autumn. 

K 



130 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

Thrips^ though very minute insects, in certain seasons inflict 
a lot of injury upon Rose blossoms ; in fact, it is no uncommon 
experience with those who exhibit to find some of their choicest 
blossoms quite disfigured by the little creatures sucking the 
juices from the petals. Syringing is most helpful, and if fairly 
persistent before the buds open will be found an excellent pre- 
ventative against the insects' attacks upon outdoor Roses. Under 
glass they are also pests, and in that case fumigation must be 
had recourse to. Teas usually harbour these little insects in the 
largest numbers. 

Earwigs are injurious to Roses, but less so than to many 
other flowers — Dahlias for instance. They should be trapped by 
means of rolls of soft paper, old pieces of flannel, or inverted 
flower-pots half-filled with hay, and placed in the trees or on 
sticks. These traps must be examined each morning, and the 
offenders killed by shaking them into a vessel and pouring over 
them boiling water. 

Ants. — Interesting and industrious as these insects undoubtedly 
are, they are enemies to the Rose-grower, and must be dealt 
with in the manner described in the chapter "On Pests in 
General." They are very numerous, and will soon make short 
work of a most promising bud, especially if such has been 
slightly injured previously. 

Beetles. — Considering the numerical strength of the order Cole- 
optera, and the host of species to be found in gardens, it is 

astonishing to find such a very 
small percentage destructive to 
Roses. Offender in chief is the 
Rosechafer {Ceto?iia auratd) (Fig. 
64), an insect which for beauty of 
colour rivals anvthins; in the floral 
world known to this countrv. 
Viewed in bright sunshine its 
garments are of the most gorgeous 
hues the upper surface being of 
a brilliant green with golden reflec- 
tions — the under surface a bright 
copper. Seen, too, as it frequently 
is, in the centre .of a Rose, whose 
colour only adds to the beauty of 
the intruder, it is indeed fair to look upon ; but there cannot 
be any doubt as to its destructive propensities, and the insect 




Fig. 64. — The Rosechafer 
(Cetonia aurataj . 



ON ROSES. 



must be taken and killed much as we admire it. The 
Rosechafer comes of a very destructive family — a family which 
includes the formidable Stag Beetle and the familiar Cock- 
chafers. It is only as a perfect insect that it feeds upon 
flowers, or rather upon their principal parts : as a larva it 
lives, like its near relatives just named, upon wood. The 
Rosechafer will sometimes hibernate as a perfect insect, burying 
itself in the soil. 

Phyllopertha hortkola, or Coch-y-Bondhu of anglers, is a 
most common species, often, in fact, found in myriads flying 
round trees in summer-time. Roses do not escape their 
unwelcome attention, and suffer similarly to w^hen attacked by 
the Rosechafer. The insects have reddish-brown wing-cases, 
and dark green head and thorax ; they fly towards evening, and 
may then be captured with a beetle-net. During the day they 
are found upon various trees in the garden, from which they may 
be shaken and destroyed, as they are very sluggish at that time. 

One or two of the Weevils, chiefly characterised by long, 
snout-like mouths, are found feeding upon the newly-budded 
portions of Rose-trees. Otiorrhynchiis picipes is one sinner ; it 
is chestnut-brown in colour. Another Weevil, which in certain 
seasons and certain localities proves most destructive, is Otior- 
rhynchiis scabrosus, a very rough-coated, oblong-ovate, black insect, 
measuring some :^in. long. It affects standard trees and gnaws 
the bark off" the young shoots, causing them to decay. Like 
the other members of its family, it is nocturnal, and during 
the day hides itself in the soil beneath or in the vicinity 
of the trees. Generally the bark is gnawed in a circle, but 
not always. Hand-picking with a lantern or shaking the trees 
over a sheet of paper smeared with a sticky compound, is the 
best remedy. 

Rose-leaf Hopper. — Closely allied to the disgusting-looking Frog- 
Hopper of our gardens, is Typhlocyba rosce, an insect about ^jin, 
long, yellowish-white, and with practically transparent wings. The 
under-sides of the leaves are the parts affected, and the insects 
extract the juices from them without being readily seen. It is 
not until the foliage begins to assume an unhealthy appearance 
and is blotched with white, that the little pests are found. They 
are very active, and can fly strongly and well : on this account 
they are difficult insects to deal with, as they are off on the 
slightest movement. Again, living as they do on the under- 
surfaces of the leaves, they are not so readily reached by 

K 2 



132 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



insecticides. The foliage should first be sprayed and then 
dusted with tobacco-powder. 

Leaf-cutting Bee. — The common Leaf-cutting Bee {Megachile 
■circumcincta) is responsible for the removal of the semicircular 
pieces of foliage from Rose-trees, more especially from Marechal 
Niel. The insect belongs to the Solitary Bees, and to the 
group Andrenid(E., which are chiefly characterised by their 
short tongues. The pieces of foliage so deftly removed by the 
female are required for the furnishmg of her nest. She is smaller 
than the Honey Bee, and has a black back and yellowish- 
downy head. Though it is annoying to have foliage removed 
in the manner very familiar to Rose-growers, yet one cannot 
help admiring the little creature as, poising herself above a 
Rose-tree for a second or two, she rapidly snips away a piece 
exactly suited to her requirements — no mistake is made as 
to measurements — and away she flies with the piece held by 
means of her jaws and her legs. Having placed it in posi- 
tion, she sallies forth again until her nest is complete. Unlike 
the Social Bees, she has no workers to help in the ela- 
boration of the house — she is architect and forager, labourer 
and queen-mother. The food is next deposited ; it consists of 
pollen and nectar, which are carefully mixed, and on this is 
deposited a single egg. Another cell is made, and the food 
preparation and egg deposition are repeated until the requisite 
number of cells have been completed and sealed. The eggs 
first laid produce females, and those last males. The latter are, 
of course, the first to emerge, feed up, leave their snug retreat, 
and having performed the part which Nature has allotted them, 
die. The females produced hibernate to begin another season 
the cycle anew. Those who object to the foliage being dis- 
figured must either catch the industrious little w^orkers in a net, 
or else insert some plant which is objectionable in the vicinity 
of the Roses — Pyrethrum is as good as anything. 

Scale Insects. — A whitish scale insect {Diaspis rosa) is said to 
infest Rose-stems very occasionally, but it is so rare as to be 
hardly worth consideration. 

Fungoid Diseases. — These are fairly numerous, but there are 
two or three which stand out from the rest on account of their 
markedly unsightly character — Mildew {Sphcej^otheca pannosa)^ 
Actinonema roscE, and Orange Rust [Phragmidium subcoriiciuni). 
The first is characterised by a greyish mildew, which covers 
leaves, stems, and frequently the fruits. Indeed, it is by means 



ON ROSES. 



of the last-named, which are very persistent, that the parasite 
is reproduced again the next season, for it is one of those fungi 
which have both a summer and a winter stage. Mildew appears 
in late spring, or it may be not until summer, and as soon as 
the spores are ripened, they are distributed bv various agencies, 
and a very large area may be involved. If, however, timely 
application of sulphide of potassium, as named below, is 
made, the parasite's progress is checked, and there is no winter 
stage. The leaves of affected trees should all be collected and 
burnt, as should also the fruits and prunings. 

The chief characteristic of Actinonema ros^E is the formation 
of unsightly brown blotches, usually of irregular shape, on the 
upper surfaces of the leaves, chiefly in the vicinity of the 
midrib, but by no means confined thereto. The young shoots 
are also involved, and become blackened and die back. If 
neglected, the whole of the foliage assumes a yellow colour 
and quickly falls. A tree thus defoliated, and with the young 
w^ood blasted, presents a most deplorable appearance. Though 
the spots above alluded to vary somewhat in shape with the 
position in which they are found, some being nearly circular 
in shape, the colour is sufficiently distinct for the fungus to be 
readily distinguished. 

Orange Rust appears to be much more prevalent than formerly, 
and certain varieties of the Rose are more liable to attack than 
are others. The smooth-leaved kinds enjoy the greatest immunity 
among Hybrid Perpetuals ; but the Teas, Noisettes, and the 
charming Bourbon Roses, like Souvenir de la Malmaison, are 
freer still. Stems and leaves are both attacked by Orange 
Rust fungus, which is characterised by lemon-yellow spots, 
varying in size with the season. Towards summer, however, the 
colour changes to a brick-red, and ultimately in autumn to 
black. 

In all three cases spraying early in the season with sulphide 
of potassium {\oz. to the gallon of water), will be beneficial, and 
especially if all leaves, shoots, and fruits are burned. Powdered 
sulphur, if shaken on when the leaves are damip in the morning, 
will also be of assistance. Mildew will not put in an appear- 
ance if the plants are sprayed with the well-known Bordeaux 
Mixture when the growths are a few inches long, and again 
before the buds expand. The Bordeaux Mixture is not a 
cure for fungoid attacks, but is a splendid preventive if applied 
before any mildew appears. Actino7iema rosce, especially, should 



134 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



be taken in hand directly it is obsen-ed, as it spreads ver\- 
rapidly, and is fatal to the rosarian's chances of success. 

Rose Galls. — The presence of these excrescences, often of 
large size, upon Rose-trees both wild and cultivated, is usually 
pazzling to the gardener. The most conspicuous is the Rose 
Bede guar (Fig. 65), a leaf-gall of large size, and conspicuous 
by reason of the long red or green hairs. It is due to the 




Fig. 65. — Stages in the Life-History of the Bedeguar Gaxe. 

punctures of one of the Gall-flies {Rhodiies rosce), a 
puzzling lot of extremely minute insects. These creatures 
puncture the parts in the process of egg-laying, and the 
movements of the larvfe, combined with the exudations, affect 
the tissues of growing cells which are capable of further 
division. This is the theory of the late Professor Riley, 
who paid considerable attention to this most intricate but 
interesting subiect. In the illustration (Fig. 65), i is the Bedeguar 



ox ROSES. 



Gall, natural size : 2 is the Gall shown in section with the 
various woody cells in position : 3 shows the larvas inhabitants 
of such cellS; with the front part of the creatures much magnified 
at 4; 5 is the pupa, and 6 the perfect insect (both much 
magnified). There are some halfia-dozen other Galls, but none 
so worthy of a short notice as the Rose Bedeguar. The Galls 
do practically no harm to the trees. 




Rose Reixe Marie Hexriette. 

CFrom a Photograph by Richmond & Peto, Lustleigh, S. Dn:on.) 




The " Queen of Autumn " is a term frequently employed in 
speaking of the Chrysanthemum, and certainly the title is most 
appropriate, as for a gorgeous display and wealth of colour, 
when in flower, few plants will compare with it. Not only so, 
but its culture does not require any special skill, except for 
exhibition purposes. 

Not one of the Japanese sorts grown twenty years ago is 
met with now for exhibition or for any other purpose, and their 
names have practically disappeared from even Chrysanthemum 
specialists' catalogues. With the Incurved section, very few 
indeed of those most valued a quarter of a century ago are 
now considered worth cultivating. In the Anemone section there 
has likewise been the same advance ; while the Early-flowering 
varieties, of which there is such a magnificent selection, were 
practically unknown. The same also applies to the Single and 
the Hirsute varieties, the Single sorts in many instances being 
very pretty and most useful for cutting. In the Pompone and 
Reflexed sections there is the least advance, and it is a ques- 
tion if the last-named will ever become favourites. Sufficient, 
however, has been said to show how the Chrysanthemum has 
been improved and beautified by hybridisers, and also by 
importations from Japan, until it would almost seem as if no 
further improvement could be effected ; in fact, there appears 
to be a danger of the varieties developing into coarseness and 
a size too large to be really serviceable. 



ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



Late or November=flowering Varieties. 

Cultivation. — Twenty-five years ago even the most enthusiastic 
admirer of the Chrysanthemum would hardly have ventured to 
anticipate the popularity this section has attained, or the 
enormous number of varieties that have sprung into existence, 
or yet again the immense improvement which has taken 
place in the size, form, and colour of the flowers, with a 
comparatively dwarf habit. Strange to say, however meritorious 
a variety may prove when first put on the market, there 
seems to be always something better introduced every few 
years, and consequently old favourites are continually falling out 
of the ranks and sinkins: into oblivion. One of the causes of 

O 

this disappearance is the constant propagation of stock from 
one's own plants, combined with high feeding to get large size 
or an abundance of flowers. Several large srowers plant out all 
their varieties with a view to increase or improve their stamina, 
and thus obtain better cuttings than those taken from pampered 
pot plants. A still better plan is to procure cuttings from a 
distance where the conditions, as regards soil and situation, are 
totally different. Plants raised from these cuttings almost in- 
variably produce far superior flowers to those obtained from 
home-grown ones. In all vegetable crops the benefits arising 
from a change of stock may be noticed, and such changes 
apply with equal force to flowering plants. 

When cuttings are received from a long distance they are 
almost always somewhat limp. In such cases they should be 
placed in lukewarm water for an hour ; this will freshen them up 
and make them in good condition for potting. Opinions 
naturally differ as to how they should be inserted, and also the 
temperature in which they ought to be placed. AMthout entering 
into details of all the various methods adopted in propagating, 
the following may be quoted as one which has always proved 
entirely satisfactory. In November, or as early in December as 
the cuttings become large enough, take those growths that 
spring from the soil (not those on the stem, unless the stock is 
short), selecting those that are short, sturdy, and with good 
foliasre. Carefullv cut away the two lower leaves and insert the 
cuttings at once singly in small "sixties." These should be 
well drained and filled with a compost of leaf-mould and 
loam in equal proportions, with sufficient sand added to make 
the whole porous. Immediately after the cuttings are put in 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



a thorough soaking should be given to settle the soil about 
them, and also to prevent the foliage from drooping. A low pit 
or frame, with a hot-water pipe round, is an excellent place to 
stand them, maintaining a temperature of 45deg., and keeping 
the place closed until the cuttings have rooted. If air is 
admitted by ventilation before the rooting process is completed, 
the foliage will be sure to flag, an evil always to be avoided. 
If the sun comes out brightly, it is an excellent plan to lightly 
damp the foliage overhead with a syringe ; this tends to keep 
the leaves plump. 

The process of rooting will vary considerably. Some varieties 
make roots very quickly, while others are very slow. Those 
that strike first should be removed to a cooler and more airy 
position, but safe from frost. The plants should be kept close 
to the glass to obtain all the light possible and induce a sturdy 
habit ; unless this is done, particularly while the days are short, 
the plants become drawn and weakly. Watering, again, is a 
very important matter. To achieve success the plants should 
never suffer from lack of water from the time of their insertion 
as cuttings until after they have flowered. At the same time, 
continued saturation must be avoided. It is by close attention 
to detail that many leading Chrysanthemum growers have 
attained fame. 

By the end of March the cuttings will have filled their pots 
with roots, and should be potted into 5in. size, draining 
carefully, and covering the drainage with moss, to keep it free. 
At this potting the compost should consist of three parts good 
fibrous loam and one part well-decayed leaf-mould or spent 
horse-droppings, with a 5in. potfull of fine bone-meal to every 
barrow-load of soil, thoroughly mixing the whole. If the loam 
is of a very heavy character, a little silver sand may be added ; 
but it is advisable not to make the soil too light. Press the 
soil moderately firm, and leave a space about ^in. deep at 
the top of the pot for water. If the plants are watered well a 
little time before potting, it will not be necessary to water 
them again for a day or so. When it is necessary, give a good 
soaking, using a fine rose on the pot in order to avoid dis- 
placement of the soil. 

After potting, a cold frame, with the floor covered with coal- 
ashes, is the most suitable place for the plants, but still keeping 
them close to the glass, and also somewhat close for a few 
days until the roots have started taking possession of the new 



ox CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



soil. Afterwards air may be admitted freely on warm or sunny 
days; in fact, when the weather is very mild, the lights may 
with advantage be taken right off. Any attempt at coddling will 
end in leggy plants, with no foliage at their base. Towards the 
end of April the lights may be left off the frames entirely except 
in very cold weather, and by the middle of ]May the plants may 
be stood outside in an open sunny position. By the end of 
May or early in June the plants may be transferred to their 
flowering pots. If required for exhibition, Sin. pots will be quite 
large enough ; but if extra large plants are required for quantities 
of cut blossoms or conservatory decoration, loin. or even larger- 
sized pots may be employed. The compost at this final potting 
should consist of three parts rich fibrous loam and one part dry 
horse-droppings, with a 7 in. potfull of bone-meal to each large 
barrow-load of soil : or failing bone-meal a similar quantity of 
Thomson's Manure may be used instead. The drainage of the 
pots ought to be carefully arranged (inverted oyster shells are 
first rate) and covered with moss, while a sprinkling of soot will 
keep out worms for a considerable period. The soil should be 
rammed moderately hard, and must not fill the pot. A space of 
2in. or 3in. at the top should be allowed for a top-dressing later on. 

From this time onwards, the plants will demand constant 
attention in watering, staking, and tying, and ample space should 
he provided for each plant. A very good position for them 
is by the side of a sunny walk, in a single line. By having 
stakes driven in at intervals, with stout string running from 
each other, the plants may be securely tied thereto, and thus 
prevented from being blown down or injured by strong winds, 
while the sun and light have full play upon both sides of 
the plants, ensuring thorough ripening of the wood. Some 
growers advise giving no liquid or other manures until the 
flower-buds have formed, but a little weak liquid manure, or a 
top-dressing of soot or soot-water, certainly improves the health 
and colour of the growth. Immediately the flower-buds are 
formed, a mulch of fibrous loam and decayed manure, in equal 
proportions, will prove highly beneficial, and from the time of 
the flower-bud formation until the flowers begin to expand 
frequent applications of diluted liquid manure, or some of the 
prepared chemical manures, will be very serviceable, bearing 
in mind that the roots can only take up or use a limited 
amount of plant-food, and any great excess above their require- 
ments is likely to do more harm than good. 



140 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Stopping, bud-taking, &c., are full of mystery to the 
novice, but they are comparatively simple matters, and depend 
a great deal upon the purpose for which the plants are 
grown. If for exhibition blossoms, the writer has found it 
best not to pinch or stop the shoots at all, but at each 
break to select from three to five of the strongest and best 
shoots, and rub out all the others. About the middle of 
August, or from then to early in September, these growths 
form buds (termed crown buds), and all except the centre or 
largest bud are pinched out. If these buds form in July or 
very early in August, they are too early for exhibition in November ; 
consequently, they are taken out, and another shoot is made, 
which produces a " terminal," or second crown, bud. 

A very great difference exists between these crown and terminal 
buds ; in many cases the colour is quite distinct on the same 
plant, as may be proved by allowing one shoot to produce a 
crown, and one. a terminal bud. For this reason, some varieties 
are best from one, and some from the other. In describing the 
sorts for exhibition, it will be noticed that it is stated which is 
the best bud to choose. If possible, the buds should all be 
secured by the end of August. Very fine blossoms are obtained 
from buds formed early in September, but there is always a 
risk of their not being in time, and also a doubt as to their 
proving up to the exhibition standard. Immediately the buds 
are formed, it is advisable to lightly spray the plants with 
Bordeaux Mixture to prevent mildew or other fungoid attacks. 

At the end of September or early in October, the plants 
may be placed in a cool, light, airy house, where a little fire- 
heat may be turned on to expel damp, especially in dull or 
foggy weather. Plenty of ventilation should be given when- 
ever the weather is favourable, and any needless spilling of water 
about the house ought to be avoided, otherwise it will be apt 
to cause the flowers to "damp." While the blossoms are expanding 
it will be necessary to pull out a few of the petals, as some are 
almost sure to be awkward or out of place, and would, if allowed 
to remain, spoil the symmetry of a blossom. 

When fully developed, an Incurved flower should be deep, full ' 
in the centre, towards w4iich all the petals should incurve, and 
be also fresh and of good colour. The Japanese section should 
have all their flowers deep, wide, with good petals, and well 
coloured. The same applies in a lesser degree to the Reflexed ; 
while the Anemone section ought to have the centre, or cushion, 



ON CHRYSAXTHEMUMS. 



141 



well developed, free from petals, and the outer florets or guard- 
petals in a well-formed circle round the cushion. 

The dressing of flowers for exhibition is extensively practised 
by Chrysanthemum growers, and consists in the early removal 
of all malformed or useless petals. For instance, in an Incurved 
blossom some of the petals are ill-formed or twisted, and if 
allowed to remain would spoil an otherwise good flower; and 
the same applies to the Anemone section. Ivory tweezers and 
a fine small brush are employed to curl and fix the petals in 
a correct and symmetrical form. AVith a little practice on spare 
flowers it will not be found difficult to arrange the petals 
properly and thus improve the appearance of the flowers, 
although perhaps a little reducing them in size. 

In arranging the blossoms on the exhibition-boards, the finest 
or largest flowers should be at the back, the colours so 
arranged as to give the best efl'ect, and the blossoms raised 
sufficiently to show their depth and true character. Good 
taste, neatness, and punctuality in staging, are quite as requi- 
site to the man who would become a successful exhibitor as 
fine flowers. 

For the supply of cut flowers, or for plants intended only for 
decorative purposes, the details of culture are a little difl'erent 
from those which obtain when dealing with plants for exhibition. 
To furnish flowers in November, the cuttings should be "struck" 
or rooted as advised in November ; but for flowers at Christmas 
and the New Year, January is soon enough to put in cuttings, 
growing them on sturdfly as previously suggested, and also 
potting them similarly ; but, instead of waiting for the plants 
to branch out naturally, it is advisable to pinch out points of 
the shoots several times to obtain dwarf and bushy specimens. 
All stopping or pinching of the shoots should, however, cease by 
the end of July, Proper attention to staking must, of course, be 
paid; and when the plants form their flower-buds in September, 
it is wise to cut away all the buds except three or four on each 
shoot. If all the buds were left, the lower ones on each 
shoot would fail to open except in the case of the Pompones ; 
with these all the buds should be retained. It will be found 
that this early cutting-out of useless buds greatly improves the 
quality of the flowers, making them more valuable for home 
use or for market. 

The remarks already made on feeding, mulching, and spraying 
with a fungicide are applicable to bush-plants ; in fact, to grow 



142 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



any Chrysanthemums thoroughly well, freedom from insect or 
fungoid pests and generous treatment are absolutely essential. 
In pinching or taking out the tops of the Japanese varieties in 
April or May, it is well to cut the shoots back 2in. or 3in. 
These points make splendid cuttings, and will root readily if 
placed in a cool close frame, in the compost already described. 
Immediately it is observed that the cuttings have rooted, ventila- 
tion should be given gradually, and the plants kept strong and 
short-jointed, pinching out all side-shoots as they appear, and 
only permitting one stem to grow. When the cutting-pot is well 
filled with roots, a shift into a 5 in. or 6in. pot should be 
given ; in this the plant should flower. By confining the growth to 
one stem, a short, strong plant, about ift. high, and with one 
large, well-coloured flower at the top, will be the result. These 
little plants are very useful for room-decoration, as they fit very 
well into vases, and continue fresh for a week or longer. 
More than one flower-bud will form, but all except the largest 
and best buds should be removed. 

By sowing seed there is always a chance of raising new 
varieties equal to, and sometimes distinct from, existing varieties. 
Most of the leading seedsmen now advertise seed for sale. The 
best time to sow is in January or February, placing it in gentle 
heat to germinate, and afterwards keeping the seedlings close to 
the glass. Potting should be done as often as necessary, until 
finally the plants are in yin. or 8in pots, in which they should 
flower. It is always advisable to pot all the seedlings, however 
weak and delicate they may appear, as there is often the very 
best amongst the weakest, and to throw such away as worthless 
might be the means of discarding the only good variety in the 
whole batch. On the other hand, equally as satisfactory varieties 
occasionally originate from strong and moderately strong-growing 
varieties, showing the uncertainty of pinning faith to either strong 
or weak ones as the most likely to produce anything specially 
noteworthy. As a rule, the blossoms the first year are very 
disappointing, the major .portion of the flowers coming single 
and semi-double, and a novice would probably throw them all 
away ; this is a mistake to be avoided, for out of a large 
quantity raised from seed, the writer has never found a really 
good flower the first year. The better plan is to carefully select 
those combining good colour and width of flower with the largest 
number of petals or florets, and from such take cuttings in 
November, growing them on in the usual manner. If any of 



ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



^43 



them are of merit, they v^'ill show their true character in the 
second year, and the grower can decide if they are worth retaining. 

From careful observations made, it seems that about ten years 
is the life of an exhibition variety in the Japanese class. In 
fact, it must be a very good variety indeed to stand as long 
as that on the show table ; but with all other classes it is more 
difficult to raise new varieties of such merit as will entitle them 
to a place on the ex- 
hibition stands ; conse- 
quently, they retain 
their hold upon the 
public for a much 
longer period. For con- 
venience of reference, 
each section or class 
is described separately, 
commencing with the 
Japanese. The follow- 
ing are mostly new 
and splendid varieties 
for exhibition : 

Japanese. — Annie 
Prevost, pure white, 
with good wide incurv- 
ing florets ; the plant 
has a strong dwarf 
habit; height 3ft. Aus- 
tralie, soft amaranth ; 
florets broad and long; 
a grand exhibition 
variety : crown bud. 
Beauty of Adelaide, 
mauve -pink ; florets 
long and deep ; crown 

bud. Beauty of Thrumpton, rich rosy-purple, with reflexed 
florets ; flowers of large size and good form ; height 4^ft. 
Bellem, clear pink ; florets incurving ; very handsome ; terminal 
bud. Boule d'Or, beautiful straw colour ; florets broad, deep, 
and incurved ; crown bud. Charles Davis, bronzy-buff shade ; 
a grand flower, with long, straight florets ; crown bud. C. B. 
Haywood, white ; long, stiff florets ; immense flower ; crown 
or terminal buds. C. Harman Payne, dark purple ; florets 




Fig. 66. — Chrysanthemum. Edith Tabor. 



144 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



long and somewhat coarse ; an enormous flower from a crown 
bud. C. W. Richardson, lovely yellow ; florets long and beauti- 
fully curled ; terminal bud. Dakota, deep yellow, the florets 
being mixed up together in a most attractive form; height 



long 



and 



very 



"t. Duke of Wellington, salmon-buff ; florets 
broad ; splendid terminal bud. Edith Dashwood, delicate pink 
or rose, with very long florets, which are gracefully twisted ; a 



very pretty, 



large 



variety ; 



height 



jft. Edith Tabor (Fig. 06), 




long, 



Fig. 67.— Chrysanthemum Golden Shower 



golden-yellow 
height 4^ft. 

narrow, 



long, 



florets broad and slightl} 
Golden Shower 
and drooping ; 



lemon - yellow ; florets 
broad, and deep : crown bud. 
Emily Towers, rosy-pink, with 
a silver centre to the 
florets, which are beau- 
tifully twisted, forming 
a deep fine flower; 
height 4ft. Ernest Can- 
nell, deep fawn : florets 
deep, broad, and in- 
curved : very fine : 
crown bud. Edwin 
Molyneux, rich deep 
crimson, with golden 
reverse ; one of the 
finest varieties when 
well grown ; crown bud. 
Etoile de Lyon, lilac- 
rose; florets long, broad, 
and reflexed; enormous 
flower ; crown or ter- 
minal bud, though 
usually the best colour 
is found on the ter- 
minal bud. Florence 
Davis, white, wath 
green centre ; fine 
form ; crow^n bud. 
George Foster, rich 
twisted as they incurve ; 
(Fig. 67), fiery yellow^; florets 
flowers small, but valuable for 



decoration: height Graphic, rosy-mauve; florets* twisted 

and incurving; terminal bud. Henry Weeks, bright rich crimson; 



ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS, I45 

florets broad ; a grand flower : height 4ft. Herbert J. Cutbush, 
deep red, marked with yellow ; a good front row flower ; crown 
bud, H. J. Jones, intense crimson : florets flat, broad, and 
handsome ; height 4^ft. John Pockett, a mixture of rich crimson 



1 

! 




Fig. 68. — Chrysanthemum Mr. A. G. Hubbuck. 



and bright bronze ; a deep and beautiful flower ; height 4ft. 
Joseph Chamberlain, very rich crimson, with a golden reverse to 
the broad florets ; a seedling from E. Molyneux, with a better 
habit and finer flower than its parent ; height 4^ft. Julia Scara- 
manza, bronzv terra-cotta ; florets long and deep ; crown bud. 

L 



146 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



King of Buffs, salmon-buff ; very large, and of good form and 
substance ; crown bud. Lady Crawshaw, white, faintly shaded 
with pink, the florets being beautifully twisted; height 5ft. Lady 
E. Clarke, pure white sport from Mrs. C. Harman Payne, and, 
hke its parent, of large size ; height 5^ft. Lady Hanham, golden 
rosy-cerise ; a splendid variety ; crown bud. Little Nell, pure 
white ; florets broad and deep ; a fine acquisition ; height 5ft. 
Mr. A. G. Hubbuck (Fig. 68), chestnut-red, with gold reverse ; 
very fine ; crown bud. Mdlle. Therese Rey, ivory-white ; splendid 
when well grown ; crown bud. Madame Carnot, pure white ; very 
large ; one of the best ; crown bud. Mrs. H. Weeks (Fig. 69), 
pure white, suffused with pink; a large fine flower; height 7ft.; 

crown bud ; a late 
variety. Mrs. G. W. 
Palmer, deep bronze : 
immense flower, with 
broad florets ; crown 
bud. Mrs. Hermann 
KIoss, deep orange, 
almost bronze ; very 
large ; crown bud. 
Mrs. C. E. Shea, 
creamy-white; florets 
curled and twisted ; 
very fine ; crown 
bud. Mrs. J. Beggs, 
soft pink ; a deep, 
massive, new variety, 
of great promise ; 
crown bud. Mrs. 
W. H. Lees, white, 
tinged with pink ; a 
deep and imposing 
flower ; crown bud. 
M. Chenon de 
Leche, deep rose ; 
YiG. 69.— Chrysanthemum Mrs. H. Weeks, florets long and 

drooping ; extra 

good ; crown bud. Mrs. Coombes, rosy-mauve ; florets long 
and drooping ; an immense flower that should prove valuable 
for exhibition ; height 4^ft. Mrs. Ritson, a magnificent pure 
white sport from Viviand Morel ; this variety promises to be 




ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



constant in character ; height 4ft. Mrs. W. Mease, a sulphur- 
yellow sport from Madame Carnot ; height 4|ft. Mrs. White 
Popham, white, shaded with carmine ; florets long, drooping, and 
handsomely twisted ; 
height 5 ft. Mons. 
Pankoucke (Fig. 70), 
clear yellow; a large 
deep flower ; height 
4ft. ; crown bud. 
Moor Park, golden-bufl", 
marked with crimson ; 
a deep flower, with long 
twisted florets ; height 
4^ft. Mons. Fatyer, 
soft yellow ; very large 
and handsome ; height 
4^ft. Nina Dabbs, 
deep yellow, slightly 
shaded with green ; 
florets broad and 
spreading ; a large and 
deep flower; height 5ft. 
Nellie Pockett, creamy- 
white ; florets long, 
rather narrow, and 
twisted ; a deep and 
lovely flower ; height 
5ft. Niveus, probably 
the purest white ; a 
lovely flower, of good 
size ; crown bud. Ny- 
anza, dark crimson ; 

florets incurved ; must be well grown ; crown bud. Olive Oclee, 
rich deep bronze ; florets incurved ; good on crown or terminal 
buds. Owen's Memorial, rich crimson-red; florets broad, drooping, 
and slightly twisted ; very large ; height 4ft. Ponderosum, white ; 
flowers of immense width and depth ; terminal bud. Phoebus, a 
charming yellow ; florets long and reflexed ; crown bud. Pride of 
Madford, crimson-cerise ; a beautifully-formed flower ; crown 
bud. Royal Standard, deep crimson; flower of fine substance; 
very promising ; crown bud. R. Hooper Pearson, one of the best 
of all the yellow varieties, and of dwarf, sturdy habit in growth ; 

L 2 




Fig. 70. 



-Chrysanthemum Mons. 
Pankoucke. 



148 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 




a decided acquisition; height 3ft. R. J. Upton, canary-yellow; 
florets long and flat; large and distinct; height 5ft. Snowdon' 
pure white; of great size and beauty; crown bud. Swanley 
Giant, lilac-pink; florets incurving; massive; crown bud. Vicar 
of Bray, crimson, shading to orange; very fine; crown bud. 

Viviand Morel, blush-mauve; 
an indispensable variety ; 
crown or terminal buds. 
What Ho ! (Fig. 71), a semi- 
double flower of most curious 
form ; the creamy-white florets 
of great length, that twist 
towards the points ; height 
5^ft. Yellow Madame Carnot 
this has all the excellent 
qualities of the white form; 
crown bud. 

Some of the above varieties 
being only suitable for pro- 
viding very large exhibition- 
blossoms, the following are 
named as excellent for supply- 
ing medium - sized flowers, 
most useful for cutting or 
decorative purposes. A lengthy 
description is unnecessary, 
and only the habit and 
colour of flower of each variety 
are given. 

Annie Clibran, pink ; me- 
dium height. Bouquet de 
Dame, pure white ; dwarf. 
Elaine, pure white ; medium 
height; early. Etoile de Lyon 
(Fig. 72), lilac-rose; medium 
height. Florence Percy, white; 
medium height. Gaspard Bou- 
charlat, deep orange ; medium height. Golden Dart, buttercup- 
yellow ; dwarf ; very late. King of Plumes, deep yellow ; medium 
height. L. Canning, pure white ; dwarf ; very late. Lady Selborne, 
white; medium height; early. Madame Walker, rosy-mauve; rather 
tall ; flowers quilled. Mdlle. Lacroix, white ; medium height ; 




Fig. 71. — Chrysanthemum 



What Ho! 



I 



ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. I49 

a favourite. Margot (Fig. 73), blush-white; dwarf habit. Mr. 
Chas. E. Shea, yellow sport from Mdlle. Lacroix. M. Freeman, 
rosy-pink ; dwarf. Owen's Brilliant, deep crimson ; medium 
height. Roseum Superbum, salmon-pink ; tall. Source d'Or, deep 
bronze ; medium height. W. Robinson, salmon-orange ; tall. 
W. Holmes, deep crimson ; dwarf. 

Hairy Varieties. — The Hirsute or Hairy Chrysanthemum has 
recently not only increased in the number of varieties, but also 
in popular favour, and no doubt special classes will ere long 




Fig. 72. — Chrysanthemum Etoile de Lyon. 



be allotted to this section at some of the leading shows. At 
present, if shown at all, they are staged in the Japanese 
classes, deep blossoms of good colour always counting their full 
number of points when judged. The following are all distinct 
varieties, and the plants of vigorous habit : Abbe Pierra Arthur, 
pure white; petals long and usually drooping ; a fine large 
flower. Belle des Gordes, rich rosy-red ; florets nicely incurved ; 
fine. Captain L. Chaure, yellow ; florets incurved ; a large massive 
flower. Esau, salmon-blush, shading to yellow ; a pretty variety. 
Gold Dust, golden-yellow; florets incurved; a very pleasing flower; 



15° 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



plants dwarf. Golden Hair, golden-yellow, the florets being very 
hairy. Hairy Wonder (Fig. 74), reddish-bronze; the most 
massive and best hirsute variety. Louis Boehmer, a shade of 
purplish-pink ; very hairy ; good habit, Madame M. Marchant, 
rosy-pink ; large flower, and plant of sturdy habit. Midnight, 
bronze ; flower very large and very hairy. Mrs. C. B. Freeman, 
golden-yellow sport from Louis Boehmer. Mrs. W. J. Godfrey, 
probably the best white hirsute variety; good habit. M. Fernand 
Bertin, white, shading to red ; a large, bold flower. Souvenir 
de I'Ami Coye, white ; of good size, and dwarf sturdy habit. 




Fig. 73. — Chrysanthemum Margot. 



LoA'PCA' F tchii^Ig Co 



Singles. — These are particularly serviceable for cut flowers, 
being light, graceful, and remarkably free-flowering. A few 
varieties should be grown in every garden. Their culture is 
identical with that already described for bush plants. It may be 
stated that the Single Chrysanthemum flowers usually continue 
fresh longer than the other sections, and damping of the flowers 
very rarely occurs, even in bad weather. Alice, white, with yellow 
disk ; large. Annie Heard, white, yellow disk ; dwarf. Dolly 
Varden, rosy-pink ; flowers small, and produced in great clusters ; 



ON CHRYSANTHEMUMF. 



very dwarf. Dorothy Wooderson, soft pink ; large. D. Windsor, 
chestnut ; large and fine. Emily Wells, lovely clear pink ; very 
pretty ; rather small. Eucharis, pure white ; large beautiful flower ; 
very dwarf Framfield Beauty, deep crimson; extra good. Golden • 
Star, pure yellow ; large and excellent. Kate Hawthorn, one of 
the finest yellows ; splendid. Mary Anderson, white, tinged with 




Fig. 74. — Chrysanthemum Hairy Wonder. 

pink ; small and pretty. Miss Rose, soft pink ; small and lovely. 
Mrs. A. E. Stubbs (Fig. 75), pure white; of fine form 
and great beauty; height 3ft. Rev. W. E. Remfrey, deep 
crimson ; excellent. Terra Cotta, terra-cotta ; dwarf, and very 
free. 

Incurved. — Except for purposes of exhibition, these beautiful, 
though somewhat formal-shaped, flowers are losing ground ; 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



in fact, the Japanese have almost ousted the Incurved from 
many gardens. Though it must be admitted that the less formal 
Japanese class are the more beautiful, it is more difficult to 




Fig. 75.— Chrysanthemum Mrs. A. E. Stubbs. 

grow a really deep, well-formed flower of an Incurved variety 
than it is to produce a fine Japanese blossom. Not only is con- 
siderable cultural skill requisite, but a knowledge of dressing 
or petal manipulation is essential to have Incurved blossoms 



ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



sufficiently good in character to put on the exhibition table 
successfully. In the list of varieties only those suitable for 
show purposes are named, with the bud that usually gives the 
best flower : Alfred Salter, lilac ; a deep, well-formed flower ; 
must be grown strongly ; crown bud. Austin Cannell, purple 
maroon ; large, and of good form ; crown bud. Baron Hirsch, 
chestnut-red ; a well-formed, large flower ; crown bud. Bonnie 
Dundee (Fig. 76), beautiful orange shade ; a perfect flower when 
well grown ; terminal bud. 
C. B. Whitnall, purple ; fine 
form ; the crown bud should 
be selected early in August. 
Chas. H. Curtis, rich yellow; 
extra good, and indispens- 
able ; crown or terminal 
buds. D. B. Crane, bronze- 
buff; deep flower, of good 
form ; terminal bud. Duchess 
of Fife, white ; a splendid 
new variety, full of promise ; 
crown bud. Empress of 
India, pure white ; a magni- 
ficent flower, but must be 
grown well ; crown bud. 
George Haigh, carmine-rose, 
shaded with yellow ; deep 
flower, of good shape ; crown 
bud. J. Agate, pure white ; 
deep flower, of splendid 
form ; crown bud. Jeanne 
d'Arc, white, tipped with 
purple ; a deep flower, of 
medium size ; crown bud. 




Fig 



76. — Chrysanthemum 
Bonnie Dundee. 



a large flower, of good form 
pale buff" ; a deep and fine 
crown bud. Lucy Kendall, 
flower; crown bud. Lord 



John Fulford, reddish-crimson ; 

terminal bud. John Lambert, 
flower ; must be grown strong ; 
coral-red ; a pretty, well-formed 
Alcester, pale primrose; splendid 



flower if grown strong ; crown bud. Lord Wolseley, bronzy- 
red ; a deep, well-shaped flower ; terminal or crown buds. 
Lord Rosebery, mauve ; large and telling flower ; terminal 
bud. Lyne, jun., golden-bronze ; of good form ; crown bud. 
Madame Darier, nankeen yellow ; extra good shape and size ; 



154 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



crown bud. Major Bonnaffon, much in the same form and 
colour as Chas. H. Curtis, and by many is considered synony- 
mous ; crown or terminal buds. Miss M. A. Haggas, prirhrose ; 
a lovely deep flower; crown bud. Mr. James Murray, bright 

pink ; a fine new variety, 
of good substance ; ter- 
minal bud. Mrs. F. W. 
Flight, white ; a deep 
massive flower, well in- 
curved ; crown bud. Mrs. 
Heale, white ; a medium- 
sized and perfect flower; 
crown bud. Mrs. R. C. 
Kingston, soft pink or 
mauve ; blossoms of large 
size; crown bud. Prince 
Alfred, rosy-carmine ; an 
old variety still worth 
growing ; crown bud. 
Princess of Wales, blush ; 
only good when well grown, then 
it is fine ; crown bud. Queen 
of England, blush; a splendid 
flower when strongly grown ; 
crown bud. Robert Cannell, 
deep bronzy -red ; very fine 
form ; crown buds ; late. Robert 
Petfieldj silvery-mauve ; large 
flower, well incurved ; terminal 
bud. Sir Trevor Lawrence, 
pure white ; a massive flower, 
of good shape ; crown bud. 
The Egyptian, deep red; very 
large; a new variety of promise. 
William Tunnington, reddish- chestnut ; must be grown strong ; 
terminal bud. 

Reflexed. — The true Reflexed Chrysanthemum has usually a 
moderately large flower, with the florets or petals straight and 
reflexing towards their points. It is neither so ornamental nor so 
useful as most of the other classes ; and although some of the 
varieties are well adapted for making a display in the conservatory, 
they are not much admired. Only those varieties suitable for 




Fig. 



-Chrysanthemum 



Golden Christine. 



ox CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



developing nice sturdy plants, with, a floriferous habit, are men- 
tioned. If four buds are retained at the point of each shoot, and 
all the others are removed, the plant will make a very good display 
for several weeks. Boule de Neige, pure white ; valuable for its 
late flowering. Chevalier Domage, deep yellow : a well known 
old favourite. Clara Jeal, pure white ; a new and very pleasing 
variety. CuUingfordii, crimson-scarlet; should be grown for its 
freedom and fine colour. Dorothy Oxberry, soft pink : a pleasing 
colour. Felicity, creamy-white ; wonderfully free-flowering and of 
good habit Golden Christine (Fig. 77), golden-buff": a well- 
known old favourite, formerly much grown. King of Crimsons, 
rich dark crimson ; dwarf habit. Miss Florence Lunn, light 
amaranth: flowers large and very full. Progne, amaranth; \iolet- 




FiG. 78. — Chrysaxthemum Pixk Christixe. 



scented ; small flower ; very free. Phidias, rose-blush ; dwarf, 
and an abundant blossomer. The White, Pink (Fig. 78), and 
Peach Christine varieties are all three well worth growing, being 
of dwarf habit and free flowering. 

Anemones. — These may be divided into three sections — 
Japanese, Large, and Pompones, the first being the most 
admired, and also the most extensively cultivated.' To have 
very fine flowers of the first two sections the plants should 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



be carefully disbudded, leaving only one bud to each shoot ; 
but with the Pompone class no disbudding is either necessary or 
desirable. The plants of these latter should be pinched or 
stopped several times during growth to induce a bushy habit, 
to be covered later with a mass of small flowers. 

Japanese. — Belinda, disk rose, guard-petals dark crimson. 
Cinderella, pure white. Duchess of Westminster, disk pinkish- 
bronze, guard-petals blush. Fabian de Mediana, disk purple, 
guard-petals lilac. James Weston, white. Jeanne Marty, blush- 
white ; a very line full flower. Mabel Miller, white ; large and 
excellent, Madame Clos, disk white, guard-petals rose. Marsia 
Jones, one of the finest whites. Tvlr. Hugh H. Gardiner, deep 
ro_se ; very fine. Rider Haggard, deep rose and pink ; the largest 




Fig. 79. — Chrysanthemum Robin Adair. 

Japanese Anemone. Robin Adair (Fig. 79), blush-white, tinged 
with lilac ; an extra good variety. Souvenir de Madame 
Blandineries, a handsome crimson. Tarn O'Shanter, rosy- 
lilac ; a splendid flower. W. W. Astor, salmon-blush ; one 
of the best. 



ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 1 57 

Large. — Delaware (Fig. 80), white ; very large handsome flowers. 
Descartes, crimson, with very prominent disk ; a fine variety. 
Emperor, blush, with paler centre or disk ; large and good. 
Empress, blush, disk lilac ; prominent, and of good form. Geo. 




1 



Fig. 80. — Chrysanthemum Delaware. 

Hawkins, a lovely golden-yellow. Gluck, golden-yellow ; a well- 
known old variety. Lady Margaret, pure white, of fine shape ; 
a tall grower. Madame Robert Owen, pure white ; large and 
excellent ; dwarf habit. Miss Annie Low, a yellow Lady 
Margaret. Miss Caterer, pure white ; of splendid form and habit. 
Mrs. Judge Benedict (Fig, 81), pale flesh, with a prominent 
lemon disk ; an excellent variety ; height 3ft. Mrs. C. J. Salter, 
bufl"-orange ; pretty and efl'ective. Nouvelle Alveole, a shade of 
blush-lilac ; fine flowers. Robin Adair, blush, with a good disk ; 
fine flowers ; height 4ft. Stoneacre Gem, yellow, shading to red ; 
excellent. 

Pompones. — Astarte, amber and gold ; dwarf. Calliope, ruby- 
red ; very striking flower. Emily Rowbottom, creamy-white ; fine. 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Eric, deep orange-buff. Madame Montels, white, 3'ellow disk. 
Magenta King, magenta, yellow disk. Mr. Astie, golden-yellow ; 
dwarf. Perle, rosy-lilac. Reine des Anemones, white ; fine for 
cutting. Virginale, white ; rather large flower ; valuable for its 
lateness. 

PoMPONES. — This class, with its small flowers borne in great 
profusion, should find a place in every garden where Chrysan- 
themums are grown ; for not only are the plants of dwarf habit, and 




Fig. 81. — Chrysanthemum Mrs. Judge Benedict. 

covered with blossom, but the flowers, being small, can be em- 
ployed for purposes for which the large-flowered classes would be 
useless. A few of the best of this pretty section are as follow : 
Aurore Boreale, bronze-orange. Bob, very dark crimson. Cedo 
Nulli, white, golden, and lilac ; three very fine varieties. 
Comte de Morny, bright purple. Florence Carr, deep bronze. 
Harry Hicks, soft pink. La Purite, pure white ; very useful 
for wreaths, &c. Marion, deep orange. Our Fred, blush-pink. 
Prince of Orange, pale orange. Rosinante, blush ; very fine. 



ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 1 59 

Snowdrop, white ; remarkably small flower ; pretty. William Payne, 
deep orange ; dwarf and free. 

Early=Flowering Varieties. 

Though the early-flowering Chrysanthemums have not made the 
advance in public favour that they should have done, considering 
their great utiUty alike for garden decoration and for furnishing 
cut flowers for home use or for market, there is strong 
evidence that their merits are beginning to be more fully 
recognised, and that their culture is extending in all directions. 
In time, no doubt they will occupy much of the space now 
devoted to plants which neither produce such a good display in 
the flower garden, nor supply so many cut flowers for so long 
a period. 

Cultivation. — In forming a collection of early-flowering 
Chrysanthemums, it is always advisable to grow two lots of 
plants of the same varieties ; one in pots, and another outside 
in a nice sunny position. The former will be extremely useful 
for room or conservatory decoration, and should any of the 
plants outside prove tender and unable to withstand the rigour 
of winter, or fail to throw up cuttings for propagating, their 
stock may be grown from the pot plants, and the risk of losing 
choice varieties is reduced to a minimum. Unless duplicates 
are thus grown, it is practically certain that losses will occur 
amongst the outside plants, and usually most highly-prized 
varieties are those to disappear. 

With all early-flowering varieties the end of February or 
beginning of March will be quite soon enough to put in 
cuttings. If inserted earlier they seldom make such good or such 
floriferous plants as those put in later, which grow on freely 
without a check. In taking cuttings, it is always best to choose 
those shoots springing from the soil, avoiding those which may 
have formed on the stem below *where it was cut down; the 
latter never make such large or vigorous plants as those struck 
from suckers coming through the soil. In preparing the cuttings, 
carefully remove a few of the lower leaves, and then insert 
singly in small pots, properly drained, using a sandy compost of 
loam and leaf-mould, in equal proportions, thoroughly mixed. 
Press the soil firmly about the cutting, and immediately after- 
wards give a good watering, which tends to settle the soil, and 
to prevent the foliage from flagging. A close cold frame is a 
very suitable place to stand the pots in, keeping it quite close 



i6o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



until the cuttings are rooted, and beginning to grow. Every 
care should be taken to see that the plants have sufficient water. 

As soon as it is seen that the cuttings have taken root, air 
should be gradually admitted on all favourable occasions in order 
to keep the plants sturdy and strong. About the first week in 
April the plants may be shifted into larger pots (say large "sixties"). 
By the middle of May these pots will be full of roots, and the 
plants may be either transferred to the pots in which they are 
intended to flower, or they may be put out in a sunny place, 
where the soil has been deeply dug and well manured during 
the past winter. ' If potted, a compost of three parts fibrous 
loam and one part spent horse-droppings mixed together, with 
a little bone-meal added, will prove excellent. 

Naturally, some varieties are much taller than others, and in 
the list appended the average height of each is mentioned, indicating 
which sorts are best for back and front rows respectively. A 
fine effect may be produced by a judicious blending of colours ; 
or the beds in large gardens may be planted with one variety 
only, thus giving a mass of one colour, as is done in many of 
the large public parks. The plants should be supported by neat 
stakes early, otherwise many will be broken by the wind, and 
thus cause unsightly blanks in the beds. If the soil is rich 
and deep, and the plants are strong and healthy, 2^ft. or 3ft. 
between each will be a suitable distance : if the soil is poor or 
shallow, I ft. less space should be given. On all soils, however, 
it is advisable to make fresh plantations each year. 

The following varieties have proved most meritorious in a large 
collection : 

Japanese, or Large-Flowered. — Alfred Droz, soft 3-ellow : 
borne in profusion : height 2ft. Albert Chausson, orange-red : 
very fine in pots or beds : height 2^ft. Baronne G. C. de 
Brailles; pale pink; very large and fine; height 3ft. Coral Queen, 
lovely coral : a charming variety ; height 3ft. Crimson Queen, 
deep crimson ; a great favourite, and of fine habit ; height 2ft. 
Comtesse Toucher de Cariel, orange-yellow ; excellent and free ; 
height 2ft. De la Bouere, amaranth; large and fine; height 2ft. 
Dorcas, white ; bushy habit and free-flowering ; height 2ft. Edie 
Wright, pale pink, passing to white with age; excellent m every 
respect ; height 2ft. Edith Syratt, soft pink ; wonderfully free and 
dwarf; height i^ft. Gaspard Boucharlat, a lovely orange colour, 
produced in profusion ; height 2ft. General Hawkes, crimson- 
amaranth ; very free ; height 2ft. George Wermig, rich soft 



ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



l6l 



yellow ; a well-known old favourite; height 2jft. Harvest HomCy 
bronzy-red, tipped with gold ; very handsome and free ; height 
2|ft. Lady Fitzwygram, a splendid early white ; height 2ft. 
Madame Desgranges. white; well known for its excellence ; height 
2^ft. Madame Eulalie Morel, a beautiful cerise and gold; height 
3ft. Madame Marie Masse, lilac-mauve ; one of the best ;; 
height 2ft. Mytchett White, snowy white ; a magnificent 
variety; height i^ft. Prefet Cassagneau, deep crimson; fine 
habit; height 2ft. Ryecroft Glory, deep orange; most effective;, 
height i^ft. Sam Barlow, a charming salmon-pink; very free; 
height 3ft. The Don, lilac; profuse and early; height 2ft. Vice- 
President Hardy, deep red ; good habit ; height 34ft. 

PoMPONES. — The small compact-flowered Pompone varieties are 
greatly admired by many, and are extremely useful for cutting 
purposes, or for massing in beds. Amongst the many varieties in 
commerce, the following may be described as of high merit : 
Alice Butcher, red, shaded with orange ; excellent ; height 2^ft. 
Anastasio, pale purple ; very dwarf and bushy ; height i^ft. 
Blanch Colomb, ivory-white ; free and pretty ; height 2ft. Canari, 
yellow ; flowers in great abundance ; height i^ft. Early Blush, 
soft blush ; very fine variety ; height 2ft. Frederick Pele, crimson 
and gold ; makes an effective bed : height 3ft. Golden Fleece, 
straw-yellow ; one of the best of its colour ; height 2ft. L'Ami 
Conderchet, primrose; probably the best Pompone; height ift. 
Longfellow, pure white ; splendid for cutting or for beds ; height 
2^fr. Madame Jolivart, white, tinged with pink ; very pretty ; 
height 2ft. Mrs. CuUingford, white ; excellent ; height 3^ft. Miss 
Davis, soft pink ; a sport from Mrs. CuUingford, but dwarfer. 
Mr. Selley, a blush- white ; very pretty and effective; height ijft. 
M. Jules Paquet, white, and violet-rose; height ift. Piercy's 
Seedling, deep yellow ; wonderfully free ; height 2ft. Silversmith, 
white, of large size ; a most useful variety ; height 3ft. Strath- 
meath, a soft rosy-pink ; excellent ; height 2ft. Toreador, a rich 
crimson and gold ; height 2^ft. Yellow L'Ami Conderchet, 
deep yellow ; sport from L'Ami Conderchet. For further list 
of varieties, see "Appendix." 

Animal and Vegetable Diseases, &c. — Very few flowers 
with a popularity as great as the Chrysanthemum enjoys can 
boast such an immunity from pests. And it is this, as much as 
anything, which has caused the flower to be so enthusiastically 
taken up by the amateur. The most formidable which has 
asserted itself within recent years is the Chrysanthemum Leaf- 

M 



t62 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Rust, a pest which, if not dealt with as soon as noticed, will 
■cause serious trouble to the grower. Insects and several 
molluscs w^ill attack the blossoms, and in the case of exhibition 
plants, timely remedies must be employed, or after months of 
careful attention, the grower's fondest hopes will be rudely 
shattered. In this chapter it is only necessary to briefly note 
the chief offenders, and to call attention to the best means 
of dealing with, or preventing, such attacks in the future. 

Aphides.— 'T\\^^Q are amongst the most destructive insects 
infesting Chrysanthemums ; they multiply very rapidly, and 
quickly sap the very life from the plants. Frequently they are 
present in incredible numbers, though the "greenflies" at any 
l*ate approximate so closely to their surroundings, that they are 
not so readily seen as the " black fly " [Aphis ru7?iicis), which is 
also troublesome. Under glass, the new vaporising insecticides 
are the best remedies to employ : they are easily applied, and 
very effective and cheap. Before using any insecticide it will be 
well to remove any of the Ladybirds and their larvae, the leech- 
like larv^ of the Hawk-fly {Sy?phus lucorum), or even the gaily- 
apparelled if gauzy-looking Lacewing Flies. All these insects are 
working in man's best interests, and should be preserved. They 
are the natural enemies of Aphides, and they will consume vast 
numbers in a short time. Outdoors, a weak solution of carbolic 
soft soap will be sufficient to cleanse the plants of the " green- 
fly " and "black fly," both of which species, as already stated, 
are at times troublesome. This will be rendered more effective 
if applied luke-warm. 

Earwigs are most destructive at times to Chrysanthemum 
blossoms, and in a single night will disfigure the best of flowers, 
rendering them quite unfit for show. They should always be 
trapped with loosely-rolled tissue-paper, old dusters laid in the 
vicinity of the plants, or by means of an inverted flower-pot 
half-filled with hay and stood upon the stakes. It may here be 
stated that Earwigs, though as a rule vegetarians and destructive 
to many plants, occasionally forsake such a diet for one of 
flesh, and then they even render the gardener service by 
devouring aphides, thrips, and other injurious pests. 

Leaf-Mining Fly. — Occasionally the leaves of Chrysanthemums 
and closely-allied plants sufler from the attacks of that plague of 
the Marguerite-grower, Phytomyza nigricoi^nis. This fly deposits its 
eggs upon the foliage ; the larvae are in due time hatched out, 
and feed between the two surfaces. Their presence is revealed by 
a blister-like swelling and by white or light-coloured zigzag tracks 
over the leaves. Feeding as they do, the pests are difficult to 
eradicate by means of insecticides; but, by way of prevention, the 
leaves of the plants may be sprayed with a weak emulsion of 
paraffin or with a quassia-chip solution ; or fumigation will make 



ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



163 



the leaves distasteful to the perfect insect. The old-fashioned 
method of squeezing the insects between finger and thumb has 
much to recommend it. Occasionally plants are so badly attacked 
that nothing short of burning the infested leaves is of any use. 

Thrips are sometimes destructive to the shoots ; but they may 
be destroyed by syringing them with the preparation suggested 
for Aphides on outside plants. 

A7its are injurious to the buds, and will penetrate them if but 
a beginning has been made. They should be trapped by means 
of pieces of sponge dipped into a sweet liquid or some bones 
containing a little meat. In the latter case the insects should 
be brushed off into boiling water ; while in the former the 
sponge should be dropped into a vessel of boiling water. 

Cockroaches of several kinds attack the blossoms, though on 
account of their night-feeding propensities they are seldom seen, 
and less often suspected. Heat, however, being absolutely 
necessary to the welfare of these insects, it is only where this is 
applied that Cockroaches are really troublesome. The ranks of 
these insects have been considerably strengthened of late years 
by further introductions from abroad — all undesirable visitors 
because of their omnivorous tastes. Phosphorus paste or the 
Ballinkinrain preparation may be most serviceably employed in 
keeping down these insects. 

Woodlice. — Turning from the insects for a moment to crusta- 
ceans, the Chrysanthemum-grower has in Woodlice some very 
objectionable animals, as, like the Cockroaches, they will con- 
siderably damage the blossoms. As a rule, they are strong in 
numbers, and once thoroughly established they are difficult to 
oust. Vegetable traps in the form of sliced or hollowed potato, 
may be tried ; but usually flower-pots half filled with hay and 
turned upon their sides, are the most effective, as the Woodlice 
shelter there after their midnight revels, and may easily be 
shaken out and destroyed. More effective still is the trap where 
the inside of the pot is smeared with a sugary mixture com- 
posed of treacle, foot's-sugar, and beer. 

Slugs. — Certain members of yet another distinct family, the 
Mollusca (viz.. Slugs, &:c.), infest the Chrysanthemum, and take 
toll of the blossoms. Slugs are nocturnal, and should be enticed 
with bran or brewers' grains, and then collected and destroyed. 

Leather-Jackets. — These are the destructive larvae of the Crane- 
fly, or Daddy Long-legs. They abound in pastures and lands, 
and therefore they may be readily introduced with the potting- 
soil. They feed for a long time as larvae, and would quickly 
destroy the roots of any Chrysanthemum. The soil should 
therefore be carefully examined at potting-time, and if any of 
the insects are noticed they should be destroyed. 

M 2 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Leaf-Rust {Puccinia hieracii). — Within the last year or so 
growers of Chrysanthemums have suffered not a Httle from the 
ravages of this destructive rust-fungus. In several cases practi- 
cally whole collections have been destroyed, and in a great 
many more the loss has been extremely heavy. The generic 
name at once singles the pest out as a near relative of the 
much-dreaded Hollyhock fungus, and the specific one suggests 
that it is not the Chrysanthemum alone that it affects, but the 
Hawkweeds, many of which are among the commonest wayside 
flowers. It is necessary — indeed, important — to know this, as 
it to a certain extent accounts for the transference of the rust by 
various agencies from weeds to cultivated plants. Nor are the 
Hawkweeds alone host-plants of the pest. Burdock, Knapweed, 
Thistle, and Groundsel are quite as commonly infested. 

The rust is found occasionally on the upper surface as well as 
upon the under surface of the leaves, which after a time are 
found to be covered with a number of brownish spots of varying 
size. Sometimes such spots are separate, at others they coalesce, 
until practically the whole leaf is involved ; finally the leaf 
assumes a still more unhealthy hue — first yellow and then brown 
— and falls. Prior to this latter stage, however, the nuniberless 
spores which have formed have been distributed over an 
extended surface. Then it is that the parasite is readily carried 
by insect and other agencies into non-infected areas. In fact, a 
collection which, say a week or so before, presented a healthy 
appearance and without the slightest trace of fungus, could 
practically be ruined in that short time. First one plant, then 
another, becomes involved, and the collection goes from bad to 
worse. The actual time occupied by one of the spores in 
developing, once it has found a congenial resting-place, varies, 
but from eight to ten days at most would probably cover it. 

Here it may be well to state that the first manifestations of 
the disease to the gardener are usually the formation of the 
now familiar rust. Long ere this, however, the insidious pest 
has been working unseen on the leaf-tissues by means of 
mycelium. In fact, the "rust" is the outward and visible sign 
that one kind of fruit has been matured — that known as uredo- 
spores, or summer spores — and it is by means of this that the 
area of infestation is increased. And this is where the value of 
spraying comes in, as it prevents such spores as fall, or are 
carried upon the foliage, from germinating. 

If spraying with a fungicide be not adopted, then later in the 
year (towards autumn) another kind of spores are produced. 
These are named teleutospores. By means of these the plant- 
disease is usually carried over the winter, though in certain cases 
it may be continued by means of the summer spores. The 
grower would therefore be wise to burn such plants before they 
have arrived at the stage when the winter spores are formed It" 



ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS. 



165 



this be not done the teleutospores are dispersed in various 
ways, many faUing upon the soil. They will not germinate the 
same season, but they assuredly will do so in the ensuing spring, 
commencing again the cycle of life, unless the grower sprays 
his plants from the earliest times, as suggested below. 

There is absolutely no cure when once the Leaf-Rust fungus 
has asserted itself. It is, however, possible to stay its progress 
by spraying with sulphide of potassium (a common fungicide 
with rosarians and others), at the rate of loz. to 3galls. of water, 
used lukewarm. This will destroy the spores before they can 
enter the foliage. Affected plants should also be isolated. As a 
precautionary measure, too, growers would be well advised to 
spray periodically — say, every eight or ten days — throughout the 
season. Still, notwithstanding the spraying, some of the spores 
will doubtless find a suitable resting-place. Where, therefore, the 
disease has been knowm to exist, very great care should be 
exercised by the gardener in collecting every leaf and stem from 
plants which have been infested, and instead of consigning them 
to the rubbish-heap they should be burned, otherwise next season 
the chances are that a severer attack will be experienced. 

Mildew^ though not a formidable fungus disease like the 
one just described, is nevertheless undesirable, and has a 
debilitating effect upon its host-plant. Many growers are under 
the impression that certain atmospheric conditions are able to 
produce Mildew : in other w^ords, that a spontaneous origin is 
possible. Those, however, who have paid a little attention will 
know that while certain conditions will predispose to an attack, 
the Mildew usually found upon Chrysanthemums is due to the 
presence of a specific fungus, Oidiu??t chrysajifhe??ii, a relative of 
that pest of the Vine, Oidium Tuckeri. Powdered sulphur, or 
better still, spraying with sulphide of potassium of the strength 
recommended for Leaf-Rust, will be found effectual, especially if 
combined with plenty of light and air, and fluctuations of 
temperature are avoided. 

Leaf-Spot (^Septoria chrysanthemi) is a disfiguring and weakening 
fungus disease characterised by dark brown spots on the foliage. 
They are at first small, but gradually increase in size, and the 
leaves fall. Spraying, as before recommended, is the remedy. 

Damping. — The condition of the blossoms popularly described 
as " damping " is too well know^n. Frequently it is present with 
the Mildew attack above noted, the conditions of the atmosphere 
being favourable for the development of either. Chrysanthe- 
mums in foggy towms are more liable to the condition than those 
grow^n where fogs are comparatively light. An atmosphere sur- 
charged with moisture is also fatal, and therefore a buoyant one 
should prevail. Another prolific source of "damping" is due 
to the use, or rather to the abuse, of stimulants. 




The term " Bedding Plants " is usually applied to such half- 
hardy subjects as Pelargoniums and Calceolarias, which are 
planted out in beds for summer display. This, however, seems 
to be a rather restricted meaning of the term, as the 
hardy plants which are used for the decoration of the same 
beds during winter and spring have as just a claim to the 
title of " Bedding Plants " as have the summer occupants of such 
beds, and they will therefore be included in this chapter. The 
system of planting a series of beds with half-hardy plants for 
summer decoration has for many years been extensively adopted 
in this country, and there can be no doubt that to produce an 
effective display of blossom for the longest possible time in a 
group of beds, this system of filling them in May or June 
with plants of the half-hardy class, followed in the autumn 
by a distinct set of hardy bedders (bulbs, &:c.), for spring 
decoration, must be adopted. 

Bedding plants may be divided into three groups, according 
to the season when they are employed, viz., spring, summer, and 
winter bedders, and these will be treated under their respective 
headings, beginning with those used in 

Summer Bedding*. 

Preparation of Beds. — Before passing on to the plants them- 
selves, a few words on the preparation of the beds for the 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



167 



reception of the occupants are necessary. It is now a recognised 
thing that the cultivation of the majority of plants for a long- 
continued display of flowers is very exhausting to the soil, and 
consequently they require as good a foundation laid for their 
culture as many of our vegetables. It is therefore indispensable 
that the beds should be well-drained, well-manured, and deeply- 
worked, if their occupants are to be creditable. What can be 
worse than stagnant water about a bed of plants ? It keeps 
down the temperature of the soil, and prevents the air from 
entering and sweetening it, thereby bringing about a condition of 
things fatal to the life of the plants. As to deep cultivation, 
the benefits to be derived from it are many : it gives a greater 
degree of openness to the soil, so that the roots can penetrate 
the more easily, and in dry seasons descend to where the soil 
is moist, thus escaping, to a greater degree, the evils of drought. 
In wet seasons, the surplus water also escapes more readily to 
the drains and subsoil, instead of standing about the roots of 
the plants and causing their decay. An excellent plan to adopt 
is to trench the beds to a depth of 2ft. every second season, 
and time thus spent will be well repaid by the superior health 
and beauty of the plants grown. Then as to soil, the best for 
the cultivation of the majority of bedding plants is undoubtedly 
a deep, light loam, resting on a dry subsoil. In a soil of this 
description, it is surprising how well these plants grow and flower. 
If the soil is very light and sandy, it is greatly improved by 
having a quantity of heavy loam incorporated with it ; but if it 
is naturally unsuitable, the best way to remedy the evil is to 
excavate the original soil to a depth of 2ft., replacing it with, 
say, a compost of two parts friable loam and one of leaf-mould. 

If plants are to be grown in the same ground for several 
consecutive years, manure must be applied to the soil, or it 
will soon become exhausted. For this purpose, nothing is better 
than old hotbed- or well-decomposed cow-manure, on no 
account using the latter in a fresh state. The dressings are 
best applied when the beds are trenched, mixing the manure 
well with the soil. If trenching is not necessary, the manure 
might be scattered over the surface and forked well in. In 
districts where the rainfall is great, as in the neighbourhood of 
hills, many plants, such as Pelargoniums, produce leaf at the 
expense of flower. In such localities, the soil should be raised 
more above the ground-level, and, of course, manure should be 
more sparingly applied. 



1 68 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

ft 

Planting. — The time for planting out depends on the general 
climate of the district, the position of the garden as to shelter, 
and the condition of the plants, together with the character of 
the individual season. It is certainly much better to wait a 
week or two than to remove plants out of sheltered situations 
into the open beds, if there is any fear of cold winds or a 
night's frost, in which case they would no doubt receive a check 
sufficient to affect their well-being for the whole season. The 
usual time for planting out is the end of May or during the 
month of June. Showery weather is generally chosen for the 
operati6n, but should dry weather prevail, planting may commence 
in June, providing the beds receive a good watering immediately 
after. This is preferable to planting when the soil is very wet 
and sticky, as then it is apt to be pressed into hard lumps. 
When the plants are in pots, it is best to water them thoroughly 
overnight, so as to have the balls in a perfectly moist condition 
by the morning, as when turned out of a pot and when rather 
dry, it is almost impossible to get water to enter the ball after 
the plant has been put in the ground, and it naturally suffers 
in consequence. If the weather continues dry after planting, 
liberal waterings should be given at intervals, never allowing the 
plants to suffer for want of water. The removal of decayed 
leaves and flowers should be regularly seen to throughout the 
summer, so that the beds may at all times present a neat and 
tidy appearance. 

The blending and contrasting of colours is a subject that 
requires great attention in bedding arrangements. The harmonising 
of one colour with another generally produces the most pleasing 
effect. Thus, by arranging the colours purple, red, pink, salmon, 
yellow, and white, in the order named, the eye is led gradually 
from one colour to the other, and perfect harmony prevails. In 
planting small beds, however, it is not advisable to introduce 
too many shades of colour — two, or, at the most, three, will 
suffice. The most accommodating colour for contrasting with 
others is white or very light grey, such as is supplied by 
Cineraria maritima or Cerastiiim tome?iiosum ; these plants 
associate well with all strong colours, and produce striking 
contrasts. The shrewd gardener is always on the alert for suit- 
able combinations, and when he sees any that take his fancy, 
he jots them down in his note-book for use in future seasons. 

The gardener of the present day has considerable advantage 
over his predecessors in the matter of bedding, as the number 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



169 



of beautiful subjects at his disposal is infinite, so that by a 
judicious selection he may, during the summer, convert his 
garden into a veritable fairyland. To attain this end he has the 
choice of three distinct styles of summer l^edding, viz. (i) 
Ordinary summer bedding, (2) Sub-tropical, and (3) Carpet 
bedding, and for our purpose it will be best to deal with the 
plants used in each style separately, beginning with : 

Ordinary Summer Bedding. 

Ageratums. — These are useful bedding plants, blossoming 
continuously from June till October, or until destroyed by frost ; 
they vary in height from 4in. to i5in. : the flowers, which are 
some shade of blue, or white, are lasting, and retain their colour 
well. They are excellent plants either for edgings, for small 
beds by themselves, or for mixing with Tricolor Pelargoniums, 
&c. ; also as carpeting plants for Fuchsias or other tall-growing 
subjects. Seeds may be sown in January or February in heat, 
and the seedlmgs grown on in small pots and gradually hardened 
off ready for planting out in June. They are also propagated 
readily from cuttings at any season, a little bottom-heat being 
beneficial. 

The dwarf varieties of Ageraiiiui uiexicanuui are the kinds 
generally used for bedding purposes, and the selection here 
given may be relied upon. (See also " Half-hardy Annuals.") 
Cupid is one of the best ; it grows about 9in. high, and is very 
floriferous, producing rich blue flowers, set off by bright green 
foliage. Swanley Blue, 6in. to gin. high, has very dark blue 
flowers ; it is often used as an edging plant for beds of A^arie- 
gated Pelargoniums, in which position it is very effective. The 
Zoo is a fine variety. Sin. or gin. high, of compact habit ; it 
bears large trusses of bright violet-blue flowers at the point of 
every shoot. Albiflorum Nanum, gin. high, has pure white 
flowers, and makes a useful bedding plant. Cannell's Dwarf 
grows only 3in. high, and yields an abundance of bright 
lavender-blue flowers. Imperial Dwarf, Lady Jane, Countess of 
Stair, Johannas Pfitzer, Le Geant, and Perle Bleu are all good 
blue-flowered varieties : whilst among the whites Enfant de Paris, 
Tapis Blanc, Snowflake, and Candeur are excellent 

Beet. — Several varieties of Beia vulgaris are used for bedding 
on account of their highly-coloured crimson, dark purple, or 
bronzy foliage. The seed may be sown in April or May in a 
reserve bed, and the seedlings transferred to their permanent 
quarters when required. Dell's Crimson is dealt with under 

Biennials." Victoria (Fig. 82) is an old and well-tried variet)', 
with foliage of a nice deep bronzy-red. Dracasna-leaved Beet is 



f 



170 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

also good for edgings, growing only ift. high, and producing 
elegant recurved crimson foliage. 




Fig. 82. — Beta hortensis metallica, or Victoria Beet. 



Begonias. — The tuberous-rooted Begonias constitute a class 
of plants admirably adapted for this style of bedding. They 
may be grown with less labour and attention than many bedding 
plants, and when in flower it is surprising how they wdll 
withstand the ill-effects of wind and heavy rain, and remain 
one mass of colour until frost puts in an appearance. The tubers 
are started into growth about March by placing them either 
singly in pots or several together in boxes of light soil composed 
of loam, leaf-mould, and sand, with a little decayed cow-manure 
added. The pots or pans should be well-drained, and the com- 
post in a moist condition when used. The tubers should be 
potted firmly, placing them just below the surface, and watering 
carefully until growth is fairly active. They should be gradually 
hardened off by admitting air, and transferred to the beds in 
June. In dry weather water should be freely applied, never allow- 
ing the tubers to get dry at the root ; they will then produce a 
display which, for brilliancy of colour, and duration and profusion 
of blossom, will compare favourably with any other bedding plant 
grown. When lifted in the autumn, the tubers require to be 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



dried carefully (which may be done by placing them in a light, 
dry, airy position), or the decaying stems will rot them. As 
soon as they are thoroughly dried they should be packed away 
in boxes of dry sand or cocoa-nut fibre, and placed in a cool 
position out of the way of frost until time for starting them 
again the following spring. They are easily propagated by 
division of the tubers just when starting into growth in the spring. 
The tubers should be cut carefully with a sharp knife, and the 
cut surfaces smeared with dry charcoal before repotting. 
They may also be raised from seed sown in pans of light, sandy 
soil in early spring. The pans should be well-watered before the 
seed is sown. No covering of soil is required, as the seed is 



Fig. 83. — Seedling Tuberous-Rooted Begonia. 

very minute, but squares of glass might with advantage be placed 
over the pans so as to keep the soil in a uniformly moist 
condition. They should be placed in a temperature of from 
6odeg. to 65deg., and kept shaded. When the seedlings are 
large enough to handle, they should be pricked off into pans of 
light soil ; they should afterwards be potted singly in small pots, 
grown on, and finally hardened off and planted out towards the 
end of June. Seedlings thus treated, if sown early enough, will 
flower the same season. 

The shrubby fibrous-rooted section also contributes several 
species which are now used for bedding purposes ; of these,. 
B. semperflorens and its varieties are especially suitable, as they 



172 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



flower with the greatest profusion throughout the whole summer, 
and also stand the wet weather exceedingly well. They may be 
raised in quantity from seed ; cuttings may also be rooted by 
inserting them in a light sandy soil round the edge of the 
cutting-pot, and placing them in a propagating-case having a 
bottom-heat of about yodeg. 

The varieties of Begonias suitable for bedding purposes are now 
numerous, the following being amongst the best : Worthiana, 
a great favourite, with small orange-scarlet flowers ; it is of 
robust constitution and exceedingly floriferous, and requires to be 
planted at about loin. from plant to plant. Erfordi has dark 
bronze-coloured leaves and rosy-carmine flowers. Vesuvius is 
iin excellent variety, of compact habit, producing bright orange- 
scarlet flowers. Cannell's Scarlet is a good dwarf form, bearing 
numerous small scarlet flowers. Baumanni, primrose-scented, 
produces bright rose-coloured flowers in profusion. Queen of 
Bedders is a variety of the shrubby B. seniperfloj-ens, and has 
rich dark bronze foliage, which sets off to advantage its 
dazzling-red flowers. Ascotensis has pink, Castaucefolia has rose, 
whilst Knowsleyana has blush-coloured flowers. Most of our 
nurserymen offer seeds of both single and double varieties, 
saved from flowers of all shades of colour from white, orange, 
yellow, and pink, to dark crim.son. Tubers may also be obtained, 
either of the named kinds or mixed specially for bedding 
purposes. Seedlings are frequently employed for Bedding, and 
may be cheaply procured. Fig. 83 represents an especially good 
seedling, with flowers some 6in. across. 

Calceolarias. — These are subjects that require good, 
deep, rich soil, with plenty of manure, the object being to 
grow them vigorously so as to get healthy green plants, free 
from insects. Propagation is effected by means of cuttings of 
firm young shoots, put in during September and October, in a 
cold pit or frame. The frame should be in a dry position, 
and the cuttings must not be dibbled in too thickly, on account 
of damping. They should be carefully shaded during sunshine, 
and kept as close and cool as possible. They may also be pro- 
pagated by cuttings, placed in pots at the same season, keeping 
them in cutting-pots during the winter, potting off singly into 
3in. pots in the early spring, and gradually hardening off. Those 
that are struck in the cold frame will not require to be potted 
up, but are best planted out direct from the frame to their 
flowering quarters. All the autumn-struck cuttings should have 
their tops pinched out about March, so as to form nice bushy 
specimens. If more plants are required, these tops may be 
put in as cuttings, either in hot-beds or in pans or boxes 
placed in heat, and when rooted and growing freely they may 
be hardened off gradually and planted out at the same time 
as the others. Watering the cuttings is a point which requires 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



great care, or "damping" will ensue. The shrubby kinds are 
generally grown for bedding purposes ; these include such 
well-known forms as Gaine's Yellow, a good old-fashioned 
bedder, of robust constitution ; Sultan, a fine dark variety ; and 
Golden Gem, one of the best, with bright yellow flowers ; these 
grow from i2in. to i8in. in height. Calceolaria aniplexicaiilis 
belongs to the herbaceous section. The leaves are stem-clasping, 
and the lemon-coloured flowers are produced freely from June 
until late in the autumn. The plant grows high, and is 

very good for associating with other taller-growing subjects. 

Celosias. — Although typically greenhouse and stove plants, 
some of these are now used for bedding purposes, and very 
graceful decorative plants they prove to be, with their showy, 
feathery plumes of flowers. 
Seeds should be sown in 
March or April in pans of 
light soil, pricking off the 
seedlings when large enough 
into thumb-pots, and grow- 
ing them on quickly in gentle 
heat. They will soon be 
ready for shifting into 5in. 
pots. They should be kept 
rather on the dry side, and as 
near the glass as possible, to 
induce flowering, gradually 
hardening them off, and plant- 
ing out in June, after the 
crowns of flowers are formed. 
Celosia pyramidalis grows to 
a height of i8in., and has 
numerous varieties, usually 
some shade of yellow or 
crimson. In catalogues they 
are generally described under 
the name of C. pluniosa. 
Sutton's Dwarf is one of 
the best, being of compact 
habit and possessing free- 
flowering properties. Celosia 
cristata (Fig. 84) is the Cockscomb. Seed should be sown in 
March, and the seedlings pricked out into pans of light soil and 
grown on quickly for a time ; then by keeping them cooler for 
a few days their combs will soon appear, and although small, 
it is easy to distinguish which are worth keeping. These 
should be potted up, and grown on in heat. When the combs 
are fairly well developed, the plants may be hardened off, and 
transferred to beds in warm situations. There are several varieties 




Fig. 84. — Celosia cristata 



174 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



most of them with crimson combs. Giant Empress grows ift. 
high, and has dark foh'age and large briUiant purple combs. 
Vesuvius is a handsome plant, with golden-yellow combs, the 
upper part being of a bright red colour. 

Centaurea ragusina is a valuable bedding plant, with broad 
silvery-white foliage, for which alone it is used ; it is excellent 
for contrasting with any strong colour, and forms a suitable 
subject for edgings to beds of Coleus, Iresines, Perillas, &c. 
It is propagated by cuttings taken off preferably with a heel, 
and inserted m pots of sandy soil during September, plunging 
the pots in a cold frame, and keeping close for a few weeks, 
until the cuttings are rooted. Plenty of air should then be 
admitted, keeping the leaves dry, so as to avoid damping. 
Plants will winter successfully in a frame providing that frost 

is excluded. Some 
growers prefer to in- 
sert the cuttings singly 
in small pots, potting 
on in the spring, and 
pinching, to form 
bushy plants. Those 
kept in the cutting- 
pots during the winter 
ought to be potted up 
singly in the spring, 
into "forty-eights," in 
which they will stand 
until bedding-out time 
arrives. Seeds may also 
be sown in August in 
heat, and the seedlings 
pricked off singly into 
small pots and treated 
in the same manner as 
the cuttings. 

Cineraria maritima (Fig. 85) is a hardy perennial with silvery- 
white foliage and heads of yellow flowers. The flower-stems 
must, however, be pinched out as soon as they apppear, as it is 
the silvery foliage that is required. It is largely used for edgings 
to beds of Perillas, &:c., taking the place of Centaurea i^agusifia. 
It may be increased by cuttings of short side-shoots, taken off 
the old plants in early spring, and placed in gentle heat. Seeds 
also germinate freely if sown in heat about February, pricking off 
the seedlings when large enough into boxes, and keeping in heat 
until established, afterwards hardening off in a cool pit or frame. 
The seedlings, however, do not develop such fine coloured leaves 
as do the plants struck from cuttings, so that it is always best to 




ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



pot up a few old plants in the autumn for furnishing cuttings 
early in the spring. C. mariiima grows from i2in. to i8in. 

CoLEUS Verschaffeltii is one of the best crimson-leaved 
plants used for bedding; it grows from i2in. to i8in. high, and 
strikes freely from cuttings placed in bottom-heat in spring. A 
few old plants taken up and potted in the autumn will yield an 
abundance of cuttings in the spring, as each " eye ^' w^ill grow 
and form a plant. March is the best time for propagating for 
bedding, growing the cuttings on in heat until May, and then 
very gradually hardening them off. They make very effective 
beds when edged with silver- or golden-leaved plants, such as 
Cineraria maritima or Pyrethrum Golden Feather. Taylor's Pet 
is a very dark crimson form, which, when' planted out, turns 
almost black ; it withstands the cold better than C. Verschaffeltii. 

Fuchsias. — These are now largely used in summer bedding 
arrangements, and very effective plants they prove to be, with 
their graceful drooping flowers. They are propagated by means 
of cuttings of the young growing shoots, taken from the old 
plants just as they start into growth in the spring, and placed 
in a warm propagating-frame. They root quite readily, and are 
soon fit for potting up singly into small pots. The cuttings 
should be kept near the glass in a warm house, so as to induce 
them to make stout, healthy growth, repotting them into 6in. 
pots before the roots become matted together. They should be 
kept growing freely during the summer, gradually drying oif in 
the autumn by withholding water and keeping them in a cooler 
temperature. They will then make excellent stock plants for 
starting into growth, in heat, during the early spring, gradually 
hardening off, and planting out in June. The following autumn 
they should be taken up before severe frost occurs, ripening 
them off well, previous to storing away in cool, dry sheds or 
cellars for the winter. Some Fuchsias are allowed to assume a 
bush form, whilst others are kept to a single stem, and grown 
into pyramids. The dwarf, bushy kinds form excellent beds, 
either alone or edged with other dwarf-growing bedding plants. 
Those grown into pyramids make beautiful objects, their drooping 
branches showing off to advantage. They require a carpeting of 
Ageratums, Violas, or other dwarf-growing subjects. The varieties 
of bedding Fuchsias are very numerous ; in fact, almost all of 
the Fuchsias are sufficiently hardy to stand outside during the 
summer. Dunrobin Castle is a very distinct bedding variety or 
compact habit. It has small dark foliage and bright coral-red 
flowers, which are produced in great profusion for weeks in 
succession. It is suitable for either small beds, carpeting below 
taller plants, vases, window-boxes, or for growing into standards. 
There are several varieties, with richly-coloured or variegated 
leaves, which are grown extensively for bedding purposes. 
Amongst these are Cloth of Gold, an old favourite, having 



176 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING, 



golden leaves margined with green ; Sunray, a beautiful decora- 
tive variety, with red variegated leaves ; Meteor, a valuable 
bedder, the lower leaves of a buff-yellow colour, whilst the 
upper ones are of a rich crimson hue. 

Gaillardias. — As well as being ornamental border-plants, 
these are excellent for bedding displays. They should be 
planted rather thinly, so as to allow room for pegging down 
the shoots. Propagation is effected by means of cuttings taken 
in the autumn, and treated in the same way as Pelargonium 
cuttings. It is surprising how well they succeed in a dry season^ 
producing an abundance of flowers from June to November. 
G. grandifiora maxima is one of the best of the perennials, 
having large handsome yellow flowers, with a central crimson 
ring; the shoots grow about i8in. long. Numerous named 
varieties are now in cultivation. 

The half-hardy annual varieties, such as Lorenztana, Driimmondh 
or picta, amb/yodon, &c., are also very effective and useful bedding 
plants, on account of their richly-coloured flowers and the long 
duration of their flowering period ; but as these are described 
under " Half-hardy Annuals," it will be unnecessary to repeat 
the descriptions here. 

Gazanias. — These are useful plants for sunny positions ; they 
are best propagated by cuttings put in during August in a close 
frame. When rooted, they should be removed to a cool, airy 
place, the object being to keep them short and sturdy. It is 
advisable to winter them in the cutting-pots or boxes, merely 
keeping them out of the way of frost. In the spring they should 
be potted off singly, keeping them close until established, and 
afterwards hardening off for planting in May or June. These 
autumn-struck cuttings should not be topped in the spring, as is 
done with many bedding-plants, or they will be very late in flower- 
ing. In colour the flowers are generally yellow, with dark basal 
spots. G. splendens is a handsome and much-grown trailer, with 
stems I Sin. long ; it has bright orange-coloured ray-florets, with a 
black-and-white spot at the base, the disk being paler in colour. 

Geraniums. — See Pelargoniums. 

Golden Feather. — See Pyrethrum. 

Heliotropes. — These are popular bedding plants, being much 
prized for their deliciously fragrant flowers, which are produced 
abundantly throughout the summer. The dw^arf kinds are suitable 
either for forming beds by themselves or for carpeting beds of 
taller-growing subjects, whilst the vigorous growers are admirable 
for training into pyramids, carpeting the beds with other dwarf 
subjects. Propagation is best eff'ected by means of cuttings 
taken about the end of August, and placed in a close case 
until rooted. They should be kept in a warm greenhouse 
during the winter, and in the spring be brought into a higher 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



temperature, where they will make an abundance of cuttings. 
These should be placed in bottom-heat, and kept close until 
rooted ; they may then be potted on and kept growing freely 
until bedding-out time. As the plants are rather tender, it is not 
advisable to put them out until a continuance of warm 
weather is tolerably assured. Plants intended for pyramids 
should be struck from cuttings in August, and kept growing 
on during the winter, training them to a single stem, until 
the desired height is reached. If the points are then pinched 
out, the side branches will soon develop and form a head. If 
named varieties are not required, seed may be sown in early 
spring, and the seedlings grown on for planting out into good 
dry soil in J une ; these will flower the same year as sown. 
Miss Nightingale, although an old variety, is still one of the 
best for bedding ; it is of dwarf, floriferous habit, and bears dark 
lilac flowers. President Garfield has bright mauve flowers. White 
Lady has whitish-lilac flowers, the trusses of which are very large. 

Iresine. — -To this genus belong two or three plants which are 
indispensable for summer bedding, on account of their richly- 
coloured foliage. Propagation is efl'ected by means of cuttings 
placed in a close propagating-frame 
in August and September ; when 
rooted, they should be taken out 
of the frame, kept rather dry, and 
wintered in a greenhouse tempera- 
ture. About February they should 
be potted up singly and introduced 
to more heat and moisture, and at 
the same time their tops should be 
pinched out ; this will cause them 
to break back and form an abund- 
ance of good strong cuttings, which, 
if placed in a close case, will soon 
emit roots ; these may be potted 
up, kept in a warm place until 
well established, and then gradually 
hardened off. Like Heliotropes, 
Iresines are rather tender, and ought fig. 86.— Iresine Herbstii 
not to be planted out until the season aureo-reticulata. 
is well advanced. To bring their 

foliage to perfection a warm season, with an abundance of 
sunshine, is necessary. Iresine Herbstii has splendid foliage ; 
the upper surface is of a dark greenish colour, with the mid-rib 
and principal veins of a rich carmine hue ; the under surface is 
deep crimson. The stem, which grows to a height of i2in. 
or i8in., is also bright carmine. The variety aureo-reticulata 
(Fig. 86) has the stem, leaf-stalks, and principal veins of a deep 
^red colour, whilst the surface of the leaves is green, blotched 

n 




THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



with gold. I. Lindeiii is an excellent species, and largely grown 
for bedding purposes; it has deep blood-red leaves, with purplish 
mid-ribs; the leaves are more pointed than those of Herbstii. 
It forms a fine edging plant to beds of Pelargoniums, &c. 

Lantanas. — The named varieties of Lantana, with their 
large Verbena-like heads of richly-coloured flowers, produced 
abundantly during the whole summer, are charming subjects for 
flower-beds. They are as easy to cultivate as Pelargoniums, 
and may be used either in beds by themselves, or as carpeting 
plants for tall-growing Fuchsias, &c., or they may be trained as 
standards. Propagation is effected by means of cuttings, treated 
like those of the Iresine. Drap d'Or is unequalled for bedding; 
it is of dwarf compact habit, and very floriferous, producing 
numerous heads of bright yellow flowers. Don Calmet is also 
very floriferous, bearing an abundance of clear lilac flowers with 
red centres; it grows about ift. high. 

Lobelias. — The predominating colour amongst the dwarf- 
growing Lobelias is blue, a colour which is rather rare 

amongst the or- 
dinary run of 
bedding plants. 
To this, and to 
their dwarf com- 
pact habit may 
be attributed the 
reason of their 
universal adop- 
tion for bedding 
purposes, and 
especially as 
edgings to beds 
of taller sub- 
jects. They are 
increased by 




readily 



ther seeds or cuttings. 
Seeds may be sow^n in 
February or March in 
pans of light sandy soil 
(covered but slightly, as 
they are very minute) and stood 
in a warm house. They should 
afterwards be pricked off into 
boxes and kept under glass 
until nearly bedding time, \vhen 
they should be hardened off. 
They may also be sown thinly in rows, in a frame close to 
the glass, and transferred direct to their flowering quarters 



Fig. 87. — Lobelia Erinus. 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



179 



As they are liable to sport from seed, the best way to perpetuate 
and preserve any special variety is by means of cuttings : these 
may either be inserted in autumn, or a few old plants may be 
taken up, potted, and kept in a frame during the winter. Early 
in the spring remove them into a warm, moist atmosphere, where 
they will soon make an abundance of cuttings ; these may be 
taken off, placed in a warm propagating-frame, and when rooted 
pricked out into boxes and hardened off before bedding-out 
time. In this way any amount of plants of uniform habit may 
be obtained. The taller-growing 
species may also be increased 
readily by means of seeds, cut- 
tings, or divisions of the old plants 
in spring. Lobelia Erinus (Fig. 
87) is the species from which 
most of our dwarf beddmg varie- 
ties have sprung. The typical 
plant has blue flowers, with a 
white or yellowish throat : it 
grows only 6in. high. Z. speciosa 
is an old favourite, of free, grace- 
ful habit, suitable for trailing over 
vases ; it has dark bronze foliage. 
L. compacta is of neat and com- 
pact habit, suitable for edgings, 
&c. ; there is also a white-flowered 
variety, and one with golden 
foliage. Z. pumila magnifica is 
an excellent bedder, with bright 
blue flowers : it 2;rows 
high. Z. ramosa is 



a taller- 
form, reaching; a hei2:ht 
of gin. : it has deep purple-blue 
flowers. There are also numerous 
good named varieties, of which 
Cobalt Blue, Swanley Blue, Crystal 
Palace, and Emperor William, are 

^ species, Z. cardijialis 
foliage, and numerous 
flowers, is one of the finest : it grows from 



only 3in. 



growmg 




Fig. 88. — Lobelia cardixalis. 



taller-growing 
corrugated 



amongst 
(Fig. 
spikes 



the best. Of the 
88), with rough 
of crimson-scarlet 
iKt. to 2ft. high. 



Z. fulgens or Z. splende?is is also excellent 
which are rather longer, narrower, and more downy 
those of Z. ca?'di?iaHs, and beautiful scarlet flowers, 
form Queen Victoria has deep mulberry-coloured foliage, 
intense vermilion-scarlet flowers : it attains a height of 
2^ft. to 3ft. Firefly also has bright scarlet flowers, 
sometimes reaches a height of 5ft. The rich and 
coloured flowers and foliage of these tall perennial 



it has reddish leaves, 

than 
The 
and 
from 
and 
brilliant- 
Lobelias 



N 2 



i8o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



render them indispensable for summer bedding ; in mild dis- 
tricts they prove hardy enough to stand the winter outside 
with a light covering of ashes, &c., though it is always best 
to lift and store them in a dry shed, starting them into growth 
again in spring. 

Pelargoniums. — In the whole range of bedding plants it 
would be difficult to name a more popular favourite than the 
Zonal Pelargonium ; it matters little where you go, w^hether into 
the gardens of the wealthy, or into those of the humblest cottagers, 
the "Zonal" is to be seen in all its splendour. It is a plant 
very easily propagated by means of cuttings at any season ; the 
best time, however, is about the middle of August, when the 
plants in the beds have made vigorous and firm growth, and the 
cuttings will not be missed. The best cuttings are obtained from 
the outsides of the beds, where the growths are usually short- 
jointed and firm ; these make much finer plants than those from 
the centre of the beds, where the growths are long and grassy. 
The cuttings will root freely if inserted in boxes of light sandy 
soil and stood in cool frames, or even in the open air. During 
the winter they should be placed in a dry pit, having at command 
sufficient fire-heat to keep them safe from frost, and to expel 
damp. If the foliage is crowded it might with advantage be 
thinned out a little, so as to allow of a free circulation of air 
amongst the cuttings. After the end of October they should not 
have more water than is necessary to keep them from drooping. 
During the winter they should be constantly looked over, and 
any dead or decaying leaves ought to be at once removed. 
About the middle of February they may be taken carefully from 
the cutting-boxes and potted singly into 3in.-pots in a compost 
of loam, sand, and a little well-decayed farmyard manure, placed 
in light, dry pits, kept rather close for a few days until 
established, and then given an abundance of air. About the 
beginning of May they should be placed outside so that they may 
be thoroughly hardened off ready for planting out in June. Some 
people insert the cuttings somewhat thinner in the cutting-boxes, 
pinch out the points in February, and transplant direct from the 
boxes to the open ground. Others strike the cuttings in the 
open ground in autumn and when rooted, lift and pot up 
singly into 3in. pots ; this method may be very good, but 
far more room is required for housing the plants in winter, 
and this is not always at liberty. If it is found during 
the winter that more plants will be required than has been 
bargained for, a quantity of the autumn-struck cuttings should 
be introduced to heat early in February, and when a few^ 
inches of growth have been made, they may be topped for 
cuttings, placing the tops in a warm propagating-frame until 
rooted, then potting off carefully and hardening by introducing 
to more light and air. 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



l8l 



The varieties suitable for bedding are very numerous, and 
include such well-known forms as the following : 

Ordinary Zonals. — Vesuvius, having scarlet flowers . with a 
small white eye ; one of the best and most popular. Henry 
Jacoby, with crimson-maroon flowers ; very- compact in habit, 
and producing an abundance of fine trusses. John Gibbons, 
with orange-scarlet flowers. Rev. H. Johnston, with large 
trusses of dark crimson flowers. 

Golden-bronze Zonals. — -Model, Golden Harry Hieover, and 
Bronze Queen, with a golden-yellow disk and margin, separated 
by a more or less brown-bronze zone, shaped like a horse-shoe. 

Yelloiv-leaved Section. — Crystal Palace Gem and Robert Fish, 
with zoneless leaves. 

Novelties. — Happy Thought, with a creamy-white centre, and 
green round the outside. 

Golden Tricolors. — Mr. Harry Cox, having intensely-bright 
markings, with a well-defined zone of rich crimson, and bright 
yellow margin. Mrs. Pollock ; an old, well-known kind. 

Silver Tricolors. — Mrs. Laing, Eva Fish, Miss Farren, and 
Dolly Varden. 

White-Edged Section. — Flower of Spring, with cream-coloured 
variegation. Little Trot ; leaves margined with a broad band of 
white ; an excellent bedder, of branching habit, scarcely attaining 
6in. in height. These fine-foliaged varieties are generally grown 
for the sake of their leaves, and on this account are seldom 
allowed to flower. 

Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums are suitable for covering trellises and 
for growing in vases, where their long, trailing growths, hanging 
over the sides, show off to advantage. They are rather more 
tender than the Zonal kinds, and require to be kept a little 
warmer during the winter. Numerous varieties are now advertised, 
amongst which are La France, Masterpiece, and Mrs. H. Cannell, 
with single flowers, and Madame Thibaut, Jeanne d'Arc, Incom- 
parable, and Gloire d'Orleans, with double flowers. 

Perilla nankinensis. — This is a most useful bedding plant, 
with dark mulberry-coloured foliage; it grows from ift. to 2ft. high, 
and is generally used for edgings or for mixing with silver-leaved 
plants, on account of its dark purplish foliage. Seed may be 
sown about the end of February in pans or boxes, and placed in 
heat. The seedlings, when large enough, must be pricked out 
into other boxes, and when well established, and growing freely, 
they should be gradually hardened off, previous to planting. 

Petunias. — These are very showy and popular subjects when 
grown in masses in a sunny position and fairly rich soil. They 
have showy salver-shaped flowers, crimson, purple, and white, 
striped and blotched in various ways. They are very effective 
when trained over hoops, fences, and trellises, as well as disposed 



l82 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



over tree-stumps. Seed may be sown in February or March, 
pricking out the seedlings into boxes, and transplanting to the 
open border during June. Cuttings will also root freely if 
placed in a warm case about August ; when rooted, they should 
be transferred to a cool position for the remainder of the 
summer, removing to a warm greenhouse before any signs of 
frost appear. In the early spring, they should be potted up 
singly, and kept in a gentle heat ; they will soon make 
plenty of new growth, and if more plants are required, the 
tops may be taken off and put in as cuttings ; if placed in 
a close case, these will soon root and make fine specimens for 
planting out in June. Numerous named varieties are now 
grown, some having double and others single flowers. Of the 
latter. Dr. Hogg and Spitfire are amongst the best ; whilst of 
the double forms, Kate Tidy (white), Wm. Brown, Perfection, 
and Mrs. Chas. Wilson cannot be beaten. 

Phlox Drummondi is a plant which cannot be passed by 
unnoticed, as for filling small beds, or for mixing with taller- 
growing subjects, it is superb. It is a half-hardy annual, and in 
this work is treated of under " Half-hardy Annuals." 

Pyrethrum Golden Feather is a well-known, free-growing 
bedding-plant, suitable for edgings, Szc. It has been styled the 
"gardener's friend," and it certainly is a treasure to him, for 
it can always be relied upon, and is always in season. In 
spring the plants look like masses of gold, and in summer they 
light up the whole garden, and harmonise with everything. As 
they are grown for their beautiful golden foliage, which is often 
elegantly cut, the flower-buds should be picked off as they 
appear. To secure plants suitable for bedding out in June, the 
seed should be sown in March in a warm pit, and the seedlings 
grown on rapidly in a light position. 

Verbenas. — These rank amongst the showiest of our 
summer-bedding subjects ; they are easily raised from seed sown 
in spring ; or they may be grown from cuttings of short, stubby 
shoots dibbled into a slight hot-bed in August. They may also 
be increased by potting a few old plants in the autumn, 
wintering them in a cool, light greenhouse, and placing them ni 
heat about January, when they will make an abundance of 
cuttings. These will root readily if placed in a close propagating- 
frame, and will make useful subjects for planting out in June, 
Those raised from seed are more robust in growth, and yield 
more flowers than those grown from cuttings, and, moreover, are 
not so liable to fall a prey to the disease which attacks those 
raised from cuttings ; it is therefore advisable to grow them 
annually from seed, and if care is taken in selecting the 
seed, excellent results will be obtained. Verbena venosa has 
rose-purple flowers, and grows to a height of i8in. ; it is very 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



183 



effective in beds, especially when mixed with some contrasting 
colour, such as is supplied by the Silver-Leaved Pelargoniums ; 
it is of branching habit, and answers well when pegged down. 
There are also several named varieties which are very useful for 
bedding purposes, such as Crimson King, of fine habit, having 
bright crimson flowers with white eyes ; Purple King, an old and 
well-known variety with purple flowers ; and V. Melindres splendens, 
with brilliant scarlet flowers. Most of our nurserymen also 
advertise choice mixed seed, producing beautiful shades of white, 
rose, scarlet, blue, and purple flowers, so that no difficulty will 
be experienced in obtaining a fine selection of these deservedly- 
popular bedding-plants. The flowers of the last-named are in 
close, compact heads. 

Sub=Tropical Bedding. 

The introduction of large-foliaged, stately, sub-tropical plants 
into our flower-gardens during the summer months has been 




Fig. 89. — Gynerium argenteum. 



arranged so as to enable us, as it were, to obtain faint glimpses 
of the grandeur of tropical vegetation. In this style of bedding 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



any sub-tropical plant may be used, providing it is sufficiently 
robust in constitution to withstand the variations of our changeable 
climate. Many of the plants used are of a tender nature, and 
only ^'suitable for standing outside during the hottest part of 




Fig. 90. — Arundo Donax. 



the summer ; but there are others which are hardy enough to 
withstand an ordinary English winter — in the South of England, 
at any rate. To this latter group belong such plants as 
Gy7ie7'iii7n argenteiim (the Pampas Grass) (Fig. 89), Arimdo 
Donax (Fig. 90), Gunnera scabra (Fig. 91) and G. manicata, 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



ChamcErops humilis^ Chaincerops Fortimei (yTj-achy carpus excelsiis), 
and the Bamboos. These stately subjects are suitable for planting 
either as single specimens about the lawn or in groups in 
sheltered positions. The Gunneras require damp situations, 
preferably near the banks of lakes or streams, and when the 
foliage dies down in the late autumn, the crowns should be 
protected from frost by having a quantity of dry leaves thrown 
•over them to the depth of i2in. or i8in. As the Gunneras 
start into growth early in the season, the winter covering should 
be removed before the young leaves have made much progress. 




Fig. 91. — GuNNERA scabra. 



otherwise they will be damaged during the operation. When in 
the young state the leaves are very tender, and preparation must 
be made for covering up the plants if any signs of frost appear. 

Returning to the non-permanent sub-tropical bedders, there are 
two distinct groups — to the one belong the Agaves, Yuccas, 
Dracaenas, Musas, Tree-Ferns, and several of the Palms — plants 
generally of slow growth, which are kept in pots or tubs, and 
plunged outside during the summer, and have to be removed to 
the greenhouse for the winter ; these present a fine appearance, 
giving to the garden a tropical aspect. One of the most 
essential points in the culture of Musas, Tree-Ferns, and, in fact, 



i86 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



of all tender large-foliaged plants grown outside, is that of 
shelter, as if exposed to high winds the leaves get torn to 
shreds, and the plants are thereby disfigured, and look 
unsightly objects in the flower-garden. It is therefore imperative 
that a sheltered position should be chosen for this phase of 
sub-tropical bedding. For more exposed situations, and for 
terrace gardens, the Agaves and Yuccas are amongst the best of 
stately-foliaged plants, as the leaves are not liable to be damaged 
by the wind, and the plants themselves are more in accordance 
with their surroundings. As this class of plants require a 
considerable amount of room for their accommodation in winter, 
it is evident that sub-tropical bedding cannot be carried out 
to any extent, except in very large establishments, where plenty 
of room is at command during winter. 

To the other group belong the Cannas, the tuberous-rooted 
Solanums, (S:c., the tubers of which may be taken up in the 
late autumn, and after being dried, stored away for the winter 
in a shed or other suitable structure, where they are out of 
the reach of frost. These may be readily increased by division 
of the tubers, just as they are starting into growth in the spring, 
placing them in a warm case until established, afterwards 
growing on, and hardening off, ready for planting out when all 
danger of late spring frosts is past. 

With this group may be included numerous robust-growing 
annuals that are readily raised from seed sown in February, 
and which make quite large plants, if grown well. Of these the 
Castor-oil and Tobacco plants are examples. With regard to 
planting out, the second w^eek in June is about as early as it 
is safe to plant out Castor-oil plants and other soft-wooded 
subjects grown from seed. It is preferable to have stout young 
plants, well-rooted, and carefully hardened off, as they succeed 
much better than larger specimens grown on in a high 
temperature and insufficiently hardened off ; in fact, this point 
constitutes one of the elements of success in the management 
of these large-foliaged plants. 

Besides the plants mentioned in the following pages, numerous 
others may be used for sub-tropical bedding, such as Carlina, 
Aloe, Sumach, Fatsia (Aralia), Funkia, Eryngium, Rheum, 
Heracleum, Bocconia, Cassia, &c. Also available are some of 
the ordinary summer bedding plants, such as Coleus, Iresines, 
Perillas, Beet, Centaureas, Cinerarias, <Scc., which are used either 
for mixing with the sub-tropical plants in the beds, or as edgings 



ox BEDDING PLANTS. 



187 



for the same. Carpeting plants, such as the Alternantheras, are 
also used, and when judiciously arranged, give a finished appear- 
ance to the beds. In fact, the modes of arranging the plants 
at command are endless ; yet the same object is kept in view, 
viz., an attractive and effective display, avoiding all formality, but 
at the same time aiming at a neat, symmetrical appearance when 
completed. 

Abutilons. — If these are planted outside in June they will 
flower freely throughout the summer ; the flowers are bell-shaped 
and pendulous. Abutilons are readily propagated by cuttings of 
the young wood struck in a mild bottom-heat in September. 
Several ornamental-foliaged varieties are grown for bedding 
purposes : A. Thomsojii, 3ft. to 4ft. high, with leaves freely 
blotched with yellow ; A. vexillaruivi (A. megapotamicuni)^ 3ft., 
flowers with dark red sepals, pale yellow petals, and dark brown 
stamens, the variety variegatum being very attractive ; and 
A. Sellowiammi i}iar7Jioratum^ with large leaves beautifully mottled 
with bright yellow. 

Acacia (Albizzia) lophantha is a handsome plant for 
mixed sub-tropical bedding. It is of quick growth, and produces 
an abundance of graceful bipinnate leaves. Seed sown in heat 
in February will yield plants suitable for transferring to the open 
beds in June. 

Caxnas. — These are splendid plants, admirably adapted either 
for massing in beds by themselves or for mixing amongst other 
subjects. They are of stately growth, producing massive, broad 
foliage, varying in colour from rich green to chocolate-crimson, 
and having noble heads of yellow, orange, or crimson-scarlet 
flowers. Seed may be sown in February in heat either in pans 
or singly in small pots. Previous to sowing it should be steeped 
for twenty-four hours in lukewarm water : this will tend to soften 
the seed and stimulate its germinating properties. The seed- 
lings must be grown on quickly, and thoroughly hardened before 
planting out, and they will flower the first season. They prefer 
a rich, porous soil, which ought to be dug and manured two or 
three weeks before planting. In the autumn the tubers must be 
taken up and gradually dried previous to storing away for the 
winter under the stages in the houses, or in dry sheds w^here 
they will be safe from frost. They may be divided and potted 
up in early spring and placed in heat ; they will soon grow away 
freely, and make nice plants fit for planting out in June. 
Numerous hybrids are now grown, most of which have been 
reared by M. Crozy, of Lyons. ]Madame Crozy is of compact 
habit, has green foliage, and handsome apricot-coloured flowers. 
Paul Bert has dark foliage, shaded with purple, and flowers of a 
golden-amber colour. ]Menelik is of dwarf habit, with fine rich 



i88 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



velvety-crimson flowers. These hybrid Cannas vary in height 
from I Sin. to 4ft., and flower during the late summer and autumn. 

Daturas are handsome massive-foliaged plants, with large 
trumpet-shaped flowers, and are much admired. The half-hardy 
annuals may be easily raised from seed sown in a hotbed in 
early spring, potting up singly, and finally planting out into a 




Fig. 92. — Datura meteloides. 

light, warm soil in June. D. ceratocaula grows 3ft. high, and in 
July produces large sweet-scented flowers, with green tubes, and 
white corollas tinged with pink. D. cornucopice (i^ft. high) has 
large flowers formed of three layers, one within the other, like 
three cones. They are rich purple in colour, with white throats. 
D. meteloides {D. Wrightii, Fig. 92) is a handsome plant, growing 
2ft. high, and bearing white flowers bordered with lilac. 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



189 



Eucalyptus globulus (Blue Gum-Tree) is a fast-growing 
subject, having leaves of a peculiar glaucous hue. Seed should 
be sown in August in heat, and the young plants grown on 
through the winter. In this way much larger specimens may 
be obtained than if the seed is sown in spring. 




Fig. 93. — Grevillea robusta. 



Ficus elastica is an ornamental subject for sub-tropical 
bedding, and is suitable either for mixing in groups of tall- 
growing plants, or for planting amongst dwarf carpeting plants. 
It may be raised from either eyes or cuttings. 

Grevillea robusta (Fig. 93) is a most graceful plant, with 
fern-Hke foliage. It is of easy culture, and attains a height of 



190 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



5ft. It may be propagated by cuttings of the half-ripened shoots 
placed in pots of sandy soil, and kept in a cold frame till 
callused, afterwards removing into bottom-heat, when they will 
soon emit roots. Seeds may also be sown in spring, and placed 
m heat, the seedlings, when large enough, being potted up singly, 
previous to planting out in the open. 




Fig. 94. — AViGAXDIA VlGIERI. 



HuMEA ELEGANS. — See " Biennials in the Chapter on 
"Annuals and Biennials." 

Lavatera arborea variegata. — -See " Biennials." 

Melianthus major (Cape Honey Flower) grows from 4ft. 
to 6ft. high, and produces finely-cut glaucous foliage. Its 
distinct and elegant appearance always attracts attention. Seeds 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



191 



should be sown early in the spring, and the seedlings will then 
form nice plants for transferring to the open border in June. 
Cuttings also root freely in a cold frame. 

NicoTiANAS are treated under "Half-hardy Annuals." 

RiciNUS.— ^d^^ " Half-hardy Annuals." 

SoLANUMS. — Several of the strong-growing Solanums are 
worthy of a place in the sub-tropical garden on account of their 
massive foliage. The annuals are easily raised from seed sown 
in heat during February and March ; the tuberous-rooted 
Solanums may be increased by division of the tubers in spring, 
just when they are starting into growth. The following are most 
suitable for sub-tropical bedding : — -S. ma?-gi?iatu]]i^ 3ft. to 4ft. 
high, with handsome scalloped leaves, margined with white. 
S. robiistiim^ 3ft. to 5ft. high, with elegant foliage, covered with 
long spines ; the leaves when young assume a rich brown tint. 
S. Warsewiczii, a grand subject, growing 5ft. or 6ft. high ; the 
stem is armed with strong spines, and the leaf-stalk and mid-rib 
are covered with red prickles. 

WiGANDiAS. — These are noble plants, of bold habit, possessing 
massive foliage. They are easily raised from seed sown in 
February, in heat, or from cuttings of the young shoots. 
W. inacrophylla ( caracasa7ia) grows 6ft. high, and should have 
a warm sheltered position and good rich soil if to be seen at 
its best. The stems are covered with short hairs. The leaves 
grow to a tremendous size, and are very ornamental. W. ii7'e?is 
has spreading deep green leaves, the leaf-stalks being shaded 
with red ; it is of looser habit than fuacrophylla^ and possesses 
stinging properties. W. Vigieri (Fig. 94) is also grown. 

Carpet Bedding. 

This style of summer bedding is not nearly so much 
practised as it was formerly ; this is no doubt due to 
the fact that it was overdone, bed after bed being filled 
with the same dwarf plants, until at last the eye grew weary 
and longed for a change. Another reason is no doubt the 
expensiveness of the system, for even a small plot of ground 
requires an immense number of plants to produce the desired 
•effect, whilst the labour entailed in preparing and planting is 
enormous. Carpet bedding, as practised years ago, consisted 
of the planting of beds in geometrical form with various dwarf 
coloured-foliaged plants, the object being to imitate fancy designs, 
such as were found on Turkey carpets, &c., and to work them 
out in different colours. The dwarf plants so used needed 
constant attention with regard to pinching and keeping them 
within their allotted space, or the design would quickly be 



192 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



spoiled by the strong growers running into and smothering the 
weaker subjects, and the bed present the appearance of 
disorder and neglect. At the present day a decided improve- 
ment in the art of carpet bedding is to be seen in many of 
our large public parks and other places ; this consists of a freer 
use of tall, graceful subjects, suitable for associating with the 
typical carpet-bedding plants ; and in this way many pleasing 
effects are produced. 

Carpet bedding should not be done until about the middle 
of June. The beds ought to have been dug over about a 
fortnight previously and left to solidify ; they will then only 
require to be made moderately firm and to have the surface 
soil raked smooth and even at the time of planting. The design 
is then transferred to the beds by drawing lines in the soil. 
Circles may easily be drawn by fixing a stick firmly in the 
centre of the bed and looping a piece of string over it, then by 
attaching another stick to the string at the distance required^ 
the circles may be drawn correctly. When all the lines are 
drawn they are traced with a little dry silver-sand, so as to make 
them more distinct for the operator. Planting then commences : 
the tall dot plants are put in first, then the leading lines^ 
and afterwards the intermediate spaces or panels are filled in. 

As the majority of the plants are very small, and have to be 
planted quite close together, a narrow, pointed trowel is used ; or 
the trowel may be dispensed with altogether and the work done 
with the fingers. The soil is made fairly firm around them, and 
a good watering given immediately after planting. If dry, hot 
weather sets in, the beds must have occasional waterings through- 
out the summer. The dwarf plants will also require pinching at 
frequent intervals so as to keep them dwarf. 

Irrespective of the popular carpeting plants mentioned below, 
there are numerous others belonging to the sub-tropical and 
ordinary summer-bedding class that are available either as dot 
or centre plants in connection with carpet bedding. Of these, 
the following may be mentioned : Abiitiloji Thomsoni^ Agaves, 
Fatsia {Araiia) Sieboldi, Centaureas, Coleus, Dracana anstralis^ 
Iresines, Perillas, and Yuccas. 

The following list of plants includes the best of those 
most commonly grown for carpet bedding. The Saxifrages, 
Sempervivums, and Echeverias may be allowed to flower if it is 
desired ; but generally the flowers are pinched out. All the 
other plants are grown exclusively for their foliage. 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



Alternantheras. — These are amongst the most useful of 
plants we possess for bedding purposes ; they grow from 2m. to 
3in. high, and are largely used for filling in panels, divisional lines, 
&:c. Alternantheras are all grown for their foliage, which varies in 
colour from bright yellow to dark purple. A few old plants are 
taken up and placed in pans or boxes in the autumn, or cuttings 
are struck at the same time to form stock plants for standing 
the winter. These are kept on the shelf in a warm house until 
about March, when they are planted in a hot-bed ; in this 
situation they soon form an abundance of cuttings, which 
will root freely if dibbled in hot-beds about an inch apart, close 
to the glass, and kept shaded. In the course of a week or so, 
the shading should be discontinued, and air gradually given them 
until they are finally hardened off and planted out. Several 
species and varieties are grown: A. amabilis has broad foliage of 
deep orange and scarlet. A. amana has orange and purple 
foliage, shaded with dark green and bronze ; it is of spreading 
habit. A. versicolor has crimson and rose-coloured foliage. A. 
■baronychioides has orange-red foliage, shaded with green. The 
following are considered to be mere varieties of the latter 
species : A. aurea nana^ a very dwarf free-growing variety, with 
golden-yellow foliage; A. magnifica^ with red foliage; A. major, with 
bronze foliage, tipped with scarlet ; A. m. aurea, with large bright 
golden-yellow^ foliage ; A. rosea nana, with deep pink or rose- 
coloured foliage, presenting a charming contrast to A. aurea 7iana. 

Antennaria tomentosa, or A. Candida, is a dwarf, silvery- 
leaved plant, growing from 2in. to 3in. high. It is largely used 
for edgings or divisional lines, and is readily propagated by 
division of the roots or by seeds sown in spring. 

Calocephalus (Leucophyton or Leucophyta) BRO^vNII, has 
silvery-white foliage, and is propagated by cuttings in spring. It 
grows from 2in. to 4in. high, and is used for filling in panels, &c. 

Centaurea ragusina co.mpacta grows about Qin. high. It is 
a silvery-leaved plant, neater in appearance than the type, and 
useful for "ribbon-bedding," a style which consists of filling a 
border the whole length with rows of plants, each row being of 
a different shade of colour, so that the border, especially when 
view^ed from a distance, presents the appearance of a ribbon. It 
is also used as a dot plane. 

Cerastium tomentosum is used for edgings, for filling in 
panels, &c. On account of its silvery-white foliage, it goes under 
the name of " Snow-in-Summer." It is easily propagated by 
cuttings or division, and grows 6in. high. 

CHA:iLEPEUCE CASABON.t and DiACANTHA are largely used as 
dot plants in connection with carpet beddmg, as well as for 
sub-tropical work. They are thistle-like plants, and may be raised 
from seed sown in February. C. CasaboncB has deep green leaves 

o 



194 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



with white veins and brown spines, whilst C. diacaiiiha has shining 
green leaves with silvery lines and ivory-white spines. They 
grow I Sin. high. 

EcHEVERiAS. — These are used for edgings, divisional lines, &:c., 
and are readily increased by offsets. The flower-stems vary 
from 6in. to i2in. in height. E. agavoides has glaucous 
green fleshy leaves, each ending in a rigid spiny point ; it is 
used as a dot plant. E. inetallica has large leaves, with a purplish 
metallic lustre. E. Peacockii has light glaucous green leaves, with 
a reddish tinge round the margins ; it is also used largely as 
a dot plant. E. seamda glmica is the one most commonly 
grown ; it forms a rosette of glaucous fleshy leaves. 

Herniaria glabra is a creeping plant of neat, close habit, 
suitable for filling in the groundwork ; it has deep olive-green 
foliage, and may easily be increased by division. It does not 
grow more than 2in. from the ground. 

Kleinia repens is a succulent plant, growing 2in. high, and 
is used for divisional lines. Its foliage is of a bluish hue. 
Increased by division in spring. 

Mentha Pulegium gibraltarica is a useful groundwork 
plant, very effective when surrounded with brighter colours ; it 
is a dwarf, dense-growing subject, having deep green foliage. 
Height, 3in. to 5in. 

MesembryanthemuiM cordifolium variegatum has creamy- 
yellow leaves, and is used for filling in panels, &c. ; it grows 
jfreely, and soon covers the ground. Increased by cuttings. 
Height, 2in. 

Pachvphytum bracteosum is an attractive succulent plant, 
!;he foliage forming a rosette of a light glaucous hue. Propagated 
Dy leaves, pulled off from the old plants, and inserted in pots 
or pans of light sandy soil, and placed in a dry, warm pit. It 
grows ift. high, and forms a useful dot plant; or it may be used 
for dividing lines. 

Sagina pilifera aurea, or glabra aurea, is an excellent 
subject for filling in panels, forming, as it does, a dense yellow 
carpet, not more than 2in. high. It may readily be increased by 
pulling the tufts in pieces and transplanting. 

Santolina incana is a neat, dwarf-growing plant, gin. high, 
producing slender, twig-like growths, and fine silvery leaves. It is 
useful as a dot plant, and miay be propagated by cuttings, 
taken in either spring or autumn. 

Saxifraga.- — -Several of these dwarf-growing subjects form 
excellent carpeting plants, for either summer- or spring-bedding. 
The foliage grows close to the ground, the flower-spikes rising 
from 6in. to i2in. high. They are m.ultiplied by offsets or 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



division. S. hypnoides^ hibernica, mtiscotdes, pulchella^ &c., form 
compact mossy-green tufts. S. pedinata has dense silvery- 
margined foliage in rosettes. 6". Aizoon, or intada, has rosettes 
of silvery leaves, and forms a good edging plant. The mossy 
kinds are useful for filling in panels. 

Sedum. — Of the kinds suitable for carpet bedding, S. glaucum 
and S. lydinin are the most popular. The former is a minute 
species, growing about 2 in. high, and densely covered with small 
grey leaves. S. lydiuin is similar in habit and stature to S. glau- 
cum^ but has greenish leaves tipped with red. They are easily 
increased by division of the old plants in spring. Used for panels. 

Sempervivum. — These are succulents forming rosettes of 
thick, fleshy leaves, growing not more than 2 in. from the 
ground. The flower-spikes are from Sin. to i2in. high. They 
delight in a light sandy soil. Propagation is effected by means 
of offsets, which in many cases are freely produced. S. mon- 
taniwi is a pretty species for edgings to small beds, &c., as it 
grows very close and thick. The leaves are tipped with red- 
brown. S. tabulceforine is an excellent dot plant for carpet 
bedding ; it forms broad rosettes of leaves, which grow close to 
the soil. S. triste is quite distinct, its beautiful rosettes of 
leaves being of a deep reddish-brown colour, and thus forming a 
striking contrast to glaucous-leaved plants. All the Semper- 
vivums are very useful for forming divisional lines, &c. 

Spergula pilifera aurea is synonymous with the plant 
described under Sagina pilifera aurea. 

Stellaria graminea aurea (Golden Chickweed) is a 
trailing plant with golden foliage, which does not grow above 
2in. or 3in. in height. It is easy of cultivation, and forms a 
bright carpeting plant for dividing lines or for filling in panels. 
Easily increased by either seeds, cuttings, or division. 

The designs furnished will give the gardener a fair idea of how 
the above-mentioned plants may be utilised in the present system 
of carpet bedding. As individual tastes differ, however, so the 
arrangements of the dwarf plants may be altered accordingly, 
and the tall plants may or may not be used as fancy 
dictates. If the beds are small, it will not be advisable to include 
too many dot plants, but hard-and-fast rules cannot be laid down, 
and in such cases the planter must use his own judgment. In 
some beds it is well to have the central portion raised from 6in. 
to 1 2 in. above the outside portion, the edge being planted with 
Echeverias or Semperviviim tabulceforine. This may easily be done 
in the beds H and I (Figs. 102 and 103), and will greatly 
enhance their beauty. 

o 2 



196 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



In bed A (Fig. 95), No. i might have a centre plant of Grevillea 
robusta, and be carpeted with Echeveria Peacockii : No. 2 with 
Semperviviim montanuni ; No. 3 with Leiicophyta Browiiii ; No. 4 
with AUer?ianthera versicolor, having a dot plant of Grevillea at 
the centre of each panel; No. 5 wdth Alt. i)aronychioides ; No. 6 




Fig. 95. — Design for Carpet Bed (A). 



with Alt. aurea nana : No. 7 with Alt. major ; No. 8 a dot 
plant of Santolina incana, carpeted with Alternanthera amabilis ; 
No. 9 should be filled in with Mesembryanthemum' cordifoliuvi 
variegatiim ; and No. 10 with Alternanthera magnifica. 

In bed B (Fig. 96) the panels numbered i might be filled in w^th 
Alternanthera annvna, and have a small plant of Acacia {Albizzia) 
lophantha inserted near the end furthest away from the centre of 
the bed ; No. 2 would look well with a centre plant ot DraccEfia 
(Cordyline) australis, or any other tall, graceful-foliaged plant, 
carpeted wdth Echeveria secunda glauca or Leiicophyta Brownii : 
panels numbered 3 might have dot plants of Drac^nas at their 
centres, and also one near each end, carpeted with Alternojithera 
magnifica; panels marked 4 with Alt. versicolor and a dot plant 
or two of Echeveria Peacockii ; No. 5 wath Alt. rosea nana: 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



and the portions marked 6 with Alt. ain-ea 7w.?ia : the ground- 
work (No. 7) might then be filled in with Heiviiaria glabj-a or 
one of the Mossy Saxifragas. 




Fig. 96. — Design for Carpet Bed (Bl 

In bed C (Fig. 97), Xo. i should be filled in with r\Iesem- 
bryanthemum, and have a plant of Acacia lophajitha at the 
centre of the heart : Xo. 2 with Alter?ianthera Jiiajor aurea : 
No. 3 with Alt ??iagnijica, having a dot plant of Acacia in the 
centre of each ; No. 4 with Sagina {Spergiila) pilifera aurea : 
those outside the panels numbered 6 should each have a plant 
of Chamaepeuce in the centre : No. 5 should be filled in with 
Leucophyta Broii>?iii or Anteiuiaria tomentosa, having a dot plant of 
Acacia in the centre : No. 6 with Fachyphytiim bracteosu??i, also 




Fig. 97. — Design for Carpet Bed (C). 

having an Acacia in the centre if the bed is made large enough to 
allow of it without overcrowding : the groundwork (No. 7) should 
consist of Herniaria or one of the Sedums. 



198 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



In bed D (Fig. 98), No. i is filled in with AlternantJiera 
magnifica ; No. 2 with Alt. versicolor : No. 3 with Alt. amo^na; 
Nos. 2 and 3 should also have a centre plant of Fiais elasfica, 




Fig. 98. — Design for Carpet Bed (Dj. 



Aralia Sieboldii, or a small Palm ; No. 4 should be filled in 
with specimen dot plants of Coleus, Perilla, Iresine, Centaurea, 
Santolina, &c., planted in opposite pairs ; No. 5 should be filled 
with Mesembryanthemum, and lined with Kleinia repens ; No. 6 
with Sagina pilifera aiirea ; No. 7 with Mentha; and the ground- 
work (No. 8) with Ajitennaria tomejitosa, Sedum glaucum, or 
Sediim lydium. 




Fig. 99. — Design for Carpet Bed (E). 

In Bed E (Fig. 99), No. i might be filled in with Alternan- 
thera viajcr.^ and No. 2 with Alt. major aurea or Stellaria 
graminea aurea; a row of from three to five plants of Chamae- 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. I99 

peuce might be placed along the middle of Nos. i and 2. No. 3 
might be planted with Kleinia repens, No. 4 with Altej-nanthera 




amcena, No. 5 with Alt. amabilis or inagiiifica, having centre plants 
of Chamsepeuce. The groundwork (No. 6) might be filled with 
Mentha, Herniaria, Antennaria, or one of the Sedums. If the 
bed is of sufficient size, Eucalyptus globulus might be substituted 
for the plants of Chamaepeuce. 

In Bed F (Fig. 100), panel No. i might be filled with 
Alternanthera anmna ; No. 2 with Echeveria secu?ida glauca or 




Fig. ioi. — Design for Carpet Bed (G). 



E. agavoides ; No. 3 with Cerasiium tomentosum or Sagina pilifera 
aurea ; No. 4 with Iresine Lindeni ; No. 5 with Alternanthera 



200 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



major ; No. 6 with Alt. mirea nana., and the groundwork 
(No. 7) with Mesembryanthemum. If dot plants are required for 
this bed, specimens of Dracaena, Grevillea, or Acacia lophantha 
might be inserted in the centre of Nos. i, 4, 5, and 6. 

In Bed G (Fig. loi), No. i should consist of a small specimen 
Yucca or Dracaena ; No. 2, Echeveria Feacockii, edged with Senipe?-- 
vivuni montanum ; No. 3, Alternanthera amcena : No. 4, Pachy- 
phytuni bracteosiim or Leiicophyta Broitmii ; No. 5, Anfe?iJia7'ia 
tonientosa or Alter?iant]iera major aurea ; No. 6, Alternanthera 




Fig. 102. — Design for Carpet Bed (H). 



versicolor ; No. 7, Mesembryanthemum ; No. 8, Mentha. The 
centres of Nos. 4 and 5 should consist of small specimen 
Palms ; whilst the centres of the panels 7 and 8 might with 
advantage have plants of Coleus, Perilla, or Iresine inserted. 

All the panels should be raised and bevelled off, the central 
cross of Echeveria Peacockii being raised still further, and the 
6'. montanum planted on the sides. A nice plant of Chamae- 
peuce may be planted in the centre of the panels No. 6. 

In Bed H (Fig. 102), No. i might be filled with Kleinia ?rpens, 
having a centre plant of Aralia Sieboldii ; No. 2 with Alter nan- 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



201 



thera versicolor ; . No. 3 with Alt. paronychioides, having a small 
plant of Ficus elastica at each of the four corners ; No. 4 Avith 
Mentha; No. 5 with Echeveria secunda glaiica ; No. 6 with 
Alternaiithera amana, having centre dot plants of Centaiu-ea 
ragiisi?ia compada or Santolina incana : No. 7 with Alternan- 
thera aurea nana; No. 8 with Echeveria metallica : No. 9 with 
Cerastiiim toiJientosum, having dot plants of Iresine in the 
centre; No. 10 with Mesembryanthemum ; No. 11 with Alfernan- 
thera major aiirea, having dot plants of Chamgepeuce ; No. 12 




Fig. 103. — Design for Carpet Bed (I). 



with Antennaria or Spergula, interspersed with Semperviv2im 
tabiilcEforme or S. triste. The beauty of the bed will be improved 
if the whole of the central portion from No. 5 inwards is 
raised about 8in., and the Echeveria planted in a double row on 
the edge. 

In Bed I (Fig. 103), No. i should have a centre plant of Grevillea 
robusta or Eucalyptus globulus^ and be carpeted with Alternanthera 
magtiifica or Alt. versicolor : No. 2 would be best filled in with 
Mesembryanthemum or Sagina pilifera au7-ea ; No. 3 with 
Herniaria or Mentha ; No. 4 with Alternanthei-a major : No. 5 with 



202 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Alt. rosea nana ; and No. 6 with Ait aiirea ?iana. The three out- 
side panels numbered 5, and also the three outermost numbered 6, 




Fig. 104. — Design for Carpet Bed (J). 



might each have a specimen plant of Grevillea in the centre, or 
those numbered 5 would look well with a plant of Chamaepeuce 
in the centre, and those numbered 6 with one of Coleus. 

In Bed J (Fig. 104), No. i might be filled in with Iresine or 
Alternanthera t>aronychioides ; No. 2 with Echeveria secunda 




Fig. 105. — Design for Carpet Bed (K). 



glauca ; No. 3 with Mesembryanthemum ; the panels numbered 
4 might be planted with Alternanthera am(xna, and have a 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



203 



plant of Abutilon Thompsoni in the round portions at each end 

of the panels. The number 5's should each have a centre 
plant of Abutilon, and be carpeted with Pachyphytiim bracteosum ; 
No. 6 with Alternmithera versicolor ; No. 7 with Alt. major 
niirea or Alt. aiirea nana ; the groundwork (No. 8) being 
carpeted with Mentha, Herniaria, Antennaria, or Sedum glaucum^ 
In Bed K (Fig. 105), panel No. i might be planted with 
Alternanthera aiirea, having a centre plant of Perilla ; No. 2 with 
Alt. amoena; while the top and the two lower No. 2 panels 
might each have a centre plant of Chamsepeuce ; No. 3 with 
Alterfianthera versicolor., having centre plants of Centaurea ; No. 4 
with Alternanthera magnifica : No. 5 with specimen dot plants- 
of Perilla ; the groundwork (No. 6) might be filled in with 
Mentha, Herniaria, Antennaria, or Stellaria. 




Fig. 106. — Design for Carpet Bed (L). 



In Bed L (Fig. 106), No. i should be planted with a specimen 
Dracaena or Aralia ; No. 2 with Echeveria Peacockii ; No. 3 with 
Alternanthera amoena ; No. 4 with Alt. aiirea nana., having 
centre plants of Iresine ; No. 5 with Alt. magnifica or Alt. rosea 
nana, having centre plants of Acacia lophantha ; No. 6 with 
Alternanthera versicolor or Alt. major ; the groundwork (No. 7) 
with Mentha, Mesembryanthemum, Antennaria, Herniaria, or 
Sedum. The central panel might be nicely moulded from a 
slightly raised centre to the edges. 

Spring Bedding. 

This consists in planting beds in the autumn with bulbs and 
hardy herbaceous subjects for an early spring display. When the 
summer bedders have lost their beauty, and no longer present 
an attractive appearance, they are removed — those that are 
required for next season's display are placed in their winter 



204 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



quarters, whilst the others, such as Pelargoniums, from which an 
ample stock of cuttings have been procured, are thrown away. 
It is then usual to dig over the beds, and plant immediately 
with the spring-flowering subjects ; this is generally done in 
September and October — the sooner the better — so that the 
plants may be well established before winter sets in. 

Bulbs play a very important part in the decoration of the 
beds in spring. For this purpose they should be procured as soon 
as convenient in the autumn, those known as " Dutch bulbs " 
being inserted as soon as they arrive from the Continent, 
if the best results are to be obtained. They answer splendidly 
either grown in beds by themselves or mixed with other spring- 
flowering subjects, such as Polyanthuses, &c. After flowering 
they must be removed, so as to make room for the summer 
bedders, and this very often, if not always, has to be done 
before the foliage has died down, in which case they must be 
laid close together in beds in the reserve garden or in damp 
ashes, &c., to thoroughly ripen off. For a list of bulbs and 
tubers the reader is referred to the chapter upon the subject. 

The varieties of these subjects are very numerous, and it 
will not be necessary to mention them here, as large quantities 
may be procured from our various seedsmen, either in named 
varieties or in mixed sorts. The catalogues generally give the 
colour of each kind. 

Hardy annuals are also used for spring bedding : these are 
obtained from seed sown in July or August in the reserve 
garden, transplanting the seedlings when large enough, so as to 
make fine strong plants for transferring to their permanent 
positions in September and October. 

The hardy perennials, when removed from the beds in 
spring, are planted in the reserve garden, there to have every 
attention as regards watering, weeding, Szc, until required for 
transferring to their flowering quarters again in the autumn. 
Propagation is generally effected by division of the old plants 
when transplanting, in either the spring or autumn. Large 
numbers may also be raised from cuttings or from seeds. 

The arrangement of the plants in the beds is an item which 
■demands attention, if good results are to be obtained • but in 
this matter each admirer . has his own particular fancy, and 
excellent effects are produced by blending and contrasting 
■colours in a variety of ways. It is a mistake to aim at too 
much in a single bed, two or three colours being quite sufficient 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



205 



to produce a charming display. In planting round beds it is a 
general rule to do so in circles, using first one colour and then 
another, alternately, say, a circle of white Arabis, then one of 
yellow Alyssum, and then one of the blue Myosotis. Excellent 
effect is, however, obtained by filling beds with .distinct families 
of plants ; for instance, a bed filled with mixed Polyanthuses in 
various shades of colour proves very attractive ; Wallflowers 
might also be used in a similar way. 

The following are the most important of the spring-flowering 
subjects suitable for bedding : 

Alyssums. — The Golden Alyssum (A. saxatile compadum) 
grows 6in. high, and in spring is covered with golden -yellow 
flowers ; it contrasts charmingly with the white Arabis and blue 
Aubrietia. 

Anemones. — Several of the Anemones are useful bedding 
plants, including A. blanda^ with deep blue flowers ; A. apemiina, 
with lovely light blue flowers ; and A. coro?iaria^ with flowers 
of various shades of colour. This last-mentioned is one of the 
parents of the "florists' Anemones," which are indispensable for 
spring flowering ; the tubers 
should be taken up, thoroughly 
ripened, cleaned, and stored 
away until planting time. 

Arabis albida (white Arabis) 
is a compact plant, growing 
6in. high, covered in spring 
with a mass of white flowers. 
The variety with variegated 
foliage is suitable as an edging 
plant. 

AuBRiETiAS. — These are 
charming dwarf plants for spring 
bedding, producing sheets of 
flowers of various colours, in- 
cluding blue, violet, purple, and 
rose-red. A. deltoidea (Fig. 107) 
has bluish flowers; A. Camp- Fig. 10 7. -Aubrietia deltoidea. 

belli and A. grcEca have purple 

flowers, and are of neat and effective habit ; A. Leichflinii is one 
of the very best of the family, forming perfect sheets of reddish- 
crimson flowers ; it is splendid for massing and for edgings. 
The only drawback to the cultivation of Aubrietias for spring 
bedding is that they are often in full flower when the beds 
are required for the summer occupants, and they have there- 
fore to be removed whilst they are doing good service ; they 




2o6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



are not alone in this respect, however, and if the precaution 
is taken to plant these and similar subjects in beds that are 
intended for sub-tropical and carpet-bedding plants (which are 
generally made up after the ordinary summer-bedders), the difficulty 
will be to a certain degree overcome, as the plants will have 
an extra w^eek or two in which to display their brilliant colours. 

Candytuft. — See Iberis. 

Daisies. — The double varieties are indispensable for spring 
gardening. Several named varieties, with pink, red, and white 
flowers are in existence. If seed is sown in April, the plants 
will flower during the summer, and the best of these should be 
selected for spring bedding. 

Erysimums. — -Described under " Hardy Annuals." 

Iberis. — The Candytufts are charming spring-flowering plants, 
producing an abundance of whitish flowers, which remain long 




Fig. io8. — Iberis sempervirens. 



in beauty. L se7nper7jirens (Y'lg. io8) is the Evergreen Candytuft; 
it is of branching habit, grows 9in. high, and produces pure 
white flowers. The variety Garrexiana also has large handsome 
heads of pure white flowers. /. gibraltarica has large white 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



207 



flowers, changing to a soft pink with age; it grows from i2in. 
to I Sin. high, is of stragghng growth, and requires a well-drained 
soil. 

Myosotis (Forget-me-Not). — These are lovely subjects for 
spring flowering ; they are of easy cultivation in any damp 
ordinary garden soil. M. dissitiflora is a well-known bedding 
variety, growing^ 6in. high, and bearing a succession of clear blue 
flowers from February 
(in favourable seasons) 
onwards throughout the 
spring. 

Phlox. — ^The dwarf 
early-flowering varieties 
are extremely useful for 
spring display ; of these 
the two following are 
the species generally 
grown : P. amoena, an 
excellent plant, 6in. 
high, with bright pink 
flowers. P. subulata 
■ (Fig. 109), with pinkish 
flowers, having dark 
centres ; of prostrate 
habit, seldom rising more than 6in. from the ground ; it is noted 
for its free-flowering qualities. 

Polyanthus. — ^These are showy subjects for spring bedding, 
and are useful for growing in beds by themselves, or for mixing 
with other plants ; they grow to a height of 6in. A packet of 
mixed seed, procured from any of our nurserymen, will yield an 
abundance of plants with rich and various-coloured flowers. 
These plants are fully dealt with in " Florists' Flowers." 

SiLENES. — The species S. pendtila and S. compada are plants 
largely used for spring bedding ; the former grows upwards of 
ift. in height, whilst the latter averages 6in. ; both have bright 
rose-coloured flowers. There are several named forms of conipacta^ 
including Snow King, with large white flowers, and Amelia, with 
pretty rose-coloured flowers ; of dwarf and compact habit. 

Violas. — Many of these are indispensable for spring bedding ; 
they grow only 6in. high, and blossom profusely during the early 
spring. Distinct varieties must be propagated by cuttings or 
division. Numerous named varieties are in cultivation, all of 
which are fine bedding plants. See also the Chapter upon 
"Florists' Flowers." 

Wallflowers. — These handsome old-fashioned favourites are 
extremely effective, and are highly appreciated for their massive 
spikes of large sweet-scented flowers. There are several shades 




Fig. 109. — Phlox subulata. 



2o8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



of . colour, the chief being golden-yellow and blood-red. Seed 
may be obtained in carefully selected strains from any of our 
nurserymen. {See " Biennials.") 

Winter Bedding-. 

This is a style of bedding which is very little practised, it 
usually being the custom to fill the beds with bulbs and other 
hardy subjects in the autumn for spring display, and the con- 
sequence is that throughout the dull dark days of winter the 
beds present a very bare and uninteresting appearance. 

When they are at some distance from the house, or in 
parts of the garden little frequented in winter, this prevailing 
bareness does not matter much ; but when the beds are on the 
lawn immediately in front of the house, as is often the case, it 
is evident that they ought to be filled with plants of some sort,, 
so as to make a show during the winter. 

Taking into consideration that the beds are required for 
summer occupants, and therefore cannot be planted with 
permanent subjects, it is obvious that those selected to 
fulfil the requirements of winter bedding, must be such that wilt 
bear transplanting well, and at the same time they must be 
perfectly hard)^ The plants that possess these essentials are 
undoubtedly our hardy evergreen shrubs and small Conifers, and 
seeing what a wealth of these subjects are now in our possession, 
it is a pity that they are not more used for the decoration of 
beds in winter. Of course, if spring bedding is to be 
adopted in its entirety, winter bedding is impossible : but why 
not come to a compromise between the two systems, and have 
a little of both ? For instance, some of the beds might be 
filled with hardy evergreens, and the remainder with spring, 
bedding-plants ; the effect would then be materially improved, 
for during the winter the evergreens would enliven the scene to- 
a certain extent, whilst in the spring, when they were making 
their new growth, and the spring-bedders were at the zenith of 
their beauty, the effect would be charming. If the evergreens 
are grown in pots for this purpose, it is only necessary to- 
plunge them in the beds in the autumn, and to remove 
them in the spring. The best place for them during the 
summer is in the reserve garden, plunging them in soil or 
ashes, and taking care that they do not suffer for want of 
water. Growing in pots is a good method, for, their roots, 
being restricted, they do not grow so freely, and they are 



ON BEDDING PLANTS. 



therefore available for service for a much longer time than 
those planted out. 

If the evergreens, however, are planted out in the beds, the 
greatest care must be taken in planting and replanting, or they 
will suffer by the somewhat harsh treatment to which they are 
subjected by being lifted twice a year. They should be planted 
in the late autumn and removed again about April It is not 
advisable to defer lifting and transferring to their summer 
quarters later than is absolutely necessary, as the plants ought 
to be established before the hot, scorching days of summer set 
in. The best plan is to plant them carefully in a somewhat 
shaded border in the reserve garden, the only attention necessary 
during the summer being that of watering, keeping clean, &c. 

The following list of Conifers includes most of those suitable 
for winter bedding : Crypto77ieria japonica elegans and variety 
nana ; Ciipressus nootkatensis ( Thuyopsis borealis ) and variety 
compacta ; Ciipressus Lawsoniana and its many varieties, including 
argentea^ compacta^ naita, albopicta, &c. ; Ciipressus obtusa and 
varieties aurea, nana-compacta, &c. ; Ciipressus pisifera and varieties 
plu7nosa^ plumosa aurea^ squarrosa, &c. (the two last-mentioned 
species and their varieties are generally known in gardens under 
the name of Retinosporas) ; Ciipressus thyoides {Cha?)icEcyparis 
sphcsroidea) ; the dwarf varieties of Picea excelsa (Norway 
Spruce) ; Taxus baccata aurea and ekgantissinia, also fastigiata 
(the Irish Yew) ; Thuya occidentalis (the American Arbor-Vitae) 
and its varieties aurea, erecta-viridis, globosa, &c. ; Thuya orientalis 
(Chinese Arbor-Vitae) and its varieties aurea, compacta, 
elegantissima, semper aurescetis, &c. (these are generally known as 
Biotas), Those known as Retinosporas and Biotas are decidedly 
the best of the Conifers for winter bedding. 

A large number of our hardy evergreen shrubs are also 
suitable for winter bedding, of which the following might be 
mentioned : Aucubas ; Berberis Aquifolium (generally known as 
Mahonia Aquifolia) and B. Wallichiana ; Buxus (Box) in variety ; 
Euonymiis japoniciis and radicans variegata ; Hollies, in variety ; 
Ivies (the different forms of Tree-Ivy) ; Laurels (especially the 
Portugal) ; Laurustinus ; Osmanthus (a dwarf Holly-like plant) ; 
Pernettyas ; Phillyreas ; Skimmias, &c. The variegated Euonymus 
and variegated Tree-Ivies are the showiest of the evergreen 
shrubs, and may be used with excellent effect in combination 
with any of the other subjects mentioned ; the former is an 
excellent edging plant. 

p 



210 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



As a rule, it is best to keep beds of mixed Conifers distinct 
from those of shrubs, but such plants as the Yew will be quite 
at home in either combination, and beds devoted to the Yew 
and Osmanthus, with an edging of variegated Euonymus, present 
-a very cheerful appearance during winter. 

It is not necessary to confine winter bedding strictly to the 
planting of Conifers and evergreen shrubs, for many other hardy 
evergreen plants, such as the large-leaved Saxifrages or Megaseas, 
may be used with equal effect ; but enough has been said to 
show that there is no dearth of subjects suitable for this much- 
neglected style of bedding. Those who require still further 
information with respect to Trees and Shrubs will find it in the 
chapter devoted to that subject. 




Saxifraga purpurascens. 




By J. M. Abbott. 



Annuals are plants which, botanically speaking, grow from the 
seed, flower, fruit, and die within the short space of one year. 
This definition is, however, not absolutely correct, as some annuals, 
by a special mode of culture, may be enticed to live longer. 
Such is the case with the Mignonette, which will continue to 
flower for two or more years, if the old blossoms are pinched off 
as they decay, thus preventing seed from ripening, and throwing 
the strength of the plant into the production of more growth 
and flower. 

For a long time, annuals occupied a very subordinate position 
in the garden, this no doubt being due to the fact that they 
were cultivated in a manner not calculated to show them off to 
the best advantage. Perhaps the craze for " summer bedding " 
also helped to bring about this deplorable state of affairs. Far 
too often the only cultivation they received was the scratching 
over of the surface-soil with a rake, followed by the seed-sowing. 
For the rest they were allowed to take care of themselves, and, if 
they escaped the attacks of slugs, &c., they were left unthinned 
and unlooked-after, the result being a weak, spindly growth, and 
consequently a short-lived, miserable show of flowers. Like all 
other plants, they require attention to bring them to perfection, and 
under good cultivation they produce a splendid display. They are 
certainly a beautiful class of plants, and it is a pity that they 
should ■ have fallen into such a state of neglect. At the present 
day, however, it is gratifying to observe a distinct revival in the 



212 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



cultivation of annuals, and let us hope that ere long they will 
be thought as much of as they were in the days of our forefathers, 
before the introduction of the bedding Pelargonium. Our public 
parks and gardens are moving a step in the right direction by 
introducing numerous annuals into their summer bedding 
arrangements, and thereby raising the standard of this class of 
plants in the eyes of the garden-loving public. 

The chief use of annuals is undoubtedly the embellishment of 
the mixed herbaceous border. If time and money are at 
command, the border may be kept quite gay with annuals for 
a considerable time, for, as the old clumps get shabby, they may 
be replaced by other annuals, which have been grown on in 
pots, and, therefore, do not suffer much by planting oat during 
the heat of summer. An extensive herbaceous border, however, 
if treated in this manner, entails a large amount of labour, as, 
in addition to the growing of plants in pots for succession, there 
are the weeding, staking, watering during dry weather, &:c. — - 
operations which must be attended to in order to keep the 
border in a presentable condition. 

Some annuals make excellent beds in themselves, such, for 
instance, as the Virginian Stock, and some are also very useful 
in summer bedding, but as a chapter is devoted to bedding, 
it will be out of place to deal with that here. 

Annuals which are grown for outside display are divided 
into two classes, viz., Hardy and Half-hardy. 

Hardy Annuals. 

This class includes all those plants that are able to withstand 
the winter in the open ground. The time of sowing must, how- 
ever, depend largely upon the time when the display of flower 
is required. 

Methods of Raising — For Early Show. — If the plants are 
intended to flower in April and May, the best time to sow is 
in August and September, selecting a warm, sheltered border. 
The most suitable soil for the majority of annuals is a sandy 
loam, which, if poor, ought to have been moderately enriched 
with manure, and deeply dug some time previously. The first 
thing to do, then, is to level the border and make the surface soil 
fine and even by means of a rake ; the seed should then be 
sown in shallow drills, and a little fine soil drawn over it, the 
quantity depending upon the size of the seed, very small seed 
requiring only a mere sprinkling of soil, just enough to cover 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



213 



it, whilst larger seed may have a depth of a quarter of an inch 
or so. 

Sowing in drills, as recommended, is a much better plan than 
sowing broadcast, as the operator is then able to run the hoe 
in between the rows, and so keep the surface of the soil open for 
the admission of air, a state which is very beneficial to the 
young seedlings. Another advantage is that the young 
plants can be much more easily and expeditiously thinned. After 
sowing, a good soaking should be given through a fine rose, so 
as not to disturb the seeds, and a thin shading of tiffany, or 
other light material, should be thrown over the border to pre- 
vent excessive evaporation, and keep it in a uniform state of 
moisture. Great care must be taken to remove this as soon as 
the seedlings show the slightest sign of breaking through the soil, 
or they will be spoiled. As soon as the seedlings appear, and 
are large enough to handle, they should be thinned, so as to 
get sturdy little plants, which are better able to withstand the 
winter, and are also in a much better condition for removal 
to their permanent positions in spring. If allowed to grow up 
without thinning, the roots become matted together, and get 
broken during transplanting, and the plants are thereby weak- 
ened. After thinning, the only attention that is needed is to 
keep them well watered and free from weeds during the 
remainder of the autumn. If exceptionally hard weather sets in 
during the winter, they may have a few dry leaves, or other 
light material, thrown in amongst them, so as to break the 
force of the frost. The best time to transplant into their 
flowering positions is in March, or even earlier, if the weather will 
allow. At this sowing, only the hardiest kinds should be sown. 

February Sowing. — This may be done in a cold frame 
or handlight, thinning out the seedlings when large enough, 
and finally transplanting into their flowering quarters during 
favourable weather in April and May. The general plan, however, 
is to sow the seed in pans or boxes in a warm house, prick 
off the seedlings into other boxes, gradually hardening them off, 
by inuring to light and air, and afterwards transferring to the open 
border when fear of sharp frost is past. A very handy size of box 
is one about i8in. or 2oin. long, by loin. to i2in. wide, and 4in. 
deep. 

Late Sowing. — For late summer and autumn display, the 
usual plan is to sow where the plants are intended to flower, in 



214 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



April, May, and even June, if a late autumn show is needed; the 
seed ought to be sown thinly in patches or broad masses, if effective 
displays are aimed at, taking care that this is not done in wet 
weather, when the soil is in a pasty condition. The ground should 
be deeply dug and enriched with old hotbed manure, leaf-mould, 
&c., the surface being made fine by raking. It is a mistake to 
apply too much manure, especially cow- or horse-manure, as over- 
abundant nutriment tends to promote vegetative growth rather 
than the production of flowers. At the same time a sowing may 
be made in pans in a cool house, and the seedlings pricked 
off singly into small pots ; these come in very useful for trans- 
ferring to the open border, taking the place of those which 
have flowered earlier and have been removed. 

General Treatment of Hardy and Half-hardy Annuals 
Grown in the Open Border. ^ — -When annuals are sown in the 
positions in which they are intended to flov/er, one of the most 
important items to be observed in their cultivation is that of 
thinning, and it is one that well repays for the time occupied in 
its execution. Very often annuals are sown thickly in patches 
in the borders, and allowed to run into flower without any 
attention being paid to this important item, and the result is 
that they neither blossom so freely nor are the flowers so fine 
as when properly thinned. As soon as the seedhngs are large 
enough to be easily handled, thinning must commence, pulling 
out all the weakly seedlings, and leaving only those that 
promise to make sturdy, healthy specimens. Finally, they 
should be thinned so as to leave from three to a dozen to the 
square foot, the quantity depending upon the size of the mature 
plant : each one must have sufficient room to develop properly. 
Slugs very often prove a nuisance in the garden, and they 
appear to be particularly fond of annuals when in the young 
state, so that the gardener will act wisely if he is on the alert 
to prevent their ravages. They seem to have a decided objec- 
tion to soot, and it is, therefore, a good plan to sprinkle a little 
over the soil previous to sowing and working it in, afterwards 
scattering a little over the surface. A ring of dry sharp sand is 
sometimes placed around the patch of seedlings for the same 
purpose ; but bran laid in patches, or brewers' grains similarly 
disposed, will be found very attractive. 

Staking is another point which must be attended to, if the 
plants are to be shown off to the best advantage ; and it is 
unfortunately a point which is very often done badly. There 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



cannot possibly be anything more unsightly in an otherwise 
neat and well-kept garden than that of seeing a number of thick 
rough stakes about the border. When stakes are used they 
ought to be placed so as to be as little seen as possible ; the 
stakes themselves should also be neat in appearance, and pre- 
ferably green-painted ones, so that if it is impossible to hide 
them, they will not strike the eye as unsightly objects. Another 
thing to avoid in staking is that of placing a single stake 
in the centre of a group of annuals, or, in fact, any other 
plants, and binding the whole lot to it in a bundle, much after 
the same fashion as a sheaf of corn. If one stake only is 
used, the plants should be looped up lightly to it, not bound 
up tightly, as though the owner were afraid of them running 
away. Staking is an operation which must be attended to in 
good time, as when once the plants get beaten down by wind or 
rain, it is no easy matter to stake them so that they may again 
appear neat and tidy. For graceful, loose-growing subjects, such 
as Gypsophilas, Coreopsis, &c., it is best to use twiggy branches, 
placing them around and amongst the plants in good time, so 
that when the plants have grown to their full size, the supports 
will be hidden amongst the foliage. 

If the foregoing operations are promptly attended to, together 
with those of weeding and watering, these lovely plants will well 
repay the cultivator for his pains by a display of flowers which 
ought to convince even the most fastidious of observers that 
annuals are worthy of a place in every British garden. 

The following is a selection of hardy kinds : 

Adonis aestivalis (Fig. no), often 
known as Adojiis Flos, the Pheasant's 
Eye, is a compact free-flowering little 
plant, I ft. in height, producing its 
beautiful crimson-scarlet flowers in June 
and July ; it forms a very effective 
border plant, and is quite easy of 
cultivation. 

Agrostemma cceli-rosa (Rose of 
Heaven), often referred to Lychnis, is 
a free-flowering and exceedingly pretty 
plant, I ft. high, the flowers varying in 
colour, some being white, others rose, 
whilst others again have a tinge of 
purple in them. It flowers in July. This 
is sometimes given under the name of 
Eudianthe cali-i'osa. 




Fig. no. — Adonis 

-ESTIVA LIS. 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING, 



There is a variety grown in gardens, fimhriata^ having rose- 
coloured flowers with white centres, VN^hich is certainly an 
improvement on the type. As its name implies, it has fringed 

petals (Fig. in). Another 
variety, with dark purplish 
flowers and of neat, compact 
habit, is known as purpurea \ 
it forms an ornamental plant 
for growing in dense patches 
in the border. 

Alyssum maritimum, 
often known as Kceniga 
inaritima^ is the Sweet Alys- 
sum. Though only growing 
6in. high, it forms a charming 
little bedding plant, valuable 
also for rockwork and for 
edgings in the spring flower 
garden, producing, as it does, 
numerous small white flowers 
on its much-branched stem. 
It commences to flower in 
early spring, and continues 
throughout most of the sum- 
mer. It produces seed in 
abundance, and if not inter- 
fered with, will become self- 
FiG. III. — Agrostemma ccELi-RosA sown. It is an excellent 
FJMBRiATA. bec-plant, and is familiar 

in some gardens under the 
name of Alyssum odoratum. There are in cultivation two or 
three varieties of it, viz., Little Gem, a dwarf compact-growing 
plant, only 4in. high, suitable for edging, and Rock Alyssum, 
a dwarf, spreading plant, valuable for rockwork, baskets, or vases. 
Both varieties have white flowers. A variegated form is also 
grown. 

Amblyolepis setigera {Helenium seiigerwn). — A composite 
plant, with fragrant orange-yellow flowers. It is a native of 
Texas, and, in this country, grows from ift. to 2ft. high. 
Although seen at its best in July, it flowers most of the 
summer. 

Ambrosia mexicana is a fragrant hardy annual, growing 2ft. 
high ; it is valuable for bedding on account of its sweet-scented 
and ornamental foliage. 

Ammobium alatum (Winged Everlasting) is closely related 
to the Gnaphaliums. It has white, chaffy flowers, with numerous 
yellow disk-florets, borne from May to September ; height from 




ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



i^ft. to 3ft. On light sandy soils, it very often assumes a 
perennial form, but on heavy ground it should be treated as an 
.annual. It does well if seed is sown in the autumn, the plants 
being kept in a cool house until spring. The variety grandi- 
Jloruni, with flowers almost twice as large as the type, and 
much whiter in colour, forms a fine ornamental border plant, 
and is also much prized for cutting. It grows about 2ft. high, 
■comes true from seed, and is a decided improvement on the 
species. 

Anchusa affinis, one of the Borage Worts, with cobalt-blue 
ilowers, blossoms all the summer and autumn. It is of bushy 
habit, growing about ift. high. 

AvENA STERiLis (Animated Oat) is an elegant plant, growing 
2ft. high, and producing loose panicles of drooping barren flowers; 
it belongs to the same genus as the common Oat, and is easily 
■grow^n. 

Bartonia aurea (Fig. 112) is a very ornamental and deco- 
rative plant, with large golden-yellow flowers an inch or more 
across ; they open in the evening, and are then very fragrant ; 
.as they fade they assume a reddish tinge. It grows to a height 
of i^ft, and produces flowers 
.about June. It is best sown 
in April, in the position in 
which it is intended to 
flower, the seedlings being 
thinned out to a distance of 
4in. The seed should only 
have the m.erest sprinkling 
•of soil over it, as it is very 
fine, and if buried too deep 
it would be impossible for it 
to push through. It is best 
•grown in patches in the 
herbaceous border, where its 
bright flowers are shown off 
to advantage ; it would also 
do admirably in a prominent 
position in the rock garden, 
care being taken that it does 

not smother any of the yig. 112.— Bartonia aurea. 

•dwarf-growing alpines. 

Briza minor (Small Quaking Grass) (Fig. 113), known also as 
B. gracilis and B. minima^ is one of our native grasses, being 
found occasionally in the southern counties of England. It is 
very much like the common Quaking Grass, though decidedly 
smaller, seldom growing more than Sin. or gin. in height. The 
seed may be sown in the open border in March, and the plants 




2l8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



will then flower in June and July. It is a very ornamental, 
graceful plant, and is alike at home in the hardy fernery and 
in the herbaceous border. It is also largely grown for cut 
flowers, as it is exceedingly useful for making up bouquets and 
for the decoration of vases ; for this purpose a large batch of 




Fig. 113. — Briza minor. , Fig. 114. — Briza maxima. 

it should be grown in a part of the garden devoted entirely to 
growing plants for cut flow^ers, and when the branches are full 
grown they should be cut and placed in stands to dry, or hung 
up in light airy positions in the sheds. Another good ornamental 
grass is B. maxima (Fig. 114). 

Cacalia coccinea (Flora's Paint-brush) is an attractive 
composite border plant, growing to a height of i^ft., and 
producing brilliant scarlet flowers. Cacalia aurea is much the 
same in height and habit, but differs in having bright orange- 
coloured flowers. These species form excellent border plants, 
and the cut flowers are sought after for bouquets and vases. 
Cacalias should be sown in the border in April. 

Calandrinia speciosa (syn. C. Menziesii) is one of the Rock- 
Purslanes, and is useful for either borders or rockw^ork. It is 
very dwarf-growing, seldom exceeding 6in. in height, yet 
producing large, rosy-purple flowers, lin. across. It should be 
grown in a light, sandy soil, and if sown early in spring where 
it is intended to flower, a succession of blossom will be kept up 
from June to September. As the Calandrinias only open their 
flowers during bright sunshine, they should have a sunny 
situation giveii them. A w^hite variety is now offered, under the 
name of C. speciosa alba ; this may either be grown separately or 
mixed with the type, in which case it shows off to advantage. 

Calendula. — C. officinalis (Pot Marigold) is an interesting 
old-fashioned garden plant, grown extensively for its large 
yellow flowers. The typical plant grows to a height of 2ft., 
and flowers from June to September. If sown in March or 
April, and the plants thinned to 9in. apart, they form excellent 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



219 



subjects for the mixed herbaceous border ; they are also suitable 
for showy positions in the wild garden or woodland, in which 
situations they should be sown or planted to form bold groups. 
A large number of varieties are now sent out, amongst the 
best being Meteor, double, yellow, striped with brown, ift. ; 
Orange King, ift. ; Yellow Queen, double; Prince of Orange, 
I ft. Calendula pluvialis {Dimorphotheca pluvialis\ the Cape 
Marigold, is a free-growing subject, very effective in beds and 
borders, producing large single white flowers, with golden centres, 
the underside of the petals being of a rich maroon colour. It 
is a plant somewhat resembling a Marguerite, and grows to a 
height of I Sin. Flowers in June and July. 

Calliopsis. — The plants 
found in catalogues under 
this name will be noted under 
" Coreopsis." 

Callirhoe pedata (Poppy 
Mallow) is an elegant mal- 
vaceous plant with beautiful 
saucer-shaped flowers of a 
brilliant carmine, with a white 
centre. It grows to a height 
of 2ft. Seed should be sown 
early in spring, steeping it well 
before sowing, and transplant- 
ing into a moderately dry soil, 
in which position it will com- 
mence to flower in July, and 
will keep on until quite late 
in the autumn. The variety 
nana is a dwarf form, growing 
ift. high, with flowers like the 
type. It thrives best in poor 
dry soil, and is very effective 
in flower-beds and borders. 
As the Callirhoes make tap- 
roots, great care must be 
taken in transplanting. 

Centaurea. — C. Cyanus 
(Cornflower, Fig. 115) is one 
of the loveliest of our blue- 
flowered annuals. It is a 
native plant, growing to a 

height of 3ft., and flowering in July. Although the typical 
colour is a bright blue, considerable variation is shown, some 
being found with pure white, others with purplish flowers, whilst 
others again are of a deep rose. Several named varieties are 




Fig. 115. — Centaurea Cyanus. 



220 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



now advertised, such as Victoria Blue, a lovely little plant for 
edgings, rockwork, &:c., with bright blue flowers : it is very 
dwarf, growing only 6in. high ; Emperor William, another dwarf 
annual, with blue flowers, &:c. 

These varieties of C. Cya?ius are exceedingly showy plants 
for the herbaceous border, and also make charming pictures 
when grown in quantity in wild gardens and woodlands. A 
■small bed in the flower-garden would produce a grand display 
if sown with mixed seed, saved from the dwarf-growing kinds. 
The cut flowers are also highly prized for vases and bouquets. 
The Cornflower will stand our hardest winter outside without 
injury. It is best sown in the early autumn in beds, to be 
transplanted in the early spring into its flowering quarters ; it 
would do equally well if sown at the same time of the 3'ear 
in the position in which it is intended to flower. C. depressa is a 
showy annual with fine blue flowers, having crimson centres. 
It is rather like the common Cornflower, but has brighter flowers, 
and is much dwarfer, growing only ift. high. C. suaveole?is, 
more generally known as Sweet Sultan, is an effective plant, 

with showy thistle- shaped 
flowers, useful for cutting 
for bouquets : they are 
very fragrant, and last a 
long time in water. There 
are three varieties with 
white, purple, and yellow 
flowers, the last-mentioned 
being much the prettiest 
If sown \n autumn the 
plants produce larger 
flowers and also blossom 
longer than if sown in 
spring. They grow to a 
height of ijft. 

Chrysanthemums. 

These form a lovelv set 
of plants, and should be 
grown in every garden, 
whether large or small. 
They are exceedingly free 
flowering, of neat, robust 
habit, and are very use- 
ful decorative subjects, 
whether grown in beds 
by themselves, m large 
patches in the mixed flower-border, or in bold groups in the 
Avild garden. The cut flowers are also highly appreciated for 
bouquets. C. cariiiatuni (Tricolor Chrysanthemum, or Summer 




ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



22 1 



Marguerite, as it is often called) is extensively grown in 
beds and borders, and is also valuable for cut flowers. It 
attains a height of 2ft., producing its purple and white flowers 
during August. Numerous varieties of it are now in cultivation, 
one of the best being Burridgemiwn (Fig. 116), a compact- 
growing plant, bearing white or yellow flowers, with crimson 
or purplish-brown rings, enclosing a purple disk, and growing 
to a height of i8in. ; Lord Beaconsfield, a form with mauve 
and yellow flowers growing 2ft. high, is also very good. There 
are numerous others, some with large handsome double flowers 
of many beautiful shades ; others with double fringed flowers in 
white, rose, orange, scarlet, crimson, c^c. ; others, again, with 
bright single flowers ; whilst a further section have golden leaves. 
These will be noted in the " Appendix." 

C. coronariuni (Crown Daisy) is a useful border-plant, 
thriving well under the influence of smoke. It is, therefore, a 
favourite in town gardens, growing to a height of 22ft., and 
flowering continuously from July to September. The typical 
flower is yellow, but under cultivation, and in the hands of the 
hybridist, several forms have originated, so that we now have 
varieties with double yellow, white, and lemon flowers. It is 
best sown in April or early in May. C segetiini (Corn Marigold), 
although a British plant, is worthy of a position in the flower- 
border. It grows to a height of i8in., and produces its yellow 
flowers from June to August. The variety grandiflorum is a 
first-rate border-plant, growing 2ft. high, and bearing very large 
rich yellow flowers, which are greatly valued for cutting. 

Clarkias are free-flowering border plants, of light, graceful 
habit, and very easy of culture. The seed may be sown outside in 
September, either in permanent positions or in beds for trans- 
planting into the open border as soon as large enough ; these 
will flower well in the early spring. The first sowing in spring 
should take place in March, thinning the plants to about Qin. apart ; 
these will flower in July, when the autumn-sown plants are past 
their best. Other sowings for succession should be made until 
about the beginning of June, these keeping up a supply of flowers 
until the end of October. Clarkia elegans is an erect-growing 
much-branched annual, 2ft. high, bearing numerous purple or 
rose-coloured flowers on long leafy racemes. There are now many 
forms of this species, with different coloured flowers. These 
form strong branching plants, very profuse flowering, and are 
very effective subjects when grown as border plants; they are also 
extremely useful when grown in beds by themselves — whether the 
kinds are kept separate or mixed. The variety Tom Thumb, with 
rose-coloured flowers, grows only ift. high, and is an excellent 
plant for sunny spots in the rockery, or in the front of the 
herbaceous border. C. pulchella growls 2ft. in height, producing 
its flowers in June ; it is easily distinguished from C. elegans by 



222 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



its deeply trilobed petals, those of elegans being entire. The 
typical flower is deep rose-coloured, but plants now exist with 
flowers varying from pure white to dark purple, some being single, 
others double. All are exceedingly showy, and should be grouped 
in mixed borders where their bright colours will be highly appre- 
ciated. As cut flowers, they are also in great demand. 

CoLLiNSiA. — C. bicolor (Fig. 117) is a pretty, profuse-flowering 
plant, I ft. high, the upper lip of the corolla being white, whilst 
the lower lip is of a purplish colour. It will stand smoke well, 
and consequently is very useful for growing in the neighbour- 
hood of large towns. The 
seed may be sown in autumn, 
and the plants protected 
slightly during severe weather 
in winter, when they will 
flower freely in ^lay. If 
sown in March and April 
they will flower in about 
three months from the time of • 
sowing. A white variety is 
also in cultivation under the 
name of alba or ca?ididissima. 
C. ver?ia, a species growing 
I ft. high, and flowering early 
in May, has white flowers, 
with the lower lip of 
a beautiful blue colour. 
Although this plant is so 
handsome, it is seldom seen 
in gardens, and very rarely 
met with in nurservmen's 
catalogues. It ought to be 
a plant very widely grown, 
seeing that it produces its 
flowers at a time when 
annuals are rather scarce. 
The length of time the 
display lasts — from six to eight weeks — ought also to recom- 
mend it as a plant worthy of a place in every garden. 
The seed must be sown in August or early in September " 
in pans of light soil, and the seedlings^, when large enough 
to be handled, should be pricked off into other pans or 
boxes, and kept cool and damp in a light airy position, so as 
not to force the growth, afterwards transferring to the open 
border in time to establish themselves before winter sets in. 
When treated in this manner they very often flower in April. 
Altogether there are upwards of a dozen species of Collinsia, 
including C. corymbosa, with the upper lip of a greyish-blue, 




-ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



223 



whilst the lower one is white. These are suitable for growing 
in large patches, sowing the seed in March, and thinning the 
seedlings to a distance of 3in. 

CoLLOMiA cocciNEA is a showv border plant, varying in 
height from i2in. to i8in., and producing its bright scarlet 
flowers during June, July, and August. It is a useful bee- 
plant, and in light warm soils it sows itself every year, the 
plants so obtained being quite equal to the cultivated ones. 

Convolvulus tricolor (C. minor) (Dwarf Garden Con- 
volvulus) is a well-known plant, ift. high, bearing numerous 
large richly-coloured flowers, which are white, with a blue limb 
and a yellowish throat. There are several varieties with white, 
rose, crimson, and blue flowers ; 
these are fine bedding plants 
and are also useful when grown 
in clumps in the border. They 
require a good warm soil, and 
should be kept in a medium 
moist condition. 

Coreopsis is a genus con- 
taining several annuals which 
are largely grown for summer 
decoration, under the name of 
Calliopsis ; they are very grace- 
ful border plants, supplying, 
during summer an abundance 
of elegant showy flowers, which 
are greatly appreciated for vases 
and bouquets. They thrive 
almost anywhere, even in town 
gardens; and the bright colours 
of their flowers render them 
objects of remarkable beauty 
and general garden favourites. 
Coreopsis Drummoiidi (Fig. 118) is a lovely plant for beds 
and borders ; it has golden-yellow^ flow^ers, with a rich crimson- 
brown ring surroundmg the eye ; it is a much-branched species, 
growdng iSin. in height, and flowering in July. Coreopsis 
tinctoria, also known as C. bicolor, is a slender annual, growing 
to a height of 2ft., and opening its flow^ers in June ; they 
are yellow, wdth a crimson-browm blotch in the centre. Several 
varieties, difl'ering in the colour of their flowers, are now^ 
grown, the best of which is undoubtedly na?ia. It is very 
eflective for bedding purposes, lasting for a long time in 
blossom. The folio \ving also deserve a place in the gar- 
den : coronata, a good border plant, iSin. high, with a rich 
yellow centre, spotted with brownish-crimson, flowers in July ; 




224 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Engehnanni^ with bright yellow flowers, elegant in flower and 
foliage, I ft. high. 

DiANTHUS. — -Here, again, we have a genus containing several 
hardy annuals which are amongst the most decorative of border 
plants, their brilliant colours rendering them indispensable for 
summer bedding and also for cut-flower purposes. D. chinensis^ 
(Chinese Pink) is a plant which has given rise to numerous 
single and double varieties, and although classed as an annual, 
it will live for two or three years if the winters are mild. The 
seed should be sown in February in a cool house, pricking off 

the seedlings when 
large enough into 
boxes, and transplant- 
ing to the open border 
in April. The plants 
will commence flower- 
ing about July, and 
will keep on until late 
in the autumn ; they 
grow to a height of 
I ft., and bear red 
flowers. The various 
forms are usually 
classed under two 
heads, viz. : 

The Heddeivigii sec- 
tion, containing Crim- 
son Belle, with large 
handsome flowers of a 
beautiful blood-crimson 
colour ; height ift. 
Eastern Queen, with 
large flowers, marbled 
rose and white ; height 
I ft. Heddeivigii {diade- 
mains) fiore-pleno (Fig, 
119), a Japanese variety 
of dwarf and compact habit, with large, very double flowers.. 
Mixed seed of this section may also be procured. 

The lacijiiatus section comprises Salmon Queen, a new and 
fine addition to the annual Pinks, with large, single, beautifully- 
fringed flowers of a soft salmon colour; height ift. Snowflake, 
with single fringed flowers, varying from pure white to blush ; 
height ift. Midnight, with deep rich maroon double flowers, 
shaded with black. Choice mixed seed mav also be obtained of 
the laciniatus section, from which a batch of plants may be raised, 
producing flowers of rich and varied colours, with fringed petals. 
Seeds of the single and double forms may be obtained separately. 




Fig. 119. — DiANTHUS chinensis 
Heddewigii flore-pleno. 



ON ANNUALS AND 



BIENNIALS. 



225 



Erysimums are effective border plants, succeeding well in any 
ordinary garden soil. Erysimum arkansanum (Western Wall- 
flower) has fine, showy, clear sulphur-coloured flowers, much 
resembling those of the common Wallflower ; it grows from 
i2in. to i8in. high. E. Perofskianum has dense racemes of 
brilliant orange-coloured flowers, and is a desirable plant for 
beds, borders, rockwork, edgings, &c. ; ift. high. For spring 
decoration, the seed should be sown in September ; whilst for 
summer display it is best sown in March or April. 

EucHARiDiUMS are free-flowering annuals of the Evening 
Primrose family, and somewhat resemble the Clarkias in 
appearance. If sown out-of-doors in the autumn they are a 
lovely sight in early summer. The spring-sown seed will come 
into flower in about eight weeks from the time of sowing, and 
remain in flower for a long time. E. Breiveri has light rose- 
coloured fragrant flowers, is early and of elegant form, and 
grows only 6in. high. E. concin7ium has lilac-purple flowers on 
long stalks. The plant known as grandifloriim is merely a 
variety of E. concinnum with larger flowers ; a white variety 
is also in cultivation. 

EuTOCA visciDA (also known as Pliacelia viscida) is a lovely 
little plant, ift. high, with intense blue flowers; it is free- 
flowering, very effective in beds and borders, as well as a good 
bee-plant. 

Gaillardia. — G. amblyodon grows 2ft. in height, and bears 
flower-heads of a deep red colour. G. pulchella has flower- 
heads rather larger than the last-mentioned, the ray-florets 
being of a crimson hue and tipped with bright yellow ; flowers 
in autumn. There are now several forms in cultivation, 
amongst which are : Lorenziana, with large handsome heads, the 
florets developing into tubular, funnel-shaped structures, in rich 
shades of red and yellow ; height i^ft. There is a form of 
Lorenziana with double flowers of a beautiful golden shade. 
Drummondi or pida, with large red and yellow flowers, and 
somewhat succulent leaves ; height i^ft. Drummondi coccinea, 
with blood-red flowers having a golden margin; height ift. 

Mixed seed of the foregoing and other forms may be obtained 
from the nurserymen. Some people make a practice of putting 
in cuttings of such kinds as pulchella and Drummondi in autumn, 
either inside or under hand-hghts, and the plants thus obtained 
are far superior to those raised from seed. In some catalogues 
they are classed as biennials, but as they will flower the same 
year as sown, they have a just claim to the title of annuals. 
Whether known as annuals or biennials, they certainly take a 
prominent place amongst our summer bedding-plants on account 
of their rich and brilliant-coloured flowers, the long duration of 
the flowering period, and also for the value of the flowers for 

Q 



226 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



bouquets and vases. Large masses in the border or small beds 
of these annual kinds are very effective. 

GiLiAS are gay little plants, profusely covered with flowers of 
various shades of colour ; they are very attractive when grown 
in masses in the border, and the cut flowers are useful for vase 
work — -lasting a long time in water ; they are also valuable bee- 
plants. For spring flowering the seed should be sown in autumn, 
whilst for summer and autumn flowering, the best time to sow is 
towards the end of March or beginning of April ; they 
require a rather light rich soil. G. achillecEfolia (Milfoil- 
leaved Gilia) has purplish-blue flowers, several together on long 
peduncles; it grows from ift. to i^ft. high, and flowers in August; 

there is also a form with white 
and another with red flowers, 
both of them very good. G. 
a?id rosacea (Fig. 120) has lilac, 
pink, or nearly white flowers, with 
dark yellow throats ; it grows from 
gin. to i2in., and flowers during 
August ; it is also known as Lepto- 
sipJion ajidrosaceiis^ under which 
name it is generally described in 
catalogues. G. capitata bears 
blue sessile flowers in dense 
heads in July; i8in. to 2ft. high. 
G. de?isiflora {^Leptosipho7i densi- 
fio7'us) has soft lilac-coloured 
flowers ; this and the white 
variety grow ift. high, and are 
plants of chaste beauty, in both 
flower and foliage ; flowers in 
June. G. dianthoides^ a showy 
little plant, 3in. or 4in. high, 
Fig. 120.— Gilia androsacea. with lilac flowers ; flowers in July. 

G. laciniata has deep lavender-blue 
flowers, borne in July; only 6in. high; makes a fine bedding 
plant ; also useful for rockwork and edgings. G. micrantha 
I^Leptosiphon roseus) produces an abundance of brilliant rose- 
coloured flowers, with slender tubes an inch long ; height Qin. ; 
flowers in July; the plant is covered with numerous long, 
weak hairs. G. micra?itha aiirea {Leptosiphon aureus) is a good 
form, with bright golden-yellow , flowers. G. ?iivalis (Snow Queen) 
is a' lovely little plant, Sin. high, bearing snowy-white flowers 
with golden centres. G. tricolor is a favourite spring- and 
summer-flowering annual ; the typical form has a yellow flower 
with a lavender or whitish margin, these colours being separated 
by a deep purple ring; it grows from gin. to i2in. high. There 
are several pretty forms including alba, with pure white flowers. 




ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



227 



and riibra violacea^ having rose-purple flowers, with a central 
maroon ring. Mixed seed can also be obtained, producing 
plants of various shades — lavender, blue, white, orange, &c. 

. GoDETiAS are amongst the most beautiful of hardy annuals for 
bedding purposes ; they are of easy culture, and form sturdy 
little bushes covered with large and handsome flowers of brilliant 
and delicate shades ; the cut flowers last long in water. They 
are now classed under CEjwt/iera by several authorities. 
jMany useful garden hybrids are described under Godetia in 
catalogues, viz. : The Bride, i^ft. high, of light, elegant habit, 
with a long spike of flowers, white, blotched with crimson. 
Duchess of Albany, ift. high, with pure white flowers, produced 
in pyramidal clusters. Duke of York, ift. high, having rich 
crimson flowers, with a large white centre ; Princess of Wales, ift. 
high, a rather old yet good variety, with rosy-crimson flowers. 
Princess Henry, ift. high, with satiny blush flowers ; each petal 
blotched with crimson. Lady Albemarle, ift. high, with deep 
crimson flowers ; very showy. Whitneyi, blush-coloured, spotted 
with crimson. Marchioness of Salisbury, ift. high; one of the 
most attractive, bearing a profusion of large bright crimson 
flowers, with a broad white margin ; a very efl"ective bedding 
plant. Gloriosa, ift. high ; the darkest-coloured Godetia, with 
deep blood-red flowers ; a handsome plant of compact habit ; 
useful for bedding. 

Gypsophila elegans 
is a graceful plant of 
light, fairy-like growth, 
covered with small lilac 
flowers ; it grows about 
I Sin. high, and is much 
in demand for cutting. 
G. 77mralis, 6in. high, 
is a lovely little plant 
with rose-pink flowers ; 
it is useful in the 
rockery or as an 
edging plant. 

Helianthus (the 
Sunflower genus) con- 
tains several hardy 
annuals of majestic 
growth, producing large 
showy flowers. These Fig. 121. — Helianthus annuus globosus 
are suitable for wild fistulosus. 
and sub-tropical gar- 
dening ; the dwarfer kinds, with smaller flowers, are useful for 
grouping in mixed flower borders. HeliantJius a7i?iuus (common 

Q 2 




228 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Sunflower) grows 6ft. high, and produces its large yellowish 
flowers in July. The seed should be sown in a slight hot-bed 
or in pots in February, transplanting into the open ground when 
large enough ; it may also be sown outside in March. It likes 
a strong, rich soil, with a quantity of old cow-manure added, and 
in this compost it will often produce flowers a foot across. 
There are numerous varieties now in cultivation, one of the best 
being H. a. globosus fistulosus (Fig. 121), with large handsome double 
yellow flowers, which, when fully developed, assume a globular 



leaves are thin and bright green. The form known as Stella 
is new ; it bears an abundance of golden-yellow dark-centred 
flowers, about 4in. across, the petals of which are elegantly 
twisted. Henry Wilde is a distinct variety, bearing branching 
heads of single flowers, 5in. across, golden-yellow, with dark 
centres ; height 6ft. H. a. californims has heads of large 
handsome double flowers of a rich yellow; it is more robust 
in habit than the typical H. anmius, and the flo\vers are darker 
coloured. The form of this known as plenissimus is one of the 
best of the annual Sunflowers, and ought to find a place in 
every mixed border of any pretensions. 




form. Helia?i.thiis argo- 
phylhis (Fig. 122) is a 
charming plant for mixed 
borders, wild gardens, »S:c. ; 
the whole plant is covered 
with a soft, silky, silvery 
down : the flowers are 
medium-sized, yellow with 
a dark centre, the ray 
florets being very broad. 
It grows to a height of 
5ft., and flowers in au- 
tumn. There is really 
not much difference be- 
tween this and H. annuus. 
H. cucuinerifolhis (Minia- 
ture-flowered Sunflower) 
produces an abundance 
of small rich yellow 



Fig. 122. — Heli.inthus argophyllus. 




flowers, set off with 
a brownish - black 
centre ; about 3in. 
across ; the plant 
grows about 3ft. 
high, and the stem is 
much branched and 
often marked with 
purplish spots : the 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



229 



Helichrysums (Everlastings) are splendid border plants, 
producing an abundance of flowers, which are very valuable 
for the winter decoration of vases. They should be sown inside 
during the autumn, and planted out in April, or else sown very 
early in the year (about February) under glass, and planted 
out during favourable weather in April, so that they may 
have a chance of making plenty of flowers before the autumn 
frosts cut them down. They are sometimes sown rather late in 
the open border, and are conse- 
quently just approaching their best 
when they are spoiled by the early 
frosts in the autumn. H. bracteatn^Ji 
(Fig. 123) is the one generally grown. 
It reaches a height of 3ft., and 
produces its pale yellowish flowers 
in August and September. The 
\'ariety compositiiui is a grand double 
form, with various coloured flower- 
heads. There are now numerous 
forms of H. bracteatuni in cultivation, 
the following being amongst the best : 
Golden King, with large golden- 
yellow flowers, having orange centres ; 
2ft. high. Silver Queen ; this has 
large handsome snowy-white flowers, 
with centre of orange. Fireball has 
double fiery crimson flowers ; grows 
i5in. high. Mixed seed can also be 
obtained producing plants of various 
colours, viz., white, yellow, orange- 
scarlet, dark maroon, salmon, purple- 
rose, &c. 

HiERACIUM AURANTIACUM (Hawk- 

weed) is a common plant, succeeding 
in any soil, and growing from i2in. 
to I Sin. high, producing eight to ten 
flowers in each corymb. It begins 
to flower about June, and keeps up a Fig. , 123.— Helichrysum 
continuous display for several weeks. j ^ bracteatum. 

For naturalising in the wild garden 

it is well adapted, and when grown in a large batch proves 
very effective. There are now several forms of it — one with 
bright rose-coloured semi-double flowers, another with pure white 
semi-double flowers, and another with light yellow single flowers 
with a crimson-brown centre, all of them about ift. in height. 

Hu:\iULUS jAPONicus (Japanese Hop) is a quick-growing twiner, 
12ft. high, and bears yellowish flowers in July. It is very 




THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



suitable for covering trellises, &:c., or for hiding unsightly 
objects. There is a variegated form, with cream, silver, and 
green foliage. 

Hymenoxys californica, also known as Shortia californica, 
has a tufted habit. It grows 6in. high, and produces sheets of 
Daisy-like, bright-yellow flowers, with rich golden centres. An 
autumn sowing in light dry soil will produce a brilliant dis- 
play in spring, whilst a batch of spring-sown plants are charming 
during the summer. 

lONOPSiDiUM ACAULE (Violct Crcss) is a lovely miniature annual, 
2in. high, and forming dense tufts of foliage, literally smothered 
with tiny pale lilac flowers. It is very neat in habit, and thrives 
best in damp or shady situations, such as the foot of rockwork, 
on old shady walls, &c. ; for sowing near rugged steps it is 
particularly suitable. It flowers in eight or nine weeks from the 
time of sowing, and very often reproduces itself year after year 
by self-sowing. 

Kaulfussia amelloides is a compact annual, suitable for 
edgings, fronts of borders, rockwork, &:c. ; it also forms a 
"carpet" plant for beds of taller subjects. It grows about 
6in. high, and produces its pretty Aster-like flowers in June. In 
the typical plant they are of a soft azure-blue tint, but in the 
varieties they differ in colour, some being white, others rose, 
scarlet, and violet. Although this plant goes under the name of 
Kaulfussia amelloides in nurserymen's catalogues, its proper name 
is Charieis heterophylla, Kaulfussia being a genus of Ferns. 

Larkspurs (Delphiniums). — The annual Larkspurs are attrac- 
tive summer bedding-plants, producing a wealth of beauty in 
their bright-coloured flowers ; they are very effective in borders, 
and when planted amongst shrubs, their flowers of various shades 
of white, rose, blue, and purple show off to advantage. They 
vary much in habit, some being from 3ft. to 4ft. high, whilst 
others do not exeed ift. in height ; the flowers last for a long 
time, and are much valued for vase-work. 

The seed should be sown in ]March or April, in the positions 
where the plants are intended to remain, and the seedlings 
thinned out to 4in. or 5in. apart. The branching kinds are 
often sown in the autumn in a light border, and transplanted 
into their flowering quarters about March, taking care to lift 
with as good balls as possible. Slugs seem very fond of Lark- 
spurs, and consequently a constant look-out must be kept for 
them ; this is especially needful in the case of the autumn-sown 
seedlings, or they will all disappear before spring. These annual 
Delphiniums are divided into several groups ; for instance, we 
have the Ranunculus-flowered, the Hyacinth-flowered, the Stock- 
flowered, and the branching-stemmed kind. The Ranunculus- 
and Stock-flowered may be obtained in mixed double varieties, 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



231 



growing only ift. high; the double Stock-flowered, mixed, 2ft. 
high ; the dwarf Hyacinth-flowered — the very compact growth 
of which renders it the best adapted for summer bedding — may 
also be obtained in various colours. In this latter group the 
flowers are set on a more tapering spike, and are farther apart 
than in the Ranunculus- and Stock-flowered. 

The branching-stemmed kinds may be obtained in colours of 
white, carmine, deep blue, &:c., the plants growing to a height 
of 2ft. or 2^ft. They have originated from D. consoiidian, a 
species with branching stems and deep blue flowers. It is a 
native of Britain, growing i^ft. to 2fi;. high, and producing its 
flowers from April onwards throughout the summer. There is a 
form of this, known as candelabrum^ which bears pyramidal 
spikes of variously-coloured flowers, and is especially worthy of 
extended cultivation. 

The Common Larkspur (^Delphinium Ajacis) is one of the 
species which is responsible for the large number of beautiful 
forms now in cultivation. It has showy blue flowers, 
sometimes red or white, borne in long, loose racemes. It is an 
erect, hairy annual, growing from ift. to i^ft. high, and pro- 
ducing its flowers about June. 

Lasthenia californica, a small form of L. glabrata, is a 
composite plant, and valuable for beds, borders, (S:c., when grown 
in broad tufts. If sown in September and October, it produces 
a sheet of rich deep golden flowers in spring, just when the 
Candytufts and early Phloxes are at their best ; whilst if sown 
in April, it is very effective in June and July. It grows from 
gin. to i8in. high. 

Lathyrus odoratus (Sweet Pea) is a hardy annual climber, 
growing to the height of 5ft. or 6ft., and is such a universal 
favourite that its merits scarcely need description. It is certainly 
one of the very best of our hardy annuals, and whether grown 
as a floral screen to shut out unsightly objects, as an ornamental 
plant in the mixed border, or as a source for yielding cut flowers, 
its position is simply invaluable. Many people grow a hedge of 
Sweet Peas entirely for this latter purpose, and, at the same 
time, the hedge forms a very attractive object in the garden. 
A common practice is that of sowing small patches of seed of 
mixed varieties towards the back of the herbaceous border, and 
placing tall, stout bushy stakes around them, so that the Peas 
may climb up, and in this way form objects of great beauty. 
When they reach the top of the supports, the points of the 
stems should be pinched out. 

The best time for sowing is in the early spring — March or 
beginning of April — in soil which has been deeply dug and 
plentifully manured. Some gardeners make another sowing 
about the end of May for late autumn work, but this is 



232 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



unnecessary, as when the earlier sown batches get overgrown and 
untidy, all that is required is to cut the long growths off with 
the hedge-shears, and in the course of a few days, new growths, 
bearing an abundance of flower, will be produced. During hot, 
dry weather they must not be allowed to suffer from want of 
water, and at this time, occasional applications of weak liquid 
manure will prove advantageous. 

Varieties of the Sweet Pea are now innumerable, and may 
be obtained either separately or in mixed colours varying from 
pure white, as in Emily Henderson, to dark maroon, shaded with 

black, as in Stanley. Captain of 
the Blues produces large handsome 
flowers, and is said to be the finest 
Blue in existence. Cupid is a very 
dwarf variety of Sweet Pea, growing 
only about 5in. in height ; it is a 
wonderfully free blossomer, bearing 
large waxy pure white flowers. There 
are several other species of Lathyi'us 
that are annual, and although none 
of them rival the Sweet Pea in point 
of beauty, some of them form verv 
pretty border plants, such for instance 
as L. tingitajiiis^ with red and purple 
flowers, growing 3ft. high, and flower- 
ing in June and July. 

Lavatera tri:mestris (Fig. 124) 
is an annual, growing from 2ft. to 
3ft. high, producing an abundance 
of laro-e rose-coloured flowers in 
June. It thrives well in a rich, 
lisfht soil. The seed may be sown 
in the open border either in the 
autumn or in early spring. It is 
a valuable subject for large borders, 
and for planting in wild gardens, (Sic. 
There is also a variety known as 
alba^ with beautiful snow3'-white flowers. 

Lavia elegans is a composite annual, growing ift. high, and 
flowering from ]May to August : it has yellow flowers, bordered 
with white. Z. glaiididosa has beautiful pure white flowers, and 
forms a profuse-flowering plant for beds and borders, remaining 
for a long time in blossom. 

Leptosiphox. — The plants usually found under this name are 
dealt with under " Gilias.'"' 

Limnaxthes Douglasi is a dwarf annual, o;rowin2; from 6in. 
to 8in. high, and producing yellow flowers shaded to white, and 




Fig. 124. — Lavatera 
trimestris. 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



very s^Yeet-scented. It is of a spreading, prostrate habit, and 
proves of great value for spring and sumnner decoration on 
banks and rockwork, and as an edging in borders. Being 
extremely hardy, it is suitable for autumn sowing, and may thus 
be had in flower very early in spring; if required for summer- 
blossoming, the best time to sow is in March. This is a plant 
that should be sown by all bee-keepers, as bees are very fond 
of the flowers. A white variety is also in cultivation. 

LiNARiA. — This genus yields several pretty annuals — charming 
free-flowering plants, useful for beds and borders, the flowers 
being much prized for bouquets and vases. L. bipartita has 
violet-purple flowers, resembling those of a Snapdragon ; it grows 
from 6in. to i2in. high, and flowers from June to September. 
The variety alba has snow-white flowers, with a golden blotch. 
Z. maritiina has pale yellow flowers, with an orange palate. 
It is of the same height as the last-mentioned species, and 
proves to be an exceed mgly free biossomer. L. reiicidata 
has deep purplish flowers, grows from ilt. to 2ft. high, and 
flowers in June and July. The variety aureo-purpurea has deep 
purplish flowers, with a golden blotch ; it is a very striking plant, 
growing about ift. high. L. tristis is a charming plant, growing 
about gin. high, and flowering in July ; it has yellow flowers, 
blotched with crimson, and forms a suitable subject for edging, 
bedding, or for rockwork. 

LiNUM GRANDiFLORUM (Red Flax) is a useful annual, growing 
I ft. in height, and producing its crimson flowers in June and 
July. The seed may either be sown in February or ]March 
under glass, and the seedlings transferred to the open border as 
soon as large enough ; or it may be sown in April in the position 
where the plants are intended to flower. L. graiidiflorum 
co(ci7ieuin {riibi-iitji) is one of the most brilliantly coloured of 
summer annuals, producing flowers of a glowing crimson hue. 
It may be had in flower from May to October by successive 
sowings, and as it is very free-flowering it forms an exceedingly 
ornamental plant for beds and borders. 

Lupin us (Lupin) is a genus containing several handsome 
annual species, and from which have sprung innumerable 
beautiful hybrids. They are all graceful plants, the elegant 
racemes being much prized for cutting. The dwarf varieties 
form capital beds by themselves, whilst the taller-growing ones 
are effective in mixed borders. Z. Ha7'twegii has blue and 
pink flowers ; it grows from i^ft. to 2ft. high, and flowers 
in July. Z. hiteus is the well-known dwarf yellow Lupin ; 
it grows ift. high, and produces its fragrant flowers in July 
and August. Z. Meiiziesii is a handsome bushy plant, covered 
with racemes of showy bright yellow flowers, and grows i^ft. high. 
Z. hybridiis atro-coccijiei(s is one of the best, growing 2^ft. 



234 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



high, and producing elegant racemes of crimson-rose-coloured 
flowers, tipped with white. Z. nanus (common Dwarf Lupin) 
is a lovely plant for beds and the fronts of borders ; it grows 
only I ft. high, and produces its lilac and blue flowers in July. 
The variety albiis has pure white flowers. Z. siibcar?iosus has 
handsome deep blue flowers, with white eyes ; it grows ift. 
high, and is much prized for cutting. Z. Criiikshankii is an 
erect-branched annual, growing 3ft., and bearing blue, white, and 
pink flowers during July and August. It is a splendid border 
plant, and goes by the name of Mutabilis versicolor in some- 
nurserymen's catalogues. 

Malope trifida grandiflora is a showy plant tor large 
mixed flower-borders and for shrubberies. It grows to a height 

of 2ft., and bears dark 
glossy rose-crimson flowers 
in June and July. There 
are two varieties : alba, 
with pure white flowers, 
and rosea, with flowers of 
a pretty blush shade. 

Mathiola bicornis 
(Night-Scented Stock) has 
lilac flowers, which in the 
morning and evening, and 
also after a shower of 
rain, emit a delightful 
fragrance perceptible at a 
considerable distance. It 
grows I ft. high, and 
flowers in spring. 

Mignonette {Reseda 
odor at a) is a universal 
favourite, being grown in 
almost every garden, how- 
ever small. It grows 
about I ft. high, and may 
be had in flower outdoors 
from May to October. 
Fig. 125. — Nemophila insignis. The flowers are yellowish- 

white in colour, with saf- 
fron anthers. The seed may be sown in the borders in April 
and May for flowering in June and July ; another sowing might 
be made in June for flowering in late autumn. It is always 
advisable to thin the seedlings early to a suitable distance apart, 
as they then grow much stronger, and flower much freer than if 
left crowded. The plants like a rich, moderately-heavy soil, and 
especially delight in a cool, moist situation ; but seed might 




ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 235 

with advantage be sown on dry banks, the margins of gravel- 
paths, and in any dry, sunny situations, as although the plants 
do not grow so freely, the fragrance of the flowers is more 
powerful. They are suitable for either border or pot-culture, 
and the flowers are much prized for cutting, as they emit such 
a delightful perfume, and last so long in water. Numerous 
varieties are now offered by the trade. 

Nemophilas are charming little annuals, very uniform in 
height, comprising colours of strong contrast ; they are of the 
easiest culture in any ordinary garden soil, and are very useful 
for the adornment of rockeries, small beds, or. for ribbon borders 
and edgings. Some pretty combinations may be produced by 
arranging masses of them in harmonising colours. For a spring 
display seed should be sown early in August, preferably where 
the plants are intended to flower, and for summer-flowering the 
best time to sow is in April. Nemophila insignis (Fig. 125) has 
bright blue flowers with white eyes ; it grows to a height of 
I Sin. Several fine varieties have originated from it, viz., graiidi- 
flora, with large clear light blue flowers having white centres, 
more than an inch across ; it grows only 9in. high, and for 
beds, borders, and ribbons is very effective. A^ insignis alba 
has pure white flowers, and forms a charming companion to 
grandiflora. N. i. niarginata has blue flowers with a white 
edge. JV. 77iaculata is a species growing 6in. high, and is to be 
seen at its best about June. It is a hairy plant, and bears large 
handsome white flowers, with a violet blotch on each lobe of 
the corolla. N. atomaria {Menziesii) has white flowers with 
purple spots. 

NiGELLAS are graceful border 
plants, with Larkspur-like foliage, the 
flowers being partially hidden by the 
curious fine feathery green bracts. 
The seed should be sown towards 
the end of March or in April, in 
light warm soil in the open border, 
and the seedlings thinned out to 6in. 
apart. jV. daniascena (Love-in-a-Mist) 
is the one most generally grown ; it 
has bright-green finely-cut foliage, and 
bears large white or blue flowers sur- 
rounded by mossy bracts. It attains 
a height of from i2in. to i8in., and 
flowers in July. The double-flowered 
variety, flore-pleno (Fig. 126), is very good. N. hispanica (Devil- 
in-a-Bush) has showy blue flowers, with blood-coloured stamens ; 
the varieties alba and atropurpuna, with white and purple-violet 
flowers respectively, are worth growing. 




Fig. 126. — NiGELLA dama- 

SCEXA FLORE-PLExb. 



236 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



NoLANAS are trailing plants with Convolvulus-like flowers, 
suitable for rockeries or mixed borders. jV. atriplicifolia has 
blue, white, or yellow flowers ; it grows 6in. high, and flowers 
in July. The seed should be sown in the open border in April, 
and the plants well thinned out. 

Papaver (the Poppy genus) contains several annual species 
which are valuable decorative border plants ; the flowers are 
produced in great abundance, and are much prized for vase- 
work. The seed should be sown in ]\[arch or April, where the 
plants are intended to flower. Papaver Hookei-i is an orna- 
mental bushy plant, 3ft. to 4ft. high, 
flowering in autumn. The flowers 
vary in colour from pale rose to crim- 
son, each petal having a white or 
black spot at the base. P. Rho^as 
(common Corn Poppy) has scarlet 
flowers, which are produced in June. 
It grows about ift. in height. Under 
cultivation it has produced many 
varieties with both single and double 
flowers, amongst which is flore-pleno 
(Fig. 127), with double flowers. The 
following garden strains have also 
originated from this species, viz. : 
the Shirley Poppy, the Carnation- 
flowered, and the Ranunculus- 
flowered. Shirley Poppies, an ex- 
ceedingly popular race of single 
Poppies, raised during recent years 
by the Rev. Wilks, are all grace- 
ful plants, yielding flowers of various 
colours, embracing delicate shades of 
rose, pink, and blush. By sowing 
in spring and early summer for suc- 
cession, they may be had in flower 
from j\Iay to October. The seed is 
very fine, and should, on this account, 
be sown quite thinly, and merely 
sprinkled over with a little finely-sifted soil, afterwards thinning 
out to 6in. apart. They grow about ift. in height. Carnation- 
flowered, with large handsome double-fringed flowers, of various 
brilliant colours ; grows about 2^ft. in height. Ranunculus- 
flowered, or French Poppies, have fine double flowers, with 
thin petals; flowers of various colours; height ift. Papaver 
setigeru7n is a species with white or violet-coloured flowers, 
growing from ift. to 2ft. high, and flowering in July. It is 
very like the Opium Poppy, but difl'ers in having the teeth 
of the leaves ending in stiff bristles, and in the stem, as 




Fig. 127. — Papaver Rhceas 
flore-plexo. 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



well as the leaves being hairy. P. sonuiiferitm is the Opium 
Poppy, and produces in July variously coloured flowers from 
white to crimson ; it grows from 2^ft. to 4ft. in height, and has 
given rise to a number of garden forms, of which the Pseony 
flowered is very distinct, with double Paeony-like flowers, 
having broad petals, varying in colour from white to crimson. 
Danebrog (Victoria Cross Poppy, Fig. 128) grows from ift. to 2ft. 
high, and has scarlet flowers with a white spot at the base of 
each of the petals. Murselli (Mikado Poppy) is another strain 
of F. somnifernui, growing 2ft. high, and producing flowers in 
white and scarlet. Seed 
of these poppies may be 
obtained in either named 
or mixed varieties ; they 
ought to be grown largely 
in shrubberies, wfld gar- 
dens, and woodlands, and 
for distant efl'ect gene- 
rally. 

Phacelias are showy 
little plants wiih. white, 
blue, or violet flowers ; 
they are of easy culture 
in any ordinary garden 
soil. F. congesta is one 
of the best, growing 
from 9in. to i8in. high, 
and producing numerous 
blue flowers in dense 
heads during June. P. 
tanacetifolia has bluish- 
pink flowers ; it grows to a height of 2ft., and flowers in June. 

Platystemon californicum (Californian Poppy) is a beautiful 
plant on rockwork and in flower-borders, and is quite easily grown 
in any ordinary garden soil; it grows ift. high, and bears numerous 
pale cream-coloured flowers during summer. It may be sown 
in either spring or autumn. 

Sanvitalia procumbexs is a free-flowering, trailing plant, very 
effective for sm.all beds, edgings, and for rockwork. It grows 
only 6in. high, and yields its miniature Sunflower-like blossoms in 
July. The ray-florets are of a rich yellow colour, whilst those 
of the disk are brown. The double-flowered variety, flore-pleno, 
is by far the showiest, and has rich golden-yellow flowers re- 
sembling those of a small Ranunculus. 

Saponarias (Soapworts) are dwarf hardy annuals, (Sic, of 
the Pink family, very useful for beds and edgings in summer, 
and when sown in autumn are valuable for spring gardening. 




\ 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



S. calabrica has pink star-shaped flowers ; it grows 6in. high, 
and flowers in August. There is also a variety, alba^ with pure 
white flowers. 

ScABiosA (Scabious) is a genus containing several annuals which 
produce a fine eff'ect in beds and borders, whilst the handsome 
heads of flowers are much prized for vases and bouquets. If 
sown in P'ebruary under glass and again in March or April in 
the open border, the plants will flower the same year ; it is, 
however, often treated as a biennial by sowing in ]\Iay or June, 
for flowering early the following summer. S. atropurpiirea has 
deep crimson flower-heads, and is sweetly scented. It grows 
from 2ft. to 3ft. high, and flowers in July and August. There 
are numerous varieties, some with double, and others with single 
flowers in various shades of crimson, purple, and yellow. 
Then there are forms with distinctly margined foliage as well 
as those with flowers both margined and sheathed. 6". ati-o- 
piu'purea^ as well as being grown extensively for the embellish- 
ment of the outdoor flower garden, is also sometimes cultivated 
in pots for flowering in winter. For this purpose seed 
should be sown during early summer, and the young plants 
potted off singly when large enough, and housed in a cool 
frame. 

SiLENES (Catchflies) are free-flowering annuals, suitable for 
growing in beds, borders, or on rockwork ; for spring gardening 
they are of great value. If required for spring gardening the seed 
should be sown early in autumn, and for general summer decoration, 
March or April is the best time to sow. 6'. pendula is a species 
growing ift. high and producing an abundance of bright rose- 
coloured flowers ; the variety compacta is one of the best and most 
useful of the annual Silenes, forming tufts not more than 6in. high, 
smothered with numerous bright pink flowers ; a white variety is 
also in cultivation. 

Sphenogyne speciosa, now known as Ursinia pidchra, is a 
showy annual of dwarf, spreading habit, with rich golden-yellow 
Marguerite-like flowers. It grows from 6in. to ift. high, and forms 
a charming plant for beds and borders, and is also useful for 
cutting. 

Venus' Looking Glass {Specularia Speaihiiii) is a pretty 
free-flowering annual, suitable for beds or for rockwork. It 
grows ift. high, and in July is covered with bright purple 
bell-shaped flowers, somewhat resembling those of a Campanula. 
It is one of the showiest of our hardy annuals. There is also 
a white variety in cultivation. 

Veronica syriaca is a dwarf hardy species, growing 6in. 
high, and bearing bright blue flowers. It is best sown in 
autumn for spring flowering. The variety alba is also 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



useful for the same purpose, the plants being literally covered 



^vith flowers in the sprino- 



Virginian Stocks. — Malcolmia maritima 
flowering annual^ easy of culture in any 
If sown in April, it will flower in June, 
sowings it may be had in flower from then until September. It 
grows from 6in. to i2in. high, and has lilac, rose, red, and 
white flowers. 



is a well-known free- 
ordinary garden soil, 
and by successional 



ViscARiA (now in- 
cluded under Lychnis) 
is a genus which 
yields several beauti- 
ful plants suitable for 
small beds or for 
masses in the border. 
In nurserymen's cata- 
logues they are de- 
scribed as hardy 
annuals, whilst some 
authorities prefer to 
class them as peren- 
nials. Seed may be 
sown in autumn 
for spring flower- 
ing, and again 
in spring for 
summer display. 
V. cardinalis has 
brilliant magenta 
flowers, and grows ift. 
in height. V. oailata 
has bright pink flowers, 
with a purple eye. It 
growls from Sin. to 
i2in. high, and flowers 
in July. A form having 
scarlet flowers striped 
with white is known as 
the "Carnation-striped." 
It grows i^ft. high. 




Fig. 



129. — Whitlavia grandiflora 
(Phacelia Whitlavia). 



Whitlavia grandi- 
flora (Fig. 129) is a 
profuse - blossoming 

annual, with pretty Gloxinia-Kke flowers, and is charming in beds 
and borders during spring and summer. It grows ift. high, 
and has numerous violet-purple flowers. The variety alba differs 
only from the type in having pure white flowers. The variety 



240 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



known as gloxinioides has deep lavender-blue flowers, with 
white throats. The species W. grandifiora is now known as 
Phacelia Whitlavia. 

Xeranthemum annuum is one of the prettiest of hardy 
everlasting annuals. It grows to a height of 2ft., and flowers 
in July ; the seed should be sown in April, in a light rich 
soil. Although the typical plant has purple flowers, there 
are now white, yellow, and rich rose-coloured forms ; these 
are not only ornamental as border plants, but the cut flowers 
are also highly valued when dried for the winter decoration of 
vases, &c. 

Half=hardy Annuals. 

These are plants that cannot stand our winters outside, and 
consequently have to be sown in spring. In favoured localities 
as to soil and climate, nearly all this class of plants may be 
sown in light rich soil in the open border when all fear of frost 
is gone, say about the end of April. If wanted in flower early, 
the assistance of glass and a slight bottom-heat is necessary. 
Make up a shght hot-bed frame with fresh stable manure in 
March, and place several inches of light rich soil over ; when 
the heat is on the decline the seed may be sown thinly, and 
the frame kept close and shaded until the seedlings appear. 
As they burst through the soi), they should be gradually 
inured to light and air, so as to avoid a weak, spindly 
growth. If time will permit, it is best to transplant into a 
gentle hotbed for a few weeks before removing to the open 
border ; if not, they ought to be thinned, and attention 
paid to weeding and watering during their stay in the seed- 
bed. 

Raising under Glass. — Another system very often followed 
in raising half-hardy annuals, is to sow the seed in pans, pots, 
or boxes in the greenhouse, always using good rich light soil, 
composed of fine loam and well-decayed leaf-mould, with a fair 
sprinkling of sand added to keep it open. The pans or boxes 
should be well drained, the seeds sown broadcast, and covered 
with the finest soil. It is a recognised rule when sowing seeds 
of this class of plants, or as a matter of fact any seeds under 
glass, that they should not be covered with more than their 
own depth of soil ; for outside sowing, however, they are usually 
covered a little deeper. The soil should then be kept in a 
uniform moist condition : a sheet of glass placed over the pan 
or box will tend to keep it moist by preventing excessive 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



241 



evaporation, and consequently less water will be required. When 
watering is necessary, it should be done with a fine rose, 
and with great care, remembering that a strong flow of water 
will disturb the seed, probably washing it all to one side of the 
pan, if not washing it away altogether. A good plan when 
watering very fine seeds, and also the seedlings when they 
appear, is to stand the pots in water up to their rims, so that the 
water moistens the soil from below : when doing this, care 
must be taken that the water does not flow over the side of the 
pot, or serious consequences will follow. The glass must be 
removed from the pots as soon as the seedlings appear. The 
young seedlings should have plenty of light, but be shaded from 
strong sunlight. As soon as they are strong enough, they should 
be pricked off to give them more room. This may be done into 
pans, boxes, or even into frames, and when they are thus 
established, they may be gradually hardened off, and planted out 
into the open border about the end of May or beginning of June. 

The following is a select list of kinds, and an extended list of 
other desirable varieties will be found in the "Appendix." 

Ageratums are useful bedders, flowering continuously until 
destroyed by frost : the dwarf forms are charming for edgings 
and for small beds. A. mexicafiiim is of free, branching habit, 
growing ift. high : it has lavender-blue flowers. "When grown 
for bedding purposes it may be either pegged down like the 
Verbena or allowed to grow to its full height. Several forms 
of Ageratum have originated under cultivation, amongst which are : 
Imperial Dwarf, 6in. to Qin. high, with porcelain-blue flowers. 
Blue Perfection, gin. high ; a compact variety with dark blue 
flowers. Snowflake, gin. high ; a free-flowering showy variety, 
with pure white flowers. luteiim^ high : a new yellow 

Ageratum, useful for cut flowers. There is also a variety with 
variegated leaves. 

Alonsoa linifolia is a charming little annual, i^ft. high, 
with graceful dark green foliage and bright orange-scarlet flowers. 
A. Warsceiviczii^ i^ft. to 2ft. high, has bright crimson flowers. 
These are the best of the species, and are quite easy to grow, 
either in the borders or in pots. The seed may be sown in 
]\Iarch, and the plants will flower in June and July. 

Amaranthus is a genus containing several effective ornamental 
foliage plants invaluable for bedding purposes. The seed should 
be sown in a hotbed frame in April, and the seedlings trans- 
planted when large enough into another hotbed, finally trans- 
ferring to the open border early in June. A. caudatiis (Love- 
Lies-Bleeding) (Fig. 130), 2ft. to 3ft. high, has dark, pendent 

R 



242 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



racemes of purplish flowers ; it is an effective plant in the 
flower border, and when grown in large vases, its peculiar 
drooping habit shows ofl" to advantage. A creamy-white variety 

is also in cul- 
tivation, and 
although not so 
ornamental as 
the type, it 
forms a nice 
contrast. They 
usually flower 
about August. 
A. hypochondri- 
acus (Prince's 
Feather), 3ft. to 
4ft. high, has 
purple foliage, 
and large dark 
crimson erect 
flower-spikes. It 
flowers in July, 
and forms a 
very ornamental 
border-plant, as well as being useful for pot- 
culture. Auiai-aiithus nielancholiciis ruber ^ ift. 
high, has blood-red foliage and crimson 
flowers ; it is a compact grower, and largely 
used for bedding. A. tricolor (Joseph's Coat), 
ijft. high, is a beautiful ornamental-foliaged 
plant, the leaves being of a glowing crimson 
colour from the base to the middle, the 
upper portion being marked yellow and 
bronzy-green; this species and its varieties 
require a light soil and a rather warm situ- 
ation to be well grown. 

Anagallis (Pimpernel) is a genus con- 
taining several dwarf plants, suitable for 
edgings and rockwork in sunny situations. 
A. indica, ift. high, is a trailing plant, 
producing numerous small deep blue flowers 
in July. A. grandifiora, 6in. high, has 
various coloured flowers — blue, deep red, &:c. 
• — and is seen at its best from May onwards 
until the end of summer ; it is very compact 
and neat in habit. A. Uiiifolia, pin. to i2in. 
high, has large brilliant blue flowers, ^in. across ; flowers in July. 
There are numerous varieties, including Breweri, 6in. high, 
with rich scarlet flowers ; sanguijiea, 6in. high, with beautiful 




Fig. 130. — Amar- 
anth us GAUD AT us. 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



243 



ruby-coloured flowers ; Wihuoreana, 6in. high, with bright purple 
flowers and yellow eyes. 

Asters (China), known botanically by the name of CallistepJms 
chinensis^ form a splendid class of plants, the decorative value 
of which cannot be over-estimated. For grouping in flower 
borders, or for filling beds, they are indispensable, whilst for pot 
culture and cut flowers they are also much prized. To see 
them in their full beauty, however, they require to be grown 
in masses, and when well cultivated, they produce an abund- 
ance of fine flowers. To have a succession of Asters, the seed 
should be sown at intervals, from the end of February to the 
end of May. The first sowing should be made in a slight 
hotbed frame, pricking out the seedlings into another frame 
when large enough, gradually hardening them off, and transferring 
to the open ground 
in May. The second 
sowing should be made 
two or three weeks later 
in a cold frame, treating 
the seedlings in the 
same manner as the 
first-sown batch. As 
soon as the seeds ger- 
minate in the frames, 
they must have a plen- 
tiful supply of air, being 
careful to avoid chills, 
or a weak batch of 
plants will be the re- 
sult. Attention must 
also be paid to shading Fig. 131.— Truffaut's P^ony-flowered 
during hot sunshine, or Aster. 
the tiny seedlings will 

be scorched. For succession, a sowing might be made in the 
open ground in April, and again in May, in a good, rich, 
loamy soil, and this batch will flower after the earlier sowings 
are over. In transplanting from the frames to the open 
borders, the plants should be lifted with good balls of earth 
attached ; choose showery weather for the operation, and plant 
in good soil, which ought to have been previously enriched by 
the application of well-rotted farmyard manure If the weather 
turns dry, watering must be attended to, so as to avoid, as far 
as possible, checking the plants in their growth. They should 
be planted from 9in. to i2in. apart each way, and this will 
admit of the hoe being used for keeping the surface open and 
free from weeds. When the plants are well established, and 
have made a mass of roots, it is a good plan to give them 
a good mulching of rotten manure from an old hotbed ; this 

R 2 




244 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



will materially help them at a time when they are in need of 
nourishment, viz., when they are producing their flowers. 

The varieties are very numerous, all of which have originated 
from the one Chinese species, Callistephus chinensis ; they are 

divided into several sections, 
according to height, habit, 
kind of flower, suitability for 
bedding, pot-culture, &c. The 
Pseony-flowered Asters (Fig. 
131) are vigorous plants, 
growing upwards of 2ft. in 
height, and producing large 
incurved flowers of various 
colours ; useful for bedding 
and for flower borders. Vic- 
toria Asters (Fig. 132) are 
"amongst the most popular 
for either bedding or pot- 
culture ; they are of pyramidal 
Fig. 132.— Victoria Aster. habit, ift. in height, pro- 

ducing an abundance of large 
globular flowers, perfectly double and reflexed. There is also 
a dwarf form of Victoria resembling the type in everything but 
size. Dwarf Chrysanthemum-flowered Asters (Fig. 133)^ if sown 
at the same time as the Victorias, will flower later, forming a 
nice succession ; they are of dwarf, compact habit, and for the 
size and brilliancy of the 
flowers are equal to the 
taller sections ; the flowers 
are full and reflexed, and 
produced in such abund- 
ance as almost to hide 
the foliage ; height ift. 
Betteridge's Prize Quilled, 
though not such eflective 
border-plants, are splendid 
for exhibition purposes ; 
they are globular, each petal 
forming a perfect quill, with 
a curious outer ring of 
guard-petals at the base of 

the flowers. Comet Asters, Yig. 133. — Chrvsanthemum-flowered 
ift. to i-^ft. high, have Aster. 
curled petals like Japanese 

Chrysanthemums ; useful for beds or for cut-flowers. Crown, 
or Cockade Asters, i^ft. to 2ft. high, are suitable for bouquets 
and bedding ; the flowers are large, flat, and produced in 
abundance ; the centre of each flower is white, surrounded by 





ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



a distinct belt of lavender, bright crimson, violet, or rose. Dwarf 
Queen Asters, 9in, high, are of spreading growth, exceedingly 
free-flowering, and very useful for cutting. These are the most 
important kinds of China Asters grown in our gardens. Seeds 
of each section may be obtained either in named varieties or in 
choice mixtures, the latter producing plants of many beautiful 
shades of colour. 

Balsams {I?npatiens) are amongst the most showy of summer- 
and autumn-flowering half-hardy annuals, suitable either for filling 
beds and borders, or for pot-plants. The seed should be sown 
about the middle of March in sandy soil under glass, pricking 
out the seedlings into thumb-pots when large enough, and removing 
into larger sizes as required — never allowing them to become 
pot-bound ; they should be grown as near the light as possible, 
and be gradually hardened off by removing to a frame about May, 
finally planting out in the open during June. Balsams require 
a lot of water, and if the supply is short, they will suff'er 
in consequence ; a sharp look-out must also be kept for 
slugs and snails, or they will very soon play sad havoc amongst 
these tender subjects. There are several sections of Balsams, 
amongst which are the Camellia-flowered, with handsome double 
flowers, resembling Camellias in form and in the arrangement 
of the petals ; these grow i^ft. high, and may be procured 
in several varieties. The Rose- and Carnation-flowered differ only 
in the flowers, which resemble, more or less, those of the Rose 
and Carnation respec- 
tively. There is also 
a miniature Balsam, 
growing only gin. high, 
suitable for pot-culture 
and bedding. This, as 
well as the kinds men- 
tioned above, may be 
obtained in many beau- 
tiful varieties. 

Brachycome iberi- 
difolia (Swan River 
Daisy) (Fig. 134) is a 
plant growing Qin. high, 
flowering during sum- 
mer and autumn, and 
producing an abund- 
ance of beautiful Cine- 
raria-like blue flowers. It is admirably adapted for small beds, 
edgings, and rockwork. A white variety is also grown. 

Browallia elata, lift., is often grown as a half-hardy 
annual, and forms a charming plant for flowering in July and 




246 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



August in warm localities. The typical plant has deep blue flowers, 
but forms with white and pale blue flowers are also known. 

Clintonia pulchella, properly called £>owni?igia, is a charming 
little plant, 6in. high, admirable for rockwork, bedding, or for 
edgings ; it has blue, white, and yellow flowers, produced during the 
late summer. 

Cosmos bipinnatus (Fig. 135), 2ft. to 3ft., is a graceful plant, 
with fine feathery foliage and large flowers like single Dahlias : 
they are rose or purple in colour, with yellow disks. . Several 
varieties have originated with white, pink, and rose-coloured 




Fig. 135. — Cosmos bipinnatus. 



flowers, whilst the form sulphu?-ei(s has rich clear yellow flowers, 
and does not grow quite so tall as the others. 

Daturas. — See " Sub-Tropical Bedding." 

Grammanthes gentianoides, 3in. high, forms a little tuft of 
fleshy leaves, and is covered with numerous star-shaped flowers, 
varying in colour from pale yellow to deep red. It flowers in 
July. The seed should l)e sown in heat, during March, and the 
seedlings planted out in May in a dry, warm, sunny situation. 
It is suitable for rockwork, edgings, and also for pot culture. 

Helipterum Sandfordi {HiDuboIdtiajium) is a dwarf, branched 
everlasting, growing from i2in. to i8in. high, and flowering about 
July ; it has dense corymbs of golden-yellow flowers which are 



ox ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



247 



prized for bouquets in 
winter. The plant in 
quite woolly. 

Tacob-Ea. — See Senecio 



both summer and 
a young state is 



genus 



elegmis. 
containing 



several 



Lobelia is a 
half-hardy annuals that are indispensable for 
purposes. For cultivation, kinds 



bedding 
&c., see 



Summer Bedding Plants 



Marigolds (French and African) are favour- 
ite half-hardy annuals, and have been for years 
extensively used for the embellishment of mixed 
flower-borders, and also for summer-bedding. 
The seed should be sowm during the month of 
April in a frame (cold or heated), pricking out 
the seedlings into another frame before 
finally transferring to the beds or borders 
about the end of ^Nlay. Seed may also be 
sown in ^lay, in the place where the 
plants are intended to flower, thinning 
the seedlings to Sin. or gin. apart, keep- 
ing a sharp look-out for slugs, and also 
keeping them free from weeds. Jvlari- 

should be 
in a fairlv 
rich, light soil, and 
they will produce 
an abundance of 
brilliantly - coloured 




golds 
grown 




Fig, 136. — Tage- 
tes erecta 
(Aericax ]Ma- 
rigold). 



^Marigold 



Fig. 137. — Tagetes patula 



(French Marigold). 



flowers from July 
ri2;ht on into au- 
tumn. The African 
{Tagetes erectd) (Fig. 136) is very 
effective for large beds, the fronts 
of shrubberies, &:c. It is of fine, 
bold aspect, 2ft. in height, and pro- 
duces large, handsome flowers, chiefly 
in shades of lemon and 
There is also a dwarf variety, 
ing ift. high, and producing large, 
handsome flowers. The French Mari- 
gold {Tageies patula) (Fig. 137) is 
splendid for bedding, for general 
mixed borders, and also for cutting. 
The taller varieties produce the most 
perfect flowers, but the dwarf ones 
are the best for beds and for small 
gardens. 



orange, 
grow- 



The flowers are produced 



248 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



in shades of yellow and brown, beautifully striped and marked. 
Several named varieties may be procured, including Dwarf 
Golden, a fine yellow form ; ift. high. Liliput, 6in. high, with 
rich brown flowers, edged with golden-yellow. Miniature Queen, 
6in. high, with crimson and yellow flowers. The last two form 
lovely little bushes, and are valuable for small beds, edgings, &:c. 
In growing these double varieties, a few are almost sure to 
come single, and these should be pulled up. Seeds of each 
section, selected from fine strains with double flowers, may be 
obtained Jrom any of our seedsmen, either in named varieties 
or in mixed shades of colour. 

Martynia fragrans, i^ft. to 2ft. high, thrives in a warm, 
sheltered position. It has large crimson Gloxinia-like flowers. 



Fig. 138.— Nemesia strumosa Suttgini. growing annual, from 4in. 

to 6in., suitable for sunny 
banks and warm nooks in the rock garden. It has Daisy-like 
flowers, rosy-pink in colour, with purple centres. It does not like 
transplantation, and should therefore be sown in the open in sandy 
soil. The variety album has white flowers, with purple centres. 

MiNA LOBATA {IpoiiHva Versicolor) is a fine climber, suitable 
for pillars, trellises, cS:c. The flowers are borne in twin-like 




sweetly-scented, and fol- 
lowed by curious horned 
fruit. It flowers in June. 



Mesembryanthemum 

CRYSTALLINUM (IcC Plant) 

is a trailing annual, 
having ornamental foliage 
covered with ice - like 
globules. It will trail 3ft. 
or 4ft. in the season, and 
produce its inconspicuous 
white flowers from May 
to August. The seed 
should be sown in heat 
in March, and the seed- 
lings planted out from 
6in. to Qin. apart during 
June. It is a valuable 
plant for dry, sunny 
banks, rockwork, carpet- 
bedding, &:c., and is 
sometimes grown for gar- 
nishing purposes. There 
are also varieties with 
yellow and purple flowers. 
M. tricolor is a dwarf- 



ON 



ANNUALS 



AND BIENNIALS. 



249 



racemes, and are, at first, of a scarlet shade, afterwards changing 
to orange, and then to pale yellow. They appear about June. 
The seed should be sown in February or March in a warm 
house, and the seedlings potted off singly into small pots, ready 
for planting outside as soon as the w^eather is favourable 

Nemesia strumosa Suttoni (Fig. 138) is a comparatively new 
half-hardy annual from South Africa. It grows about ift. high, 
and produces nume- 
rousflow^ersof 
various shades 
colour from white 
crimson. It com 
mences to flower 
June or July, an 
continues until 
late in the 
autumn. The 
seed should be 
sown in March, 
and the seed- 
lings planted 
out about May. 

Nicotian as 
(Tobacco 
Plants) are vig- 
orous, orna- 
mental-foliaged 
plants, suitable 
for sub-tropical 
gardening. 
They grow 
rapidly in rich, 
deep soils, in 
sheltered and 
somewhat 
moist situa- 
tions. Theseed 
should be sown 
in February in 
a warm house, 
and the seed- 
lings pricked 
o ff , potted 

when thev re- Fig. 139. — Nicotiana wigandioides. 

quire it, and 

finally transplanted into the open ground early in June. Nicotiana 
affinis^ 3ft. high, is a valuable pot- and border-plant ; it has 




250 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



4in. high, 



Uttle 



edgings, 



large pure white flowers, which during the day are partially 
closed, but in the evening open, and emit a delicious fragrance ; 
they are produced from July onwards. xY. atropiirpurea 
grandiflora grows 5 ft. high, and has reddish-purple flowers. 
N. 7viga7idioides (Fig. 139) is a stately plant, growing 5ft. high, and 
is especially suitable for sub-tropical bedding ; it has immense 

handsome leaves and 
yellowish-white flowers, 
produced in large 
drooping panicles. 

Nycterinia (Zaluzi- 
anskia) selaginoides, 
is a charming 
plant for pots, 
or rockwork. 
The seed may either 
be sown under glass in 
JNIarch, or in the open 
air in April. It bears 
clusters of star shaped 
flowers in May — white, 
a yellow eye, very frag- 
at night. N. cape ?i sis 
has white flowers with brown 
eves ; it is like the last-men- 
tioned species in habit and 
stature. 

Phlox Drummondii (Fig. 
140) is certainly one of the 
best of our half-hardy an- 
nuals, producing an abund- 




with 
rant 



Fig. 140. — Phlox Dri'mmondii. 



"5 r^"^^"^"''o 

ance of flowers of various 
hues, commencing in July 
and continuing a blaze of beauty until cut off by the late 
autumn frosts. It may be either grown in beds by itself, 
or used as a carpeting plant for other taller-growing 
subjects, such as Standard Roses, &c. The seed should be 
sown early in March, in a gentle heat, and the seedlings 
planted out in May or June. There are now numerous 
varieties, varying in the colour of their flowers from white to 
purple, and growing about ift. in height ; the variety cuspidata 
and its named forms grow only 6in. high, and produce white, 
rose, red, violet, and scarlet flowers. 

PoRTULACAS are brilliantly-coloured annuals, requiring a dry, 
warm, sunny situation, and a light soil ; they are excellent 
for small beds, rockwork, and for edgings. P. gra?idifio7'a (Sun 
Plant) grows 6in. high, and in June and July produces its flowers 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



prized in bouquets for winter 



in shades varying from white to purple. They are borne three 
or four together. Mixed seed is now offered by our seedsmen, 
producing plants with various coloured flowers. 

Rhodanthe Manglesii is a charming everlasting annual, ex- 
cellent either for beds or for pots in the conservatory ; the 
dried flowers are also much 
decoration. It grows about 
ift., and produces its bright 
rose - coloured flowers in 
June. 

Ricinus communis (Castor- 
oil Plant) and its varieties are 
remarkable for their large and 
23icturesque foliage, which makes 
them excellent subjects for sub- 
tropical gardening. The seed 
should be sown singly in small 
pots in March, and placed in 
heat. As the seedlings fill the 
pots with roots, they should be 
potted on and kept growing 
freely, finally hardening off, and 
planting out in June. They 
reach a height of from 3ft. to 
5ft., and produce their greenish 
flowers in July. Gibsoni has 
bronzy-purplish leaves. Zanzi- 
bar iensis is a noble plant, 6ft. 
to 8ft. high, having handsome 
light green leaves, 2ft. across, 
with whitish ribs. Its variety 
enormis has large brown purple 
foliage, changing to dark green 
or red when older. 

Salpiglossis sinuata (or 
variabilis) (Fig. 141) is a splen- 
did annual, 2ft. high, flowering 
in August. The flowers are 
somewhat after the fashion of 
the Petunia, and are curiously 
pencilled. There are now 
numerous varieties varying in 
the colour of their flowers from 

white to purple. All are of great beauty, and in beds and 
borders their brilliant flowers at once attract the eye ; as pot- 
plants they are excellent, whilst the cut flowers are highly prized 
for vases and bouquets. 




Fig. 141. — Salpiglossis sinuata. 



252 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ScHiZANTHUS Grahami retusus (Fig. 142) is an elegant 
autumn-flowering annual, suitable for beds and borders ; its deep 
rose-coloured flowers, tipped with crimson, are produced from 

June to October. Grows 2ft. high. 
S. phinatus^ 2ft. high, has rosy-purple 
and yellow flowers, spotted with purple 
or violet. It flowers from May to 
October, and is the hardier of the 
two species. They make excellent 
pot plants. 

ScHizoPETALON Walkeri is a 
pretty annual, bearing white flowers, 
which are delightfully fragrant 
in the morning and evening, or 
after a shower. It grows ift. 
high, and flowers from May to 
August. 

Senecio (Jacob.ea) elegans 
(Double Groundsel) has long been 
a favourite bedding-plant, flowering 
in July and onwards till October ; 
there are three or four varieties, with 
crimson, purple, and white flowers, 
also several dwarf varieties, growing 
only pin. high ; these produce a 
brilliant effect in beds and mixed 
borders. 

Stocks form a useful and very 
ornamental class of plants for flower- 
garden decoration, and are, or ought 
to be, grown in every garden. The 
numerous, and may be divided as 
Intermediate, and Biennial groups, 
should be sown in March or 
or boxes under glass, aff"ording air when 
quite young, and watering carefully so as to 




Fig. 142. — ScHizANTHus 
Graha:mi retusus. 



varieties are now very 
follows : The Ten-weeks 
The Ten-weeks Stocks 
April in pans 
the plants are 



large 



prevent mildew from attacking them. The seedlings, when 
enough to handle, should be pricked off into an old hotbed 
frame, or into boxes, keeping them as near the glass as possible 
to prevent drawing, and finally transplanting into the beds or 
borders during showery weather. The seed may also be sown 
in the open border about the end of April, in good soil, well 
dug and manured. Plants from this will flower when the 
earlier-sown batches have finished, keeping up a supply until late 
autumn. 

There are several varieties, including the 



large-flowered 



dwarf Bedding Stock, growing ift. 



high. 



and 



forming 



a most 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



useful subject for general bedding ; the plants are branching and 
of robust growth, whilst the flowers are large, of various colours, 
and are produced in great profusion. The Dwarf Bouquet Stock, 
9in. high, forms a dwarf, compact plant, smothered in flower, 
and is suitable for small beds and edgings. The Giant Globe 
Pyramidal Stock is i-|ft. high, with long pyramidal flower-spikes 
covered with large globular flowers 2 in. in diameter. It may be 
had in various colours, and is an effective plant in large beds and 
borders. 

The Intermediate is a valuable section largely used by market 
growers. If sown in March or early in April in heat, it 
flowers in autumn and keeps on until cut down by frost. It 
may also be treated as a 
half-hardy biennial by sowing 
in July and August, winter- 
ing in a cold frame, and 
transplanting in early spring 
for May and June flowering. 
This group is also used 
largely for growing in pots. 
There are several sub- 
divisions, such as the East 
Lothian, a branching Stock, 
I Sin. high, with hand- 
some trusses of flowers, 
in various colours, and 
the Covent Garden, a 
dwarfer kind, growing 
about ift. in height. 
The biennial group 
will be treated under 
"Biennials." 

Tagetes signata, 
i^ft. high, is a profuse- 
blossoming branched 
Marigold, with yellow 
flowers. T. signata 
piiniila is much dwarfer 
than the type, and more 

compact in habit ; the form known as Golden Ring grows 
into a sturdy little bushj ift. high, and for bedding pur- 
poses is superior to the yellow Calceolaria, being literally 
smothered in golden-yellow flowers during summer and late 
autumn. 




Fig. 143. — Trop.'Eolum majus. 



Trop^olums (Nasturtiums) are exceedingly showy plants, and 
very popular. Tropceolum canariejise (Canary Creeper) is a 
half-hardy annual, with bright yellow flowers and elegant foliage ; 



254 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



it is a climber, growing 6rt. high, and is very suitable for growing 
over arches, over the sides of flower-boxes, &c. It is also known 
as T. pereg7'imim and T. admiciun. T. Lobbiaitum is a superb 
climber, flowering more freely on a poor dry soil There are 
several named varieties, differing only in the colour of their 
flowers ; all are graceful climbers, bearing a great profusion of 
blossom, in rich and brilliant colours. They are suitable for cover- 
ing arbours, rustic fences, trellis-work, &c. T. viajus (Indian 
Cress) (Fig. 143) is the species from which the numerous forms 
of Tom Thumb Nasturtiums have originated. Few plants are so 

useful or rich in colour 
as these Nasturtiums, for 
in dry soils they surpass 
the Geranium and Cal- 
ceolaria in brilliancy of 
colour and profusion of 
flower. Seeds may be 
had either in named 
varieties or in mixed 
colours. All the 
annual Trop^olums 
may be easily raised 
from seed sown in 
the open ground in 
April, or in pots under 
glass, the young plants 
being gradually hardened 
off and planted out about 
the beginning of June, 
when they will soon 
commence to flower and 
will keep on until October. 

Waitzia aurea (Fig. 
144) is a very showy 
everlasting, producing its 
bright yellow flowers in 
loose corymbs during the 
summer. It grows about 
I ft. in height, and is 
sometimes called Morna 
nitida. 

Fig. 144.-AVAITZIA AUREA. 21NNIAS are exceed- 

ingly handsome autumn- 
flowering annuals, producing richly-coloured flowers in great pro- 
fusion ; for filling flower-beds and borders, and for cutting, few 
flowers are more useful. The seed should be sown in a gentle 
hotbed in March or April, pricking out the seedlings into frames, 




ox AXXUALS AXD BIEXXIALS. 255 

and finally transferring to their flowering quarters in June. They 
like a deep rich soil and a sunny position. Zinnia elegans is 
the one from which most of our [jarden forms have originated. 
The typical plant grows 2 ft. high, and produces its scarlet 
flowers in July. There are now numerous double and single 
forms in various shades of colour, all of which are well worth 
growing. The Zebrinas, or striped Zinnias, grow from ift. to 
i^ft. high : they have beautifully-striped double flowers, and 
about half of them come true from seed. 

Biennials. 

These are plants very closely allied to annuals, the distinction 
lying in the fact that they do not flower the same year as 
sown, but must have two years to come to maturity, whilst 
annuals, both hardy and half-hardy, may be had in flower 
the same vear. Biennials are grown from seed one vear, 
and flower, fruit, and die the next : or if they do manage to 
live over the second year they are of little use afterwards. 
From June till August is the usual time to sow — the earlier the 
better, as they then stand a good chance of making nice plants 
before winter sets in. For sowing, a border should be chosen, 
with an aspect other than a south one, so that the seedlings do 
not receive the full rays of the scorching summer sun ; the soil 
should be moderately rich, deeply dug, and free from weeds. 
The seeds are best sown in drills, as the hoe can then be used 
for keeping down weeds, and also for keeping the surface open 
— a point which is often greatly overlooked in the cultivation of 
plants of all kinds. After sowing, a good watering should be 
given them — through a fine rose, so as not to disturb the seeds — 
and a thin shading of tiffany or other light material should be 
thrown over, to keep the soil from drying up too quickly ; .great 
care, however, must be taken to remove this as soon as the seed- 
lings break through the soil. AVhen large enough, they should be 
transplanted into rows a few inches apart : this must be done 
before they get overcrowded in the seed-bed, and they will then 
make strong sturdy plants, and will lift with good balls of soil 
when removed to their permanent quarters. 

The time for permanent planting varies from the end of 
September to ^Nlarch, some preferring to plant in the autumn, 
because then the weather is usually much milder than in early 
spring, and if carefully planted they get a good hold of the new 
soil before winter sets in. On the other hand, those who wait 
until spring before planting, have this advantage, viz., that the 



256 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



plants are all kept together, and if a spell of exceptionally hard 
weather is experienced, they may be much more easily pro- 
tected by having some dry leaves or other light material 
thrown lightly amongst them, than if scattered about the beds 
and borders. 

With regard to the after-treatment of biennials — uses, &c. — 
the remarks under the head of " Annuals " may be taken as 
applying equally to biennials, and will therefore not be repeated 
here. A large number of hardy annuals are very often treated 
as " biennials " by being sown in the autumn of one year for 
flowering the following spring, and seeing that these have been 
described under the head of "Hardy Annuals," only those plants 

of strictly biennial duration — and they 
are far from numerous — ^are left for 
description here. 

Anchusa capensis (Cape Forget-me- 
Not) has intense blue flowers ; it is a 
half-hardy biennial, requiring greenhouse 
protection in winter. It grows from i2in. 
to i8in. high, and flowers in June. 

Beta is a genus containing several 
ornamental-foliaged biennials which are 
invaluable for summer-bedding. Beta 
Cicla variegata (Chilian Beet) has 
very handsome variegated leaves, and 
forms an effective plant in sub-tropical 
bedding. Dell's Crimson-leaved Beet 
grows Irom 6in. to i2in. high, and is 
beautiful as an edging or in the mixed 
flower-border. It has crimson leaves. 

Campanula Medium (Canterbury Bell) 
(Fig. 145) is a handsome decorative 
border plant, especially when grown as 
a single specimen. It grows 3ft. or 4ft. 
high, and in July produces an abundance 
of flowers in shades of colour varying 
from white to purple. The single forms 
are popularly known as Cup-and-Saucer 
Canterbury Bells, whilst the double ones 
are known as the Hose-within-Hose 
Campanulas. 

Celsia cretica is a popular biennial, 
growing 3ft. or 4ft. high, and flowering 
in June and July. It has bright yellow flowers marked with two 
rusty spots at the bottom of the corolla on the inner side. 




Fig. 145. — Campanula 
Medium. 



ON ANNUALS AND BIENNIALS. 



Cham^peuce diacantha and C. Casabon/e (Fish-bone 
Thistle) are ornamental Thistle-like plants, with handsome spiny 
foliage ; they are used in sub-tropical and carpet-bedding arrange- 
ments, being grown expressly for the sake of their ornamental 
foliage. These plants are usually treated as half-hardy annuals, 

Glaucium luteum (Horned Poppy) has ornamental glaucous- 
grey foliage and showy scarlet or yellow flowers. It makes a 
fine plant for borders and for the wild 
garden, and delights in a poor sandy soil. 
It flowers in August. 

Hedysarum coronarium (French Honey- 
suckle) is usually treated as a biennial. It 
has crimson and white flowers, which are 
produced in June. It forms a showy plant 
for shrubberies, wild gardens, &c., growing 
to a height of 2ft., and bearing dense spikes 
of blossom. 

HuMEA ELEGANS IS a half-hardy biennial, 
suitable for sub-tropical gardening. It has 
graceful, feathery panicles of brownish-red 
flowers, and powerfully-scented foliage. It 
grows from 4ft. to 6ft. high, and flowers 
from July to October. A white variety is 
also in cultivation. The seed should be 
sow^n in July or August, and the plants kept 
in a frame or cool house throughout the 
winter, during which period they must be 
very carefully watered or they will lose all 
their bottom leaves. They should not be 
planted out before June, as they are tender 
subjects, and being tall-growing, they need 
to be staked to protect them from rough 
winds. 

Honesty i^Lu7iaria annua) (Fig. 146) is 
a handsome spring-flowering border plant, 
thriving in almost any soil. The type has 
purple flowers, but there are two or three Fig. 146. — Lunaria 
varieties, one having white flow^ers. It grows annua. 
from i^ft. to 2ft. high, and flowers from May 

to July. The pods, which are elliptic in shape, but blunt at the 
ends, are very ornamental for winter decoration when stripped of 
their outer coverings,. Synonymous with L. biennis. 

Lavatera arborea variegata is a strikingly handsome foliage 
plant, with leaves beautifully variegated ; it grows from 4ft. to 
6ft. high, and makes a noble specimen plant for lawns or for 
sub-tropical bedding. It has large pale purple flowers, 2in. across, 
which are produced during August and late autumn. 

s 




THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Meconopsis. — M. nepalensis is a grand plant, 4ft. high, with 
handsome foliage and large golden-yellow saucer-shaped flowers, 
2in. to 3in. across, produced in abundance in June and July on 
the tall flower-stem. It thrives best in a cool, moist, shady 
situation, planted in rough, peaty soil. M. Wallichi (Blue 
Himalayan Poppy) is a handsome biennial, 4ft. to 6ft. high, 
producing its pale blue flowers in June. 

Papaver nudicaule (Iceland Poppy) is usually grown as 
a biennial, being sown in late summer for flowering the following 
season. It grows from i2in. to i8in. high, and produces flowers 

in very delicate shades of white, 
yellow, orange, and scarlet. It is 
an admirable subject for rockwork 
or the front of borders, the cut 
flowers being also highly prized. 

Stocks, grown as biennials, are 
generally the " Bromptons " and the 
" Queens." The seed should be 
sown in July for flowering the 
following May or June ; the seed- 
lings should be wintered on a dry 
border, or preferably in a cold frame 
or greenhouse, and transplanted into 
their flowering quarters about March 
or early April. The Giant Brompton 
is remarkable for its robust growth 
and immense spikes of large double 
flowers, in various shades of white, 
scarlet, and purple. It grows to a 
height of 2ft. The Queen Stock 
is very like the Brompton, but as 
a rule the underside of the leaf 
is rough and woolly, whilst that of 
the Brompton is smooth on both 
sides. It grows i^ft. high, and, 
like the Brompton, produces flowers 
in shades of white, scarlet, and 
purple. Both the Brompton and 
Queen Stocks have originated from 
the same species — Mathiola incana, 
a species with purplish flowers which 
grows wild on the cliffs in the Isle 
of Wight. It is known as the Wallflower-leaved Stock. 

Sweet William {Dianthus barbatus) (Fig. 147) is usually treated as 
a biennial, and, when well grown, forms an excellent border plant. 
It attains a height of i8in., and about July produces a mass of 
flowers of various colours. The Auricula-eyed have crimson 




Fig. 



147. — Dianthus 
barbatus. 



ox AXXUAL5 AND EIEXXIALS. 



flowers with white eyes. The seed may be sown in ^lay, and 
the young plants transferred to their permanent quarters in 
September or October for flowering the following season. 

Verbascums are grand plants for shrubberies, or for growing in 
back positions in large flower borders where they show oft' to 
advantage. V. olyinpiaim is one of the best, with large silvery 
leaves and tall branched flower-spikes, 6ft. in height : these are 
covered with numerous rich yellow flowers, lin. across. Flowers 
from May to August. V. phlo7?ioides grows 5ft. high. It has 
massive green foliage and bright yellow flowers, which are pro- 
duced successionally from ]\Iay to August, as in the last-mentioned 
species. 

AVallflowers (^Chei7'a?ithiis Cheiri) are exceedingly showy and 
effective sweet-scented border plants ; no garden, however small, 
should be without a clump of these old-fashioned and decidedly 
popular plants. The seed should be sown in April and ]vlay — the 
earlier the better — for flowering the following spring. There are 
numerous varieties in cultivation, some with double and others 
with single flowers. Harbinger, i^ft. high, has very large single 
flowers, varying from brown to orange-red. Primrose Dame has 
sulphur-yellow flowers. Golden Tom Thumb is very fine, pro- 
ducing an abundance of rich orangre-vellow flowers. It is also 
a single and grows about ift. high. Ruby Gem is from i2in. to 
1 5 in. high, with extra large single flowers of a ruby-violet colour. 
The double-flowered German Wallflowers produce massive spikes 
of large, sweet-scented flowers, which are remarkable for the 
variety of their colours, and are highly appreciated for the 
embellishment of flower-beds and borders. 




Agrostis xebulosa. 



S 2 




By J. M. Abbott. 



Under the above heading are grouped plants having soft and 
succulent stems, which die down to the ground each year ; 
whilst the roots live for more than two years, are able to endure 
our English winters in the open border, and send up new stems 
each spring. It will thus be seen that they are quite distinct 
from other hardy plants grown in our gardens, from trees and 
shrubs on account of the soft and succulent (not woody) nature 
of their stems, and from annuals and biennials because of their 
more or less indefinite period of existence. 

At the present day the number of hardy herbaceous perennials 
suitable for growing in our gardens is endless, as a cursory 
glance through the catalogues of nurserymen making a speciality 
of these plants will show. A large proportion of plants so 
catalogued are of interest to the botanist only, but, at the same 
time, quite numbers are of service to the gardener, and indispens- 
able for the embellishment of the flower garden throughout the 
greater part of the year. Hardy herbaceous perennials are a 
very popular set of plants. Many of them are old-fashioned^ 
having been grown in our gardens for a great number of years, 
whilst others are comparatively new, and have soon become 
universal favourites. 

Uses. — The first and most important use to which perennials, 
are put is undoubtedly the embellishment of the mixed flower- 



ox HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 26 1 

border, of which they may be said to form the backbone, for 
at the present time, in gardens both large and small, are to be 
found borders set apart chiefly for the cultivation of this class 
of plants, supplemented by a free use of annuals and biennials. 
Then again, the tall and vigorous-growing perennials are 
extremely useful for the decoration of shrubberies, wild gardens, 
&c., in which positions they prove quite attractive, and at the 
same time do not require much attention. There is yet another 
way in which these plants may be profitably utilised, and that is 
in providing a supply of cut-flowers suitable for table decoration, 
bouquets, (Sic, and at a time when there is a dearth of flowers 
adapted for cutting under glass, viz., during the early autumn. 

Cultivation. — The majority of hardy herbaceous perennials 
thrive well in any ordinary garden soil, though a rather heavy 
loam, made moderately rich by the application of manure, is 
best suited for their culture, especially for those of tall and 
vigorous growth. 

If the situation is too wet, draining must be resorted to ; and 
if the soil is too tenacious and heavy, it must be either dug 
out and replaced by a more suitable compost, or made lighter 
in texture by adding a quantity of leaf-mould, &c. If, on the 
other hand, it is naturally too light and sandy, it is advisable 
to apply a dressing of heavy loam, incorporating it well with 
the original soil. In preparing a new border for the reception 
of these plants, it is imperative that it should be trenched to 
a depth of 2ft. the autumn previous to planting, and at the 
same time manure, if required, should be added, so as to 
admit of its being thoroughly mixed with the soil. If these 
operations are carried out in the autumn, the border will be in 
fine condition for planting the following spring, as the soil will 
then have had time to consolidate. 

The operation of planting is one that requires an intimate 
knowledge of the subjects being dealt with, especially with 
regard to their height, colour, and flowering period, so as to find 
suitable positions for them, the object being to dispose of them 
so that the whole border may be equally interesting at all 
seasons of the year. It would be a mistake to have all the 
early-flowering subjects at one end of the border, and all the 
late ones at the other ; or to have all the plants with red 
flowers at one end and all those with white ones at the other. 
The spring-flowering subjects should occupy positions throughout 
the entire border, and so should the summer- and autumn- 



262 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



flowering plants. In the same way each colour should be 
spread throughout the border in such a way that perfect 
harmony prevails. Of course, if half-a-dozen plants of one kind 
are to be employed, by all means plant them together in a 
group, or in two groups, as this is much more satisfactory than 
dotting them about singly all over the border. Generally the 
position of the flower-border is against the side of a house or 
wall of some kind, and when this is the case, it is an invariable 
rule to plant the tall, vigorous-growing subjects towards the back, 
reserving the front positions for the dwarf and weakly sorts- If, 
however, the border is of a good width, this plan ought not be 
adhered to too strictly. Here and there the tall plants might 
be allowed to come towards the front, so as to break the 
formality which otherwise would be evident. 

This naturally leads us to the question, When is the best 
time to plant ? " And this may be answered by saying that, 
providing the weather is favourable, hardy herbaceous perennials 
may be planted any time between ripening their summer growth 
and commencing to grow again in the spring, though weakly- 
growing subjects are best left until the last-mentioned period. 
When once planted, perennials are often allowed to remain 
undisturbed for years, receiving no other treatment than being 
dug amongst annually, chopping off portions from the outside of 
clumps that have become too large, and giving an occasional 
dressing of manure. More satisfactory results could be obtained 
in the majority of cases by lifting the plants bodily every second 
or third year, trenching and manuring the border previous to 
replanting. The strong, vigorous growers should then be divided, 
and smaller portions replanted. When the strong growers burst 
into growth in the spring, they generally produce far more shoots 
than are required, and it is an excellent plan to thin these out, 
leaving only a moderate proportion. They will well repay for 
this judicious thinning by a prolonged period of flowering and 
also by producing flowers of better quality. 

Staking and training are operations that require to be seen 
to in good time, and, in performing these, the peculiarities of 
the individual plants must not be interfered with, all tight lumping 
must be avoided, and the stakes must be placed so as to be 
hidden as much as possible by the foliage. Cleanliness must 
always be aimed at, for nothing detracts more from the general 
beauty of the border than ■ weeds. These must have no quarter, 
and, at the same time, flowers and foliage that are decayed and 



ON HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 



263 



no longer serve any useful purpose, must be removed. If alpines 
are grown in the mixed border, they must be planted at the front, 
and care must be taken that they are not overrun by stronger 
growers. It is a good plan to place a few stones round them, 
so as to keep the collar of the plant from off the soil ; otherwise, 
in mild, .wet winters they are apt to damp off. 

When a large number of cut-flowers are required, it is best 
to grow plants, especially for furnishing these, in the reserve 
garden. 

Propagation. — By Division. — This is a method which consists 
in dividing up the old root-stock into two or more portions, each 
of which is furnished with roots and forms a separate plant. 
Many of the strong-growing kinds lend themselves admirably to 
this method of increase. In fact, division of the crowns often has 
to be resorted to in order to keep them within bounds — with 
Michaelmas Daisies, to quote a familiar example. In dividing 
the root-stock, it is always best, where practicable, to break or 
pull it asunder, rather than to chop it with the spade, a process 
which is responsible for the loss of many valuable roots. Of 
course, this only applies to the moderate growers ; the stronger 
ones do not mind the loss of a few roots. 

By Seeds. — Seeds may be sown at any time of the year 
under glass, and in the open from March to September. The 
best time to sow outside is during April or May, as then the 
seedlings have time to form strong plants before winter sets in. 
The seeds should be sown in beds in the reserve garden, and 
when large enough, the seedlings should be planted in nursery 
rows, in good soil and sheltered situations, in the reserve 
garden, and kept growing on until of a size suitable for trans- 
ferring to the open border. 

By Ciittijigs. — This is an easy way of working up a stock 
of many kinds, and is often resorted to when other methods 
fail or are carried on with difficulty. It has one great 
advantage, and that is the plants so obtained are bound to 
be true to name, and such is not always the case when they 
are raised from seed. Cuttings of the young shoots taken off 
in spring and inserted in pots or pans of light sandy soil, 
will root readily if they are placed in close frames and kept 
shaded from strong sunlight ; while if a little bottom-heat is 
available, that will prove an advantage and materially assist 
the cuttings in the formation of roots. After rooting, the 
cuttings must be gradually inured to light and air, and kept 



I 



264 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

growing freely all the summer. If flowers appear they must 
be pinched out in the bud state, so that the whole energy of 
the plant may be directed towards making a good strong 
specimen, able to withstand the winter. 

In the i|following list of species and varieties all the more 
popular florists' flowers, as well as bulbs and tubers, have been 
intentionally omitted, as these have been separately treated 
in chapters devoted to those plants ; while further enumeration 
of species and varieties will be found in the "Appendix." 

Achillea Ptarmica flore-pleno (Double Sneezewort) is a 
useful border plant, growing 2ft. high, and producing an abundance 
of double white flowers in corymbs ; these are invaluable for 
cutting, and may be had from July to September. Propagation 
by seeds, cuttings, or division. 

AcoNiTUM Napellus (Common Monk's Hood) is a tall Lark- 
spur-like plant, growing from 3ft. to 4ft. high, and bearing numerous 

blue helmet-shaped flowers on 
large terminal racemes. It is of 
easy culture, and forms a very 
effective border plant, suitable 
also for shrubberies, wild gardens, 
(Sec. ; it must, however, be planted 
where there is no fear of cattle 
getting at the roots, which are ex- 
tremely poisonous, and although 
quite distinct, have sometimes been 
mistaken for Horse-radish, with 
fatal results. The variety album 
has white flowers, and bicoloi- blue 
and white. Both varieties, as well 
as the type, flower from June 
to September. Propagated by 
seeds or division. 

Agrcstemma coronaria. — A 
synonym of Lychnis coronaria. 

Aquilegia (Columbine) is a 
genus of free-flowering subjects 
of easy culture in ordinary 
garden soil. They are suitable 

for beds, borders, shrubberies, 
Fig. 148.— Aquilegia Stuartii. „ j\u • • u ^ 

^ &c., and thrive in shady situa- 

tions. They are also very 
beautiful when naturalised in grass ; and the flowers are also 
prized for cutting, x^quilegias are propagated by seeds or by 
division, the latter method being the only safe way to 




ON HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 265 

perpetuate any distinct variety, as they do not reproduce 
themselves entirely true from seeds. A sowing of seeds will, 
however, yield a fair proportion true to name, or at any rate of 
good colour and habit, and the inferior ones may be pulled up 
and thrown away, A. ccerulea (Rocky Mountain Columbine) 
is one of the best; it grows from i^ft. to 2ft. high, and 
bears large sky-blue flowers, with white cups and long spurs, 
from May to July. Numerous others are also grown, including 
A. chrysaniha^ with bright golden-yellow flowers ; A. glandulosa^ 
with deep azure-blue flowers and white corollas ; A. pyreiiaica^ 
with delicate fern-like foliage, and bright lilac or blue flowers; 
this last is suitable for the rockery ; and the beautiful hybrid, 
A.\Stuartii (Fig. 148), purple, blue, and white. 




Fig. 149. — Aster Amellus bessarabicus. 



Asters (Michaelmas Daisies) are handsome plants of easy 
culture, suitable for either borders, shrubberies, or wild gardens ; 



266 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and, as the flowers are produced in great profusion in the late 
autumn, when few hardy plants are in flower, they are very much 
prized for cutting. The species and varieties are very numerous, and 
are propagated by either seeds, cuttings, or division. In dividing 
the plants (which is best done in the spring, although autumn 
may be selected), only the outside portions should be utilised. 
The old stools are best thrown away. Asie?' acris is an attractive 
plant, of neat, bushy habit, reaching a height of 2ft., and bearing 
an abundance of bright blue flowers during August and Sep- 
tember. A. Aniellus grows 2ft. high, and bears numerous violet- 
purple flowers in August and September. Its variety bessarabicus 
(Fig. 149) is one of the best in the whole genus. It has purplish 
flowers, much larger than those of the type. A. diffusus 
horizontalis is of curious habit, growing 2ft. high. It is an 
exceedingly effective border plant, its numerous branching stems 
being literally smothered with small white flowers edged with 
red. It flowers during September and October. A. ericoides has 
long graceful sprays of small white flowers. A. grandiflorus (2ft. 
to 2\{^. high) bears an abundance of large violet or blue flowers 

during September and October. A. 
Novce-A7igliai bears purple flowers with 
orange centres, in terminal clusters, on 
stems varying from 3ft. to 5ft. 
Two or three varieties are also 
A. Novce-Belgii grows 3ft' 4ft • high, 
and produces its pale blue flowers 
in the late autumn. Numerous 
garden varieties are in cultivation, 
difiering from the type chiefly in 
the colour of their flowers. A. 
iindiilatus grows 3ft. high, and 
produces an abundance of soft 
lilac-coloured flowers. A. vimiiieiis 
(3ft.), small white, star-shaped 
flowers, or graceful sprays. See also 
'^Appendix." 

BoccoNiA CORDATA (Plume 
Poppy) is a handsome foliage 
plant, having large roundish 
leaves, which are deeply 
lobed. It grows from 5ft. to- 
7ft. high, and bears terminal 
panicles of creamy-white 
flowers during July and 
August. For shrubberies, beds, or back positions in the mixed 
border, it is well suited; but it is especially adapted for the wild 
garden, as it "runs" considerably. Increased by division or 
taken by off with a heel in 




high, 
grown. 



Fig. 150.— Campanula pyramidalis. 



cuttmgs 



sprmg. 



ox HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 



267 



Campanulas are handsome subjects, with bell-shaped flowers. 
The tall-growing kinds will be found invaluable for large borders. 
Propagation by seeds, cuttings, or division. Campanula persici- 
folia and its variety 7naxima have blue flov/ers. A white variety 
{alba) is also grown. These plants attain a height of 2ft. or 
more, and flower from June to August. C. pyrainidalis (Chimney 
Bell-flower) (Fig. 150) is a noble plant, forming a bushy pyramid, 
composed of numerous stems, 4ft. or 5ft. high. These, during 
June and July, are crowded wnth large 
blue salver-shaped flow^ers. Its w^hite 
variety {alba) is similar in habit, differing 
only in the colour of its flow^ers. The 
species and its variety are splendid plants, 
either for the border or for pot-culture. 
Numerous others are also grown. An 
excellent plant is C. glomerata (Fig. 151). 
It grows some 2ft. high, and varies con- 
siderably as to colour from bluish-violet 
to white. As the specific name implies, 
the flowers are produced in clusters. 

Centaureas are useful border plants, 
of easy culture in ordinary garden soil. 
They are increased by either seeds or 
cuttings. C. dealbata grows i^ft. high, 
and bears rose-coloured flowers from July 
to September. C. glastifolia produces pale 
yellow flowers from June to September, 
on stems 3ft. to 4ft. high. C. niaa-o- 
cephala is a useful plant for the back of 
the herbaceous border. It grows from 3ft. 
to 4ft. high, and bears large heads ot 
yellow Thistle-like flowers during July and 
August. C. viontana is an early summer- 
flowering species, growing 2ft. high, and 
producing large bright blue flowers ; the 
varieties alba and rosea differ only in the 
colour of their flowers. C. piilchra growls 
I ft. high, and bears purple flowers during 

August ; its variety major has bright rosy-purple flowers and 
beautifully cut silvery-grey foliage. C. rutlienica growls about 
3ft. high ; it has graceful foliage, and bears pale yellow flowers 
in July. 

Chelone barbata. — This is synonymous with Pentstemon 
barbatus. 




Fig. 151. — Campanula 
glomeeata. 



Chrysanthemums are useful border plants, the cut flowers 
being also much appreciated for decorative purposes. They are 
readily increased by either seeds, cuttings, suckers, or root 



268 



THE BOOK OF GARDEXIXG. 



division. Chrysanthenmni maxinuim grows 2^ft. high, and 
forms a large bush, which, from June to September, is covered 
with white flowers of great size and substance. C. uliginosiim 
(syn. Py?-eth7'um uliginosmii) grows 5ft. high, and is a valuable 
plant for autumn decoration, either in back positions in the 
herbaceous border, in shrubberies, or in beds in semi-wild 
parts of the pleasure-ground. It has large Daisy-like flowers, 

pure white, with yellow 
centres, from 2 in. to 




3m. 



across, and pro- 
duced during Septem- 
ber and October. 

CoLUMBiXE. — See 
Aquiiegia. 

Coreopsis is a genus 
containing several pe- 
rennials which form 
graceful border plants. 
They produce an abun- 
dance of showy flowers, 
which are highly prized 
for room decoration, 
&c. Propagated by 
seeds, cuttings, or divi- 
sion. C. grandijiora 
(syn. C. Ion gi pes) (Fig. 
152) is one of the 
finest of hardy border 
plants, and of which 
someone has said that 
" a whole page would 
not adequately describe 
the merits of this plant ; 
it is simply indispens- 
able." It grows about 
2ft. high, and from June 
to September bears a 
profusion of large 
golden-yellow flowers. C. laiiceolata has also bright golden-yellow 
flowers, and grows upwards of 3ft. in height. C. vei'ticillata is 
a distinct slender-growing kind, reaching 2ft. in height, and 
bearing yellow flowers. 

Delphiniums (Larkspurs) are noble plants, producing large 
spikes of beautiful flowers. They are useful subjects for the 
herbaceous border. The taller-growing kinds are also suitable for 
shrubberies, (S:c. Propagated by seeds, cuttings, or division. 



Fig. 152. — Coreopsis graxdiflora. 



D. cardiJiale is a species of elegant branching habit, 



growmg 



ON HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 



269 



3ft. high, and yielding bright scarlet flowers, with yellow 
centres, during July and August. D. grandiflortun grows 2ft. 
high, and in July produces panicles of dark blue flowers. 
D. midkaule is a dwarf kind, growing only i8in. high, and 
bearing a profusion of bright orange-red flowers with yellow 
centres ; it is an excellent rock-garden plant, and delights in 
sunny positions. Spring-sown seedlings will flower the first 
season. 

DiCENTRAS (DiELYTRAs) are lovely spring- or early summer- 
flowering plants. Propagated by cuttings or by division of the 
crowns in early spring. D. formosa has delicate fern-like 
foliage, and umbels of drooping red flowers, produced during 
May and June ; it grows ift. high. D. spectabilis (Bleeding 




Fig. 153. — DiELYTRA SPECTABILIS. 

Heart) (Fig. 153) is a well-known forcing plant, and also one 
of the best for border culture; it grows 2ft. high, and flowers 
during May, June, and July. The flowers are produced on 
drooping racemes, and are white and rosy-crimson. 

DiCTAMNUS. — D. albus (Fraxinella) (Fig. 154) is a favourite 
old border plant, forming a neat bush from i8in. to 3ft. 
high. It is said that the Fraxinella has outlived father, son, and 
grandson in the same position. It is sometimes known as the 
"Burning Bush," because of a resinous exudation from the stems, 
which, when a light is applied, has a luminous appearance at 



270 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



night. The foliage, when bruised, emits a strong balsamic 
perfume. The flowers are produced in long terminal erect 
racemes during June and July, and are white in colour. A 
form is also grown with reddish flowers ; this is generally 

known as D. Fraxiiiella^ whilst the 
white one is given as a variety. 
Propagated by seeds or by division. 

DiELYTRAS. — See Dicentras. 

DoRONicuMS are handsome spring- 
and suniQier-flowering subjects, with 
large yellow Daisy-like flowers ; they 
are suitable for bed and border culture, 
and are propagated either by seeds or 
by division. D. austriaaem forms a 
mass of deep glistening green foliage, 
and bears numerous large golden- 
yellow flowers from iVTarch to May ; 
it grows I Sin. high. D. pla?ifagineia>i 
excelsuni (syn. Harpur Crewe) is more 
robust in habit than the last-mentioned, 
reaching a height of from 2^ft. to 
3ft. It flowers from May to August, 
the flowers being deep yellow, and 
upwards of 4in. across. 

Epilobiums are showy plants of 
easy culture, suitable for large borders 
or for naturalising on the margin of 
water. Increased by seeds or by divi- 
sion. K. angiistifoUuni is a tall plant, 
growing from 3ft. to 5ft. high, and 
Fig. 154. — DicTAMNus producing showy crimson flowers during 
ALBus, June, July, and August. The variety 

albiivi^ with white flowers, is also grown. 
E. Dodojicei grows from i2in. to i8in. high, and bears large 
rose-coloured flowers ; it is also known as E. Fleischeri. 

Erigerons are summer-flowering composites with beautiful 
star-shaped flowers ; they are increased by either seeds or 
division. E. aura?itiacus grows from 6in. to i8in. high, and 
bears large orange-coloured flowers during August. E. speciosus 
is a showy plant for the mixed border ; the flowers are 
lavender-coloured, and have yellow centres ; they are produced 
during July and August on stems 2 ft. high. Its variety 
superbus has large purple flowers, and is a very free and 
continuous flowerer. 

Eryngiums are handsome plants with peculiar spiny foliage, 
and large branching heads of Thistle-like flowers ; they are 




ox HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 



271 



suitable for almost any position, being very eftective in mixed 
borders, shrubberies, and sub-tropical and wild gardens, whilst the 
flower-heads are prized for winter decoration ; they prefer a 
deep sandy soil, and are propagated by either seeds or 
division. E. alpiiunn grows from 2ft. to 3ft. high, and forms 
a distinct and noble border plant, with spiny foliage : the 
involucres and bracts are deeply cut, and together with the 
flower-heads and upper portion of the stems are of a glistening 
metallic-blue colour. E. gigajiteum (Ivory Thistle) (Fig. 155) 
grows from 2ft. to 4ft. high, and flowers during July and 
August : the stems, leaves, 
and bracts are of a shining 
white colour, and the whole 
plant is rigid and spiny. E. 
Oliueriaiuim is a beautiful 
plant, 3ft. high, having hand- 
some laciniated foliage and 
large heads of bluish flowers, 
produced during July, August, 
and September ; the bracts, 
<&:c., are also blue. 

Gaillardias are exceed- 
ingly handsome border plants, 
having large showy flowers, 
which are much valued for 
the making of bouquets and 
the decoration of vases. They 
may be propagated by either 
seeds, cuttings, or division. 
G. aristata bears large yellow 
flowers during August, and 
attains a height of i8in. 
The varieties graiidiflora and 
maxima are strong-growmg 
plants with larger flowers than 
the type. An endless variety 
of named sorts are now sent 
out by nurserymen, and in point of beauty these far exceed 
the plants mentioned above. A selection of these will be found 
in the " Appendix." 

Galega officinalis coAfpACTA is a neat-growing perennial, 
attaining a height of from 2ft. to 3ft. It is a free-flowering 
plant, producing numerous racemes of pea-shaped lilac-coloured 
flowers from July to September. 

Geums are showy perennials suitable for the mixed border ; 
the flowers are very rich in colour, and are excellent for cutting 
purposes. Propagation is effected by seeds or by division. 




272 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



G. chilo'cnse (syn. G. coccineiwi) grows 2 ft. high, and bears 
numerous bright scarlet flowers from May to September ; the variety 
grandifloruni plenum has large semi-double flowers. Heldreichii 
(ift.), orange-red, is a recent addition that should not be omitted. 

Gypsophila paniculata is a striking plant of gauze-like 
appearance, and worthy of a place in the best herbaceous border. 
It forms a dense mass, 2ft. high, and during July and the late 

summer is covered with myriads of 
small whitish flowers, which are 
invaluable for cutting purposes. 

Harpalium. — See Helianthus. 

Heleniums are valuable com- 
posite plants for back positions 
in mixed borders, or for planting 
in shrubberies ; they have large 
yellow flowers, which remain in 
full beauty for a long time, and 
are therefore much in demand 
for cutting. Increased by seeds 
or by division. H. autumnale 
grows 3ft. high, and flowers 
during July, August, and 
September ; the golden- 
yellow flowers, which are 
3in. across, are produced in 
abundance. The variety grandi- 
fiorum is similar in habit to the 
type, but has much larger flowers. 
H. Bolanderi grows 2^ft. high, 
and is a showy plant producing 
rich yellow flowers with dark 
brown disks. It flowers in July 
and August. H. Hoopesii is a 
grand border plant, 2ft. high, and 
bearing clustered heads of bright 
yellow flowers, each of which is 
2in. across. 

Fig. 156. — Helianthus 

MULTiFLORus. Helianthus (Sunflowcr). This 

genus contains several showy 
perennials suitable for the back of the herbaceous border or for 
shrubberies, «&:c. Increased by seeds or by division. H. midti- 
flonis (Fig. 156) is an old garden plant with large yellow flow^ers ; it 
reaches a height of 4ft., and flowers from July to September. 
The plant generally grown in gardens is the double or\e—Jiore- 
pleno. H. rigidits, formerly known as Harpalium rigidum^ is a 
well-known and attractive plant, growing from 3ft. to 4ft. high, 




ON h:\rdy herbaceous perennials. 273 

and flowering from July to September ; the flowers are bright 
yeUow, with dark disks, and are upwards of 4in. across. 

Heliopsis LiEvis is a handsome composite plant, suitable for 
the back of the flower border ; it grows from 3ft. to 6ft. high, 
and produces terminal heads of deep orange-yellow flowers from 
July to September. 

Hesperis matronalis (Rocket, or Dame's Violet) is a 
free-flowering plant, suitable for the mixed border. It has 
whitish or purplish flowers, produced in June and July. The * 
variety fio7'e-pleno is 
the old double white 
Rocket. Increased by 
seeds, cuttings, or 
division. 

Heuchera san- 
guinea (Alum Root) 
is a splendid plant 
for borders and rock- 
work. It grows from 
9in. to i8in. high, 
and produces long 
graceful spikes of crim- 
son-scarlet flowers 
from June to 
August. These, 
when seen in a 
mass, in full sun- 
shine, produce a 
dazzling effect. 
The flowers are 
invaluable for cut- 
ting purposes. In- 
creased by seeds 
or by division. 

Inulas are well- 
known composites with large showy yellow flowers, suitable 
for borders, shrubberies, wild gardens, &c. Increased by seeds 
or by division. Inula glandulosa (Fig. 157) is a plant which 
is greatly ' admired. It grows about 2ft. in height, is 
of neat habit, and during July and August produces large 
golden-yellow flowers 4in. across. /. Heleniiim (Elecampane) 
is a strong-growing species, from 3ft. to 5ft. high, producing 
large leaves and gigantic heads of showy yellow flowers. Its 
flowering period is from July to September. /. Hookeri grows 
from I ft. to 2 ft. high, and bears large yellow flowers during 
August and September. 

Larkspurs. — See Delphiniums. 

T 




274 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING, 



Lathyrus is a large genus of the Pea family, and comprises 
numerous perennial, as well as annual, plants. The perennials 
are handsome climbers, suitable for growing over pyramids of 
twiggy sticks in the mixed border, or for trailing over trellises, 
verandahs, &c. Increased by seeds or by division. L. laiifolius 
(syn. L. sylvestris platyphyllus) is the Perennial Pea. It grows 

from 5 ft. to 6ft. high, 
and produces its flowers 
from July to September. 
They are of a bright rose 
colour, and are much 
valued for cutting pur- 
poses. Several varieties 
are also grown, including 
albiis^ with white, and 
splendens^ with rosy-car- 
mine, flowers, borne in 
large clusters. Z. rotii7i- 
difolius grows i8in. high, 
and has beautiful rose- 
coloured flowers. It is 
an excellent plant for the 
rock garden or for stony 
banks. 

LiATRis (Blazing Star) 
is a genus of North 
American plants, of easy 




Fig. ik8. — Liatris spicata. 



culture in 
garden soil, 
increased by 
division. L. 
158) is the 



any good 
They are 
seeds or by 
spicata (Fig. 
best of the 



genus, and produces long spikes of purple flowers during August 
and September. It grows from ift. to 2ft. high, and forms 
an excellent border plant. 

LiNARiAS are handsome annual and perennial plants, of easy 
culture, suitable for front positions in the border. The peren- 
nials are increased by seeds or by division. L. triorjiithophora 
grows I Sin. high, and produces purple flowers with yellow 
throats, generally three together, in a whorl, like three birds 
perched on a spur. The flowering season is from June to 



September, 
obtained will 



If seeds are sown early 
flower the same summer. 



in spring, the plants so 



LiNUMS (Alpine Flaxes) are excellent plants for the border. 
Propagated by seeds or by cuttings. L. pere7i7ie is the best of 
the genus, light and elegant in habit, and very effective, whether 
grown in mixed borders or in the rock garden. It reaches a 



ON HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 



height of i8in., and from June to August produces an abundance 
of beautiful pale blue flowers of a shade of colour not often 
met with. 

LupiNUS (Lupin) is a genus of the Pea family. The 
species form very effective border plants, with elegant racemes 
of flowers, highly prized for cutting. Increased by seeds or by 
division. L. nootkatensis is a handsome plant growing i8in. 
high, and producing racemes of dark blue flowers, mixed with 
purple, white, or yellow. Its flowering period is from May to 
July. L. polyphyllus grows 3ft. high, and flowers from June to 
September. The flowers are very showy, bluish-purple in colour, 
and arranged in whorls on a handsome spike. Although one 
of the commonest, it is one of the best of the Lupins, and 
forms an excellent subject for the mixed border. The flowers 
are also used for indoor decoration. 

Lychnis. — In this we have a genus of showy, free-flowering 
subjects, of easy culture, suitable for the mixed border. Propa- 
gated by seeds or by division. L. chalcedonica grows 3ft. high, 
and produces large heads of dazzling scarlet flowers from June 
to August. A white variety, and one with double flowers, are 
also grown. L. coronaria grows from 2ft. to 3ft. high, and 
during July bears red flowers, which are much prized for cutting 
purposes. The varieties graiidiflora and hybrida sple?ide7is are 
well worth growing. L. Haageana grows ift. high, and flowers 
from June to August ; it is a very showy plant, bearing large 
scarlet flowers, 2in. across. Numerous varieties are now grown 
with flowers embracing almost every shade of colour, from 
brilliant scarlet to pure white ; these are valuable subjects for 
select positions in the mixed border or for beds. Z. Viscaria 
splendens florepleno is one of the showiest of our dwarf hardy 
perennials, and suitable alike for the mixed border or for 
forming beds in the flower garden. It grows from i2in. to i8in. 
high, and flowers from June to August ; the rich rosy-crimson 
flowers are large and double, and closely arranged on erect wiry 
stems, after the fashion of the flowers of a Stock. 

Malva moschata (Musk Mallow) is a favourite border 
perennial, growing 2ft. high, and producing an abundance of 
fragrant rose-coloured flowers, 2in. across. Its flowering period 
is from June to August. A white variety is also grown. These 
are wonderfully effective border plants, and the flowers are 
suitable for cutting. Increased by seeds or cuttings. 

MiMULUS (Monkey Flower). — In this genus are several 
herbaceous perennials which delight in warm, damp positions, 
and are deserving of culture in mixed borders, vases, or hanging 
baskets. They are noted for their richly-marked and brightly- 
coloured flowers. Increased by seeds, cuttings, or division. 
M. cardinalis is a profuse-flowering species, reaching a height of 



276 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



i8in. ; the flowers in the typical plant are of a bright scarlet 
colour, but other forms are grown with various coloured flowers, 
some being crimson, others flesh-coloured, orange, yellow, &c. 
Flowers from June to August. M. moschatus (Musk) is a well- 
known plant, growing 6in. high, and producing small yellow 
flowers from June to September ; it is very sweet-scented, and 
on this account is largely grown in the conservatory and sitting- 
room. The variety known as Harrisonii is also a popular 
favourite ; it has larger flowers, and grows much stronger than 
the type. 

MoNARDA DiDYMA (Bcrgamot or Oswego Tea) is an attractive 
plant for the mixed border, being particularly effective when 
grown in a mass ; it reaches a height of 2ft. or 3ft., and its 
foliage is sweetly scented. Its flowers, which are borne in whorls, 
are bright crimson, whilst the bracts are also tinged with red. 
Flowers from June to August. 

MoRiNA LONGIFOLIA is a handsomc border plant, with deep 
green Thistle-like foliage, and spikes of flowers in crowded whorls. 
In the bud state the flowers are white; when they open they 
change to a delicate pink, and afterwards assume a crimson 
colour. As flowers in all three stages are to be found on the 

same whorl, at 
the same time, 
a very pretty 
eflect is pro- 
duced. It grows 
2ft. high, and 
flowers during 
June and July. 
Propagated by 
careful divi- 
sion. 

CEnotheras 
(Evening Prim- 
roses) are most 
attractive and 
free - flowering 
plants, ranging 

in height from 
Fig. 159. — CEnothera c^spitosa. ^ ^^^^ inches 

to 3ft. or 4ft., 

and yielding large showy flowers, which are closed during 
the day and open in the evening. They are suitable 
subjects for the mixed herbaceous border, or for shrubberies, 
wild gardens, &c. The perennials are increased by either seeds, 
cuttings, or division. CE. ccespitosa (Fig. 159), known also as 
CE. eximia and CE. jnarginata^ is a dwarf-growing species, 6in. to 




ON HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 



277 



12'm. high, and bearing large snowy-white flowers, deliciously 
fragrant, and changing witli age to a dehcate rose-colour. It 
increases rapidly by means of underground shoots. Flowers 
from July to September. CE. Fraseri^ a variety of CE. glauca, 
forms a bushy plant, i8in. high; it is a beautiful plant, with 
reddish stems and dark foliage, speckled with yellow. Its flowers 
are yellow, and are produced in abundance from June to 
September. CE. speciosa is a grand border plant, attaining a 
height of from ijft. to 3ft., and producing a succession of large 
fragrant flowers, 2in, across, from June to September; when they 
first open they are pure white, but as they grow older they 
assume a reddish hue. 

Orobus (Bitter Vetch). — These are small plants, formerly 
kept up as a distinct genus, but now included under that of 
Lathyrus. They differ from the plants generally known as 
Lathyrus in having no tendril at the end of the leaf. Increased 
by seeds or by division of the root-stock. O. luteus (now 
known as Lathyrus 7}iontamis) is an elegant bushy plant, growing 
from i^ft. to 2ft. high, and producing numerous racemes of 
bright yellow flowers during the month of June. O. vermis 
{^Lathyrus vermis) (Spring Vetch) is a showy plant, growing ift. 
high, and forming compact tufts of light green foliage. The 
flowers are borne in racemes during April and May, and are of a 
rich blue or purple colour. A white variety is also in cultivation. 

PiEONiA is a large and well-known genus of hardy perennials, 
suitable for either beds or the mixed border; they are of easy 
culture, and delight in a good loamy soil, enriched with plenty of 
farmyard manure. Their flowering period is during May and 
June. Increased either by seeds or by division. P. albiflora is a 
handsome species, growing from 2ft. to 3ft. high, and bearing 
large white flowers. P. aii07)iala has beautifully cut foliage and 
solitary crimson flowers. P. arietina grows 2ft. high, and has 
dark red flowers. P. decora has purple flowers ; it grows from 
2ft. to 3ft. high. P. officinalis has large red flowers ; several 
varieties of it are in cultivation. P. temiifolia grows from i^ft. 
to 2ft. high, has graceful feathery foliage, and dark crimson 
flowers ; the variety flore-pleno differs only in having double 
flowers. The genus has been largely worked upon by the 
hybridist, with the result that there are now innumerable named 
garden forms in cultivation. A selection of these will be found 
in the "Appendix." 

Papaver (the Poppy genus) contains several hardy perennials 
of easy culture in ordinary garden soil. Propagated by seeds or by 
division. P. orie^itale (Giant Oriental Poppy) is an old-fashioned 
border-plant, growing 3ft. high, and producing its flowers from 
May to August. It is a very showy plant, with enormous 
crimson-scarlet flowers, upwards of 6in. across. There is a dark 



278 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



blotch at the base of each petal. 
Fig. 1 60), sometimes described as 
charming plant, differing from the 






Its variety {P. hracieatiim^ 
a distinct species, is also a 
type in having deep blood- 
crimson flowers, but 
with the characteristic 
black blotch at the base 
of each of the 
petals. Numerous 
named forms of 
the Oriental Poppy 
are now grown ; 
their bold aspect, 
and large 
flowers in all 
of crimson and 
them magnificent plants for 
borders, shrubberies, wild 
(S:c. P. pilosum is a distinct 
upwards of 2 ft. 
It has woollv foliaofe, and 
bears numerous flowers of a peculiar 
brick-red colour. Each petal has a 
white mark at the base. Its time 
of flowering is from May to July. 



showy 
shades 
scarlet. 



render 
mixed 
gardens, 
species, 
in height 



growmg 



Pentstemon barbatus (syn. 
Chelone harbatd) is a showy plant, 
bearing spikes of attractive 
scarlet flowers. It grows 
upwards of 3ft, high, and 
flowers from June to Sep- 
tember, or even later. It 
is an excellent plant for the 
mixed border or for forming 
beds in the flower-garden. 
Easily increased by seeds 
or by cuttings. Numerous 
florists' varieties of Pentste- 



mons are 
gardens. 



now grown in 
See "Appendix." 



Phlox is a 



genus 



tammg 



con- 
several annual as 
well as perennial plants, 
many of which are very 
effective in flower-beds and 
borders. They are easily 
propagated by either seeds, cuttings, or division. P. pa?iiculata 
grows 3ft. high, and produces large terminal panicles of pink. 



Fig. 160. — Pap AVER bracteatum. 



ox HARDY HERBACEOUS PEREXXIALS. 



279 



purple, or white flowers during August. P. pilosa is an elegant 
species, growing from i2in. to i8in. high, and bearing lilac-purple 
flowers on slender, erect stems, during May and June. The 
genus is one which has lent itself admirably to the hand 
of the hybridist, with the result that we have now an 
endless variety of " florists' " forms, derived chiefly from P. 
maailata, P. pa7iiciilata^ and P. glaberrijna siiffriiticosa. 
Some excellent kinds are : Avalanche, white, 2ft. ; Leonardo 
da A'inci, white, 2|ft. ; Jourdan, rose-pink, i^ft. ; "William 
Eobinson, cerise, 3ft. ; Etna, orange-red, 2ft. ; Moliere, salmon- 
pink, 2ft. ; Eugene Danzanvilliers, soft lilac, ift. For a more 
extended list, see "Appendix." 

Phygelius capexsis (Cape Figwort) is an attractive plant, 
growing 2^ ft. high, and producing tubular scarlet flowers on 
pyramidal spikes during August and September. Increased by 
seeds or by cuttings. Prefers a sheltered situation. 

Physalis is a small genus containing two or three ornamental 
perennials suitable for growing in the front of the herbaceous 
border. They are easily increased by division. P. Alkekengi 
(Winter Cherry, or Chinese Lantern) grows from i2in. to 
I Sin, high, and bears numerous inconspicuous white flowers, 
succeeded in autumn by scarlet berries, enclosed in the inflated 
orange-scarlet calyx, ' P. pj-ajichetti is a very ornamental species, 
tafler growing than P. Alkekengi, and producing a larger bladder- 
like calyx of a bright orange-red colour. The fruits enclosed in 
the inflated calyx are useful for winter decoration when they are 
cut and dried. 

PoLEMOXiUMS are free-flowering plants, suitable for border or 
rock-culture, and are readily propagated by seeds or by division. 
P. cceriileum, commonly known as Jacob's Ladder, grows from 
ift. 'to 2ft. high, and bears heads of blue flowers from ]\Iay to 
July, Several varieties are now grown, including one with 
variegated foliage, and another with white flowers. P. hi?nalay- 
amun is a bold-growing plant, 2ft. high, having fern-like foliage, 
and large heads of azure-blue flowers with yellow eyes. 
P. repians is a neat-growing species, 6in. to 12 in. high, 
with a creeping rootstock ; it has graceful foliage, and pro- 
duces an abundance of pale blue flowers during April and 
]\Iay. 

Polygonums are plants of easy culture in ordinary garden 
soil, and are readfly increased by division. P. polystadiyum 
is a strong-growing species, reaching a height of 5ft., and 
having fragrant white flowers ; it is suitable for naturalising 
in the shrubbery or wild garden. P. vaccinifolium is a 
trailing species ; it produces long spikes of rose-coloured flowers 
in the autumn. 



28o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



PoTENTiLLAS (Cinquefoils) are free-flowering plants, of easy 
culture in the mixed border. Readily increased by seeds or by 
division. P. a?-g}rophyUa^ known also as insignis^ is an 
excellent border-plant, attaining a height of 2ft. ; it has fine 
silvery foliage, and yellow flowers lin. in diameter. The variety 
at?'Osangia?iea has dark crimson flowers, produced from May 
onwards during the summer. F. nepalensis (syn. P. fo?'mosa) is 
a plant growing from i8in. to 2ft. high, and yielding an 
abundance of flowers from June to August ; they are rosy- 
pink in colour, with dark centres. This is an excellent 
plant for the mixed border or for back positions in the 
rock garden. Numerous florists' varieties are also grown {see 
" Appendix ''). 

Pyrethrums are effective border plants, thriving in any good 
srarden soil. Thev are now included under CJu-ysajithemum. 

Easily increased by either 
seeds, cuttings, or division. 
P. pa?'th€?iifoLiuni aureum is 
well known under the name 
of Golden Feather," and 
is largely used in summer - 
bedding arrangements, as 
described in the Chapter 
"On Bedding Plants. '' P. 
Pa?'the?iium (Common Fever- 
few) is a fine border plant, 
growing 2ft. high, and pro- 
ducing its white flowers with 
yellow disks during Ji^ne. 
The whole plant has a very 
strono; smell. Its varietv 
flo?'e-ple7io is a handsome 
plant, and difl'ers only in 
having double white flowers. 
P. 7'oseu7n is a plant, growing 
from ift. to 2ft. high, and 
flowering during June and July ; the florets of the disk are yellow, 
whilst those of the ray are rose-coloured. P. ?'Oseum floi-e-pieiio 
(Fig. 161) grows upwards of 2ft. high, and produces an abundance 
of showTy^ semi-double rose-coloured flowers, which are grreatlv 
prized for cutting purposes. P. Tchihatchewii (Russian Daisy) 
is a valuable plant for dry banks and slopes, or for growing 
under trees, in which position it retains its green colour, even 
during dry weather. The leaves are very much divided ; the 
stems grow 9in. high, and bear small white flowers with yellow 
disks. P. iiligi7iosiu?i (see Chrysa7ithe77iu77i uUgi7iosu77i). A large 
number of florists' varieties of Pyrethrums are now in cultiva- 
tion, and these form splendid subjects for the mixed border. 




Fig. .161. — PviLETHiirM roseum 
FLOS.E-PLEX0. 



ox HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 



281 



RoMNEYA CouLTERi (Californian Bush Poppy) is a very 
charming plant, delighting in a warm, sunny position, and a 
light, deep soil. It grows from 2ft. to 4ft. high, and has 
deeply-cut foliage of a 
glaucous hue. The 
flowers are snowy- white, 
and Poppy-like in ap- 
pearance (Fig. 162), 
often 4in. to 6in. across, 
with crinkled petals and 
golden-yellow stamens. 

RuDBECKiAS (Cone 
Flowers) are showy, 
free-flowering, composite 
plants, suitable for back 
positions in the mixed 
border, or for growing 
in semi-wild situations, 
&c. I'he flowers are 
prized for cutting pur- 
poses. Increased either 
by seeds or by divi- 
sion. R. californica is 
a noble plant with large 
plantain-like leaves, and 
golden - yellow flowers, 
having brown Acorn-like 
centres. It grows from 
4ft. to 6ft. high, and 
flowers during July, 
August, and September. 
R. Jaci?iiata has stems 
which are deeply cut. The flowers are yellow, and have 
a dark conical disk. R. I. Jlore-pleno is a very fine double 
form of the above, wich long, graceful, branching stems, 




Fig. 162. — RoMNEYA Coulteri. 



;ft. 



or 



6 ft. 



high. 



and 



large 



leaves. 



and beautiful vellow flowers. 



having 



rather 



long 



petals. 



R. maxii)ia is a vigorous-growling plant, upwards of 7ft. in height, 
which from July to September bears large yellow flowers, with 
black disks. The flowers are 3in. or 4in. across. R. speciosa^ 

of the handsomest in the 
ft. high, and producing 
season of 



known also as R. JXewnianii, is one 
whole genus, growing from 2ft. to 
large yellow flowers with black disks, 
is July and August. 



Its 



flowering 



Senecio is a genus of composite plants of annual, biennial, 
and perennial duration, and of easy culture in any ordinary 
garden soil. The perennials are readily increased by means of 
seeds, cuttings, or division of the old plants. A good many 



282 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



of them are weedy subjects, but the two following, along with a 
few others, might with advantage find a place in the mixed 
border. S. doronicum forms a dense mass of dark green foliage, 
and bears large golden-yellow flowers on stems i2in. high; these 
are produced from June to August, and are very showy and 

useful for cutting. .S". pidchcr (Fig. 
163) is a handsome border-plant, 
flowering in the late autumn ; it 
has purplish-crimson flowers with 
yellow disks, borne on a branched 
flower-stem. It grows about 2ft. 
high. 

SiDALCEAS are free-flowering showy 
plants, suitable for the mixed border. 
S. Candida grows from 2ft. to 3ft. 
high, and flowers from June to 
August ; the flowers are pure white, 
and are borne in long terminal 
racemes. S. Listeri is a showy 
perennial of recent introduction ; it 
grows about 3ft. high, and from 
July to September bears an abun- 
dance of satiny-pink flowers, with 
beautifully-fringed sepals. S. 
7nalvceflora produces racemes of 
rosy-purple flowers on stems i-|ft. 
high. 

SoLiDAGO (Golden Rod). — 
This genus contains several 
coarse-growing plants, suitable for 
naturalising in semi wild parts of 
the garden, or for back positions in the mixed border. Increased 
by seeds or by division. 6^. ?'iigosa (syn. S. altissiuid) grows from 
4ft. to 5ft. high, and bears yellow flowers from July to October. 
S. Virgaurea 7iana is a dwarf and compact form of the common 
Golden Rod, suitable for the mixed border; it grows 2ft. high, 
and bears golden-yellow flowers in late autumn. S. cajiadensis, 
S. gigantea^ S. grandifiora^ Szc, are advertised in nurserymen's 
catalogues ; they are coarse-growing plants, reaching a height 
of 4ft. or 5ft., and bearing large yellow flowers. 

Spir^as (Meadow Sweets) are plants of easy culture, very 
ornamental when grown in mixed borders, shrubberies, or in 
moist situations, such as the margins of lakes, ponds, &:c. 
They are readily increased by division. S. Aru7icus (Goat's 
Beard) (Fig. 164) is a majestic plant, growing from 3ft. to 5ft. 
high, and producing long feathery plumes of white flowers during 
June and July. ^S. astilboides is an excellent plant for either pot 




Fig. 163. — Sexecio pulcher. 



ON HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 



283 



or border culture ; it grows upwards of 3ft. high, and from June 
to August produces dense plumes of feathery white flowers. The 
variety floribiinda is rather 
dwarf in habit, but bears 
larger plumes. S. Filipendula 
Hore-pleno (Double Dropwort) 
is a low-growing plant with 
fern-like foliage and branch- 
ing panicles of creamy-white 
•double flowers, which are 
suitable for cutting. It 
reaches a height of 2 ft., and 
is to be seen at its 
best during June and 
July. S. pahnata (Fig. 
165) is a hand- 
some plant, de- 
lighting in marshy 
ground, near the 
banks of streams, 
ponds, &c., and 
also growing luxu- 
riantly in damp, 
shady borders ; 
it grows 2ft. 
high, and bears 
large heads of 
crimson flowers 
from June to 
August. A 
white variety 
is also grown. 
S. Ulmaria 
(Common 
Meadow- 
sweet) is a 
plant enjoy- 
ing similar 
situations to 
the last-men- 
tioned spe- 
cies ; it grows 

2ft. and upwards in height, and yields heads of white flowers 
from June to August. The variety flore-ple?io has sweet-scented 
double white flowers, whilst aurea or mireo-variegata has golden 
variegated foliage and creamy-white flowers. 

Statice is a genus of very graceful plants suitable for the 
rockery or mixed border. S. Ginelini grows from i^ft, to 2ft. 




Fig. 164. — Spir.^ia Aruncus. 



284 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



being 




high, and produces 
spreading panicles of 
small dark blue flowers. 
S. latifolia (Great Sea 
Lavender) grows up- 
wards of 2^ft. high, 
and forms large heads 
nearly 2ft. across, com- 
posed of deep lavender 
blue flowers ; these are 
invaluable for winter 
decoration, as they last 
for months after 
cut. ,5. Limonhim 
also grows about 
2ft. in height, and 
yields panicles of 
deep blue flowers. 
S. spathidata and 
S. tatarica are 
described under 

"Rock Plants." ^ o 

Fig. 165. — Spijeuea palmata. . 

Thalictrums are 
ornamental plants, of easy culture. Propagated by seed or by 
division. T. aqiiilegifoliiini is a fine decorative plant, having large 

feathery heads of 
white or cream-coloured 
flowers, and foliage re- 
minding one of that of 
the Columbine. It grows 
from 2ft. to 3ft. high, 
and flowers during June 
and July. 

ThERMOPSIS MON- 
TANA (syn. T. fab- 
aced) (Fig. 166) is 
an attractive plants 
growing 2 ft, high, 
and flowering during 
June and July ; the 
yellow Lupin - like 
flowers are borne in 
terminal racemes. 
It is best propagated 
by seeds, as the 
roots do not stand 
division well. 




Fig. 166.— Thermopsis Montana. 



ON HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS. 



285 



Tradescantia virginica 
(Common Spiderwort) is a 
showy plant with purplish-blue 
flowers. It grows upwards of 
2ft. high, and produces its 
flowers from jNIay onwards. It 
is suitable for mixed borders 
or for naturalising in shrub- 
beries, wild gardens, woodland 
walks, &c. Several varieties are 
also grown, and are readily in- 
creased by division. 

Trollius (Globe Flower) is 
a genus of elegant border plants, 
with luxuriant foliage and hand- 
some yellow flowers. They prefer 
rather moist situations. Pro- 
pagated by seeds or by division 
of the old plants in the autumn. 
T. asiaticiis o;rows from ift. to 
2ft. high, and produces bright 
orange-coloured flowers during 
May and June. T. europoeiis (Common 
from i2in. to i8in. high, produces large 





Fig. 168. — Veronica longifolia subsessilis. 



Fig. 167. — Trollius Orange Globe. 



Globe Flower) growls 
globular pale yellow 
flowers from 
April to June, 
and is an ex- 
cellent subject 
for naturalising 
near ponds 
or streams. 
Orange Globe 
(Fig. 167) is 
a beautiful 
variety, with 
golden - yellow 
flowers, and 
grows 2 ft. high. 

Veronicas 
(Speedwells) 
are fine border 
plants, easily 
cultivated in 
any ordinary 
garden soil. 
The herba- 
ceous peren- 
nial kinds may 



286 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



be increased by either seeds or by division. Veronica gentia- 
7ioides grows from gin. to i8in. high, and produces long racemes 
of pale blue or violet-coloured flowers during ]May and June. 
There is also a white-flowered variety, and one with variegated 
leaves. V. longifolia grows about 2ft. high, and bears racemes 
of lilac or blue flowers from July to September. Several varieties 
are in cultivation; the one known as subsessilis (Fig. 168) is an 
extremely pretty border-plant, growing from 2ft. to 4ft. high, 
having serrated leaves and long massive spikes of beautiful blue 
flowers. V. spicata is a good border-plant, producing dense 
spikes of bright blue flowers upwards of 3in. long. It grows 
from 9in. to i8in. high, and flowers during July and August. 




Statice tataeica. 



J.M.ABBOXX. Rock Plants. 

Typical rock plants are such as are found in the mountainous 
regions of the earth, and these are invariably subjects of dwarf 
stature : the plants now grown in rock gardens, however, include 
not only those above mentioned, but also dwarf species coming 
from much lower elevations. At the present day the beautj' of 
this very interesting and popular class of plants is too well 
known to need comment. 

Although numerous alpines may be grown in the open border 
without a particle of rock near them, yet they succeed much 
better in the rock garden ; whilst for the cultivation of the rarer 
kinds a well-constructed rockery is absolutely essential, and the 
effect of such a one tastefully arranged is delightful in garden 
scenery. 

In choosing a site it must be borne in mind that a free, airy, 
somewhat-elevated position is best, as many alpines, and 
especially the rarer kinds, are difficult to keep through the 
winter on level, wet soils. The site and extent will, however, 
depend largely on the surroundings and on the number of 
plants intended to be grown. If an elevated position cannot be 
obtained, and the rock garden has to be formed in a more or 



288 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING, 



less flat situation, it is best done by cutting a path through the 
middle of the intended rockery, throwing the soil up on each 
side so as to form mounds and depressions. When the rough 
outline has thus been formed, and the bulk of soil placed in 
position, it must be left for several weeks to solidify before the 
rockwork is used. The quality of this foundation soil is 
immaterial so long as it is sufficiently porous to allow of the 
free passage of water through it ; nevertheless, if this soil is good, 
so much the better for the plants, as many of them are deep- 
rooting subjects, and their roots will descend beyond the 
prepared soil placed in the crevices between the rocks. 

Natural stone is to be preferred when it can be procured, 
and the kind used will depend upon that found in the neigh- 
bourhood, as it will be expensive to convey it from a distance. 
If limestone is obtainable, it should be used, as this gives a very 
artistic appearance to the rock garden. In some districts it is 
impossible to obtain natural stone of any description, and when 
this is the case the use of artificial stone has to be resorted 
to. This may be made as rough as possible out of brick-rubble 
and concrete. Carved stones of all kinds should be avoided. 
The object of the rock is to assist in keeping the roots moist, 
to help in their healthy development, to prevent undue evapora- 
tion from the soil, to form the framework of the rockery, and at 
the same time to provide picturesque growing sites for the 
plants. 

In making rock gardens, and in disposing of the rocks, it is 
usual to imitate Nature, but it must be borne in mind that the 
plants are, or ought to be, the first consideration, and suitable 
positions must be formed for their reception. The rocks should 
stand out boldly here and there so as to give variation to the 
scene, as w^ell as to provide various aspects for the plants. In 
arranging steep rockwork each piece of stone should slightly 
recede from the one below it, so that the rain falling on 
the face of the rocks may find its way into the intervening 
fissures, and thus supply the roots of the plants with moisture. 
These fissures must be filled with soil when the rockwork is 
being built up, so that the plants may have an abundance of 
soil in which to grow. In arranging ordinary rockwork, pockets 
and crevices should be left of sufficient size to admit of plenty 
of soil, and these should be filled with the kind suitable for the 
particular plants intended to be grown therein. Some alpines, 
including the rarer ones, delight in narrow crevices, but in all 



ON ROCK PLANTS. 



289 



cases the soil in these crevices, or fissures, should be in connec- 
tion with the bulk underneath, so that the roots may descend 
to any depth. Vertical crevices should always be narrower at 
the bottom than at the top, so that when the soil settles down 
it will fall against the sides of the rocks without leaving hollows. 

A few alpines, such as the thick, fleshy-leaved Sempervivums, 
will hold on almost to the bare rock and grow with very little 
soil, but these are the exception : the majority prefer a deep-rooting 
medium, so that the roots may run down by the sides of the 
rocks to a good depth ; they are thereby kept cool and moist, and 
are better able to withstand the occasional droughts experienced 
during our variable summers. Many of them are not fastidious 
as to soil, and a good turfy loam intermixed with plenty of 
smashed sandstone to keep it porous will be found suitable for 
the majority of kinds. Of course those requiring special mixtures 
can easily be supplied by filling up the spaces set apart for them 
with the kind of soil needed, instead of with the ordinary soil. 

Great difficulty is often experienced in keeping through the 
winter plants which have their leaves covered with " down," such 
as the silky-leaved Androsaces, for the water collects in the down 
and rots them away. With such subjects it is a good plan 
to plant them so as to be overhung by ledges of rock; or they 
might be planted in a dry, airy situation, and have squares of glass 
elevated over them during the winter, so as to keep off the rain. 
The majority of alpines prefer a position fully exposed to the sun ; 
such situations suit the rare and minute species, whilst a stony 
surface is also beneficial, for the particles of stone prevent 
excessive evaporation and tend to keep the roots cool and moist. 
A well-constructed rockery should provide all aspects, so that 
both sun- and shade-loving plants may be accommodated. A 
knowledge of the various plants and their requirements is essential 
before suitable positions can be chosen for them. A great point 
is to insert each firmly and right up to the collar of the plant. 

When once planted, the after-management is simple enough, 
and consists mainly in keeping free from weeds, in preventing 
the strong-growing kinds from overrunning and smothering the 
weaker and more diminutive ones, and in giving them an 
abundance of water during hot dry weather in the summer. 
Slugs and mice must also be trapped, or many of the delicate 
little alpines will soon disappear. Plants which raise their collars 
will require top-dressing or replanting annually or they will soon 
become leggy, as is the case with many of the Primulas. 

u 



290 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 




The methods of raising alpines are the same as those practised 
in raising hardy herbaceous perennials, and are mentioned under 
.that heading. 

The following is a good selection of rock plants : 

AcANTHOLiMON GLUMACEUM {Stafice Ararat!) grows from 3in. 
to 6in. high, and bears six to eight rose-coloured flowers in a 
head much after the fashion of the Thrift (Sea Pink). It is of 
tufted habit, forming cushions of dark green prickly foliage. 

Achillea rupestris forms cushions of evergreen fohage, and 
from June to September produces heads of pure white flowers on 

stems 6in. high. A. tomeiitosa (Fig. 
169) is an attractive plant, growing 
from 6in. to 12 in. high, and having 
flat heads of bright yellow flowers. 
A. umbel lata is a fine rock plant, 
6in. high, having silvery foliage and 
heads of white flowers. 

Adonis is a genus of ornamental 
herbaceous plants, suitable alike for 
the rockery or for the mixed border. 
Fig. 169. — Achillea A. pyrenaica is a somewhat rare 

TOMENTOSA. spccics, producing numerous stems 

from i2in. to i8in. high, and forming 
a mass of Fennel-like foliage. The flowers resemble those 
of the Anemone. They are upwards of 2 in. across, of a 
beautiful yellow colour, and are borne in June and July. A. 
vernalis is a handsome plant, growing from 8ih. to i2in. high, 
and bearing large yellow flowers during March and April. 

Alyssum. — -See "Spring-Bedding Plants." 

Androsaces are small, interesting alpines, suitable for either 
rockwork or pot culture. The woolly-leaved species must be 
protected from the rain during winter. Propagation is effected 
by seeds or division. A. carnea forms dense tufts 3in. to 
4in. high, covered with clusters of pink or rose-coloured flowers 
with yellow eyes. A. la?mgi7iosa has greyish foliage on trailing 
stems, and is a suitable subject for planting so that the 
shoots may hang over the face of the rockwork. This has 
also umbels of rose-coloured flowers with yellow centres, borne 
during July and August. A. sarmentosa (Fig, 170) is one of the 
most beautiful of the genus, producing rosettes of downy foliage, 
and large umbels of rose-coloured flowers with white eyes. It 
grovvs about 6in. high, and flowers during May and . June. A 
position in a chink of the rockwork and a sandy loam suit it 
admirably. 



ON ROCK PLANTS. 29 1 

Arabis. — See " Spring-Bedding Plants." 

Arenaria balearica is a handsome, close-growing species, 
suitable for creeping over damp stones. It has dark green 
foliage, and in May and June, when covered with its small 
white star-like flowers, is very attractive. A. graminifolia grows 
about 6in. high, and forms grass-like patches, covered during June 
and July with small white flowers. 

Aster alpinus is a dwarf species, growing Qin. high, and 
flowering in June and July. The flowers, which are useful for 
cutting, are bright 
purple, and upwards 
of 2in. across. 
Several varieties are 
also grown. 

AuBRiETiA. — See 
" Spring - Bedding 
Plants." 

Campanula car- 
PATiCA is suitable 
either for the rock 
garden or for the 
mixed border. It 
grows I ft. high, and 
produces numerous 
light blue flowers 
from May to August. 
Its variety alba has 
pure white flowers, 
and iurbi?iata^ a 
plant growing about 
6in. high, has large 
purplish-blue flowers. 
C. garga?iica pro- 
duces masses of blue flowers with white centres, and is only 
6in. high. G. F. Wilson is a hybrid growing only 3in. high, 
and bearing numerous dark blue salver-shaped flowers from 
June to August. C. pulla is an excellent rock plant, only 
3in. high, and bearing deep purple drooping flowers from May 
to July. C. piisilla grows 6in. high, and produces its pale blue 
flowers' in abundance from May to September. The variety alba 
is also grown. 

Cerastium tomentosum. — See " Spring-Bedding Plants." 

CoRYDALis is a genus of early-flowering plants, suitable either 
for the rockery or for the open border. They are of easy 
.culture, and may be increased by seeds or division. C. capuoides 
is a plant growing from 12 in. to i8in. high, and bearing white 

u 2 




292 



THE BOOK OF GARDEXIXG. 



flowers with yellow markings during July. C. Kolpakoivskyana 
grows about 6in. high, and yields its pink or purple flowers with 
long spurs during April. C. lutea is an excellent species for dry 
situations ; it reaches a height of ift., and bears a profusion of 
yellow flowers during May and June. C. nobilis grows about ift. 
high, and in IMay produces masses of yellow flowers with long 
spurs ; it prefers a moist, shady situation. 

DiAXTHUS (the Pink genus) contains several perennials which 
are very ornamental rock-garden as well as border-plants. They 
are increased by seeds, cuttings (known as pipings), and layers. 
D. alpinus is a charming little alpine, with dark green foliage, 
and large crimson flowers lin. across ; it grows only about 4in. 
high, and flowers in June and July. D. ccBsiiis {D. pulchelliis\ 
the Cheddar Pink, is a plant with glaucous foliage and rosy- 
pink flowers ; it grows from 3in. to 6in. high, and is generally 
in blossom during May and June. D. pluniariiis (Common 
Pink) grows ift. high, and during June and July bear snumerous 
white or pink sweet-scented flowers, fringed at the margin : it 
is from this plant that our garden Pinks have sprung. Other 
dwarf species suitable for the rock garden are D. glacialis and 
D. petrceus, with rose-coloured, and -D. 7i€glectus, with pink 
flowers. 

Drabas are charming spring-flowering plants suitable for the 
rockery. D. aizoides is a pretty alpine, forming compact tufts 

3in. high, and pro- 
ducing bright yellow 
flowers during ]March 
and April. £>. bruiiice- 
folia forms dense, 
moss-like tufts from 
2in. to 4in. high ; it 
also has yellow flowers, 
produced about June. 
D. JIaii'ii (Fig. 171) 
is a dwarf rock plant, 
forming dense tufts of 
foliage, and bearing an 
abundance of pure 
white flowers in spring. 
D. pyre n a tea is a gem, 
growing 3in. high ; the 
flowers, which are 
borne in ^lay, are 
first white, but afterwards change to a soft rose-colour. 

Dryas octopetala is a beautiful alpine, with small, Oak-like 
leaves and large, white, solitary flowers, each with eight petals ; 
it growls only about 3in. high, and flowers in May and June. 




ON ROCK PLANTS 



Edelweiss. — See Leontopodiiiin alpinum 

Epilobium obcordatum is an alpine species suitable for a 
moist position in the rockery ; it grows about 4in. high, and 
from May to July produces an abundance of bright rose-coloured 
flowers upwards of lin. in diameter. 

EpniEDiUMS are useful plants for shady positions, and they 
thrive best in a light peat soil. E. alpinum grows upwards of 
I ft. high, and flowers in May and June. The outer sepals are 
greyish, the inner ones crimson, whilst the petals are of a yellow 
colour; several flowers are borne on the same stem in a loose 
panicle. 

Erinus alpinus is a charming little alpine, suitable for dry 
places in the rockery, whilst it also grows well on old walls. It 
forms compact cushions 3in. 
high, covered during May 
and June with rose or purple 
flowers. 

Erysimum pulchellum is 
a fine plant for a sunny 
position. It grows from 6in. 
to i2in. high, and blossoms 
during May and June. The 
flowers are of a lemon-yellow 
colour, and produced in great 
abundance. 




Erythr^a diffusa grows 
3in. high, and bears br]2;ht 



rose-coloured flowers 
during June and July. 

Galax aphylla 
{Blandfordia cordata) is 
a neat little plant (Fig. 
172), delighting in a 
moist, sandy, peat soil. 
It is an evergreen, wdth 
round, notched leaves, 
w^hich in the autumn 
assume a reddish hue. 

The flower-stems rise to a height of 9in., and bear numerous 
small white flowers in July. It is propagated by division. 

Gentianas are lovely plants for the rockery; the dwarf kinds 
are sometimes used as edging plants, but, unfortunately, in many 
localities they are very shy at flowering. Propagation is effected 
by carefully - made divisions; plants may also be raised from 
seed, but it is a very slow process, especially if the seed is old. 
G. acaults, the Gentianella, forms cushions of glossy -green 



Fig. 172. — Galax aphylla. 



294 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



foliage, and bears 
marks inside ; it 
between March and 
and produces long 



grows 



Fig 



erect bell-shaped flowers with yellow 
from 3in. to 6in. high, and flowers 
June. G, asdepiadea grows i8in. high, 
terminal clusters of purplish-blue flowers 
during July and August. It succeeds in a 
moist, shady situation of either the rockery 
or the open border. A white variety of 
this is also cultivated. G. ve7'na is a gem, 
and in districts where it does well, forms 
dense tufts of glistening green foliage, 
covered with flowers of a brilliant blue 
colour. It grows only 3in. high, and 
flowers in April and ]May. 

Geum montanum (Fig. 173) is an 
excellent rock plant, growing from 6in. 
to i5in. high, and producing an abun- 
dance of golden yellow flowers from 
June to August. 

Gnaphalium leontopodium. — See 
Leo7itopodiiivi alpiniim. 

Gypsophila cerastoides is a dwarf, 
though handsome, rock plant, growing 
3in. to 6in. high, and flowering during May and June : the 
white, veined with pink. Propagated by seeds. 




-Geum 



montanum. 



from 
flowers 
cuttings, or division. 



are 



Iberis. — See 
dins; Plants." 



Spring-Bed- 




Leontopodium alpinum 
( GnaphaliiDn Leontopodium ), 
the Edelweiss, is a remark- 
able alpine, growing 6in. high, 
and producing terminal heads 
of flowers enveloped in white, 
woolly bracts (Fig. 174) in 
June and Jul}^ It should be 
planted in sandy, stony soil, 
in exposed positions. Pro- 
pagation is eff'ected by seeds 
or by careful division of the 
old plants. 

LiNARIA alpina is a 
charming little rock plant of 

neat, trailing habit, growing from 3in. to 6in. high, and flowering 
from June to September. The flowers are of a purple colour, 
with orange centres. 



Fig. 174. 



-Leontopodium alpinu-M. 



ON ROCK PLANTS. 



LiNUiNi FLAVUM is a handsome plant, of neat habit, growing 
from i2in. to i8in. high, and bearing an abundance of showy 
yellow flowers from June to August. 

I.iTHOSPERMUMS are showy rockwork plants. They prefer a 
light, sandy loam, and are easily increased by either seeds, 
cuttings, or division. L. Gastoni is a rare plant from the 
Pyrenees, and now said to be scarce in its native habitat. It 
varies in height from gin. to i8in., and is somewhat shrubby in 
habit. During June and July it produces spikes of bright blue 
flowers, L. graminifolium is a choice alpine, growing from 6in. 
to i2in. high, and bearing clusters of rich blue flowers. L. 
prostratiim is a showy evergreen plant of dwarf habit, producing 



numerous prostrate stems 
ject, yet does fairly well 
in the open border. 
It has flowers of 
a deep blue Gentian- 
like hue, but with red 
or violet stripes. The 
best way to propagate 
it is by cuttings, placed 
in sandy peat in a 
cool frame, in the 
autumn. 

Lychnis alpina 
(Fig. 175) is a charming 
plant, growing 6in. high, 
and yielding clusters of . 
rose-coloured flowers 
during May and June. 
L. Lagascce grows only 
3in. high, and bears 
white centres. It flowers 

Meconopsis 



It is essentially a 



rock-garden 



sub- 




Fig. 17: 



-Lychnis alpixa. 



large 



bright rose-coloured flowers with 



from lune to August. 



CA^iBRiCA, the pretty 



Welsh Poppy, is a 
desirable plant for the rock garden : it grows ift. in height, and 
bears bright yellow flowers on long stems from June to August. 
It is easily grown from seed, and very often establishes itself on 
old walls. Unlike the Himalayan species, it prefers a dry 
situation. 

Megasea. — S(e Saxifraga. 

Mertensia alpina is a lovely alpine, growing from 6in.^ to 
9in. high, and bearing clusters of' light blue flowers. M. sibirica 
is a handsome free-flowering plant, growing from i2in. to i8in. 
high, and producing its purplish-blue flowers from May to July. 
The variety alba has pendent clusters of white flowers. 

MoRisiA HYPOG.EA is a dwarf Sardinian alpine about which 
much has lately been written. It grows only sin. high, and for 



296 



THE BOOK OF GARDEXIXG. 



several weeks in the early summer is covered with clear bright 
yellow flowers ; these are produced singly on short stalks, and are 
much enhanced by the dark, finely-cut foliage. It is an excellent 
subject for a select sunny position in the rockery, and delights 
in a good sandy loam. It may be increased by seeds or by 
division. 

Myosotis (Forget-me-not) is a genus containing several well- 
known perennials suitable for the rock garden or for spring 
bedding. They delight in moist, shady positions. Propagated by 
seeds, by cuttings, or by division. M. alpestris {M. rupicoia), the 
alpine Forget-me-not, is an attractive little plant, growing from 
2in. to 6in. high, and covered during summer with deep blue 
flowers having yellow eyes. M. dissitifloi-a is excellent for spring 
bedding. M. sempei-fioi-ens grows ift. high, and during summer 
and autumn is covered with rich blue flowers. M. sylvatica is a 
profuse spring and early summer flowering species, growing from 
1 2 in. to I Sin. high, and bearing pretty blue flowers with yellow 
throats. 

OENOTHERA MissouRiENsis LATiFOLiA, known also as 
CE. macrocatpa^ is a showy plant growing about 9in. high, and 

bearing large yellow 
flowers, on red trailing 
stems, from June to 
September. 

Omphalodes verxa is 
a spring-flowering plant, 
somewhat resembling a 
Forget-me-not : it grows 
6in. high, and bears 
loose racemes of small 
briUiant blue flowers. It 
is a fine plant for a 
shaded position in the 
rockery, and is also suit- 
able for naturalising in 
the wild garden ; when 
once established it soon 
forms a dense tuft, and 
increases rapidly by 
means of runners. A 
white variety is also in 
cultivation, which, like 
the type, flowers from 
March to June. 

OnOSMA ECHI0IDE5 

(Fig. 176), known also as O. taiirmiin, is a charming evergreen, 
bearing clusters of drooping tubular flowers, on arching stems 




Fig. 176. — Onosma echioides. 



ON ROCK PLANTS. 



297 



ift. high ; the flowers are bright yellow, very fragrant, and are 
produced from May to August. 

Phlox is a genus yielding several dwarf perennial species 
suitable for the rock garden, such as P. amoeiia and jP. subulafa, 

which are treated under " Spring- 




•Fig. 177. — Phyteuma 
Charmelii. 



Bedding Plants." 



Phyteumas are charming plants for 
sunny situations ; they are increased 
by seeds or by division. F. Michelii 
grows 6in. high, and bears heads of 
reddish flowers during June and July. 
P. orbiciilare grows ift. high, and 
produces violet-purple flowers, in 
spherical heads, from June to August. 
P. Scheuchzeri produces blue flowers 
in May, and grows from 6in. to i2in. 
high ; its variety Chainnelii, generally 
known as P. Charmelii (Fig. 177), 
also has blue flowers, in round heads, 
and is an excellent plant for a well-drained position on the rockery. 

Primula is an extensive genus of alpine perennials, con- 
taining many species 
suitable for rock-garden 
culture. Propagation is 
usually efl'ected by 
seeds, though some- 
times the old plants 
may be carefully di- 
vided. P. cortusoides 
produces umbels of 
rose-coloured flowers 
during May; the scapes 
are 9in. high. P. 
deiiticiLlata is a hand- 
some species, thriving 



well in a light moist 
soil. The leaves are 
covered underneath 
.with a white mealy 
substance ; the flowers 
are lilac, and are pro- 
duced in large globular 
heads on scapes up- 
wards of I2in. high. Fig. 178.— Primula marginata. 
Its variety cashmeriana 

is a splendid form, having violet-purple flowers with yellow 
eyes. P. floribunda has small golden-yellow flowers produced 




298 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



in whorls ; the scapes reach a height of from 6in. to Sin. 
F. Japonica, the Japanese Primrose, is a well-known and orna- 
mental species, with massive whorls of rose-coloured flowers 
produced during spring on scapes varying from i2in. to iSin. 
high. It prefers damp and shady places, in which, if planted in 
good rich loam, it will make vigorous growth. F. marginata 
(Fig. 178) has bluish-lilac flowers with mealy centres; it grows 
about 3in. high, and flowers during April and May. F. rosea is 
a charming plant for moist situations ; in early spring it produces 
numerous scapes from 4in. to 6in. high, each terminating in 
a head of bright rose-coloured flowers having yellow eyes. 
F. sikkimensis also delights in damp, shady situations ; it sends 
up strong scapes from ift. to 2ft. high, each bearing a large 
umbel of fragrant, drooping, pale yellow flowers. 



Prunella grandiflora 
bears violet-purple flowers 
and Ausfust. It thrives in 



grows 



from 6in. to i2in. high, and 
in dense terminal spikes during July 
any good light soil, and is suitable 
either for the rockerv or for the 
front of borders. It may easily 
be increased by division of the 
old plants. 

Ramondl\ pyrenaica is a 
charming little alpine suitable for 
damp, shady nooks between the 
rocks ; it prefers a sharp, peaty 
soil. The leaves are borne in 
rosettes, and lie close to the soil; 
they are dark green, crimped, 
and covered with reddish-brown 
hairs. The flower-stalks grow 
5in. or 6in. high, and each 
usually bears two or three 
violet-purple flowers with 
yellow eyes during ]May and 
June. There is also a white 
variety known as alba^ which 
is a handsome plant, though 
somewhat rare. Increased ' by 
seed or by division. 

Saxifraga is a lars-e cremis 
of interesting and ornamental 
perennials adapted for rock- 
garden culture. Increased by offsets or division. The numerous- 
species may be roughly divided into five sections, viz. : 

(i) The Encrusted Section^ comprising plants with rosettes of 
silvery-tufted foliage. To this section belongs ^S. Cotyledon 
(P'ig. 179), a large silvery-leaved kind, sending up a branched 




Fig. 179. — Saxifraga Cotyledon. 



ox ROCK PLANTS. 



299 



pyramidal flower stem, ift. to 2ft. high, and covered from May 
to July with large w^hite flowers. 6". longifoUa has large rosettes 
of silvery leaves, 6in. long, and bears white flowers, dotted with 
red, on much-branched flower-stems ift. high. S. pyramidalis 
is merely a robust variety of S. CotyIedo?i. 

(2) The Mossy Section contains the dense, moss- or 
cushion-like Saxifrages ; of these S. hypnoides and S. inuscoides 
are examples. The former bears small white flowers, on stems 6in. 
to i2in. long, from May to July; the latter, known also as 
S. inoschata^ bears racemes of pale yellow or purple flowers during 
May and June. 

(3) The OppositifoUa Section comprises those with small 
opposite leaves. The typical plant, S. oppositifoLia, has leafy, 
creeping stems, 6in. to Sin. long, and produces solitary bright 
purple flowers during April and May. Its variety pyrenaica 
also has purple flowers, and is an excellent rock-garden plant. 
Several other varieties are also grown. 

• (4) The Roniid- leaved Section includes such kinds as 
S. sarmeniosa, S. umbrosa^ and 6". rotundifolia. The first, how- 
ever, is only half-hardy. S. lunbrosa (London Pride) is a well- 
known plant, sending up a leafless flower-stalk 6in. to i2in. high; 
the flowers, wiiich are borne in a panicled cyme, are white, but 
often spotted with red. 6". rotnndifolia has white flowers marked 
w^ith scarlet dots. 

(5) The Large-leaved Section comprises the species with large 
leaves, commonly known ia gardens as Megaseas. Of these the 
following are best known : S. cordifolia {Megasea cordifolia), with 
large cordate leaves and clusters of bright rose-coloured flowers; 
it growls ift. high, and flxowers from March to May. S. crassifolia 
has large oval leaves, which are fleshy and shining ; in April 
and May it bears clusters of reddish flowers on stalks ift. in 
height. S. {Megasea) puipurascens has large, smooth, purple 
leaves; the flower-stems are i2in. high, and are surmounted with 
clusters of bright purple flowers in June. S. Stracheyi has large 
shining green leaves, and lovely pink flowers upwards of lin. 
across, produced in ]\Iarch and April on stems 9in. high. 

Sedums (Stonecrops) are essentially rock-garden plants, and 
also succeed well on old walls, ruins, &c. Some, such as 
S. glaucum and S. lydium^ are also useful for carpet-bedding. 
They thrive in almost any position, and are easily increased 
either by seeds, by cuttings, or by division. ,5'. acre^ although a 
British plant, is much grown : it sends out numerous barren, 
creeping shoots, from which rise dwarf erect branches bearing 
yellow flowers ; its variety aureuni has the tips of the leaves of a 
bright golden-yellow during the spring. S. album grows 6in. high, 
and produces its cymes of white flowers on pinkish stems 
during June and July. -S'. glaucum grows from 3in. to 4in. high, 
and bears cymes of white flowers. 6". kamtschaticum has prostrate 



300 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Stems, 6in. to Sin. long, of a greenish or purplish colour ; the 
flower-stems are erect, from 4in. to 6in. high, and bear cymes of 
yellow flowers. S. lydiiim produces white flowers in June and 
July; the flowering stems are from 4in. to-5in. long, and the 
barren ones from 2 in. to 3in. S. spectabile is a tall-growing species, 
from i2in. to i8in. high, suitable either for the rockery or for 
the mixed border ; it bears flat-topped cymes of pinkish flowers 
during September. 

Sempervivums (House Leeks) comprise a number of interesting 
rockery plants, very varied in form and flower; they delight in a 
dry, sandy soil, and are easily propagated by off'sets taken from 

the old plants. S. a?'ach- 
^Jh/j\ noideiim bears upwards of 



sixty to eighty leaves closely packed in a rosette; the flower-stems 
are about 6in. high, and bear crimson flowers in June. 

Shortia galacifolia is a beautiful plant for the rock garden. 
It grows from 3in. to 5in. high, and flowers during March and 
April. The flow^ers are large, solitary, and somewhat bell-shaped ; 
the petals are fimbriated at the edge, are first white, but as they 
grow^ older they become tinged with red. The leaves are ever- 
green, long-stalked, and roundish ; at first they are deep green, 
but in late summer they assume a beautiful bronzy-crimson 
hue. 




fifty succulent leaves in a 
rosette, the tips of which 
are connected by long 
white hairs ; the flowering- 
stems are from 3in. to 
4in. long, leafy, and bear 
several pink flowers up- 
wards of I in. in diameter. 
The variety LaggejH (Fig. 
t8o) is a robust form 
of the above, producing 



large rosettes of 
leaves. S. fimhria- 
tum has fifty to sixty 
leaves in a rosette, 
the outer ones 
turning green ; the 
flower - stem rises 
from 6in. to Qin. 
high, and bears 
bright red or purple- 
flowers in July and 
August. S. mon- 
tanum has from 



Fig. 180. — Sempervivum arachnoideum 
Laggeri. 



ON ROCK PLANTS. 



301 



SiLENE is an extensive genus of annual, biennial, and perennial 
plants, some of which are natives of Britain. The perennials 
are propagated either by seeds, cuttings, or by division ; they 
may be grown in the rockery or in the mixed border. S. acaulis^ 
the Cushion Pink, forms moss-like tufts of foliage, 2in. high, 
and covered with numerous pink flowers from June to August. 
-S*. alpestris is a neat little alpine growing from 3in. to 6in. 
high, and producing, during May and June, a sheet of glistening 
white flowers. S. maritima fiore-pletio is a fine rock plant, 
growing 6in. high, and forming prostrate tufts of glaucous 
foliage. It has double white flowers, as large as those of the 
garden Pinks, and produced in abundance from May to August. 
S. Schafta forms a compact bushy tuft, 6in. high, and bears 
numerous rose-coloured flowers during July and August. 

SoLDANELLAS are pretty alpines, thriving best in a peaty soil 
in sheltered corners of the rockery. They may be increased by 
seeds or by division. S. alpina^ the Blue Moonwort, grows 6in. 
high, and bears beautifully-fringed pendent bell-shaped flowers 
durmg April ; they are of a deep purple or violet colour, and 
borne three or four together on each scape ; the leaves are 
small, and round or 
kidney-shaped. kS. mini- 
ma has large fringed 
blue flowers, borne 
singly on scapes 2in. 
or 3in. high during 
April and May. S. 
montaiia grows 3in. 
high, and produces its 
purple flowers, two to 
four on each scape, 
during xA-pril. 

Statice is a genus 
of ornamental plants, 
many of which are 
suitable either for the 
rockery or for the 
mixed border ; they 
produce large heads of 
flowers which are very 
lasting both on the 

plant and when cut. S. ^ y\g. 181.— Tiarella cordifolia. 

spathiilata bears heads 
of purple flowers during 

August, on stems ift. high. S. tatarica produces numerous pink 
flowers on a long, broad panicle ift. high, during July and 
August; the leaves are radical, and from 4in. to 6in. long. 




302 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Symphyandra Wanneri, although a biennial, is a useful rock 
garden plant, having showy Campanula-like blue flowers. It grows 
from 6in. to i2in. high, and is a native of the Alps. It is 
sometimes known as Canipa?uela Wanneri. 

Tiarella cordifolia (Fig. i8i) is a charming plant for the 
rock garden or the front of the mixed border ; it has creeping 
stems, and forms dense masses of dehcate foliage, green at 
first, but afterwards assuming a brownish tint. The stems rise 
from 6in. to i2in. high, and during ]\Iay and June bear 
numerous small, Spirsea-like flowers which, when fully expanded, 
are of a creamy-white colour, but in the bud state are delicately 
tinged with pink. It may be propagated by division. 

Veronica Teucrium (Hungarian Speedwell) bears man}'- 
flowered racemes of light blue flowers in July. The stems are 
from gin. to i2in. long, and form a dense, spreading mass. Its 
variety dubia, known also as V. J)?-ostrafa, is one of the 
showiest of the dwarf herbaceous kinds, and when in flower 
forms an efl'ective rockery plant. It is of prostrate habit, 
forming dense tufts, covered during May and June with bright 
blue flowers. 

Wahlenbergia tenuifolia (Fig. - 182) is a hardy rock plant, 
growing from 3in. to 6in. high, and flowering during June and 
July. The leaves are rather long and narrow ; the flowers are 
violet-purple, white at the base, and are borne from six to ten 
together in a terminal tuft. 




Fig. 182. 



— Wahlenbergia texuifolia. 




By W. D. Drury, 



Bulbs and Tubers. 



First to greet us in the spring, and the last to hnger with us, 
giving to our gardens brightness even in the depth of winter, is 
it any wonder that bulbs and tubers, as ordinarily understood, 
appeal so strongly to hardy plant lovers ? Indeed, having regard 
to the numerous claims that they have upon the gardeners 
attention, the wonder rather would be if they did not have 
such a hold. From the very earliest times bulbs, at any rate, 
have been viewed with favour, as witness the tender, nay, 
almost loving ■ care that was lavished upon them by those 
gardeners of a bygone age like Parkinson. They were amongst 
the first plants that were utilised for the beautification of 
English gardens, and thus for their early associations, if for 
naught else, they are at least entitled to respect. Apart, how- 
ever, from what may be termed the sentimental aspect of the 
question, they have claims, and just ones, upon the attention 
of every practical gardener : their chasteness, or it may be 
their gorgeousness of colouring, their ease of culture, their 
general adaptability, and, in the majority of cases, their 
permanence, entitle them to it. • 

To fully realise the important part they play, and their true 
decorative value, let us for a moment think of our gardens say, 
shorn on the one hand of those spring harbingers the Snow- 
drops, the Crocuses, the ' Scillas, the Snow Glories, the Snow- 
flakes, the Hyacinths, the Tulips, and the lesser known, though 
no less deserving Fritillaries ; or on the other of the Anemones, 
the Winter Aconites, the Cyclamens, and several others. Under 
the most varying conditions of soil, situation, and temperature. 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



they clothe themselves in their gayest apparel. The ways in 
which they may be utilised are as numerous as the plants 
themselves. For beds and borders, the margins of streams, 
the choice parts of the rock garden, the ' shrubbery border, and 
the decoration of window-boxes, they are equally well adapted ; 
and it needs but the exercise of a little taste for a maximum 
of effect to be procured with a minimum of trouble. 

Again, there is a wonderful variety of form, colour, and habit ; 
in fact, so diversified are these characteristics, that one is 
astonished, when noting the effect of such plants as Yucca 
gloriosa or Y. filamentosa in a bed, that they are allies, and 
close allies, of the Lilies of our summer gardens. The botanist, 
of course, knows that they are, but the average gardener cannot 
see how two such dissimilar-looking plants, taken at a cursory 
glance, are brought together by any system of classification. 

Compared with even a very few years ago, these sections of 
hardy plants have increased at a rate that even the most enthu- 
siastic gardener could scarcely have hoped. Not only are our 
collections altogether richer in species and varieties, but to-day 
there flourish in our midst plants whose hardiness would have 
been considered doubtful, to say the least. As evidence of this 
we have but to point to the bold-looking Eremuruses, the inde- 
scribably beautiful Calochorti and Brodiseas, all of which at 
one time were thought to need the shelter of a house. A better 
acquaintance with their requirements has placed the cultivator 
of to-day in a position to grow them without any artificial aids, 
and our gardens are accordingly the richer by their presence. 

Cultivation. — Though soil and situation are important factors 
in the successful cultivation of bulbs and tubers, yet so widely 
different is the geographical distribution of the individuals com- 
prising the groups that it is impossible to lay down hard and 
fast rules in respect of them. What, for instance, would suit 
one bulb would be absolutely fatal to the chances of another, 
and the peculiarities of each member of a family have frequently 
to be dealt with. The absurdity, therefore, of attempting to 
generalise will be at once apparent. To prove the truth of 
such an assertion one has but to take say the Lilies, which are 
by far the most popular of any plants to be found in either 
section. Lr a state of nature it is possible to find one species 
inhabiting a swamp ; another in a comparatively dry place ; 
and yet a third taking an intermediate position, and revelling 
maybe in a peaty soil. And so it is with all the larger and 



ox HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



more important genera, whether of bulbs or tubers. In 
connection with the latter, it is only necessary to consider for a 
moment the Anemones — amongst the most popular of hardy 
plants — to fully appreciate the relevancy of the remarks. 
There are no general methods of culture which could, with any 
degree of certainty, be put forth as applicable to the larger 
genera of bulbous and tuberous plants, or, indeed, to some of 
the smaller ones where the conditions under which the species 
are found naturally vary so much. Seasons, again, exercise a 
considerable influence upon all plants, and particularly upon those 
belonging to the sections with which we are now dealing. Take 
the Lilies, for instance. Some seasons certain species will grow 
away and flower like weeds ; the next they will miserably fail, 
though treated similarly. The exact cause remains inexplicable, 
but that such failure alternates with success is the experience 
of everyone who has tried his hand at Lily culture. 

In the matter of propagation, likewise, of both bulbs and 
tubers, the methods vary not only with difl"erent families, but 
also with individual members of the same family, and here 
again no hard-and-fast line can be laid down. Each genus, 
therefore, of either section will be taken alphabetically, and its 
peculiarities pointed out as far as space will admit. IMany 
bulbous and tuberous plants are extremely impatient of dis- 
turbance, while others are best taken up as soon as mature, and 
stored away until planting time again comes round. 

The general method of increasing these popular hardy bulbs 
and tubers is by offsets, which in many cases are freely produced, 
and this with amateurs is by far the most satisfactory one. Seed- 
sowing is undoubtedly interesting, but the process is fraught 
with not a little difficulty, while the time occupied from the 
seedling to the flowering stage is so long (four to five years 
in some instances) as to weary all but actual growers for the 
trade. For all that, it is highly important that the cultivator 
should be made aware of the fact that this or that plant 
reproduces itself freely from seed. To cite an instance, the 
beautiful and graceful St. Bruno Lilies {AiitJmHcuui). These are 
very free in the matter of seed, and this constitutes one of their 
most useful characteristics when naturalised, as they should be, in 
grass. Fuller details will be found in the Chapter " On Propa- 
gation." 

The proper time for planting bulbs and tubers is but im- 
perfectly known, and it is this lack of knowledge which is 

X 



3o6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



responsible for the majority of the failures recorded against 
them. Popularly it is supposed that so long as, say, the 
Dutch bulbs are in the soil before " Christmas, this will suffice. 
Such is a great mistake. The time to plant is as soon as they 
are procurable. Narcissi are frequently left out of the soil far 
too long, with the result that instead of first making plenty of roots, 
they develop foliage, and flowers are conspicuous by their absence. 
August and September are the best months in which to plant 
Narcissi (including, of course, Dafl'odils) ; for though some kinds are 
accommodating enough to give a fair percentage of flowers if put 
in later, the way to ensure success is to plant early. And so it 
is with many other bulbs. Lilies deteriorate very quickly when 
left out of the soil, and failures innumerable are attributable to 
neglect of this important matter by the cultivator. 

Where to plant bulbs and tubers is a matter dependent 
largely upon local circumstances. Some are best planted between 
other subjects which form, as it were, a kind of ' natural 
protection. Many of the choicer Lilies, for instance, might 
with advantage be interspersed between Rhododendrons, Roses, 
and the usual occupants of the shrubbery border, providing they 
are not actually under such. The first-named, in particular, are 
admirably adapted for associating with the taller-growing Lilies. 
Whole beds, again, might be devoted to the culture of bulbs and 
tubers, grouping, say, some of the Lilies in the centre, and then 
disposing others according to height gradations and colour 
variations until the actual edge is reached. Even this might 
very well consist of the choicest spring-flowering bulbs, which 
give a mass of colour early in the year, and then the foliage dies 
down. In the borders themselves, good clumps of bulbs are 
preferable to a few straggling lines. Beds which are likely to 
be utilised for the ordinary summer occupants are not the best 
places in which to grow spring bulbs, some of which it is 
necessary to lift before they are ripe, to the certain detriment of 
the floral display the succeeding season. 

In parks and pleasure-grounds where the closely-shaven lawn 
is not considered the be-all and end-all of a well-kept garden, 
there is no more beautiful way of employing some of the most 
effective of bulbs and tubers than by naturalising. What, for 
example, has a more charming effect than the elegantly chequered 
purple Snake's Head {Fritillaria Aleleagris), rearing its gracefully 
drooping bell-shaped head above the fresh green grass of spring. 
True, it is only a native plant ; but what a gem ! There 



ox 



HARDY BULBS 



AXD TUBERS. 



are several other members of the same family which are quite 
as hardy, quite as well adapted, and, if anything, even more 
effective ; yet, how seldom do we see them. Potted up in a 
formal way, and used for the decoration of the greenhouse and 
conservatory, they are found in plenty, but that is all. 
Naturalised, what would give a more delightful effect 
than the smaller-growing Narcissi, the graceful Anthericums, 
the neat Snowdrops, the many-hued Crocuses, the bright 
Alliums and Grape Hyacinths, the distinct Cyclamens, with 
their characteristically pretty flowers and delicately-marked 
foliage, or the sweet little Winter iVconites, whose pretty flowers, 
surrounded by a light green collar, are the first to remind us 
that spring is at hand ? How different this from the regular 
lines of bulbs and tubers all too frequently met with in gardens ! 
The latter is restricted, hard, formal, and unnatural : the former 
free, simple, and decorative to a degree — Nature, in fact, un- 
adulterated by Art. It is astonishing to think how slowly we 
progress with this delightful form of gardening. Even those 
whose gardens and means are unlimited are slow^ to adopt 
naturalisation ; and yet these very people are the first to 
complain of bare patches under the shade of trees. There are 
bulbs and tubers in goodly variety that would flourish under 
trees, the flowers brightening up the landscape in spring, and 
the foliage imparting freshness when the trees themselves were 
verdant. One of the most useful of these subjects for planting 
under trees is Cyclamen neapolitamtni^ whose rosy-pink flowers 
in autumn are no less acceptable and decorative than is its 
silvery-marbled foliage at other seasons. C. grcBcum can be 
similarly recommended. Belonging also to the tuberous section 
are the exquisite Winter Aconite, that will thrive where little 
else will succeed, the distinctly beautiful Anemone apenriina^ and 
the native Lesser Celandine {Ranunculus Ficarid) ; while 
amongst bulbs that might be tried are our native Bluebell {Scilla 
fiufans), the Spanish Scillas {S. campatiulata and its varieties), 
and Solomon's Seal [Polygonatum multifloruni). Best of all for 
the purpose, however, because they will not only thrive under 
the densest shade, but are proof against the attacks of rats and 
rabbits, are : Alliuni neapolitanum^ Ornithogalum nutans, O. um- 
bellatum, and Trillium (Wood Hyacinth). 

It has been urged as an objection to several of the best 
known spring-flowering bulbous subjects used for garden 
decoration, that they are bare of foliage at the time of 

X 2 



3o8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



flowering. Granted that this is an objection ; yet it is one which 
may readily be overcome by providing "carpet plants," as they 
are termed, which not only take • off the naked appearance 
presented, but act as a protection to the bulbs, and 
prevent the flowers of the latter from being spoilt by rain 
splashes. In the rock garden this method of locating some 
of the choicer denizens, such as the pretty Iris species, 
which of late years have come to the front, has found great 
favour. Excellent for the purpose are such carpet plants as Sikne 
pendula, the Mossy Saxifrages, the neat-growing evergreen Candy- 
tuft {Iberis correcefolia\ the quick-growing, sweet-scented Thymes 
{Thymus Serpylhun and T. Chaincedrys la?ti(ginosus), and others. 

Pests, &c. — Hardy bulbs and tubers enjoy comparative immu- 
nity from insect and other pests, though of late years two or 
three fungoid diseases which are difficult to combat have put in 
an appearance. The worst is what is known as the Lily disease 
{Polyactis ca?ia), which attacks several of the most popular 
species, grown alike for garden purposes and for market, but 
chiefly the pure white Lilmm ca7ididuni (Madonna Lily). The 

cultivator must therefore be careful 
to purchase his bulbs from a trust- 
worthy source, and not to be led 
away by low prices. The grower is 
first made aware of the presence of 
the fungus by the foliage becoming 
spotted with rust, which in time 
spreads, until the expanded flowers 
and unopened buds are also attacked. 
The latter are quite disfigured by 
patches of brown. It is of little use 
trusting to Nature to repair the 
mischief, for frosts have not the 
slightest eftect upon the sclerotia 
which carry on the cycle of life in 
the succeeding season. It is very 
Fig. 183.-NARCISSUS Fly important _ to take _ precautionary 
IN ITS Various Stages. measures directly the disease is noted, 

as the spores are readily transmitted 
by insect and other agencies, and a large area is quickly infected. 
Moreover, it is thought that a similar, if not actually the same, 
fungoid disease attacks the Tulip. All the dead foliage, flowers, 
&c., of plants known to be infected should be very carefully 
removed and burnt. Resting bulbs might be kept for a time in 
powdered sulphur, and very weak solutions of the Bordeaux 
Mixture might be sprayed on the plants as soon as the disease 
manifests itself. 




ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 309 

Of insect pests one of the worst is the Narcissus fly 
{Merodon Narcissi)^ which destroys vast quantities of the bulbs. 
The presence of this creature may be readily noted at planting 
time by the softness of the bulb in which the maggot is 
feeding. The aldermanic grub remains in the bulb practically 
through the winter, when it changes into a pupa in the soil, 
and eventually emerges as a fly in April or May (Fig. 183, a, b, 
and c). The perfect insect has a very close resemblance to a bee, 
the blue-black body being banded with golden-yellow. By way 
of prevention, all soft bulbs should be carefully examined ; any 
which show signs of premature decay and general deterioration 
should be marked, and 
if . the maggot is found 
to be in them, say in 
August or September, 
they should be destroyed. 
Fig. 184 shows a bulb 
from which the maggot 
pupated in November, 

Snowdrops, again, in 
certain seasons and in 
certain districts, are at- 
tacked by a very destruc- 
tive fungus, Polyactis 
galanthina. The pecu- 
liarity of this disease is 
that there is little to 
warn the grower of the 
impending attack. The 
bulbs blossom and de- 
velop their foliage as 
if they were perfectly 
healthy. The next 
season, however, there is ^^^^ i84._Diseased Narcissus Bulb, 
frequently not a smgle due to the Attack of Nar- 

bulb to be found. Ground cissus Fly. 

which has been infected 

should receive a dressing of fresh lime, well dug in. All diseased 
bulbs should also be burnt. 

Gladioli are popularly supposed to suff'er decay from a fungus, 
but so far no one has been able to specify what. By Gladioli 
specialists, however, the decay is thought to arise from an error 
in treatment in not lifting the corms sufficiently early. And 
this certainly has been my own experience. 

The above constitute the chief of the pests against which 
the grower of hardy bulbs and tubers has to contend, and 
it will at once be admitted that the list is not a very for- 
midable one. 




THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Rats, voles, and mice are very destructive in some gardens, the 
first-named more particularly where waterside planting is adopted. 

Having dealt incidentally, at any rate, with the uses, cultiva- 
tion, and pests of bulbs and tubers, there now remains the 
enumeration of those genera, species, and varieties which ought 
to be represented in our gardens. The task, though a somewhat 
invidious one, is by no means impossible. Perhaps it will be 
well to state that plants for forcing will not be dealt with here, as 
a special chapter is reserved for their consideration later on in 
the work. For room-decoration and window-boxes many of the 
plants under notice are amongst the best ; while an additional 
list will be found in the "Appendix." A separate chapter has, 
however, been set apart for the treatment of these subjects. 

Agapanthus (African Lily). — A genus of stately liliaceous 
plants from South Africa, which are sufficiently hardy to with- 
stand English winters, at any rate in the South and West, with 
a slight protection of straw or other light material during severe 
weather. The tubular, bell-shaped flowers are of various 
shades "of blue or white, and are produced in large umbels. 
A deep, well-drained, light rich soil, enriched with well-decayed 
manure, suits them best. They may be used for the open 
border, or in large tubs to be disposed along the terraces 
and walks, or for planting by the sides of ornamental water, 
their noble appearance, deep green foliage, and striking flowers 
giving a most effective appearance. Plenty of water should be 
given in summer, and this supplemented by liquid manure when 
the flowers are forming. Increased by division in spring. The 
best kinds are the time-honoured A. umbellaius, A. u. Mooreaiius^ 

and A. u. inaxijuus. 
The tuberous roots 
may be lifted and 
stored much after the 
manner of Dahlias 
and Cannas. There 
are both deciduous 
and evergreen kinds. 

Allium. — Pretty 
and decorative bulbs 
belonging to the Onion 
family, and inheriting 
the evil smell charac- 
teristic thereof. They 
are easily cultivated, 
and will thrive almost 
anywhere. For naturalising they are excellent, but they impart 
bright colour to and furnish flowers in the borders in early 
summer. They are increased by ofl'sets in autumn, or by seed 




Fig. 185. — Allium Moly. 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



sown in spring. To be recommended are : A. Moly (Fig. 185), 
yellow, early summer ; A. nenpolitanuin, white, with green 
stamens, early summer, although immense quantities of flowers 
are upon the markets early in the year, the species forcing well ; 
A. azureiun, deep blue ; A. pedeinontanum (syn. A. narcissifioriivi)^ 
mauve, drooping, bell-shaped ; A. triquetrum^ white ; A. Osi?-flw- 
skianum, rose-crimson ; and A. flavum^ yellow. For naturalising, 
the best kinds are A. Moly and A. neapolitanum. 

Alstromeria (Herb Lily ; Peruvian Lily). — A genus whose 
hardiness has been much discussed, but whose distinctness and 
beauty are undeniable. There can be little doubt about the 
hardiness of the majority of species classed as such by nursery- 
men. The secret of their culture 
lies in the planting and position. 
A mere covering of the bulbs spells 
disaster: success is assured by planting 
from the middle to the end of 
October, at a depth of from 6in. to 
Sin. in a sunny border. This is one 
of the genera of plants which are 
impatient of disturbance, and once 
planted the bulbs should not be 
touched for several years, as they 
do not attain their full beauty until 
after the second or third year. 

Alstromerias are essentially plants 
for the border, and noteworthy species 
are : A. aurantiaca^ rich orange, 
spotted vrith red — one of the best 
and hardiest; A. chilensis^ varying 
from orange to deep i;ed ; A. pelegrina 
(Fig. 186), yellowish-white; and A. 
psittacina, deep red, with green 
splashes. For providing cut material, 
these plants are most useful, the 
flowers remaining good over a long 
period. Height 2ft. to 3ft. _ They ^ig. i86.-Alstromekia 
are not fastidious as to soil, but pelegrina. 
require plenty of water when growing, 

and a summer mulching is beneficial. Readily grown from seed 
sown as soon as ripe either in pots or in, a prepared border. 

Amaryllis (Belladonna Lily). — Though not as hardy as the 
majority of subjects which should be given a place in those 
portions of the garden to be devoted to bulbs and tubers, this is 
sufficiently so to warrant its being included. There can be no 
doubt as to its handsome appearance, nor yet again as to its 
value, seeing that it flowers in late autumn, maturing its foliage 




312 



THE BOOK OF 



GARDENING. 



in the spring of the following year. Many plants are catalogued 
as Amaryllis, but these, as a rule, belong to dififerent genera, 
requiring glasshouse treatment — Hippeastrums, Sprekelias, 6cc. A 
position where these bulbs will get plenty of sunshine is one of 
the requirements in connection with their culture which must be 
fulfilled ; others are a sandy soil, in which there is plenty of 
loam, and deep planting. Far too many amateurs plant the 
bulbs too shallow, with the result that they succumb to frost. 
A south border under a wall, or even under the shelter of a glass 
structure, where sun can reach, will suit them well, providing the 

bulbs are inserted 6in. 
' _ to gin. deep. The drainage 

material must be ample, 
and 3in. or 4in. of broken 
bricks at the bottom of 
the quarters prepared for 
the reception of the plants 
will be calculated to keep 
the bulbs from rotting, 
as they ought not to be 
disturbed very frequently 
— once in four 5'ears will 
be often enough. Sep- 
tember is the best month to 
plant, and a mulching of leaf- 
mould will afterwards be found 
beneficial. As an additional 
precautionary^ measure, light 
litter may be strewn over the 
bulbs in winter. Liquid manure 
in summer will be helpful, as 
also will plenty of water in a 
dry season. These Lilies may 
also be grown in pots. Height 
about 2 ft. The typical A. 
Belladoima is a delicate pink, 
and there are other coloured 
varieties, though none that 
surpass it for utility ; it is, 
moreover, delicately fragrant, therebv adding another charm. 
A. B. keweiisis (Fig. 187) is superior in size and colour to the 
type. 

Anemone (Windflower). — Few genera will compare with this 
for chaste beauty^, variety of colour, or earhness of flowers. 
Indeed, to it belong some of the choicest gems for border, 
rockery, or naturalising, putting forth as they do their elegant 
blossoms at a time when the o:arden is sin^ularlv bare of floral 
subjects. One is often puzzled to know what to plant under 




Fig. 187. — A:maryllis Bella- 
donna KEW^ENSIS. 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



the shade of trees. In A. apennina the gardener has a most 
useful subject, and one whose accommodating nature is not 
sufficiently well known ; it is perfectly at home, too, in the 
wild garden or in the trim-kept, shady border, its bright blue 
flowers lighting up the dullest of surroundings. This is but 
one of several species which ought not to be omitted. Readily 
increased by division in autumn. 

Earlier than A. apennina, but approaching it in colouring, is 
A. blanda. By affording it a choice site, such as a sunny 
batik or a rockery, it will give of 
its best, and, what is more, produce 
flowers over a very long period. 
Planted beneath Roses in the border, 
it has a pretty effect. Increased 
readily by division, 
though, like most of the 
species, it can be quite 
easily grown from seed. 
This species will be found 
most accommodating as 
to soil, for even in cold, 
heavy soil it will flourish. 

In the Poppy Ane- 
mones, which have been 
evolved from the old A. coronaria, 
the gardener has a delightful class 
• of plant, but one which does best 
in warmer soils than is the case 
with the last-mentioned species. 
The season of flowering, too, may 
be prolonged almost indefinitely 
by planting, as is frequently done, 
for both an autumn and a spring 
display. These Anemones are 
found both Single and Double 
(Fig. 188), and in a variety of 
colours — rich blues, dazzling scar- 
lets, delicate pinks, snow-whites, 

and also in flakes. The Singles should be grown from seed sown 
in June, either in the prepared border or in boxes of fine soil, 
pricking out the plants in autumn where they are to blossom, 
These Poppy Anemones are children of the sun, hiding their beauty 
from the common gaze during dull weather, but quickly opening 
under solar influence. The Doubles are propagated by division in 
autumn or in spring, though the first-named season is the better. 
Named varieties there are in abundance, Chapeau de Cardinal, 
Snowball, and Bluebeard all being excellent in Doubles, while 
in Singles the Victoria Giant and The Bride are sure to give 




Fig. 188. — Anemone coronaria. 



314 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



satisfaction. Some good mix- 
tures, suitable for those of 
limited means, are also pro- 
curable from nurserymen. 
These Poppy Anemones, as 
all the other kinds, like a rich 
diet. The seed is somewhat 
difficult to separate, the best 
way being to sprinkle it with 
fine earth. It should be 
lightly scattered, very lightly 
covered with soil, and sheets 
of paper or mats placed over 
it to prevent undue evapo- 
ration. Germination will 
quickly commence, and the 
seedlings appear, when the 
mats should be discarded, 
and gentle sprinklings given. 
Growth will be fairly rapid, and 
the young plants will blossom 
early in the next season. 

The strain of Poppy Anemones popularly described as St. 




Fig. 189. — Anemone palmata. 



Brigid rank among the finest forms of this 
The flowers are large, semi- 
double, and of rich and varied 
hues. These are readily grown 
from either seeds or roots. 
Worthy, too, of note, are the 
Chrysanthemum - flowered vari- 
eties. 

In growing Anemones from 
seed the ground must be made 
firm previous to sowing 
the seed. Select a time 
when the soil is in a nice 
friable condition, scatter 
the seed, then lightly cover 
with sand, and treat as 
previously advised. When 
the seedlings are about 
2in. high, prick them out 
where they are to flower. 

The secret of successful 
culture of A. coi-07ia7'ia 
and its varieties, as well 
as of some others, is 
to provide them with 



delightful section. 




Fig. 190. — Anemone stellata. 



ox HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



cutting 



2:round 



quarters in which they will be sheltered from 
winds. This is absolutely necessary. Late planting of the 
roots is also advisable, December and January being preferable 
to September and October, especially if the ground be open. 
If got in at the latter period they often make top growth in a 
few weeks, and if it once gets injured by winds this is fatal to 
the chances of flowering in spring. 

There are several other spring-flowering kinds deserving of 
mention, amongst which are A. palniata (Fig. 189), yellow ; 
A. neinorosa Robi7isoniana^ a blue variety of the common A\'ood 
Anemone; A. ?-a7iunculoides, yellow: and A. stellata (Fig. 190), in 
a variety of colours. 

Anomatheca.- — Though oftener grown in pots for the green- 
house or window garden, A. cruenta is hardy enough for outside 
cultivation. It is a native of South Africa, and attains a height of 
about I ft. Alight, sandy 
soil, a warm raised 
border or rockery, and 
•deep planting, com- 
pared with the size of 
the bulbs, constitute the 
chief requirements of 
this pretty member of 
the Iris family. The 
flowers are small but 
•of a brilliant scarlet, 
and the leaves are 
.graceful and grass-like. 
There is a recently- 
introduced species in 
A. s:randi flora, with 

The 

is sunk by 
modern botanists in 
Lapeyroiisia. Readily 
increased by offsets in 
spring, or by seeds, 
which ripen freely. 



grandiflora^ 
larger flowers, 
genus 




Fig. 191. — AXTHERICLM LlLIASTRUil. 



Anthericum (Phalangium). — Quite amongst the first rank of 
hardy bulbous flowers are the St. Bruno and St. Bernard Lilies 
{A. Liliasti-iim and A. Liliago), and they are fast becoming 
popular for borders or for associating with other graceful plants, 
hke some of the Irises, in a mixed bed ; while they also show to 
advantage when naturalised. The blossoms of the two species 
named, which are the commonest of those met with, are white. 
A. Llllastriim has flowers resembling small Lilies (Fig. 191) : 
while A. Liliago has small star-shaped flowers. There is a yellow- 



3i6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



flo^Yered plant in cultivation, usually classed as an Anthericum — 
Hookeri. It should, however, be relegated to a separate genus, 
Bulbiiiella. Most graceful foHage characterises the plants, which 
produce their flowers in early summer, the spikes being 
from I ft. to 2^ft. long in the case of the large form of 
'A. Liliastrum. Though usually found in trade catalogues under the 
names here adopted, A. Liliastriim is more correctly described 
as Paradisea Liliastriiin. Increased either by division in autumn 
or by seeds. A. 7'amosum is a most graceful species, with white 
flowers. It should be included where space can be spared. 

Babianas. — Undeniably beautiful though these are, they are too 
tender to be grown outside, expect in very favoured spots and 

under very favourable conditions, such 
as a sunny south border, and a light, 
loamy, well-drained soil. The flowers 
are bright as to colour, and Ixia-like in 




form (Fig 
month to 



The 
-^in. 



, 192). December is the best 
plant, covering the ground well 
with light litter to protect the foliage from 
frosts ; it should be removed in spring. 

bulbs should be planted some 
or 4in. deep. 

Bessera. — B. ekga?is, a pretty 
little Mexican bulb, is sometimes 
successfuUv cultivated outside when 
conditions similar to those named 
under Babiana obtain. It cannot, 
however, be classed as truly hardy. 
The flowers are scarlet, and in 
drooping umbels, and the foliage 
is graceful. 

Bloomeria. — Here again we have 
one of those choice bulbous subjects 
whose culture may be attempted 
where conditions similar to those 
recommended for Brodicea obtain. 
The species B. ain-ea is yellow with a brown stripe, and the 
flowers are produced in umbels in summer. 

Bravoa. — Another plant for a sheltered border, and a light, 
warm soil, is B. gemiiiifioi-a. It is a bright little subject, with 
drooping racemes of scarlet tubular flowers borne on spikes 2ft. 
high. Increased by offsets in autumn. 

Brevoortia coccinea (Fig. 193) is the plant usually cultivated 
as a Bi'odicca^ and is one of the most graceful and striking of 
such plants. The tubular flowers are scarlet, tipped with green, 
and are produced on very thin wiry stalks, 2ft, or more high. 
For culture, see Brodifea. 



Fig 192. — Bablan'a. 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



Brodi^a. — To America we are indebted for this most beautiful 
family of liliaceous plants, which until a few years ago were 
practically unknown in the hardy garden. The genus is a some- 
what confused one — at least, by amateurs — and those in search 
of the plants will find them catalogued as well under Milla^ 
Trifeleia, Bloomeria^ &c., while several of the plants best known 
to gardeners under the name of Brodiaeas are now allocated to 
other genera. Two of the best examples of these latter may be 
found in Brodicea coccinea (now Brevoortia coccinea) and the 
remarkable plant Bi^odicea vohibilis (now Stropholirion vohibilis). 
Mr. J. G. Baker, in 1896, issued an excellent monograph of the 
genus in the Garde?iers Chronicle^ 
and all who are botanically interested 
would do well to consult it. 

Brodiseas are quite hardy if but 
intelligently treated, and the marvel 
is that such gems for the border or 
choice rockery should have escaped 
notice so long. A south border 
(raised) and a light sandy soil are their 
chief requirements. Planting should 
be done in October or early in 
November, and the bulbs need not 
be disturbed except for removing 
the offsets, which are freely pro- 
duced. A dozen bulbs in a group 
will prove very effective. In height 
Brodi^eas range from ift. to 2ft, on 
the average, the colours varying con- 
siderably. There is one slight draw- 
back to the plants, or, rather, to some 
species, and this is that the foliage 
is frequently shabby before the flowers 
are at their best. Gardeners, however, 
get over this by carpeting the spot 
with a later-flowering compact annual. 
For pot-plants, Brodiseas have few 
superiors. Some of the best kinds 
are B. Hoivelli lilacina, soft blue, tipped with white ; B. grandi- 
flora, rich violet-blue, dwarf-growing, very free ; B. congesta, 
purplish-blue, lasting a long time in perfection, 2ft. ; B. laxa 
{Milla lao^a, Triteleia laxa), variable as to colour, from rich 
violet to purplish-blue ; B. Hoivelli, white, 2ft. ; B. He?iderso)ii, 
yellow ; B. Douglasi, bright blue, 2ft. ; B. Oraitti, light blue, and 
one of the latest to flower, ift. ; B. ixioides {Callipfora liitea), 
bright yellow with green bands, and the superior form of it 
known as ereda, which is of more compact habit and has erect 
flowers. 




3i8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



BuLBOCODiUM VERNUM (Fig. 1 94) is a gem amongst spring 
flowers, whether used in the border or on the rockery, appearing^ 
as it does, with the earh'est of bulbous plants. The flowers 
are rosy-purple, and resemble somewhat those of Crocuses. The 

leaves are produced with the 
flowers, and are lance-shaped. 
Early planting is desirable, 
and August will be found a 
good time for either dividing 
up the bulbs or making new 
plantations. 

Calochortus (Mariposa Lily ; 
Star Tulip). — These are uncom- 
monly beautiful bulbous plants, 
worthy of the widest recognition 
by the hardy plant lover, so long 
as he can provide the conditions 
their culture entails. The flowers 
are of immense size, exquisitely 
coloured, blotched, or pencilled, 
and they are, moreover, to be 
had over a long season by a judi- 
cious selection. Few orchids can 
excel in beauty the members of 
this little-known genus. At one 
time these bulbs were regarded 
as too tender for outside culti- 
vation, but their exact requirements 
now being understood, they can be 
as successfully cultivated as many 
of the commoner things w^hich are now given a place. For the 
best results a raised border should be made, the soil being 
composed mainly of leaf-mould and sand. The site should be 
a sunny one. Planting should be done in the autumn, and the 
bulbs lifted as soon as the stems decay, and well ripened each 
season. They may be propagated by offsets or by seeds. The 
latter require to be sown in well-drained pans, thinning 
as required, when they may be expected to blossom 
three years. Though some of the kinds will weather 
without protection, it is best to cover the beds with 
removing the same in spring. 

The genus also includes the Cyclobothras, which differ from 
the Calochorti in having drooping, closed flowers. The plants 
vary in height from a few inches to 2ft. or 3ft. The smallest, 
like C. Benthajni, canary yellow ; C. a/bus, white ; C. lilacmus, 
purple ; C. Maweanus^ white ; and C. cxruleus, pure white, with 
bluish hairs, are well suited for the rockery. They are also the 
earliest to flower. Later come the ]\Iariposa Lilies, which may 




Fig. 



194. — BULBOCODIUM 
VERNUM. 



them out 
in about 
the winter 
litter. 



light 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 319 

well be represented by any or all of the C. venustits^ 
forms (Fig. 195), but especially by citrinus and oculatus ; 
C. luteiis Weedii^ orange-yellow, and var. concolor^ rich yellow ; 




Fig. 195. — Calochortus venustus. 

C. Nuttallii^ white, with black eye ; C. Keunedyi^ scarlet ;, 
C. Plummerce^ soft lilac ; C. clavatus, bright golden-yellow ; and 
C. Gunisom, white, with greenish zone. 

Camassia esculenta (Fig. 196) is the only popular member 
of the genus in the hardy bulb garden, though C. Ciisickii 
promises to become so when better known. The plants grow 
from i^ft. to 2ft. high, and are suitable either for the flower 
border or for naturalising. Propagated by offsets in autumn ; but 
the bulbs dislike frequent disturbance. C. esculenta (Quamash) is 
a liliaceous plant with bright, blue flowers produced during 
summer. It likes a partially shaded position in a fairly rich 
soil, though it may also be grown in the ordinary border. 

Chionodoxa.— In this genus we have spring-flowering bulbs of 
the highest order of merit, of the brightest as regards colouring, 
of the hardiest constitution, and of the easiest culture. Planted in 
bold groups in the border or bed they are very effective ; and 



320 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 




— Camassia ESCULENTA. 



associated on the rockery with 
some of the early Narcissi, like 
JV. ?ninwms, they are not likely 
to be forgotten. For naturalis- 
ing these bulbs are eminently 
suitable. To frosts they are 
not in the least susceptible ; 
while they withstand wet 
weather better than most 
spring - flowering subjects. 
They should be planted 
in autumn about 2in. 
deep ; they increase very 
rapidly. C. Lucilice 
(Snow Glory) is a lovely 
kind, with deep blue 
flowers having a white 
centre ; C. grandiflora 
{C. giga?itea) is a larger 
form of the same species, 
and a little later flower- 
ing ; while C. sardensis 
is another variety bear- 
ing deep blue flowers. 



Christmas Rose. — See Helleborus. 

CoLCHicuM (Meadow Saffron). — The members of this genus 
are chiefly autumnal flowering, though one or two, like C. mcm- 
tanum, blossom in spring. The genus is not well represented 
in gardens, because of 
the somewhat ephemeral 
flowers and the bare appear- 
ance presented due to the 
foliage being produced at 
another season. Though 
suitable for borders and 
rockeries, they are best 
naturalised, as the grass 
then forms a fitting carpet. 
Even when utilised for beds or 
borders, a carpet of greenery 
should be provided in the form 
of some of the smaller Saxifrages, 
Aubrietias, Thymes, &c. 
should be done as soon as the 
bulbs arrive, and they should not 
be often disturbed. A sunny 
position and a sandy soil are what 




Planting 



Fig. 197.— Colchicum 
speciosum. 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



they delight in, though they will thrive in almost any 
ordinary flower-border. 

Of the autumn kinds the best and most distinct are 
C. speciosum (Fig. 197), rosy-purple; C. Parkinsoni^ violet-purple, 
elegantly chequered ; C. byzantimim, rose-pink ; and C autum- 
naie album plenum, with its large, showy, double white flowers. 
C. montaniim has already been alluded to as the best of the spring- 
flowering kinds, but C crocifiorum might be named as a fitting 
companion. The former varies from pink to whitish, and the 
latter is white, with delicate violet-purple lines. Then there is 
C. luteum, yellow. 

CoNVALLARiA MAjALis (Lily of the Valley) needs no recom- 
mendation or description. A warm, partially-shaded border, and 
some good turfy loam, are what the 
crowns delight in, with plenty of 
moisture in the growing season, aided 
by weak manure-water occasionally. 
Drought is to be guarded against, and 
this may best be done by mulching 
the crowns at planting time with 
thoroughly rotten manure. Autumn 
is the best time to plant, and little 
else will be needed except to see 
that the crowns do not become too 
crowded, or weakly flower-spikes will 
be sure to result. In large gardens, 
where a good supply of the flowers is 
required, the crowns may be inserted 
in different positions, some in north, 
others in south borders. Besides the 
ordinary variety there is a splendid 
form in Fortin's (Fig. 198), while 
there is another having striped foliage, 
but this is its only recommendation. 
It cannot' be too widely known that 
Lilies of the Valley flower only on 
three-year-old crowns. There is no 
necessity to refer to the •value of the 
Lily of the Valley as a pot-plant. 




Fig. 198. — Fortin's Lily 
OF THE Valley. 



Crinum.— Several species belonging to this genus are hardy 
in a sandy, well-drained soil and a warm position. The bulbs 
must, however, be deeply planted, ift. being none too much. 
The middle of May is the best time for this. The after-attention 
consists in affording plenty of moisture, and in giving some weak 
manure-water when the spikes are pushing. C. capense (properly 
longifolium) and its varieties are the best for outside culture ; 
but C. Poiuelli alba (white) and C. Moorei, with handsome 



322 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



blush-rose flowers, may likewise be planted under the wall of 
a stove or a greenhouse. These plants remind one of the 
Hippeastrums as regards their flowers, which are of large size, 
and delicately fragrant. Increased by seeds, or by offsets 
removed from the parent plant and potted up. 

Crocosmia aurea, better known, perhaps, as Tritonia aurea, is 
a most useful plant for a warm border and a light, rich soil. 
The graceful flowers are Gladiolus-like in form, and are highly 
prized for cutting. The chief value of this plant lies in the 
season at which it flowers — autumn. In the South and West 
of England the bulbs need not be lifted if assigned the position 
advocated ; and even where lifting is adopted, they are best 
potted up direct from the soil before winter frosts appear, 

replanting them in May. 
The plants are from 2ft. 
to 3ft. high, and several 
bulbs should be planted 
in a group, allowing 3in. 
to 4in. between each. 
Besides the type named, 
which is orange-red, there 
are in imperialis and 
iiiaculata two well-marked 
varieties worth cultivating. 

Crocus. — For utility, 
ease of culture, or for 
bright colours. Crocuses, 
whether autumn- or spring- 
flowering, are hardly to 
be surpassed, and what- 
ever method of planting 
is adopted, they are sure 
to give satisfaction. Next 
to naturalising them, there 
is no better way of utilising 
Crocuses than as edgings 
to borders. Massed, they of course look well ; but then they 
have to be lifted, which is not best calculated fo secure good 
results another season, unless great care is taken. They 
dislike a heavy, damp soil, and being disturbed. .Only when 
the bulbs show signs of deteriorating should they be lifted. 
September or October is the time to plant the spring kinds, 
and though the bulbs are sufficiently accommodating to flower 
if inserted later, it is not desirable. Crocuses may be 
grown to flower earlier by potting them up or even by 
placing them in saucers filled with Jadoo Fibre, a substance 
which for indoor work has much to recommend it. When 




Fig. 199.— Crocus speciosus. 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



grown in the open the amateur must guard against two things : 
the ravages of the sparrows, which may be prevented by 
stretching black cotton across their quarters, and the removal of 
the foHage before it is ripe. There is a great temptation to do 
so on account of its unsightly appearance, as there is to twist 
it into a knot for a similar reason. Both are, however, fatal to 
success another season. Crocuses generally are increased by 
offsets, and some few produce seed freely. When this is the 
case it should be sown as soon as ripe. Deep planting is not 
good for Crocuses. The best results are obtained when the 
bulbs are just covered with soil. 

Of spring-flowering species and varieties the following may be 
recommended : C. Imperati^ lilac, variable ; C. Olivieri^ orange ; 
C. Sieberi, pale violet, with 
orange base ; C. susianus 
(Cloth of Gold) ; C. obesus, 
purple; and several others. 
There are also, of course, 
the numerous varieties 
descended from the well- 
known C. vermis ; while mention 
should also be made of the 
lovely C. bifioriis^ a winter or 
early spring kind, whose outer 
petals are white, striped, and the 
inner ones pure white. 

In the autumn-flowering sec- 
tion, which should be got into 
the soil as soon as on the 
market, are several gems, but 
none more effective than C. spe- 
ciosus, whose fine purple flowers, 
with rich yellow stamens, are 
seen to best advantage when 
naturalised, or when grown upon 
the rockery (Fig. 199); C. mediiis^ 
purple ; C. zonatus, lilac, with 
yellow base ; and C. iridifiorus 
{C. byzantinus, Fig. 200), purple 
and lilac. There are, moreover, 
a number of other species and 

varieties which flower in mid-winter, but most of these 
are best grown under the protection of a frame. Exceptions 
are C. chrysanthns and its varieties ; and C. Tomviasviiaiius^ 
a profuse blossomer, and very hardy. In colour this latter 
is a combination of silvery-grey and pale blue, and it is one of 
those kinds which no gardener should overlook. Sec also 
" Appendix." 

Y 2 




Fig. 200. — Crocus iridiflorus 
(c. byzantinus). 



324 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Cyclamen (Sowbread). — Though neither a bulb nor a tuber 
in the strict sense of those terms, it is so generally classed by 
trade growers, that facility of reference at least will be best 
served by mentioning it here. The really hardy kinds are few 
in number, but what they lack in this respect they make up for 
in utility and decorative value. They are more particularly 
useful for growing under the shade of trees, where little 
else save Ivy would live for more than a season. Yet 
C. neapolitajiiini in such a place will yield its w^hite 
and lilac-tinted flowers in profusion, these being succeeded by 
marbled leaves quite as decorative. For woodlands, again, for 
rockeries, or for shady banks, they are equally well suited. 
C. Coiini (Fig. 201) and its several varieties; C. hedercefoiiuui, 

which has scented as well as beau- 
/'s-^ tiful flowers ; C. vernum. white and 

; and C. europceum^ 
-purple, are some of 
St. All the hardy 
ens grow freely in 
lined, rich peaty, or 
loamy soils, and the 
majority delight in 
partial shade. Cycla- 
mens are lime-loving 
plants ; so that when 
preparing a soil it 
will be advisable 
to mix up with it 
some old mortar 
rubbish in liberal 
proportions. They 
dislike ground winds^ 
and this is why they 
thrive so well in 
sheltered positions 
under trees. Hardy Cyclamens blossom at all seasons — C. Coiim 
and its varieties in winter and early spring ; C. verniim in 
spring ; C. europceum in summer ; and C. hedercEfoIhim in 
autumn. The corms should be planted very shallow in late 
summer. Increased freely by seed sown in pans in a cold frame 
in late autumn. 

Eranthis hyemalis (Winter Aconite). — This monotypic genus 
is one of the most useful in the whole range of hardy bulbs 
and tubers, for the flowers sometimes appear in the very depth 
of winter, and will flourish amidst surroundings — smoke and tree- 
shade — absolutely fatal to plant-life generally. A glance at the 
illustration (Fig. 202) will be sufficient to show that it belongs to 
the Buttercup family. The plant is but 3in. high, of a bright 




Fig. 201.— Cyclamen Coum. 



ox HARDY BULES AND TUBERS. 



yellow, 
it best. 



set off with a collar of intense green. A warm soil suits 
though for a time, at any rate, it will flourish in a cold 

one. It is the best of 



all 




flowering 



growing 



Fig. 202. — Eraxthis hyemalis. 



ubjects for 
beneath shady 
trees, and should be freely 
employed, as a perfect 
carpet of gold will soon 
be formed. Though when 
naturalised it looks most 
effective, vet, flowering as 
early as it does, it cannot 
be despised even as a 
border plant. The tubers 
should be planted in 
autumn. Increased bv 
division in late summer. 

Eremurus. — The merits of the plants belonging to this genus 
are slowly being recognised by gardeners. There is, however, one 
great drawback to their ever being very 
popular, and that is the liability of the 
foliage to be discoloured by spring 
frosts and east winds. The brownness 
is more noticeable in 
plants which are placed 
where the earlv morning 
sun shines full upon 
them, and for this 
reason a north-west 
aspect has been advo- 
cated. Eremuri are 
noble plants, and if 
a well-drained, rich, 
loamy soil and a posi- 
tion sheltered from high 
winds can be assigned 
them, they will flourish. 
To see them at their 
best, they should be 
backed by a wealth of 
o^reenerv. Autumn is the 
time to plant, and the 
roots should not be dis- 
turbed. The species best 
known to cultivation 
are: £. rohiistiis, rosy- 
peach, 6ft. to 9ft. : E. hinialaicus, white, with golden anthers, 
5ft. to 8ft. ; and E. Bungei\ yellow, 2^ft. All flower in summer. 




Fig. 203. 



-ERYTHROXIL'M dexs-caxis. 



326 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Erythronium (Dog's-tooth Violet). — Of late years many 
additions have been made to this genus, ^vhich now furnishes 
some of the most useful of spring-flowering plants. The varieties 
of E. denS'Canis are well adapted for the edges of borders 
or shrubberies, or for naturalising. The flowers of ail are strikingly 
Cyclamen-like, and are purple, lilac, yellow, pink, and white in 
colour ; while the foliage of some species is elegantly mottled. 
Erythroniums range between 6in. and gin. in height. A shady 
site amongst the grass is an ideal spot for them, while in the 
border, in choice corners of the rock garden, mixed with Mossy 
Saxifrages, or under the shade of shrubs, in a good loam, they 
will blossom freely. Propagated by division in late summer. 

Species and varieties worth growing are the common E. dens- 
canis (Fig. 202), rosy-purple : E. Hartivegi^ light yellow, very early ; 
E. grandifloruni^ bright yellow ; E. revolutuin \Hendersoiii\ light 
purple, mottled foliage ; E Nuttalliaiium^ deep yellow^ ; and 
E. [ohnstoni^ pink, with yellow base. 




Fig. 204. — Fritillaria Meleagris. 



Fritillaria (Fritillary). — Distinctly interesting are all the 
hardy members of this genus which have been introduced to 
cultivation. In few^ gardens, however, except cottagers', is the 
genus represented, and there usually by the more stately 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



Crown Imperial (^F. imperialis). They are essentially bulbs for the 
hardy plant lover, as they thrive without any special attention. 
For the shrubbery, the border, for naturalising, as well as for 
the rockery, there are species that may be profitably utilised, 
our native Snake's Head {F. Meleagris^ Fig. 204) being one of 
them. Though this has not gorgeous colours to attract attention, 
yet its grace and refined beauty are sure to enlist admirers, as 
those who have seen it in the fields around Oxford can testify. 
Any well-drained soil will grow these bulbs, which should be 
planted in autumn, and allowed to remain undisturbed until signs 
of deterioration are evident. Propagated by seeds and by offsets. 

The Crown Imperial, with its whorl of nodding flowers, 
surmounted by a tuft of foliage, is best placed among the 
choicer shrubs. The colours vary, but are chiefly yellow or red. 
Far more graceful, however, are such species as F. aurea, pale 
yellow, drooping, 4in. to 5in. ; F. latifolia and F. Meleagris, in a 
variety of colours, ift. ; F. pudica, deep yellow, drooping, 6in. ; 



recurva. 



orange- 



and F. 

scarlet, ift., one of the 
best, though not as robust 
as some. All the above- 
named flower from early to 
late spring, and should be 
planted in fair-sized groups 
when utilised in the beds or 
borders. F. recurva needs 
to be planted in almost 
pure sand. Fritillarias make 
excellent pot subjects. 

FuNKiA (Plantain 
Lily). — Foliage rather 
than flower recommends 
these to the notice of 
the hardy plant lover. 
They are shade-loving 
subjects, and in such 
positions their foliage 
assumes a greater size, 
as well as being of a 
better colour. All the ■ 
hardy kinds can be 

used with good effect in shrubberies, as lawn plants, or when 
naturalised in woodlands: F. SieboIdia?ia (Fig. 205) is often used 
for the last-named purpose ; it also makes a bold, permanent 
edging. A good deep loam will grow any of the Funkias, 
which may be propagated by division in autumn or spring. 
Besides F. Sieboldiaiia and its varieties, F. ovaia aureo-variegata 
and F. iLiidulata can be recommended for outside culture. 




Fig. 20;. — FuNKiA Sieboldiana. 



328 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Funkias make capital pot-plants, especially F. subcordata gra??di- 
flora, with its pure white sweetly-scented flowers. 

Galanthus (Snowdrop). — Another genus of bulbous plants 
requiring no recommendation. The Snowdrop has graced our 
gardens from time immemorial, and though an interchange of 
commerce is continually presenting us with new forms, all are 
welcome, even if they do oust from favour some of the species 
and varieties which were known to an older generation. Snow 
drops are so generally associated with spring, that it may not be 
out of place to refer to the fact that there are autumn kinds. 

Most of the Snowdrops will succeed practically anywhere, 
though a rich, somewhat gritty loam is the best all round. In 
such a variety of ways may the neat little blossoms be utilised 
for the decoration of gardens, that it is difficult to call to mind 
any other bulbous subject of similar size that is so widely appre- 
ciated. Associated with Scillas and Chionodoxas in the open 
border, or with the Iris gems like reticulata and many another 
upon the rockery, they perhaps stand out to the greatest advan- 
tage ; utilised, however, on ^ grassy banks, under the shade of 

trees, they appeal strongest to the 
true lover of nature. Snowdrops 
grow best where disturbed least. 
They should be planted in Septem- 
ber, but should it be necessary 
from any cause to shift them, this 
may be done after the leaves have 
died down, or after flowering, and 
while the foliage is still green. 
Indeed, as the bulbs are small, the 
latter plan is preferable for the 
amateur to adopt. 

Of the kinds best known to cul- 
tivation there are the various forms 
of G. nivalis, G. Imperati^ G. 
plicatus, G. Ehvesii, and the new 
Gi Ikarice, which has been grown 
so successfully at Kew and else- 
where. The Snowdrop is also 
very pretty when grown as a pot 
plant for the window, or for the 
cool conservatory. It will not 
stand much forcing. Those who 
wish to experiment may grow the 
Snowdrop from seed ; but for the 
general gardener the method cannot be advocated, and he should 
increase his stock by means of offsets. 

Galtonia candicans i^Hyacinthus candicans) (Fig. 206) is a most 
decorative subject if a warm border can be fomid for it. The 




Fig. 206. — Galtonia candicans. 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



plant is not often met with, thougli why it is difficult to understand, 
seeing how effective it is in the mixed border, and how readily 
it grows. The fragrant flowers are pure white and bell-shaped, 
and are produced on stems 4ft. or 5ft. high. The bulbs 
should be planted in autumn, at which season, too, the plants 
may be increased by offsets. They are impatient of frequent 
disturbance. 

Gladiolus (Corn Flag). — Reference has already been made 
under " Florists' Flowers " to the chief sections of this popular 
genus. There remains, therefore, but the species to be dealt 
with here. -None of these are very popular, and are seldom met 
with outside large collections. They are not subjects for the 
average gardener to take in hand, as the culture of the majority 
entails considerable trouble and not a little skill to grow them 
in the outdoor garden, though they make pretty pot-plants. 
There are a few kinds which stand out prominently, and which 
may well be taken in hand by the hardy plant lover : 
G. Sauiidersi^ rich scarlet, blotched white ; G. psitfaciiius, greenish, 
with purple streaks ; G. Colvillei, bright red, and the white form, 
alba ; and G. purpiireo-auratus^ deep yellow, with purple blotch, 
are of them. All 
require a sunny 
aspect and shelter 
from cutting winds, 
as the growth is 
made early. They 
are, moreover, best 
accommodated on 
a raised bed or 
border, and covered 
with light litter, 
like heather, until 
spring, except G. 
Saiindersi and G. 
purpiireo - auratiis. 
The kinds enumer- 
ated should be 
planted in Novem- 
ber or December, 
and lifted annually 
except in very 
favoured spots and 
soils. The species 
excepted should be inserted in spring; 4in. to 6in. will be a good 
depth to plant the corms. See also "Florists' Flowers," Chapter III. 

Helleborus (Christmas Rose ; Lenten Rose). — A time- 
honoured inhabitant of our gardens is H. 7iiger and its varieties 




THE BOOK OF GARDEX-IXG. 




(known as Christmas Roses). Their chief value lies in the fact 
that they are white, and if carefully managed will be in 
perfection in mid-winter. To have them in the best of condition- 
it IS necessary to cover with a bell-glass, or the blossoms soon 
get spoilt by dashing rains. 

Christmas Roses blossom very early. The first to show flower is 
H. niger maximus in November ; this is followed by H. //. 
altifolius (iMadame Fourcade, Fig. 207) in January; and lastly by 
the type H. niger. 

Equally deserving of praise are the Lenten Roses {H. orien- 
falis), whose flowers embrace all the shades of rose and purple, 
as well as white and cream. IMany, too, are exquisitely spotted. 
No hardy plants are more valuable than these, giving as they 
do of their best in February — a season of the year when out- 
side blossoms are scarce. Other good kinds are H. 
giittafus, H. cokhicics, H. piuictatus^ H. abchasicus^ H. viridis^ and 
Gertrude Jekyll. 

Hellebores will thrive in most garden soils, but they require 
partial shade, a west or north-west aspect, and a fairly stifY loam. 

During summer they re- 
quire either to be well 
^ watered or to be heavily 
mulched. If this important 
detail be neglected the 
crop of blos- 
soms is poor. 
They are pro- 
pagated by di- 
vision, which is 
best performed 
soon after 
flowering has 
ceased. April is a 
good month to take 
the Lenten Rose 
section in hand. 

Hemerocallis 
(Day Lily). — These 
hardy plants of the 
Lily family are worth 
attention : as they 
will grow in almost 
Fig. 208.— Hemerocallis aurantiaca :\e\jor. any soil, and under 

almost any condi- 
tions, they are valuable to a degree. The only thing that can 
be urged against them is that the individual flowers are fugitive : 
but the plants are so floriferous that this is not noticed. In 
the mixed border or in the shrubbery they are equally at 




ox HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



home, and they may be planted in autumn or early spring. 
The flowers are yellow, of different shades, many are fragrant, 
and all are produced in summer. 

All the Day Lilies are valuable for cutting, especially the 
following : H. Jiava, fragrant, early flowering ; H. Thunbergi, 
sweet-scented, late flowering ; H. Diimortieri^ dwarf, very free ; 
H. disticha flore plejio ; and the iiew H. aurantiaca major 
(Fig. 208). These plants are excellent for hot, dry, poor soils, 
although they will thrive alm^ost anywhere. Propagated by 
division in late autumn, but the clumps are better if not 
very frequently disturbed. 

Hyacinthus (Hyacinth). — Everyone is acquainted with the 
Hyacinths — at least with the Dutch kinds, which are those in 
general cultivation. They are a most popular class of plant, and 
will blossom in either town or country. Their great drawback^ 
however, is that they deteriorate after the first season, and the 
only way to get really fine flowers is to plant each season. 
Beds of Hyacinths make town gardens look gay during the early 
spring months, and good-sized clumps (the bulbs being arranged 
6in. to Sin. apart) always look effective in the mixed border. 
They delight in a well-drained light but fairly rich soil. The 
bulbs are liable to be nipped with spring frosts, and for 
this reason some growers cover their quarters with light litter. 
When planting, due care must be taken with the colour dis- 
tribution, and when the flower-spikes are fading they should be 
removed. This is especially necessary if it is intended to use 
the bulbs another season. For list of varieties, both double and 
single, see " iVppendix."' 

So much for what are popularly spoken of as the Dutch 
bulbs. There, are, however, one or two species which ought not 
to be omitted from the bulb garden — H. amethystimis (Spanish 
Hyacinth) for instance. This is a South European species, 
introduced as long ago as 1759. The flowers are a bright 
blue, and are produced in loose spikes in May. This bulb 
should be given a place in every garden where space can 
be found. The plant sometimes catalogued as Hyacinthus 
ca7idicans. is now regarded as a Galtonia, under which name it 
is described. 

Iris. — A large and interesting family, which, botanically, is 
divided into two broad sections — Bulbous and Rhizomatous. The 
former embraces the English and Spanish Irises, and the latter 
the Flag Irises, whose beautiful and varied colours lend such a 
charm to our summer gardens. Besides the English and Spanish 
Irises already alluded to, there are quite a large number of 
species belonging to the Bulbous section which rank amongst 
the earliest of spring flowers if provided with a warm, sheltered 
situation, say on a rockery. ' To this belong the elegant . 



332 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



/. reticulata (Fig. 209), the equally beautiful /. Bake7-iaiia^ and 
/. histrioides. These require considerable care to bring them to 
perfection in the outdoor garden, as they are soon spoilt by 
heavy rains in spring. The first-named is also very liable to 
mildew, which destroys vast numbers of the bulbs. 

Apart from their varied hues and brilliant colours. Irises have 
other qualities which entitle them to consideration. First may 
be mentioned their ease of culture ; secondly, their accom- 
modating nature, for amongst the Flag Irises are to be found 
a number which will flourish even in town gardens. As is 
but natural with so vast a genus, soil and situations vary 
ornewhat with different kinds. Most of them will thrive in 

any ordinary garden soil ; and 
a few will only give of their 
best when placed in the richest 
of quarters (though manure 
coming in actual contact is in- 
jurious), with plenty of moisture, 
as by the side of a stream or 
lake. In height, too. Irises vary 
considerably. There are tall 
and stately species, like /. 
pallida ; intermediate ones like 
/. sibi7'ica (Siberian Irises) ; and 
yet others, which are only a 
few inches, such as /. 7'eticulata^ 
I. alata, and /. Bakeriaiia. 

The genus L-is is so vast 
a one that it is quite impossible 
in a limited space to deal at 
all fully with it. It is proposed, 
therefore, to call attention to 
some of the choicer kinds in 
each section, reserving the 
enumeration of others tor the 
"Appendix." First as to the 
Rhizomatous section, of which 
the tall Bearded Irises or 
Flags of our gardens stand out so prominently. Among the 
most distinct are : /. germaiiica Kharput : /. aphylla INIadame 
Chereau ; /. auiana Mrs. G. Darwin and Due de Nemours ; /. 
neglecta Cordelia, Amabilis, and Miss Maggie ; /. pallida dal- 
niatica, Mandralisc^e, and Queen of May ; /. squalens Dr. Bernice, 
Arnois, and Lady Jane ; /. variegata Alba, Aurea, Gracchus, and 
Maori King. Then come the Dwarf Bearded group, which are 
charming for permanent edgings, for massing, or for the rock 
garden. "All are pretty, but especially good are Count Andrassy, 
Sieberi, and Olbiensis Sulphurea. These grow some loin. high. 




Fig. 209. — Iris reticulata. 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



333 



All the Bearded Irises like a fairly dry and sunny position, 
and are best t?'a7isplanted as soon after flozvering as possible. 
This should be done every third year, planting only the strongest 
crowns, which break off from the bulk, and burning the 
remainder. 

. Other handsome Rhizomatous Irises are : /. Monspur^ /. orieti- 
falis^ I. spuria 77iaJor^ I. aurea^ and /. Monnierii. These all 




Fig. 2IO. — Iris sibirica. 



have large handsome flowers, and are excellent for the ordinary 
border or for planting by the sides of streams. They attain a 
height of from 3ft. to 5ft. The Siberian Irises (/. siinrica, 
Fig. 210) are also fine border-plants, and are alike valuable for 
lakeside planting — a trifle above water-level. Their flowers are 



334 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



small, graceful, and freely produced upon numerous slender 
stems, borne well above the grass-like foliage. In height they 
are from 3ft. to 5 ft. 

Other Irises in this section worthy of note are /. cristata^ a 
gem for sunny spots or for the rock garden ; /. mignicu- 
laris (/". stylosa), quite hardy, but delighting in a dry, sunny 

position, such as under a south wall, or 
upon sunny banks — a charming winter- 
flowering species ; /. foetidissiina is another 
useful species, thriving alike in dry borders, 
in shade, or in damp places. A highly- 
prized characteristic of this species are 
the large scarlet berries, much employed 
for winter decoration. 

Too- much can hardly be said in 
praise of /. Icevigata (/. KcEnipferi). Every 
garden with a damp border, or with a 
stream, pond, or ditch, should contain this 
species. It is one of the Japanese sacred 
flowers, and a special national feast-day 
and holiday are devoted to the worship 
of this Iris. There are a host of named 
varieties, some of the best being : Nitta, 
Chiyo, Minamobo, and Taira. Also ex- 
cellent for water-edge planting are /. versi- 
color and its varieties. 

Though difficult to grow it would be 
unfair to leave out altogether in the cold 
the Oncocyclus group of Irises, as it un- 
doubtedly contains many gems, the flowers 
ranging from bronzy-black to grey and 
fawn. The secret of their culture lies 
in giving them a good " baking " in 
summer, and being allowed to rest im- 
mediately after flowering in June until 
October. Among the best are : /. susiana 
(Fig. 211), /. Lorteti, and /. hipiiia. 

Of the Bulbous section the Spanish 
Irises, with their brilliantly-coloured flowers, 
are the most popular. Strong-flowering bulbs 
are to be had very cheaply, and nothing is 
more valuable for cutting during June than these. Where pos- 
sible, they should be grown in partial shade ; the flowers then 
last longer than if exposed fully to the sun. Any ordinary garden 
soil will suit them. Following just after come the English 
Irises, whose flowers are white, mauve, violet, and rich purple. 

Then there are many dainty little species in this section, whose 
claims must not be overlooked. For instance, /. 7'eticulata^ with 




Fig. 211. — Iris 

SUSIANA. 



ox HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 




planted in 
serting the 
sunny beds 



strongly violet-scented purple-blue flowers ; /. Bakej-iana ; and 1. 
Histrioides. These like sandy soil, and are best when grown in 
frames or in pots in a cold greenhouse. They flower in early 
spring. For sheltered spots, again, there are such lovely kinds as 
/. alata and /. a. alba^ as well as /. persica. 

In using Irises for table decoration they should be cut in the 
bud state — just as the flowers are bursting ; they develop far 
better in water than on the plants. 

As many amateurs like to try their hand at seed-raising, it 
may be as well to state that some Irises seed more or less 
freely — /. germanica, I. mirea^ J. sibirica^ 
I. JIoji?ueri, and many others. The seed 
should be sown in a cold frame when ripe, 
and the seedlings potted ofl" into "sixties," 
from which they may be transferred to 
the open ground the following spring. 

IxiA. — Though not usually considered 
hardy, these bulbs may at any rate be 
cultivated in a light, well-drained soil in 
the south and west. They are best 
December and January, in- 
bulbs 4in. deep in raised 
sheltered from \Yinds. The 
bulbs should be surrounded with plenty 
of sharp sand, and the beds be covered 
with light litter. They may be expected 
to blossom in summer, and when ripe 
should a2:ain be lifted and stored until 
planting time. There is an excellent colour 
range. Propagated by off"sets. /. vij-idijfoj-a 
(Fig. 212) is a most uncommon plant, being 
green, spotted near the centre. For list of 
varieties, see "Appendix." 

IxiOLiRiox. — Like the Ixias, these bulbs 
are not quite hardy enough to endure the 
rigours of our climate, and it is only in 
favourable soils and sites that their culture 
should be attempted. I. Fallasi {I. talari- 
aim var.) is the kind usually cultivated, 
and when it can be induced to flower, 
its large Lily-like blossoms (Fig. 213) and 
neat foliage well repay any trouble that may 
be incurred in protecting it early in the 

season. A well-drained south border, and a light loam, will be 
essential to success. The bulbs should be planted in autumn. 

Kniphofia i^Tritonia) (Flame Flower, Red-Hot Poker, Torch 
Lily). — Bulbous plants of the showiest description, and exceedingly 




Fig. 212. — IxiA 

VIRIDrFLORA. 



336 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



well known by reason of their fancied resemblance to a red-hot 
poker. In catalogues they are usually classed as Tritomas ; but 
under whatever name found, they are so decorative that their 
merits should be known, as frequently they are the brightest 
flowers in an autumn garden. They are not, however, exclusively 
autumn plants, for some desirable species (yK. caiilescens and 

K. Rooperi^ about 4ft.) are 




in beauty in early summer. 
The former may be described 
as salmon-red, and the latter 
as bright red at first, 
ultimately becoming a nice 
yellow. Nor are their 
numerous flowers the only 
conspicuous feature of these 
two plants : their foliage is 
very distinct and bold, and 
reminds one strongly of that 
of the Yucca. 

Kniphofias may be ac- 
commodated in shrubberies 
and wide borders, on lawns, 
and also in those delight- 
ful old-fashioned beds of 
perennials still to be met 



with. The only thing that 
can be urged against the plants is that they are not as robust as 
some of the bulbs already enumerated, and that they need to 
be protected against severe frosts by covering them with some 
light mulching material towards the end of October. This is 
particularly necessary in the less favoured parts of England. A 
rich well-drained soil is what these bulbs delight in, and they 
should be planted in spring. Their after-treatment consists in 
the provision of plenty of water during the growing season, and 
the assistance of a stimulant when the stems are pushing. 
Propagation is usually effected by division in spring, but some 
species it is necessary to propagate by suckers which may be 
induced to push by subjecting the plant to a severe cutting after 
the flower-spikes have gone over. The beautiful K. caiilescens 
should be treated in this way. 

In height Kniphofias vary between 3ft. and 5ft. A few of 
of the most useful kinds, other than those already named, are : 
K. abides {Tritoma Lvaria), the commonest species, but by no 
means the least desirable. There are many forms of it, the best 
being grandis, Fig. 214, (5ft.), nobilis (5ft.), and Saiindersii (5ft.). 
Distinct and beautiful are K. Burchellii (3ft.) ; K. coralUna superba^ 
a very brilliant scarlet, and of dwarf habit (2 ft.) ; K. 
Macowanii, soft pink, and very dwarf (ijft.); K. Nelsoni, scarlet, 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 337 

of various shades (2ft.), one of the newest ; K. sarvmitosa^ a 
combination of red and yellow (3ft. to 4ft.); and K. foltosa, 
bright yellow, or tinged with red, with a dense raceme ift. long, 
and with leaves in a dense basal rosette (3ft.). This last is a 
robust kind, and is the same plant as X. Qiearti?iia?ia. 

Besides the species enumerated, there have been introduced 
some lovely hybrids, all worthy the attention of the cultivator. 




Fig. 214. — KxiPHOFiA aloides geandis. 



Some of the best are Obehsk, deep yellow ; Star of Baden 
Baden, bronzy-yellow ; Lachesis, deep yellow ; Triumph, orange ; 
and Citrina, soft yellow. 

Leucoium (Snowflake). — A small but pretty genus of bulbs. 
Four species are hardy enough for the outdoor garden : 
L. vernn7?i, white with green spots, flowering in spring ; 
L. pulchellum, white with green tips, appearing a little later ; 

z 



338 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



L. cestivu??i, white, flowering in early summer : and L. autumnale. 
This last is a gem. It should be planted in August in sharp 
sand, and in a shady position. The blossoms forcibly remind 
one of the Snowdrop, to which, indeed, the plants are closely 
related. The flowers are, moreover, pleasantly fragrant. These 
bulbs may be accommodated in the mixed border, and should 
be planted in good bold groups. For the edges of shrubberies, 
also, they are useful, especially if partial shade is afforded in 
the case of L. cestiviim. A light and good soil should always 
be provided. These bulbs soon establish themselves. Z. vermwi 
should not be disturbed unless absolutely necessary, and then it 
should be planted at once. In grass it is a gem. 

LiLiUM. — To this genus belong the true Lilies, a name 
which has been popularly bestowed upon individual species 

of many genera. For decorative value, 
colour-range, stateliness yet gracefulness 
of habit, and fragrance, there are no 
bulbous plants that can compare with 
the Lilies proper. They extend over a 
wide geographical area, and, as hinted 
elsewhere, they naturally thrive under 
very varied conditions as regards soil. 
Taking the border kinds generally, how- 
ever, they may be truly said to flourish 
in any ordinary fairly rich, well-drained 
soil, if they are planted deep enough 
(4in. to 6in.), and at the correct time. 
No bulbs deteriorate more quickly than 
do the Lilies, and therefore the sooner 
they are inserted after being purchased, 
or after being lifted for renovating borders or 
beds, the better. Of late years the Lily 
disease has told heavily against the plants, 
and especially L. candidum, which, though 
one of our hardiest border kinds, has suftered 
terriblv from the scour^^e. Reference has 
already been made to one means of dealing 
with infected bulbs. Another way, which is 
said to give excellent results, is to cover the 
bulbs for a day in flowers of sulphur, taking 
care that the powder gets well between the 
scales. Autumn is the best time to plant, 
and, if possible, home-grown bulbs should be 
purchased from dealers of repute, as such 
take great pains to put on the market only what is likely to 
enhance their reputation. 

There are numerous ways in which Lilies may be grown to 
advantage, and the shrubbery border offers one of the best 




Fig. 215. — LiLiuM 

CANDIDUM. 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



339 



positions. The shrubs give just the sHght protection they require, 
and if mulched in dry seasons with manure, this is all the 
attention they need. Towards the end of autumn light litter 
may be placed over the tenderer kinds in the open border, 
for it is not every amateur who has garden enough to devote 
to a shrubbery, and the Lily should be always represented. 

By botanists the genus is sub-divided into several groups, that 
known as Martagon containing some of the hardiest species and 
varieties for the borders ; these vary alike as to height and 
colour. L. canadense is one of the peat-loving species, thriving 
well where it can be afforded some slight shade, as amongst 
Rhododendrons. When planting it will be found a good plan to 
cover the bulbs with sharp sand. The flowers are usually orange 
or red, elegantly spotted with brown. 
L. Martagon is the distinct Turk's 
Cap, the white variety being most 
esteemed ; 3ft. to 4ft. L. Szovitsiannm 
{inonadelphum) is another distinct 
species, bearing yellow flowers, dotted 
with brown, but showing plenty of 
variation. A deep and somewhat 
sandy loam is the soil for it ; but the 
cultivator must not be disappointed 
if it does not flower for a year or 
two. With this species in particular 
home-grown bulbs are a decided 
advantage ; 3ft. to 4ft. L. Humboldtii 
is a truly handsome Lily, with deep 
orange purple-spotted flowers, gracefully 
drooping ; 4ft. to 6ft. L. auratiun is 
one of the most popular of Lilies, and 
justly so ; its size, the variety in which 
it is found, and its handsome flowers, 
make it one of the most attractive 
flowers of the late summer garden. It is another of those species 
which thrive in a peat soil, sheltered by shrubs. If planted 
6in. deep, it will need nothing more than a mulching in 
winter, and will continue to flower for years ; 2ft. to 4ft. Next 
to L. auratum in popularity is the Madonna Lily (Z. candidum^ 
Fig. 215), which is grown by everybody, and whose fragrance is 
wafted from cottage-garden or from mansion pleasure-ground ; 3ft. 
Other desirable border kinds are : L. croceum^ a robust species, with 
showy orange flowers; 4ft. to 6ft. L. Browfti, with trumpet-shaped 
flow^ers, pure white inside, reddish-brown outside ; 3ft. L. bulbiferu7n^ 
crimson, very distinct, with the bulbils borne in the axils of the 
leaves. L. Thunbergianiun (Z. elegans, Fig. 216), a very variable 
species alike as to height and colour, orange-red prevailing ; these 
Lihes are most useful for the shrubbery border; ift. to 4ft. 

z 2 




Fig. 216. — LiLiuM 

ELEGANS. 



340 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 




L. tigrinum (Fig. 2 17) is an old inhabitant of cottage-gardens, and, on 
account of its ease of culture and accommodating nature, is always 

welcome. L. t. splendens is an 
improvement upon the type; 3ft. 
to 5ft. L. pardaliiium is a robust 
species, with bright orange-red 
flowers, spotted with purple. This 
is another kind which is best 
covered with sand at planting 
time. There are many forms 
met with in cultivation, all 
delighting in a liberal fare, that 
known as minor being very dis- 
tinct ; 3ft. to 7ft. Another good 
kind is Z. chalcedoniaim (the true 
scarlet Turk's Cap), with its intense 
scarlet turban-shaped flowers ; 3ft. 
Several others might be enumerated — 
L. rubescens and L. Washingio7iia7ium 
— and one is tempted to include such 
beautiful Lilies as L. speciosuvi {lanci- 
foliuni) Ki'cetzei'i and L. tenuifoliiim : 
but unless very favourably situated, 
they are likely to disappomt. Nor must L. rubellum (Fig. 218) 
be forgotten, as it promises to prove one of the hardiest for 
border culture, as it certainly 
is one of the loveliest, 
flowers are a beautiful 
with showy light 
yellow anthers, and 
deliciously fragrant. 
It, moreover, is an 
early species, flower- 
ing in June. For 
pot work it can also 
be recommended. 
The soil best suited 
to its requirements 
is a sandy loam. 

Lilies may be propa- 
gated in a variety of 
ways — by seeds, offsets, bulbils, 
and by scales. This last is a 
most interesting method, and 
valuable where it is desired to 
produce kinds absolutely true. 

The usual method is by offsets, which will flower in from three 
to five years, according to species and treatment. 

li 



Fig. 217. — LiLiuM 

TIGRINUM. 




Fig. 218. — LiLiUM rubellum. 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



^NIONTBRETiA. — See Tritonia. 

MuscARi (Grape Hyacinth). — Bulbous plants of great 'value 
in the outdoor garden, as they are early to flower, easy to 
cultivate, and bright as to colour. Being all of dwarf habit, 
they should, when grown in the border, be allotted a front 
position : but they look best when naturalised on a bank, their 
bright colours standing out well against the tender greens of 
spring. The brightest gem in the genus is J/, coniaim. a rich 
celestial blue, with a delicate fragrance, which latter considerably 
enhances its value. J/! armeniacum is a blue of a deeper 
shade, flowering rather late ; while M. monstrosiim (Feathered 
Hyacinth), an old garden favourite (purple lilac), M. Szovitsiamun 
(light blue), and J/, boiry aides pallidum grajidifiorum (pearl 
blue), are all worth growing. ]^Iuscari make nice pot plants. 
The bulbs should be planted in September, and propagation 
is eff"ected by offsets at the same season. 

Narcissus. — Just as no summer warden would be considered 
complete without its Lilies, so no spring garden would be 




Fig. 219. — Narcissus leedsii, Naturalised under Trees. 



furnished without its quota of Narcissi. No particular soil 
or position is required to successfully grow the majority, and 
all may be enjoyed if but the rudest of contrivances exist to 
give them shelter ; and it is this freedom from cultural com- 
plications which constitutes another of their chief charms. 
They are flowers of the people, and by them have been grown 



342 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



from the earliest times of which we have records of gardens 
being kept in this country. As pot plants, too, Narcissi excel, 
and elsewhere in this volume their adaptabihty to such a purpose 
will be considered. 

In border or on rockery, in shrubbery or in woodland, they 
are alike ornamental, and are fit associates for the finest of 
spring flowers. What a wealth of beauty may be had even in 
the first months of the year by planting in the mixed borders 
the earlier Daffodils, the bright Chionodoxas and Scillas, and the 
Snowdrop ! Individually, how different is each ; collectively, what 
a feast to the eye they present ! Those who know the Daffodil 
in its native haunts long to plant other varieties equally adapted 



In the borders the bulbs should be planted with no niggard 
hand, selecting the earliest opportunity for the operation. There 
is, however, another thing to be remembered : Narcissi must not 
come in contact with raw manure. Rather should they be 
planted in quarters from which, say, some earlier crop has been 
taken, but in a good loam, and sufficiently deep to be out of 
the reach of ordinary frosts. Some varieties will grow under the 
shade of trees, and no more effective way exists of displaying 
the delicate beauties of, say, JV. albicans^ Johnstonii Queen of 
Spain, Achilles, Von Sion, or J. G. Baker than under lawn trees 
whose shade is not too intense. Where Narcissi are growing 
freely in borders or in beds, it is a mistake to disturb them 




Fig. 220. — Narcissus Bulbocodium. 



to grassy slopes and 
stretches of lawns 
which are strangers 
to the gardener's 
scythe or mowing- 
machine — at least, 
until the naturalised 
plants have com- 
pleted their growth. 
Nature leads the 
way, leaving those 
who appreciate the 
truly beautiful and 
informal to follow in 
her train. Those who 
can afford to indulge 
their tastes thus 
should dibble in the 
bulbs in late summer 
as plentifully as they 
can : and in the 
spring the grass will 
be bejewelled with 
the yellow gems. 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



343 



annually, as do 
Once in three 
often enough 



IS 



some, 
years 
unless 

disease asserts itself, 
when it will be found 
an excellent plan to lift 
them and plant in quite 
fresh ground, virgin 
pasture loam if possible, 
and under the shade of 
trees. This applies to 
the whole of the Large 
Trumpet Daffodils 
{Magnicoronati group), 
which are such features 
of our gardens, and 
whose name is simply 
legion, also to Incom- 
parabilis, Barrii, early- 
flowering Poeticus, 
Burbidgei, Backhousei, 
Leedsii (Fig. 219), Tridymus, 

Besides representatives of 
botanists have divided the 




Fig. 221. — Narcissus Bicolor Horsfieldii' 

and the late-flowering Poeticus. 

the various sections into which 
genus, 



there 



are 



a 




small-flowering 
fragile 



Fig. 222. — Narcissus Madame de Graaf. 



host of 
kinds too 
to be risked in 
the mixed border, but 
whose beauty ought not 
to be lost. For these 
a place on the rockery 
should be assigned, and 
providing a suitable 
carpet-plant is provided, 
they will push up their 
sweet little flowers before 
winter's icy grip has 
released its hold. They 
should not be disturbed 
so long as they are 
doing well. In low-lying 
pockets in the rock 
garden might be tried 
N. Bulbocodium (Fig. 
220) and its varieties, ex- 
cept mojiophyllus (Hoop 
Petticoat), as well as 
N. cyclainineiis^ all of 
which are moisture - 



344 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 




lovers ; while in other pockets 
might be inserted N. nanus, N. 
minUnus, N. lobiilaris, N. triandrus 
albus, and N. ju7icifolius. All 
will not flourish, though sufficient 
wdll to justify the experiment. 
Many advocate the planting of 
N. Bulbocodhnji monophyllus, but 
this, though undoubtedly dainty, 
is not often a success, even where 
the best of conditions — a warm, 
sheltered position, and a rich, 
light soil — are forthcoming. To 
appreciate this pretty species at 
its true worth, it must be grown 
in a pot and kept in a cool 
frame or greenhouse, when, if well 
watered, the exquisite flowers 
will be produced in January 
and February. A dozen bulbs 
may be accommodated in a 5in. 
pot. 

The Magnicoronati are sub- 
divided into Yellow Trumpets, 
Yellow-and-White Trumpets, and 
and Double. Of the Singles, the 
following varieties are very typical : Glory of Leiden, Bicolor 
Horsfleldii (Fig. 221), Madame de Graaf 
(Fig. 222), and Mrs. J. B. Camm ; 
while in Doubles, Capax Plenus (Queen 
Anne's Daffodil) (Fig. 223), Plenissimus, 
and Telamonius Plenus may be men- 
tioned. This group has the crown as 
long as the perianth divisions. The 
next group, Parvicoronati (which includes 
the white Poet's Narcissus), embraces a 
lot of popular varieties whose dis- 
tinguishing characteristic is that the 
crown is less than half as long as the 
divisions of the perianth. To this group 
belong Burbidgei, Poeticus, Little Dirk 
(Fig. 224), and many another favourite. 
In the third group, Mediocoronati ^ we 
have the Chalice-cupped Daffodils, or 
Star Narcissi, which are characterised by 
the crown or cup being half as long as 
the perianth divisions, or in one or yig 
two cases as being three-quarters as 



Ftg. 223. — Narcissus Capax 
Plenus (Queen Anne's 
Daffodil). 



White Trumpets, both Single 




. 224. — Narcissus 
Little Dirk. 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



345 



long. These flower right up to May. Some good varieties are 
C. J. Backhouse, Gwyther (Fig. 225), Frank Miles, and Leedsii. 
A list of varieties for general purposes will be found in the 
" Appendix." 

Propagation is usually 
effected by offsets, which 
should be separated from 
the older bulbs, and 
planted out ; and by 
seeds. The latter process 
is, however, too long 
for the man of little 
leisure to undertake. 

Nerine {Loxanthes). 
— Though the com- 
monest species {N. 
sarniensis) is known 
popularly as the Guernsey 
Lily, it is not a native 
of that island. It can 
only be grown out-of- 
doors under especially 
favourable circumstances, 
as the leaves are pro- 
duced after the flowers, 
and, if not protected in 
some way, they are in- 
jured by frost The ^^g. 225. — Narcissus Gwyther. 

bulbs are on the market 

in late summer, and they should be planted at once. The 
blossoms are gorgeous, being of a bright scarlet, and produced 
in umbels. Some cultivators grow N. ciirvifolia major in warm 
borders, but it is usually wintered indoors. Propagated by 
offsets at planting time. As a pot-plant, N. sarmensis excels. 

Ornithogalu:\i (Star of Bethlehem). — A few species of this 
genus deserve to be mentioned, for if they are not showy, they 
provide gardeners with several good subjects not only 
for the rockery, the border, and the grass, but also for bare 
places under trees. They flower in either spring or early 
summer. O. nutans is much prized for cutting, as its silvery- 
grey colour, shaded with green, blends well with any other 
flower; it is about i5in. high, and will grow in either shade or 
sunshine. O. umbellatwn (true Star of Bethlehem) is another 
most useful species for under trees or grass, smothering the 
ground with its lovely white flowers. The plant usually sold 
as Star of Bethlehem in early spring is Allium 7ieapolita7iuni. 
Stately kinds, like O. pyraniidalt^ may be used with excellent 




346 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



effect among Andromedas and similar shrubs. The flowers are 
snowy white, and are produced in pyramidal spikes 2ft. to 3ft. 
high. These bulbs, which should be planted in late summer, 
should not be interfered with except for purposes of increase. 

Pancratium (Sea Daffodil). — Only one species of this genus 
is really hardy, and that in favoured situations, such as ad- 
vocated for Crinums. Indeed, P. illyricum may very well be 
treated on the lines suggested for the Crinums. Increased by 
offsets in autumn. 

PoLYGONATUM (Solomon's Seal). — Allied to the Lily of the 
Valley is the genus here named, several species of which might 




Fig. 226. — POLYGONATUM MULTIFLORUM. 



oftener be used, especially for shady nooks under trees, and for 
naturalising in woodlands. Indeed, gardeners might well take a 
lesson from Nature in respect of the adaptability of these plants 
for the last-named purpose, as at least three species are to be 
found growing in our woods — P. verticillatum^ P. officinale, and 
P. imiltifloruin (Fig. 226), the last two having double forms. Though 
the flowers cannot boast striking colour, they are neat in the 
extreme, and are, moreover, disposed in such a way that they 
have a grace which is all their own, and are succeeded by 
pretty if not showy fruits — usually of a purplish-black. Other 
good species are P. roseii?n, rose-pink ; P. oppositifoliunu w^hite, 
ribbed with red ; and P. pimctatum, white, lilac-dotted. There 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



347 



are several other species, but those named include all that are 
best in the genus. With the exception of P. oppositifolium 
(which is best given a place in a rockery), all may be success.- 
fuUy grown in shady places, if the soil is fairly good. They 
should be propagated by division in autumn or spring, or by 
seeds (which, as noted, are freely produced), sown when ripe. 
Polygonatums are largely used as pot plants for forcing, 
jP. variegatum being very effective. 

PuscHKiNiA {Adanisia ; Striped Squill). — A much-confused 
genus of liliaceous plants approaching the Scillas. The species 
is valuable on account of its early flowering, and constitutes " 
one of the brightest gems in the spring bulb garden. 
Given a sunny position, a light, rich soil, and a covering of 
.strawy manure in winter, these charming 
bulbs will be at their best in April. 
For rockwork it is also equally as well 
adapted as for the choicer parts of 
the mixed border. P. scilloides is 
4in. high, and bears light blue flowers 
striped with a darker colour; while 
the form compact a (Fig. 227) has its 
flowers more thickly produced. P, 
libanotica^ of many catalogues, is but 
a synonym of P. scilloides. These 
bulbs should be planted in autumn, 
and should be propagated by seed 
in September, as after four or five 
years the bulbs usually die, after the 
manner of Scilla sibirica. ■ 

Ranunculus (Crowfoot). — Elsewhere 
the Ranunculus has been dealt with as 
a florists' flower. All that need be 
added here are the few species and 
varieties which are suited to the mixed 

border or the rock garden. Few of them require any special 
treatment, so long as a rich, porous, fairly-moist soil is 
provided, allocating them a shady, rather than a sunny 
position. Well deserving a place in any garden is R. amplexi- 
mulis, which, though but ift. high, bears large white flowers in 
May that are highly prized for cutting. The leaves, too, are 
pretty with their glaucous hue. R. aconitifolius fiorepleiio (Fair 
Maids of France) is pretty, its snow-white flowers being produced 
very abundantly. R. gramineus is a magnificent species for 
either border or rockwork, its shining yellow flowers and silvery- 
grey foliage forming a beautiful combination. R. acris floix-pleiio 
{Bachelors' Buttons) is but a double form of one of our 
meadow Buttercups, but it is bright and distinct enough to 




348 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



merit a place in gardens. R. monspeliacus is a Buttercup, from 
the Mediterranean, with very large flowers ; being only ift. 
high, it is best planted on the rockery. R. Lyalli^ though 
generally grown as a cool greenhouse plant, may be suc- 
cessfully treated out of doors if afforded a sheltered position. 
Its flowers are white, of good substance, and with pretty stamens, 
and might very well be assigned a position on a rockery, where 
the conditions suitable to most of the Ranunculuses obtain. 
The planting should be done in late autumn, and if the follow- 
ing spring should be at all dry, the quarters should be given 
a good soaking. These species should not be disturbed. 

ScHizosYTLis cocciNEA (Crimson Flag; Kaffir Lily) is a lovely 
iridaceous subject with bright crimson Gladiolus-like spikes of 
flower. It is one of those subjects which require to be taken 
great care of when grown outside, and to receive plenty of 
attention in the matter of watering. Light soils will not grow 
this autumn-flowering gem ; but a west border and a fairly 
deep, rich soil will suit it admirably, if a slight protection is 
given it in winter. In height it grows from 2ft. to 3ft., and 

the spikes • are much valued 
for cutting. The plants 
should be inserted in early 
spring, grown on through 
summer, and towards autumn 
potted up for greenhouse 
decoration during winter. Or 
again, a frame might be 
placed over the plants in 
October, when flowers would 
be obtainable the following 
month. For pot work this 
plant is one of the best 
that can be named for the 
season of November. Pro- 
pagated by division in April. 

SciLLA (Squill). — For beds 
or borders the Scfllas are 
amongst the hardiest and 
brightest of spring-flowering 
subjects. Indeed it would 
be difficult to point to 
a brighter flower than ^. 
sibirica^ which flourishes so 
luxuriantly in a warm, sandy soil. It is a gem whose 
beauty should not be hidden. There are many other species 
valuable in their way. S. bifolia. in one of its numerous, 
varieties {S. b. taiirica to wit), should always be represented.. 




ox HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



349 



For naturalising, there is nothing better than S. nutans^ 
the Wood Hyacinth or Bluebell of our copses, and its white and 
red forms resembling in shape 
the Lily of the Valley ; and S. 
hispanica {campanulata) (Fig. 228) 
and its white form (alba). They 
are strong growers, and can hardly 
be too freely planted, especially in 
grass, while they rank among the 
very best bulbous subjects for 
planting under the shade of the 
larger trees ; they flower in late 
spring. S. italica is another bright- 
coloured species, flowering in late 
spring ; it is sweetly fragrant, 
flowering in summer, are two or 
should be found : .5. peruviana 
are perfectly hardy, and are 




Fig. 229. — SciLLA peruyiaxa. 



summer; and 6'. autiiin?taHs, purple-blue, 
Scillas make capital pot plants, and 



Distinct and beautiful, and 
three sorts for which room 
(Fig. 229), S. p. alba, which 
handsome border plants in 



flowering in autumn, 
are very frequently 
employed as room 
plants, the bright 
flowers of say sibi- 
rica and bifolia being 
much appreciated in 
spring. 

Hardy Scillas may 
be planted about 
3in. deep in autumn, 
and are best not 
interfered with for 
several years, unless 
the soil shows signs 
of exhaustion. With 
these, as with Cro- 
cuses, however, this 
difficulty is best got 
over by periodical 
top-dressings of good 
manure. Propagated 
by offsets taken in 
late summer, or by 
seeds, the latter, of 
course, being a some- 
what slow process. 

SiSYRiNCHiuM (Satiu Flower). — K not very popular genus of 
iridaceous plants, though there are one or two species which 
have great claims upon the gardener's attention. Those in 




Fig. 



230. — SiSYRINCHIUM GRANDIFLORUM 
ALBUM. 



350 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



commerce are usually grown in the borders or on the rockery, 
a sandy loam being preferable. .S. grandifioriwi (purple) and 
S. g. album (white) are charming when used in combination, 
their gracefully-sheathing leaves being light and delicate (Fig. 230). 
These like a somewhat shaded situation; S. benjmdia?ium is of 
dwarfer growth, and bears violet flowers. The season of 
flowering is in early summer. They should be planted in 
October, and are best propagated by division of the roots. 

Spar AXIS. — Cape of Good Hope bulbs of exceeding beauty, 
but, like their relatives the Ixias only to be grown in favoured 
positions outside. If, however, such can be assigned them, they 
should undoubtedly be tried. S. puk/ierri??ia (now known as 
Dierama piilcherrima) has bell-shaped flowers, numerously 
disposed on thin, graceful stems, 4ft. to 5 ft. high. They vary 
considerably as to colour, the most striking being striped, and 
are produced in summer. Propagated by offsets. 

Sternbergia (Mount Etna Lily). — Hardy bulbs, yet but little 
known in gardens, though extremely useful. Three or four 



late autumn. 

TiGRiDiA (Tiger Flower). — Another genus of bulbs, several 
kinds of which should be accommodated in the outdoor garden if 



Fig. 231. — TiGRiDiA pavonia alba. 




species are in cultivation, 
the best known being S. 
lutea (Winter Daftbdil ; 
Yellow Star Flower). It 
is a Crocus-like flower, 
produced in late autumn, 
and some good patches 
brighten up the garden 
at that season. There 
is a variety of it {Fischer- 
iana) which flowers in 
spring. Of late years 
there has been intro- 
duced another very 
handsome kind in 
inacrantha^ bright yellow, 
flowering in autumn. 
Sternbetgias thrive best 
in a warm, sandy loam 
and a sunny position. 
They should be planted 
in autumn, affording the 
bulbs a little protection 
in winter. They are 
impatient of disturbance. 
Propagated by offsets in 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



a suitable position can be found them. They delight in sunshine 
and a light, fairly rich soil. Though gorgeous as to flower, their 
beauty is short-lived ; but the time over which the flowering 
period extends more than compensates for the ephemeral 
nature of the individual flowers. It is safer to lift these bulbs 



1 




Fig. 232. — Varieties of Tritonia (Montbretias). 



when thoroughly ripe in October, and store them in a dry, cool 
place in sand until April, than to leave them in the soil all 
winter. T. pavonia (syn. T. conchifiord)^ yellow, with scarlet 
markings in cup ; T. p. grandiflora^ brilliant scarlet, with yellow 
markings; I . p. alba (Fig. 231), white, spotted with carmine; 



352 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



T. p. liliacea^ clear rose ; and T. p. i7?imacuiata alba^ pure white, 
are real gems. There is also a species of recent introduction in 
T. Pringlei. It is a Mexican plant of great beauty, the flowers 
being large and of a glossy scarlet. Still more recent is T. Van 
Ifouttei, with small bronze-black flowers. A bed of Tigridias in 
blossom is a sight not likely to be forgotten. 

Trillium (Wood Lily). — North American plants of distinct 
appearance, and valuable subjects for moist, shady nooks in the 
ordinary garden or for similar positions on rockeries. They 
flower in spring, and should be freely planted, especially T. grandi- 
Horiwi^ snowy-white, set amidst pretty foliage. Another very 
desirable sort is T. sessile calif or 7ticum^ creamy-white, with spotted 

foliage ; while T. recur- 
vatiun, purple, marbled 
foliage, and T. stylosujfi, 
rose-pink, are very pretty. 
Trilliums should be 
planted in autumn and 
not be often disturbed ; 
propagated by division. 
The petals, calyces, and 
leaves being arranged in 
threes have also earned 
for this genus the popular 
name of Trinity Flower. 

Tritonia (including 
Afontbretia). — In this 
genus are found some 
graceful and showy plants 
flowering in summer. 
Those usually catalogued 
as Montbretias are the 
most popular. The foliage 
Fig. 233.-TULIPA Kaufmanniana. partakes of that of the 

Gladiolus, and the blos- 
soms are some shade of orange, and valuable lor cutting. The 
Montbretia section of the genus are best planted in autumn, lifted 
annually, and replanted at once in fresh soil, discarding the old 
and exhausted roots. This is by no means necessary, as excellent 
results are frequently obtained by leaving the bulbs undisturbed 
for two or three years. T. Pottsii and the variety grandiflora 
are very decorative ; but the best kinds are the garden forms 
of T. crocosmiflora (Fig. 232) (itself of garden origin, being a 
cross between T. Pottsii and Crocosmia aurea), which are far 
and away superior to the type. Varieties to be recommended : 
Bouquet Parfait, Pluie d'Or, Etoile de Feu, Rayon d'Or, 
Transcendant, Tigridie, Sulphurea, and Eldorado. 




ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



353 



Tritonias proper are 
not adapted for the 
outdoor garden, though 
in the South and West 
of England, T. crocata 
and its varieties would 
doubtless succeed in 
a warm part of the 
garden. They should 
be planted in October. 
As a rule, however, 
they are best given 
the shelter of a frame 
laying well in the sun, 
the bulbs being covered 
with sand. 

TULIPA (Tulip). — 
The merits of the 
Tulip as a florists' 
flower have been dis- 
cussed in an earlier 
chapter. There are, 
however, a number of 
desirable species which 
ought to find a place w 




Fig. 234. — TuLiPA acuminata. 



herever possible. 




Fig. 235. — TuLiPA macrospeila. 



Of late years a wave 
of popularity has set 
in in their favour, 
and there has been 
a tendency to plant 
species rather than 
florists' varieties. 
One result of this 
has been the intro- 
duction of several 
new kinds, which 
promise to surpass 
in brilliance of 
colour and general 
utility many of the 
older species. These 
species should be 
planted in good 
bold groups, or in 
masses where it will 
not be necessary to 
lift them to make 
room for summer 
occupants. In such 
2 A 



354 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



places they may be allowed to remain for three years, provided 
there is no sign of deterioration in the bulbs. Propagation 
is effected by offsets. The smaller-growing kinds are admirable 
for rockwork. 

Where there are such a number of kinds worthy of considera- 
tion as is the case with Tulip species, it will only be possible 
to call attention to the best of the group : T. Batalini^ soft 
yellow ; T. Cliisiana, white, striped red, and violet base, 
excellent for a warm part of the rockery ; T. Eichleri^ bright 
scarlet, bordered with yellow, for sunny spot ; T. Gj^eigi, 

vermilion - red, with 
dark basal spot, one 
of the best for a 
sunny, dry position ; 
T. Gesnerianci spathu- 
laia {T. G. vera), rich 
scarlet, blackish centre ; 
T. Kolpakozvskiana, a 
Central Asiatic species 
of great brilliancy (ver- 
miUon-red, blotched at 
base) ; T. Kaufmaji- 
7tiana, large flowers of 
a creamy-white, with 
yellow blotch in centre 
(Fig. 233); T. retro- 
flexa, soft yellow ; T. 
elegants, bright red, with 
yellow eye ; T. saxa- 
tilis^ rose-pink, with 
yellow eye ; T. 0?^J>ha- 
nidei, orange - yellow, 
black centre ; T. Leicht- 
linii, coral-pink outside, 
and white inside ; T. 
prcEcox, crimson, black 
centre ; T. acuminata, 
yellow, streaked with 
red, the petals being thread-like (Fig. 234) ; T. macrospeila (Fig. 
235), shining bright scarlet, with black and yellow centre, fragrant; 
and T. vitellina, pale yellow, as the specific name denotes. 
From T. platystigma the Parrot Tulips (Fig. 236), now 
so highly esteemed, have been evolved. These, however, in poor 
soils, are apt to revert to their parent. There are also many 
forms of what are known as May-flowering Tulips, which ought 
not to escape the attention of growers. One of the best is 
Picotee, with its white recurved petals, elegantly margined with 
rose (Fig. 237). 




Fig. 236. — Parrot Tulip. 



ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS. 



355 



Vallota purpurea (Scarborough Lily). — A beautiful Cape 
bulb, suited to a warm, sunny border. It should be planted 
6in. to yin. deep in May, and not be disturbed again till 
absolutely necessary. The flowers are large, brilliant scarlet, and 
funnel-shaped. Excellent for pots. Propagated by offsets. 

Zephyranthes (Flower of the West Wind ; Zephyr Flower). — 
Though seldom seen out of doors there is one representative 
of this graceful genus that may be so cultivated. This is Z. 
Candida. All that it requires are a sunny spot and a light yet 
fairly rich soil. The Crocus-like flowers are produced towards the 
end of summer, and are of a pure white. The bulbs should be 
planted in late autumn, and are propagated by seeds or by offsets. 




Fig. 237. — TuLTPA Picotee. 



2 a 2 




glances at the lovely landscapes of these Isles ; yet it is only 
during recent years that there has been a general awakening to 
the previously known utility of the trees and shrubs of our 
own and foreign lands for garden decoration. The tree- and 
shrub-life of foreign climes has adorned our gardens ever since 
travellers began to send over things which they considered 
worthy of use here. Japan, China, New Zealand, the 
Himalayas, and other temperate lands contribute trees which 
rank amongst the most beautiful objects of the garden and park, 
and some of them are becoming so familiar that we are almost 
led to believe they are indigenous. We cherish trees, too, 
for their varied forms ; some are erect, as the Lombardy Poplar ; 
others are like the spreading Oak and the purple-leaved Beech ; 
while the Willow touches the water's surface with its slender 
branches : a delightful variety indeed, and indispensable in the 
well-planted garden. 

A hundred shrubs also are at hand to embellish the English 
garden ; shrubs of beauty in some form, whether it be their 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



357 



flowers in spring and summer, or their foliage in autumn, when 
Nature paints them with crimson, brown, yellow, and other rich 
tints. We may select from among the ornamental Plums, 
Deutzias, Mock Oranges, the sea-loving Escallonias, Cytisus, 
Berberis, Diervillas, Olearias, Spiraeas, Kalmias, Azaleas, and 
many others, the individual requirements of which we have con- 
sidered under their proper headings. But variety is useless if 
good taste is wanting. A common shrubbery is usually a place 
in which beautiful things are crowded together without reason, 
throttling each other in their endeavours to reveal their true 
characters. The cultivator's aim should be to let everything in 
the garden tell its own tale, and he should never forget that 
in bold grouping the most artistic picture is secured. It is 
colour-effect that the planter should most think of, avoiding 
unpleasant contrasts. We have often wondered that the majority 
of gardeners and others have never dipped more deeply into the 
rich store-house of trees and shrubs, but have confined them- 
selves to a few kinds, which one wearies of because so frequently 
repeated. One misses the variety that a good selection gives, 
not only in form, but also in colouring, from the silvery-grey of 
the Willow, through shades of green, to even the deepest 
purple ; while, in the form of the leaf, we see the same wonder- 
ful range. 

Amongst deciduous kinds for winter effect we would specially 
mention the yellow-stemmed Willows and Ash, the red- 
barked Cornus, Willow, and Berberis, the silver-barked Birch, 
Rubus (Bramble), and in a less degree the silvery Poplar and 
the native Sea Buckthorn. The Alders, Willows, and Nuts are 
also effective, because of the freedom with which their elegant 
catkins are borne on the leafless branches. 

Of trees and shrubs that blossom during the winter the 
following are specially meritorious : A good-sized plant of 
Chimo?ia7itJms fragrans (Winter Sweet), with its deliciously- 
scented blossoms, is always welcome in December ; while the 
elegant and pendulous catkins of Garry a elHptica, borne at the 
tips of the evergreen shoots, the fragrant Lonicera Sta?idishii, 
Arbutus (Strawberry Tree) of sorts, and the naked - flowered 
Jasmine {Jasminu?}i nudifioruni) are of great value at this season. 
The deciduous Daphne {D. Mezereum), with its white- and pink- 
flowered varieties, Haniamelis arborea (Japanese Witch Hazel), 
Viburnum Tinus (Laurustinus), the white- and pink-blossomed 
Heaths {Erica carnea and E. c. a/ba), as well as Berberis 



358 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

japonica,, are too precious to pass by unnoticed. These are 
followed by a couple of exceptionally free-flowering Rhododen- 
drons, viz., R. dau7'icum and R. prcecox. Pj-ujius Davidiajia^ 
one of the most charming of early spring-flowering trees, is 
generally in blossom about the middle of February. Although 
not showy the clusters of small yellow flowers of Cor?ius mas 
(Cornelian Cherry) are effective, especially if a suitable back- 
ground of evergreen shrubs is afforded. 

Amongst spring-flowering trees and shrubs are many gems 
suitable for decorative planting — Forsythias, Pieris (Andromeda), 
Nutiallia cej^asifonnis, Pyruses, Magnolias (deciduous), the 
fragrant Coi-ylopsis spicafa, Almonds, Peaches, Cherries, Plums, 
Thorns, and Amelanchiers are a few of the spring-flowering 
treasures. 

Some trees and shrubs are conspicuous for the splendid 
colours assumed by the leaves before they fall off, and in this 
respect Quei-cus coccinea (Scarlet Oak), Q, conferta, Q. 7-ubra^ 
Azaleas, Acer rub?'in?i, A. ci7'dnatum^ A. palmatum varieties, Rhus 
typhina, R. coti?ius, R. glab?-a, Berberis Thu?ibergi\ B. vulgaris^ 
Eiwnyi7ins at7'opu7pii7'eus^ Vibu7'7iu77is, A77iela7ichier canade7isis, 
C7-atc?giis punctata^ C. p7'U7nfolia, C. cocci7iea, Liquida77ibar 
sty7-acifliia, Pa7'rotia pe7'sica, Cor7ius alba^ C. flo7'ida^ Styrax obassia^ 
Py7-us to7'77ii7ialis^ Liriode7id7-on tiilipife7'a^ and Vitis (including 
A77pelopsis) of sorts, are a few of the most striking. 

One of the most delightful groups of hardy trees and shrubs 
may be composed of berry-bearing kinds, and planters would do 
well to introduce these more freely into pleasure-grounds, parks, 
&c. A suitable list will be found further on. 

The trees and shrubs hereunder enumerated have been divided 
into several groups, and the deciduous kinds have been kept 
separate from the evergreens. Sections on Weeping trees. Berry- 
bearing kinds. Wall shrubs, (S:c., may be of service to those 
requiring trees and shrubs for certain purposes. 

Planting. 

The subject of planting or transplanting is of great importance 
to those having anything to do with the cultivation of hardy 
trees and shrubs, as the success or failure depends in 
a large degree on the way in which such details are carried 
out. It should not be forgotten that if a tree or shrub is worth 
planting, it should be carefully treated. Ground for the 
reception of ornamental trees should be properly drained, if not 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



359 



naturally so, and trenched. It must, however, be remembered 
that trees and shrubs differ as regards the kind of soil most 
suitable for them. Some are naturally deep-rooting, and others, 
like the Heath family and its allies, may be taken as examples 
of surface- or shallow-rooting subjects. Such shrubs as the 
deciduous Daphnes are best planted as quickly as possible 
after the fall of the leaf in autumn, as root-action com- 
mences soon after Christmas, which would be interfered with if 
planting were deferred until spring. 

Opinions differ greatly as to the best time to transplant trees 
and shrubs. Some prefer early autumn, some March, and others 
April and ^Nlay. We believe, however, in autumn planting, as 
then the temperature of the ground is higher than is the case 
either in mid-winter or in early spring, and the trees are enabled 
to make fresh roots and establish themselves in their new 
quarters before winter. Besides, they are better able to 
commence growth in spring without feeling ill effects. Any 
time between September and March will do so long as the trees 
are in a condition to be lifted, ordinary care is taken in the 
operation, and provided, of course, that the ground is in a 
proper state to receive them. 

Planting in dry, windy weather is not advisable, as evaporation 
then goes on much more rapidly than is the case when the 
weather is mild and dull. It will therefore be seen that the 
conditions most favourable for planting are when the atmosphere 
is damp or moist. It is not a good practice to transplant in 
mid-winter, as the ground at that period is very cold. Neither 
should transplanting be done or attempted in frosty weather. 

With regard to seedlings that have been growing in seed- 
beds, or autumn-rooted cuttings, spring will be found the best 
time for planting these out in nursery rows in soil suited to 
their requirements. Until well established they should be 
watered dailv. 

Evergreens, especially Hollies, Yews, Bays, Portugal Laurels, Szc, 
may be transplanted with safety in April and INIay. They should 
always be lifted with good balls of earth, and the roots interfered 
with as little as possible ; but they should never be exposed to 
drying winds, which injure the small fibrous rootlets. They 
should not be kept out of the ground longer than is really 
necessary, and if any of the roots should get bruised, the injured 
parts should be cut away at once, because if allowed to remain 
they might decay, and be the means of causing others to die ; if 



36o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



a sharp knife be used in cutting the roots the damaged parts 
will soon heal over. 

In the case of trees which are required to travel long 
distances, the roots should always be protected from dry, 
parching winds by means of mats, tiffany, hay, or any such 
material. Holes for their reception should have been previously 
prepared, and be larger than the ball of earth attached to the 
roots, which latter should be spread out carefully in all 
directions, so that they will be in a position to take up 
nourishment from all sides ; besides, by fixing the trees more 
securely in the soil, they are better able to withstand boisterous 
winds. The soil at the base should be loosened, and the 
distance between the trees will depend on the size, kind, and 
object for which they are intended. It sometimes happens that 
the ordinary soil of the garden is not suited to certain kinds 
of shrubs, in which case the indifferent soil should be taken 
away and replaced by some favourable to the well-being of 
the subjects it is intended to plant. The too common mistake 
of huddling the roots up together should be avoided, and the 
disadvantages of too deep planting cannot be too strongly 
condemned. Manure in any shape should never be placed in 
immediate contact with the roots, as it will do more harm 
than good ; it should be incorporated with the soil. 

The importance of regular transplanting in a young state, 
especially such as belong to the Fir tribe, does not seem to 
be sufficiently understood, or is not carried out to the extent 
it should be. It frequently happens that trees get too big 
or bulky for certain positions, and it becomes necessary to 
lift some of them, in order to give those that are left more 
room to develop. If transplanting has not been properly 
attended to in the early stages, the chances of successfully 
moving them is considerably minimised unless extra care is 
taken in the operation. 

Trees that are " mop-headed," or top-heavy, should be supported 
by stakes, and securely tied immediately planting is completed, so 
as to prevent them from being blown over in windy weather. It is 
wise, especially if planting be done in the spring, to give a good 
watering to consolidate the soil about the roots, and if water 
is applied to the foliage by means of a garden engine or 
syringe, the trees will be greatly assisted in making fresh roots. 
In the case of trees that are impatient of disturbance at the root, 
it is an excellent plan to mulch after transplanting with decaying 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



361 



leaves, light litter, &c., which not only protects the ground 
from frost, but prevents the escape of heat and moisture. 

Shrubs grown in pots are not a success as a rule, for the 
reason that the roots are matted together through too close 
confinement. We have noticed how much more vigorous are 
shrubs lifted from the open than those turned out of pots, 
except in the case of delicate kinds that need protection in 
early life, but such as these should never be planted in the 
open, air unless the situation is peculiarly favourable. Planting 
from pots may be carried out at almost any season, but 
that is the only advantage, and this is not a practice for general 
recommendation. 

Pruning^. 

This is an all-important subject, yet one unfortunately both 
little understood and neglected. To properly prune the various 
trees and shrubs several points must be considered, such as 
habit, health, and purpose for which they are intended ; also if the 
flowers are produced on the previous or current year's growth. 
Site and soil are also important. 

In borders that are planted with mixed shrubs pruning is 
essential to keep the too vigorous growth within bounds, and 
to both protect and encourage weaker kinds. The shrubbery 
border should be examined at least twice a year, and not 
allowed to remain unattended for protracted periods. 

In pruning flowering shrubs the object should be to 
improve their general appearance and to encourage greater 
freedom in blossom. To accomplish the latter, one must some- 
times sacrifice growth, especially if the shrubs have been 
neglected in the early stages, as like fruit trees they should 
be carefully attended to whilst young, when it is easy to lay 
in a good foundation. Old worn-out, sickly, and useless wood 
should be removed, and young vigorous shoots encouraged. 

The subject may very well be discussed under two heads : 
(i) spring pruning, and (2) summer pruning. The point that 
troubles many lovers of hardy shrubs is to distinguish between 
the two sections. Roughly speaking, shrubs whose flowers are 
produced in winter or spring should be pruned iaimediately 
the flowers are over, so that they may be encouraged to make 
new wood early and thus become matured before winter. 

The charming Winter Sweet {^Chimo7ianthus fragrans) is a 
typical example of a winter-flowering shrub. In February the 



.^62 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



flowering wood should be cut back to an eye of the old wood, 
and the worn-out growths removed altogether. Garry a elliptica 
should be pruned in early spring, the object being to encourage 
vigorous growths, "which, if properly ripened, will flower freely. 
Of Honeysuckles, Lonicera fragra?7tissima and Z. Standishii should 
have their old wood thinned out in March. The Winter Jasmine 
{Jasminum nudifloruiJi) should be attended to about the same time, 
and if the plant be growing against a wall the main shoots should 
be secured thereto, and the smaller growths allowed freedom : 
its effect when in blossom is much prettier than when all the 
shoots are nailed to the wall. 

Portugal Laurels are best pruned in April, and the Holly 
in March or August, as there is time for the wounds to heal 
before growth ceases. With Forsythia suspensa the weak growths 
should be cut away, and the strong shoots shortened as soon 
as the blossoming period is over, as shoots 6ft. in length will 
result, and carry flowers freely the following spring. The Ever- 
green Cratocgus Py?'aca?2tha should have its weak growths thinned 
out in early spring, and vigorous growths from the base laid in to 
take the place of the old shoots. Clusters of berries will thus 
be borne at the bottom, as well as at the top of the plant. In 
the early summer the overcrowded shoots of Olearia Haastii 
should be thinned out, and Mahonias (Barberries) may be treated 
in the same way at the same time. Rhododendrons do not as 
a rule require much pruning beyond a thinning out of the over- 
crowded delicate shoots after flowering is over. The seed-pods 
should always be removed unless seed is required. 

As the flowers of Cydonia japonica are borne on short spurs 
along the old wood in March and April, pruning must be 
done when necessary in the last-named month, and only the 
very old wood should be taken away, as a too free use of the 
knife with this early-flowering shrub robs it of much of its 
beauty. Deutzias, Cytisus, Genistas, Spiraeas, Escallonias, Phila- 
delphus, Ribes (Flowering Currants), Syringas, Loniceras, 
Wistarias, Viburnums, &c., should have their vigorous shoots 
shortened, and delicate growths removed after flowering. The 
knife should be used sparingly with such things as Kalmias, 
Pieris (Andromeda), Vacciniums, Azaleas, Ledums, &c. The 
majority of the evergreen ornamental shrubs are best pruned in 
summer. 

Clematises need special attention, as the flowers are produced 
upon difl"erent kinds of wood. The herbaceous sorts, such as 




I 



ox TREES AND SHRUBS. 



C. diversifolia, C. recta, and C. Davidiana should be cut down 
to the ground in autumn, while those belonging to the Viticella 
and Jackmanni sections are best pruned to within Qin. of the soil 
in November. The Lanuginosa, Montana, and Florida types 
flower from June to October, and these should be pruned in 
February, removing the whole of the weak, overcrowded shoots, 
and a part of the old flowering wood. 

Certain shrubs are improved by close pruning. Paidoivma 
imperialis is a case in point. If the whole of the wood be cut 
•down in the autumn to a few eyes, strong shoots will be thrown 
up in spring, the most vigorous of which should be selected and 
the others removed. Treated thus, P. imperialis makes a good 
lawn shrub, planted either singly or in a group. The Golden-leaved 
Elder is much improved by severe pruning, as its young shoots are 
■of a richer yellow than when left unpruned. Willows, Amorphas, 
■Coluteas (Bladder Sennas), &c., may be kept within bounds by a 
free use of the knife. The Stag's Horn {Phus typhina) bears 
pruning well, and if compact plants are desired close pruning is 
necessary. Hydrangea paniculata hoj'tensis {H. p. grandifiord) 
•should be pruned in February, and the whole of the previous 
year's wood cut back to a single eye, as hard pruning is 
■essential if large, well-formed panicles of flowers are desired in 
autumn. With regard to most of the other Hydrangeas, a 
thinning out of the shoots will be ample. 

Conifers should not be pruned in winter ; the best time is spring 
■or summer, as the trees being then in growth the wounds quickly 
heal. Conifers generally, however, require very little pruning. 
The Larch and Pine families are, for instance, apt to bleed freely 
if pruned when in full growth. Conifers should be moulded into 
shape when young. Such trees as Cedriis Deodara, C. Libani, 
and Tsiiga canadensis {Abies canadensis) frequently throw up 
delicate, pendulous leaders, and are apt to become flat-headed 
unless the side-growths are shortened when young, and more 
strength thrown into the principal leader. 

Deciduous Trees and Shrubs. 

Abelia chinensis {A. rupestris) is a charming dwarf shrub, 
not planted half so much as it ought to be. Its clusters of 
small sweet-scented pale pink flowers are borne in profusion 
towards the end of the pendent shoots during August and 
September. Though by no means particular as to soil, it 
produces the greatest display when planted in rich well- drained 
loam and good leaf-mould. 



364 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



AcANTHOPANAX RiciNiFOLiUM {Arulia MaximoiviczH) has large 
deeply-lobed rich green leaves, set on long petioleSo It is of 
distinct growth, with an erect stem, and in its native habitat is 
said to reach a height of Soft. A. spinosum {Ara/ia pentaphj/la, 
Panax spinosu77i) is a dwarf shrub with deeply-cut bright green 
leaves ; it needs a sheltered corner and rich soil to do it justice. 
A. s. variegata is a handsome form having pale green leaves 
edged and splashed with cream-white, but it is rather tender. 

AcERS (Maples) are ornamental trees of good growth, and 
well adapted for hiding unsightly views. They require plenty 
of air, and do not make satisfactory specimens when cramped 
for room. The flowers are mostly of a greenish-yellow shade, 
are borne in racemes, and are succeeded by attractive winged 
fruits ; while the foliage changes in autumn to shades of yellow, 
orange, and red; and in this respect Acers stand in the front 
rank of trees conspicuous for their autumnal beauty. A. mac?'o- 
phyUiim is a fast-growing kind, and succeeds well on dry soils. 
Its leaves are large and handsome. A. diaboUcum (A. pulchrum), 
a native of Japan, bears in early spring numerous short racemes 
of large greenish-yellow flowers ; it is a free-growing tree, with 
stout branches and large. Plane-like leaves. A. craiagifolmm^ 
also indigenous to Japan, forms a slender tree, conspicuous for 
its small deep green Hawthorn-like foliage. A. c. Veitchi is an 
attractive sort, with variegated leaves ; very uncommon and 
quite hardy. A. hyrcamim (A. caiicasicu7n\ from the Caucasus, 
forms a compact specimen of rather slow growth ; its rich green 
leaves set on bright red petioles are heavily shaded with yellow 
in autumn, and covered with a brownish tomentum on the 
under-sides ; they are very pleasing in autumn when turning to 
a reddish-brown shade. A. pennsylvajiicum (A. stj-iaiuni)^ the 
Snake-barked Maple, is very conspicuous by reason of its green 
bark being striped with white ; it is a native of the United 
States, very ornamental, and grows luxuriantly in dry soils. 
A. sacchai-iniiin (Sugar Maple) is a handsome, free-growing, North 
American species, bearing some resemblance to the well-known 
Norway Maple ; its leaves, covered with whitish powder on the 
under-surface, are very effective, especially in autumn, at which 
time the colour changes to a warm rose tint. A. Heldreichi is of 
erect growth, with finely-cut leaves. A. argutiim is a distinct 
and elegant Japanese species, of medium height, quite 
hardy, and very uncommon in this country ; its palmately-lobed 
leaves are set on long footstalks. A. dasycarpum (Silver Maple) 
is a beautiful park tree, with rich green palmate leaves glaucous 
on the under-surface ; it is of fairly rapid growth, and one of 
the best Acers for avenues. A. circinatum^ a North American 
tree of short stature, is well adapted for planting where the 
taller ones would be out of place ; its leaves change to bright 
scarlet in autumn ; a capital sort for dry soils. A. monspessulaiiiijn 



ox TREES AXD SHRUBS. 365 

is freely branched, and grows about 2o[t. high; its bright 
green leaves are set on long footstalks : it is very ornamental, 
by no means common, and thrives better in gravelly soils than 
most of its congeners. A. plafanoides Tiibruin has distinct 
reddish-bro^Yn foliage : very effective in the landscape. A. p. 
globosum is rather slow in growth, and forms a neat round- 
headed tree ; well adapted for extended culture. A. p. 
Schii^edleri is of good growth, with broad bronze-green leaves set 
on long bright red petioles ; very effective in autumn. A. pictum 
rubrum (A. colchicum I'ubrum) is a choice tree of vigorous growth, 
with conspicuous brownish-red bark and glossy-green leaves, 
which in summer assume a purplish-red hue. intensifying in 
colour till they fall off in autumn. A. rubrum {A. coccineuvi)^ 
the Scarlet ^Nlaple, ranks as one of the finest of American Maples 
for its autumnal tints ; it grows about 20ft. high, of rather 
slender habit, and its green, deeply-lobed leaves change to 
shades of orange and red in September. A. Pseudoplatanus 
flavo-margi7iatum has pale green leaves, mottled and edged with 
white. A. P.p. Webbianuni has similar leaves to those of the 
last-named, but the tree is of more vigorous growth. The purple 
foliage of A. P.p. atropuipureuvi is very rich : this variety 
deserves to be planted extensively in parks and pleasure- 
grounds. A. P.p. Leopoldi has pretty variegated leaves set on 
red petioles; it is distinct and handsome. A. P.-p. elegan- 
tissiinum variegatuiii. a sport from the last-named, is without 
doubt the best of the recently-introduced Sycamores. In habit 
it resembles the type, being free in growth, quite distinct, and 
very ornamental. In spring its leaves are suffused with rose- 
pink on a cream ground, and in some cases they are irregularly 
splashed with green. "Where vigorous trees with showy foliage 
are required this Sycamore should be noted. A, Negmido 
variegatuvi is one of the most charming of hardy trees, with 
silver-coloured foliage, and is a favourite tree for the villa garden; 
it succeeds well in dry soils, and does not lose colour in the 
sun. It may be grown either as a bush, or as a standard, worked 
on the green-leaved kind. A. P\\ elegans is much freer in growth 
than the last-named ; its stout light green shoots are covered 
with a glaucous bloom, and the pale green leaves irregularly 
bordered and splashed with yellow, change to cream-white with 
age ; a fine decorative tree. A. JV. crispum and 2^ A. N. 
laciniatum are also noteworthy. 

For elegance of habit, colour, and variety of foliage, no hardy 
shrubs can compare with the varieties of the dwarf-growing 
Japanese Maple {A. pal??iatu??i). Although some of them have 
been grown in British gardens for a considerable time, they have 
not been much planted. No doubt their absence may be due 
to the fact that they were looked upon as a trifle tender. Their 
hardiness is, however, beyond question, and we are familiar with 



366 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



plants that have withstood several degrees below zero without 
showing any signs of injury. What they do object to, and 
this should be remembered at planting-time, are north and 
east winds ; this difficulty can be overcome by selecting a 
position sheltered from cold winds. All the Japanese Maples 
mentioned below make splendid pot subjects for conservatory 
and room decoration, as well as pleasing lawn trees. They 
thrive in ordinary soil, provided it is well drained. A. pal- 
jiiatum (A. polymorphum) is a well-known kind, having deep green 
leaves, shaded with yellow and rose in autumn. A. p. aiireiim 
is strikingly handsome, with rich yellow foliage. A. p. roseo- 
has deeply divided leaves, pale green, edged with 
A. p. saiigiiiiieum has leaves a trifle larger than the 
type, and of a rich crimson hue. The leaves of A. p. atro- 
purpureum are of a beautiful bronzy - purple shade; it is a 
vigorous grower. A. p. dissectum (A. p. palmatifidiini) is a dis- 



marginatum 
rose-pink. 



tinct and beautiful form, with 
sub-variety, ornatiim^ also has 



green fern-like leaves 
fern-like leaves 



light 




Its 

but of a rich 
shade of 
bronze - purple. 
A. p. septem- 
lo bum has 
beautiful foli- 
age of a tender 
shade of green. 
A. p. s. e/egans 
is very orna- 
mental; the 
beautifully- 
lobed leaves 
undergo 
various changes 
of colour, from 
pale green, 
through pink 
and crimson, 
to dull red. 
A. p. s. lacijii- 
atum is dis- 
tinct, elegant, 
and of 



growth 



Fig. 238. — ^^^scuLUs Pavia. 



good 
Its 

soft green 
leaves are 
touched with 
rose. 



^scuLUS. — The value of ^-E. Hippocastanuni (Horse Chestnut) 
for park decoration is well known, and as an avenue tree it 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



c. Brioti makes a 
rose-coloured flowers, 
finest of the family, 
native of the Western 



is second to none. It is not over-partial to wet soils, a rather 
rich loam, moderately dry, suiting it admirably. H. flore- 

pleno is a fine variety with double flowers ; its spikes of flowers 
are large and massive, and remain in condition for a long time. 
It is later in coming into blossom than the type. ^-E. carnea 
(^. riLbicunda) is a North American species, and grows about 
20ft. high. It is valuable in gardens where the first-named 
species would be too big. Its bright scarlet flowers are produced 
on stout spikes, and stand well above the deep green foliage. 

medium-sized, well-balanced tree, with deep 
It is very floriferous, and one of the 
y^. indica (Indian Horse Chestnut), a 
Himalayas, is a lofty, much-branched tree, 
and bears abundantly thyrsoid panicles of white flowers blotched 
with yellow and red at the base. flava {Favia bicolor) is a 

yellow-flowered kind, distinct and ornamental. yE. parviflora 
{Pavia macrostachya) is a handsome small-growing tree, suitable 
for small gardens ; it is also useful 
for planting as an isolated speci- 
men on the lawn. Its long 
racemes of white flowers are very 
beautiful, and borne with much 
freedom. Ai,. Pavia {Pavia rubra, 
Fig. 238) is of dwarf habit and 
slender growth, and carries slender 
panicles of bright red flowers. 
yp. californica {Pavia californica^ 
is somewhat scarce in gardens, but 
very handsome. It is rarely seen 
more than 15ft. in height, and is 
very pretty about midsummer when 
laden with its pale rose-coloured 
flowers. 

AiLANTUS GLANDULOSA (Tree of 
Heaven) is of rapid growth, and 
its divided leaves are deep green, 
and often 5ft. long. It succeeds 
well in dry soils, and as it grows 
to a height of 60ft., it is more 
adapted for the park than for the 
garden. It may also be used with 
good effect in sub-tropical garden- 
ing if treated as recommended for 

Paulcwnia imperialis. 

Fig. 239. — Alnus glutinosa. 

Alders {Ai/uis) are specially suit- 
able for damp soils, and when planted near water produce a telHng 
effect in spring, when their elegant pendulous catkins (Fig. 239) 




368 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

are displayed on the leafless branches. A. ghiiinosa aurea has 
strikingly ornamental foliage, especially in spring, and this does 
not get burnt by hot suns. A. g. imperialis (fern-leaved), 
A. g. laciniata (cut-leaved), A. cordifolia^ A. cordata^ A. pubescetis^ 
A. viridis, and A. oregona are useful decorative kinds. 

Amelanchiers. — In the months of April and May these are 
laden with their graceful racemes of snow-white flowers, and 
when planted in conjunction with some of the pink-flowered 
Pyruses, Almonds (Prunuses), or Thorns, produce a pleasing 
effect. A. canadensis {A. Botryapium ; Mespilus canadensis) varies 
in height from 20ft. to 40ft., and a good-sized tree in full 
blossom is very beautiful. It is also effective in autumn, as its 
leaves assume a rich shade of golden-yellow. This kind should 
be increased by layering, as then the plants flower freely when 
I Sin. or 2 ft. high, and in such a condition are well adapted 
for planting in distinct masses. A. c. oblongifolia is the last of 
the group to blossom. It is of bushy habit, and carries a 
wonderful profusion of white flowers on short racemes. Fine for 
massing. A. alnifolia (Dwarf June Berry) grows about 8ft. or 
9ft. high, and is specially valuable for small gardens. It is a 

lovely free-flower- 
ing shrub, and 
particularly at- 
tractive in late 
summer by reason 
of its brilliant- 
tinted foliage. 
A. vulgaris is 
another excellent 
kind, of free 
growth. The 
Amelanchiers suc- 
ceed in ordinary 
soil. 

Amorpha fru- 
TicosA (False 
Indigo), from the 
South United 
States, grows 
freely in dry soils, 
and bears spikes 
of bluish-purple 
flowers in summer. It is of upright habit, and grows about 
6ft. high. A. catiescens (Lead-Plant) is distinct, with grey 
leaves and slender panicles of dark blue flowers that are borne 
in September, on which account room should be found for it 
in the garden. 




ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



Aralia spinosa (Anglica Tree) retains its large compound, 
leaves till frost sets in, and although its yellowish-white flowers 
are small, they are produced in such great quantities as to give 
it a distinct and handsome appearance. It is quite hardy and 
vigorous in growth, and as it blossoms in late autumn is 
specially valuable for public parks and pleasure-grounds. Its 
leaves and stem are provided with short spines. It should never 
be cramped for room, as its real beauty is seen only when 
allowed freedom in growth, a free circulation of air, and when 
planted in moist, rich soils. A. chinensis {Dimorphanfhus mands- 
- churicus ; Aralia mandschuricd) (Fig. 240) also delights in a moist, 
warm soil, and, although hardy, protection from north and east 
winds should be secured for it. Its large bipinnate leaves are com- 
posed of small ovate leaflets, and the creamy-white flowers are 
produced in terminal panicles. 

Azaleas. — See Rhododendrons. 

Berberis. — The Barberries form a delightful group. Not only 
are the numerous varieties beautiful when in flower in spring and 
autumn (when the foliage changes to shades of crimson, chocolate, 
and orange), but they are also attractive when covered with fruit 
in winter. Ordinary soil is suitable, and a select list should 
contain some of the following: B. vulgaris foliis-purpureis is one 
of the most charming of dark-leaved shrubs ; it grows freely, and 
keeps its colour well. It is best increased by cuttings, layers, 
or division, as a great percentage of seedlings revert to the 
type. Planted in masses, and cut down annually, it throws up 
vigorous shoots with rich purple foliage. B. v. asperma is an 
old but by no means common shrub ; it forms a stout bush, 
and in autumn, when laden with its immense crops of bright 
scarlet berries, is one of the most desirable of berry-bearing 
shrubs. B. v. aetnensis forms a dwarf bush with peculiar zig- 
zag branches and stout spines ; its flowers are produced freely. 
B. V. a?nurensis, B. v. fructu-aibo, and B. v. macrocarpa are 
also showy. B. aristata grows into a stout bush, with brownish-red 
spreading branches and shining green serrated leaves ; its bright 
yellow flowers are produced on long stalked racemes and are 
succeeded by red berries, which hang on the bushes until the 
middle of winter, at which time its brightly-coloured bark is 
effective. B. siitensis is an elegant Chinese species, and bears a 
wonderful profusion of flowers, which are followed in autumn 
by attractive berries, and as the leaves die off a rich crimson 
colour it is valuable for autumn effect ; it grows about 6ft. high, 
and has been cultivated in this country since 1815. B. Lycium, 
from the Himalayas, is a valuable Barberry, of distinct growth, 
with upright slender branches and narrow glaucous leaves ; the 
flowers are borne in erect racemes with great freedom ; it is a 
distinct and uncommon species. The most beautiful in autumn • 

2 B 



370 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



IS a Japanese species named B Thunhe?'gi, which forms a dwarf, 
compact, much-branched bush, with small pendent flowers and 
tinv pale green leaves, which are brilliant crimson, orange, and 
yellow in autumn ; this is a first-rate subject for small gardens, 
as well as for planting in front of taller-growing shrubs. 
B. virescens and B. cojiciujia are effective. B. angulosa is beautiful 
in the autumn, the foliag:e dvins; off a crimson-scarlet colour. 

Birches {Betula) are scattered over Europe, Asia, Japan, and 
North America, and vary from mere bushes to trees nearly 
looft. high. Few trees, either exotic or native, are more 
beautiful than our own British Birch {Betula alba^ Fig. 241). 

Its elegant pendulous branches are 
clothed with leaves of the tenderest 
green in spring and summer, and in 
winter its erect slender silver trunk 
adds a touch of colour to the land- 
scape. It grows to a height of about 
60ft. There are many forms of the 
Common Birch, and the following 
list comprises some of the most 
ornamental : B. a. pii?-purea is of 
drooping habit, with dark purple 
leaves ; distinct and handsome. 
B. a. fastigiata is of free, distinct 
s:rowth : in habit it resembles the 
Lombardy Poplar. B. a. dalecarlica 
{B. laciniafa) should be included in 
a list of select trees ; the smooth 
green leaves are deeply cut and 
lobed. B. Ie?ita (Chern.- Birch) 
reaches a height of 70ft., and forms 
a round-headed tree : with a2;e the 
branches droop graceful!}-. B. Maxi- 
?fioii'itzii, one of the latest additions 
to the Birches, is very ornamental, 
free in growth, and quite hardy : 
it is a Japanese species with large 
leaves — much larsjer than those of 
anv other Birch — and has rather 
dull orange-coloured bark. B. ?u'gra 
(Red Birch") loves a moist soil, such 
as on the margins of lakes and 
streams, and is well adapted for 
-public parks and gardens: its rough, picturesque trunk is 
handsome. B. occidcntalis (Black Birch) also delights in damp 
soil ; it is of elegant habit, with long, pendulous branches, and 
dark sreen bark. B. populifolia {B. acinnhiafa) and B. papy- 
.rifera^ 2xt useful for the park. B. nana is ver}- distinct : it 




Fig. 2 41. — Betula alba. 



ox TREES AND SHRUBS. 



is of dwarf habit, rarely exceeding 3ft. in height, and succeeds 
admirably in boggy soils : useful for the shrubbery. B. friiticosa 
grows 4ft. taller than B. nana, and thrives under identical 
conditions. The Birches are very accommodating, and grow 
freely in poor soils. 

C-ESALPixiA JAPOXICA (C sepiaria) is a somewhat rare shrub, 
introduced from Japan about forty years ago. It is quite hardy 
in this country, and delights in a peaty, well-drained soil and a 
sunny position. It is of spreading habit, with soft green leaves, 
composed of numerous small pinnules. The long, nearly erect 
racemes bear from twenty to thirty rich yellow flowers, which 
contrast well with the red anthers. A useful shrub for 
massing. 

Calophaca wolgarica {Colutea wolgarica) thrives in sandy 
soil, and bears numerous racemes of yellow pea-shaped flowers 
from June to August, these being succeeded by brownish-red 
seed-pods. It is a low-growing shrub, and suitable for the 
front of the shrubberv. It mav also be worked on the 
Laburnum, several feet above the ground-line ; and if planted 
at intervals amongst low-growing shrubs, produces a pleasing 
effect. 

Calycanthuses. — Though not numerous, these comprise shrubs 
with dull red, deliciously-scented flowers. They thrive best in 
partial shade, and delight in a rich moist loam. C. floridiis 
(Carolina Allspice) is an old inhabitant of our gardens, having 
been grown in this country since 1726 ; it is generally met with 
as a low bush, but in suitable situations will grow 8ft. high. 
C. glaucus (C. fertilis) is indigenous to the mountains of North 
Carolina, and of much the same habit as the last-named ; the 
flowers are, however, less aromatic, and of a deeper shade of 
purple. C occidentalis (C. macrophylliis) is a delightfully sweet- 
scented shrub, with large deep crimson flowers and ample bright 
green leaves ; it grows about 6ft. high. 

Caragana arborescens (Siberian Pea-Tree) grows freely, and 
flowers abundantly in dry soil ; it blossoms in quite a small state, 
and succeeds well in smoky districts ; its pea-shaped flowers are 
bright yellow. C. Redowski is remarkable for its elegant habit ; 
its fl.owers, although similar to those of the type, are borne on 
long thin branches. C. frutescens, also indigenous to Siberia, 
bears very freely its pea-shaped flowers in ^lay, although in some 
seasons it blossoms in April. It forms a roundish bush, of up- 
right habit, and grows about 5ft. high. C. microphylla {C. alta- 
ga?ia), C. pjgmcsa, C. spinosa, and C. tragacanihoides are attractive 
also. 

Carpixus (Hornbeams) are ornamental trees of good growth 
in ordinary soil. C. Betiihis is well known, but the cut-leaved 

2 B 2 



372 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



form, C. B. asplenifolia (C. B. laciniata), is less common, 
and very distinct. C. B. purpurea, C. B. pyramidalis, 
C. carolijiiana {C. americana), and C. cordaia, are also deserving 
of attention. 

Caryas are beautiful park trees, and delight in rich soil and 
plenty of head-room. As they make few fibrous roots, and do 
not transplant easily, it is a good idea to set the nuts in the 

places where the plants are to 
„ remain. A few of the best kinds are 

^^^^^'^^ folia), C. sulcata {C. cordifoj-inis), 

C. amara, and C. porcma. 

Caryopteris Mastacanthus is a 
somewhat scarce but pretty Japanese 
or Chinese shrub, with pale blue 
flowers (Fig. 242) that are borne in 
autumn with great freedom. It is of 
free growth, and delights in full ex- 
posure to the sun and in being out 
of the reach of cold east winds. 

Castanea sativa (C vesca) (Fig. 
243), the sweet Spanish Chestnut, 
is a familiar park tree, but its silver 
{albo - marginata), yellow {au7'eo- 
viarginatd), and cut-leaved {Jaciiiiatd) 
forms are less known, although 
decidedly ornamental. Other good 
kinds are C. dentata and C. creimta. 
They succeed best when planted in 
sandy loam. 

Catalpas are noble trees, beautiful 
in both foliage and flower. C. big- 
nonioides (C syringcefolia) is a native 
of North America, and has been in 
British gardens about 200 years : it 
is hardy in most parts of England, 
assumes a spreading form, and grows 
to a height of about 30ft. Its leaves 
are bold and bronze-tinted, whilst 
its flowers are borne freely in erect spikes at the points of the 
growths. They are white, flushed with puce, and dotted with 
purple in the yellow throat. C. b. aurea has golden-yellow 
leaves, which keep their colour throughout the summer,' and do 
not get burnt by hot suns, as do those of so many variegated 
shrubs and trees. C. cordifolia (C. speciosa) is of vigorous growth 
and hardier than C. bigno7iioides. The soft green heart-shaped 
leaves, as well as the large white flowers mottled with purple and 




ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



373 



yellow in the throat, are distinct and handsome. It is the first 
member of the genus to flower. The Catalpas flourish in moist 
soils, and are first-rate lawn trees. 

Cercis siliquastrum (Judas Tree) about the middle of May 
bears rose-coloured flowers with great freedom on the brown 




Fig. 243. — Castanea sativa. 



stems (Fig 244). It is a strange and picturesque dwarf 
tree, and is happiest when planted in a rather damp, rich 
loam. 

Chionanthus virginica (Snow Flower, or Fringe Tree) is a 
native of North America, whence it was introduced in 1796. 
It delights in a moist loam and a shady situation, and its fragrant, 
pure white flowers, with long, narrow petals, are borne in pendent 
clusters in May. As it is difficult to increase from cuttings it 
may be grafted on the Common Ash in March in the open 
air, or raised from imported seed. It is useful for forcing. 



374 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



C. V. latifolia and C. retusus may also be mentioned, but in 
point of beauty they are inferior to the first-named. 

Clematis (non-chmbing). 
— This much-neglecced, yet 
beautiful group of Cle- 
matis, is deserving of 
more extended culture, 
as it affords a goodly dis- 
play of variously -coloured 
flowers in early summer 
and autumn. Those here 
mentioned are thoroughly 
hardy, needing no pro- 
tection whatever, and as 
they are easily accommo- 
dated, many a border could 
be made more attractive 
were they more generally 
cultivated. The best results 
are obtained when planted 
in a deep, moist, rich soil, 
as the roots are numerous, 
and go rather deeply into 
the soil. C. aromatica is 
a delightful shrub, with 
small, sweet-scented, violet 
flowers, produced in sum- 
mer and autumn. It grows 
about 5ft. high, and is 
sometimes labelled C. 
ccEridea odorata. C. integrifolia^ a European species, bears its 
showy blue flowers from June to August, and C. De Durand, 
a hybrid between the last-named and C. lanuginosa^ is particularly 
handsome, with large dark violet flowers. It grows about 4ft. 
high, and flowers profusely and continuously for about four 
months. C. Freinonti hails from North America, and bears purple 
drooping flowers. C. recta {C. erecta'), an old species, bears a 
wonderful profusion of small fragrant white flowers in dense 
branching corymbs, which remain in beauty for some considerable 
time. It is a gem for the border, and delights in full exposure 
to the sun's rays. C. heraclecefolia (C. tubulosa^ is a Chinese 
species of free growth, with broad deep green leaves, and in 
summer bears clusters of tubular-shaped purplish-blue flowers. 
C. h. Davidiana is an improvement on the last-named, and 
valuable for its attractive blue flowers. 




Fig. 244. — Cercis siliquastrum. 



Clerodendron trichotomum is an autumn-flowering shrub, 
quite hardy, vigorous, and very handsome. Planted in rich soil 



ox TREES AND SHRUBS. 



375 



it grows into a bush loft. high, having numerous stout branches 
clothed with large dark green leaves that are particularly showy 
in autumn when fading to a reddish-brown, crimson, and orange. 
Its deliciously-scented white flowers, with a rosy-purple calyx, 
are borne in large terminal cymes in September. C. fa'tidum 
(C. Bungci) should only be planted in the open air in very 
favoured localities. It is better adapted for the unheated 
greenhouse. 

Clethras. — AVhen planted in peaty soil and a sheltered nook, 
these grow well and flower abundantly. They form neat bushes, 
and all bear racemes of fragrant flowers of various shades of 
white. They are suitable for planting in the front of the shrubbery, 
as well as by lake or stream-side. C, almfolia (Alder-leaved 
Pepper Tree), from Xorth America, forms a loose bush 4ft. or 
so high, and about the middle of July bears an abundance of 
flowers at the points of the branches. C. a. tomefitosa merits 
attention principally on account of its lateness in flowering. It 
is distinct and pretty, grows about 4ft. high, and from July to 
the middle of October bears a profusion of pure white flowers 
which are considerably larger than those of the type. The 
following are excellent kinds : C. a. scabra, C. canescens, and 
C. aciimijiata. 

Colutea arborescens (Bladder Senna) thrives under the 
same conditions as the Caraganas ; it grows about loft. high, 
and bears yellow pea-shaped flowers, succeeded by soft green 
bladder-like legumes, which change to a reddish colour by the 
time the seeds are ripe. C. crue?ita (C. sajigiiinea) is a quick- 
growing species with bright green leaves and reddish-coloured 
flowers. C. istria (C. microphylla] and C. melanocalyx are also 
showy. 

CoRNUS (Dogwoods) are effective dw^arf shrubs and small trees, 
and as some of them thrive under the shade of tall-growing 
trees their value is enhanced. Some are conspicuous on account 
of their variegated foliage, others by reason of their showy 
flowers, whilst a few are effective in winter, as then the slender 
bright red-barked branches give colour to the landscape. 
C. florida {Benthamia florida) (Fig. 245) is not so well known as 
it might be. It is rather difficult to get it properly established, 
but once it is so, its pure white flowers are borne freely every 
year about April. The leaves in autumn change to brown and 
yellow. It loves a sunny spot. C. f. rubra is a desirable shrub, 
with rose-pink flowers. C. macrophylla (C brachypodd) is a 
strikingly-handsome Dogwood, with large rich green leaves, 
heavily tinted with orange-red in autumn ; the clusters of white 
flowers are produced in the early summer. C. m. variegata is 
a pretty silver-leaved shrub, deserving of extended culture. 
C. Kousa (Be?ithamia iapotiicd) is another lovely white-flowered 



376 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



shrub that should be noted by the planter ; it is of good growth, 
and very hardy. C. alba should be planted for winter effect, 
preferably in groups in front of taller-growing shrubs. After its 

leaves have fallen, the 
bare red stems create 
a rich colour-picture. 
One of the most effec 
tive of variegated shrubs 
is C. a. SpaetJii (C 
sibi?'ica Spaethi). The 
pale green leaves are 
striped with yellow, and 
irregularly bordered with 
golden-yellow. C. alter- 
nifolia^ C. circinata^ 
C. sa?igui?iea, and C. 
officinalis are good Dog- 
woods, too. C. mas 
(Cornelian Cherry) is 
of tree-like habit, and 
in February and ]\ larch 
is particularly notice- 
able when bearing its 
clusters of tiny yellow 
flowers ; it thrives well 
in sandy soil. 

CoRYLUS AVELLANA ATRO-PURPUREA (Purple-lcavcd Nut) is a 
handsome shrub or small-growing tree, with crimson-purple foliage. 
It may be grown in either bush or standard form, and for planting 
in shrubberies where silver-leaved or pale green shrubs pre- 
dominate, its value is considerable. In order to secure large and 
richly-coloured leaves, hard pruning should be practised yearly. 
C. cohunia {C. arboi-ea) is very ornamental when displaying its 
long showy catkins. C. heterophylla (C Sieboldia?ia) and 
C. 7'ostrata are noteworthy. 

CoTONEASTERS. — See " Berr5'-bearing Trees and Shrubs." 

Crataegus (Thorns) form a group of considerable importance 
amongst low-growing trees, and may be cultivated in gardens of 
restricted area. They grow in almost any kind of soil, and either 
when covered with their fragrant white, pink, or red flowers in 
spring, or when laden with showy berries in autumn and winter, 
are highly ornamental. The following are a few of the best 
kinds : C. cocciiiea is the scarlet-fruited North American Thorn, 
and grows to a height of from 20ft. to 30ft. ; its white flowers are 
produced in May, and its deep green cordate leaves turn in 
autumn to rich crimson. Its effect in winter is very fine. 
C. c. macrantha is a vigorous Thorn with a spreading head, and 




Fig. 245. — CoRNus Florida. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



377 



on account of the rich autumnal tints should be planted freely 
in public gardens and parks. C. Aza7'olus is of vigorous growth, 
and frequently reaches a height of 20ft. ; its white fragrant flowers 
are borne in May, and ils orange-red fruits are large and 
effective in autun-^n. C. A. A?'07iia {C, Aroma), popularly called 
the Aronia Thorn, is a native of the Levant, of good growth, 
and bears a large display of white flowers in June. It is a 
conspicuous object in the landscape in autumn when laden with 
its large yellow fruit. It is a grand law-n tree. C. monogyna 
is free in growth, and of a distinct, pendulous habit; when in 
full flower it is very beautiful. C. m. crantoneiisis has larger 
flowers of a purer white, and is of elegant habit. C. m. stricta 
is somewhat similar in growth to the Lombardy Poplar, and for 
gardens of limited size should not be overlooked ; the w^hite 
flowers are borne with moderate freedom. C. m. fiexiiosa, C. m. 
sempe7'fiorens, C. m. Regijics^ and C. m. prcecox^ are show^y. The 
leaves of C. Crus-galli arbutifolia turns to a brilliant crimson in 
autumn, and for this reason the variety should be planted 
extensively. C. C.-g. ovalifolia^ C. C.-g. liitearis, C. C.-g. fontan- 
esiana, C. C.-g. pyracanfhifolia {salicifolia\ and C. C.-g. splendens, 
are very ornamental. C. oxyca?ithoides flore-pleno 7'osea (double 
rose-coloured Thorn) is one of the most delightful of June- 
blossoming shrubs ; its flowers are borne with great freedom, and 
continue long in perfection. C 0. florepleno cocciiiea (double 
scarlet) should be planted freely in the park and garden ; like 
the last-named, its bright red flowers remain long in beauty. 
C. 0. lucida produces a wealth of double white flowers, and makes 
a capital companion to the last-named. The flowers of C. 0. 
flore-puniceo are single, red, very attractive, and borne freely. 
C. 0. atrofiisca is a beautiful weeping Thorn, with medium- 
sized pure white flowers. C. hetej^ophylla {C. viultiflord) is a 
dense-headed tree of low growth ; its white flowers are borne 
early in spring, and it retains its leaves until early winter, 
while its crimson fruit is efl*ective, and hangs on the tree 
for the greater part of the winter. C. coi'data (C. acerifolid) 
is a handsome American species, with a round top and shining 
green leaves, which, in September, turn to crimson-scarlet ; the 
white flowers are produced in dense terminal corymbs late in 
the season. C. orieiitalis {C. odoratissima and C. flabellatd) 
grows 20ft. high w^hen treated generously; it is freely branched, 
slightly pendulous, and one of the latest to start into growth in 
spring, but when mantled with w^hite blossom is delightful. 
C. pinnatifida, a choice Thorn, bursts into leaf early in spring, 
and is conspicuous in autumn, when its decaying leaves take on 
shades of yellow and brown. Its fruits are large and attractive. 
C. parvifolia is a valuable late-flowering Thorn. It is rather 
slow in growth, and prefers partial shade to full exposure. It 
forms a low, much-branched tree, armed wdth very long sharp 



378 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



spines, and produces freely its large white blossoms about the 
beginning of June ; while the greenish-yellow fruits hang on the 
trees for the greater part of the winter, C. pyrifoUa is meritorious 
by reason of its large, handsome, Pyrus-like leaves. It bears an 
abundance of white flowers in June, and drooping clusters of 
orange-tinted fruits in October. C. Douglasi, from North West 
America, grows about 15ft. high, and is conspicuous for its 
leathery leaves, and small dark purple fruits. C. spathulata is 
well adapted for small gardens, as it is rather slow in growth, 
and rarely exceeds 12ft. in height. It forms a neat tree, with 
elegant branches, and in May and June, when bearing its white 
flowers, is very handsome. Its attractive fruits are bright red in 
colour. Few Thorns retain their foliage longer than this one. 
C. tatiacetifolia (Tansy-leaved Thorn), a distinct and handsome 
species indigenous to Greece, ranks amongst the best of the 
late-flowering kinds. Its deeply-cut greyish leaves and fragrant 
flowers are very welcome, while its large yellow fruits are pleasing 
in autumn. 

Cytisus. — This genus comprises several useful garden shrubs. 
As most of them are very free-flowering, and not particular as 
to soil, they should not be forgotten. C. albus (white) and 
C. scoparius (yellow) produce masses of colour, and Andre's 
Broom — C. s. Andreanus {^Genista Aiidreana) — is effective when 
planted in groups. The last-named is useful for forcing, and 
when grafted on the Laburnum makes a compact head, and 
comes into flower in advance of those on their own roots. For 
open-air planting it will be found to answer better on its own roots. 
C. s. pendulus deserves a place in the rock garden ; it has 
large rich yellow flowers. C. capifatiis, a European species, 
bears an abundance of rich yellow flowers in June, and in some 
seasons the lateral growths produce another display in autumn ; 
it is very hardy, and grows from 3ft. to 4ft. high. C. bifiorus 
{C. elongatiis and C. ratisbonensis) is very beautiful; its yellow 
flowers are produced in threes along the whole length of the 
shoots ; it grows about 4ft. high. C. nigrica?is {Lembotropsis 
nigricans)^ Black Cytisus, has been cultivated in this country 
since 1730. It is a neat-growing Austrian species, with trifoliate 
leaves, and bears erect racemes of bright yellow flowers with much 
freedom from June to the early part of August. C. prcEcox 
( C. purgans x C. albus) is a delightful dwarf shrub, producing its 
cream-coloured blossoms in early summer. Planted in masses 
on the grass, and with the lower shoots pegged to the ground, 
it is, when in flower, distinct and pretty. This kind is best 
increased by cuttings, as the majority of plants raised from, seed 
revert to the White Broom (C albus). C. purpureus is of 
interest for its dwarf habit and free-flowering qualities ; its small 
purple flowers are borne from May to August, and quite distinct 
from all its congeners. When worked on the Laburnum^ 4ft. or 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



379 



5ft. from the ground, it forms a pretty weeping shrub; but when 
grown on its own roots, it rarely attains more than a few inches 
high, for which reason it should always find a place in the rock 
garden. C. p. alhus is a white-flowered form of the last-named, 
and quite as hardy. C. shipkaensis has clusters of pure white 
flowers at the apex of the growths, which are very useful for 
cutting. C. austriaais ( C. bajiaticus) forms a neat bush, 2ft. 
high, with clusters of yellow flowers from July to September. 

C. Ardoini is fine for the rock garden, as it is of dwarf habit 
and very free-flowering. C. kewensis {C. Ardoini x C. albus) is 
quite prostrate or creeping in habit, and bears its cream-white 
flowers freely ; it is a beautiful rock shrub. C. piirgans is an 
uncommon garden shrub ; less vigorous in growth than C. prcecox. 
It is a native of South-West Europe, and although introduced 
to this country as long ago as 1768, it is even now rarely 
met with. It is a neat, low-growing species, and in May and 
June, when laden with its golden-yellow blossoms, is very 
pretty. 

Daphnes. — The type of the deciduous group, D. Mezereum, is 
a European shrub of great value in the garden in early spring, 
and one deserving of more extended culture for its delightfully 
fragrant reddish-purple flowers, which are produced so abundantly 
along the whole length of every branch. It loves a cool, moist 
soil and an open position, but it is by no means averse to 
partial shade. Beautiful effects are obtained when planted in 
groups on the grass, using as a carpet such things as Gaultheria 
prociimbens and Butcher's Broom. There are a few excellent 
varieties differing from the type in the colour of the flowers and 
the time of flowering, the principal of which are D. M. fiore-albo 
(white) and D. M. grajidiflora {autiivinalis) (bright red). The 
flowers of the last-named sometimes appear in October, and if 
the winter is mild a display of blossom is kept up until spring. 

D. Genkiva {D. Fortimei) is a beautiful and uncommon 
Japanese species, with long, slender, gracefully-arching shoots, 
upon which are borne sweet-scented lilac-coloured blossoms in 
early spring. This is well adapted for forcing into flower for 
conservatory decoration during the dull winter months. 
D. alpifia is a pretty alpine species, suitable for the rock garden, 
as it rarely exceeds 2ft. in height. It is a close-growing, much- 
branched shrub, and in ^larch and April produces its small, 
fragrant, blush-coloured flowers. 

Deutzia.- — Though not large, this genus contains several easily- 
grown and handsome-flowering shrubs. D. crenata {D. scabj-d) 
grows in good soil to a height of about 8ft., and when its shoots 
are laden with racemes of pure white flowers its beauty is 
evident. The double white flowers of D, c. florepleno are 
suffused with purple, and borne very freely. D. c. Pride of 



38o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Rochester has double white flowers ; it is of erect habit, and 
very distinct. D. c. punctata deserves a place on account of its 
pretty variegated foliage — pale green, striped with white and 
blotched with dark green, D. parviflora is the first to flower 
in the open air; it is a native of Northern China, and makes 
a dense bush 5 ft. high ; the creamy-white flowers are produced 
in profusion. D, corymbiflora is a new kind, of elegant habit 
and wonderfully free-flowering ; the pure white flowers are borne 
in graceful panicles, and last in good condition for a long 

time ; a very valu- 
able addition. . D. 
gracilis is the most 
generally cultivated 
member of the genus ; 
it is perfectly hardy, 
of slender growth, 
2ft. high, very free- 
flowering, and valu- 
able for forcing. 
Another dwarf- 
habited kind, but of 
stronger growth than 
D. gracilis^ is D. 
Lemoinei^ also use- 
ful for forcing ; it 
is a very handsome 
variety, and excep- 
tionally floriferous, 
the small white 
flowers being borne 
in compact trusses. 

DiERViLLAS. — Few 
dwarf-growing shrubs 
are more easily 
grown, or create 
better efl'ect, than 
the Diervillas (Wei- 
gelias or Bush 
Honeysuckles). 
Fig. 246. — DiERViLLA Van Houttei. Planted in beds on 

the turf, or in front 

of taller-growing shrubs in the border, they succeed and 
look well. They like rich, well-drained soil, and an annual 
top-dressing of leaf-mould increases the floral display. The 
thin, flowerless shoots should be removed. A good selection 
should include some or all of the following : amabilis is of 
good growth, and bears an abundance of rose-coloured flowers 
in early summer. Van Houttei (Fig. 246), carmine shaded red 




ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



and mottled white. Abel Carriere is very fine ; the rosy- 
carmine flowers are large and freely produced. Beranger, rose- 
purple, yellow throat. Eva Rathke is very handsome ; flowers 
rich purple, almost crimson : the plant is of good habit, 
and flowers continuously. Jean Mace is another beautiful 
kind, with larger and deeper-coloured flowers. rosea is a 
general favourite, its rose and white flowers being produced 
with exceptional freedom, and Stelzerni, with its dark red 
flowers, is equally attractive. Candida and hortensis nivea are 
the best of the white-flowered kinds ; not only are the flowers of 
the purest white, but they are borne with more than usual 
freedom. Both are desirable shrubs for forcing. Some kinds are 
conspicuous for their yellow and variegated foliage, especially 
those named Amabilis variegata and Looymansi aurea. The 
leaves of the former are edged and striped with white. The 
latter is one of the showiest of golden-leaved shrubs ; it should 
be planted in a sunny spot, and never allowed to want for 
water during dry weather ; before the leaves fall they are heavily- 
shaded with brown. 

Enkianthus campanulatus is of Japanese origin, with 
slender branches and small, ovate, oblong serrated leaves ; the 
pretty pink flowers, striped with red, are produced in clusters. 
E. japonicus should also be included ; it is of good habit, and 
the rich green leaves turn to a deep orange colour in autumn. 
The drooping flowers are pure white and borne freely. These 
plants succeed best in a moist, peaty soil and a sheltered 
situation. 

EucRYPHiA PINNATIFOLIA (Brush-Bush) is a very handsome shrub 
from Chili, where it is said to grow to a height of about 15ft. 
Its deep glossy green pinnate leaves and pure white flowers, 
with golden stamens in the centre, are very beautiful. It 
blossoms in July and August, and is perfectly hardy near 
London, but should be planted in a warm spot so as to insure 
proper ripening of its wood to withstand severe winters and 
promote full annual flowering. It is attractive in autumn when 
its leaves are shaded with orange. Good drainage is essential, 
and a soil composed of loam, leaf-mould, and rough peat, suits 
it well. 

EuoNYMUS. — See "Berry-bearing Trees and Shrubs." 

ExocHORDA. — This is a small genus closely allied to the 
Spiraeas, and succeeds under similar treatment. The best-known 
member of this ornamental group is the Pearl Bush, E. grandi- 
flora {Spircea grandiflora), frequently used as a wall-coverer, but 
as it is quite hardy it may be planted as an isolated specimen 
on the fringe of the lawn with excellent results. It is a Chinese 
plant and bears racemes of pure white flowers each as large as 
a two-shilling piece on all the well-ripened growths in May, at 



382 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



which time it is particularly handsome. E. Alberti, a rare and 
delightful white-blossomed shrub, is fortunately also hardy, and 
may be described as superior to the type. 

Fagus.— For pleasure-ground planting the Beech {Fagus 
sylvatica) is well known. It is seen to the best advantage in 
sandy soil with a calcareous bottom. In early spring the tender 
green foliage is very pleasing, and towards the fall of the leaf 
the colour varies to chestnut-brown. The Beech makes a good 
hedge plant. F. s. arge?itea variegata is distinct and effective ; 
leaves broad, green, and finely-striped with white ; it is late in 

unfolding its buds in spring. F. s. hetero- 
phyila {F. lacmiata\ the fern-leaved 
variety, is charming, and grows well. 
F. s. macrophylla {F. lafifolia), with its 
bold leaves, is very handsome, and 
deserves to be largely grown ; it is a 
vigorous grower and requires plenty of 
head room. F. s. atro-purpurea is un- 
questionably one of the most ornamental 
of purple-leaved trees ; it is as free in 
growth as the type, and much more 
beautiful. F. s. tricolor is showy and 
distinct, with large purple leaves streaked 
and margined with rose-pink ; it is very 
attractive in a young state, while F. s. 
gra?ididentata and F. s. aureo-variegata 
are deserving of mention. 

FoRSYTHiAS are delightful April-flowering 
shrubs, suitable for many purposes ; they all 
bear an abundance of yellow bell-shaped 
flowers, and are of easy culture. On 
account of its low growth, F. viridissivia, 
introduced from Japan in 1845, is well 
adapted for planting as a margin to the 
shrubbery. Beyond doubt, however, the 
Fig. 247. — FoRSYTHiA most useful, as well as the most beautiful, 
susPENSA. species is F. siispensa (F. Fortiinei and 

F. Sieboldi) (Fig. 247). Its graceful, 
arching shoots, often 6ft. long, create a pleasing effect in 
spring, when clothed with golden-yellow flowers. It is use- 
ful for covering pillars and running over verandahs, as well as 
for hiding unsightly walls. To show the flowers off to 
advantage, Forsythias should be planted amongst low-growing 
evergreens. Beyond the removal of weak and spent-out growths, 
little pruning is necessary ; but it should be remembered 
that the best time for this operation is immediately the 
plants have done blossoming, as they are then allowed the 




ox TREES AND SHRUBS. 



full season in which to make and mature their wood. F. i^iter- 
7?iedia, a warden form between those alreadv mentioned, should 
be included amongst choice spring-flowering shrubs. The For- 
svthias are of simple culture and readilv increased bv means of 
cuttings of half-ripened wood placed in sandy soil in close cases 
and shaded from the sun. 

FoTHERGiLLA _ALNiFOLiA (American Witch Alder) produces 
terminal spikes of white, fragrant flowers in advance of the 
leaves. It is a dwarf-growing shrub of rather poor habit. 

Fraxinus excelsior (Ash) is well known as a timber and 
ornamental tree, and in order to get the best effects in the 
landscape, as well as timber of the finest quality, attention must 
be pafd to position and soil. The Ash is not a good hedgerow 
tree, because of its roots, which ramble in all directions close 
to the surface of the soil, and soon exhaust its goodness. It 
succeeds best in a rich, moist (not too damp) soil, and when 
well established is of great beauty. Some of the varieties are 
handsome, especially the following : F. e. aurea TGolden-barked 
Ash), a conspicuous tree, and well adapted for planting in con- 
junction with the Silver-stemmed Birch, as the effect of the two 
in association is most pleasing : it is effective in summer as well 
as winter, but it is in its leafless state that its true character is 
seen. Then there is the silver-leaved kind {F. e. foliis-argeiiteis), 
in which the soft green leaves are striped and mottled with 
white : this is of robust growth. F. e. heferophylla ( F. e. drcersi- 
^olia and F. simplicifolia j has leaves of diverse shapes, but they 
generally consist of from three to five leaflets : it is decidedly 
ornamental. The narrow-leaved varieties, ajigiistifolia and 
crispa, are also effective. F. americana [F. alba) is of rapid 
growth and distinct habit, having a perfectly straight trunk : it 
thrives in moist soils. F. a. aiicubcEfolia aurea is very free in 
growth, retaining its solden-coloured foliage throughout the 
summer, and is very useful for planting in sandy soils, as well 
as for adding colour, especially in public parks and gardens. 
The foliage of- F. a. foliis - arge?iteis variegatis is very hand- 
some, with cream and white markings on a green ground. 
F. a7igustifolia is of slender growth, with narrow rich green 
leaves. F. potamophila is distinct and ornamental, while 
jF. Richardi should not be overlooked, being of erect, free growth, 
with foliage of a pleasing shade of green. F. qiiadrangidata^ 
from the United States, grows about 6oft. high in favourable 
situations, and is very distinct on account of its four-angled 
branches and large handsome leaves. 

The Flowering Ashes constitute a valuable group. F. Or?uis 
{Or?ius europiza) (Fig. 248) succeeds wherever the Common Ash 
thrives : it forms a well-balanced tree some 30ft. high, and is 
conspicuous in ]\Iay and June when carrying its large plume-like 



384 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



clusters of white flowers ; it makes a beautiful lawn-tree. F. O. 
latifolia and F. O. angiistifolia are choice trees. F. floribunda 
{Orjius florilmnda) grows about 35ft. high in suitable soils, and 
is deserving of wider recognition ; it is a lovely free-flowering 
tree. F. Mariesii^ a native of Northern China, sent home about 

twenty years ago, is quite 
hardy, but of somewhat slow 
growth ; its leaves are glossy 
green, and its large, dense 
panicles of snow-white flowers 
are borne in great profusion a 
fortnight later than those of 
F. Ornus ; it should be 
grafted on the Common Ash. 
F. longiciispis and F. Bitngeana 
are very attractive species. 

Fuchsias.- — In the warmer 
parts of England Fuchsias 
flourish in the open air, but 
in cold districts the protection 
of a wall will be advisable to 
bring them through severe 
winters. F. macrostenima^ a 
native of South America, 
F. globosa, and F. Riccartoni 
are the best kinds for outdoor planting, and when they 
succeed are very showy in flower. 

Gaylussacia frondosa ( Vaccinium frondosuni) is a much- 
branched bush, 4ft. or so high, and delights in a moist, peaty 
soil. It bears dull purple bell-shaped flowers in slender racemes, 
in May and June. G. dumosa ( Vaccinium dumosum) is distinct, 
its pretty rose-coloured flowers being touched with white. This 
plant grows freely in dry soils, and blossoms in June and July. 

Genistas thrive in soil that suits the Cytisus. G. radiata 
{G. holopetala spartiuni radiatimi) is of slender growth, 2ft. high, 
and its yellow flowers appear in summer. G. virgata {Spartium 
virgatum) is a lovely shrub of elegant growth ; it bears an 
abundance of rich yellow flowers, and assumes a tree-like habit ; 
it grows freely and flowers profusely in sandy soil. G. cetnensis 
[Spartium CEtnense)^ the Etna Broom, a native of Sicily, is a loose- 
growing shrub, sparsely supplied with small, narrow leaves ; its 
beautiful yellow flowers are succeeded by attractive seed-pods, 
and like the last-named it is happy in sandy soil. G. hispa7iica 
(Spanish Broom) is one of the showiest of the dwarf-growing 
Leguminosce when laden with golden-coloured blossoms in early 
summer; it is easily managed, perfectly hardy, rarely exceeding 
loin. to I ft. in height, and admirably adapted for edgings to 




Fig. 248. — Fraxinus Ornus. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS, 385 

beds occupied with permanent shrubs. It may also be used with 
good effect for covering dry banks and such hke places. 
G. tinct07-ia elatior [G. elata, G. thyrsiflora) is of free growth 
and very free-flowering. G. sagittalis [Spartium sagittale) is useful 
as an edging to beds or for the rockery ; it is of prostrate habit 
^ind bears brightly-coloured flowers. G. prostrata and G. piLosa 
deserve a place in the rock garden. They are both of dwarf 
habit and free blossomers. 

Gleditschia triacanthos (Three- thorned Acacia), G. 
monosperma, and G. sinensis [G. ferox and G. horridd) are 
tall, freely-branched trees, sup- 
plied w^ith formidable spines 
.and pinnate, rich green leaves. 
They succeed best in a rich, 
deep, loamy soil, and are good 
town trees as well as effective 
for park-planting. 

Gymnocladus canadensis 
(Kentucky Coffee Tree) is a 
handsome foliage tree of free 
growth. Its very large bipin- 
nate leaves, composed of 
small, dull bluish-green leaflets, 
do not appear until late in 
the spring, and its spikes of 
white flowers are borne in 
June. A rich, deep soil is 
advisable for this ornamental 
tree. 

Halesia tetraptera (Silver 
Bell Tree) is an ornamental 
low-growing tree that succeeds 
best in rather moist soil. Its 
•small Snowdrop-like flowers are 
pure white, and appear freely 
in April and May. H. cory77i- 
bosa {Pterostyrax cory^nbosmii) is a very uncommon Japanese 
shrub, and bears an abundance of small white floweis suffused 
with rose-pink in corymbose panicles early in June; it grows 
about 12ft. high, and succeeds well against a wall. H. hispida . 
{Pterostyrax hispidum) (Fig. 249) also carries an abundance of 
white flowers in corymbose racemes. It is free in growth, very 
hardy, beautiful when in flower, but is not })lanted nearly so 
much as it ought to be. H. dipfera grows about lolt. high, 
and is deserving of a place in pleasure grounds. The snowy- 
white flowers appear about three weeks after those of the first 
Tiamed species, and remain a long time in perfection. 

2 c 




. Fig. 249. — Halesia hispida. 



386 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Halimodendron argenteum (Salt Tree) is a rare and 
beautiful shrub ; it thrives in sandy soil, and produces pretty 
pink pea-like flowers with much freedom in early summer. The 
pinnate leaves are covered with a white silky down, which gives 
the plant (especially when treated as a standard worked on the 
Laburnum) a distinct and pleasing appearance. 

Hamamelis arborea (Japanese Witch Hazel) is a curious, 
and in a way beautiful, shrub or small tree ; its flowers appear 
in winter, and their long, twisted, golden-yellow petals rising out 
of the deep claret-coloured calyces are pleasing indeed in the 
weak sunshine of a January day. It grows to a height of 15ft., 
and stands out as one of the most attractive of early-flowering- 
trees, as every fully-ripened small twig carries a rich profusion 
of flowers ; and if a background of evergreen shrubs is afforded, 
the golden colour is seen to greater advantage. Apparently it 
is not generally known that this Witch Hazel succeeds well in 
sandy soil, although a fibrous loam, mixed with leaf-mould,, 
forms the best mixture for planting it in. Good drainage is 
essential. H. mollis^ from Central China, is the latest addition, 
and a particularly valuable one it is, too ; it is quite hardy, of 
rather slow but neat growth, with broad deep green leaves and 
lovely flowers composed of rich orange-yellow wavy petals and 
glossy chocolate-coloured calyces ; it is free in blossom, and 
in habit bears some resemblance to H. japonica. The other 
members of the genus are not nearly so attractive as those 
named above. The Hamamelis here mentioned may be pro- 
pagated by grafting in February or early March on stocks of the 
North x^merican Witch Hazel (ZT. virgijiicd), which should have 
been potted up the previous spring, so that they may be 
thoroughly established by grafting time. Use well-ripened scions 
and place them in a warm case and syringe overhead lightly 
twice a week to facilitate new growth. 

Hedysarum multijugum is an uncommon shrub, introduced 
from the desert plains of Central Asia in 1883. It is a member 
of the leguminous family, varies in height from 3ft. to 5ft., is of 
spreading, rather loose habit, and commences to flower in the 
early part of June, keeping in blossom until the end of August. 
As few shrubs flower at that time, it is unusually welcome. Its. 
reddish-purple pea-shaped flowers are borne in axillary racemes 
about loin. long, and the best effects are produced when the 
shrub is grown in masses, especially if the lower shoots are 
pegged into the soil. It delights in sun-heat, and prefers a 
somewhat dry soil. 

Hibiscus. — This genus embraces a valuable group of shrubs 
for the garden, as they flower in autumn, when few others are 
in blossom. Few shrubs are more easily accommodated than the 
varieties of Hibiscus syriacus {Althcea frutex), but they pay for- 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



generous treatment, and when planted in a rather deep, rich soil, 
with full exposure to the sun's warmth, the display of blossom 
is particularly fine. The type is well known, having been culti- 
vated in British gardens over 300 years. It seldom exceeds 6ft, 
in height and as much through, and carries numbers of purplish- 
violet cup-shaped flowers. The varieties are numerous, and the 
following are some of the best : monstrosa has large blush-white 
flowers, blotched with crimson at the base of each petal, coelestis 
is the first to flower ; colour pale blue, blotched with purple, totus 
albus is very charming ; flowers large, good shape, and pure 
white. Painted Lady is show^y ; pale rose, blotched with deep 
red. r5uc de Brabant, 
lilacina plena, Comte 
de Hainault, Lady 
Stanley, amplissima, 
Leopoldi, and ainaran- 
thus are also deserving 
of recognition. 

Hydrangeas should 
be represented in all 
gardens, as they are 
ornamental and easily 
grown, H. hortensis 
\H. japonicd) (Fig. 250) 
is hardy in the South 
and West of England, 
and bears freely its 
large heads of flowers 
in summer. Some 
varieties raised from it 
are of great value. A 
few of the best are : 
stellata^ with pale rose 
flowers, suff'used with a 
deeper shade. Lindleyi 
{H. japonica roseo-alba) 
is distinct and hand- 
some. Thomas Hogg has enormous heads of snow-white 
r flowers. Although hardy in sheltered spots, the hortensis 
group of Hydrangeas is seen to better effect when grown 
as pot-plants for conservatory decoration. In the open ground 
the shoots are sometimes cut down in severe winters, but 
vigorous growths are thrown up from the base of the plants in 
spring. H. radiata {H. nivea) is a free-growing sort with deep 
green leaves covered .with a conspicuous white felt-like substance 
on the under-surface. It creates a pleasing effect when disturbed 
by wind. H. qiiercifolia (Oak-leaved), an American species, grows 
a few feet high, and delights in a moist, rich soil ; its pure white 

2 c 2 




Fig. 250.— Hydrangea hortensis. 



388 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



flowers are produced in thyrsoid panicles. It is rather tender, 
and should only be planted out of doors in a sheltered position. 
H. pubescens^ from Japan, is of erect, free growth, and bears 
flattish corymbs of white flowers tinged wnth rose. Of late- 
blossoming kinds H. paiiiciilata hortensis {^H. p. grandiflora) is 
the best ; planted in either rich or poor soils, it always bears 
huge panicles of white flowers, provided the previous year's wood 
is cut back in February to a couple of eyes. A good mulching 
of leaf-mould or manure in June is a great benefit to the plants. 
H. petiolaris {H. scandens) is a Japanese species of climbing habit, 
fastening itself to w^alls by means of its numerous aerial roots ; it 
has broad leaves, and flat corymbs of greenish-white flow^ers. 

Hypericums (St. John's Worts) are useful ornamental shrubs 
of low growth, some of which succeed under the shade of trees. 
They are nice rock-garden shrubs, and thrive in poor soils. The 
flowers of all are of different shades of yellow. H. calycijuim 
(Rose of Sharon) is well known as a sub-evergreen carpet-plant, 
succeeding well in moist soils and under the drip of trees. 
H. uralum {H. nepalense) is a neat-growing species of much beauty. 
H. patidum is very charming, but, unfortunately, little known ; it 
is of good growth, flowers abundantly, and is a first-rate rock- 
garden plant. H. Jm-cinum commences to flower during the 
early part of August and continues until October. It is quite 
hardy, of free but slender growth, and very attractive when 
carrying its rich yellow flowers. The foliage emits a goat-like 
odour when bruised. H. Moserianum {II. calycitium x patiduin) is 
one of the best of the St. John's Worts, being exceptionally free 
in growth as well as in blossom ; its deep buttercup-yellow flowers 
are about the size of a five-shilling piece, and are produced 
throughout the summer and autumn ; in severe w^inters it gets 
cut down to the ground-line, but w4th the return of spring throws 
up strong arching shoots from the root-stock. H. Androscemiim 
(Sweet Amber) grows from 2ft. to 3 ft. high, and bears large 
golden-yellow flowers from July to September. H. Buckleyi^ the 
latest addition to the genus, is a pretty and distinct dwarf-growling 
American species, well w^orthy of a place in the rock garden. It 
flowers in July. H. Kalmia?iu7n^ H. prolificum^ and H. elatum 
are good kinds also. 

Idesia polycarpa (yPolycarpa Maximozviczii) is a lovely orna- 
mental foliage tree indigenous to Japan, whence it was intro- 
duced in 1866. It is a choice tree, seldom planted in this 
country notwithstanding its hardiness and value for park decora- 
tion. It prefers a rich, moist, well-drained soil, and shelter from 
east winds is advisable. It forms a round-headed tree with stout 
branches supplied with heart-shaped, alternate, cheerful green leaves, 
set on long red (almost crimson) petioles. The drooping racemes 
of small sweet-scented flowers are succeeded by clusters of small 
dark fruits. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



Itea virginica (Virginian Willow), which is rare in English 
gardens, loves a cool, moist soil, and a shady position. It is 
a North American shrub, bears abundant racemes of white flowers 
in July and August, and usually grows about 4ft. high, forming 
a neat, compact bush. 

Jamesia AMERICANA, a native of the Rocky Mountains, forms 
a low, much-branched bush, with greyish-green leaves, and in June 
bears compact terminal clusters of white 
flowers. (Ordinary soil and a rather shady 
position suits this rare shrub admirably. 

JuGLANS (Walnuts). — These are valuable 
for ornamental planting, and prized for 
their nuts, or fruits, which are abundantly 
produced on large trees. The genus is 
generally represented in parks and pleasure- 
grounds by J. regia, which has been culti- 
vated in this country upwards of 300 
years, although noble specimens of the 
Black Walnut {/. nigra) are to be seen 
in various parts of the British Isles. There 
are, however, other species and varieties 
deserving of recognition, by reason of their 
ornamental qualities and freedom in growth. 
The genus comprises less than a dozen 
species, most of which hail from North 
America, and as they are all procurable in 
this country they might be employed more 
frequently in the park, especially for 
autumn effect. J. nigra is a first-rate town 
tree. It is vigorous in growth, with long 
branches and graceful foliage, which in 
September turns yellow, and is very effec- 
tive in the landscape. J. regia laciniata, 
sometimes met with under the names of 
J. heterophylla and J. filicifolia^ although 
not so vigorous as the type, is in some Fig. 251. — Kerria ja- 
respects superior to it. It is slower in ponica flore-pleno. 
growth, and its slightly drooping branches, 

clothed with rich green, deeply-cut leaves, are very handsome. It 
makes a lovely lawn tree, and fruits freely. J. mandschurica is a 
very uncommon and handsome Walnut from Amurland. It is 
hardy, vigorous, and distinct, and yields a plentiful supply of 
pear-shaped fruits. /. cordiformis, a Japanese species, is equally 
hardy and well adapted for pleasure-grounds. /. californica and 
T, Sieboldiana are also deserving of the planter's notice. 

Kerria japonica flore-pleno (Double Jews Mallow) (Fig. 
251) is a beautiful yellow-flowered shrub, suitable for planting 




390 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING 



in beds on the grass, in the rock garden, against a wall, or 
in the open border. K. j. major is unfortunately far too 
seldom seen considering its great value as a hardy flowering 
shrub. The flowers are double, freely produced, larger, and 
superior to the last-named. The single-flowered kind, K. japoftica 
iyCorchoriis japonicus) is seldom met with nowadays; it is never- 
theless a very fine shrub, with rich yellow flowers. Another sort 
having variegated foliage, and named K. j. foliis variegatis, 
deserves a place in the rock garden ; it is of rather slow 
growth, and a little tenderer than the type. 

Laburnums. — The Common Laburnum (Z. vulgare) is too 
well known to need description. When in flower (April to 

June) its pendulous ra- 
cemes of golden-yellow 
flowers are of exquisite 
beauty. It succeeds in 
dry as well as in damp 
soils. Z. V. Carlieri 
[Cytisus Carlieri) is also 
very free-flowering, its 
flowers being produced 
in long, narrow racemes. 
Z. V. foliis aureis is 
a distinct variety with 
golden - yellow foliage, 
which colour it retains 
throughout the summer; 
it is free in growth. 
Z. alpinum {Cytisiis alpiniis) (Fig. 252), 
the Scotch Laburnum, varies in height 
from 20ft. to 30ft. ; in habit it re- 
sembles the first-named species, but its 
leaves are larger, and it is generally 
three weeks later in bearing its richly- 
coloured flowers, on which account it 
should be planted to prolong the floral 
display. Z. a. Parksii is another excel- 
lent kind, with very long racemes of 
flowers. Z. a. Watereri and Z. a. 
grandiflora are attractive free-flowering 
Z. a. aiituinnalis is the latest of all the Laburnums 
to flower, and although not so ornamental as other members 
of the genus, it is too valuable to be omitted altogether. 
Z. Adami {Cytisus Adami), a hybrid between Z. vulgare and 
Cytisus piirpureus^ bears yellow and reddish-purple flowers on the 
same tree, and in some cases on the same branch. Z. cara- 
manicum {Cytistis caramanicus^ Podocytisus carainanicus)^ introduced 
from Asia Minor twenty years ago, is a very rare and beautiful 




Fig. 252. — Laburnum 

ALPINUM. 



sorts 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



shrub. It is of dwarf, bushy habit, generally about 4ft. high, 
with trifoliolate pale green leaves, and in July bears a profusion 
of bright yellow flowers in erect racemes. 

Lespedeza Sieboldi {Desmodium pendiilifloruni) produces a 
wealth of bright, rosy-purple, pea-shaped flowers in racemes during 
autumn. It is of slender habit, with long arching shoots, and 
delights in a rich, well-drained soil and a sunny position. 
Although it usually dies back close to the ground, it throws up 
shoots from the base in spring. 

Leycesteria FORMOSA (Himalayan Honeysuckle) is a beautiful 
shrub, and grows freely and flowers profusely even in poor, 




Fig. 253. — Leycesteria Formosa. 



hungry soils. Its long drooping racemes of white flowers 
(Fig. 253) suffused with purple, and the purplish-crimson bracts, 
are very distinct, and are succeeded in autumn by clusters 
of highly-coloured seeds that are much relished by game. 

LiQuiDAMBAR STYRACiFLUA (Swcct Gum Tree) is of medium 
growth, and well adapted for small pleasure-grounds or for 
avenues. Its smooth leaves - are arranged alternately and much 
divided, the colour being a tender green, varying w4th age to a 
deep glossy green, and in autumn again changing to rich purple 
and crimson, occasionally shaded with orange; in this condition the 
leaves hang on the trees until the first frost. The autumn beauty of 
this Liquidambar is its chief attraction, and, unlike many forms 
of tree life, its rich colouring is not withheld even in shaded 
situations. The leaves are fragrant, especially in spring. 
Although not particular as to soil, it prefers a moist one. 

Liriodendron tulipifera (Tulip Tree) is conspicuous by 
reason of its erect trunk, peculiar grey bark, striped with white. 



392 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



broad, three-lobed, smooth green leaves, and greenish-yellow, 
fragrant. Tulip-like flowers that are produced during summer. 
Before the leaves drop, they pass to pleasing shades of orange 
and yellow. The tree is of free growth, and especially so when 
planted in deep, rich, moist soil. L. t. aurea differs from 
the type in having the central portion of each leaf blotched 
with yellow. Both are ornamental trees and splendid for the 
park. 

LoNiCERAS (Honeysuckles) (non-climbers), though not particularly 
showy, are of value for the shrubbery. They are quite hardy, 
succeed well in ordinary soil, and some bear delightfully fragrant 
flowers. The following are worthy of note : L. involucrata 
{L. Ledebow-ii) forms a dense bush, and its yellow flowers, suffused 
with red, are borne in June and July. L. Alberti is a neat- 
growing kind, with erect, slender branches clothed with narrow 
pale green leaves. The rose-coloured flowers are very pretty. 
Z. tomentella is deserving of extended culture, as it is free 
and neat in growth, with small leaves, and in July bears an 
abundance of small pink flowers in pairs. It is distinct, 
beautiful, and valuable for its lateness in flowering, as some 
of the earlier-flowering sorts are in berry when this one is 
laden with its tiny but attractive flowers. Z. quinquelociilaris 
{L. diversifolia) grows about 5ft. high, and in June and July 
bears a profusion of small pale yellow flowers ; it was intro- 
duced to this country in 1840. Z. microphyUa forms a dense 
bush, the young growths of which are very showy by reason of 
their bright red bark, while the small glaucous leaves are attrac- 
tive and very distinct. R. fragrantissima and Z. Standishii^ 
referred to in another section as suitable wall-coverers, are 
amongst the most delightful of early-flowering shrubs. Both are 
thoroughly hardy and capable of enduring very severe winters 
without protection of any kind. The flowers of each are small 
but very fragrant and borne with such freedom as to merit special 
attention at the hands of shrub-cultivators, as the number of 
shrubs blossoming in the open air at the same time — January 
and February — are very lew in number. Z. Morrowi, a Japanese 
species, bears small flowers in spring, and these are succeeded in 
July by heavy crops of round bright red berries. It flourishes 
in sandy soil. Z. conrulea [Xy/ostejim ccEruleuni) bears greenish- 
yellow flowers and attractive dark blue berries. It forms a 
stout bush, erect in habit, and free in growth. Z. tatarica, an 
old species, carries an abundance of small rose- or pink-coloured 
flowers in May. It generally grows about 5ft. or 6ft. high. Z. f. 
pulcherrwia, L. tratislucens, and Z. Korolkowi are deserving of 
attention. 

LoROPETALUM CHiNENSE bclongs to the Witch Hazel family, 
and is a lovely free-flowering shrub or small tree, 4ft. or 5ft. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



393 



high, and perfectly hardy. Its flowers are borne in clusters, and 
in shape are not unlike those of the Hamamelis. They are 
creamy-white, and are divided into four narrow petals. The 
leaves are small and rich green. It prefers a rich soil, and, like 
the Hamamelis, delights in perfect drainage. 

Lyonia paniculata (Z. Hgusfrina), a North American shrub, 
varies in height from 4ft. to loft ; it grows freely in peaty soil, 
and bears short racemes of white flowers from June to August. 

Magnolias. — Amongst shrubs and trees with showy flowers 
these are very noteworthy, and it is difficult to say why they 
are not more frequently met with in gardens, as they are of 
simple culture, quite hardy, and beautiful when . in flower. 
Magnolias delight in a rich, well-drained soil, but so long as the 
drainage is good, the quality of the soil is of no great importance. 
It is, however, wise to protect them from east winds, as they 
flower early, and sometimes get injured by biting winds and 
late frosts. Autumn planting should if possible be avoided, as 
Magnolias do not transplant readily at the fall of the leaf The 
best time to move them is in spring, just as growth commences. 
After planting they should be watered at the roots, and syringed 
overhead to prevent the wood from shrivelling. M. conspiciia 
(Yulan) is the best known kind. It is a native of China, and 
has been cultivated in British gardens since 1789. It forms a 
freely-branched tree, 20ft. or so in height, and a specimen 
laden with its large, pure-white, sweet-scented, cup-shaped flowers 
is very handsome in March. M. c. SouIa?igeana is a hybrid 
between M. conspiciia and the purple-flowered M. obovata ; in 
habit it resembles the first -named parent, while its fragrant 
flowers are shaded with rosy-purple without and soft pink 
within. M. c. Norberti has large, stout, purplish-tinted flowers. 
M. c. Lennei {M. obovata x M. conspiciia) is a gem, and deserves 
to be planted extensively ; its rosy-purple flowers are large and 
freely produced. The stately Himalayan M. Campbellii is very 
beautiful, but a drawback to its general cultivation is its shy 
flowering in a young state ; its finely-formed flowers are rose and 
white, shaded with crimson on the outside, and borne in advance 
of the leaves. In April and May, M. stellata {M. Halkajia), the 
dwarfest of all Magnolias, is, in the open air, literally smothered 
with delicately-scented flowers as white as driven snow. A 
great recommendation in its favour is that it flowers whilst 
very young. In addition to its early-flowering it is the finest 
Magnolia for pot-culture, and where flowers for conservatory 
decoration are in demand in January, the kind now under 
notice should be remembered. M. stellata pink variety is a 
charming companion to the type. The flowers are of similar 
shape and size, but instead of being pure white they are 
beautifully shaded with pink. M. t>arviHora is a valuable 



394 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



addition to the dwarf-growing Japanese Magnolias, being very 
free and beautiful in blossom ; its pure white cup-shaped 
flowers, with crimson-red stamens, are produced readily even on 
small plants. M. Watsoni is another rare and beautiful species, 
with delightfully fragrant cream-white flowers, which measure 
from 5in. to 6in. in diameter, the central cluster of rich 
yellow stamens, with bright red filaments, being very attractive. 
M. hypoleuca is useful for parks ; it is a vigorous, free-growing 
tree, with very large leaves, bright green above and glaucous 
beneath. The deliciously-scented flowers, from 6in. to yin. 
across, are cream-white with prominent reddish - purple anthers. 
M. obovata (Af. purpurea^ M. discolor) is of dwarf habit, and 
produces sweet - scented purplish flowers with moderate free- 
dom. M. acuminata (Cucumber Tree) is a vigorous-growing North 
American species, with a straight trunk and numerous stout, 
spreading branches supplied with large deep green leaves, and in 
June and July bears bell-shaped, fragrant, greenish-yellow flowers. 
It is a handsome park tree, M. glauca has been cultivated in 
this country upwards of 200 years. It grows about 12ft. high, 
but is rather slow, and in sheltered positions is sub-evergreen. 
On account of the under-sides being silvery-white a pretty effect 
is created when the leaves are disturbed by wind. The 
cream-white, sweet-scented, cup-shaped flowers are produced in 
June and July. M. tripetala {M. Umbrella) grows freely in 
ordinary garden soil. It is a handsome species for the pleasure- 
ground, and requires plenty of room to show its character. It 
is thoroughly hardy, has very large deep green leaves, and in 
June is meritorious by reason of its large white sweet-scented 
flowers, which are succeeded by showy deep red fruits. 
M. macrophylla grows about 35ft. high, and like the last-named, has 
very large leaves. The flowers are also large, white, and stained 
with purple in the centre. As this noble species is a trifle tender 
whilst young it should, if possible, be planted where spring frosts 
have little effect upon it. 

Neillia {Spircsa) opulifolia is a quick-growing bush, and 
produces feathery clusters of white flowers in June. The golden- 
leaved variety, litte.a, will, if planted in a sunny spot, retain 
its yellow colour throughout the summer. N. amiirensis is 
another useful plant for the shrubbery. 

NuTTALLiA CERASiFORMis (Osoberry) is a bushy, compact, free- 
growing Californian shrub, and although its small white flowers, 
in axillary drooping racemes, are not showy, they are borne 
so freely and so early in the year in the open air that they are 
specially welcome. Its culture is of the simplest. 

Nyssa syi.vatica (yy multiflora) is a fine park tree, of 
medium height and rather slow in growth, and deserves to be 
planted extensively for its autumnal effect, its foliage being rich 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



395 



crimson, and in this respect is perhaps the most conspicuous 
of trees grown for the beauty of their foliage. It thrives best 
in moist soil. 

OxYDENDRON AREOREUM {Afidromeda arborea, Lyonia arhorea) 
produces its small white blossoms in September, a time 
when there is a dearth of flowers amongst hardy shrubs. The 
branched racemes of wax-like flowers range from 5 in. to Qin. 
long, and are^borne at the tips of the branches. It is of rather 
slow^ growth, and although in its native habitat (North America) 
it ranges from 30ft. to 4ort. high, yet in this country it rarely 
attains more than half that height. It succeeds best in a cool, 
moist, peaty soil, and flowers in quite a young state, while its 
foliage dies off a rich purple-red colour in autumn. 

P.EONiA MouTAN (Tree Pseony) (Fig. 254) is one of the most 
gorgeous of flowering shrubs, yet far from common in gardens. 
Tree Pseonies are gross- 
feeding plants, and delight 
in a deep loam enriched 
with well-decayed manure. 
A yearly mulching of 
manure or leaf-mould 
should be aff'orded. 
Copious supplies of 
water should be 
given while growth 
is progressing, and 
frequent doses of 
hquid manure will 
also greatly assist 
them. Good drainage 
is important. The 
plants should not 
be disturbed at 
the root more than 
is really necessary. 
Although perfectly hardy, 
be exercised, and the 
where 




Fig. 254. — Double-flowered Variety 

OF P.^iONIA MoUTAN. 



discretion 
Pseonies 



sprmg 



as to position should 
must not be planted 
the young growths are likely to suffer from late 
frosts. On the other hand, they must not have a 
too-sheltered position, or the wood will not ripen sufficiently 
to carry flowers. They are lovely subjects for planting 
on the lawm, and few shrubs produce a more charming 
effect in the mixed shrubbery border, when in flower, than do 
the varieties of P. Moutaii^ their deeply-cut and variously-tinted 
foliage giving them additional beauty. For growing in pots, for 

After flowering 



conservatory decoration, they are also well suited. 



IS over, 



encourage 



them to make fresh 



growth, 



and later on 



396 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



plunge out of doors in a sunny spot, and give plenty of water. 
The following are good varieties, and represent a wide range of 
colour : Louise Mouchelet, soft pink ; very double, large and 
handsome. Reine Elizabeth has deep salmon-red flowers of 
good form. splendidissima is distinct, having white flowers 
spotted with lilac. ladea is one of the best double whites. 
grmidiflora superha deserves to be planted extensively ; its- 
splendid white flowers are spotted with carmine. Triomphe de 
Gaud, bright rose. Lord Macartney is very attractive, with 
crimson flowers and conspicuous golden-yellow stamens in the 
centre. rosea odorata is rich rose, shaded with salmon in the 
centre, and delightfully fragrant. Van Houtte, bright carmine. 
Purpurea, deep violet-purple. Henry Irving, EHzabeth, Don 
Quixote, Jean de Reszke, and Julius Caesar have exceptionally 
large flowers of rich and beautiful colours. 

Parrotia PERSiCA(Iron Tree) is closely allied to the Hamamelis, 
and should be included on account of the rich autumnal tints of 
its foliage. Its small flowers, with conspicuous crimson-tipped 
stamens, are borne on the leafless branches with much freedom 
in February. It is a small much:branched choice tree, and 
delights in a light sandy soil. 




Fig. 255. — Paulownia imperialis. 



Paulownia imperialis (Fig. 255) is a vigorous Japanese tree 
of great beauty, and may be planted with success in ordinary soil,. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



397 



care being taken not to expose it to cold, biting winds. With 
a free use of the knife it can be made a useful addition to the 
shrubbery border skirting the flower-garden Trained to a single 
stem, the latter will, if cut down nearly to the base in October, 
throw up strong shoots 6ft. to 8ft. high the following year which, 
with the exceptionally large and handsome pale green leaves, 
give the plant quite a sub-tropical appearance. Its purplish- 
violet sweet-sc&nted flowers are borne in terminal panicles, but 
they frequently suff'er from 
late spring frosts. Apart 
from its attractive flowers it 
is well adapted for park 
decoration. 

Philadelphus (Mock 
Oranges) are easily-accommo- 
dated shrubs, usually having 
fragrant flowers. The common 
species, P. coronarius^ a 
native of South Europe, is 
being superseded by some 
of the more recently intro- 
duced kinds, but deserves 
a place in the woodland ; 
it sometimes grows vigorously 
in unfavourable soils and 
situations, and is therefore 
too useful a shrub to be 
entirely neglected. P. c. 
foil is argenteo-variegatis is 
happy in a warm soil — not 
otherwise — or under the shade 
of trees, as its leaf-colour 
fades. P. c. foiiis aureis is 
the golden-leaved variety, and 
a capital shrub for planting 
in masses in an open sunny 
position ; it is more satis- 
factory than the last-named, 
and succeeds well in cold, 
close soils, but not under the branches of trees. For planting 
on sandy banks it is as effective as the yellow-leaved Elder, 
and hot summer suns are not hurtful. P. Gordo?iia?ius 
(Fig. 256), an American species, is vigorous and upright in 
growth ; its large white, almost scentless flowers are borne 
in rich abundance, and about five weeks later than those of 
P. coronarius. P. grandifiorus {P. speciosus), also of American 
origin, bears enormous pure white sweet-scented flowers ; it is a 
free grower, and requires plenty of head-room, P. g. iaxus 




Fig. 256. — Philadelphus 
gordonianus. 



398 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



{P. piibescens) is less vigorous in growth, but equally free in blossom. 
F. undulatus is a neat-growing variety, of medium height, and 
exceptionally free in blossom. P. inodorus is less vigorous in 
growth than P. gra7tdiflorns ; the flowers are also smaller, and 
devoid of fragrance. As the odour of Mock Orange flowers is 
not agreeable to everybody, this sort should be noted, as it 
blossoms much more freely than some of its congeners, without 
possessing overpowering fragrance, P. Satsumi^ a Japanese 
species, grows about 6ft. high, and forms an elegant bush ; 
the flowers are white, and borne abundantly. P. Keteleeri 
Hore-pleno is free-flowering, and of good habit. 

P. inicrophyllus is suitable for the rock garden, as it rarely 
exceeds 2\{\.. in height. It is slender in growth, and in summer 
its Myrtle-like leaves are almost hidden by the wealth of tiny pure 
white flowers. P. viicrophylhis has been the forerunner of a 
group of dwarf-growing and exceedingly free-flowering Mock 
Oranges, raised by that eminent French hybridist, Mons. 
Lemoine, who commenced crossing it with a garden form of 
P. coronarius. Some of the best kinds raised from it are : 
Pemoinei, pure white, fine for massing in the open air, and useful 
for forcing ; Boule d' Argent, free, with semi-double, delightfully- 
fragrant flowers ; Gerbe de Neige, with its sw^eet-scented single 
flowers ; and Mont Blanc, pure white. 

Platanus acerifolia (Plane Tree) is so well known that 
description is unnecessary. It is the finest of all trees for street 
planting, as it luxuriates in poor soils and smoky atmospheres. 
P. a. Suttneri is of upright, compact habit, and very effective. 
Its deeply-cut leaves are beautifully marbled and striped with 
cream white on a pale green ground, the variegation being 
constant in all soils. It is quite hardy and vigorous ; a fine tree 
for the park. P. cuneata \P. digitata^ P. Jiepalensis laciniatd) 
forms a low, much-branched tree, with glabrous wedge-shaped 
leaves. P. orientalis is vigorous and of free growth. 

PoPULUS (Poplar) contains many hardy trees, which are of 
quick growth and happy in nearly all soils. P. heterophylla, 
with its heart-shaped leaves, is distinct and beautiful, and 
grows to a height of about 50ft. ; the petioles, as well as 
the under-surface of the leaves, are white, which gives additional 
beauty. P. ajigulata (Caroline Poplar) is a very ornamental free- 
growing species, especially when planted in damp soil. P. grafidi- 
dentata grows about 50ft. high, and its yellowish leaves, touched 
with red in spring, are very handsome. P. canescens {P. albo- 
tremuld) is conspicuous in spring when carrying its long 
catkins, and its pale grey leaves when disturbed by a gentle 
breeze possess distinct beauty. It is well adapted for planting by 
the side of lakes and on islands. P. alba macrophylla {P. Picarti) 
is a large-leaved form of the well-known P. alba (Abele Tree). 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



399 



P. a. nivea {F. argented) is an uncommon tree, and one of the 
most ornamental of the white-leaved Poplars. The young shoots 
and the under-surface of the leaves are covered with white 
tomentum. F. a. pyramidalis {F. bolleana, F. Korolkowi) is of 
erect growth and very effective ; it is well adapted for planting 
in restricted areas, as its branches occupy but little space. Like 
the last-named, the young growths and under-sides of the leaves 
are covered witlf white. F. deltoidea aurea has soft yellow leaves 
set on bright red petioles, which gives it a distinct and pleasing 
appearance, especially in autumn, when 
the colour deepens to orange. Ad- 
ditional beauty is afforded by reason of 
the young growths being more or less 
touched with red. It is free in growth, 
and the foliage does not burn in hot 



summers. F. Ontario variegata is a tree 
of vigorous growth ; leaves large and 
showy, dark green shaded with paler 
green, and heavily mottled and splashed 
with rich yellow. F. nigra pyramidalis 
{F. fastigiata) is a Poplar tree of 
rapid and upright growth, and well 
adapted to make a wind-break to pro- 
tect more delicate trees and shrubs. 
F. angustifolia {F. saiicifolia) has dis- 
tinct, narrow. Willow-like leaves. F. 
balsamifera (Balsam Poplar) is vigorous, 
and well adapted for hiding unsightly 
buildings and shutting out ugly views. 
F. b. candicans differs from the last by 
having the under-sides of the leaves 
covered with a whitish tomentum. It 
succeeds in poor soils. F. laurifolia 
{F. Lindleyana) and F. Simonii are 
suitable for parks and pleasure-grounds. 

Prunus. — Under the genus Frunus 
are now included the Almonds 

{Amygdalus), Peaches [Fersica), and Cherries {Cerasus). All 
blossom early, and as the flowers appear before the leaves 
a background of evergreen trees and a position beyond the 
reach of cold east winds should be chosen. P. Amygdalus 
{Amygdahis co77imiinis) (Fig. 257) grows to a height of from 
20ft. to 30ft., and thrives in common soil ; in early spring, 
almost before winter has gone, its rose-pink flowers give colour 
to the garden. F. A. flore-pleno is a lovely double-flowered rose- 
coloured variety ; its blossoms last a long time in perfection. 
The flowers of F. A. persicoides {Fersica amygdaloides) are much 
the same in colour, and specially valuable for their very early 




Fig. 257. — Prunus (Amyg- 
dalus) COMMUNIS. 



* 



400 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



flowering, P. A. inacrocarpa should be grown extensively, as it 
is one of the best Almonds, its flowers being large, handsome, 
and of a pretty shade of pink. P. A. aiiiara (Bitter Almond) 
is also very beautiful. P. Davidiatia alba is the earliest of all 
the Peaches to flower in the open air, its buds sometimes 

unfolding in the middle of 
January. Being very hardy, of 
Iree growth, and flowering so 
early in the year, it is sur- 
prisingly uncommon ; its smaU 
pure white flowers are borne 
along the previous year's wood 
(often 3ft. in length) with great 
freedom, and it is a capital 
grower. P. {Amygdahis) 
nana is fine for grouping 
^ in beds on the grass, as 

it is of very dwarf habit 
(3ft. to 5lt. high^, and 
carries a rich profusion 
of rose-coloured flowers. 
P, Persica (Peach Tree) 
is a charming early- 
flowering tree, 
while its double- 
flowered redijiore 
roseo-pleno) and 
white {flore albo- 
pleno) forms are 
equally pleasing ; 
these, however, 
are not quite so 
free in growth as 
the Almond, and 
require protection 
from north and 
east winds. P. 
Siino7ti belongs to 
the early - flower- 
ing group, as it 
frequently unfolds 
its lovely white 
blossoms in Feb- 
ruary. It is very free flowering, and quite hardy. P. Mume 
{P. Myrobala7ia flore-roseis) flowers about the same time as the 
Almonds, and its slender brown shoots carry a wealth of 
rose-pink flowers. P. triloba {Amygdalopsis LiJidleyi), noted 
elsewhere, is a glorious shrub, with double pink flowers. 




Fig. 258. — Prunus japonica flore-pleno. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



401 



P. divaricata is a useful lawn and park tree, having a round 
head and pendulous branches ; it is particularly attractive 
in spring, when mantled with its small snow-white blossoms. 
Though not so showy in flower as some of its congeners, 
P. cerasifera atroptirpiirea {P. Pissardi), from Persia, is welcome 
for its rich purple foliage, and when associated with such 
things as silver-leaved Acers its beauty is much enhanced. 
P. Cerasiis semperfiorens (All Saints' Cherry) is a beautiful tree 
for the lawn. It is of weeping habit, and bears white flowers 
and red fruits simultaneously during the summer and autumn„ 
P. Cerasus (^Cerasus vul- 
garis) is a charming and 
fairly well-known kind, but 
its double-flowered form, 
P. C. Rhexi florepleno^ 
is more beautiful, and 
deserving of wider culti- 
vation. P. C. Avium 
dorepleno {P. Avium 
multiplex) is a very attrac- 
tive ornamental Cherry, 
its double white pendent 
flowers being borne in 
clusters, and lasting in 
good condition for several 
weeks ; it is of good 
growth. P. japonica fiore- 
pleno {P. sinensis fi.pl.) 
(Fig. 258) is of slender 
habit, and bears an abun- 
dance of small pure white 
flowers ; this kind is in 
great demand for forcing. 
P. cha7ncecerasus (Siberian 
Cherry) is a delightful 
small-growing tree with 
white blossoms, borne 
profusely in May. P. 
Jacquemontii, a rare and 
beautiful free-flowering shrub, should be grown extensively where 
spring flowers are valued. It forms a neat bush and bears rose- 
pink flowers. P. prostrata bears a wonderful profusion of rose- 
coloured flowers, and should be noted by anyone on the 
look-out for choice shrubs. It is a beautiful border shrub, 
dwarf, with long, slender growths, and quite hardy. P. Padus 
(Bird Cherry), a charming European tree, useful for park 
decoration, grows 35ft. high, and bears numerous racemes of 
white flowers. Another kind that is useful for forcing is 

2 D 




Fig. 259. — Prunus pennsylvanica. 



402 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Pninus (C.) Pseiido-Cerasiis^ a small Cherry, with pretty rose- 
coloured flowers; useful for small gardens. P. (C.) P.-C. James H. 
Veitch, a recently-introduced Japanese tree, is a grand acquisition 
to spring-flowering trees. It is quite a fortnight later than the 
last-named in coming into flower, and differs from it also by 
reason of its greater floriferousness and larger and deeper- 
coloured flowers, which are borne in dense pendulous trusses. 
The bronze-green foliage gives additional beauty. P. (C) penii- 
■sylvanica (Fig. 259) has long been cultivated in this country; it 
freely produces clusters of white, Hawthorn-like flowers in May. 
Few ornamental Cherries are more delightful than P. serrulata 
{C. Siedoidi), with its double white flowers, suffused with pink, 

and borne in terminal 
clusters on well-ripened 
spurs along the old wood ; 
it is of stout growth, and 
in rich soil grows to a 
height of from 15ft. to 
20ft. 

Ptelia trifoliata 
AUREA is a handsome, free- 
growing, small tree, with 
pale yellow leaves set on 
long footstalks ; it is quite 
hardy, and when planted 
in sandy soil, with full 
exposure to the sun, the 
rich colouring is seen to 
advantage. P. trifoliata 
(Hop-tree) is of free growth, 
and when carrying its crops 
of seeds in autumn is 
efl'ective. 

Pterocarya caucasica 
(Caucasian Walnut) suc- 
ceeds admirably in damp 
soils, and grows to a height 
of about 30ft., forming a 
freely - branched, round - 
headed tree, with deep 
green leaves composed of from fifteen to nineteen leaflets. It 
is useful for towns, and should be pruned to a single stem 
when young, as it is apt to branch freely close to the ground. 
P. stejioptera and P. rhoifolia are very ornamental trees. 

Pyrus. — This genus contains many treasured spring-flowermg 
trees and shrubs, and a good use should be made of them in 
parks and gardens. The freedom with which their delicately-tinted 




ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



flowers are produced, together with their simple cultural require- 
ments, place them in the front rank of deciduous -flowering 
trees. P. {Mains) Horibunda (Fig. 260) forms a neat, small 
tree, with slender spreading branches that are every year 
covered with pink flowers, the unopened buds being rich 
crimson ; its small fruit is also effective. F. f. flore-pleno 
{F. Parkman?ii) has semi-double flowers of the same colour as 
those of the type, and is very floriferous. F. {Mains) Ringo 
is a dwarf, compact, much-branched tree, and very free- 
flowering ; it is one of the most attractive of ornamental 
Apples, and is lovely in spring when clothed with its pink- 
tinted blossoms. F. R. siiblobata is equally free-flowering, 
its clusters of flowers being large and of a delicate pink shade. 
F. sikkiineiisis {F. baccata i?idica) is perfectly hardy, distinct, 
pretty, and of free growth, with white and rose-coloured flowers. 
Another beautiful and little-known variety is F. Scheideckeri \ this 
is as free in blossom as F. floribinida^ but difl'ers from that in 
being of more erect growth, with larger, finer, and more deeply- 
coloured flowers. F. spectabilis {Mains specfabilis, M. si?iensis) 
is very showy with its bright pink, semi-double flowers. 
F. Mains, and its varieties, coccinea and jiervosa, are showy 
flowering trees. F. coronaria (Sweet-scented Crab) is a distinct 
and lovely species, bearing a profusion of fragrant white or 
delicate pink-tinted blossoms, generally after the majority of its 
congeners have passed their best. Its highly-coloured fruit, 
which emits a fragrance similar to that of Violets, is very orna- 
mental. F. c. fl.pl. comes into flower about the same time as 
the last-named, and is conspicuous for its large and shapely 
double rose-coloured flowers ; it is a gem. F. prnnifolia (Siberian 
Crab) grows to a height of 20ft., and bears pink flowers, which 
are succeeded by richly-coloured fruits ; its varieties, xanthocarpa, 
frnctu-cocciiieo, and chlorocarpa, are worthy of note. F. rivularis 
{P. diversifolia, P. fnsca) is a rare North American species, 
producing an abundance of white flowers and highly-coloured 
fruits. Few trees are more attractive than P. baccata in April 
and May, when its branches are laden with blossoms. P. b. 
microcarpa coccinea is distinct and pleasing in autumn on account 
of its bright red fruits. P. b. xanfhocarpa, P. b. conocarpa, and 
P. b. prcEcox should also be included. 

All the above-mentioned Pyruses are excellent for planting as 
single specimens on the lawn. 

Some of the White Beams {P. Aria) are pleasing foliage trees, 
growing well in ordinary soil. P. A. grceca {Sorbns grcEca) has 
roundish leaves, and in autumn bears great clusters of berries. 
P. A. salicifolia (willow-leaved) is of erect, free growth, and is 
also conspicuous in autumn when laden with berries. The leaves 
of P. vestita {Aria lanata, P. Jiepalensis) are covered with 
silvery-white tomentum, which gives the tree a distinct and 

2 D 2 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



handsome effect. P. rotundifolia {P. latifolia)^ P. Tormi?mHs 
{So?'bi(s To7'mi?iaUs\ P. Decaisneana, and P. i?iter?)tedia are of 
good growth, and in every way desirable. P. spuria {Sorbus 
heterophylla), P. lanugmosa, and P. a?nerica?m microcarpa are also 
deserving of attention. 

QuERCUS (Oaks) are valuable timber and landscape trees. 
Some kinds are very showy, and a list of select varieties should 
include the following : Q. coccinea, an Oak with brilliant-coloured 
foliage in autumn. Q. pedunciilata Concordia {Q. foliis-aureis) 
is the best of the Yellow-leaved Oaks. Q. p. heterophylla 
(Q. laciniata^ Q. dissecta) and Q. p. filicifolia (Q. asplenifolia) \ 
the last-named a particularly handsome kind, with elegantly-cut 
rich green leaves. The leaves of Q. p. variegata (Q. elegantis- 
sima) are mottled with grey and white on a soft green ground. 
Q. p. fastigiata {Q. pyramidalis) is of erect growth, similar to 
the Lombardy Poplar. Q. p. pu7piirasce)is (Q. atropiirpurea) has 
dark purple foliage. Q. sessiliflora rubicunda is very distinct, the 
leaves being large, and tinted with purple. Q. s. mespilifolia 
merits attention by reason of its pretty, narrow, Willow-like leaves. 
It succeeds best in moist soil. Q. rubra (Red Oak) is another 
large-leaved kind of great beauty. Q. conferta {Q. pannonica^ 
Q. hu?igarica) is of erect habit, with conspicuous, deeply- 
cut, rich green leaves, which take on shades of yellow and 
brown ere they fall in autumn, Q. Cerris variegata is the best 
of the Silver-leaved Oaks, its pale green leaves being splashed 
and irregularly margined with white ; it is of free growth. 
Q. laurifolia is particularly attractive in autumn, when its large 
leaves change to shades of crimson and yellow. Q. casfanafolia 
is a handsome species, with bold, rich green leaves, bearing some 
resemblance to those of the Spanish Chestnut. Q. dentata 
{Q. Daimyo) is a very fine Japanese species, with very large 
leaves ; it is free in growth. Q. stellata {Q. obtuscefolia) rarely 
exceeds 50ft. in height ; its rough green lobed leaves are covered 
with a yellowish down on the under-surface. Q. Mirbeckii is one 
of the last of the Oaks to lose its deep green leaves in autumn : 
it is a South European species, of fairly rapid growth, and 
decidedly ornamental. Q. ?iigra, Q. palustris, Q. macrocarpa, 
and Q. P?'inus are other handsome Oaks. 

Rhododendrons. — During May and June the Azalea group are 
wrapped in colour of all shades from white to yellow and orange, 
through pink, rose, and salmon, to scarlet and crimson, whilst the 
flowers are deliciously scented, and beautiful for cutting and placing 
in vases for room decoration. Azaleas are perfectly hardy, and. 
thrive in loamy soil, but prefer one that is composed principally 
of peat and leaf-mould. Lime should be absent from the soil, 
and good drainage is essential, as they are never happy when 
w^ater becomes stagnant at the roots. Although amongst the 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



choicest of dwarf shrubs suitable for pleasure-grounds and 
shrubberies, it is well not to forget that the flowers are some- 
times injured by cold winds. To preserve them from injury 
they may be planted in a colony by themselves, where they will 
get sufficient sun-heat to ripen the wood properly, and be 
afforded shelter ftom biting winds, &c., by tall-growing trees. 
Azaleas are amongst the most serviceable of hardy shrubs for 
forcing. Plants are easily raised from seed, but when certain 
colours are required, named sorts should be procured. For this 
reason we give the names of a few good kinds, with the colours 
added. R. occidentak (Californian Azalea) is one of the easiest 
to blossom, and valuable for prolonging the floral display. It 
forms a dense, freely-branched bush, and its delightfully fragrant 
white blossoms nestling amongst the pea-green foliage is distinct. 
Its leaves change to blood-red in autumn, which gives it 
additional beauty. R. arborescens is of vigorous growth, with 
large clusters of very fragrant red flow^ers, and as the bright 
green leaves are well developed at flowering time the blossoms 
are seen to excellent 
advantage. R. vis- 
cosum (Clammy 
Honeysuckle) hails 
from North America, 
and produces great 
quantities of sweet- 
scented white and 
rose-coloured flow^ers. 
It succeeds best in 
moist soil, and as it 
belongs to the late- 
blossoming section, 
is deserving of atten- 
tion. 

R. caleiidiilacea 
generally reaches a 
height of about 6ft. 
Its orange-coloured 
flowers are produced 
in May, in advance 
of the leaves. This 
species is interesting 
as being one of the 
parents of the so- 
called Ghent Azaleas. 
R. midifloi'iim, like 
the last-named, has played an important part in the development 
of the Ghent Azaleas. It grows about 4ft. high, and bears a 
profusion of lovely rose-scented flowers about the end of May. 




4o6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



R. sinensis is a treasured shrub, and one that has been used 
extensively by the hybridist. R. rhojnbicum, a Japanese species, is 
one of the first of the group to flower in the open air in spring, and 
very beautiful it is when carrying its rose-pink or purple-coloured 
blossoms. It is an attractive autumn shrub, as its leaves assume 
a deep red colour. R. Rhodora iyRhodora canadensis) is another 
pretty and distinct early-flowering species, introduced upwards of 
130 years ago. Its flowers are purple. R. Fasevi, a very un- 
common species, is also a very delightful one, too. In some 
seasons its flowers may be seen in full beauty towards the end 
of April, but it may be considered a May-flowering species. In 




Fig. 262. — Rhus typhina. 



its native home it forms a stout bush 12ft. or more hieh, but 
of course it has not yet reached such a size in this country. 
Its flowers are borne in terminal clusters, and when first expanded 
are pale pink, which gradually gives place to white. Its hardiness 
has been proved, and it flowers in a small state. R. Schlippen- 
bachii is a new^, distinct, and very handsome Chinese species, 
that has proved itself capable of resisting the rigours of our 
sometimes severe winters. It forms a rather loose-growing shrub, 
and bears an abundance of large soft pink flowers, spotted on 
the upper segments with crimson. It is a valuable shrub. 
R. dahuricum (Fig. 261) is a conspicuous object in the early part 
of March, when freely bearing its purplish flowers. It grows 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



407 



about 4ft. high, and is quite hardy. R. dilatatimi^ a very rare and 
beautiful Japanese species, bears mauve-coloured flowers freely in 
early spring. It is distinct in flower, and free in growth. 

Rhodotypos kbrrioides (White Kerria) is a charming and 
easily-grown shrub, very hardy, and bears pure w^hite flowers, 
somewhat similar to single Roses. 

Rhus. — The various kinds of this genus are ornamental shrubs 
or small trees of simple requirements. In autumn few shrubs 
are more effective than R. Cotinus (Venetian Sumach) ; it forms 
a freely-branched shrub, 5ft. or 6ft. high, with roundish, glaucous 
green leaves, which in autumn turn to shades of purple, crimson, 
chocolate, &c., while before this its feathery seed-plumes, which 
succeed the small, inconspicuous flowers, are very attractive, and 
these have given rise 
to the popular name 



with orange ; it is 

a fine lawn shrub Fig. 263.— Rhus glabra laciniata. 

and grows freely 

in town gardens. R. glabra {R. coccinea, R. elegaiis) is 
another kind of much beauty ; but the fern-leaved Sumach 
(7?. g. laciniata^ (Fig. 263) is a precious shrub, with finely-cut 
leaves which bear some resemblance to the elegant Grevillea 
robusta^ and before they fall assume shades of red, orange, 
and yellow ; it is useful for growing in pots for conservatory 
decoration, as w^ell as for planting in groups on the lawn. 
R. cotinoides is one of the showiest of shrubs conspicuous 



of Smoke - tree. 
R. C. atro-piirpiirea 
is desirable for its 
richly - col oured 
foliage and purple 
seed-plumes. R. 
typhina (Stag's 
Horn Sumach) 
(Fig. 262) forms 
a small tree with 
stout branches, the 
young shoots being 
covered with 
brownish hairs ; its 
large deep green 
leaves are com- 
posed of many 
leaflets, which in 
autumn change to 
purplish-red, occa- 
sionally suffused 




4o8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



for their autumn tints, the colours comprising shades of scarlet, 
rose, yellow, bronze, Szc. v?. venenata [R. vernix, Toxico- 
dendro7i pi?inatiim) is well adapted for planting in damp soils ; 
the leaves are somewhat similar to those of R. typhina^ but 
differ in being smooth, entire, and having purplish-red veins ; 
it is handsome and of free growth. R. Toxicodendron (R. 
-''apom'ca), the Poison Oak, has large trifoliate leaves, which 
assume many rich shades in autumn ; but as its sap is poisonous, 
care should be exercised in handling them. 

RiBES. — The Flowering Currants, with their graceful, pendulous 
racemes of white, yellow, pink, rose, and crimson flowers, are 
welcome. No soil or situation seems too bad for them, as 
they may be planted with success in poor ground. Of late years 
several hybrids have been obtained, which in point of beauty 
eclipse the familiar R. sangui7ieuni (Fig. 264). The variety named 




Fig. 264. — RiBES sanguixeum. 



R. s. albidum is not, as its name would imply, pure white, as the 
flowers are suffused with soft pink, with a deeper shade in the 
centre. R. s. atrorubens bears small deep red flowers with 
much freedom, while those of R. s. atrosangiiineum are larger, 
brighter, and represent the best of the red-flowered Currants. 
R. Go7'doniani{m {R. sangiiifieiun x aureu?ji), also met with under 
the names of R. Beatoni and R. Loudonia7ium, forms a stout 
bush with large handsome racemes of flowers intermediate in 
colour between its parents. R. speciosian {R. fiichsioides^ R. 
sta77ii7ieu77i) is a Californian species, and Avhen in flower might 
be considered one of the small-flowered Fuchsias, so much 
alike are its wine-red flowers with long stamens to those of 
the popular flower named. On account of the profusion and 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS 



bright colour of its flowers it deserves a good place in the 
garden. It is usually treated as a wall-shrub, for which position 
it is well adapted, and when grown thus will often reach to 
a height of 8ft., and then whea carrying its hundreds of tiny 
flowers its beauty is' very striking. R. americamun {R. floridum^ 
R. pennsylvajticum) is worthy of mention. Of yellow-flowered 
kinds, R. aureum (Buflalo Currant) is a good example ; it forms, 
a bush 6ft. high, and produces its flowers in April and May. 
The flowers of R. a. prcEcox are generally borne a fortnight 
in advance of those of the last-named species, while those of 
R. a. serotiniim are produced late in the season, on which 
account it should be included. R. a. aura?itiacum minus is of 
close, compact habit, very free-flowering, and rich yellow in 
colour. A group of this kind, with a few plants of R. san- 
guineum atrosanguineum has a telling effect when in flower. R. 
alpinum pumilum aureinn is conspicuous for its golden-yellow 
foliage, which it retains for the greater part of the growing 
season. Being a neat, low-growing shrub, it is worthy of a place 
in the rock garden. 




Fig. 265. — RoBiNiA hispida. 



RoBiNiA HISPIDA (Rosc Acacia), a native of North America, 
is one of the most delightful of dwarf-flowering trees. It thrives 
well in nearly all soils, especially so when rather dry. The 
pendulous racemes of rose-pink pea-shaped flowers (Fig. 265) 
appear about June. Worked on standards several feet high, and 
planted amongst low-growing shrubs, a fine efl'ect is produced by 
this shrub when in flower, R. h. inermis [R. macrophylla) is an 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ornamental variety of strong growth, with large foliage and very- 
fine flowers. R. 7ieo-mexicana is a tree of vigorous growth, and 
useful for the park and garden ; it bears pale rose-coloured 
flow^ers in short dense racemes in autumn. R. viscosa {R. glutinosa)^ 
the Clammy Locust, is a beautiful park tree, bearing an abundance 
of rose-pink flowers in short racemes during summer. It flowers 
in quite a small state. R. Pseudacacia (Locust Tree) is a well- 
knowm tree, and beautiful both in foliage and in flower ; a good 
many varieties have been raised from it, and the following are 
some of the best : Bessoniana forms a dense-headed tree, and 
retains its rich green leaves until very late in the season ; it 
is distinct, and free in growth, aiirea is conspicuous on account 
of its golden-coloured foliage ; this kind should always be planted 
in a sunny spot. Decaisneaiia bears an abundance of pale pink 
flowers ; fastigiata is of upright habit ; and semperfiorens bears its 
white flowers nearly the whole of the summer. Rehderi^ a?igusti- 
folia, and revoluta are also of interest. 

RuBUS DELiciosus, from the Rocky IMountains, is a graceful 
and very showy Bramble of free growth, perfectly hardy, and 
bears large pure white flowers with conspicuous golden-yellow 
stamens. This is unquestionably the finest ornamental Bramble 
grown, and deserves a rich, well-drained soil, and an open sunny 
spot. R. odoratiis produces large clusters of sweet-scented 
purplish-red flowers from midsummer until autumn ; being a free 
grower, it should be allowed plenty of head-room. The Nootka 
Sound Bramble {R. nutkanus) was introduced from North 
America by Douglas, in 1826 ; it bears white flowers in July 
and August, and is at home when planted by the water-side. 
R. roscefolius coronarius produces very freely delicately-tinted pink 
rosette-like blossoms of great beauty when planted in a sheltered 
nook. Another beautiful kind usually treated as a cool greenhouse 
plant, but one that thrives out of doors in favoured localities, is 
R. phoinicolasius (Japanese Bramble), a rapid-growing climber 
with pale pink terminal racemes of flowers that are succeeded 
by bunches of richly - coloured berries. R. biflorus^ from the 
Himalayas, is very conspicuous on account of its silvery-white 
stems, which, show up well in \vinter while the plants are leafless. 
R. laciniatus, R. spectabilis, and R. cratcegifoliiis are distinct and 
worthv of note. 

Salix (Willows). — -For planting in damp ground, such as the 
margins of lakes, streams, &:c., the numerous species and varieties 
of Salix are well adapted. They range from mere shrubs, ift. 
high, to trees of Soft, or so, and as the tall kinds are of quick 
growth, they are suitable for landscape effect. The leaves are 
mostly green and grey ; in winter the red, yellow, and green 
stems are effective, and in spring are very pleasing with their 
elegant catkins that are borne so freely. ^. babvlonica, mentioned 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS 



411 



elsewhere, is one of the most beautiful of weeping trees, while 
the cardinal and yellow-barked \Villows add colour to the 
landscape, especially in winter. S. alba is another handsome 
tree, and S. fragilis is deserving of extended culture. S. 
elegaiitissima, S. purpirea and its varieties, S. viridis, S. rubra, 
S. aurita, S. daphiioides, S. petiolaris, S. lanata, S. Smithiana, 
S. rosjnari?iifoiia, S. incana, S. cordata, S. phylicifolia and its 
varieties, and S. nigi'icans, are good kinds. 

Sambucus (Elders). — Amongst these there are some useful 
ornamental plants, and where shrubs with golden-coloured foliage 
are desired, S. nigra foliis-aiireis (Golden Elder) should be noted. 
The brightest colour is brought out w^hen it is planted in a 
rather dry soil and on a bank sloping to the south. In order 
to encourage young and vigorous shoots, hard pruning should be 
adopted in spring. S. Ji. variegata has its foliage striped wdth 
silvery-grey, which colour it unfortunately loses if planted under 
the shade of tall-growing trees ; like the last-named it is 
improved by severe pruning. S. n. laciniata (Parsley-leaved) 
and S. racemosa (referred to under " Berry-bearing Shrubs ") are 
handsome, too. 6^. r. plumosa and S. r. temiifolia are very 
attractive shrubs of graceful outline. S. glauca has foliage 
somewhat similar to S. nigra ; in its native habitat it grows into 
a tall tree, and when laden wnth its glaucous-coloured berries is 
very distinct. It fruits in a very young state. 

Shepherdia argentea should be included amongst a list of 
choice shrubs or small trees. It is a North American subject, 
grows to a height of about 15ft., and thrives best in a rich, well- 
drained soil. Its leaves are narrow and silvery on both sides. 
The small yellow^ flowers appear in April, and the bright red 
fruits in September. A useful shrub for small gardens. 

Spartiuai junceum (Spanish or Rush Broom) deserves special 
mention on account of the ease with which it grows in dry gravelly 
soils, where many shrubs would only eke out an existence. It 
is of fairly rapid growth, assuming a bush 8ft. or so high, and 
producing the best effects when planted in a mass, as individual 
plants are of rather ungainly habit; but w^hen massed this 
defect is not noticed. It is an abundant and continuous 
blossomer, and its pea-shaped sweet-scented flowers are very 
conspicuous, as they are borne after the majority of trees and 
shrubs have displayed their floral treasures. 

Spir^as. — The shrubby Spiraeas are valuable dwarf shrubs. 
All the kinds here mentioned are of easy culture and very 
showy. Although they thrive in sandy soil, one composed of 
good loam and leaf-mould answers best. They do not give 
satisfaction planted under the shade of tall-growing trees : while, 
on the other hand, it is unwise to expose them to the full sun. 
as the flowers are apt to become scorched and to fade early, besides 



412 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the foliage turning from a healthy green to a dull brown. 
S.japoJiica Anthony Waterer is of recent introduction, and a specially 
good kind. It is of dwarf, compact, bushy habit, and when its 
growths are crowned late in the season with deep crimson flowers 
it is very effective ; the flowers are not aff'ected by the sun to the 
same extent as are those of some of the other Spiraeas. S.j. alba 
grows about i6in. high, and bears an abundance of white flowers 
about midsummer. S. j. riiberrima is a taller grower, and of 
looser habit than either of the above - named ; its pink flowers 
are freely produced, and very attractive, 6". j. Bumalda is a 
profuse blossomer, and a capital subject for an edging to beds 
and shrubberies, its broad clusters of rose-coloured flowers being 
very pretty. S. j. glabi'ata is fine for massing. It is free in 
growth, and bears very profusely dense corymbs of deep pink 
flowers on stout growths well above the deep green foliage. 
The variety is dense in habit and quite hardy. S. Douglasi 
(Douglas's Spiraea) is very ornamental and useful ; its red 
flowers are borne in terminal panicles. S. salicifolia blossoms 
in July and August, and its rose-coloured flowers are 
arranged in short panicles. 6*. argiita (S. imiltiflora alba) is 
the best all-round white Spiraea grown ; it is of good habit, 
hardy, and very free-flowering, and its blossoms are of the 
purest white. S. hypei'icifolia (Italian May) is another very fine 
white-flowered kind ; it grows about 5ft. high, and when its slender 
arching stems are clothed with clusters of flowers it is very 
effective. S. caittoniensis {S. Reevesiaiia) forms an elegant bush 
about 4ft. high, and produces terminal umbels of white flowers. 
S. bella is a pretty Himalayan species, with rose-coloured flowers. 
S. Vafi Houttei (S. media x 6". trilobata^ is another first-rate kind, 
and produces a sheet of white blossom in May. 6". tomejifosa, 
a native of the United States, grows 4ft. high, and for the 
greater part of the summer bears large spikes of red flowers. 
S. media (,S. confusa) may be readily forced, and on account of 
its pure white flowers, as well as the ease with which they expand 
under artificial heat, it has become one of the most useful of 
Spiraeas. S. discolor (S. ariqfolia), a native of North-West 
America, is a graceful kind, and as distinct in habit as it is beauti- 
ful in flower; it should be transplanted about every fourth or fifth 
year, as it then produces a better floral display than when 
left undisturbed for a longer time ; its cream-white flowers are 
borne in plume-like panicles (Fig. 266), in July and August. 
S. Thunbergi^ a native of Japan, belongs to the early-flowering 
group ; in fact, it is the earliest to flower in the open air. 
It forms a low, freely-branched bush, having elegant arching 
shoots clothed with linear soft green leaves, amongst which 
nestle its pure white sweet-scented flowers. This is a good 
plant for forcing, and in some positions is sub-evergreen. 
S. mongolica should not be overlooked ; it is a . vigorous 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 413 

grower, and bears an abundance of flowers along the pendulous 
shoots late in the season. The double flowered kind, priiiiifoUa 
fiore-pleno^ should be planted largely, as it is particularly 
valuable on account of its early-flowering qualities ; it 
grows freely, and its' double pure white flowers are borne 
abundantly along the previous year's wood, and last long in 
good condition. This is a first-rate wall shrub. S. Margarita 




Fig. 266. — Flowering Sprays of Spir^a discolor. 



should be allowed plenty of room to develop, as it is 
of free growth and carries a great quantity of soft pink 
flowers. S. biillata (S. crispifolia) makes a fine rock shrub ; 
in fact, the rock garden is its proper place. It forms a dense 
bush, rarely above ift. high, with neat deep green wrinkled 
leaves and small corymbs of rose-coloured flowers. 6". decunibens 
is also a fitting subject for the rock garden. It forms a neat 
little shrub about ift. high, and bears an abundance of white 



414 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



flowers. 6". expa7isa is of free growth, and bears pretty rose- 
pink flowers. ^. Lindleyana is a handsome free-growing kind 
from the Himalayas, and is a charming shrub for planting near 
the verge of the lawn, as its rich green pinnate leaves and 
terminal panicles of white flowers are very effective ; in good 
soils it grows to a height of about loft. 6". sorbifolia (Sorbus- 
leaved) is another attractive species, and worthy of note. 
S. pachystachys is welcome for its late-flowering qualities ; its 
flowers are pink. S. semperflorens ?nac7'a?itha is very handsome 
and rare. It is free in growth, and its rose-pink flowers are 
borne with much freedom. S. triolata is an old inhabitant of 
our gardens, but by no means seen as often as one could 
wish. Its white flowers are borne in corymbs. Other good 
kinds are S. ChauicEdrifolia^ S. Schinabecki^ S. t>ikoviejisis, and 
S. salicifolia, 

Stachyurus pr.ecox is an early spring-flowering shrub, quite 
hardy in the open air in the southern counties, and grows freely 
in ordinary garden soil. Though not showy, its axillary spikes 
of greenish-yellow flowers are produced in abundance. 

Staphyleas (Bladder Nuts) form stout bushes, and are 
effective in groups. Their small white flowers are borne in 
drooping racemes with much freedom in May. The two best 
kinds are S. colchica^ a native of the Caucasus, and S. Coulo77ilneri 
(S. pi7i7iata X S. colchica). These thrive in ordinary soil, and 
delight in an abundance of water during dry weather. Both 
kinds are excellent for forcino; into blossom about Christmas. 
If one kind only is to be grown, S. Coido7Jibieri should be selected, 
as it is very free in blossom. 

Stuartias thrive in the open air if planted in rich, well- 
drained soil, and beyond the reach of biting winds. In very 
cold counties they should be grown in the conservatory or cold 
greenhouse. vS. pseudo-ca77ieIlia (S. japo7iica^ S. g?'a7idiflo7'a) 
is an uncommon shrub with pure white single flowers, relieved 
by yellow stamens. In autumn the leaves assume many shades 
of crimson, rose, and orange : it is the most ornamental member 
of the genus. S. pe7itagy7ia (S. 77i07ita7ia^ Malachcdejidj-on 
ovatuni) is worthy of mention. 6'. virgi7iica (S. 7?ia7yla7idicd) 
grows about loft. high, and is fairly well known : its cream- 
white flowers, with red stamens, are borne in May and June. 

Styrax jAPONicuiM is a beautiful Japanese shrub, and although 
its pendent pure white fragrant flowers, with conspicuous yellow 
stamens, are not large, it appeals to planters by reason of the 
freedom with which these are borne, A rather dry soil and a 
position not exposed to east winds should be selected for it. 
S. Obassia is worth growing ; the rich green leaves are large and 
handsome, and in autumn, when they become suflused with 
yellow and blotched with red, they are very pleasing. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



Syringas (Lilacs) are of easy growth in common soil, very 
floriferous, and attractive when in flower. They are useful for 
forcing into blossom in the depth of winter. S. oblata, S. Emodi 
(Fig. 267), S. JosikcEa^ and S. vulgaris^ interesting though they be 
are not so ornamental as 
those mentioned below. 

Of Single - flowered 
sorts the following are 
specially meritorious : S. 
Per ska (Persian Lilac) is 
an old inhabitant of our 
gardens, having been in- 
troduced so long ago 
1640 ; it is of dwarf, 
erect habit, with lilac 
and white flowers 
borne in clusters. 
Gloire de Lorraine 
bears fine trusses of 
rich rose - coloured 
flowers. Charles X. 
is distinct, with large 
compact trusses of 
reddish-purpl e 
flowers. Marie Le- 
grange is one of the 
very best wtoes 
grown, and Princess 
Marie is hard to beat 
the latter bears 
pure white early 
flowers in com- 
pact trusses with 
much freedom. 
Louis Van 
Houtte has deep 
red flowers 
of great size 
and substance. 
Geant des Ba- 
tailles bears 
medium-sized 
trusses of rosy-pink flowers 
sort, wnth massive spikes 




Fig. 267. — Syringa Emodi. 



of large 



Souvenir de Louis Spath is a capital 
dark purple flowers. Ville de 
Troys has deep red flowers of much substance. Beranger is a 
wonderfully free blossomer ; its bluish-lilac flowers are very pretty. 

The following are amongst the best Double and Semi-double 
varieties : Madame Lemoine is a grand white, with large flowers 



4i6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



borne in great trusses. La Tour d'Auvergne has deliciously- 
scented reddish-lilac-coloured flowers ; very free-flowering. Pyra- 
midale is very choice ; colour pale lilac. Leon Simon has 
medium-sized flowers, light pink, suff'used with mauve. Alphonse 
Lavallee is another first-rate variety, with pale lilac flowers 
borne very freely. Michael Buchner is a beautiful variety, with 
well-shaped flowers, pale lilac, margined with rose. Virginite 
should not be overlooked : its large trusses of delicate pink 
flowers are very attractive. President Grevy should be included 
in a list of good Lilacs. 

TiLiA. — The Limes are favourite park trees, but there are 
several kinds that are not so well known as they ought to be. 
The common Lime, or Linden Tree {T. europcea), is a first-rate 
avenue tree, and stands hard pruning well. A rich rather moist 
soil gives the best growth, and it prefers a somewhat sheltered 
to an exposed situation. T. argentea {T. eiiropoea alba, T. 
tomenfosa) (the Silver Lime) bears delightfully-fragrant yellowish- 
white flowers ; it varies in height from 40ft. to 50ft. It is 
very distinct by reason of the under-surface of its cordate leaves 
being covered with white pubescence, which creates a pretty 
effect when they are disturbed by wind. T. cordata {T. syl- 
vesfris, T. parvifolid) is a small-leaved species, and very late 
in coming into flower. It succeeds in dry soil better than 
most of its congeners. T. platyphyllos requires plenty of room 
to develop. It is free in growth, with a tall erect stem and 
rather drooping branches. It flowers early in the season. 
T. p. asplejiifoiia, although not so vigorous as the type, is, 
nevertheless, very ornamental. Its leaves are much cut, the 
central portion yellowish-green, intensifying to deep green towards 
the edges. It is an abundant blossomer. T. ame7'icana (Bass 
Wood) delights in a cool, moist, rich soil. It is more robust 
than T. eiiropcea, from which it differs also by reason of larger 
and deeper green leaves, as well as being nearly a month later 
in coming into blossom. T. a. pubescens is a very ornamental 
variety, more dense in growth than the last-named, and also 
conspicuous for its large leaves. 

Ulmus (Elms). — There are several kinds of Elms useful for 
the garden as well as the park. Passing over those that are 
well known we would direct attention to a few that are less 
familiar. U. canipestris antarctica aurea ( U. Rosseelsii) is a free- 
growling variety, with rich yellow foliage. U. c. latifolia variegata 
has its foliage mottled and striped with silver and grey. 17. c. 
viminalis variegata is very distinct, having small leaves splashed 
. and spotted with white on a pale green ground. Amongst Wych 
Elms, the golden-leaved variety named U. inontana fastigiata 
aurea {U. Dampieri Wredei) is conspicuous. It is of erect 
habit and keeps its colour throughout the growing season. 



ox TREES AND SHRUBS. 



U. m. vars. macrophylla^ atropiirpiirea^ lad?iiafa, and cinerea 
are by no means so well known as they deserve to be. 
U. alata is a green-leaved kind with distinct cork-like bark. It 
rarely exceeds 35ft. in Iieight. 

Vacciniums are useful shrubs and very free-flowering. Those 
here mentioned are quite hardy and delight in peaty soil. 




Fig. 268. — VIBUR^■uM Opulus sterile. 



V. corymbosum (Swamp Blueberry) often grows about 7ft. high, and 
carries dense clusters of pale pink flowers in May and June on 
the previous year's wood. V. peiinslyvaniciim (Dwarf Blueberry) 
is a showy, low, much-branched autumnal - tinted shrub bush, 
with racemes of pale rose-coloured flowers, succeeded by sweet 
bluish-black berries. V. iiliginosuni and V. stamineum are also 
noteworthy. 

2 E 



4i8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Viburnums are early summer-flowering shrubs, and although 
•of simple requirements, pay for good culture ; if treated liberally 
and given an open, sunny spot, they flower profusely in May and 
June, and some are very attractive in autumn when in fruit. 
They are useful for forcing into blossom for house decoration 
during the winter months. For this purpose they should be lifted 
in October, planted in pots of suitable size, plunged in the open 
ground, and the most forward ones brought into heat in 
December. The syringe should be used freely amongst the top 
growths, and as the flowers develop the plants should be removed 




Fig. 269. — Viburnum plicatum. 

to a colder house before transferring them to the conserva- 
tory. V. Opidus sterile and V. plicatum (Figs. 268 and 269) are 
specially useful for this purpose. V. acerifolium^ a slender- 
habited shrub, grows about 6ft. high, and its rich green 
three-lobed leaves assume a deep crimson hue in autumn. Its 
clusters of cream-white flowers are borne very freely, and these 
are followed by showy berries. F. Le7itago bears some 
resemblance to V. lantana (Wayfaring Tree), a native of Britain. 
It grows about 20ft. high, and bears large clusters of white 
flowers, which are succeeded by dark berries in autumn. 
V. dentatum (Arrow-wood) is quite hardy, and produces cymes 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



419 



of white flowers in June. The pale green sharply-toothed 
leaves are smooth, with prominent veins, and the bright 
blue berries are very pleasing in September. V. 7?mcro- 
cephalum should, if possible, have a place beyond the reach 
of east winds. It succeeds best in rich well-drained soil, and 
when laden with its enormous heads of white flowers is 
very effective. It is useful for forcing into flower for con- 
servatory decoration. V. prujiifoliiuji has Plum-like leaves, 
flowers towards the end of May, and bears black berries in 
autumn. V. nudimi (American Withe Rod) grows about 8ft. 
high, and produces white flowers in the early part of June, and 
crops of black berries in September. V. Opiihis sterile is 
sufficiently known to need nothing more than passing allusion. 
It is an easily-grown shrub, and the great balls of white flowers 
borne at the points of the growths are very conspicuous in June. 
V. plicatiim (Japanese Snowball Tree) is a particularly handsome 
shrub when in flower. It is perfectly hardy, free in growth, and 
flowers abundantly. Although not particular as to soil, it yields 
the best results when planted in soil composed of equal quan- 
tities of lumpy loam and leaf-mould. Good drainage and a 
sunny position are important. This shrub is well suited for 
planting in bold groups on the turf, and in June, when its large 
clusters of snow-white flowers are being displayed on the short 
spurs along the stifl" growths, few plants are more pleasing to 
the eye. The bafls of flowers are larger and of a purer white 
than those of the well-known Guelder Rose. 

Zenobia speciosa {A?idromeda cassincefolia^ A. speciosa). — 
Although introduced to this country nearly a hundred years ago, 
this is rarely met with. It is a shrub of much beauty. Its white, 
drooping, Lily of the Valley-like flowers are freely produced in 
axillary clusters in summer on the old wood, and it grows about 
4ft. high. Z. s. pulverule7ita (^Afidromeda dealbata, A. pulverulejita, 
and A. speciosa glaucd) is an improved form, and should be known 
to all lovers of dwarf-growing shrubs ; not only are its stems and 
foliage powdered with white, but its flowers are larger and borne 
more freely than are those of the type. Peaty soil is not 
essential to the proper development of these sadly-neglected 
shrubs, as they grow freely in ordinary well-drained soil. Both 
the plants named are perfectly hardy near London, and are 
nearly sub-evergreen. In order to keep the latter true to 
character, it is advisable to increase it by cuttings or by layers, 
as the majority of plants raised from seed revert to the type. 

Evergreen. 

Andromeda polifolia (Marsh Rosemary) delights in peaty sol, 
and as it rarely exceeds ift. in height, it is well adapted for 
planting in front of the shrubbery. Its shoots are clothed with 
narrow rich green leaves, and its pinkish-white flowers, tipped 

2 E 2 



420 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



with red, are borne freely in drooping racemes from May till the 
end of September. A. p. angustifolia and A. p. 7?iajor are also 
interesting shrubs. 

Arbutus. — A. Unedo (Strawberry Tree) is a beautiful foliage 
tree, and is referred to under Berry-bearers. In the South 
and West of England the Arbutuses thrive out of doors, but 
in the North they sometimes get cut in severe winters unless 
sheltered. They are peat-loving plants, and require plenty of 
water during the growing season. Perfect drainage is important, 
and in every case shelter against cold east winds should 
be provided. A. Andrachne {A. integrifolid) grows about 
1 5ft. high, and makes a handsome tree. The greenish- 
white flowers are borne in terminal panicles in May. Its 
young bark is tinged with red, and the old bark peels off 
every spring. It is one of the hardiest and most desirable 
members of the genus. A. Meiiziesii (A. procera) is a 
North American tree, of free growth, and produces large 
panicles of white sweet-scented flowers. The deep green 
leaves are of a beautiful glaucous shade on the under-sides. 
A. hybrida {A. andracJmoides^ A. photinicEfolid) — a cross between 
A. A?idraclme and A. Unedo — is very beautiful. Its deep green, 
serrated, leathery leaves are larger than those of the well-known 
Strawberry Tree, and the greenish-white flowers are also larger and 
produced more freely. In spring the young growths are tinged 
with red. A. Unedo rubra (A. Croomn) is another beautiful 
variety with red flowers. The leaves are larger than those of the 
type, and, like the last-named, the young bark is stained with red. 
It grows freely and forms a round, well-balanced head. A. U. 
quercifolia has deeply-cut rich green leaves, bearing some 
resemblance to those of an Oak. It should always be included 
in a collection of Strawberry trees. A. i7itergerrima {A. rotundi- 
folid) forms quite a dense shrub, of compact habit, with small, 
roundish, deep green leaves. 

Arundinaria. — See Bamboos. 

Arundo conspicua is an ornamental grass or reed resembling, 
but less vigorous than, the Pampas Grass {Gyneriuni argenteiim). 
Its long, slightly-serrated leaves, droop gracefully, and its long, 
arching, feathery plumes are thrown up early in the summer, 
remaining effective until late in the autumn. A. Donax (Great 
Reed) (Fig. 270), another decorative plant, produces a charming 
effect when planted by the sides of ponds or on the banks of 
streams and lakes. In this country it grows from loft. to 14ft. 
high, and its erect stems are supplied with glaucous green flax- 
like leaves. A. D. macrophylla is a very vigorous form with 
broader and more glaucous-coloured leaves. A capital plant for 
sub-tropical bedding. A. D. variegata is a very showy kind, of 
dwarfer and more compact growth than the type. It is a trifle 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



tender, and is well adapted for pots and tubs for conservatory 
decoration. Its pale green leaves are striped with white. 

Arundos should be planted in rich, well-drained soil, and not 
exposed to cold, biting winds. They are effective when planted 
in isolated groups on the outskirts of the lawn, as their 




characters are there displayed to greater advantage than in the 
ordinary shrubbery border. They delight in full exposure to the 
sun, and are benefited by copious supplies of water during the 
growing season. The best time to transplant and divide them 
is just before growth commences in spring. 



422 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



AucuBAS. — See page 459. 
AzARAS. — See page 459. 

Bamboos. — -These include Arundinaria^ Banibiisa^ and 
Phyllostachys, and are the most beautiful of all hardy 
ornamental-foliaged shrubs, imparting to the landscape a tropical 
aspect. To produce the best results in this country, a little extra 
care is necessary. They suffer less from a low temperature than 
from east and north-east winds in early summer, when growth is 
tender. It is therefore essential to fix upon a site sheltered from 
cold winds, especially north and east. Although ordinary soil 
suits them, they are happier when grown in a rich loam with 
plenty of cow - manure and good leaf - mould incorporated. 
During the growing season, an abundance of water should be 
given to the roots, for which reason ample drainage should be 
provided. An annual topdressing of leaf-mould will increase 
the vigour of the plants. 

If transplanting, or division of the plants, is necessary, this 
should be done in early summer, when growth is commencing, as 
they will then grow away freely, without feeling any ill-effects. 
As soon as planting is completed, a good watering should be 
given, to settle the soil about the roots, and repeated at 
intervals. 

Bamboos are particularly useful for sub-tropical bedding, and 
charming as isolated specimens on the fringe of the lawn, as 
well as for decorating the banks of lakes and streams. They 
are also excellent for growing in pots for the decoration of cool 
greenhouses, provided they are never allowed to want for water. 
. Arundinaria aurico7na {Bambusa Fortimei aured) is a lovely 
Japanese kind forming a dense mass about 4ft. high, with 
greenish-yellow leaves striped with green. A. Fortiinei (yBainbiisa 
Fortunei variegaid) is also of Japanese origin, \vith rich green 
leaves, beautifully variegated with white. It is admirably 
adapted for planting in the front of the shrubbery, and 
also for growing in pots for the conservatory. It spreads 
rapidly, and partly loses its foliage in winter. When grown 
in pots, it should be well supplied with water, otherwise the 
lower foliage assumes a rusty-brown colour, and eventually falls. 
A. japonica {Bambusa Metake) (Fig. 271) has been cultivated in 
this country for about fifty years, and beyond doubt is one of 
the finest species for English gardens. It forms a thick mass, 
with gracefully-arching growths and broad deep green leaves. It 
succeeds better than most Bamboos in dry soils, and when 
planted in sheltered ravines is effective, retaining its foliage all 
the winter. In exposed situations it occasionally loses some of 
its older leaves in autumn. It is a free grower, and delights in 
plenty of root-room. A. Falconeri {Thajnnocalamus Falco}ie?d) is 
an elegant species, and in sheltered spots is quite hardy here. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



The slender stems, often loft. high, are clothed with bright 
green leaves. A. nitida i^Bambiisa Kan-si) is a beautiful kind 
for planting in the shade, and should always find a place 
amongst choice Bamboos. It is free of growth, graceful 
of habit, and quite as hardy as A. japonica. The slender 
brown-purple stems, furnished with short branches, are clothed 
with small glaucous green leaves, which change to deep 
green with age. A. Hindsii {Bambusa erectd) is another 
elegant and distinct kind, of free growth. Its erect • stems 
grow about 7ft. high, and its long leaves are dark glaucous 
green. A. Simoni {Bambusa Simoni) is perhaps the handsomest 




Fig. 271. — Arundinaria japoxica (Ba^^ibusa Metake). 



of the taller-growing kinds. Although of vigorous growth, it is 
of elegant and graceful habit, with rich green leaves nearly ift. 
long. It grows about 15ft. high, spreads very rapidly, and when 
associated with a background of other evergreens is very attractive. 

A. Veitchii {^Bambusa Veitchii) is a distinct Japanese species, 
with broad leaves 4in. to 7 in. long, rich green above, and 
glaucous on the under-side. It is of free growth and dwarf 
habit. The edges of the leaves become brown in winter ; but 
in spring, when new growth appears, this defect is remedied. 
A. inacrosperma is indigenous to North America, very distinct, 
and a pretty kind for planting in the shade. A picmila {^Bambicsa 



424 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



piimild) is of neat, compact habit, and worthy of a place at the 
foot of the rock garden, or for planting in front of dwarf shrubs. 
Its slender stems are touched with purple, and the oblong, 
lanceolate leaves are rich green. 

Bainbusa marmorea {B. Ka?i-chikn) belongs to the dwarf- 
growing section. Its slender purple stems and branches are 
clothed with short bright green leaves ; it needs a very sheltered 
situation. B. tessellata {B. Ragamowski) has large, handsome, deep 
green leaves, often i6in. long and 3in. broad. It is very dense 
in growth, spreads rapidly, is very hardy, and one of the most 
distinct of the dwarf kinds. B. palinata {B. Ki{??iasasa), from 
Japan, is also of dwarf habit, and useful for planting in the 
shade. It is of free growth, and soon forms a dense clump. Its 
broad, deep green, serrated leaves are about ift. long and very 
handsome. B. pygmcea is the dwarfest Bamboo in cultivation, 
and useful for carpeting beds, for edgings, and for the wild garden ; 
it is a bright little plant in winter. B. Nagashima and B. disticha 
{B. nana) are also of dw^arf habit, and worthy of notice. The 
latter is useful for planting in places where the taller-growing 
kinds would be out of place. 

Phyllostachys aurea {Bajnbusa aiirea, B. sfenlis), also known 
by the name of Golden Bamboo, has greenish-yellow stems 
and narrow pale green leaves. It deserves to be more 
generally planted. It reaches 12ft. or 14ft. high, the growths 
arching gracefully. P. nigra (^Ba?nbusa Jiigra) has blackish- 
coloured stems, often 15ft. high, and small deep green leaves — a 
pleasant contrast. P. viridi-glaucescens {Bambusa viridi-glaucescens) 
is very effective, and grows about 15ft. high when well-established. 
The leaves are glaucous green, and this Bamboo always wears a 
cheerful appearance. P. flexuosa bears some resemblance to the 
last-named, and grows about 12ft. high, its deep green stems 
being touched with purple, the glaucous leaves being remarkably 
handsome. P. bambusoides is of neat habit, distinct, and very 
beautiful. P. castillonis {^Bambusa castillojiis) has gracefully- 
arching stout stems, and rich glossy green leaves, variegated 
with cream-white. It is of free growth and graceful habit. 
P. Heno7iis [Bambusa Ue?i07tis) is perhaps the loveliest of all the 
Phyllostachys, slender in growth, and with numerous branchlets 
clothed with short bright green leaves. It flourishes in dry as 
well as in moist soils. Another beautiful and thoroughly hardy kind 
is P. Quilioi {Bambiisa Mazeli), with tall and gracefully-arched 
stems clothed with dark green leaves of various sizes. P. mitis, 
an elegant Bamboo, but unfortunately rather tender, is well 
worthy of a sheltered nook, as its arching growths are very 
effective. It is of vigorous growth, and requires plenty of 
room to display its beauty to advantage. 

Berberis (including Mahonias) are useful, ornamental, hardy 
shrubs of free growth, even in poor soils. All are hardy, and 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



those here mentioned are amongst the showiest of spring- 
flowering shrubs. B. Darwini is a brilliant shrub, with small 
polished green leaves completely hiding the pendulous shoots, 
and in April and May the numerous racemes of orange-yellow 
flowers are very pleasing. In height it varies from 4ft. to loft., 
according to soil and position. It flowers in quite a small state, 
and fills in well at the bottom, so that it forms a neat, 
symmetrical bush. As a hedge-plant it can be recommended : it 
bears the knife 
well. B. biixifoiia 
{B. dulcis) is a 
variable and use- 
ful shrub, with 
small, stiff, dark 
green. Box - like 
leaves ; the flowers 
are pale yellow ; 
in some positions 
it is sub- evergreen. 
B. stenophylla (a 
hybrid between 
B. enipetrifolia 
and B. Darwini) 
(Fig. 272) is a gem 
amongst Barber- 
ries, distinct, free 
in growth, and 
very attractive ; 
plenty of room 
must be allowed, 
as it spreads 
rapidly, and soon forms a dense bush, with long, gracefully- 
arching, deep green shoots clothed with small, narrow, intense 
green leaves ; the small drooping yellow flowers appear in May. 
B. enipetrifolia is a neat trailing bush, with small linear leaves, 
about I in. long, arranged in clusters along the slender branches; 
the bright yellow flowers are produced in the axils of the 
leaves in May, and frequently a second crop is borne 
in the autumn. On account of its dwarf habit and slow growth, 
it is better suited for the rock garden than the ordinary 
shrubbery. B. Wallichiana [B. Jamesoni^ B. Hooker i) (Fig. 273) 
is a decorative shrub of great beauty, forming a dense 
bush. The glossy green leaves are arranged in clusters on 
stiff branches. The attractive pendent flowers are borne 
freely. B. ilicifolia is a distinct kind, of bushy habit, and needs 
a sheltered position to bring out its true characters. The rich 
glossy green leaves, with numerous spines and large clusters of 
orange-coloured flowers, are charming. B. congestiflora hakeoides 




426 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



green 



brownish-crimson. B. 



also deserves mention, being quite hardy, and forming a neat, 
stout bush. It bears an abundance of golden-yellow flowers in 
early sprmg. B. tiervosa {B. glu??iacea, Maho?iia glimiaced) is 
very distinct, forming a dwarf, compact bush, with deep green 
leaves. In autumn, when in flower, it is very beautiful. A 
useful shrub for winter effect, and suitable for the rock garden. 

B. repens {Mahojiia repens) is a low-growing shrub of dwarfer 
habit than the last-named, with dull green leaves, and very ser- 
viceable for edging beds with. B. Aqiiifoliiaii {Mahonia 
AquifoHa), referred to under " Berry-Bearing Trees and Shrubs," 
succeeds well in hungry soils and under the drip of trees. 
In spring the young leaves are suffused with purple, becoming 
with age, and towards autumn again they change to 

A. 'fascicidaris i^Maho?iia fascicularis) is a 

handsome kind, but 
one not often planted. 
Of taller habit than 
the last-named, it 
grows freely, and 
flowers profusely in 
spring. B. nepalensis 
{B. Bealei and Ma- 
honia 7iepalensis) is 
charming; its leaves 
often measure isin. 
long. The yellow 
flowers are suc- 
ceeded by dark 
purple berries. B. 
japonica resembles 
the last-named, but is of more 
vigorous growth. The large, 
leathery, deep green leaves 
are very handsome. 

Bruckenthalia spiculi - 
FOLIA merits a place in the 
rock garden. It is very dwarf, 
neat in growth, and free 
flowering. Its pink bell-shaped 
flowers, stained with purple 
borne on erect stems in July. 




Fig. 273. — Berberis Wallichiana. 



at the base of the interior, 
It loves a moist peatv soil. 



are 



Bryanthus erectus is a hybrid between B. einpetriformis and 
Rhodothavmiis chamcecistiis^ and one of the most charming of dwarf 
Heathworts. It is thoroughly hardy, and should have a peaty, 
well-drained soil. On no account should it be exposed to the 
full sun, as it grows more freely, and its small, narrow leaves 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 427 

are of a richer green in partial shade. The small, delicate, rose- 
pink Kalmia-like flowers are produced at the apex of the growths. 
As an edging to beds of dwarf-growing American shrubs, or for 
a shady nook in the rock garden, it is sure to give satisfaction. 
B. empetriformis {Me?tziesia e?npetrifor?ms, Phyllodoce e77ipetri- 
forniis) forms a neat, compact shrub, less than ift. high, and 
bears an abundance of rosy-purple bell-shaped flowers from 
May until July. A gem for the rock garden. B. taxifoliiis 
{Menziesia ccerulea^ Phyllodoce coerulea) is a neat little bush, 
rarely ever more than Sin. high, and when its slender stems are 
clothed with small, rich green leaves, and crowned with purplish 
bell-shaped flowers in July, is very attractive and uncommon. It 
should be grown in the rock garden. 

BuDDLEiA does not contain many shrubs of value for outdoor 
decoration, as the majority are too tender for general planting, 
but B. globosa (Orange Ball Tree) is an exception, being distinctly 
ornamental. The rich orange flowers, like miniature balls, are 
produced with great freedom in June and July, when the 
majority of shrubs have done flowering. No soil seems too poor 
for it, and planters should note a shrub like this that is so dis- 
tinct in both foliage and flower. 

Buxus. — The best known of this genus is our native B. sem- 
pervirens, a useful, handsome, and always cheerful-looking tree, 
thriving well under various conditions alike as regards soil and 
position. In chalky soils, however, the most luxuriant speci- 
mens are produced. A capital hedge - plant, which, used 
with discretion in the shrubbery border, is effective. A well- 
grown specimen is by no means out of place even on the out- 
skirts of the lawn, and for planting under the drip of trees the 
Box Tree is specially adapted. B. s. microphylla is a small-leaved, 
dwarf-growing variety, of much value. The leaves of B. s. argentea 
are greenish-grey, mottled with creamy-white, and those of B, s. 
aurea variegata a mixture of white and yellow on a dark ground. 
B. s. aurea-marginata is noteworthy as forming a neat bush, 
and its rich green leaves are edged with deep yellow. B. s. 
rotundifolia is conspicuous for its roundish polished green leaves. 
B. s. arborescens is of more vigorous growth, with larger leaves 
than the type. B. s. suffruticosa is familiar in most gardens as 
an edging to walks, &c. Being of slow growth, very little trouble 
is necessary to keep it within bounds, and the best time for 
clipping it is towards the end of May. B. balearica (Minorca 
Box) is not quite so hardy as the type, and prefers a dry to a 
very damp soil. It is of stout growth, with thick pale green leaves, 
occasionally tinted with bronze. B. japonica is useful and of 
compact growth, and its golden-leaved variety {aured) is one of 
the handsomest of the yellow-leaved kinds, and well adapted 
for winter bedding. 



428 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Cassandra calyculata {A7idromeda calyculata, Lyonia caly- 
culata) belongs to the Heath family, and forms a neat, low- 
growing, much-branched shrub, with small, roundish, pale green, 
leathery leaves, and in March bears a rich profusion of small 
waxy-white flowers ; useful for planting in masses on the banks 
of streams or by lake-sides. 

Cassinia fulvida {Diplopappus chrysophyllus). — K stout bush 
of erect habit, with golden-yellow slender stems, small rich green 
leaves, covered with golden-yellow tomentum on the under-surface, 
and terminal panicles of white flowers, borne in autumn and con- 
tinuing in good condition until the middle of November ; a good 
seaside shrub, and valuable for autumn effect. C. leptophylla is 
a companion to the last-named. In this case the stems and 
under-surface of the leaves, as well as the flowers, are white. 
C. Vaiivilliersii is of sturdier, erect growth, and well adapted 
for the rock garden, or for the front of the shrubbery. 

Castanopsis {Castanea) chrysophylla is a close ally of the 
Sweet Chestnut. It is a neat-growing shrub, or small tree, 
with narrow deep green leaves, covered with a golden powder 
on the under-surface. This has a pleasing effect when the 
leaves are disturbed by wind. A rich, loamy, well-drained soil 
suits it well; it rarely grows higher than lolt. in this country. 

Cerasus Lauro-cerasus (Common Laurel) is unfortunately 
planted too freely. In its proper place it is valuable, and when 
grown in groups, and allowed freedom, is attractive when in 
flower. It is also useful for hedge planting, or as a shelter to 
tender shrubs. Being a gross feeder, it should not be too freely 
planted in the shrubbery border. The Caucasian and Colchic 
varieties are ornamental, easily grown, and conspicuous by reason 
of their handsome glossy green leaves. They are also hardier 
than the first -named. C. L. latifolia is a bold, large-leaved 
variety, and C. L. angHstifolia, with its narrow leaves, is worthy 
of recognition. The last-named is not so vigorous in growth 
as those already referred to, but owing to its neat habit is too 
ornamental to ignore. C. L. cajnellmfolia is very uncommon, 
and worthy of extended culture. Its distinct habit of growth, 
roundish, deep glossy green leaves, together with its undoubted 
hardy constitution, are strong recommendations, and planters 
seeking distinct - looking shrubs should make a note of this. 
C. L. rotundifolia is of compact, vigorous habit, with round rich 
green leaves. C. lusitanica [Frumps lusitantca), well known as 
the Portugal Laurel, grows to a height of about 20ft., and is 
a very beautiful evergreen, with deep green leaves ; a fine shrub 
for planting in pleasure-grounds. It may be grown as a 
standard as well as in bush form. On account of its neat 
habit, it has been grown extensively in pots for standing on 
terraces, in corridors, &c. Although not showy, its dull white 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



429 



flowers are borne very freely in long, pendulous racemes. It 
requires a rich loamy soil, and copious supplies of water while 
growth is being made. C. I. albo margijtata has green leaves, 
distinctly edged with cream-white. C. L myrtifolia is of dwarf, 
compact habit, with small Myrtle-like leaves. It is of more 
erect habit than the type, and like it well adapted for growing 
in standard form. C. I. azorica is conspicuous for its larger 
leaves and bigger flowers than the type. 

Choisya ternata (Mexican Orange Flower). — An exquisite 
shrub, with fragrant flowers, and hardier than many suppose. It 
grows freely in ordinary garden soil if sweet and well-drained, 
and forms a cheerful-looking, freely-branched bush, with glossy 
green leaves, relieved in April and May by terminal clusters of 
white Hawthorn-scented flowers. Considering its hardiness and 
beauty, it is astonishing that it is not more generally grown. 
Although hardy, it is as well to protect it from cold winds, 
especially in the North, while a sunny spot should be chosen for 
it to thoroughly ripen the wood. 
When pruning or thinning of the 
shoots is necessary, this should 
be attended to as soon as the 
flowers are over. For forcing it 
is also valuable, as its flowers, 
when cut with long stems, are 
useful for many purposes. 

CiSTUSES (Rock Roses) are 
very showy free-flowering shrubs, 
but unfortunately rather tender. 
In fact, only in dry and well- 
drained soils can their real 
beauty be displayed. Damp, 
cold, low-lying ground is fatal to 
them. Sloping sunny banks are 
necessary to promote thorough 
ripening of the growth, w^ithout 
which a wealth of flowers is 
impossible. They are very 
beautiful when in blossom, and 
succeed in maritime districts. 
The following list comprises 
some of the best kinds : C. 
monspeliensis ; flowers white; Fig. 274.— Cistus ladaniferus 
produced in summer. C. ladan- maculatus. 
iferus (Gum Cistus) grows about 

4ft. high, and bears handsome white flowers in June and July. 
The lanceolate leaves are deep green, and covered with a 
sticky substance on the upper surface. There is also a spotted 




43° 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



variety (inaculafus) (Fig. 274). C. villosiis has deep green 
wrinkled leaves, and is of free growth, whilst it is distinct 
in habit, and bears freely in summer large lilac-coloured 
flowers, tinged with purple. The variety named C. creticus 
is deserving of wider culture. In this case the flowers are 
purplish-red, and borne with great freedom. C. corbariensis (a 
cross between C. salvifolius and C. populifolius) has flowers 
blotched with yellow in the centre. It forms a neat bush, and 
blossoms freely and continuously. C. florentiniis is a lovely 
plant for the rock garden, with neat, compact habit. The white 
flowers are blotched with yellow at the base of each petal. 
C. laurifolius bears large white flowers in summer; it is robust 
and erect in growth, and perhaps the hardiest member of the 
genus. C. albidus is a much-branched kind, with oblong hairy 
leaves, bearing in June rose- and lilac-coloured flowers. C. crispus 
is distinct ; its purple flowers are produced abundantly in summer. 
C. lusitanicus, C. salvifolius^ and C. Thureti are likewise good 
kinds. 

CoTONEASTERS. — See page 460. 
Crataegus Pyracantha. — See page 459. 

Dabcecia polifolia (St. Dabeoc's Heath), occasionally met 
with under the name of Menziesia polifolia, is a dwarf shrub, 

well adapted for 
planting in masses 
in damp soils. It 
should be planted 
in the rock garden, 
also as an edging 
to beds of dwarf- 
growing shrubs. It 
is of compact, 
bushy habit, and 
spreads rapidly. 
Its erect, slender 
shoots are clothed 



with narrow bright 
green leaves, and 
in summer bears 
very freely purplish- 
crimson bell-shaped 
flowers. Ordinary 
soil suits this 

charming little plant, but one composed largely of peat and 
leaf-mould is best. D. p. alba makes a suitable companion to 
the last-named, and is a continuous blossomer ; its flowers 
are pure white. D. p. atropurpurea is conspicuous for its deep 
purple flowers. 




Fig. 275. — Daphne Cneorum. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



Daphnes are charming sweet-scented shrubs. Their cultural 
requirements are very simple, and the flower-display extends over 
several months. Although they thrive well in ordinary soil, they 
give the best results when planted in a moist, peaty soil, with 




to 

0^ 



> 
W 

td 

> 

> 
> 



which has been incorporated a quantity of leaf-mould. Good 
drainage is of importance. D. Cneoriim (Garland Flower) (Fig. 
275) is a good carpet-shrub, with neat deep green leaves and 
fragrant rose-pink flowers, produced sometimes twice a year — in 



432 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



spring and autumn. A capital plant for the rock garden. There 
is a stronger-growing form \?najiis), with larger leaves and flowers ; 
but these are not quite so fragrant as those of the type. There 
is another variety with variegated foliage ; but it is not so 
valuable as either of the foregoing. I), sericea {D. coUijid) 
forms a neat bush of erect habit, about 2ft. high, with glossy 
green leaves and terminal clusters of pale pink flowers. A place 
should be reserved in every rock garden for that rather rare and 
beautiful species named D. Blagayana (Fig. 276), which is of 
spreading habit, and rather slow in growth. In early spring it 
carries a wealth of fragrant cream-white flowers. D. oleoides 
is another early-flowering kind of much beauty. The fragrant 
flower-clusters are white, tinged with pink. It grows about 2ft. 
high, and is of neat habit. D. striata (Snake-barked Daphne), 
also of dwarf habit, bears a profusion of rosy-purple flowers 
about midsummer. D. Laiireola (Spurge Laurel) bears greenish- 
yellow flowers in January, and is valuable on account of the 
ease with which it grows in poor soils and under the drip of 
trees. This species loves partial shade, and its leaves are of 
a richer green than when fully exposed to the sun. It grows 
about 4ft. high, and forms a serviceable stock for working the 
rarer kinds upon. D. po7itica also thrives well under the shade 
of trees. 

Daphniphyllum glaucescens. — A handsome ornamental 
Japanese shrub of compact habit, and not unlike certain dwarf 
Rhododendrons. In this country it has proved thoroughly hardy, 
and when it comes to be better known is sure to be planted freely. 
It is by no means particular as regards the quality of the soil, 
provided suitable drainage is secured. The rich green leaves are 
glaucous on the under-surface, while the crimson footstalks and 
the brownish - red bark add a touch of welcome colour. 
D. g. Jezoe7isis makes a very compact bush, and is useful for 
planting in the front of the shrubbery. It is of slow growth. 

El.^:agnus. — These prefer a fairly rich and well-drained soil, 
and they also flourish in sandy soil where many shrubs merely 
exist. During the winter months, the variegated kinds in 
particular are very bright in the garden, and valuable either 
for placing as isolated specimens on the lawn, or for adding 
colour to the shrubbery ; they are also useful for covering walls, 
and are capital dry-weather shrubs, as they do not show ill 
effects from long drought. Their hardiness is beyond doubt, 
and if planted in a sunny position, the gold- and silver-leaved 
kinds produce pretty pictures. As the colour is constant, planters 
should use them freely ; in fact, the variety named E. pu7ige)is 
aiirea is almost equal in its colouring to some of the fine 
foliaged Codiaeums (Crotons). All form dense round bushes, 
and should be allowed freedom to develop ; beyond the 



ox TREES AND SHRUBS. 



433 



removal of wrongly-placed growths they give little trouble. The 
following are the kinds most worthy of recognition : E. macro- 
phylla bears greenish-yellow flowers in mid-winter ; it is of 
robust, spreading habit, and its roundish leaves are thick in 
texture, bright green above, and silvery on the under-sides. 
E. pimgens also flowers in winter, from November until the 
middle or end of January; it grows about 8ft. high, and is of 
good habit, with oblong deep green leaves, undulated at the 
margins, the under - surface being shaded with silvery-grey. 
E. p. aurea is the most ornamental of the variegated Oleasters, 
and makes a fine lawn shrub, but is less vigorous in growth 
and dwarfer than the type : the broad leaves are wavy at 
the margins, the central portion being deep yellow. In some 
instances the leaves are almost wholly yellow. The leaves of 
E. p. tricolor are sulphur-yellow, with light and deep green 
stripes. E. p. Simo?ii succeeds admirably on dry banks and 
similar positions, as also does E. glabra. E. g. variegata has 
leaves edged with creamy-white. 

E^iPETRUM NIGRUM (Crowbcrry) is a little shrub of Heath-like 
appearance, and delights in moist, peaty soil and shady situations. 
Being of very dwarf habit, it is valuable 
for the rock garden, and may be turned 
to good account as an edging to beds of 
dwarf shrubs. The pink flowers are borne 
in May, and are succeeded by small round 
dark berries (Fig. 277). E. riibriivi bears 
purplish-coloured flowers and red berries. 

Ericas (Heaths) are valuable for their 
showiness when in flower, hardiness, neat 
growth, and the length of time their flowers 
remain in beauty. The colours vary from 
pure white, through pink and rose, to deep 
red. They are of simple culture in peaty 
soil, but grow and flower freely in loamy 
soil, provided lime is not present. A yearly 
top-dressing of good leaf-mould is very 
beneficial to the plants. Their value in 
the rock garden, as well as for edgings to 
beds of permanent shrubs, is well known. 
With a careful selection of varieties a 
display of blossom may be kept up for the 

greater part of the year. E. citierea (ift. yig. 2-7. Empetrum 

high) bears in June and July a wealth of nigrum. 
purple flowers. There are several varie- 
ties, diflering in the colour of the flowers — alba^ rosea, atro- 
purpurea, atrosanguiiiea, pallida^ and coccinea being the best. 
E. ciliaris (about i8in. high) bears deep pink or crimson flowers 

2 F 




434 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



from midsummer onwards. E. arborea assumes quite a tree- 
like habit, and carries a rich profusion of small flowers from 
February to May. E. Mackai {E. Mackaiana) is of dwarf 
habit, and has pretty pink flowers. E. Tetralix is a charming 
Heath with terminal racemes of pale pink flowers in July, 
while the varieties alba and 7'2ibra are useful and showy too. 
E. carnea (Winter Heath) is very neat in growth, and bears an 
abundance of pink flowers from mid-December until spring. 
The white-flowered form {alba) makes a good companion. Both 
are thoroughly hardy, and useful either for edgings to beds or as 
undergrowth to such things as Azaleas. They are also worthy of 
a place at the foot of the rockery. E. stricta is of neat, erect 
habit, grows about 5ft. high, and bears terminal clusters of 
reddish-purple flowers abundantly in summer. E. Iusita7iica 
{E. codcmodes) is an abundant blossomer. Although not 
possessing such a hardy constitution as some Heaths, it is well 
deserving of a sheltered nook. In favoured localities it makes 
a handsome bush, and from about the end of January (in mild 
winters) till May, when its slender twigs are bearing their 
pendent white flowers touched with pink, it is one of the most 
attractive objects in the American garden. E. meditej-ranea forms 
a neat and pretty bush, with pitcher-shaped pink flowers, pro- 
duced early in the year. The white-flowered form {alba) is 
also noteworthy, and hiberiiica is valuable, too, and later in 
coming into flower than the type, but the one named hybrida 
is not only the earliest, but also the most profuse blossomer of 
the group. The flowers are a lovely shade of pink. This kind 
is not planted half so freely as its merits entitle it. E. vagans 
(Cornish Heath) is an erect species, very free and popular, 
with pinkish-white flowers in summer and autumn. Its varieties, 
alba^ rubi-a, and gra?idiJlora, are pretty and very free. E. calluna 
vulgaris is well-known, but some of its more interesting and 
beautiful varieties are not so familiar in gardens as they might be. 
Hainnwjidi is of free growth and a choice Heath, with an 
abundance of pure white flowers, ciiprea forms a neat tuft and 
is very distinct, while its yellow leaves assume a bronzy hue in 
winter. Alporti is another compactly-habited kind, as well as free- 
flowering, coccinea is conspicuous for its deep red flowers. Other 
good varieties are rosea, Eoxii, Searlei, alba, and laiiulosa. 

Eriobotrya japonica {Mespilus japo?iica). — A handsome shrub, 
with enormous deep green leaves. The pendulous racemes of 
white flowers appear late in summer, and when grown under 
glass the pale orange fruits (Fig. 278) are freely borne. It 
is a useful and an ornamental wall-shrub. 

EscALLONiAS are referred to under " Wall Shrubs and 
Climbers " ; but the most useful kind of all, E. Pliilippia?ia, is 
not included, as it does not need this protection, and may be 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



435 



planted with safety in the open shrubbery. The long pendulous 
branches are well clothed with narrow pale green leaves, and 
in June and July numbers of tiny white flowers are produced. 
E. sangui?iea, E. punctata^ and E. exoniensis are all good. 

Eucalyptus. — Of this genus only E. Gunni is hardy, and 
even this can only be planted in the warmer counties. 
E. coccifera is almost as hardy, and, where it succeeds, is orna- 
mental. E. globulus (Gum Tree) grows very rapidly until late 
in the season, consequently the wood is not sufficiently ripened 




Fig. 278. — Eriobotrya japonica. 



to withstand an English winter without protection ; it is, how- 
ever, well adapted for sub-tropical bedding. The lemon-scented 
E. citriodora is worth cultivating indoors, as its leaves are fragrant. 

EuRYBiA. — See Olearia. 

Fabiana imbricata (False Heath) is hardy only in sheltered 
spots in the open air North of London. It is of somewhat similar 
habit to the well known Heather, and in June bears pure white 
tubular-shaped flowers, which last in condition for several weeks. 
It is a useful plant for an unheated greenhouse, but requires 
good drainage. Ordinary soil will suit it, especially if a little 
peat and leaf-mould is incorporated with it. Copious supplies of 
water should be given during growth. 

Gaultheria. — See page 458. 

2 F 2 



43^ 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Griselinia littoralis, planted in rich, well-drained soil, and a 
sunny spot, is quite hardy in the South and West of England, 
forming a neat bush, with erect stout stems and roundish, thick, 
pale green leaves ; it is, moreover, a good sea-coast shrub. 
G. Iiicida and G. /. macrophylla are handsome glossy-leaved 
shrubs, but only thrive out of doors in favoured localities. 

Helianthemums (Sun Roses).— These are charming plants of 
dwarf habit, well adapted for the rock garden and as margins to 
beds of dwarf-growing shrubs. A bank sloping to the south 
suits them admirably, as they only flower freely when exposed to 
the sun. They succeed in ordinary soil, which, must, however, 
be well drained, a cold, stiff, heavy soil being the most unsuitable 
for them. H. formosiim forms a much-branched bush 3ft. or 4ft. 
high, and in summer bears a profusion of yellow flowers spotted 
with black. During severe winters it sometimes gets cut, hence 
the advisability of a sunny bank, so as to enable it to 
thoroughly ripen its growths. H. Libanotis grows freely, and 
carries a wealth of yellow flowers in July, H. polifolium is a 
compact-growing species, with white flowers. H. ocymoides 
{IT. algarve7ise) grows about 2ft. high, and is of diffuse habit. The 
large clear yellow flowers are spotted with purple at the base. 
a. viilgare and its beautiful varieties (single and semi-double) 
have richly-coloured flowers varying from white to yellow and 
orange, and from red to deep crimson. 

Hymenanthera crassifolia. — See page 458. 

Hypericum Hookerianuai {H. oblongifoliiwi) is a vigorous, 
hardy, free-blossoming Himalayan species, with deep green leaves, 
and in August carries clusters of lovely buttercup-yellow flowers 
of large size. This is undoubtedly one of the most meritorious 
of the stronger-growing Hypericums, and is well suited for 
grouping on the turf. 

Ilex x\quifolium (Holly) is a splendid evergreen, and 
indispensable in ornamental planting. A tree, 30ft. high, with its 
lower branches clothed with prickly, polished-green leaves sweeping 
the ground, is indeed a handsome picture. Although it flourishes 
in the shade, it is perhaps the finest evergreen for planting as 
isolated specimens in the park, on the outskirts of the lawn, or 
in any position with full exposure. As a hedge-plant, ■ its value 
is beyond question, and in this position it forms a dense, im- 
penetrable, and ornamental breakwind. Holly is easily accommo- 
dated, and grows freely in all soils unless the position is a damp 
and boggy one. Groups of Hollies, with a few spring-flowering 
trees intermixed, such as Almonds, Peaches, Hawthorns, 
&c., produce a telling efl"ect in March and April, when the 
delicate-tinted blossoms of the last-named are seen to excellent 
advantage against a background formed by deep green Holly 
leaves. The autumn and winter eff"ect, when the Holly is carrying 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



437 



its wealth of cheerful coloured berries, is equally pleasing, and 
effective, too. 

With regard to the best time for transplanting Hollies, a point 
about which many cultivators differ, it may be taken for 
granted that the operation may be successfully carried out 
between early autumn and late spring, provided the ground 
is in a suitable condition to receive them. Moist weather 
should be chosen for the purpose, and care should be exer- 
cised in lifting them to have a good ball of soil to the 
roots, and if the weather is dry, to water freely overhead and at 
the roots immediately after planting ; if the atmosphere 
should continue dry, and strong winds prevail, the plants 
should be watered overhead every other day or so. Early 
autumn is perhaps preferable to spring, as the roots become 
established in the fresh soil before winter, and are enabled to 
commence growth in the following spring without feeling any ill 
effects. 

The importance of frequently transplanting Hollies in a young 
state cannot be over-estimated, as they are encouraged to make 
large quantities of fibrous roots, which are of great value in after 
years, especially if large trees have outgrown their positions, and 
it becomes necessary to transfer them elsewhere. Hollies are 
amenable to many forms of culture, and beautiful in whatever 
form they are grown, the standard, bush, pyramid, and weeping 
forms fitting them for a variety of positions in both the garden and 
the pleasure-ground. They can be propagated by seeds, cuttings, 
layering, budding, and grafting. The type is raised from seed, 
which should be gathered as soon as ripe, and mixed with sand, 
placed in a heap, and kept there until spring or the following 
autumn. The heap should be turned over every fourth or fifth 
week, and at the sowing time the seed should be separated 
from the sand, and sown either in slightly-raised beds 4ft. 
broad, or in drills, and covered with fine soil. In about two 
years from the time of sowing, the seedlings will be large enough 
for transplanting in nursery rows. 

The variegated forms are generally increased by budding in 
summer, and by grafting in spring ; but this method is not 
altogether necessary, or even advisable, as cuttings root freely 
if young, well-ripened pieces of the current year's growth are 
taken off in August and inserted in a sandy bed on a sheltered 
border, and covered with handlights or frames. They should 
be kept moist, very little air admitted, and, of course, shaded 
from the sun until roots have been emitted. The weeping 
varieties are worked on the green-leaved form. In addition to 
those referred to at page 459, the following represent the cream 
of the various groups : 

Green-leaved : /. dipyre?ia is quite hardy, and uncommon in 
this country. It grows freely, and forms a much-branched tree 



438 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



of pyramidal habit, with long and rather narrow serrated leaves. 
/. crenata is a dwarf slow-growing species, with small, ovate, 
glossy green leaves. /. latvfolia is a noble-looking Holly, with 
Magnolia-like foliage. In the South of England it is hardy, but 
in the northern counties requires the protection of a wall. It is 
vigorous in growth, with leaves Qin. long by 3in. broad. They 
are oblong-lanceolate, and toothed at the margins. /. cornuta 
deserves a place on account of its distinct appearance. The 
stiff leaves are supplied with from three to five formidable 
spines. 

Of forms belonging to I. Aquifoliinn the following are 
meritorious : nigrescens, large, broad, smooth green leaves, ferox 
(Hedgehog Holly), with its curled spiny leaves, the upper 
surface being furnished with numerous short prickles, reciirva 
{tortuosa)^ sometimes called Screw Holly, also has small curled 
leaves, latispina is free in growth, with broad leaves and long 
spines. Hodginsi is a grand variety, and well adapted for 
avenues, and is of good growth ; the broad leaves are beset with 
short spines, and it carries an abundance of berries, atrovirens 
{Madeirensis atrovirens) is another handsome variety, with large 
flat leaves of a pale green colour, platyphylla is a first-rate 
variety, with broad polished green leaves, pyramidal habit, and 
a good berry-bearer. ovata, although not of quick growth, 
should not be passed over. Henderso?ii is an invaluable kind 
for decorative planting, free in growth, with handsome, broad, 
smooth, glossy green leaves, scotica is also worthy of mention. 
donningtonensis is conspicuous for its long, sharply-pointed, spiny 
leaves, and is a beautiful kind. 

Golden-leaved : aiirea angiistifolia is of free growth, with narrow 
prickly leaves, pale green in the centre, and edged with yellow. 
aurea regina (Golden Queen) has long been recognised as a 
handsome Holly ; the large leaves have a bold, irregular, deep 
yellow margin, while the central portion is of a polished green, 
speckled with silvery-grey. Golden King is a new and even 
finer variety than the last-named ; in habit it is similar to the 
well-known Hodgins Holly, from which it is a sport. The leaves 
are larger than those of Golden Queen, and the colouring is more 
intense : a fine acquisition. Madame Briot is showy, and very 
free; the large greenish-yellow leaves are margined with clear 
yellow. Cookii is distinct, but less decorative than those 
mentioned above. Wateriana {aurea pumila and Waterer's Dwarf 
Golden) is a gem, growing freely, and forming a compact bush, 
with smooth green leaves, shaded with yellow in the centre, and 
bordered with deep yellow ; for small gardens this is a grand 
Holly, flavescens (Moonlight) is conspicuous by reason of its 
leaves being blotched and suffused with yellow, aurea marginata 
broinelicefolia is an excellent kind, with large ovate leaves and 
few spines ; it is a rich green, with a bold margin of rich 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



439 



yellow, Lawsoniana is an effective variety ; the leaves are large, 
and blotched with yellow. 

Silver-leaved : argeiitea 7nedio-picfa {albo-picta)^ popularly called 
Silver Milkmaid, is very distinct, and of good habit. With the 
exception of a bordering of deep green, the whole of the leaf is 
creamy-white, ferox argentea (Silver Hedgehog Holly) is well 
worth a place, being of dense growth ; the leaves are blotched 




Fig. 279. — Kalmia latifolia. 



with silvery-grey, and covered with short spines, argentea elegan- 
tissima is a lovely variety, with prickly leaves, rich green in the 
centre, and cream-white margins, argentea marginata {albo inar- 
ginata) is very free in growth, with large polished green leaves, 
having broad white margins, handsworthensis argentea is another 
attractive sort, with leaves marbled with grey, and edged with 
cream-white. argentea regina (Silver Queen) is very showy, and 



440 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

• 

one of the most meritorious of the section. Being free in 
growth, and of excellent habit, it is well adapted for pleasure- 
grounds. The leaves are large, and broadly-margined with white. 

Kalmia. — Although the genus is not a large one, comprising 
only about half a dozen species, it is specially valuable where 
dwarf-growing shrubs are required. Generally, it is supposed that 
peaty soil is essential, but it has been proved that these shrubs 
are a success when grown in loam, especially if a quantity of 
leaf-mould has been incorporated with it ; soil containing lime 
and chalk is injurious to them. Kalmias are well adapted 
for forcing into blossom in winter and early spring. For this 
purpose plants may be potted up in the autumn and taken 
into heat in batches according to the requirements of the 
place. After flowering, they should be placed in a gentle heat 
to encourage new growths, and the syringe used freely. Later 
on they should be hardened off and planted out on a warm 
sunny border to ripen the wood properly. 

The first kind to flower in the open air is K. glaiica (Swamp 
Laurel), a dwarf-growing shrub rarely seen more than i8in. to 
2ft. high. It is a useful front-line plant in the shrubbery, and 
its great clusters of bright pink flowers are borne in April. The 
linear lanceolate leaves are glossy green above and glaucous 
green beneath. K. latifolia (American Mountain Laurel) (Fig. 279) 
is one of the most charming of dwarf-flowering shrubs, and when 
planted in masses produces a lovely picture. It has broad 
shining green leaves, and terminal clusters of pale rose flowers, 
changing to white with age. It is also attractive for its foliage 
alone. K. I. viyrtifolia has small Myrtle-like leaves and smaller 
flowers than the type, but is very effective. K. angustifolia (Sheep 
Laurel) grows less than 3ft. high, and bears dark red flowers 
freely in May and June. K. a. ovata, K. a. rubra, and K. a. 
rosea are attractive and easily grown. 

Laurus nobilis (Sweet Bay) may be grown either as a pyramid 
or standard, delighting in rich soil, and requiring good drainage, as 
it soon wears a sickly appearance if water lodges about the roots. 
A position screened from east winds is advisable. It is a fine 
tree for growing in pots and tubs for placing in vestibules, halls, 
and cool conservatories in winter. The lanceolate aromatic leaves 
are of a rich polished green. There are about half a dozen 
varieties, differing in size, form, and colour of the leaves, but 
none are of greater decorative value than the type. 

Ledums are attractive shrubs of neat growth, quite hardy, and 
as they flower early are valuable for both forcing and room- 
decoration during winter, as well as for adding variety to the 
shrubbery-border in April and May, when their growths are crowned 
with small flowers. Although they succeed in loamy soil, they 
give the best results when planted in one mixed with peat and 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



441 



leaf-mould. Water should be given liberally while growth is 
being made. Several kinds are available, but it is only necessary 
here to mention pahistre^ latifoliiim, and glauditlosiim. L. paliistre 
(Marsh Ledum) is the kind most generally met with, and forms a 
dwarf, much-branched bush, about 2ft. high, with small, narrow, 
deep green, dehghtfully-aromatic leaves, conspicuous for the 
rusty tomentum on the under-surface. The terminal clusters of 
Rosemary-like flowers are white, and borne very freely. L. lati- 
foliiun (Z. palustre latifolium and L. grcEiilandicuni)^ well known 
as the Labrador Tree, the leaves of which have been used as a 
substitute for tea, differs from L. palustre^ being more vigorous and 
compact in growth, with larger leaves and finer clusters of white 
flowers, that are sometimes suffused with pink when first expanded. 

Leiophyllum buxifolium (Z. serpyllifoliiim^ Z. thy7nifolhiin^ 
Ammyrsine buxifolia^ Ledum buxifoliiwi). — This delightful 
little Sand Myrtle is a gem amongst dwarf-growing Ericacece, but 
rarely met with outside good collections of hardy shrubs. It 
grows about loin. high, is of compact habit, with small, narrow, 
rich green Box-like leaves, and small white flowers and un- 
opened rose-pink buds, and is most attractive. A sandy peat soil 
suits it best. It is serviceable for edgings to beds of dwarf 
American shrubs, as well as worthy of a place in the rock 
garden. Z. b. prostratum (Z. Lyo?ii and Ammyrsine prosh^ata) 
is equally hardy and very showy, but is better adapted for 
the rock garden. 

Leucothoes, — Although these shrubs have a preference for 
damp, peaty soil, they flourish in good loam provided it is free 
from lime. All the Leucothoes are very satisfactory planted 
on the margins of lakes and streams. Z. axillaris {^Andromeda 
axillaris) grows about 2^ft. high, and bears white flowers in 
May and June. Z, Davisice is a compact-growing species, with 
small deep green leaves and clusters of white flowers. Z. race- 
mosa (Z. spicata, Andromeda spicata) is of good habit and 
bears slender spikes of white flowers. Z. recurva {Andromeda 
recurva) is of dwarfer habit than the last, and it produces in 
summer racemes of pale pink bell-shaped flowers. Z. Cafesbcsi 
{Andromeda Catesbai) grows freely, and carries a profusion of 
white flowers. 

LiGUSTRUMS (Privets) are represented in many gardens only 
by Z. ovalifolium (oval-leaved) and its golden-leaved form. The 
first-named is useful for hedges on account of its quick growth, 
but, owing to its hungry roots, soon exhausts the soil, and for 
this reason should not be planted too freely, especially in the 
vicinity of the kitchen garden, Z. o. foliis aureis (Z. califor- 
7iicum aureum) is a showy, useful, and popular yellow-leaved 
Privet, well adapted for town gardens, window boxes, and for 
winter bedding. Though less vigorous than the type, the rich 



442 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



cream-white flowers 
coriaceimi^ Fig. 280) 



colouring of the foliage is constant, particularly when grown 
in partial shade. It thrives well in dry soils, and is improved 
by hard pruning. L. mpo?iiciim (Z. macrophyllum^ L. Roxbiirghii^ 
L. Keller ?7iamii^ L. syringafloruni) forms a handsome free- 
growing shrub, and bears loose panicles of shghtly fragrant 

in July. L. coriaceum (Z. lucidiim 
is of sturdy habit, slow growth, has 
roundish deep glossy green leaves, and is very shy flowering. 

Z. lucidum {L. magnolicEfoliiim^ 
Z. sinense latifoliiim robiistum) 
is a lovely species, and when 
planted in rich soil reaches a 
height of from loft. to i6ft. ; the 
panicles of white flowers are 
borne abundantly in summer. 
Z. /, tricolor {L. japonicum tri- 
color) has prettily-marked foliage, 
but is not quite so hardy as 
the last-named. Z. /. Triomphe 
de Bordeaux is of branching 
habit, with rich glossy green 
leaves. Z. /. alivoni is also 
ornamental, and Z. 
sinense (Z. chinense^ 
Z. Fortiinei) should 
not be omitted from 
a list of attractive free- 
flowering shrubs. The 
latter is really sub- 
evergreen, and suc- 
ceeds admirably in 
dry soil, assuming a 
freely-branched bush 
of pleasing outline. Its 
large loose panicles of 
white flowers are borne 
about the middle of 
June, and last long in 
condition. 

Privets are not noted for their beauty as berry-bearing shrubs, 
but the last-named species (Z. sinense) deserves special mention, 
as it is superior in this respect to all the other members of the 
genus, and is very effective, the small round dark berries hanging 
on the bushes for the greater part of the winter. Z. Quihoui 
(Z. brachystachiiini) is the last Privet to blossom, frequently 
disporting its long terminal panicles of fragrant cream-white 
flowers in October and November. It is free, rather straggling 
or loose in habit, and distinct. As it flowers so late in the 




Fig. 280. — LiGusTRUM lucidum coriaceum. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



443 



season, it is specially valuable for shrubbery or pleasure-ground 
planting. 

Olearias. — The hardiest of these is O. Haastii (Daisy Bush), 
a choice dwarf-growing shrub, free in growth, forming a 
dense, upright, much-branched bush, 5ft. high, with small Box- 
like leaves and pure 
white, sweet-scented, 
Daisy-like flowers in 
July and August. 
The flowers are 
carried abundantly, 
even on small plants, 
and last in con- 
dition for several 
weeks. O. Gunniana 
(Fig. 281), though 
not as hardy as the 
first-named, will, 
nevertheless, thrive 
if provided with a 
sheltered spot. In 
groups on the turf, 
a pleasing effect is 
obtained by plant- 
ing Gladiolus, Lilies, &:c., between them, as a long succession of 
flowers is maintained. 

OsMANTHUS. — The Osmanthuses are cultivated principally for 
their handsome Holly-like foliage, but their clusters of small 
white and cream-white flowers are deliciously scented, and borne in 
the axils of the leaves very freely on good-sized plants in autumn. 
The soil should be rich and well drained, and they should be 
planted in a position shielded from east winds. Their value for 
walls is referred to elsewhere, and they are well adapted for planting 
as isolated specimens on the lawn, and for growing in pots for 
placing on balconies, in vestibules, halls, &c., they have few 
equals. Another use for which they are well suited is winter 
bedding, and the best for this purpose is the variety named 
piirpureus. They are also serviceable for filling window boxes. 
Numerous varieties are now in commerce, differing from the 
type in the size, form, and colour of the leaf. All are decidedly 
ornamental shrubs or small trees of neat habit and free growth. 
O. Aquifolium {Oka AquifoUum) is a beautiful shrub, and in good 
soil forms a large well-balanced bush, with broad, leathery. Holly- 
like leaves of a pleasing shade of green. O. ilicifolius purpureus 
is one of the finest of all the Osmanthuses. In habit it 
resembles O. ilicifolius^ but the young leaves are wholly purple, 
and with age become purplish-bronze. It is hardier than the 
type. O. i. latifoliiLS variegatus has leaves margined with 




444 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



cream-white, and O. i. aureus-marginatus leaves edged with 
yellow. O. i. rotundifolms^ whose leaves are nearly round, is 
best adapted for the rock garden. O. /. myrtifoliiis is of 
dwarf habit 'and free, and forms a neat, dense bush, with small, 
thick, sharply-pointed. Myrtle-like leaves ; it deserves a prominent 
position in the shrubbery. 

Although the Osmanthuses grow on their own roots, they may 
be worked on stocks of the Common Privet in spring, and 
placed in warm, close cases until a union has been formed, and 
then removed to cooler quarters and grown on until the follow- 
ing spring, at which time they will be nice-sized plants for 
transferring to the open ground. 

OzoTHAMNUS ROSMARiNiFOLius (Snow Flower). — A shrub of 
elegant habit, whose small white Daisy-like flowers, if cut with 
long stems, are very useful for indoor decoration, and last a 
considerable time in perfection. Unfortunately, this shrub is not 
hardy all over the British Isles. It thrives in ordinary soil, but 
prefers one composed of peat, loam, and leaf-mould in equal 
proportions. The drainage should be good. 

Pernettyas. — See page 458. 

Philesia buxifolia is of dwarf habit, rarely exceeding 4ft. 
It is slow in growth, and quite at home in the rock garden. In 
very cold localities it should have a place in unheated glass 
structures. Its deep red drooping Lapageria-like flowers are 
borne with moderate freedom. 

Phillyrea. — There are about four species. A useful group of 
hardy shrubs, and with the exception of decora, referred to 
under " Berry-Bearing Trees and Shrubs," all have small leaves, 
mostly of a deep green colour, and are indigenous to the 
Mediterranean region. They are by no means difficult to accom- 
modate, and there are few positions in which they wall not 
thrive. They are well adapted for planting under the shade and 
drip of trees. P. angustifolia is a dense round-headed bush ; it 
makes a nice lawn shrub, and its small white flowers are 
produced very freely. P. a. rosmaj'ijiifolia is of dwarfer habit. 
P. latifolia ilicifolia and P. 1. rotundifolia are pleasing shrubs of" 
neat growth. P. media (P. variabilis media) is a much-branched 
bush or small tree, and useful for planting in exposed situations. 
The variety buxifolia (Box-leaved) and olecefolia (Olive-leaved) are 
also worthy of note. P. decora (P. Vilmoriniana, P. laurifolia) 
is the most ornamental of the genus. It is perfectly hardy, 
beautiful in foliage, and distinct, either when bearing its small 
fragrant flowers, or its round black berries in August. 

Phlomis fruticosa (Jerusalem Sage) is valuable chiefly for 
its accommodating nature, as it succeeds admirably in gravelly 
soils and on dry banks. It is of free, bushy growth, with 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



445 



deep green wrinkled leaves, and rich yellow flowers produced 
in whorls during summer. 

Phyllostachys. — See Bamboos. 

PiERis. — Decorative hardy shrubs, generally planted in peaty 
soil, but thriving in rich well-drained loam, to which has been 
added a quantity of leaf-mould. Like the rest of the Ericacea 
they have a great dislike to lime. They delight in being kept 
moist at the roots, and during the growing season (especially 
in dry weather) should be occasionally watered overhead. 
Being surface-rooting plants an annual top-dressing of vegetable 
matter not only tends to keep the roots cool but increases 
the vigour of the plants. P. floribiinda {^Andromeda fioribiinda) 
is perfectly hardy, with thick green leaves, and bears a profusion 
of white flowers in branching terminal racemes. The buds are 
formed in winter, but do not expand until the end of March. 
For forcing into blossom about Christmas time it is also useful. 
P. japonica (^Andromeda japonicd) is a charming dwarf early- 
flowering species of rather slow growth, with handsome foliage 
and drooping racemes of white bell-shaped flowers. There is a 
variegated form of the last-named that deserves to be mentioned, 
and is known as P. j. va?'iegata. It is rather slow in growth, 
with pale green leaves, irregularly margined and splashed with 
white, and this bright variegation is happily constant. 
P. fonnosa {Andro??ieda formosa) is a rare and beautiful Himalayan 
species with deep green, finely-serrated leaves, tinged with 
brownish-red in spring, and erect pure white flowers. As this 
species is somewhat tender, it should be planted in a sheltered 
nook. P. ovalifolia {A?idromeda ovalifolia) is a tall-growing species, 
hardier than the last-named, and with flesh-coloured flowers. 

PiPTANTHUS. — P. nepalensis {Baptisia fiepalensis, Ajiagyris 
nepalensis^ Ther7nopsis laburnifolia) bears a wealth of pale 
yellow pea-shaped flowers in early summer in the open air in 
this country. It is of quick growth and not at all exacting 
as to soil, but dislikes a north and east aspect, as it is apt to 
suffer from cold winds and hard frosts ; therefore, it should be 
grown against a wall in districts north of London. 

PoLYGALA CHAMiEBUXUS {ChapicEbuxus alpestris). — This is useful 
for either the rock garden or as an edging to beds or borders of 
dwarf shrubs. Its racemes of fragrant cream-coloured flowers, 
tipped with purple, are borne in May. The purple-flowered 
variety {purpurea) is equally dwarf and sturdy in habit, and the 
more attractive. Polygalas are showy, dwarf in habit, and delight 
in moist, peaty soil. 

QuERCus, — Evergreen Oaks, especially Q. Ilex, are splendid 
trees for pleasure-grounds, as well as for standing as isolated 
specimens on lawns. They vary much in habit and height. For 



446 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



instance, Q. coccifera forms a dense bush about loft. high, while 
Q. Ilex is, if we except the Mammoth Conifers, one of the 
largest of evergreen trees hardy in this country. They are not 
so free in growth as the majority of the deciduous sorts, and as 
they are rather sparsely furnished with fibrous roots, great care 
should be taken in transplanting them, always securing, if 
possible, a good ball of earth to the roots. Q. Ballota (Q. cyclo- 
phylla, Q. Ilex Ballota) forms a handsome tree of 20ft. 
or so high, with furrowed, greyish bark, and short, roundish, 
serrated, pale green leaves, having a white substance on their 

under-sides. Q. coccifei-a (Q. 
^ermesiana), noted above, is 
thoroughly hardy, and rather 
slow in growth, with small, oval, 
smooth, deep green, spiny leaves. 
Q. cuspidata^ a Japanese species, 
with its variegated, broad, and 
narrow-leaved varieties, is hand- 
some. Q. Suher (Cork Oak) 
(Fig. 282), an old inhabitant of 
gardens, has distinct rugged 
bark, and forms a small round- 
headed tree, which rarely exceeds 
15ft. in height in this country. 
Q. Turneri is well adapted for 
avenue-planting, being shapely 
and free in growth, with large 
deep green serrated leaves. Q. 
phillyrceoides (Q. 7'otunda)^ with 
smooth, rich green, serrated 
leaves, is of bushy habit and 
distinct appearance. Q. acuta. 
(Q. Biie7'ge7'ii^ Q. angusti- 
folia) is, unfortunately, rather 
scarce in gardens ; it is never- 
theless very distinct. Q. densifio7'a 
{Q. eclmiaced) is a handsome 
species, with deep green leathery 
leaves. It requires protection from biting winds. Q. ag7'ifolia 
(Q. arcoglaiidis) and Q. ser7'ata deserve mention, and are rather 
slow in growth. Q. glandulifeTa forms a much-branched tree, with 
a well-balanced head, and is useful for decorative planting. 
Another kind, glabra, is attractive and hardy, and forms a 
good-sized bush, with large smooth green leaves, but should be 
protected from east winds. Q. Ilex (Holm Oak), a well-known 
dense round-headed tree, grows freely in ordinary soil, and reaches 
a height of 40ft. The spreading branches are clothed with deep 
polished green narrow leaves, which, if not pruned in, almost 




Fig. 282. — QuERCus Suber. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



447 



sweep the surface of the ground. It is not of rapid growth, but 
is of great duration. Of the several varieties belonging to this 
species, the following are the most meritorious : laiifolia (Q. Ilex 
oblonga), jFordii, rotundifolia, Gra7?iuntia, diversifolia, and crispa. 

Rhamnus Alaternus is a neat shrub or small tree, rarely 
exceeding 15ft. high, with deep glossy green leaves, and bears 
small white flowers very freely in spring. R. a. angustifolitis 
has narrower leaves, and the colour is a pleasing shade of green. 

R. a. a. variegatus has silvery-grey leaves margined with white, 
and is very effective. R. a. aureus has broader leaves than the 
last-named, and these are speckled with yellow on a dark green 
ground. Rhamnuses succeed in ordinary soil, and the silver- 
leaved variety is well adapted (although perfectly hardy) for 
growing in cold glass structures, as the variegation is much finer 
than upon specimens grown out of doors. 

Rhaphiolepis. — 5^6' page 461. 

Rhododendrons are exceedingly beautiful flowering and 
foliage shrubs, and happy in loam as well as in peat. The 
flowers are varied in colour and often sweet-scented. The 
foliage, too, affords pleasing variety with its light and deep green, 
bronze, purple, and even variegated forms. With a careful 
selection of kinds a brilliant display of blossom may be main- 
tained from the end of February until the latter part of June, 
and in some seasons till nearly the end of July. The flowers of 
the early-blossoming sorts are sometimes damaged by spring frosts, 
and east and north-east winds are injurious. As soon as the 
flowers are over, the seed-vessels should be picked off, unless 
seed is wanted. 

Rhododendrons should have a surface-dressing of leaf-mould in 
spring, and copious supplies of water at the roots during dry 
weather will be of immense benefit to them. The best effects 
are produced when planted in masses according to the colours 
of the flowers, care being taken to allow sufficient room, so 
that the characters of each sort can be displayed to advantage, 
and if bulbs such as Liliums are planted between them, a 
charming effect is obtained. In addition to growing them as 
bushes, they are also effective as standards with a clean stem 
4ft. high, and placed at intervals along the outskirts of the 
lawn, with Scillas, Triteleias, or even Violas grouped around 
them. 

Of the Himalayan species, the best are as described below : 
R. Thomsoni forms a neat bush, and is quite hardy; the loose 

trusses of deep crimson flowers are borne in May. R. cam- 

panulatum has bell-shaped rosy-lilac flowers, spotted with purple ; 

it grows freely, and forms a well-balanced bush 6ft. high. 

R. fidgens is a strikingly handsome species, with bright red flowers. 

R. niveum^ with deep green Laurel-like leaves, covered with white 



448 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



tomentum on the under-sides, bears pale lilac flowers, with deeper 
blotches. R. ciliatum deserves a place in front of taller-growing 
shrubs, being neat in growth and having small hairy leaves and 
rose-tinted flowers produced freely on young plants. R. campylo- 
carpum is one of the loveliest of dwarf-growing species, with 
small deep green leaves. It is perfectly hardy, and bears soft 
primrose-yellow flowers in quite a small state. R. glaiicum is 
another dwarf-growing species not generally cultivated, though 
distinct, beautiful, and hardy. The pale purple flowers are borne 
very profusely on well-established plants. 

Of the American species R. maximum is very handsome, with 
delicate rose-coloured flowers. It is useful for the woodland. 
R. catawbiejise is of vigorous growth, with broad flat leaves and 
lilac-purple flowers ; its variegated form deserves mention, as its 
foliage is distinctly marked with yellow. R. califorjiicum has 
large rose-purple flowers, spotted with yellow. 

R. Sminowi^ a native of the Caucasus, is a valuable species 
of recent introduction, and as yet rare in this country, but 



^ I'll r gineicm (Alpine Rose) rarely 

exceeds 2ft., and has rose- 
FiG. 283. — Rhododendron ponticum. coloured flowers. It is use- 
ful for edgings to beds and 
borders planted with dwarf-growing shrubs, and deserves a place 
on the rockery. R. f. afrococcineiim, R. f. myrtifolinm. and R. f. 
variegatum are all worthy of a place in the rock-garden. 

R. hirsuium and R. h. album are dwarf-growing sorts of 
compact habit, with red and white flowers respectively. Of 




as its merits become better 
known is sure to be planted 
freely. It is of rather slow 
growth, and forms a dense 
bush, with large pale green 
leaves covered with white 
tomentum on the under 
sides, and in spring bears 
loose trusses of rosy-lilac 
flowers, the broad petals be- 
ing crimped at the margins. 



R. ponticum (Fig. 283) is 
noteworthy as being one of 
the parents of a host of 
beautiful hybrids that adorn 
our gardens and pleasure- 
grounds. It is better 
adapted for the woodland 
than the garden. The varie- 
gated form, albo-margiiiatum^ 
is very showy. R. ferru- 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



449 



all the dwarf-growing Rhododendrons, R. racemosiim is pre- 
eminent. It is perfectly hardy, of neat growth, and par- 
ticularly useful for the rock garden. The leathery leaves are 
small, deep green above, and glaucous beneath. The small 
flowers are pink, and the unopened buds are bright rose-pink, 
and borne in axillary and terminal clusters in early spring. 
R. Fortunei is one of the most delightful of all the hardy sweet- 
scented Rhododendrons. The fragrant bell-shaped flowers, 
produced in dense trusses, are white suffused with delicate pink. 
The leaves are quite smooth and of a beautiful glaucous grey 
colour. It is quite hardy. This charming species has beem 
crossed with some of the Himalayan species, as well as with 
some of the finer hardy varieties, with the result that the 
Fortunei hybrids are amongst the most handsome of outdoor 
Rhododendrons. The following are specially good varieties : 
Luscombei is rare, with delicately-tinted flowers ; Duke of York 
carries great clusters of bright pink flowers, spotted with brown 
on the upper petals — very free flowering ; Duchess of York is a 
capital companion to it, the flowers being soft pink, running to 
rose-pink towards the edges of the roundish petals, the upper 
ones being spotted with green ; Mrs. W. T. Thiselton-Dyer is 
perhaps the most beautiful of the Fortunei hybrids, the compact 
trusses of rose-pink flowers blotched with maroon being very 
handsome. Profusion, H. M. Arderne, and High Beech Hybrid 
all merit attention. 

Other choice hybrids and crosses are : Ma?iglesii (R. Aucklandt 
X album elega?is), which is vigorous and quite hardy. Its 
handsome trusses of large well-shaped flowers are white, with 
dark spots on the outer segments. prcECox {R. ciliatum x 
dauricum), one of the first to blossom in the open air, is of 
dwarf, compact habit, and very floriferous, the colour being a 
delicate shade of rose. As it flowers so early in the year — often 
about the middle of February during mild v/inters — it is in 
great demand for forcing. It is sub-evergreen. Wi/soni {R, 
ciliatum % glaucum) is intermediate in character between its 
parents. The flowers are pale pink, with a rosy-pink exterior. 
kewense (R. Griffithianum x Hookeri) (Fig 284), an exception- 
ally valuable addition to the garden, is quite hardy near 
London, beautiful in foliage, and dainty when in blossom. The 
flowers are large, white, with a faint suffusion of pink or rose, 
and produced very freely in loose trusses in May. noblea?ium 
{R. caucasicum x arboreum\ flowering very soon after R. prcBcox, 
is therefore useful for a similar purpose ; and Cunningham's 
White {R. 7Jiaximum x R. concessum) is another first-rate sort, 
the flower-trusses being large, well-formed, white, with dark spots. 

Rhododendrons are readily increased by seeds (in the case 
of species), cuttings, layers, and grafting. For the seeds, which 
should be sown soon after they are gathered, a peaty, well-drained 

2 G 



45© THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

soil is advisable, and shallow pans or boxes are preferable to 
deeper ones, and these should be placed in a warm greenhouse to 
assist vegetation. Such sorts as R. ponticmn, R. viaximimi^ &c., 
germinate readily if sown in frames in the open ground. The 
seed being very fine, care should be taken not to cover it too 
deeply, and a fine-rosed water-pot should be used for watering. 
When large enough, the seedlings should be pricked off into 
iboxes, &c., and in due time transferred to nursery rows in the 
outdoor garden. Cuttings of the current season's well-ripened 
:-shoots emit roots if taken off in August and September, dibbled 
in light soil, and made quite firm at the base Thev should be 
placed in a warm, moist, close case and shaded from the sun. 

Layering is an excellent method, but not always convenient. 
Autumn is the best time for this purpose, and if treated in 

exactly the same 
way as the Rose, 
and the soil kept 
damp, roots will 
be emitted freely. 

Grafting is the 
method by which 
the hybrids are 
largely increased, 
and saddle graft- 
ing is the best 
although not the 
easiest system, but 
whip, or tongue, 
grafting is prac- 
tised with much 
success. This 
operation is best 
conducted between autumn and March. The scions should be 
about the same thickness as the stocks, but never thicker, and 
when securely tied and a little mastic placed over the tying 
material, remove to a close case, where a temperature is main- 
tained of from 6odeg. to yodeg., and shaded from the sun. After 
a little growth has been made, a chink of air should be admitted, 
and, later on, the plants hardened off, and a neat stake placed 
against each one to prevent it from being knocked off. The 
following season the plants will be fit for planting outside. The 
stocks most in demand for grafting are R. ponticui7i and 
R. catawbiense^ but any thoroughly hardy sort answers well. Some 
operators take the stocks (which should be healthy two-year-old 
seedlings) out of nursery rows at grafting-time and, after they are 
worked, lay them in boxes of soil in heat ; but the best results 
are obtained when they have been previously established in pots. 
Stocks for autumn working should be potted up in spring. 




Fig. 284. — Rhododendron kewense. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



Rosmarinus officinalis (Fragrant Rosemary) is very familiar, 
and whien planted in very moist soil and a sunny aspect produces 
an abundance of small soft blue flowers. It also grows freely 
and flowers well on dry banks. The varieties with yellow- and 
silver-striped leaves are less ornamental than the type. 

Ruscus (Butcher's Brooms). — These are useful shrubs for 
undergrowth. They succeed in ordinary soil, and R. acnleatiis 
forms quite a carpet of deep green leafage. It is referred to 
under " Berry-Bearing Trees and Shrubs." R. hypoglossiwi is of 
taller and more slender habit than the first-named. The small 
soft yellow flowers are produced in the centre of the deep glossy 
green leaves in April and May, and succeeded by richly coloured 
berries. In the case of R. Hypo- 
phyllu7n (yR. microglossus) the 
small flowers are borne on the 
under-sides of the leaves. R. 
racemosus (Alexandrian Laurel), 
now recognised as Dancea race- 
mosa, is quite distinct from 
either of the foregoing. It is 
of elegant habit, and not so 
dense in growth as R. aculeatus 
(Fig. 285). Its oblong, polished 
green leaves are sharply pointed, 
and the yellowish-green flowers 
are produced at the tips of the 
growths. 

Skimmias. — See page 457. 

Tamarix. — The members of 
this genus, especially T. gallica, 
should be largely grown, as 
they are of extreme elegance, 
easy culture, and quite hardy. 
They succeed admirably on 
sandy banks, and by the sea- 
coast grow luxuriantly. T. gailica, the most familiar kind, grows 
about 12ft. high, and its slender, drooping branches, clothed 
with narrow rich green leaves, are very beautiful, and in August 
bears a profusion of rose-pink flowers in slender spikes. 
T. germanica {Myricaria germa7iica\ T. hispada, T. parviflora, 
T. tetrajidra purpurea^ and T. libanotica^ are also of graceful 
habit. 

Trachycarpus excelsus {T. Fortu7iei^ Chajncerops excelsa 
C. Fortu?iei) is the only Palm suitable for outdoor culture. It 
is very handsome, with large fan-shaped leaves of a refreshing 
shade of green. It should be planted in rich well-drained soil, 
and a position sheltered from cold winds is advisable for this 

2 G 2 




452 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Japanese Palm. It imparts quite a tropical aspect to the garden, 
and is noble on the lawn. 

Ulex (Furze, or Gorse). — For planting in masses in pleasure- 
grounds and embellishing dry, gravelly banks and similar places, 
Ulex europceus, an attractive free-flowering native shrub, is well 
adapted. Its rich yellow flowers appear in spring and last long in 
condition. When left to itself it is apt to get leggy, but if cut 
down breaks away freely from the bottom. The double-flowered 
form i^fiore-phfio) is a decided improvement on the type. It is 
quite as hardy, more compact in habit, and seems always in 
flower, and, for general planting, is to be preferred to the first- 
named ; in fact, it is the showiest member of the genus. 
U. e. strictiis (Irish Furze) is of erect, slender growth, and bears 
small deep yellow flowers. U. nanus should be included because 
of its neat dwarf habit and lateness in blossoming. It begins to 
flower about midsummer, and continues until the end of 
November, thus prolonging the flowering time for several months. 
As Gorse are only sparsely provided with roots they are by no 
means easy to transplant, for which reason they should be 
planted in their permanent positions in a young state. They 
are readily increased by seed, but the double-flowered variety 
should be propagated by cuttings, which may be taken off in 
August with a heel of the old wood attached, and dibbled in 
light soil on a north border and covered with hand-lights. They 
should be watered overhead occasionally and shaded from the 
sun. When rooted, they should be potted off singly and grown 
on in pots until ready for planting out in their flowering 
quarters. 

Vaccinium Vitis-Id^a (Mount Ida Whortleberry) is a fairly 
well-known plant, indigenous to the British Isles and the Northern 
parts of Europe. It forms a neat carpet, dense in growth, and 
rarely exceeds loin. in height, with small, deep glossy green, 
Box-like leaves, and in April and May bears drooping, terminal 
racemes of pale pink bell-shaped flowers. It is very effective in 
September, when laden with bright red berries, which are often 
employed for culinary purposes, and much relished by some people. 
V. V.-I. major is distinct, ornamental, and of taller growth than 
the type. V. crassifoliian ( V. carnosuni), the thick-leaved Whortle- 
berry introduced from North Carolina upwards of loo years 
ago, is of trailing habit, and bears axillary clusters of small bell- 
shaped flowers profusely in June. V. Myrsi?iites ( V. nitidum 
decumbens), another dwarf-growing sort, deserves mention, as it 
produces its pale rose-coloured flowers in axillary clusters with 
much freedom. V. ovatum ( V. prunifolium) forms an erect, 
much-branched shrub, 3ft. to 5ft. high, with small deep green 
Pernettya-like leaves, and bears terminal and axillary racemes 
of flesh-coloured pendulous flowers in May and June. It is a 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



453 



North American species, and was introduced upwards of seventy 
years ago. 

Veronica. — This is an extensive genus, consisting of about 
1 60 species, the headquarters of which is New Zealand. 
Unfortunately they are not thoroughly hardy throughout the British 
Isles, although in the warmer parts they flourish out of doors. 
They are not particular as regards soil, so long as it is well- 
drained, a water-logged condition being the least satisfactory. 
They are neat-growing shrubs, and succeed well near the sea, 
and some of them, like V. cupressoides, are well adapted for the 
rock garden. Those here mentioned are some of the best sorts 
for general planting. V. Traversii is not only the best known, 
but it is also one of the most distinct, hardy, and beautiful of 
New Zealand Veronicas. It grows about 4ft. high, and its erect 
stems are clothed with deep green narrow leaves arranged in 
opposite pairs, and its spikes of light or mauve flowers are pro- 
duced in August. It is useful for winter bedding, and on account 
of its neat habit is well adapted for window-boxes, buxifolia is a 
very neat-growing kind of slender habit, with distinct rich green 
Box-like leaves. Andersoni variegata is a pretty silver variegated 
dwarf-habited shrub, better adapted for growing in pots for 
conservatory decoration than for planting in the open air, unless 
as an edging to beds, or similar positions, for summer effect. 
speciosa is a compact, vigorous grower, with large glossy green 
leaves, and produces very freely large racemes of purple flowers. 
chathamica is a low-spreading bush, with dark purple flowers, and 
deserving of a place in the rock garden. LyaUii is worthy of 
note ; it is slender in growth, and its racemes of lilac-coloured 
flowers are borne with great freedom, ligustrifolia is another 
pretty sort, and bears an abundance of white flowers, pinguifolia^ 
a dwarf compact-habited kind, is very hardy, with small 
glaucous-grey leaves ; it is of free, bushy growth, and useful as 
an edging to beds, glauco-ccerulea forms a pretty, much-branched 
bush of dwarf habit, conspicuous for its dark stems and 
glaucous leaves. amplexicaulis is an abundant blossomer ; the 
smooth leaves are glaucous-grey, and the flowers white, salicifolia, 
with its long narrow leaves and long racemes of white flowers, are 
both distinct and handsome. Blue Gem is of good habit and free 
growth ; its dense spikes of deep blue flowers are effective. Purple 
Queen is a cross between V. Andersoni and V. Traversii, and flowers 
freely ; its habit is dwarf and bushy, and the Box-like leaves are 
glossy green. The purplish-violet flowers are borne on stout spikes 
in September. La Seduisante is another excellent variety, with 
large spikes of deep purple flowers ; its bronze-green leaves 
are very beautiful, too. White Star is a dwarf, compact, free- 
growing, and floriferous variety, with thick, ovate, pale green 
leaves, broadly margined with creamy-yellow. A warm soil and 
sunny spot are necessary to get the true leaf colour. 



454 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ciipressoides bears great resemblance to some of the dwart 
Conifers, and is suitable for the rock garden ; it is of low 
growth, ciipressoides variabilis is of dwarfer habit than the last- 
named, and forms a dense spreading tuft, and is pleasing in 
the rock garden. lycopodioides, another bushy, spreading kind, 
is conspicuous for its slender whipcord-like growths and small 
dark green leaves. Loganioides, also of dwarf habit, introduced 
from New Zealand about ten years ago, is well adapted for 
the rockery; and V. Hectori, a much-branched shrub of dwarf, 
erect habit, is worthy of notice too. 

Viburnum Tinus (Laurustinus) (Fig. 286) is a valuable shrub, 

flowering from mid-winter until April out of doors. It is also useful 

for growing in pots for the conservatory, as its flowers under glass 

lose the pink shade and come 

pure white. It is perfectly hardy, 

attractive even when out of 

flower, and succeeds in ordinary 

soil. Of this there are several 

varieties, the following being the 

most distinct : purpurea is the 

darkest-leaved Laurustinus, free 

in growth, neat in habit, and 

very pretty. The leaves of varie- 

gatus are irregularly variegated 

with white, lucida is conspicuous 

for its large polished green leaves 

and handsome clusters of pure 

white flowers ; this is the best 

kind for forcing purposes. Froebeli 

is also useful for forcing ; its 

flowers are larger and of a purer 

white than those of the type. 

-byramidalis and rotundifolia are 

also pleasing. 
Fig. 286. — Viburnum Tinus. 

ViNCA. — The hardy members 
of this genus are low-growing shrubs, serviceable for planting on 
rockeries, dry banks, or rambling over old tree-stumps, and as 
they succeed in poor soils and under the drip of tall trees, their 
value is considerably enhanced. V. major (large Periwinkle), a 
European plant with broad, glossy green leaves, bears an abundance 
of showy deep blue flowers in May ; it spreads rapidly, and is 
useful for planting by the side of woodland walks. V. m. elegan- 
tissima is characterised by its broad handsome leaves variegated 
with cream-white ; the variegation is constant. V. ininor (small 
Periwinkle) is a small green-leaved kind, less vigorous in growth, 
and not so ornamental as those already referred to. Of the last- 
named there are several attractive varieties, the principal of which 




ON TREES AND SHRUBS, 



455 



are : vioiacea, with deep violet-coloured flowers ; those of flore-albo 
are white ; azurea^ deep blue ; the leaves of foliis-argenteis are 
beautifully striped and mottled with silver ; while those of foliis- 
aureis are marked with yellow. The Vincas are readily propagated 
by division and by cuttings. 

Yucca. — This is a very orna- 
mental group of Liiiace(E, com- 
prising about a score of species, 
tender and hardy, but not more 
than nine or ten can be con- 
sidered suitable for culture 
out of doors in this latitude. 
Yuccas are amongst the most 
graceful of all hardy plants, 
and delight in a fairly rich, 
moist, and well-drained soil. 
Those here mentioned are 
perfectly hardy, and produce 
charming effects planted either 
singly or in groups on the lawn. 
They are also well adapted for 
planting on or near the rockery, 
on sloping mounds, and look 
well in the centre of beds, 
with dwarf shrubs or suitable 
bedding plants grouped round 
them. Tliey have few equals for 
winter bedding, 
and for filling 
vases for decora- 
tion during winter. 
Y. recurvi- 
folia (Fig. 
287) can be 
well recom- 
mended. Y. 
gloriosa 
(Adam's 
Needle) 
is a well- 
known species, 
having been intro- 
duced from North 
America upwards 
of 300 years ago. 

It is of a vigorous growth, with flat and sharply-pointed leaves, 
and on warm soils throws up its great flower-spikes in July and 
August. The pendent bell-shaped flowers are white, tinged with 




Fig. 287. — Yucca recurvifolia. 



456 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



purple 
to the 
deeper 



on the exterior. V. 
type, but differs in 
green. Y. g. Ellacojnbei 



acuminata bears some resemblance 
its leaves being narrower and of a 
is another beautiful variety, free 
in growth, with broad leaves. 
Y. g. superba is distinct from 
the foregoing, on account of its 
dwarfer habit, and flowering in 
quite a small state; the greenish- 
white flowers are borne in branch- 
ing panicles. Y. g. variegata is 
a pretty variegated form and quite 
constant. Y, glauca, a stemless 
species, deserves a sheltered 
nook ; its leaves are broad and 
glaucous green. Y. filameritosa 
(Silk Grass), a beautiful North 
American species, has been culti- 
vated in this country since 1675. 
It is almost stemless, and along 
the edges of the arching leaves 
are numerous thread - like fila- 
ments, which give the plant a 
characteristic appearance. The 
spikes carry an abundance 
of pure white flowers. Y. f. 
flaccida^ also nearly stemless, is a 
distinct variety, with leaves nearly 
2oin. long, with short thread- 
like appendages along 
the leaf-margins. 
laucescejis is a 
laucous - leaved 

Y. f. variegata is 
a lovely variety, 
with cream-white 
variegation. Al- 
though it suc- 
ceeds out of 
doors, it grows 
more freely, and 
the leaf colour is 
more beautiful 
when grown 
under glass. 
Y. angustifolia 

(Fig. 288) is a dwarf sort, with long, narrow, recurving leaves, 
supplied with narrow threads. All points considered, Y. re- 
ciirvifolia ( Y. pendula, Y 7'ec2irva), a native of the Southern 




K/. 

lovely 
form. 



Fig. 288. — Yucca angustifolia. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



457 



United States, is the most elegant of all the hardy Yuccas, and, 
if only one kind be grown, this is the one that should be 
selected. It is thoroughly hardy, and its long, flat, glossy 
green leaves droop gracefully, whilst its handsome flower-spikes 
are borne on medium-sized plants. 

Yuccas may be increased by root-cuttings. Cut the thick 
fleshy roots into pieces, plant in sandy soil, and place in 
gentle heat. The soil must be kept moist, but not too 
wet, or the roots will rot. When the young plants have made a 
few leaves, they should be potted into small pots, later on 
removed to cooler quarters, and when large enough planted 
outside. The caulescent kinds may be propagated by division 
of the stems, each piece having an eye, and treated as recom- 
mended above. Seed rarely comes to perfection in this country, 
but if imported seed is sown in light soil in boxes or pans, and 
stood in a genial heat, it will germinate freely. 

Berry = Bearing Trees and Shrubs. 

The trees and shrubs that can be brought under this 
heading are numerous, but it is proposed to only mention 
those specially valuable for eff"ect. It is difficult to determine 
why the cultivation of berry-bearing subjects is so much 
neglected in gardens and parks, as they are ornamental and 
inexpensive, and do not require special culture. Not only are 
they prized for their berries in autumn and winter, but some 
are attractive in spring, when their branches are wreathed in 
flowers of rich and varied colours, thus revealing two seasons 
■of beauty. It is, however, in the autumn, when the majority 
of the other occupants of the shrubbery have lost their beauty, 
that the berry-bearing shrubs arrest attention. There is consider- 
able variety, too, in both the size and the form of the berries, 
and the colours comprise light yellow and deep orange, white, 
brown, black, purple, many shades of pink and rose through 
reds to deep crimson. 

In addition to the qualities above mentioned, some of the 
berry-bearers are attractive by reason of their handsome ever- 
green foliage, which gives them additional beauty. 

Evergreen. — In this section the following are reliable : The 
Skimmias are useful plants of compact growth, with thick 
deep green leaves. They are perfectly hardy, easily accom- 
modated, and very beautiful in spring, when bearing terminal 
panicles of deliciously-scented white flowers. They are grand 
pot shrubs, and well suited for planting out in beds in cool 
glass structures. The best three sorts are S. J^oremani, 



458 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



S. Fortunei^ and S. japojiica (Fig. 289). The bright red berries 
last in good condition through the winter, in fact those of 
S. Foremani will remain bright for two years if birds do not 
trouble them. Berberis Aquifolium {Mahonia Aquifolia) is an 
accommodating shrub, and forms a good undergrowth. In winter 
its rich green foliage assumes a purplish-bronze hue. Its clusters 
of blue-black berries are freely produced. Berberis Wallichiana 
is an attractive and uncommon Barberry. The long, violet- 
purple coloured berries are quite distinct from all its congeners. 
The varieties of Pernettya mucronata, or Prickly Heaths, are 
charming, and where dwarf evergreens are valued they should 
find a home. They grow best in a well-drained, moist, peaty 



bens (Partridge Berry) is one of the best carpet or dwarf- 
growing evergreens, and is admirably suited for the front 
lines of low-growing shrubs. Its small white bell-shaped 
flowers are borne in July, and are succeeded in autumn by 
bright red berries, at which time its foliage is shaded with 
chocolate-brown. In order to ensure regular crops of berries, 
the plants should be lifted and divided about every third or 
fourth year. Hyme?ianthera crassifolia is a beautiful New 
Zealand shrub, deserving of a sheltered spot in the garden. It 
grows to a height of about 4ft., and its pure white berries are 




Fig. 289. — Skimmia japonica. 



soil, and in a sunny 
position, as a greater 
show of berries results 
than when planted in 
the shade. Pernettyas 
may also be advan- 
tageously grown in pots 
for the decoration 01 
rooms and conserva- 
tories in winter and 
early spring. The 
following are amongst 
the best varieties : 
carnea lilacina^ soft 
pinkish-lilac ; coccinea, 
light scarlet, large and 
handsome ; alba, white, 
shaded with blush ; 
nigra maior, nearly 
black ; atro-rosea, rich 
rose ; i7iacrocarpa, deep 
crimson, very large ; 
and rosea purpurea, 
rose, touched with 
purple. 



Gaultheria procuni- 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 459 

seen to advantage against the small deep green leaves. Ancuba 
Japonica is so well known that description is unnecessary. As 
it is dioecious, care should be taken to have a few^ male plants 
intermingled with, or adjacent to, the female kind, so that the 
flowers of the latter may become fertilised. The Fire Thorn 
{^Cratcegus Pyracanthd) is a grand subject for training against a 
wall. Its dense clusters of scarlet-coloured fruits are borne 
unstintingly, whether situated in a south or a north-east aspect. 
There is a yellow-berried variety named C. P. crenulata^ which 
creates an agreeable change in the shrubbery. 

Azara microphylla (Fig. 290) is a handsome and quite hardy 
shrub. The arching shoots 
or branches are well clothed 
with small deep green glossy 
leaves, and although the small 
flowers are not showy they 
are very fragrant. In favour- 
able situations it bears freely 
its orange-coloured berries. 
The Hollies (Ilex) take pre- 
cedence over all other ever- 
green berry-bearing shrubs or 
trees. They are of elegant 
habit, hardy, and free in 
growth. With the exception 
of wet or boggy soils there 
is scarcely a soil or position 
in which they will not thrive. 
They may be grown either 
as pyramids (bushes) or 
standards. Taste and position 
must decide which form of 
growth should be selected. 
The foflowing are good berry- 
bearing sorts. Green-leaved 
varieties : balearica^ lanri- 
folia^ camellicEfoUa^ Shepherdi^ 
Hodginsi, platyphylla scotica, 
fructii-luteo (yellow-berried). 
ciliatum, and opaca. Varie- 290.-AZARA microphylla. 

gated sorts : Silver Milk- 
maid (Fig. 291), aurea marginata, a. pumila, hicida, argentea 
margifiata, pendula tricolor^ and argentea pendula. The varieties 
of Hedera arborea are beautiful in winter, and well deserving of 
a word. They produce pretty effects on the fringe of the lawn 
treated either as single specimens or planted in groups. If the 
last-named method be adopted Galtonia candica?is, Lilies, and 
such-like bulbs may be planted between them with excellent 




460 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



effect, as the Ivies form a nice background for the bulbous 
subjects. They are also suited for planting in various places 
in the rock garden, and few shrubs are better adapted for 
winter bedding than Tree Ivies. Another use to which they 
might with advantage be put is as pot shrubs for placing in 
vestibules, rooms, &c., during winter when in berry. H. arborea^ 
H. a. elegafitissima, and H. a. frudu-hiteo are the best. 

The Cotoneasters form an important group of hardy berry- 
bearers. As trees and shrubs valued for their flowers, the 
Cotoneasters merit a place in select collections, and as they 
are perfectly hardy and of such simple cultural requirements, it 
seems strange that they have not been more extensively employed 
in gardens. The best known member of the evergreen section 
is undoubtedly C. inicrophylla^ a low spreading bush, with small 
deep green leaves ; it is very beautiful when laden with bright red 



Fig. 291.— Holly Silver Milkmaid. which are in due time 

succeeded by richly-coloured 
berries. C. thyviifona^ a neat, dwarf-growing, Himalayan species, 
deserves a place in the rock garden. It is slow in growth, 
and its numerous short branches are supplied with narrow dark 
green leaves. It bears an abundance of pinkish-white blossoms 
and attractive berries. C. rotimdifolia is a distinct and charming 
species rarely exceeding 5ft. in height. The brightly-coloured 
berries are borne wath exceptional freedom, and often remain 
on the bushes until February and March. 

The Strawberry Tree {Arbutus Unedd) is highly appreciated on 
account of its white bell-shaped flowers and red strawberry-like 
fruits appearing simultaneously. It must, however, to succeed 
well be planted in a sheltered spot. The Laurel-leaved Phillyrea 
decora {F. Vilmoriniaiid) is a fine shrub of dwarf spreading 
habit. It is hardy, with thick deep green leaves and round 
black berries, which latter are preceded in spring by white 
Hawthorn-scented flowers. This is a very useful shrub for 




berries in winter. Its pale 
pink flowers are showy, too. 
C. in. glacialis (C. co?igestd) 
is well adapted for the rock 
garden. It is dwarfer in 
habit than the last-named, 
with paler green leaves, and 
flowers more deeply stained 
with pink. A very attractive 
neat shrub. C. buxifolia is 
vigorous and valuable for 
shelter. Its long branches 
are clothed with deep green 
Box-like leaves, and in spring 
bears clusters of white flowers, 



1 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



461 



forcing, though rarely used for this purpose. Gardeners are 
advised to note its freedom in blossom in the early spring. 
The Butcher's Broom {Riisciis aculeatus) is a dwarf-growing shrub,, 
with small deep glossy green leaves ; in the early part of the 
winter it carries an abundance of bright red berries. Rhaphiolepis 
iaponica {R. ovatd) is a shrub of medium growth, with ovate 
deep green leaves and white fragrant strawberry-like flowers ; in 
the winter months its round black berries, which are carried 
at the apex of the growths, are most attractive. It is a useful 
shrub for forcing. 

Deciduous. — This is a delightful class and cannot be 
dispensed with. The Thorns {CratcEgus) are familiar to all who 
care for flowering shrubs, and their value cannot be over- 
estimated. They are of easy culture, charming when in flower^ 
and showy in autumn, when the leafless branches are heavily- 
laden with richly - coloured fruits. They are of reasonable 
price. The Cockspur Thorn (C. Crus-galli), C. Crus-galli 
ovalifolia and C. prunifolia^ are all very handsome. The brightly- 
coloured berries are borne in large clusters with much freedom^ 
and remain on the trees until mid-winter. Apart from their 
berries they deserve wider recognition on account of the rich 
shades of crimson which the foliage assumes in autumn. 
C. tanacetifolia (Tansy-leaved) is a robust-growing species, which 
bears a profusion of yellowish-green fruits. C. Azarolus bears 
heavy crops of orange-red berries, which are both distinct and 
effective. C. Arofiia (Aronia Thorn) grows freely in sandy soil, 
and in autumn is very showy when laden with large yellow fruits. 
C. coccinea, a free-growing North American species, carries a 
wealth of bright red berries. C. Carrieri is one of the most 
ornamental of the Thorns, and a thoroughly vigorous grower. Its 
large orange-red fruits remain on the tree longer than is the 
case with most Thorns. C. parvifolia is a charming small tree^ 
with greenish-yellow berries. C. heterophylla holds its deep red 
berries until February. C. Douglasi, C. pin?iatifida, C. mexicanay 
C. punctata, and C. sangiiijiea are also good. 

The Barberries comprise several delightful shrubs. Berberis 
sinensis thrives well in poor soils, and bears great quantities of 
richly-coloured berries, which hang on the bushes for a long 
time. B. aristata is an attractive winter shrub, with brownish- 
red bark ; its red berries are borne freely. B. vulgaris asperma 
is very showy in autumn, as its richly-coloured berries are borne 
in great profusion. B. v. foliis-purpureus is, apart from its 
pleasing purple foliage, very attractive by reason of its abundant 
crops of berries in autumn. B. ca?iadensis, B. macrocarpa, 
B. virescens, and B. lycium should be included in a list of 
select berry-bearing shrubs. The Spindle Trees (yEuonymus) 
are conspicuous towards the close of the year when their 
brilliant-coloured capsules are hanging on the wiry twigs. The 



462 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING, 



broad-leaved variety {E. latifolius) is more valuable than the 
European species {E. europcBus\ as the foliage is larger and of a 
richer green, which becomes suffused with purplish-red in the 
autumn, the seeds bolder, and the capsules are more highly- 
coloured. E. e. atropurpureus is easily recognised by its purple 
foliage, and produces an abundance of capsules and seeds. 
Another variety, E. e. aucubcefolius^ is distinct from its congeners 
on account of its leaves being blotched with yellow in much 
the same way as those of Aucuba iaponica. E. verrucosus and 
E. Hamiltonianus are capital free-growing sorts. 

The Snowberry {Symphoricarpus racemosus) must of course 
be included. Its pure white berries are borne in clusters at 
the points of the growths, which in mild winters remain 
on the plants until well on in the New Year ; it needs, 
however, to be kept within bounds, S. Heyeri is of dwarf 
habit, and its snow-white berries are smaller in size than those 
of the Common Snowberry. Cotofieaster frigida is of good growth, 
and its large clusters of red berries are borne freely. It is 
■sub-evergreen in mild winters. C. bacillaris and C. b. flori- 
bunda are equally beautiful. Another first-rate sort of dwarfer 
habit is C. affinis. C. Simonsi holds a high place amongst 
shrubs valued for their berries. It is of free, erect growth, often 
reaching 8ft. high, and carries great crops of bright red berries 
every season. C. Nummularia is a much branched small tree 
of elegant habit. Its white flowers are succeeded by round, 
almost black berries. One of the loveliest of low-growing 
kinds is C. horizontalis, which should not be omitted, as 
it is a fine plant for the rockery, but needs plenty of 
room, as it is of free growth. Its branches are horizontal, and 
brightened with small deep green leaves, which turn to a reddish- 
brown in autumn. The Guelder Rose ( Viburnum Opulus) is very 
ornamental, either when grown in the shrubbery or when planted 
in hedgerows, as is well illustrated in Sussex. The leaves die 
off a rich crimson shade, and the red berries are produced in 
abundance in autumn, V. cassinoides is a profuse berry-bearer. 
It forms a compact bush, with thick, ovate, lanceolate leaves, and 
its rose-coloured berries are very attractive. V. lantanoides 
succeeds best in moist soil. Its dark berries are, unfortunately, 
only sparsely produced. Its leaves are very showy in autumn. 
V. dentatum grows about 8ft. high, and is beautiful in flower and 
fruit. Its bright blue berries are borne towards the close of 
summer. 

The Scarlet-berried Elder {Sambucus racemosus^ luxuriates in a 
cool, moist soil. Its richly-coloured berries are profusely borne. 
ElcBagnus longipes is a charming shrub, of good habit, and succeeds 
well in sandy soils. Its oblong red fruits are speckled with small 
white dots. E. aiiojistifolia assumes the proportions of a small tree 
about 20ft. in height, with narrow pale green leaves, silvery-white 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



on the under-sides. The pale yellow flowers are very fragrant, 
and borne in the leaf-axils. The silvered fruits are attractive. 
E. argentea (Silver Berry) is another species of great decorative 
value. It does not grow so large as the last-named, but its 
silvery leaves, yellowish sweet-scented flowers, and globular fruits, 
are distinct and pretty. 
E. hortensis (Fig. 292) is 
free in growth and handsome 
in fruit. It succeeds admir 
ably in dry soils. The Sea 
Buckthorn {Hippophce rham- 
noides) is one of the most 
beautiful of berry - bearers. 
Like the Elaeagnus, it grows 
freely in dry soil. Its orange- 
coloured berries are retained 
throughout the winter, and 
no shrub is more effective 
than this when allowed free 
growth on the margin of 
lake or pond-side. 

Daphne mezereum and 
its varieties should not 
be forgotten, the red- 
and orange - coloured 
berries being very attrac- 
tive. Pyrus Aria (White 
Beam) shouldbeplanted 
in exposed situations. 
The fruits are large and 
of a bright scarlet colour. 
P. A. lutescens is a grand 
variety, with glaucous 
leaves, and in late 
summer creates a pretty 
picture when laden with 
its large clusters of 
berries. P. A. undu- 
lata is another beautiful 
and easily-grown sort, 
with glaucous leaves. 
P. intermedia is vigor- 
ous, and very handsome in autumn when bearing its immense 
clusters of berries. P. lanata, also vigorous in growth, has large 
leaves and bears great crops of showy fruit. P. pinnatifida is a 
beautiful tree, of erect, close habit, with deeply-cut leaves. It is an 
exceptionally free berry-bearer. Pyrus Aucuparia (the Mountain 
Ash) is another excellent kind. Its white flowers are borne in 




Fig. 292. — El^agnus hortensis. 



464 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



May, and succeeded in autumn by clusters of scarlet berries. 
P. A. frudu-hiteo is an abundant berry-bearer. Its berries are 
yellow. These Mountain Ashes are good town trees. P. Sorbiis 
afnericana (American Mountain Ash) is a handsome species for 
park decoration. It bears immense clusters of richly-coloured 
berries. It is free in growth, with bright green leaves set on red 
petioles. P. S. malviformis deserves mention on account or 
the rich profusion of berries borne in autumn. 

There are a few climbers conspicuous for their berries. For 
covering trellises, arbours, &:c., Celastrus articidatus is well adapted. 
It bears a rich display of red berries along its leafless shoots in 
winter. A place against a warm, sunny wall should be found for 
Vitis heterophylla humulifolia. In colour it stands alone, being of 
a rich peacock-blue. The European Box Thorn {Lycimn europceu7?i) 
is a rapid climber of the simplest culture, and in free, open soil it 
will make shoots loft. to 12ft. in length in one season. Though 
not large the berries are pleasing in colour. The single Roses must 
be included, though not always regarded as shrubs Xo flowers 
are freer or more brilliant in colour. They wreath pillar and wall 
with magnificent colour in summer, and give beauty to the autumn 
months when the heps, or hips, ripen. The Japanese Rose {R. 
I'-ugosd) and its white-flowered form should be extensively planted. 
Both kinds grow freely, flower abundantly, and carry a profusion 
of large, roundish, rich red fruits in autumn. R. macrophylla is 
very decorative. Its pink flowers are succeeded by long red berries. 
R. iiutkana forms a thicklv-set bush and o"rows to a height of 
about 8ft. The clear red berries of R. to??ie?ifosa siibglobosa are 
also attractive. R. cinnamo??iea. R. lucida, R. zv7/osa, R. pisocai-pa, 
R, caroliniana^ and R. Kamschatiana are likewise beautiful kinds, 
and bear abundantly brightly-coloured fruits. Of dwarf-growing 
varieties the Scotch Rose {R. spinosissima) is very charming. It 
flowers with delightful freedom, and the blossoms give place to 
showy berries, which when ripe are quite black in colour. 

Wall Shrubs and Climbers. 

AValls are of great assistance to the gardener. Besides 
affording protection from cold winds, &:c., they enable him to 
grow many beautiful shrubs in the open air that otherwise 
would require glass protection. The following is a selection of 
suitable shrubs for walls : 

Deciduous. — Pyjnis {Cydom'a) japonica and its numerous 
varieties are beautiful spring-flowering shrubs of easy culture. 
The flowers comprise shades of pink, rose, red, crimson, &c. 
The type is one of the most delightful, flowering with such 
freedom as to completely cover its long branches with bright 
red flowers. P. j. nivalis bears delicate white blossoms about 




WISTARIA SIX EX SIS AT HOILAXD HOUSE, KEXSIXGTOX, W. 

The Residence of the Earl of Ilchester. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



465 



a week or so later than the common kind. ' Another free variety 
is the deep red cardinalis. P. Maulei (Fig. 293) is less vigorous 
in growth than the other kinds, but delightful when its orange- 
coloured flowers smother the shoots in April. P, japojiica atro- 
purpurea^ P. j. Moorloozii, and P. j. flore-pleiio are also conspicuous 
for their showy flowers. The double-flowered Kerria {K. japonica 
Hore-pleno) is a favourite wall-shrub ; and rightly so, for its orange- 
yellow rosette-like flowers are highly effective. No soil, however 
poor, comes amiss to this shrub, which is also known under 
the name of Corchorus japonicus fl.pl. Pmiica granatimi 
(Pomegranate) forms a suitable wall-shrub, but in the Southern 
parts of England does not need such protection. It grows freely 
even in poor soils, and 
its bright scarlet flowers 
are borne with great free- 
dom. P. g. rubra fi.-pl. 
is a pretty shrub, similar 
in habit to the type, 
with well-formed double 
red flowers. 

Given plenty of head- 
room, a lairly rich soil, 
and a sunny 
position, Wis- 
taria chitiejisis 
( W. sinensis) 
grows freely 
and flowers 
abundan 1 1 y. 
Its purplish- 
lilac flowers 
are borne in 
drooping ra- 
cemes during 
May and June. 
W. multijuga 
is a Japanese 
to its shy 




Fig. 293. — Pyrus Maulei. 



owing 



species, but not much known, doubtless 
blossoming character in a young state. It 
should always be planted in positions favourable to the develop- 
ment of its long racemes of pale purple flowers. W. frutescens 
produces freely short erect racemes of pale blue fragrant flowers. 

There is no class of climbing plants more beautiful, 
from a foliage point of view, than the different forms of Vitis 
under which are now included Ampelopsis. The rich and 
varied shades of colour assumed by the decaying foliage in 
autumn is exceedingly handsome. The uses to which 



this section of plants may be put are numerous. Besides 
clothing walls, they are grand subjects for rambling over 

2 H 



466 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



porches, arbours, and such-like places. No particular soil is 
necessary. 

The Virginian Creepers {Ampelopsis) are perhaps the most 
easily grown of all hardy climbing plants, and in autumn most 
effective, the foliage turning to brilliant colours. Veitch's Vir- 
ginian Creeper {A. Veitchii) is well known ; when established, it 
attaches itself to the driest walls. A. hederacea is of rapid 
growth, and when trained up the trunks of old trees, and 
allowed to ramble amongst sparsely-leaved branches, is very 
ornamental. In autumn its deeply-lobed leaves assume many 
shades of brown, chocolate, and crimson. A. miwalis is a self- 
clinging climber of quick growth. The foliage of this kind is 
even more brilliant than that of A. hederacea. 

Vitis Coig?ieticB is perfectly hardy and of easy culture. 
. — /-""^ Towards the close of the 

^ vi A///^' I summer its handsome leaves 



Fig. 294.— Jasminum officinale affixe. very beautiful. Where vigor- 
ous ornamental vines are 
needed, this one should be noted. Actinidia Kolo??iikta is another 
vigorous climber, conspicuous for the rich colouring of its leaves 
in September. It is well adapted for covering arbours, trellises, 
Sic, and succeeds best in a light rich soil. Xaiithoce?'as sorbifoUa 
displays its terminal racemes of cream-white flowers streaked with 
blood red in the centre better against a wall than when planted 
in the open shrubbery border, unless the latter happen to be a 
favoured one. Its Sorbus-like leaves are pale green and very 
beautiful. 

The Winter Jasmine {J. nudifloruni) is a bright mid-winter 
flowering shrub, and if associated with a background of small- 
leaved evergreens its value is much enhanced, as its rich canary- 
yellow flowers are seen to greater advantage. J. n. aureum is a 
very ornamental sort with yellow leaves. The flowers are yellow. 




turn a rich crimson and 
claret. V. Tijiturier is too 
brilliant in its autumn 
colouring to pass over un- 
noticed. V. co7'difolia suc- 
ceeds better in a moist 
than in a dry soil. It is a 
vigorous and beautiful sort. 
K californica is another 
vigorous sort, with hand- 
some foliage which turns to 
crimson in autumn, V. 
Thunbergi is rather rare in 
this country. It is a very 
strong grower, with larger 
leaves than V. Coignetics, and 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



467 



The popular summer-flowering kind {J. officinale) has pure white 
fragrant flowers, which are borne freely. J. 0. affijte (Fig. 294) 
is a sturdy grower, with large flowers produced in terminal clusters, 
and may be considered an improvement on the type. The 
Italian Yellow Jasmine {/. hiimile) is a pretty summer-flowering 
kind, with deep golden-yellow flowers. Aristolochia Sipho (Fig. 
295) is a vigorous climber, and requires plenty of head-room; 
its large overlapping heart-shaped leaves are extremely orna- 
mental, w^hile its yellowish pipe-like flowers, streaked with purple, 
are curious. For hiding unsightly objects, covering old ruins, 
arches, &c., it is well adapted. Bignonia capreolata succeeds 
admirably on a warm wall, 
and if planted in rich soil 
with good drainage its 
reddish - yellow tubular- 
shaped flowers are borne 
liberally. Tecoma radicans 
grows freely and attaches 
itself to walls, &c., by 
means of its aerial roots. 
Its trumpet-shaped bright 
red flowers are produced 
in clusters at the apex of 
the summer shoots. T. 
{Bignonia) grandijiora is 
a very ornamental quick- 
growing climber. Its deep 
orange - red drooping 
flowers are larger than 
those of T. radicans^ 
and produced more freely. 
It delights in a rich soil. 

Periploca grcEca is a rapid 
climber, wath lanceolate 
deep glossy green leaves, 
and great clusters of ' 

purplish-brown flowers. It thrives in all soils, and is suitable 
for covering arbours, trellises, &c. 

The green and variegated Box Thorns {Lymim harbarum and 
Z. b. variegatinn) are slender ornamental climbers of free growth, 
succeeding well in sandy soil. Abelia triflora deserves a place 
on a wall, and should not be planted in the shrubbery unless 
the position be very favourable, as it is apt to get injured in 
severe winters. East winds are very harmful to it. It thrives 
in any well-drained soil. Plagia7ithus Lyalli, a rare and beautiful 
New Zealand shrub, deserves a place against a wall. It belongs 
to the Mallow family, and in early summer bears clusters of 
pure white flowers with rich yellow anthers. Ordinary soil suits 

2 H 2 




Fig. 295. — Aristolochia Sipho. 



468 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



it. The Moonseed {Menispermu??i canadeiise) has large hand- 
some leaves and small yellowish flowers, succeeded by black 
berries. It grows well in poor soils and bleak situations. 
M. dauricum is of quick growth and very ornamental. Cory- 
lopsis spicata produces its spikes of greenish-yellow fragrant 
flowers in advance of its hazel-like leaves, and on account of 
its hardiness and floriferousness it should be planted freely. 
Exochorda {SpircEa) grandifiora and its more beautiful congener 
E. Alberti, are useful free-flowering ornamental white-flowered 
shrubs. Both are quite hardy and of easy culture. 

Room should be found in every garden for a plant or two of 
Chi7no?ianthus rragrajis, as the fragrant flowers are very welcome 




Fig. 296. — Clematis Montana. 



during the winter. When planted in rich moist soil, and pruned 
at the proper time, it flowers with delightful freedom, and 
occasionally ripens seeds. Indigofera Gerardiafia is an orna- 
mental shrub, well suited for this mode of culture. ' Its neat 
soft green leaves and racemes of lovely pink pea-like flowers are 
borne in great abundance. It flowers freely in dry soil. /. G. alba 
is a lovely white counterpart of the type, and deserving of 
extended culture. 

Two early-flowering Honeysuckles {Lonicera fragrantissima and 
L. Standishii) produce small white and cream-white flowers in 
January and February; but what they lack in size is fully com- 
pensated for by their fragrance. Primus triloba is one of the 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



469 




I 



most charming of early spring shrubs. In the bud state 
its semi-double flowers are rose-pink, but when fully expanded 
they become suffused with pale pink. The flowers are borne so 
freely as to completely hide the long shoots. Fremontia californica 
has large cordate leaves, and produces its rich yellow flowers 
freely on short peduncles along the branches. If possible, it 
should be planted in sandy loam. Lippia {Aloysia) citriodora 
(Lemon-scented Verbena) should be represented in gardens 
where shrubs with fragrant leaves are cherished. It should have 
the advantage of a sunny position, 
and be supplied with water oc- 
casionally while growth is being 
made. 

Clematises are better adapted 
for rambling over old tree-stumps, 
verandahs, pergolas, trellises, and 
arches than for walls. Notwith- 
standing that they lose value 
when trained against walls, 
they are nevertheless effective. 
The varieties are grouped 
under the sections to which 
they belong, and the reader 
is referred to page 362 for 
remarks on pruning. 

C. montana (Fig. 296) is 
one of the most beautiful 
of white spring - flowering 
climbers, but wants a large 
space to develop. The varieties 
belonging to the Patens group 
are hardy in most situations, 
but should not be planted on 
an eastern wall. The following 
is a selection of the best 
varieties : Lady Alice Neville, 
Miss Bateman, Lord Derby, 
Miss Crawshay, Edith Jack- 
man, The Queen, Albert Victor, Lord Londesborough, Fair Rosa- 
mond, Mrs. Quilter, Sir Garnet Wolseley, and Lord H. Lennox. 

Although the members of the Florida section are hardy, 
they produce finer flowers when treated as pot-plants. The 
flowers are double or semi-double, and produced in the summer. 
Belle of Woking, Enchantress, J. G. Veitch, Venus Victrix, 
Duchess of Edinburgh, Lucie Lemoine, Elaine, Countess of 
Lovelace (Fig. 297), and Mrs. G. M. Innes are all effective. 

The varieties of the Jackmaiini group are very hardy and free- 
flowering. They commence to blossom in July, and continue 




Fig. 297. — Clematis Countess of 
Lovelace. 



470 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



until October. Star of India, Guiding Star, Alba, Jackmanni, 
Mrs. Barron Veillard, Tunbridgensis, Rubra Violacea, and Victoria 
are free in blossom. 

The flowers of the Viticella group are borne during summer. 
Mrs. James Bateman, Thomas Moore, Hendersoni, Earl of 
Beaconsfield, and Lady Bovill are very fine. 

The flowers of the Lanuginosa group are very large and 
delicately coloured. Fairy Queen, Grand Duchess, William 
Kennett, Blue Gem, Beauty of Worcester, Duchess of Teck, 
The Shah, and Lady Caroline Neville are also of great beauty ; 
Nivea and Pallida, however, are two of the finest of the group. 

Evergreen. — Escallonias are ornamental shrubs with showy 
flowers, the best known being E. macrantha, which has thick 
glossy green leaves and pink flowers. E. rubra, E. Ingrami, 
^. and E. sanguinea are de- 

serving of attention too. 
E. Langleyensis is a most 
valuable addition to the list 
of beautiful hardy free - 
flowering shrubs. It is a cross 
between E. PhiUppiana% and 
E. sanguinea $ . In foliage 
it resembles the female 
parent, while its rose-pink 
flowers are produced as 
freely as those of E, Philip- 
piana. Photinia serruiafa, a 
native of China and Japan, 
is conspicuous for its large, 
Laurel-like, deep glossy green 
leaves, which in spring are 
suffused with brownish-red. 
It is effective either in the 
open shrubbery or trained 
against a wall. Akebia quinata 
is a quick-twining shrub of 
elegant growth, with deep 
green leaves, and pale purple 
flowers, borne in short 
Fig. 298.-BERBERIDOPSIS coRALLiNA. j-acemes in March. Although 

not showy they are valued on 
account of the fragrance they emit. This shrub should not be 
planted on a cold, eastern aspect, as the biting winds cut the 
tender growths. 

Smilaxes are of hardy constitution, and may be used as wall- 
coverers, but are really better adapted for rambling over ruins, 
tree-stumps, &c. Any common soil suits them. S. asperma 
(Prickly Ivy) is fairly well known, but the variegated form is 




ON TREES AND SHRUBS 



471 



less common and decidedly ornamental. S. China (Chinese 
Smilax) was, when first received in this country, treated as a 
hothouse plant, but subsequently was found to be able to with- 
stand English winters out of doors. It is free in growth, with 
round stems, and nearly spineless. The roundish leaves are of a 
pleasing shade of green. S. rotu7tdifolia is another attractive 
free-growing sort. Ceanothuses are valuable, as the flowers of 
most of the members are of pleasing shades of blue, a colour 
by no means common amongst hardy shrubs. C. azureus is of 
neat growth and very free-flowering. Gloire de Versailles is of 
more spreading habit, with larger leaves and graceful racemes 
of pale blue flowers. 
Lucie Lemoine, papil- 
losus, divaricatus, and 
Veitchimiiis are showy, 
free-flowering shrubs, and 
desirable for walls with 
a south or south-west 
aspect. 

Cratcegus Pyracantha^ 
with its immense clus- 
ters of richly-coloured 
berries, is particularly attrac- 
tive in winter. It succeeds 
well in hungry soils and 
cold situations, where many 
shrubs fail to make headway. 

Berberidopsis corallina (Coral 
Berry) (Fig. 298) merits a 
place on a sunny wall, where 
the spiny-toothed, bright green 
leaves, and drooping crimson 
flowers are attractive. It de- 
lights in fibrous loam, to which 
has been added rough peat 
and leaf-mould. Olearia macro- 
donta has Holly-like leaves, 
pale green above and silvery- 
white beneath. The dense heads of white blossom are produced 
in summer. Unless in the South and West of England or other 
favoured parts, it should never be planted in the open air without 
some protection. O. stellidata {Eurybia Gunniana) is a very 
ornamental member of the Daisy-bush tribe. A rich well-drained 
soil, with a sunny aspect, protected from cold winds, should 
be chosen for it. Its pure white flowers smother its long deep 
green shoots. 

The Trumpet Honeysuckles {Lonicera sempervire?is varieties) 
are of vigorous growth, and bear clusters of richly-coloured 




Fig. 299. — LoNiCERA 

SEMPERVIRENS. 



472 



THE 



BOOK OF GARDENING. 




flowers. L. s. minor, L. s. supe7'hu7n, and the well-known type 
(Fig. 299) are the best. The Japanese Golden Honeysuckle 
(Z. hrachypoda aiireo-reticulata) has small green leaves netted 
with golden-yellow. Its long sprays are useful for mixing with 
cut flowers for table decoration. Gai-rya elliptica (Fig. 300) 
is a charming winter-flowering shrub, whose graceful catkins 
are often loin. in length, and are produced at the ends of 
the previous summer's well-ripened wood. No special kind 
of soil is necessary for the cultivation of this Californian 
shrub. Bridgesia {Ercilld) spicata attaches itself to dry walls 
as freely as the Ivy. Cotoneaster microphylla is a free grower, 

with deep green leaves, tiny white 
flowers in spring, and red berries 
in autumn. A charming shrub. 
Rhaphiolepsis japonica {R. ovatd), 
with leathery ovate leaves and straw- 
berry-like flowers in spring, and black 
berries in winter, is a most useful 
shrub for low walls. Desfontainea 
spiuosa also succeeds well against a wall. 
Its stiff Holly-like leaves, with red and 
yellow trumpet - shaped 
effective. A rich soil, good 
an abundance of water 
the chief essentials to its 



flowers, are 
drainage, and 
in early spring, are 
successful culture. 
Osmauthus ilicifolius is well adapted for the 
same purpose. O. i. piirpiireiis has purplish- 
bronze foliage, and is effective. The varie- 
gated varieties are also serviceable wall- 
coverers. 

In the warmer parts of England Eu?-ya 
japonica latifolia vaj'iegata would prove satis- 
factory on a wall. Its lanceolate silvery-grey 
leaves are bordered and blotched with cream- 
white. Cajpenteria californica is a lovely 
white-flowered shrub, which in these islands 
should at least be afforded the protection 
of a wall. Its bunches of fragrant flowers 
are relieved by clusters of golden-yellow stamens. Rough loam 
and peat suit it admirably, but care should be taken not to 
expose it to cold draughts. Benthainia fragifej-a makes a hand- 
some shrub where it thrives. Its great beauty lies not so much 
in its flowers as in its large, globular, reddish-yellow fruits. A 
cold, wet soil is unsuitable for the well-being of this fine 
shrub. Elceagmis pungens, with its gold- and silver-leaved forms, 
are easily grown, and are of great ornamental value. The Japanese 
Euonymuses are efl'ective wall shrubs. Euonymus japonica macro- 
phyllus has handsome deep green leaves, and is beautiful at all 



Fig. 



300. — Garrya 
elliptica. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



473 



seasons. E. j. Due D'Anjou and E. j. latifolia alba variegata 
are desirable kinds. E, radicals variegata is of quick growth, 
and- soon forms a dense mass of foliage, and attaches itself to 
walls freely. Silver Gem is a bright silver-leaved shrub, and 
valuable for winter bedding. 

Magnolia grandiflora (Fig. 301) makes a handsome wall shrub. 
Its large glossy green leaves are always pleasing, while its big, 
pure white, fragrant flowers are much admired. Free, open 
loam suits it famously ; perfect drainage should be secured, 
and an eastern exposure avoided. PassHiora ccerulea (Blue 




Fig. 301. — ^Magnolia geandifloea.. 



Passion Flower) is well adapted for planting against a south 
wall ; while Constance Elliot is of free growth, and produces 
a wealth of pure white sweet-scented flowers. 

Pittosporic7n crassifolium succeeds against a wall. It is neat 
in growth with alternate narrow light green leaves, and bears 
dark purple flowers abundantly. P. 2'obira also deserves a 
place against a wall as it is a handsome shrub, with deep 
green leaves, and clusters of fragrant white flowers in summer. 
It is a useful seaside shrub. 

Though generally considered a greenhouse plant, the Camellia 
is hardier than many imagine. We have had under our notice 



474 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



(Fig. 



vigorous 



plants which have been grown in the open air for many years, 
and withstood severe winters without any protection. Apart from 
the beauty of the tlowers, the rich green leafage is also hand- 
some. Planted in fairly rich well-drained soil, with a sheltered 

aspect, Camel- 
lias flourish 
famously. Myr- 
fus com77U{nis 
(Myrtle) is a 
neat wall shrub, 
with small deep 
green leaves and 
pure white 
flowers. Hol- 
bcelUa {Stau?i- 
tonia) latiiolia 
302) is a 
clim- 
ber, with bright 
green leathery 
leaves and fragrant purple flowers ; 
it delights in full sunshine. Aris- 
totelia Macqui and its variegated 
form are handsome wall shrubs, 
but somewhat tender, especially 
A. J/. Lariegata. 

A list of wall shrubs would be 
incomplete that did not include 
the names of a few 2:ood 
Ivies, but as the varieties are 
many in number we shall only 
mention some of the most 
distinct, handsome, and robust. 
Of sreen-leaved kinds, Hedera 
amuj'eiisis {jjiao'odonta) is a choice 
variety' of more than ordinarv 
merit. It is of rapid growth, 
attaches itself to dry walls, and 
has the advantage of tilling in 
well bv side Growth at the bottom. 
Its large, overlapping, heart-shaped 
leaves are richly bronzed in winter. 
A variety with e\'en larger leaves 
Helix Je?itata (Fig. 303 ). a form of 
cheerful-lookins; Ivv. with grass-^reen 




Fig-. 302. — HOLBCELLIA 
LATIFOLIA. 



than the first-named is 
colchica. viridis is a 
foliage. The Bird's-foot Ivv [H. pedata) is distinct and pretty, 



with 
leaves 



grey 



vein: 



are glossv 



green 



lucida (Fig. 304) is very attractive : the 
in spring and summer, and heavily 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



475 



distinct and effective of 
the variety named 
included in every 



garden 



on 




Fig. 303. — Hedeea Helix dextata. 



bronzed in winter. The most distinct and effective of Ivies 
with medium-sized leaves is 
{atropiirpurea)^ and it should be 
account of 
its brilliant 
colouring in 
winter, which 
is pur pie- 
brown, 
shaded with 
black. Emer- 
ald Green is 
of close, com- 
pact habit, 
and very 
attractive ; 
triloba, gra- 
cilis, and 
canarie ?isis 
are of good 
growth, and 

add pleasing variety. Amongst silver-leaved kinds. Crippsii 
deserves to be extensively planted : its hardiness is beyond 
question, while its soft grey leaves, with white venations and 
markings, are effective. madere?isis variegata is, unfortunately, 
not quite hardy in all parts of the country, but is well 
adapted for planting in cool conservatories, vestibules, 
corridors, &:c. Its leaves are conspicuous for the broad, irregular 
white margins, while the central portion is heavily splashed with 
silvery-grey on a darker ground. marginata elegantissiina is a 
grand Ivy, of rapid growth, with medium-sized triangular pale green 

leaves, washed with 
silvery- white, and 
irregularly bordered 
with creamy-white ; 
one of the best 
of its class, mar- 
ginata rubra is 
another excellent 
free-growing silver- 
edged sort which 
towards autumn be- 
comes tinged with 
red. Of golden- 
leaved kinds, spec- 
in colour chrysomela 
In spring; its leaves 




Fig. 



504. — Hedera Helix lucida. 



tabilis aurea is beautiful, but for constancy 
is the best of the yellow-leaved group, 
are greenish-yellow, which later on assume a 



bright 



golden 



476 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



hue. succi?iata has small foliage of a lovely soft yellow, with 
conspicuous greyish veins, but is of rather slow growth, though 
a charming subject for a low wall facing south, ajigularis aurea 
is a good golden form of the well-known Jersey Ivy. arborea 
ain-ea is both distinct and handsome. In a young state the 
leaves are wholly yellow, but with age they become shaded with 
green. 

Weeping Trees and Shrubs. 

Amongst weeping kinds we may number some of the most 
beautiful forms of tree life. Little, unfortunately, seems to be 
known of this fascinating class, but planted judiciously in park 
and garden they add a distinct feature to the honie landscape. 
The evergreen sorts present characteristic beaut}^ throughout the 
year, while the deciduous kinds are distinct. 

Deciduous. — Popidus tre?iiida pendula (Weeping Aspen) does 
well in dry soils. P. Parasol de St. Julian {P. t?'e?nuloid€s) is of 
fine drooping habit, pleasing, too, in either summer or winter. 
Few trees are more effective than Betula alba pejidula Youjigi. Its 
long, slender, drooping branches, crowded with small green leaves, 
are as charming as the silvered bark in winter. B. a. tristis 
should be planted where space is restricted. Its long, elegant 
branchlets fall almost perpendicularly, while the centre growth 
arches gracefully. B. a. laciniata phidida is a graceful cut-leaved 
Birch, of free growth, with pendulous branchlets and deep green 
leaves. The tall, slender stem is pure white. Many of the Elms 
are graceful. Ulmus suberosa pendula is very distinct and orna- 
mental. U. cainpestris microphylla peiidida is a smaU-leaved variety 
of elegant drooping habit. U. c. pendida nova grows freely, 
and has graceful twiggy branches. The Weeping Wych Elm 
{U. monta?ia pe?idula) is a very beautiful tree, far too uncommon in 
gardens, but so strong and graceful that we hope planters will 
think of it. 

The Prunuses are free-llowering shmbs, and very beautiful in 
spring when mantled in blossom. P?-u?ius (Cerasus) MaJialeb 
pendida is a much-branched shrub, with white flowers. P. (C) 
Aviiwi pendida is also very beautiful, but more vigorous in 
growth. P. ( C.) sempei'florens (All Saint"s Cherry) produces a 
profusion of white flowers in summer and richh--coloured 
fruits in autumn. It is generally grafted on stocks of the 
common Cherry, on which it unites readily, and soon forms 
a round head with long, graceful branches hanging evenly on 
all sides. P. (C) pendida p-osea has rose-coloured double flowers 
which almost hide the long, pendulous branches. Here we have 
a precious flowering tree, so beautiful that we hope every 
gardener, or those interested in tree-planting, wiU use it freely. 
P. serotina pendula is another easily-grown and weeping shrub. 



ox TREES AND SHRUBS. 477 

Pyriis priinifoUa pendula is easily recognised by its umbrella-like 
form. We know of few trees so thoroughly pendulous as this, and 
it therefore deserves special notice. 

Salix purpurea pendula (American Weeeping Willow) 
forms a dense head and thrives well in hungry soils and bleak 
situations. S. caprea pendula (Kilmarnock Weeping Willow) is 
distinct, vigorous, and beautiful, particularly so when in flower 
in early spring. The dark green leaves are large and clothed 
with white tomentum on the under - surface. 6'. babylonica 




Fig. 305. — SoPHORA japoxica pendula. 



(Babylonian Willow) is one of the most beautiful and 
best known of all weeping trees, and is well adapted for 
planting by lake or stream. Acer Wieri laciniatum (Wier's 
cut-leaved Silver Maple) is welcome upon the outskirts of 
the lawn, its long, slender, drooping shoots being clothed with 
delicately cut foliage. 

x\ tree that might be used oftener with good effect is Fagus 
sylvatica purpurea pendula^ whose richly-tinted foliage adds 
pleasing variety to the garden and park. It thrives in dry as well 
as in moist soils. The green-leaved weeping form {F. s. pendula) 



478 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



is distinct, but inferior to the purple-leaved variety. For general 
effect, Sophora japonica pendula is worthy of wider recognition. 
Its winter effect (Fig. 305) is perhaps more conspicuous than its 
summer beauty. The fragrant Lime family comprises several kinds 
of graceful habit, including Tilia petiolaris {T. americana pendula) 
and T. dasystyla. Alniis incana pendula ?wva is an elegant 
tree, well adapted for moist situations. Fraxifius excelsior 
pendula (Weeping Ash) may be successfully grown in any soil 
or position that suits the Common Ash ; it is a handsome tree. 
F. e. aurea pendula is a yellow-leaved form of the last-named. 
Its bark is also yellow, which makes it valuable for winter 
effect. It should, however, be planted in exposed situations so 
that its foliage in spring and summer, and bark in winter, may 
be seen to the best advantage. 

The Siberian Pea Trees {Caragana arborescens pendula and 
C. pygmced) are distinct and useful for small gardens. Their pea- 
shaped flowers are very attractive. The Weeping Dogwood 
( Cornus florida pendula^ is hardy and of good growth, and its leaves 
die off a brilliant red in autumn. Labur7ium vulgare pendula is 
deservedly popular. Its long drooping racemes of golden-yellow 
pea- shaped blossoms are effective. Lai'ix europcea pendula is one 
of the most picturesque of weeping trees, especially in early 
spring. It succeeds best when planted in a fairly moist rich 
soil. 

Evergreen. — The number of evergreen trees of pendulous 
habit are not numerous, but the list comprises a few handsome 
kinds. Picea Morinda {Abies S^nithiana) is a Fir of simple 
culture, and thrives well in cold, wet soils, a recommendation 
of no mean value. Cupressus Lawsonidna pendula vera is of 
loose growth, and quite distinct ; it is not fastidious as to soil. 
C. L. filifera has long thread-like branchlets, which hang grace- 
fully ; it succeeds best in well-drained soil. C. L. intertexta is 
another very fine pendulous Cypress. Hardy, free in growth, 
and of beautiful outline, this variety is well adapted for growing 
as isolated specimens on the lawn. C. nootkaensis pendula is a 
decided weeping variety of the Nootka Sound Cypress, having 
long drooping branchlets of a rich green shade. 

Thuya {Biota) orientalis pendula (Whipcord Thuya) is as free in 
growth as the common kind. The long whipcord-like grow^ths 
are graceful and effective, and form quite a contrast to the some- 
what formal habit of T. {B.) orientalis. T. occidenialis pendula is a 
very ornamental variety, with elegant drooping branches. Though 
little known, Juniperus co77i7nunis oblonga pe7idula is by no means 
without attraction, as its sharp-pointed leaves hang on long, 
slender branchlets. J. virgi7iiana pendula is a free grower of 
excellent habit, with numerous branches of a decidedly weeping 
tendency. Cedrus Deodar a adds variety to a selection of orna- 
mental trees. Although the Sacred Cedar is of weeping habit. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



479 



the variety named robusia is much more so, and \YOrthy of a 
place amongst choice weeping trees. 

Of Yews, Taxus baccaia Doiasioni (Fig. 306) is very effective. 
T. b. D. aurea pendiila^ with pale green leaves, striped and 
margined with golden-yellow, is equally handsome. T. b. pendula 
is a splendid shrub for small gardens. Worked on stocks a few 
feet Irom the ground its pendulous branches fall evenly on all 
sides, and soon assume an umbrella-like form: its foliage is of 





Fig. 306. — Taxus baccata Dovastoni. 

the darkest green. One of the most beautiful and useful ot 
weeping trees is the pendulous form of Jkx AguifoHum ; its 
deep glossy green leaves are always pleasing, and the bright red 
berries add colour to it in winter. J. A. argentea pendula has 
long arching shoots clothed with grey and soft green foliage. 
Another beautiful silver-leaved kind is /. A. pendula pida. Of 
golden-leaved sorts / A. pendula aurea is deserving of wider 
culture, being of free growth and very ornamental. 



48o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Conifers. 

Abies (Silver Firs). — The Silver Firs comprise some of the 
most beautiful Conifers for park decoration. Although perfectly 
hardy, shelter from piercing winds should be given, and a good 
loam enriched with vegetable matter is the soil that suits them 
best. Good drainage is essential. 

A. amahilis {Ficea amabilis) is a charming and uncommon 
Fir. It is of noble outline, somewhat similar in appearance 
to A. Nordmanniatia^ with spreading branches and deep bluish- 
green leaves arranged closely together and powdered with 
white on the under-sides. A. balsamea {Picea balsamea)^ well 
known as the Balm of Gilead, forms a medium-sized pyramidal 
tree in the way of A. pectinata. It is well supplied with light 
green leaves, and its dark purple cones are borne freely. As 
it is apt to start growth early in spring, it should only be planted 
in positions not likely to encourage early growth. A. brachyphylla 
is a remarkably fine Silver Fir from Japan, and is a valuable tree 
for park decoration. It is perfectly hardy, exceedingly handsome, 
with an erect stem, horizontal branches down to the ground, 
and clothed with rich green leaves having white lines on the 
under-sides. It prefers a moist soil, and is seen to better 
advantage when screened from east winds. A. bracteata 
{A. veiiKsta, Ficea bracteata) is a North American species, with a 
straight, rather slender trunk, and pyramidal habit, the branches 
being clothed with handsome thick dark green leaves closely 
set together. Its distinct and beautiful cones are about 4in. 
long and 2 in. in diameter, with long, narrow, leaf-like bracts, 
which give additional beauty. An exposed situation should be 
selected for this Fir, as it has a tendency to grow early in 
spring, and generally suffers from late frosts. 

A. cephalonica {A. panachaica^ Ficea cephaloiiica)^ frequently 
called Grecian Fir, forms a good-sized tree, of distinct appearance 
and free growth. Its branches are horizontal and clothed with 
stiff deep green leaves, silvery on the under-sides. Although 
hardy, it is liable to disfigurement by sharp spring frosts unless 
planted in exposed positions. Large trees bear great quantities 
of rich velvety-brown cones, and are very beautiful. A. concolor 
{Ficea cojicolor) is a handsome, very hardy North American Fir, of 
free growth on exposed, well-drained soils. It has a straight 
trunk, spreading branches, close habit, and pleasing glaucous 
green leaves. A. c. violacea {Ficea concolor violacea) is a 
remarkably beautiful variety, and one of the most charming of 
its class — thoroughly hardy, free in growth, and quite distinct, 
with bluish glaucous leaves. A. firma {A. bifolia, A. holophylla), 
a Japanese Silver Fir, was introduced to this country by Mr. 
J. G. Veitch, in 1861. In habit it bears some resemblance to 
the Common Silver Fir. Its trunk is erect, and the branches are 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



481 



horizontal, clothed with short, shining green, stiff leaves, arranged 
in a spiral manner, with faint silvery lines on the under-sides. A 
beautiful tree, well adapted for the park, but unfortunately little 
planted. A. grandis {Ficea g?'andis\ discovered by Mr. Douglas in 
1831, is a North American species, with stout spreading branches 
and rich green leaves, silvery on the under-sides. The elegant 
cones are cylindrical in shape, 6in. long, 2-|in. in diameter, and of 
a brownish colour. Although not exacting in its requirements as 
to soil, it prefers a damp, 
rich loam. A. Lowiana 
(Fig. 307), a massive-looking 
Californian species, bears 
some resemblance to A. con- 
color. It is free in 
growth, of pyramidal 
outhne, with horizon- 
tal, rather pendulous 
branches, clothed with 
long, soft green leaves. 
The cones are 
borne in clusters, 
and chestnut- 
brown in colour ; 
a grand tree for 
the park. A. 
magjiifica (A. cam- 
py locarp a, Ficea 
magnificat is of 
fairly fast growth, 
and a fine Conifer 
for ornamental 
planting. A. Ma- 
riesii, of Japanese 
origin, is a beau- 
tiful Fir for the 
lawn, perfectly 
hardy, quite dis- 
tinct, and spe- 
cially useful for 
decorative planting, 
spreading branches 




Fig. 307. — Abies Lowiaxa. 

(Young Plant.) 



It is of pyramidal habit. 



vigorous 



^ the 

being clothed with deep green leaves. 
A. nobilis {Picea nobilis), indigenous to California, is a noble, 
hardy Fir, with stout erect trunk, furnished with stiff 
branches and rich green leaves, having glaucous lines on the 
under-sides. Its attractive cones are about 6in. long, and borne 
freely. A. Nordmaniiiana {Picea Nordma7miaiia) (Fig. 308) is 
perhaps the most ornamental and the best known of all the 
vigorous-growing Silver Firs. It succeeds admirably on all soils, 



2 I 



482 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and unlike most of its congeners does not start into growth 
sufficiently early to be damaged by spring frosts. The horizontal, 
rigid branches are furnished with glossy green leaves, and the egg- 
shaped cones are from 5in. to 6in. long and 2^in. in diameter. 




Fig. 308. — Abies Nordmanniana. 



A valuable tree for the park and lawn. A. pectinata (Ficea 
pectinata\ the well-known Silver Fir from Central and Southern 
Europe, is extensively employed for game preserves and break- 
winds to tender trees and shrubs in England. A. Pinsapo forms 



ox TREES AXD SHRUBS. 483 

a handsome tree, 70ft. high, of pyramidal habit, with short, 
sharply-pointed, bright green leaves arranged all round the 
branches. The cones, which are abundantly produced on large 
trees, are very handsome, about 6in. long and 2^in. broad. This 
tree should be allowed plenty of room to display its beauty. 

^4. Veitchii {A. Eichleri^ A. itephrolepis, Pice a Veitchii) is a 
beautiful species from Japan, with a slender trunk covered with 
greyish bark. The spreading branches are clothed with light 
green leaves covered with silvery-white on the under-sides. It 
is quite hardy in the British Isles, vigorous in growth, decidedly 
attractive, and well adapted for either the lawn or the pleasure- 
ground. A. Webbiana (A. chiIoe?isis, Picea Webbiana ) is a 
vigorous - growing species of pyramidal habit, with deep green 
leaves having silvery lines beneath. Its cones are about 7 in. long, 
and very beautiful. This uncommon Tir has suffered somewhat 
by injudicious planting. It breaks into growth rather early in 
spring, and occasionally becomes disfigured by late frosts. This 
can be overcome by planting on a cold soil and in exposed 
situations. A. IK obovata is a charming but little known Silver 
Fir. In habit and general appearance it is similar to the type, 
but differs from it by reason of its conspicuous snowy whiteness 
on the under-surface of the deep green leaves. 

Araucaria. — Practically only one species of Araiicaria is 
sufficiently hardy to withstand our winters out of doors, and that 
one is the distinct and well-known Chili Pine and ^.tonkey 
Puzzle, A. mibricata, from Chili. ^^lagnificent specimens of this 
Conifer are scattered over the British Isles, and those at 
Dropmore, near Maidenhead, are perhaps the finest of all, one 
tree — about 70ft. high, its lower branches sweeping the ground — 
having a spread of nearly 40ft. in diameter. A rich and moist 
(but not very wet) loamy soil, thoroughly well drained, suits it best, 
as then its growth is fairly rapid, and the leaves are of a deeper 
green than when planted in dry soils. This species should not 
be planted, as is unfortunately too often the case, in gardens 
where room is restricted, as it requires plenty of head-room to 
display its beauty. AVhen planting as a specimen, at least 30ft. to 
35ft. apart should be allowed. It should not be planted in smoky 
atmospheres, and it cannot be recommended for town gardens. 

Biota orientalis and its varieties. — See Thuya. 

Cedrus. — For ornamental planting the Cedars are well adapted, 
and they add grace, distinctness, and beauty to the landscape. 
They are all hardy, but the Sacred Cedar and its elegant 
varieties are liable to get damaged in spring, especially if planted 
on low-lying and insufficiently drained land. A rather sandy soil 
suits them best. 

C. atlantica (Atlas Cedar) (Fig. 309), a species from Northern 
Africa, makes a beautiful park tree, and thrives on poor soils, and 

212 



484 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



is happier on cold, stiff soils than its congeners. It is also valuable 
for planting in exposed situations, and very handsome when 




Fig. 309. — Cedrus atlantica. 

carrying its shapely cones. C. a. aii7-ea is conspicuous for its 
golden-yellow foliage, and this colour is happily constant. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



C. a. fastigiata is an erect-growing, glaucous-leaved variety, of close 
habit, and well adapted for planting in positions where the type 
would be inadmissible on account of the spread of its branches. 
C. a. glauca is similar in habit to the type, with glaucous leaves, 
which, when associated with trees having deep green foliage, are 
seen to great advantage. It has a vigorous leader, and its 
branches droop gracefully with age. This is specially useful for 
decorative planting. C. Deodar a {see page 478). C. D. erecta 
differs from the sacred Cedar by reason of its more upright 
habit, short, stiff branches, and beautiful glaucous leaves. 
C. D. robusta is a free-s^rowins variety of distinct habit, with 
larger leaves than the type. It is rather sparsely supplied with 
branches, which are given off horizontally, the lower ones 
sweeping the ground, and with age they all assume a weeping 
habit. Of free growth, it is a useful, ornamental tree, and as it 
is rather late in commencing to grow, is less liable to damage 
from late frosts than are its congeners. C. D. variegata differs 




Fig. 310. — Cedrus Libaxi. 



from the type because a number of its young growths and leaves 
are creamy-white in colour. C. D. verticillata has short branches 
clothed with glaucous leaves ; it is of rather drooping habit, and 
slow in growth. C. D. viridis is also of graceful, weeping habit, 
with long, slender branches, but in this case the leaves are of a 
rich grass-green. 

C, Libani (Cedar of Lebanon) (Fig 310) is a noble park tree, 
which has been cultivated here since 1683. It is of good growth 
and distinct habit, reaching to a height of 80ft., with a spread of 
branches frequently 50ft. The cones are about 4in. long, and 
are borne with great freedom. No soil, however poor, comes amiss 
to this picturesque tree, but it grows more rapidly when planted 
where its roots are within easy reach of water, such as by the 
margins of lakes. A grand tree for the landscape, and many fine 
examples are to be found ni English gardens. 

The species of Cedars are increased by seeds, which may be 
sown in cold frames in spring in well-drained soil, the seeds 



486 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



being slightly covered with finer soil. Plants raised from seeds 
sown in heat are less vigorous in growth than those raised under 
the cool treatment. The variegated forms may be grafted in 
spring on their respective types, and placed in close cases. The 
Larch is sometimes used as a stock, to which the Cedars readily 




Fig. 311. — Cephalotaxus pedunculata fastigiata. 



unite, and although growth is rapid in a young state it has been 
proved that plants worked on the Larch are shorter lived than 
those on the Cedar stocks. 

Cephalotaxus. — A small genus, indigenous to China and 
Japan, and useful for the park and garden. They thrive in 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 487 

ordinary soil, especially if a little peat and leaf-mould is incor- 
porated with it. They also prefer partial shade to full exposure 
to the sun, as in the last-named position their leaves, especially 




Fig. 312. — Crvptomeria japonica. 

those of C. driipacea and C. Foi'tunei, wear an unhealthy appear- 
ance. Protection from east and north winds is important. 
C. drupacea forms a low, straggling bush with horizontal branches 



488 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and short, flat branchlets. The leaves are arranged in opposite 
pairs, and are of a greenish-yellow hue. C. Fortiaiei is one of the 
most handsome members of the genus, with spreading branches 
plentifully supplied with narrow leaves, rich green above and 
soft green below. C. pedunciilata [Taxiis Harringtoniana) is a 
distinct Japanese shrub, with horizontal branches and deep green 
leaves ; it grows about 8ft. high, and is of bushy, pyramidal 
habit. C. p. fastigiata {Podocajpies Jzoraianus) (Fig.' 311), also 
from Japan, in habit bears some resemblance to the Irish 
Yew. It is of slow growth, quite hardy, and well adapted 
for winter bedding and window boxes. Its narrow leaves, about 
2 in. long, spirally arranged around the erect shoots, are deep 
green above and paler below. 

Cryptomeria. — Only one species is found in this genus, and 
that is thoroughly hardy in the British Isles. It enjoys a rich, deep 
soil, thoroughly well drained and beyond the influence of cold east 
winds. C. japonica (Japan Cedar) (Fig. 312) is a charming tree, 
and useful also for avenues. Of free growth, with a straight 
trunk covered with rough brown bark, it forms a much-branched 
tree of pyramidal habit. The spreading branches are inclined 
to droop, and are very effective when carrying the spikes of male 
catkins. C. J. elegans is an elegant tree, less vigorous than the 
type, with a straight, upright trunk, and horizontal branches 
clothed with narrow, sharply-pointed leaves, tender green in spring, 
but which in autumn assume a brownish-crimson hue, giving 
it a distinct and pleasing appearance. A beautiful tree for the 
lawn as well as for winter bedding, and in a young state is useful 
for window boxes. C. j. e. Jiana forms a bushy shrub in the rock 
garden. Like the last-named the foliage becomes stained with 
rich crimson, which shade it retains until spring. C. j. Lohbii 
differs from the type by reason of its more compact, sturdy habit, 
and smaller and deeper green leaves, as well as being of more rapid 
growth. C. j. L. nana is a much-branched spreading bush, 
growing only a few feet high. C. j. spiralis is useful for the 
rockery, but is more curious than beautiful. 

CuNNiNGHAMiA. — Unfortunately C. sinensis is hardy only in 
sheltered parts of the British Isles. Suitably placed it makes a 
handsome specimen, but in localities where severe frosts are 
prevalent the foliage becomes discoloured, and is then any- 
thing but decorative. It prefers a light, well-drained soil, and 
on no account should it be exposed to east winds. Propagation 
is best effected by seeds, as plants raised from cuttings do not 
as a rule give satisfaction. 

CuPRESSUS. — This very ornamental group now comprises the 
Retinosporas of gardens. Their habit is equally varied, some 
being columnar, or fastigiate, others spreading and pendulous, and 
a few quite globose. The following list, although not complete, 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



489 



comprises the best kinds for general planting : C. Goivenia7ia 
(C. californkd) is a low tree with ascending spreading branches and 
pendulous branchlets, clothed with rich green and slightly fragrant 




Fig. 313. — CuPRESsus Lawsoniana, 



scale-like leaves. In spring it produces an abundance ot small 
yellow male catkins, even on young plants, which gives it 
a distinct and pleasing appearance. It needs a sheltered posi- 
tion. C. Kiiightiaiia is a rare Mexican species, but unfortunately 



490 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



it is not sufficiently hardy for general outdoor culture in the 
British Isles. In the warmer counties of England and Ireland it 
grows freely, and is an object of great beauty. It has a dis- 
tinctly pyramidal habit, with reddish-brown bark and small 
bluish-green leaves. Planted in warm soil and a sheltered position, 
Knight's Cypress forms a really handsonie tree. C. Lawsoniana 
(Fig. 313) is a well-known, thoroughly hardy, and easily-grown 
Conifer. It affords a striking garden picture in spring when 
laden with its small male catkins ; these are borne on quite 
small plants, and give an additional charm. Though not 
particular as regards soil or position, the finest and most 
shapely specimens are produced in a moist, rich soil. A 
splendid lawn tree, as well as a useful and cheap hedge- 
plant. It is very variable when raised from seeds, which 
are produced abundantly in this country. 

Of the numerous varieties of Lawson's Cypress differing in 
habit, vigour, and leaf-coloration, the under-mentioned are amongst 
the most meritorious : C. L. albo-maculata is neat in growth, with 
short, compact branches, and a portion of its young growths as well 
as its leaves are stained with creamy- white, C. L. albo-spica is of 
vigorous dense habit of growth, and, like the last-named, con- 
spicuous for its silvery variegation, which it fortunately retains, 
even when planted in somewhat shady positions. C. L. albc- 
variegata originated at the Coombe Wood Nursery of Messrs. 
Veitch, and is a neat, compact variety of upright habit ; the young 
growths and leaves are marked with white. It is a pretty variety. 
C. L. Aluini is a distinct and pleasing variety, but seems to be 
little known outside ffood collections of trees and shrubs. It is 
of fastigiate habit, with bluish-green leaves, and can be well 
recommended for small gardens ; it grows freely in the 
shade. C. L. amabilis belongs to the glaucous-leaved 
group, and is quite distinct, both in habit and in leaf 
from the last-named. It is of bushy habit, but not so free in 
growth as the type ; still, it grows with moderate freedom, and 
is serviceable for ornamental planting. It retains its colour 
well, and is effective in winter. C. L. ai'gentea varies in its leaf- 
colour, and is of more than ordinary merit ; it is of compact or 
rather spreading habit, with slender branches, and leaves of a 
beautiful glaucous or silvery hue, varying in intensity according 
to position and soil ; it is a lovely lawn tree. C. L. a. va?'iegata 
is a good companion to the last-named, from which it differs in 
its young shoots and leaves being marked with creamy-white. 
C. L. Bowleri is another charming variety, of compact, dense 
habit of growth. It is freely branched, and its small branchlets 
droop gracefully. C. L. compacta is of globose habit and slow 
growth, and deserves a place in the rock garden. C. L. 
Darleyensis is a graceful and uncommon variety, of free growth, 
with leaves and shoots of a bronzy-yellow hue ; it is effective in 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



491 



winter, and well adapted for lawns and small gardens. C. L. 
erecta vii-idis (Knap Hill Cypress) is of erect, dwarf, bushy growth, 
the branches being clothed with bright green leaves. It is very 
distinct and popular. For winter bedding, and also for planting 
beside terrace walks, and in positions where the more vigorous 
growers would be inadmissible, it is useful. Its sub-variety^ 
argenfea, is a pretty variegated 
form. C. L. Fj-aseri is of much 
the same habit as Ali(i?ii, but the 
foliage is of a far more glaucous 
hue. C. L. glaiica is of shorter 
stature, denser in growth 
than the type, very 
effective, and very useful 
for decorative planting. 
C. L. gi'acilis forms 
a bushy specimen for 
the lawn, with slender 
branches and leaves of 
a cheerful green ; it 
grows freely on dry soils, 
and is a lovely variety 
for placing in vases for 
winter decoration. C. L. 
hitea {flavesceiis) is the 
best of the golden-leaved 
varieties ; it is of good 
habit, the young growths 
and leaves being quite 
yellow, which colour it 
retains longer than any 
of its class. C. L. nana 
is a very dwarf-growing 
variety, rarely exceeding 
2ft. in height, and is 
better adapted for the 
rockery than for the or- 
dinary shrubbery border. 
It is slow in growth, and 
forms a dense bush, with 
stiff erect branches and 

deep green leaves. Of all the Silver-leaved Lawson's Cypresses, 
that named Silver Queen stands head and shoulders above its 
congeners. It is free in growth, with a hardy constitution, very 
handsome, and well adapted for the garden or park. It is very 
vigorous, and retains its silvery-grey tint for a long time. C. L. 
Wisselii, a very rare and graceful variety, is well adapted for 
gardens of restricted areas. It is distinct, compact, with erect 




Fig. 314. — CupRESSus macrocarpa. 



492 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



growths close to the main stem, clothed with lovely glaucous 
foliage. A choice variety. C. L. Yoiingi is of quick growth 
and erect habit ; the ascending branches are long and, towards 
the ends, droop gracefully ; the leaves as well as the shoots are 
deep green. 

C. MacNabiana (C. glaiidulosd) rises to a height of about 
12ft. ; it is a much-branched compact tree, of pyramidal habit, 
with short glaucous leaves, and is rather rare. 

To Mr. Hartweg belongs the credit of having discovered the 
elegant C. macrocarpa (Monterey Cypress) (Fig. 314) in 
Upper California, while collecting for the Royal Horticultural 
Society, upwards of fifty years ago. It is a beautiful tree, vigorous 
and free in growth, with ascending branches and very distinct 
foliage of the brightest green. The light brown cones are about 
2in. long, and borne in small clusters. It grows about 50ft. high, 
and is a valuable species for the park, especially in the South 
and West of England. It flourishes amazingly by the sea-coast. 
C. m. fastigiata differs from the type on account of its branches 
being more upright and closer to the main stem. C. m. Crippsii 
is an attractive and distinct variegated variety. It is free in 
growth and quite hardy. The golden-leaved variety {luted) is 
one of ihe most promising of recently-introduced Conifers. It 
originated a few years ago in a bed of seedlings of C. macrocarpa 
in the nurseries of Messrs. Dicksons, Chester. It is of about 
equal hardiness to, and of the same habit as the type, and the 
golden-coloured leafage is happily permanent. For growing in pots 
or tubs for winter decoration as well as for winter bedding, this 
charming variety should meet with a large demand. It is a 
grand seaside tree. 

C. nootkatensis {Thuya nootkatensis^ Thuyopsis boreaiis), the 
well-known Nootka Sound Cypress, is a very graceful kind, 
and suitable for all sorts of decorative planting. Besides being 
one of the hardiest, it is perhaps the least exacting of the Cypress 
family, and is vigorous and of elegant habit, with drooping branch- 
lets. It is a native of British Columbia, and was discovered by 
Mr. Menzies nearly a century ago, but does not seem to have 
been grown in England until fifty years ago. C n. albo- 
variegata, though not so vigorous, is more compact than the 
type. Its terminal branchlets and leaves are variegated with 
creamy-white. C. n. aurea variegata is a yellow counterpart of 
the last-named, and should have an open spot, as the variega- 
tion is apt to fade when overshadowed by other trees. C. n. 
compacta is a pretty form, of dense growth, and useful for small 
gardens. It is very distinct. C. n. glaiica is a beautiful variety 
with glaucous leaves, which have a very pleasing effect, especially 
after a shower of rain. It is a charming sort for small gardens, 
and valuable also for ornamental planting. C. n. gracilis is 
another elegant sort, of rather dense, free growth, with slender, 




Fig, 315. — CupRESsus nootkatensis lutea. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



495 



drooping branchlets and rich, grass-green leaves. C. n. lutea^ 
the golden-leaved form (Fig. 315), is vigorous and graceful. It 
is an excellent subject for planting on the edge of the lawn, as 
its character is constant, even when placed in partial shade, but 
it delights in full exposure. 

C. obhisa {Refinospora obtusa^ Thuya obtiisa). — This is a tall- 
growing tree, reaching a height of about looft. in Japan (its 
native home). In this country it forms a pleasing pyramidal 
tree of moderate growth, and is excellent for ornamental planting. 
The numerous spreading branches, with elegant frond-like 
branchlets, are furnished with light shining green leaves. This 
species succeeds best in a moist soil, and prefers shelter from 
cold, piercing winds. C. 0. aurea is of similar habit to the type, 
with golden-yellow foliage, and is very striking in the winter 
months. C. o. compacta is a beautiful form, of dense habit, and 
quite distinct ; useful for lawns. C. 0. erecta viridis also makes 
a capital lawn shrub. It is compact in habit, dwarf, and very 
attractive in winter. C. 0. filifera is a particularly graceful 
variety, thoroughly hardy, and of good growth, even in poor 
soils. It is of bushy habit, with long thread-like growths of a 
rich green colour; a choice lawn Conifer. C o, gracilis 
aurea is a handsome golden-leaved Conifer of pyramidal outline, 
with slender, spreading branches, and elegant drooping branch- 
lets. The colour of its leaves is soft yellow, which with age 
gradually gives place to soft green. C. 0. pygmcea should have 
a place in the rock garden. It grows about ift. high, and is 
a distinct and cheerful-looking little Conifer. 

C. pisifera [Retinospora pisifera, Thuya pisifera), introduced 
from Japan at the same time as C. obhisa, grows freely, forming 
a handsome specimen, with open, spreading branches and feathery 
light green foliage. C. p. albo-picta differs from the type in the 
young branchlets and leaves being speckled w4th white, which gives 
It a distinct and pleasing appearance. C. p. 7iana aurea makes .a 
good rock-garden shrub, as it is rather too slow in growth for 
the ordinary shrubbery border. It forms a neat bush, and if 
planted in full sunlight its rich golden colour shows up well 
during the winter. C /. plumosa is a splendid tree, well adapted 
for lawns and park decoration. It is of compact pyramidal 
habit, and free in growth, with plume-like branches and rich 
green leaves. This kind bears hard pruning well, and is 
beautiful for winter bedding. C. p. p. argentea deserves special 
mention. It is very distinct and of graceful habit, and the young 
growths and foliage are marked with cream-white ; the variega- 
tion is constant. C. p. p. aurea, a yellows-leaved kind, is much 
valued for ornamental planting, and is a grand tree for the lawn 
and useful for winter bedding; a rich, moist, well-drained soil 
suits it best, and it should be planted in a sunny position to 
bring out the full beauty of its foliage. C p. squarrosa 



496 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



is another graceful variety, of rather dense growth, with short 
spreading branches clothed with lovely glaucous leaves. It is a 
beautiful lawn tree. 

C. sempervirens (upright Roman Cypress) is common in the 
Mediterranean region, whence it was introduced upw^ards of 350 
years ago. In habit it bears some resemblance to the Lom- 
bardy Poplar, but is less vigorous and not of such rapid growth. 
It is commoner in the South of England than in the North, 
and prefers a rather warm soil to a cold, wet one. The Romans 
planted this Cypress extensively around their residences, and 
on account of its habit, and the great age to which it lives, it 
has long been a favourite tree for burial grounds. C. s. fastigiata 
(C. pyramidalis) is even of closer growth than the type. 
C thyoides (White Cedar) was discovered in 1736 in the 
Eastern United States, where it forms a pyramidal tree of close 
habit, 60ft. high. It grows best when planted in moist soil, but 
makes little progress in a dry, sandy one. C. t. giauca is 
■quite distinct from the type, being ot more compact habit, 
while the leaves are of a pretty glaucous tint. C. f. variegata is 
a very desirable golden-leaved form. C. torulosa (C. Tournefortii) 
is a pyramidal tree with slender horizontal branches and 
drooping branchlets. In Northern India it growls to a great 
height, but in the British Isles is only a success when planted 
in favoured parts, as it is somewhat tender. Where it succeeds, 
however, it is very beautiful. C. t. majestica is vigorous, hand- 
some, and hardier than the type. 

Propagation may be effected by means of seeds and cuttings 
The former germinate freely if sown in sandy soil m shallow 
boxes or pans, and stood in a gentle heat. The seedlings 
should be pricked off and later on removed to a cold frame ; 
when large enough they should be planted out in nursery rows. 
Cuttings emit roots if pieces 3in. to 4in. long are taken off 
in August and dibbled in light soil in a cold frame; they 
should be watered occasionally and shaded from the sun. 

FiTZROYA. — The only member of this genus generally cultivated 
in British gardens is the Patagonian Cypress, F. patagonica, intro- 
duced to this country by Mr. W. Lobb from the mountains of 
Western Patagonia fifty years ago. In its native home it varies 
in height from 50ft. to 70ft., but in England is generally seen 
as a small tree or bush of rather slow growth. It is quite distinct 
from any other Conifer, and a vigorous, healthy specimen, with 
its numerous branches and elegant drooping slender branches, is 
very attractive. Unfortunately, it only makes satisfactory growth 
in sheltered situations, but even in cold localities it is worth 
growing in unheated glass structures. A soil composed of rough 
peat, leaf-mould, and loam in equal proportions forms a suitable 
compost for planting it in. x\mple drainage should be provided, 
otherwise the plant wall make little headway. Cuttings taken off 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



497 



towards the close ot the summer, dibbled in light soil, and stood 
in a close, intermediate frame, emit roots readily. 

Ginkgo biloba {Salisburia adiantifolid). — This is a monotypic 
genus, well known as the Maidenhair Tree, and is one of the most 
remarkable of deciduous Conifers. It is a native of China and 
Japan, and although introduced into England more than two 
centuries ago, has not been planted so freely as it merits.' It is 
a beautiful park tree, and one of the few Conifer(E suitable for 
planting in the vicinity of towns. In its native habitat it grows 
to a height of looft., but there are few specimens in England which 
exceed 6oft. It is distinct and rather slow in growth, having 
a usually straight trunk, covered with rough greyish bark, hori- 
zontal or pendulous branches, and thick yellowish-green, smooth, 
fan-shaped leaves, closely resembling in shape the pinnules of 
the Maidenhair Fern. Its autumn tints are charming. G. 
fastigiata is an erect form, of good growth, and worthy of a place 
in small gardens, G. b. macrophylla^ a strong-growing variety, 
originated in France about fifty years ago. The leaves are larger 
than those of the type, divided into three and five lobes, and 
beautifully undulated at the margins. The leaves of G. b. 
variegata are striped and splashed with soft yellow, but unless 
this form is planted in an open situation the variegation becomes 
indistinct. It is less vigorous than the type. 

A deep sandy soil suits the Maidenhair Tree, and, although 
perfectly hardy, shelter from cold winds is advisable. It makes 
little progress in wet, badly-drained soil, and in such it should 
never be planted. The Ginkgo may be propagated by seeds, also 
by layering, when the lower branches are low enough for the 
purpose. In layering, an incision should be made through a 
joint, and a little damp soil or moss pressed into the cut. This, 
again, should be covered with light soil, which should never 
be allowed to become thoroughly dry, otherwise root formation 
will be slow. Cuttings also root if taken off with a heel of the 
old wood attached and planted in sandy soil in autumn or early 
sprmg ; young, well-ripened shoots may also be taken off in 
summer and placed in a warm propagating-case. The variegated 
and pendulous forms may be increased by grafting on the type 
in spring before growth commences. 

Juniperus. — The Junipers are well adapted for the garden 
and the park. They are indigenous to the Northern Hemi- 
sphere, especially the temperate parts of Europe, and vary 
considerably both in habit and in the colour of the foliage ;. 
some are erect, medium-sized trees ; others are mere bushes, 
and yet others are of trailing habit. No special kind of soil is 
necessary, as they thrive in any ordinary kind, especially if 
leaf-mould and a little peat are incorporated with it at 
planting-time. 



498 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



J. chinensis is a distinct and beautiful species found in 
China, Japan, and the Temperate Himalayas. It is a variable 
tree, but is generally of low pyramidal or conical habit, with 
short branches, and glaucous or light green prickly leaves. In 
any form it is a valuable tree for the shrubbery or small lawn, 
and succeeds in cold soils. J. c. albo-variegaia, introduced by 
Mr. R. Fortune, from China, is a compact variety, with variegated 
foliage, the colour of which is apt to fade unless the tree is planted 
in the open. It is also of variable character, and shorter in stature 
than the type. /. c. aurea is a distinct and pleasing variety 
of compact, upright habit, the 
young growths being of a rich 
• golden-yellow, which colour is 
intensified by full exposure to 
the sun. In winter the leaves 
assume a bronzy hue, which 
gives additional beauty. It 
is useful for small gardens and 
for winter bedding. J. c. 
glauca is a free-growing, pretty 
variety, with glaucous leaves. 
J. c. Smithii is vigorous in 
growth, quite distinct, and 
very beautiful. 

J. communis is a British 
species, varying in height from 
8ft. to 2oft,, according to soil 
and situation. It prefers par- 
tial shade, and is suitable 
for planting beside woodland 
walks ; it also makes an excel- 
lent covert shrub, as it is not 
subject to the attacks of 
ground game. J. c. alpina 
aurea should have a place on 
the rockery, as it is a charming 
Conifer of low growth ; in 
spring and summer its foliage 
is pale yellow, and in winter 
the whole becomes bronzed, 

which gives it a distinct and picturesque appearance. J. c. 
compressa is a neat dwarf shrub, of conical habit, less than 
ift. in height, and, like the last-named, is worthy of a place 
in the rock garden. J. c. hibernica (Upright Irish Juniper) has 
erect branches, closely packed together, and small glaucous 
green leaves ; it is useful for planting by the sides of walks, 
as it occupies little room, is ornamental, and well adapted 
for small lawns. J. c. nana, from Northern Europe, is a 




Fig. 316. — JuNiPERUs drupacea. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



499 



pretty variety, of low growth, with short branches and 
small sharply-pointed glaucous leaves. J. c. oblonga requires 
a rich soil. It forms a medium-sized bush with bright green 
leaves. J. c. suecica (Swedish Juniper) is of robust and 
compact habit, and its branches are well clothed with glaucous 
leaves. 

J. drupacea (Plum-fruited Juniper) (Fig. 316) is a distinct species, 
introduced from Asia ]vIinor about fifty years ago. It is a 
handsome Conifer for small lawns, and when planted in loamy, 
well-drained soil and sheltered situations, forms a tree of upright 
habit, with leaves of a rich green shade. J. excelsa, an elegant 
species from Asia Minor, was ■ introduced to this country 
in 1806. It is free in growth, much branched, and its 
slender branchlets are clothed with greyish leaves ; both 
distinct and handsome. J. e. Perkinsii is distinctly free in 
growth, very beautiful, of pyramidal habit, and its glaucous 
leaves show up well in winter. J. e. stricta forms an 
ornamental tree, with pale green leaves ; it is of closer 
habit than the type. J. japojiica aiirea bears some resemblance 
to J. chiiiensis aiirea, but differs from that form in its branchlets 
being longer and more pendulous. The leaves are yellow, 
becoming brown as winter approaches. It is rather slow in 
growth. J. litoralis {/. conferta), a beautiful Japanese kind, is of 
prostrate habit, and forms a dense carpet. Its glaucous leaves 
and reddish-brown bark — especially of the young wood — are par- 
ticularly pleasing in winter. It is free in growth and a delight- 
ful rock-garden shrub. /. occidentalis Biirkei forms a neat tree 
of pyramidal outline, with drooping branchlets. J. pachyphlcea 
is a rather rare species, indigenous to New Mexico, and quite 
hardy here. Its chief recommendation is the glaucous hue of 
its foliage and young growths, but as the tree gets old it is apt 
to become unsightly. It is very attractive in a young state. 
J. ph(Enicea {/. bacdformis, J. fetragona), from the Mediterranean 
region, has been cultivated in this country for upwards of 200 
years. It forms a conical or pyramidal tree, covered with 
conspicuous brownish - red bark. The slender branches are 
clothed with pale green scale-like leaves. It is a useful lawn tree. 
J. rigida, discovered on the mountains of Japan in 1861, 
forms a very handsome small tree. It is of rather irregular 
outline, with drooping branches, the young wood being brown 
and the narrow, stiff, needle-shaped leaves rich green. The 
latter assume a brownish hue in winter. Like the last-named, 
it is a beautiful lawn tree. 

J. Sabina (Common Savin) (Fig. 317) has been cultivated in 
British gardens for upwards of four centuries, and although not so 
ornamenXal as some of its congeners, is useful for planting on 
mounds and rockeries. It forms a dwarf shrub of spreading 
habit, and grows freely in light soils. J. S. procuvibens is an 

2 K 2 



500 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ouni 




excellent rock-garden Conifer, and very attractive in winter on 
account of its violet foliage. It is very distinct, of neat growth, 
and thoroughly hardy. J. S. pi-osti^ata^ from the Rocky Mountains, 
is of trailing habit, and well suited for covering banks. J. S. 
tamariscifolia is a pleasing variety, of dwarf habit, with bluish- 
green leaves. It rarely exceeds ift. in height, and may be used 
with' excellent results as a permanent edging to beds planted 

with dwarf-growing shrubs. J. S. variegata 
is similar in habit to the type, but the 
young leaves, and a portion of 
growths, are creamy- 
e. It is a pretty 
-garden shrub, espe- 
cially when 
planted in 
the shade. 

J. sphcerica 
{/. Fortufiei), 
introdu c e d 
from North- 
ern China by 
Mr. R. For- 
tune in 1846, 

Fig. 317.— -Juniperus Sabina. is of upright, 

elegant habit, 

distinct, and attractive. J. S. glauca {/. Sheppardi) is a glaucous- 
leaved form of the last named, and very showy in winter. 
J. thuj'ifera (Spanish Juniper) is an old occupant of our gardens, 
having been introduced from Spain in 1752. It has an erect, 
slender trunk, and short ascending branches, covered with small 
grey leaves, and is very conspicuous when laden with its 
crops of black berries. It is well adapted for small gardens. 
J. virginiaiia (Red Cedar) is indigenous to North-East America, 
and was introduced into this country in 1664. It is a charming 
tree of pyramidal or conical habit, often reaching a height of 
40ft. Its short branches and numerous drooping branchlets are 
furnished with rich green leaves. J. v. aurea, though not so free 
in growth as the type, is very ornamental ; its young shoots and 
leaves are yellow, but it is only w^hen planted in a rather 
shady spot that its true character is maintained. /. v. compacta 
is very compact, free in growth, and excellent for small 
gardens. J. v. glauca is a charming variety, distinct, and of 
good growth ; the slender branchlets are clothed wdth small 
silvery leaves, varying to glaucous-green in winter ; a pretty lawn 
tree. J. v. Schotti is of loose, pyramidal habit, with small, scale- 
like leaves of various shades of green, which towards winter 
assume a bronzy hue ; it is very useful for ornamental planting. 
/. V. viridis is another excellent sort, and verv free. It is of 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



rather loose growth, and the drooping branchlets and small leaves 
are of a rich green colour, 

Larix (Larches). — L. europcea is one of the most charming of 
trees. Besides being one of the hardiest, it is perhaps the least 
fastidious of all Conifers, as far as soil is concerned, as it 
flourishes in poor as well as in rich soil. Its long, straight stem, 
Soft, or more in height, and rather short branches, with clusters 
of narrow light green 
leaves, form a beauti- 
ful picture in early 
spring against the 
sky. It is of ex- 
tremely elegant 
growth, and with 
age its branches 
have a decided 
drooping tendency, 
which imparts addi- 
tional beauty. 
L. e. rossica is 
more compact 
than the type, 
vigorous, free 
in growth, and 
of graceful 
habit. Z. e. 
sibirica (Z. 
archangelicd) 
is a much- 
branched vari- 
ety, having stout hori- 
zontal branches, and nu- 
merous drooping branch- 
lets clothed with rich 
green leaves. 

Z. Griffithii bears some 
resemblance to the Com- 
mon Larch, but differs 
from that species in its 
slenderer habit and longer 
erect cones. It is a Hima- 




FlG. 318. — LiBOCEDRUS CHILENSIS. 



layan species, introduced 

about fifty years ago, and succeeds best when planted in rich 
soil and shielded from cold, piercing winds. 

The Larch is readily increased from seed, which should, 
however, be gathered from healthy, vigorous trees, as seed taken 
from sickly ones generally produces weakly trees, which are apt 
to suffer from the terrible Larch disease, once so common, but 



502 



THE BOOK OF GARDEXIXG. 



happily less so now. The seed may be sown in well pulverised 
soil, and when a few inches high the seedlings should be pricked 
off into nursery rows. As the Larch commences to grow very 
early in the spring, autumn planting is preferable. 

LiBOCEDRUS CHiLEXSis {Thiija chile Hsis) (Fig. 318) deserves a 
sheltered corner, as it is a very ornamental and distinct tree. 
It was introduced about fifty years ago from South Chili, where 
it forms a much-branched tree, 50ft. high, and of close, compact, 
pyramidal outline, its branches being clothed with glaucous green 
leaves. A rich, moist, well-drained soil and sunny spot suits 
this rare Conifer best. 

L. decurrens (Incense Cedar) is the hardiest and most vigorous 
of the genus. It forms a tree about looft. high, with a straight 
trunk and short branches of close habit, and it is suitable for 
planting in gardens of limited extent. L. d. compacta is a much- 
branched variety of neat growth. L. d. glauca is of similar 
habit to the type, quite hard}", and very beautiful ; its leaves are 
of a bluish-green shade. 

PiCEA (Spruce Firs). — P. ajaneiisis^ from Japan, is a pretty 
Spruce, of sturdy growth, with horizontal branches, flat branchlets 
and narrow leaves, which are deep green above and silvery-white 
on the under-sides. It is quite hardy, very effective, and bears 
an abundance of small cones. P. Alcockiana {Abies bicolor^ 
A. acicularis)^ also indigenous to Japan, is an attractive species, 
introduced about forty years ago. It is of pyramidal habit, ar.d 
is often confounded with P. ajanensis ; it is, however, more 
rapid in growth and later in commencing to grow in spring. 
Although P. Eiigelmanni has been grown in English gardens 
since 1864, it is even now by no means plentiful, con- 
sidering its value as an ornamental tree. It is erect, with 
spreading branches and long rich green leaves. P. E. glauca is 
a handsome variety, similar in habit to the type, but differing in 
its bluish-grey leaves ; it is very hardy, and a line lawn tree. 
The origin of P. ericoides seems veiled in obscurity : it is, 
nevertheless, a distinct and pretty Fir. It is of pyramidal 
outline, and forms a densely-branched small tree, with slender 
branches and short pale green leaves. It is rather slow in 
growth, but pleasing in appearance, and deserves wider recognition ; 
useful for small gardens. 

P. excelsa (Norway Spruce) is a well-known tree seldom 
planted for ornamental purposes, but it makes an excellent shelter 
to tender shrubs. It flourishes in all soils, but delights in a 
moist one, as its growth is then much more rapid and the tree 
more shapely than when planted in dry ground. There are 
numerous varieties of the Norway Spruce, differing in habit, 
vigour, leaf colour, *i:c. The following is a selection of the most 
meritorious : P. e. ain-ea, a srolden-leaved, showv varietv. needs 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



a warm soil and a sunny situation to bring out its true leaf- 
colouring. P. e. ciiici7i7iata is a vigorous variety having 
horizontal branches, drooping branchlets, and rich green 
leaves. It is free in growth, distinct, and uncommon. 
P. e. Clanbrassiliaiia, popularly known as Lord Clanbrassil's 
Spruce, originated on his lordship's estate near Belfast 
towards the close of last century. It is of dwarf, compact habit, 
and on account of its slow growth deserves a place in the rock 
garden. P. e. compacta is, as its name implies, compact in habit ; 
it is also very attractive and quite distinct. P. e. diffusa belongs 
to the dwarf-growing group, and is well adapted for rockeries. 
P. e. dmnosa is a neat, much-branched, pyramidal, low tree, 
rather slow in growth, and worthy of recognition. P. e. finedon- 
ensis is a pyramidal, much-branched, elegant tree, having fan- 
shaped branches clothed with greenish-yellow leaves, varying to 
brown ; distinct and handsome. P. e. Gregoryana is a dwarf, 
sturdy-growing Spruce, having spreading branches clothed with 
short, stiff, rich green leaves ; it is of conical habit, and well 
adapted for the rock garden. P. e. pygmcea^ like the last-named, 
forms a conical bush ; it is the dwarfest of Spruces, and useful 
for the rockery. P. e. pyramidalis, an ornamental tree, is 
decidedly more important than the type. It is vigorous, with 
branches of rather upright growth, and deserves wider culture. 

P. nigra Doumetti^ although not so vigorous as the North 
American Black Spruce, forms a handsome specimen, with 
numerous short branches and small leaves, and is of compact, 
bushy habit. P. Omorika (Servian Spruce) is distinct, free in 
growth, and of pyramidal outline. It has an erect trunk and short, 
spreading, fan-shaped branches, clothed with rich green leaves. 
Its short cones are attractive, and borne freely ; a pretty and 
uncommon lawn tree. P. orientalis {Abies Wittmajmiana) is a very 
ornamental Conifer, introduced into this country about sixty years 
ago. In a moist, rich, well-drained soil its growth is fairly fast, 
but in dry ground it is rather slow. It is distinctly pyramidal in 
outline, with fan-shaped branches, and in spring its young leaves 
are soft yellow, varying to deep green as the season advances. 
It succeeds in exposed situations, and may be recommended as 
a good lawn tree. P. polita {Abies Tora7io), the Tiger-tail Spruce, 
was introduced from Japan about forty years ago. It is a distinct 
and handsome Spruce for the park and lawn, as it is perfectly 
hardy and of good growth. It is of conical, sturdy habit, the 
horizontal branches being clothed with stiff, rich green, sharply- 
pointed leaves. When the tree has reached a certain size the 
branchlets droop gracefully. It is scarcely ever injured by spring 
frosts, as it is late in commencing to push forth new growths. 
The pendulous cones are about 4in. long, and are borne at the 
ends of the branches. P. pungens {P. Pa7'?ya?ia) is of vigorous 
growth, having an erect stout trunk and rather flat, short branches, 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



clothed with stiff green leaves. P. p. glauca (Blue Spruce) 
(Fig. 319) is strikingly beautiful, with glaucous leaves ; in habit, 
it is identical with the type. P. sitchensis {Picea j\fe?iziesii\ 
Abies Menziesii, A. sitche?isis), a North American species, 
becomes a large tree of good form when planted in damp soil 
and an open situation. Its trunk is erect, and the branches are 
horizontal, with drooping branchlets and narrow pale green leaves, 
on the under-sides. 



glaucous 

PiNUS. — The genus Pinus 
most of which are natives of 




Fig. 



320. — Pixus 



COXTORTA. 



long 



and rather slender branches and 
screen leaves. It is indi2;enous to 
handsome in the landscape. P. Cembra 
is of compact growth and very attractive. 



comprises about seventy species, 
the Northern Hemisphere. Some 
are lovely trees for 
decorative planting, and 
those here mentioned 
are a few of the best. 

P. Ayacahuife, an 
uncommon Pine, is a 
native of Mexico, and 
bears a slight resem- 
blance to P. Sfrebus. 
Although hardy in the 
British Isles, it should 
have shelter from cold 
winds. It grows freely, 
and forms a much- 
branched tree, with 
narrow glaucous leaves. 
It is a handsome lawn 
tree. P. Balfoiiriana 
(Fox-tail Pine) is of 
sturdy growth, com- 
pact, and bushy. Being 
slow in o;rowtti and of 
medium height, it is 
valuable for planting in 
positions where the 
more vigorous sorts 
would be inadmissible. 
Its short glaucous 
leaves, arranged all 
round the shoots, are 
distinct and pleasing. 
P. Bungeana (Lace-Bark 
Pine) is an elegant, 
medium-sized tree, with 
narrow, stiff. 



bright 



North China, and very 
(Swiss Stone Pine) 
It is of pyramidal 




Fig. 319. — PiCEA PUNGENS GLAUCA. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



habit, and in a young state rather slow in growth, but 
when properly established it grows fairly rapidly. P. contorta 
{P. Bolanderi^ P. Boursieri) (Fig. 320) is a medium-sized 
handsome tree from California, with a straight, stout trunk, short 
branches, and deep green leaves. It thrives well in damp soils, 
and owing to the short spread of its branches it can be recom- 
mended for gardens of restricted areas. P. Coulteri {P. macro- 
carpd) succeeds admirably on poor soils, and is amongst the 
most ornamental of Pines. It is a Californian species, distinct, 
and free in growth, with long, strong, horizontal branches and 
long, narrow, glaucous 
leaves. A radius of about 
30ft, should be allowed for 
this tree to reveal its true 
character. 



P. excelsa (Bhotan Pine) 
(Fig. 321), an elegant 
Himalayan species, is quite 
hardy, and has an erect 
trunk with long, spreading 
branches, feathered to the 
ground. Its pendulous 
leaves are long and bluish- 
green in colour. It requires 
plenty of head-room, and 
succeeds best in light soil. 
Shelter from east wind is 
important. P. halepensis 
{P. abchasica, P. maritima, 
P. Pithyusa), the Jeru- 
salem Pine, prefers shelter 
from piercing winds. It is 
a medium-sized tree of 
pyramidal outline, with 
slender branches and long 
pale green leaves. For 
planting in the warmer 
counties, especially in mari- 
time districts, this species is well adapted. P. 
{P. radiata), the Monterey Pine, is a particularly handsome 
Californian species, fairly hardy, and free in growth, having 
numerous stout branches, closely packed with glossy green 
leaves. It is a splendid lawn tree, and like the last-named 
should be shielded from cold winds. It is spring tender, 
for which reason it should be planted in a cold soil, and in 
a situation not favourable to early growth. A capital Pine 
for the sea coast. P. Jeffrey i, also a Californian species, forms 
a tall, handsome tree, with a rather spreading head, bearing 




Fig. 321.— Pinus excelsa. 



insigms 



5o8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



some resemblance to P. ponderosa. Its leaves are about 9in. long, 
and are of a charming glaucous tint. P. La77ibertiana (Sugar 
Pine) is a gigantic species, quite hardy, and a splendid park 
tree. It is rather rare, but succeeds admirably in sandy soil. In 
North America this Pine is a noble feature in the landscape. 
P. Laricio (Corsican Pine) is indigenous to the South of 
Europe, and extends to the West and North of Asia. It is of 
rapid growth, with a tall, erect trunk. It thrives in all soils and 
exposed situations, and is valua-ble for ornamental planting. 
P. L. ausiriaca arrests attention by reason of its bold and 
picturesque effect ; although one of the commonest sorts, it is 

one of the hardiest and best 
for serving as a breakwind to 
tender trees and shrubs, and 
grows freely in soft soils ; it is 
a good seaside Pine. P. L. 
Pallasiafia {P. caramanicd) is, as 
an ornamental tree, even finer 
than the type. It is a rapid 
grower, with a straight trunk, 
horizontal branches, and deep 
shining green leaves. P. L. 
pygmcEa is much slower in growth 
than the type, and differs also 
in its dwarf, compact, pyramidal 
habit. P. monticola is suitable 
for both the park and the garden. 
It grows upwards of 70ft. high, 
with an erect trunk and short 
branches, clothed with rich green 
leaves. It prefers a damp soil. 
P. muricata {P. Edgariand) is a 
medium-sized massive tree, with 
spreading branches and dark 
green foliage. It is very distinct, 
and of easy culture, thriving 
better in dry, sandy soils than the majority of Pines. 

P. Pinaster (Cluster Pine) (Fig. 322) is indigenous to the 
Mediterranean shores, and when planted in sandy soil forms 
a splendid specimen. It is a noble tree for shelter, and one of 
the best for the sea coast. P. Pinea (Stone or Parasol Pine) 
(Fig. 323) is rather slow in growth, forming a picturesque round- 
headed tree. It has been cultivated in this country for upwards 
of three centuries, but is rather tender, and has not been 
extensively planted. Although of little use as a timber tree, it 
is well adapted for ornamental planting in the warmer counties. 
It succeeds best in sandy soil, and should be shielded from 
piercing winds. P. Strobus (Weymouth Pine), a native of North 




Fig. 322. — PiNus Pinaster. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



America, grows vigorously in cool moist soil. It is distinct and 
very handsome. Its leaves are pale green with silvery lines 
beneath. P. sylvestris (Scotch Fir) is a handsome, very hardy Fir, 
too well known to need more than passing reference. It thrives 
on all soils, is of rapid growth, and very cheap. P. s. aiirea 
(Golden Scotch Fir) is very attractive, especially in winter ; it is a 
slow-growing variety, and although its leaves are usually of a 
pale green "shade in summer, they assume a rich yellow in winter, 
at which season it is 
unquestionably the bright- 
est of golden - coloured 
Conifers. An open situ- 
ation should be afforded it, 
and a dry rather than a 
moist soil suits it best. 
P. s. fastigiata (Fig. 324) 
is conspicuous for its 
Lombardy Poplar - like 
habit, and is worthy of 
recognition. P. s. globosa 
is a small, very compact, 
much-branched tree, with 
glaucous leaves, distinct, 
and very slow in growth. 
P. Thujibergi is a Japanese 
species, and rather rare 
in this country. It is a 
vigorous grower, with short, 
stout branches, and stiff 
deep green leaves ; it pre- 
fers a sheltered situation. 
P. T. variegata differs from 
the type in the lower 
portion of its leaves being 
marked with yellow, a 
constant colour which im- 
parts a distinct appearance 
to the tree. 

PoDOCARPUS. — This is 
a large genus, scattered over Australia, China, Japan, Africa, &c. 
The majority of the species are, however, not sufficiently hardy 
to withstand the open air in this country. They succeed best 
in a moist, loamy soil, but water should not become stagnant 
at the roots. A position screened from east winds should, if 
possible, be selected. Those species here mentioned are the 
hardiest and most serviceable for the garden. 

P. alpina, a Tasmanian shrub of humble growth, is very 
rare in this country, even in good collections of Conifers. Its 




Fig. 323. — PiNus Pinea. 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



hardiness is beyond question, and by reason of its dwarf habit 
it should be planted in front of taller-growing shrubs or, better 

still, in the rock garden, where its 
trailing growths, often 3ft. in length, 
and clothed with small, linear, deep 
green leaves, having a glaucous hue 
beneath, present quite a cheerful 
appearance, even in winter. When 
the main growth is supported by 
a stake it rises to a height of 
several feet. 

P. chilina^ introduced from the 
Andes of Chili in 1853, forms a 
loose, much-branched, free-growing, 
small tree. Its long branches are 
clothed with narrow shining green 
leaves, glaucous below. A useful 
species for planting on the outskirts 
of the lawn, as it is quite distinct, 
ornamental, and thoroughly hardy. 

Prumnopitys elegans. — Al- 
though this distinct-looking Conifer 
has been cultivated here for about 
forty years it seems to have been 
planted sparingly. It was dis- 
covered on the Andes of Valdivia, 
Southern Chili, at an elevation of 
5000ft., where it grows to a height 
of 40ft., but in England it is not 
much more than a large bush or 
small tree of dense pyramidal habit. 
A well-drained, loamy soil, to which 
has been added a quantity of good 
leaf-mould, and a sheltered position, 
suits it admirably, and in such a 
situation it makes a magnificent 
specimen. 

PSEUDOLARIX KyEMPFERI {LariX 

Kcempferi) (Fig. 325), the Golden 
Larch, was discovered by Mr. Fortune 
in North China, in 1848. Besides 
being distinct and thoroughly hardy, 
it is of great value for the pleasure- 
ground. It is of rather slow growth 
and pyramidal habit. Its horizontal, 
spreading, fan-shaped branches are clothed in spring and early 
summer with soft yellow leaves, which towards autumn assume 




Fig. 



324. — PiNUS SYLVESTRIS 
FASTIGIATA. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



a beautiful shade of yellow, deepening to bronzy-brown before 
they fall. This species is also attractive in winter on account 
of the brownish-coloured bark of the young shoots, which at that 
season are seen to excellent advantage. 

The Golden Larch cannot be depended upon to reproduce 
itself from seed. The usual method of propagating it is by 
grafting in early February on stocks of the Common Larch 
(Z. europ(Ba). Select young, well-ripened scions, about the thickness 
of a lead-pencil. After they have been secured to the stock, 
place them in a moderately warm case, and when a union has 
taken place, remove to more airy quarters. 

PsEUDOTSUGA DouGLASii {Abies Douglasii^ Picea Donglasii, 
Tsuga Douglasii). — 
Few Conifers are better 
known or more exten- 
sively planted than the 
Douglas Fir, intro- 
duced to this country 
from North America, 
in 1827. It is a 
splendid tree for the 
park and landscape, 
but shelter from east 
winds is advisable. 
It is of rapid growth, 
and forms a pyra- 
midal tree, varying in 
height according to 
soil and position. The 
branches are hori- 
zontal, and the small 
branchlets are supplied with rich 
green leaves. Its pendulous and 
attractive cones (about 3in. long) 
are borne freely on medium-sized 
trees. P. D. brevifolia bears some 
resemblance to the Silver Firs, and 
is worthy of extended culture ; it 
is of pyramidal habit, and of slow 
growth, with polished green leaves. 
P. D. glaiica is a pretty variety, 
of close, compact habit, and with 
beautiful glaucous leaves ; it grows 
freely, keeps its colour well, and 
is thoroughly hardy. P. D. pumila 

(Colorado variety) is a distinct variety of neat, compact growth. 
Where low-growing Conifers are required, this one should find 
a home. P. D. Stairii, which originated at Castle Kennedy, 




Fig. 325. — PSEUDOLARIX 
KiEMPFERI. 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the Scottish seat of Earl Stairs, is a show)-, free-growing variety, 
but less vigorous than the type. In spring the leaves are nearly 
white, and as summer advances they gradually change to a pale 
green hue ; a distinct and beautiful lawn tree. P. D. taxifolia 
is a handsome variety, with rather short upright branches, the 
branchlets being clothed with rich green leaves ; it is a sturdy 
grower, and is suitable for positions where the lofty-growing t5'pe 
would be inadmissible. 

Retinosporas. — See Cupressus. 

SciADOPiTYS VERTiciLLATA (Umbrella or Parasol Pine). — 
This is one of the handsomest and most distinct of Japanese 
Conifers (Fig. 326). The first plant received in this country 
came from Japan, in 1853, but it was so weakly that 
it soon died. About eight years later a quantity of seeds 
were sent to Messrs. Veitch, of Chelsea, and these 
germinated and grew into beautiful plants. In its natural 
habitat it grows to a height of 80ft., but in this country 
few specimens are as yet above 20ft. high. It is thoroughly 
hardy, but dislikes cold winds, especially when growth is 
tender. This species is somewhat slow in growdi, and 
delights in peaty soil, with which is incorporated a quantity 
of leaf-mould. An eastern exposure should be avoided, but the 
greatest drawback to its successful culture is a cold, wet. badly- 
drained soil, as anything like stagnation at the roots is fatal to 
it. As it does not transplant well, great care should be taken 
in the preparation. A good ball of earth should be attached 
to the roots, and the latter protected from drying winds by 
placing mats or similar material round the ball. After planting 
is completed, water should be given to settle the soil about the 
roots, and an occasional damping overhead ts-ill induce healthy 
growth. A yearly top-dressing of leaf-mould will increase the 
vigour of the plants. S. vei-ticillata is well adapted for planting 
as single specimens on the lawn, and is serviceable for all kinds 
of decorative work. It forms a bold, symmetrical specimen, with 
horizontal, spreading branches, and long, narrow, leathery leaves of 
the deepest green, produced in whorls of from thirty to forty at 
the tips of the growths, and bearing some resemblance to an 
open umbrella ; hence the popular name. 

Sequoia ( Wellingtonia) gigantea. — This, the tallest tree suit- 
able for outdoor culture in these isles, has become well known, 
and bears the appropriate name of Mammoth Tree, on account of 
the great size which it attains. The Californian Wellingtonia forests 
are amongst the most imposing in the world. There 6'. gigantea 
towers to a height of upwards of 360ft. It is a handsome tree 
for the park, and delights in a good deep loam, thoroughly well 
drained, and in a situation open yet shielded from piercing winds 
and spring frosts. S. gigantea never makes satisfactory progress 




Fig. 326. — SciADOPiTYS vertictllata. 



2 L 



I 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



when planted near the drip of trees, or on cold, wet soil, and 
cannot be recommended for planting in towns, as it dislikes a 
smoky atmosphere. It is of conical outline, with a straight trunk, 
rather short branches, and small, spirally-arranged, scale-like, 
glaucous leaves, and as the young growths are decidedly glaucous, 
its beauty is much enhanced. The Mammoth tree is best pro- 
pagated from seeds, as plants raised from cuttings do not make 
such good leaders as those raised from seeds. S. g. aiirea is 
not so vigorous as the type, and as the yellow variegation is not 
constant, it cannot be recommended for general planting. 

S. sempervirens (^Taxodium sempervirens) (Fig. 327). — This is the 
Californian Redwood, and as regards size 
ranks next to S. gigantea. Its erect trunk 
covered with brownish-red bark, and its 
rather long, drooping branches, with flat 
deep green leaves, are both distinct and 
pleasing. It has the somewhat objection- 
able habit of growing rather late in the 
season, consequently the 
young growths are some- 
times unable to withstand 
early sharp frosts ; it is of 
fairly rapid growth in most 
soils, and forms a charm- 
mg tree of pyramidal habit 
for the park. S. s. albo- 
spica, though not so free 
in growth as the type, 
is distinct ; it is of more compact habit, 
and has glaucous leaves ; the young 
branchlets, as well as a proportion of the 
leaves, are speckled with creamy-white. 
S. s. gracilis differs from the foregoing in 
its more elegant and compact habit, the 
branches being horizontal, with numerous 
drooping branchlets and rich green leaves ; 
it is very distinct, and a,, beautiful tree for 
the lawn. 

Taxodium distichum {Cupressus distichd). 
— This is a lofty North American tree, and well known as the 
Deciduous Cypress. It has a straight trunk, and slender, feathery 
branches, clothed with soft green leaves, which towards autumn 
assume a dull red shade, and at that season the tree is very pic- 
turesque. The highly-coloured bark imparts a distinct appear- 
ance, even in winter. The Deciduous Cypress is quite hardy, 
rather slow in growth, and delights in a cool, moist soil. It is 
admirably adapted for planting by the margins of lakes and 
streams, but shelter from cold winds should be afforded. 




Fig. 327.— Sequoia 
sempervirens 

VAR. 



5i6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Taxus baccata (English Yew) (Fig, 328) is familiar to everyone. 
Thoroughly hardy, and distinct from all other trees, it is too 
well known to need more than passing reference. Some of its 
varieties are, however, far from familiar, and attention will 
be drawn to a few of the most distinct and meritorious. 
T. b. adpressa is of compact growth, with spreading branches 
and dark green leaves ; it is very ornamental and useful for 
small gardens. T. b. a. variegata is a prettily-marked variety of 
much merit, and worthy of extended culture ; the variegation is 
constant. T. b. albo-variegata is of satisfactory grow^th ; the silver- 
edged leaves are touched with yellow in winter, at which 
season it is very attractive, and adds colour to the shrubbery. 



Yew. T. b. elegaiitissima is a showy variety for the garden, 
of free growth, and neat, compact habit, and its leaves are 
distinctly edged with cream-white ; it keeps its colour well even 
when planted in partial shade. T. b. erecta {T. b. empetrifolid) 
should be represented where the type would be inadmissible on 
account of its widely-spreading branches ; it is compact and 
upright in growth, free, and quite distinct. T. b, ericoides 
(Heath-like Yew) is erect, neat, and valuable for the rock 
garden ; its stem is covered with brownish-red bark, and 
the leaves are very small and deep green. T. b. fastigiata 
(Irish Yew) is conspicuous for its upright, close habit of growth ; 




Fig. 328. — Taxus baccata. 

(Fruit and Flower in different stages.) 



T. b. a?'gejitea is variable 
in the colour of its foli- 
age, and should always 
be planted in an open 
spot to bring out its true 
leaf colour. T. b. aiirea 
is an attractive variety, 
of compact, pyramidal 
habit, and is easily 
grown ; it possesses, too, 
golden-coloured leaves, 
and the tips of the 
branchlets are stained 
with yellow. This is a 
fine plant to brighten 
the shrubbery during 
winter, and is useful also 
for winter-beddinc^ and 
window - boxes. T. b. 
cheshujttensis forms a 
distinct and pleasing 
variety of erect growth, 
with short glossy green 
leaves ; it is freer in 
growth than the Irish 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



it is useful for gardens of limited size, and is pleasing when 
planted by the side of walks. T. b.f. argentea is similar in habit 
to the last-named, but its leaves are striped with creamy-white, 
which colour deepens with age. T. b.f. aiirea, also of close habit, 
has a portion of its leaves and growths marked with golden- 
yellow. T. b. frudu-luteo is an attractive variety on account of its 
fruit, which is yellow, whereas in the type it is red, thus affording 
a welcome change. T. b. glauca differs from the type in the 
under-sides of the leaves being of a glaucous hue ; it is a vigorous 
form, T. b. nana is a dwarf variety, well adapted for the rock 
garden ; it is of compact and rather spreading dense growth, 
with glossy green leaves. T, b pyraniidalis is a very ornamental 
variety, differing from the type in being more compact and erect 
in growth. T. b. IVashingtoni is a beautiful variegated form, free 
in growth, and its leaf-colouring is constant. T. cuspidata is 
handsome, vigorous, and spreading, with deep green leaves. It 
is serviceable for lawns. 

Thuya. — In the Thuya genus are now included Thuyopsis 
dolabrata and Biota of gardens, and they form an important 
section, suitable alike for small and large gardens. They are 
natives of North America, China, and Japan, perfectly hardy, 
easily accommodated, and differ much in habit, size, and leaf- 
colour. 

T. dolabrata {Thuyopsis dolabrata) is a distinct Japanese tree, 
admirably adapted for planting on lawns. It is of pyramidal, 
bushy habit, and whilst young is of rather slow growth. The 
flat, scale-like leaves are bright green above and glaucous beneath. 
This species is well suited for small gardens, also for growing in 
pots or tubs for placing in corridors, &c. It delights in a moist, 
well-drained soil and shady position beyond the influence of 
cold winds. T. d. variegata is a pretty variegated form, distinct, 
and of good growth. 

T. gigantea {T. Lobbi, T. Me7tziesii), introduced from North 
America nearly fifty years ago, has been used extensively by the 
landscape gardener. It is of rapid growth, and very ornamental, 
with a trunk as straight as an arrow, furnished with numerous 
short branches down to the ground. In proportion to its height 
the branches are very short, giving it a compact, close habit, and 
adapting it to gardens of limited extent. T g. compacta is a 
very handsome Conifer, and as its varietal name indicates, is of 
compact growth. T. g. plicata ( T. occidentalis plicata) is similar 
in habit to the type, buc not so vigorous and more bushy. It is 
of great decorative value, and thrives in poor soils and exposed 
situations. T. g. p. lutea is of excellent habit, free in growth, and 
by reason of the rich yellow tint of its foliage, is worthy of 
recognition. It is very attractive in winter. 

T. japonica {T. Standishii, Thuyopsis Standishii), one of the 
most ornamental of Thuyas, should be represented in gardens 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



where hardy Conifers are admired. It is vigorous in growth, 
with horizontal branches, pendulous branchlets, and brownish- 
yellow leaves which become bronze-tinted in winter. The brown- 
coloured stem is also conspicuous in winter. 

T. occidentalis (American Arbor Vitae). — Although this cannot 
be called an ornamental tree of the first water, it is useful for 
hedges, and its green foliage is tinted with brown in winter ; it 
is of rather irregular growth, and forms a medium-sized tree in 
moist soils. T. occ. aurea is the best of the golden-leaved 
Thuyas, and is valuable for giving colour to the shrubbery; it 
makes a beautiful lawn tree, and its golden-coloured foliage is 
touched with bronze in winter. T. occ. Dicksoni is of pyramidal 
habit, rather sparsely branched, and free in growth ; in spring and 
summer its leaves are rich green, and in winter they are stained 
with bronzy-yellow. T. occ. Ellwangeriana is of all the close- 
habited Thuyas perhaps the most useful and graceful. It is 
of dense dwarf habit, with numerous slender branches of upright 
tendency, feathery branchlets, and scale-like leaves ; good for 
lawns and small gardens. T. occ. ej^ecta viridis is bushy, much- 
branched, neat in growth, and very distinct. T. occ. globosa 
compacta is more vigorous than JEIkvange?'iafia, but less graceful ; 
it is, however, compact and ornamental. T. occ. Ifoveii, though 
of rather irregular habit, is entitled to the planters considera- 
tion, its numerous branches and flat branchlets being clothed 
with rich green foliage. T. occ. Vervaeneana has not been 
planted extensively, although very attractive, and well adapted 
for the lawn ; it is of elegant growth, and its yellowish leaves 
are touched with bronzy-yellow in winter. T. occ. Warea?ia 
( T. caucasica) is vigorous, compact, and superior to the type ; 
its short horizontal branches are clothed with deep green leaves, 
and its sub-variety, lutea., a yellow-leaved form, is effective too. 

T. orieutalis {Biota orientalis) (Fig. 329), the well-known Chinese 
Arbor Vitse, is a native of Japan, as well as of the northern 
regions of China, and was introduced into England about 150 
years ago. It is a useful and free-growing. Conifer, quite hardy, 
and thrives well in ordinary soil, provided suitable drainage is 
provided. It forms a dwarf tree, upwards of 20ft. high, of 
pyramidal dense habit, and, from an ornamental point of view, is 
much superior to the American Arbor Vitae, Thuya occidentalis. 
The following are some of the most distinct and handsome 
varieties : T. or. argeiiteo-variegata is conspicuous for its silver 
variegation, but, in order to preserve its true character, it should 
have a sunny spot, as when planted in the shade the variegation 
is apt to disappear. T. or. aurea {T. aurea, T. compacta aurea) is 
a chaVming shrub of dwarf, dense habit, the young growths 
being wholly yellow, which gradually changes to a greenish tinge 
with age. T. or. aureo-variegata is of Continental origin, and a 
taller grower than the last-named, with slender branchlets, the 



Fig. 329. — Thuya orientalis. 



ON TREES AND SHRUBS. 



leaves of which are pale yellow. T. or. compada vs, a distinct^ and 
pleasing variety of dwarf habit, and its bright green leaves give 
it a cheerful appearance even in the depth of winter. T. or. 
'elega7itissiina is another beautiful variety, of erect, compact habit, 
with yellow foliage. This variety originated in a bed of seedlings 
at the Tooting nursery of the once famous nurserymen, Messrs. 
Rollinson. T. or. ericoides {^Retinospora ericoides) is a gem 
amongst rock-garden Conifers, as it presents an attractive 
appearance at all seasons of the year ; in spring the leaves are 
tender green, and towards autumn they change to a brownish- 
violet shade. It forms a conical shrub rarely exceeding 3ft. 
high, and the short branchlets are crowded with narrow leaves, 
glaucous on the under-sides ; an excellent sort for winter 
bedding. T. or. falcata varies in height from 8ft. to T2ft., is 
quite distinct, and deserving of extended culture. T. or. gracilis 
is noteworthy on account of its slender, elegant growths, com- 
pact habit, and free growth. T. or. meidensis l^Retinospora mel- 
densis)^ a supposed hybrid between the Virginian Red Cedar and 
the Chinese Arbor Vitse, is of loose, pyramidal habit, the slender 
branches being clothed with short glaucous green leaves, which 
in autumn assume a brownish-red, and retain that colour until 
spring. It is not, however, sufficiently ornamental to be recom- 
mended for general planting. T. or. fninima deserves a place 
in the rock garden. It forms a dense, low bush, and its bronzy 
foliage is attractive in winter. T. or. semperaurescens^ of French 
origin, is unquestionably the most distinct golden-leaved Thuya, 
and one of the most useful of its class for the garden, forming 
a neat, globular bush. It is well adapted for winter-bedding, 
and useful for window-boxes, as well as for pot culture for 
winter decoration. 

TsuGAS (Hemlock Firs). — These form a small group of about 
six species of Conifers, of much value for decorative planting. 
North America is the headquarters of the family, and they are 
all of elegant growth, hardy, and delight in moist soil and an 
open situation, but the position must be sheltered from east 
winds. They are splendid lawn trees, and should be more 
frequently planted. 

T. Briinoniana {Abies Brunoniana, A. diwtosd), from the 
central portion of the Himalayas, cannot, unfortunately, be 
recommended for general culture in the British Isles, but in the 
South of England it makes a really handsome specimen. It 
forms a dense bush or small tree, with elegant drooping branches, 
and when bearing its small-pointed, glaucous-coloured cones, 
is an object of great beauty. T. canadensis {Abies canadensis), 
a well-known member of the family, is a beautiful decorative 
tree, thoroughly hardy, and of excellent habit. Its slender 
branches and drooping branchlets are clothed with light green 
leaves, glaucous on the under-sides. The attractive cones are 



522 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



small and borne abundantly. T. c. albo-spica is a showy variety 
with variegated foliage, distinct, free in growth, and of more 
bushy habit than the type. The leaves are pale green and 
creamy-white, and in winter are tinged with violet ; a gem for 
the lawn. T. c. miifordeiisis is a compact variety, dwarf, and 
very attractive. T. caroliniana {Abies caroliniand) is of bushy, 
pyramidal habit, free in grow^th, and distinct from T. canadensis 
by reason of its stouter branches, deep glossy green leaves, and 
larger cones. In North Carolma it growls to a height of 50ft. 
T. Merte7isiana (^Abies Albertiana) is an elegant, hardy Conifer, 
of pyramidal habit, more rapid and vigorous in growth than 
T. canadensis. Its long spreading branches and feathery branch! ets 
are clothed with small deep green leaves, and it is very attrac- 
tive when bearing its numerous small cones. T. Pattoniana 
{Abies Pattoniana, A. VVilliamsonii) is very beautiful, and well 
adapted for planting on lawns. Its trunk is erect, its branches 
are short and horizontal, and its small branchlets clothed with 
light green leaves. T. P. glaiica is a handsome variety, and 
differs from the type in its more drooping branches and 
lovely glaucous leaves. This is also a beautiful law^n tree. 
T. Sieboldi {Abies Tsiiga, Tsuga divers if olia), the Japanese 
Hemlock Fir, is an excellent sort for planting on the fringe of 
the lawn as well as in small gardens. It is of pyramidal habit 
and neat growth, its spreading, fan-shaped branches being w-ell 
clothed with short grass-green leaves, glaucous on their under- 
surface. Both distinct and pleasing in appearance. 

Wellingtonia gigantea. — See Sequoia giganiea. 




Pixus 



SYLVESTRIS. 




Although the present work is essentially devoted to the prac- 
tical part of gardening, it may not be out of place to remind 
readers that, from the numerous interesting scientific discoveries 
for which the present century is justly famous, it is certain that 
Ferns and Lycopods formed the earliest vegetation of our Globe. 
It has been proved beyond doubt that the formation of coal, 
during the carboniferous period, was unquestionably due to the 
existence of Ferns and Lycopods, which, in those days, attamed 
really gigantic dimensions, since well-preserved fossil specimens 
of these plants, measuring QSft. in height and 30ft. in cir- 
cumference, have been found in various collieries here and on 
the Continent. The Equisetums, or " Horsetails," of the present 
day found in this country are but diminutive representatives of 
another genus of flowerless gigantic trees which greatly helped the 
ormation of the combustible materials, bituminous coal and 
anthracite. Correvon, in his interesting dissertation, " Les 
Fougeres dans les Ages Geologiques," tells us that in coal-mines 
and in slate-quarries over 900 fossil species of Ferns, divided 
into more than 160 genera, have already been collected and 
determined. The species in existence then have all disappeared, 
and have been replaced by plants more modest in appearance 
and of smaller dimensions which, although deprived of the gor- 
geous colours particular to flowering plants, have, so far as grace, 



524 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



elegance, and diversity of form are concerned, no equal in any 
other portion of the Vegetable Kingdom. 

One of the most striking points in connection with the history 
and the existence of Ferns all over the Globe, and one which, 
in artificial cultivation, deserves to be taken in consideration, is the 
extremely wide range of their geographical distribution. We know 
of no other order of plants the representatives of which are found 
in such varied positions and dissimilar aspects, or which show 
such different habits of growth. From the Tropics, where they 
exist in profusion, to the Arctic regions, as far north as Greenland, 
Ferns are found in greater or less quantities, some at an altitude 
varying from io,oooft. to 12,000ft., and others at the sea-level, 
which knowledge actually indicates that in artificial culture while 
certain kinds are perfectly hardy in this country, others require 
the protection of the warm house. In their native habitats, cer- 
tain exotic species affect the most exposed and sunny situations, 
much in the same way as the Scale Fern {Ceferach ojfichiamm\ 
the Maidenhair Spleen wort {Aspletiium Tricko?nanes), and the 
Wall Rue {Aspieniu77i Ruta-murarid) do in this country. Others 
only thrive under the influence of dense shade ; while others, 
again, require constant moisture at the roots, with their heads in 
full exposure to the action of the light, just as is the case 
with some of our common British species. 

Geographical Distribution. — Another important feature in 
connection with Ferns in general is the singularly cosmopolitan 
character possessed by certain kinds which, though generally 
given and accepted as being of British origin, are also found 
wild in various, and, in some cases, in very distant' parts of the 
Globe. Thus, for instance, most of our Spleenworts, or 
Aspleniums, are also found throughout the European Continent, 
Northern Asia, North and South Africa, in North America, in 
various parts of India, &c. The same may also be said of 
our common Maidenhair Fern (yAdiantiim Capillus - Veneris), 
which is found wild nearly all over the world. Even our own 
Royal Fern {Osniunda regalis) is found growing plentifully on the 
banks of rivers and streams on the Neilgherries and other 
high mountains in India, while the common Shield Ferns, Poly- 
stichum angulare, Lastrea spinulosa, and others, are also natives 
of many parts of India and of North America ; and another 
example of the cosmopolitan character of Ferns is well shown 
in the delightful violet-scented, small-growing Lastrea fragrans, 
which, although originally introduced into this country from 
North America, is found to be abundant on some of the Japanese 
mountains. 



ON FERNS. 



It is remarkable also that, to a certain extent, each country 
appears to produce Ferns forming natural special sections. Thus, 
for instance, we find that North America supplies us with 
species mostly of a deciduous character, from the tiny-growing 
Pellcea Breweri to the gigantic Struthiopteris pe?i?2syivaiiica, Ono- 
dea sensibilis, Adia?ituni pedahim (Fig. 330), various Osinunda^ 
Dicksonia piinciilobula^ and Woodsia areolata. It is from Japan 
that, on the contrary, the greatest part of the hardy and semi- 
hardy evergreen kinds are native. We note among the most 




Fig. 330. — Adiantum pedatum. 



popular species known such general favourites as Cyrtomhim 
falcatum and C. anomophyllwii, Lastrea atrafa, L. opaca, Poly- 
stichinn setosuin, and P. Tsus-Simense^ all of which are not only 
evergreen, but have a peculiarly glossy appearance and leathery 
texture — characters which are shared by very few of our native 
Ferns and by scarcely any other exotic kinds. 

Tree-Ferns found in the East and West Indies and South 
America are, with a few exceptions, conspicuous by their com- 
paratively slender stems, whereas those, or most of those native 



526 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



//I 



of New Zealand, Australia, and Tasmania, have stems of a com- 
paratively thick nature, such as those of the deservedly-popular 
Dicksonia antai'ctica, of the Silver Tree-Fern, Cyathea deal- 

bafa, C. medullaris 
(Fig. 331), and a few 
others. 

It is worthy of 
notice that the power 
of producing crested, 
depauperated, and 
other characters 
peculiar to forms of 
original species, 
either of a deciduous 
or of an evergreen 
nature, is much more 
developed among 
, Ferns growing spon- 
''"^ taneously in England 
than among those 
found in any other 
country, as it is a 
fact that scarcely a 
single species of 
Fern native of the 
British Isles has 
retained its normal 
characters through- 
out : all have be- 
come more or less 
addicted to varia- 
tions. That power 
of producing variable 
forms, either due to 
the influence of the 
atmosphere or to 

other causes, can hardly be ascribed to the effects of cultivation, 
as most of the crested, undulated, multifid, and other forms of 
Lastrea Filix-mas^ Athyriiiin Filix-fcEinina^ Polypodiiaii vulgare, 
Polystichiini a7igulare, and Scolopendriiim vulgare have usually 
been met with in a wild state in some part or other of the 
United Kingdom. Even the production of the crested forms 
of exotic species, such as Adiantums, Gymnogrammes, and 
Pteris may be said to be a monopoly of this country. 

Variety in Ferns from a Decorative Point of View. — 
Like any other order of plants Ferns have their pigmies as well as 
their giants, but the differences as regards dimensions are much 
more marked in them than in most if not in all others. While 




Fig. 331. — Cyathea medullaris. 



ON FERNS. 



some of the gigantic Tree-Ferns attain some 50ft. in height, others 
seldom exceed a few inches ; and, as regards the fronds themselves, 
although in the case of certain Polypodiums, Trichomanes, and 
others, these organs are only an inch or even less, in others they 
reach fully 15ft. in length. Again, some kinds affect a bushy and 
symmetrical form, v/hereas others are provided with rhizomes or 
stems which naturally grow many yards in length, twining round 
other plants or climbing to the top of tall trees. 

Although in the majority of cases their foliage is of a uniform 
green colour, yet either in the course of development, or when fully 
matured, their 

fronds, in some \ 
cases entire, and " ■ 

in others more 
or less finely 
divided, exhibit a 
most extensive 
variety of shades, 
ranging from the 
dark colour pecu- 
liar to the Hard 
Fern, Blechjiuin 
Spicanf, or to the 
Soft Prickly Shield 
Fern, Polystichum 
angulaj-e, to the 
soft pea-green tint 
of our common 
Oak Fern, Polypo- 
dium Dryopteris^ 
or the lovely 
Adiantum trapezi- 
forme (Fig. 332). 
Others, like the 
common Poly- 
podium aiireum^ a 
deservedly popu- 
lar, strong-growing 
kind, or the small, 
dwarf - growing 
P. glaucophylluni, 
retain all through 
their existence a 
reminds one of 




Fro. 332. — Adiantum trapeziforme. 



most pleasing bluish tint which forcibly 
the foliage of Eucalyptus globulus. Others, 
again, although quite green when mature are, during their 
development, of most brilliant bronzy or metallic tints. This 
peculiar character is particularly noticeable among the Adiantums, 
some of which, like A. Veitchii, rubellu?n, tiHctu7?i, macrophylluin, 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and others, are endowed with most gorgeous hues, turning from 
a dehcate pink to a bright magenta, and finally changing to a 
glaucous green tint of exquisite softness, before assuming the 
uniform and permanent green colour which they retain to the 
end of their existence. The same changes of colours also apply 

to Blech7mm occi- 
d e n t a I D o o di a 
media, diud D. aspera 
midtifida (Fig. 333), 
to the strikins; Didv- 
inochlcz?ia iruncatula, 
the ever - charming 
d w a r f - g r o w i n g 
Loinaria L Herini- 
nieri, the handsome,, 
large - growing 
Davallia polyantha, 
and many other 
species of small or 
large habit. To those 
who might object 
that the variations 
in colour above re- 
ferred to only belong 
to the early part of 
the vegetation of the 
plants, it may be 
answered that, as 
Ferns of an ever- 
green nature are 
growing nearly all 
the year round, the 
objection is not of great consequence, as there is always a 
variety of colour to be seen and admired wherever a certain 
quantity of these plants are grown. 

Cultivation. — For their cultivation. Ferns may be divided into 
two sections, viz., the hardy kinds, which, in this country succeed 
best when grown' out of doors, and the exotic kinds, which 
require glass protection. Their habits and modes of growth are 
so varied, affecting as they do, in their natural state, so many 
different positions, that their successful treatment depends in a 
great measure upon the imitation of their natural conditions. 
For instance, the species having an upright or slowly-creeping 
stem, usually sending their roots further down than others, and 
therefore requiring a greater depth of soil, are best adapted for 
pot culture. The species which are provided with rhizomes, 
and also with stolons, require to be grown either in pans or on 
rockwork, or, again, on dead Tree-Fern stems, or in hanging baskets. 




ON FERNS. 



As a general rule, with the exception of comparatively few 
kinds which prefer exposed and airy situations, we find that 
in their native habitats the majority of Ferns are found forming 
a sort of undergrowth in woods and forests, clinging to the sides 
of rocks, or again growing by the sides of brooks or rivers, but 
usually under trees, which shelter them from the violence of 
strong winds, and also protect them from the action of the 
strong rays of the sun. The influence of this protecting 
agency is such that when the same kinds are found growing 
accidentally in positions exposed to the direct action of the 
elements, they hardly appear to be the same plants. It is 
evident, therefore, that whether Ferns are grown in pots or in 
the open ground, these natural conditions should, as far as 
possible, be imitated. 

According to the requirements, or to the taste of the grower, 
most, if not all. Ferns, hardy or exotic, may be grown with equal 
success either in pots or when planted out ; but, whenever con- 
venient, the latter way is by far the more satisfactory, inasmuch 
as it gives a much greater scope for effect. Moreover, when 
once put in the places which they are intended to occupy. Ferns 
require a great deal less attention than when grown in pots. 

Hardy Fernery. — As Mr. J. Birkenhead, in his excellent 
popular work, " Ferns and Fern Culture," judiciously remarks, 
" Hardy Ferns are easy to manage — in fact, there are no other 
plants so easy of culture, and certainly none which present so 
large a variety of graceful habit and curious forms." It may 
not be out of place to remark here that there are many places 
in gardens where flowering plants cannot live, and these are well 
adapted for the cultivation of Ferns, which convert uninteresting 
spots into a source of pleasure. Whenever practicable, the hardy 
fernery should be situated in a naturally moist and cool spot, 
and, strong light being in most cases objectionable, the 
neighbourhood of tall, deciduous trees should have preference 
■over all other places, as in this case the plants would be little 
exposed to the sun, and protected from strong winds. A 
position with a north aspect is the one most suitable, the plants 
having then a maximum of light without being spoilt by the 
sun. The hardy fernery should be constructed of stone, in 
the form of rockwork, either on the level ground or as a 
ravine, excavated to a greater or less depth. In whatever 
form the fernery is arranged, drainage is of the utmost import- 
ance, and should be provided for the ready escape of surplus 
moisture. It should be borne in mind that, in the formation of 
the outdoor fernery, it is most essential to study the require- 
ments and comfort of the plants in preference to showing the 
building of the rockwork, and to provide against the disastrous 
effects of the high winds, which are injurious to all Ferns. 
Besides the friendly shelter of neighbouring trees, as stated 

2 M 



530 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



elsewhere, the tenderest kinds may also be protected by the 
judicious grouping of the more robust sorts, which, when planted 
in masses, considerably help in procuring the comfort necessary 
to the well-being of the smaller and more delicate species. 

In planting the hardy fernery, the distribution of the 
evergreen and of the naturally deciduous species should be care- 
fully considered, and the plants disposed in such a way as to 
avoid at any time a bare appearance, and allow the whole place 
to remain covered with foliage during the resting season. The 
introduction of North American and certain Japanese Ferns, which 
have proved quite hardy under our climate, has materially added 
to the great diversity of size and habit as represented by the 
British species and their numerous varieties. The plantation of 
the hardy fernery may safely take place at any time from October 
to March ; but if it is tolerably sheltered it is preferable to plant 
in autumn, as root-action in most hardy Ferns commences long 
before there are any visible signs of vegetation, and in that case, 
the plants moved in the autumn will, if kept sufficiently moist 
during the winter, make a quantity of fresh roots, upon which 
the new growth is mostly dependent. If, however, the place 
where the hardy fernery is situated is exposed, it is preferable to 
plant only in the spring, and just before vegetation commences, 
say about the end of March, as the plants are then full of 
vigour, the ascension of sap enabling them to take every 
advantage of the new soil, the nutritive properties of which are 
readily assimilated by the roots. Special attention to the nature 
of the plants employed in the plantation of the hardy fernery is 
indispensable, and of much greater consequence than the 
preparation of the compost or material in which the plants are 
to grow, and which, for general purposes, consists of two parts of 
fibrous loam, one part of half-decayed leaf-mould, and one part 
of coarse silver-sand. 

In the following list an endeavour has been made to place in 
their respective positions the British and the hardy exotic Ferns, 
according to their dimensions, and it is hoped that it will serve 
as a guide to amateurs intending to plant a collection of Ferns 
out of doors. With a view to insuring to each plant a position 
suitable to its requirements, we have marked with an asterisk (■^) 
the kinds requiring more than ordinary moisture at the roots, 
and with a dagger (t) those kinds which prefer a somewhat 
exposed and airy situation ; all others thrive m naturally shady 
and moist places, as previously stated. 

Dwarf species and varieties growing from 4in. to i2in. high : 
Allosoriis crispiis and A. acrostichoides ; the various Spleenworts, 
such as Asplenium Adiantum-nigriun^ ebejtum^ foiitanuni (Fig. 334)*, 
lanceolatum^ Ruta-niiwaria^, Trichomanes^^ viride ; several prettily- 
crested forms of the Lady Fern, Athyriinn Filix-foeinina : 
Blechiuiui Spicant ; Ceterach officinariun (Fig. 335) 1/ Cystopteris 



/ 



ON FERNS. 



fragiHs, Dickieaiia, and montana^ ; a few varieties of the Male 
Fern, Lastrea Filix-mas ; Lomaria alpma ; the Oak, Beech, 
and Limestone Polypodies, Polypodium Dryopteris (Fig. 336), 
Phegopieris, and cal- 
careum ; Polypodium 
vulgar e\ and varie- 
ties ; several hand- 
some forms of Poly- 
sttchiwi, including 
the Holly Fern, P. 
Lonckitis ; numerous 
forms of the common 
Hartstongue, Scolo- 
t>eudriiiin znilgare^ ; 
and Woodsia 
bella^ ilvensis, 
obtusa. 

Among the 
i2in. to 24in. 
tum\ and A 



gla- 
and 




Fig. 334.— Asplenium fontanum. 



medium-sized species and varieties, growing from 
in height we particularly note : Aspidiuni crista- 
noveboracense ; Dickso?iia punctilobiila ; several 
handsome varieties of the Lady Fern, and also of the Male 
Fern ; Lastrea intermedia, niarginale, CB??iula, moiitana\^ Thelyp- 
teris"^ ; the Welsh Polypody, P. cambricum ; and several pretty 
forms of PolysticJmm a?igulare, Scolope?idriiim vulgare^, and 
Woodwardia virginica/" 

The principal and most ornamental species and varieties 
growing 2ft. and upwards are : Athyrium Michauxii and several 
varieties of A. Filix-foemi?ia, such as Howardce, Grajttce, Elworthii, 

plumosian^ seti- 
gerum, todeoides, 
&c. ; Lastrea 
Goldieafia, and 
several varieties 
of L. Filix-mas, 
such as Bollan- 
dice, B arnesii, 
gr andiceps, Ln- 
graviii, li?ieare, 
&c. ; also Lastrea 
dilatata and its 
several crested 
varieties. The 
North American 
Onoclea se?isibilis* 
and Osiminda cin- 

namomea"^ , interntpta* , gracilis''', as well as the British Osmuiida 
regalis and regalis aistata*, are among the most distinct of all 
known Ferns. Very interesting also are Polystichiim munituni 

2 M 2 




Fig. 335.— Ceterach officinarum 



532 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and the beautiful varieties of P. angidare^ such as divisilobuin^ 
7nuItiiobu?}i, proliferum Crawfordianum^ Lomaria chilensis^ Pteris 
aquilina, and Struthiopteris pennsylvajiica*, which grows very 
luxuriantly, and attains a large size when planted in a damp, 
shaded, and sheltered position. 

From the above lists it will be seen that the outdoor natural 
fernery is, or should be, quite as interesting as the warm or cool 

houses devoted 
exclusively to ten- 
der exotic Ferns, 
and that it should 
always form an 
attractive part of 
the garden ; for 
if all Ferns are 
beautiful, some of 
the hardy kinds 
are so cheap as 
to be within the 
purchasingpowers 
of all, while others 
are so scarce as 
to be worthy com- 
panions of all that 
is rich and rare 
among the gems 
of the conserva- 
tory. When a 
hardy fernery is 
once established, 
very little attention is required to keep it in good order. The 
whole work in connection with such a place is limited to 
occasional waterings during the summer, while during the winter 
a slight covering of old leaves or other light material placed over 
the plants will enable the more tender sorts to withstand the 
rigour of our most severe winters. 

Unheated Fernery with Glass Protection. — Besides the 
outdoor plantation, as already described, a very interesting and 
most pleasant fernery (in which all the year round there is a 
certain attraction) may, at very little expense, be erected. It 
should consist of a span-roofed structure, simply provided with 
glass protection, but without any means of heating ; and it is 
surprising to note to what extent, through such a simple con- 
trivance, the plants differ from those grown in the open ground. 
Being protected from the extremes of heat and cold, from 
excessive wet and from draughts, storms, and other injurious 
influences, their foliage acquires a more perfect development, 
and lasts much longer in good condition. Through judicious 




ON FERNS. 



533 



selection, a very good collection of Ferns may be gathered 
together and thrive admirably under these conditions ; and, 
besides the species and varieties already enumerated in the lists 
of the hardy outdoor fernery, such a place may be planted with 
most evergreen kinds native of Japan, Australia, and New 
Zealand ; and in it such British species as Adia?iiu?n Capillus- 
Veneris and varie- 
ties, Asplenium 
ma?'inum, A. lan- 
ceoiatu7?i, and a 
few others which 
seldom give satis- 
faction in the 
open air may be 
grown with perfect 
success. Such a 
house, devoted 
exclusively to cool 
Ferns, may be 
seen at the es- 
tablishment of 
Messrs. J. Veitch 
and Sons, at 
Chelsea. It is 
about 36ft. long 
by 20ft. wide, and, 
although of com- 
paratively small 
dimensions, and 
built for more 
than twenty - five 
years, it is still 
considered one 
of the prettiest 
ferneries now in 
existence. The 
rockery, if such 
term may be em- 
ployed, is built 
entirely of brick- 
burrs, although 
sandstone, tufa, 

or limestone may be used with advantage for the same 
purpose, and have a lighter appearance ; and the comfort of 
the plants, being considered of primary importance, receives 
special attention. The Ferns are disposed in a natural way 
among the rocks, and on the sloping sides, where they enjoy a 
considerable amount of light, and on some little mounds of 




Fig. 337. — Lyg ODIUM scandens. 



534 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



turfy peat, covered with a layer of common green moss, which is 
kept growing, and in which they luxuriate. The welfare of the 
inmates is the natural outcome of a genial atmosphere produced 
by the presence of a comparatively large bulk of soil contained 
in the house when compared with the quantity of brick-burrs or 
stone material. 

It is interesting to note how, in this house, where the temper- 
ature frequently falls several degrees below freezing-point, Ferns 
from nearly all parts of the Globe thrive together ; for, so far 
as health is concerned, there is nothing to choose between 
the Australian and New Zealand Tree-Ferns and Balantuiin 
Culcita and Woodwardia radicans of Madeira which, with the 
various forms of Aspleniums, Cyrtomiums, Lastreas, Pteris, 
Todea arl?07^ea, &c., from Australia, form a most interesting 
group of plants. The Climbing Fern, Lygoduim scandens (Fig. 
337), from Japan, is there in its element and thriving apace. 
The cultivation of Ferns, under these conditions, is as simple as 
it possibly could be : once planted, the only attention necessary 
for the growing season is the watering and the ventilation, while 
the results are very gratifying. 

The Exotic Fernery. — Whether intended for warm house or 
simply for ordinary greenhouse Ferns, this structure, especially 
if it be a span-roofed one, should, in preference, be disposed 
from north to south, so as to avoid the strong rays of the 
mid-day sun, while retaining as much light as possible. If 
it is a lean-to fernery, with a northern or a north-eastern 
aspect, it will require but very little shading, even during the 
summer ; while at other times of the year none will be needed. 
It is a well-recognised fact that Ferns not only can do with an 
abundance of light, but also that it is most beneficial to them. 

Shading. — As a general rule, from the middle of September 
to the middle of March shading will not be required on a 
fernery of any aspect ; in the early part of March, however, the 
atmosphere becomes clearer, and the sun gaining strength, a little 
shading in the middle part of the day soon becomes necessary 
for houses containing stove Ferns and fully exposed to the sun. 
The hardier greenhouse kinds will not require shade till later on, 
and the hardy Ferns not until the beginning of June. In fact 
the rule is to provide at all times the greatest amount of light, 
shading only to prevent sunlight from scorching and bleaching 
the foliage, and to that effect the necessity for shading must 
be determined by the position of the house and the character of 
its inmates. The best and most satisfactory way of shading is 
by means of blinds made of coarse canvas or of other suit- 
able material, which should be of a nature sufficiently open to 
admit plenty of light, and be fastened on rollers, so that when 
the rope is released the blind will roll down, and be rolled up 
again and secured in its place when no longer required, for it is 



ON FERNS. 535 

unwise to weaken the substance of the fronds by subjecting the 
plants to the influence of permanent artificial shading. 

Sometimes, however, the ferneries are so built or so dis- 
posed that it is very difficult to shade them by means of blinds ; 
in such cases permanent shading, with all its drawbacks, must 
be resorted to, as scorching or bleaching must be avoided by 
any possible contrivance. Although most Ferns are naturally 
adverse to strong light, it is now acknowledged that in the 
construction of a fernery the use of ground or rolled glass 
should be avoided. Numerous experiments have been tried "with 
the object of dispensing with shading, when ground-glass had 
been selected as the best means of producing an even and 
diffuse light, but its use in most cases, if not in all, has had to 
be discontinued. When permanent shading must be used, white 
should be selected ; green may produce a heavier shade, but 
this is beneficial only for a small portion of the time the sun is 
on the glass, as at other times it keeps out too much light, even 
when a thin coating only is put on. Cream colour is better 
than green ; but the best is white, for it allows more light to 
penetrate on a wet or dull day, and this is a matter of great 
importance to the health of the plants. Whenever possible, 
the exotic fernery should be below the level of the ground. The 
beauty of the Ferns is seen to best advantage when looked 
down upon ; this disposition also ensures uniformity of tempera- 
ture and permanency of moisture, both conditions most beneficial, 
bat very difficult to obtain or to maintain in houses built above 
ground, especially when, as is generally the case, these structures 
are supplied w^ith shelves and open stages. The exotic fernery 
may be intended for growing Ferns either in pots or when planted 
in the natural way. Preference should be given to the latter mode 
of culture, as a decided advantage in connection with the natural 
fernery is that, when planted in rockwork, Ferns require a great 
deal less attention than when grown in pots, and if provided 
with suitable soil at the outset they will, with the help of an 
occasional surfacing, flourish for years, and attain a size consider- 
ably larger than when grown in pots. Sandstone, tufa, or even 
limestone, may be used for building the rockery, while either 
clinkers or pieces of coke dipped in thin cement are sometimes 
used for that purpose, but they are only poor substitutes for 
stone, as they lack the porosity so beneficial to the well-being of 
the plants. Whenever the fernery is of sufficiently large 
dimensions, the walks should undulate and wind to and fro ; 
they should be made of stone, with rugged steps here and there, 
the stone rising on each side to give the whole a more natural 
appearance. 

Light. — Of whatever dimensions the exotic fernery may be, 
and whatever may be the style adopted for the building of the 
rockery in it, it should be borne in mind that the principal 



536 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



object is to secure, as far as practicable, an equal amount of 
light for all plants, so that the foliage of the Ferns situated in 
the lower parts should be quite as fresh as that of those planted 
above, and this luxuriance should extend to the very margins of 
the walks. Such results can only be obtained by the free 
admission of light in all parts of the fernery, and at all times of 
the year ; therefore, all undue obstruction should be carefully 
avoided. It is for this reason that grottoes, as well as the 
arches and masses of heavy, overhanging rocks, which one is so 
accustomed to see in ferneries, should be carefully dispensed 
with, for, although, to a limited degree, they may be tolerated in 
a large place, the fernery will look better and more natural 
without them. Certainly the Ferns will grow more satisfactorily, 
for, however attractive the effect may be, it is invariably spoilt 
by the sickly appearance of the Ferns planted in nooks deprived 
of the necessary light. Tufa not only has a pleasant appearance, 
but it is also, because of its porous nature, the material best 
adapted for the building of rockeries in an exotic fernery. In 
building the stone together large pockets intended for any large 
growing Ferns may be provided, and these should be so arranged 
that they may be connected with the bulk of the soil on which 
the body of the rockwork is built, so that in course of time 
the roots may find their way undisturbed in the subsoil, 
as the comfort of the plants should on no account be sacri- 
ficed to the appearance of the fernery itself, as is frequently 
the case. 

With the exception of the large pockets recommended for 
gigantic growing plants, it will be found that for the well-being 
of the inmates as much as for the sake of the general appear- 
ance of the place, the Ferns should be planted on the sloping 
sides and on some mounds made of turfy peat securely held 
together by means of wooden skewers and covered with a 
layer of common living moss, which at first must be pegged 
down firmly, but which in such a position rapidly grows 
and binds the whole mass together. When planted in this 
way, which is far more agreeable to the eye, and also more 
beneficial to the plants than the use of pockets, Ferns 
have more freedom of action allowed to their roots, which, 
generally speaking, have a roaming propensity known only 
to those who grow them. No regular pockets having to 
be built, a smaller quantity of stone material is required, 
while a greater bulk of soil generates proportionately a 
greater amount of natural humidity not obtainable from 
stone, however porous it may be. This mode of planting 
also effectually prevents any sourness in the soil through the 
air having free action all over its surface — a condition 
unknown to plants grown in pockets generally, however spacious 
these are. 




WELL-GROWN FERNS. 
In House in Mr. H. B. Jlay's Nursery, Upper Edmonton. 



ON FERNS. 



537 



Soil. — The soil used for planting the exotic fernery should 
be of a specially rough and open nature, and a mixture of fibrous 
loam, leaf-mould, and sand in equal proportions will be found to 
suit the majority of Ferns, whether for the greenhouse or for 
the warm fernery. Where, however, Gymnogrammes, Gleichenias, 
Cheilanthes, Pellseas, Platyceriums, Nothochlsenas, and a few 
other kinds are to be planted, it will be best to add one part of 
peat to the above-named compost. Plants belonging to such 




Fig. 338. — Stenochl^na scandens. 



genera as Davallia, Nephrolepis, StenochlcEna {S. sca?idens^ 
Fig. 338), and Polypodium^ whose 'rhizomes soon take possession 
of the outer surface of the soil, are recommended as being 
especially adapted for planting on mounds, which rapidly 
become covered with foliage, all the more luxuriant in that the 
plants have more room allowed for the extension of the rhizomes 
with which they are provided. These organs, in most cases, 
require to be kept on the surface of the ground, to which they 
should be fastened with wooden pegs at the time of planting ; 
but, as the plants become established, the necessity for pegs 
will soon be dispensed with. 



538 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Temperature. — According to their native habitats. Ferns 
require more or less heat ; and although it is usually understood 
that those coming from the Tropics require stove temperature, 
it is well to point out here that those which are found 
growing naturally high up the mountains, where the temperature 
is much lower than near the sea-level, may be cultivated 
most success in a warm, and, sometimes, in a cool greenhouse. 
A much greater number of Ferns than is generally supposed 
accommodate themselves readily to a comparatively cool treat- 
ment, under the influence of which their growth is less rapid, 
but of greater durability. The minimum night temperature of 
a cool fernery should be 4odeg., which should be increased from 
45deg. to 5odeg. during the day. A gradual and gentle rise 
should take place in the spring, until artificial heat is dispensed 
with for the summer. When, through fluctuation in the 
weather, the temperature is too low in the summer, it is well 
to have a little fire-heat at intervals, and when exceptionally 
hot weather is maintained, the temperature of the cool fernery 
must be kept down by means of water being freely sprinkled on 
the floors, on the walls and rockwork, and even by means 
of extra shading, if it is found to be indispensable. 

The temperature of the warm greenhouse fernery will be 
sufficiently high if kept up at from 45deg. to 5odeg. during the 
night, and from 5odeg. to 6odeg. in the day,' from November 
to March ; it should gradually rise as the days increase in 
length, so that by the end of May it is 6odeg. or 65deg. by 
night, and about yodeg. during the day. It should be gradually 
lowered from September, until it reaches its lowest point again 
in November. When tastefully arranged and planted, nothing 
can be more interesting and enjoyable than such a fernery, 
which is most pleasing on account of the medium temperature 
maintained comfortably all the year round. 

In the stove or tropical fernery the temperature need not be 
so high as is generally the case, and it is far more satisfactory if 
it can be kept at a moderate degree all the year round ; for it 
has been conclusively proved that far from being necessary to 
the comfort of the Ferns, a greater amount of artificial heat than 
they really require is highly injurious to them. Tropical Ferns 
may be said to have a period of active growth extending from 
March to October, and during that time it is advisable to take 
all possible advantage of the natural heat, which, even when 
somewhat strong, is not hurtful, provided it is counterbalanced 
by a corresponding amount of moisture in the atmosphere of the 
house. The damage is generally done by the use of artificial 
heat, which should not be resorted to so long as the night 
temperature of the house does not fall below 65deg. ; the solar 
heat may, without inconvenience to the plants, raise it to 75deg. 
or 8odeg. at that time of the year, and be maintained all through 



ON FERNS. 



539 



June and July. It should be gradually reduced from August until 
November, when a minimum temperature of 55deg. at night is all 
that is required, and it need not be much higher during the 
day until March again, when the vegetation commences. It is 
important that no Ferns whatever should be placed in close 
proximity to the hot-water pipes, which should be so disposed 
as to be completely hidden from view by the rockwork, and the hot- 
air shafts should be so managed that the heat generated by the 
pipes may not come in direct contact with the plants, but diffused 
in the house by passing through and at the back of the rockwork. 

Ventilatio?i. — The ventilation of the exotic fernery, whether 
as a stove or as a warm greenhouse, is of great importance, 
and proper means of renewing the air at the required times 
should be provided for in the building of the structure. Venti- 
lators in the roof of the house are not sufficient, for w^hen they 
are opened a cold current at once rushes in, and results in the 
discoloration of the foliage, which is due to the condensation 
upon the fronds of moisture caused by the cold current. The 
ventilation should be managed so that a free and constant supply 
of fresh air may be admitted without creating a regular draught, 
which is injurious to all plants, but particularly so to Ferns of 
any and all kinds. To that effect provision should be made, 
not only for the escape of hot air at the top, but also for the 
admission of fresh air along the lower part of the house by 
placing ventilators along the sides. These should be disposed 
a little below the level of the hot-water pipes, so that the air, 
which before escaping through the top ventilators, passes over 
and among the plants, should only do so after having been 
slightly warmed by a temporary contact with the hot-water pipes. 
Through this arrangement an upward current, which prevents 
chilly down-draughts, is produced, and the health of the plants 
subjected to this treatment is shown by a sturdy growth, and 
the production of a harder and more enduring foliage than is 
the case when the fernery is subjected to the influences of a 
high temperature combined with heavy shading, an abundance 
of permanent moisture, and a lack of ventilation, which is con- 
ducive to the production of weak and elongated foliage only. It 
is needless to add that the ventilation should be carefully attended 
to, and only when the temperature is high enough, and the 
exterior temperature and state of the atmosphere admit of the 
change of air, in which case the ventilators should be open as 
early in the morning as possible, and left on as long in the 
afternoon as it is considered safe. The Ferns which require the 
greatest amount of ventilation are the Cheilanthes, Nothochl^ena, 
and Anemia {Afiemia iomentosa^ Fig. 339). 

Ferns in Pots — Repotting. — All that has been previously 
recommended in connection with light, soil, temperature, shading. 



540 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and ventilation as being beneficial to the welfare of plants grown 
in the natural fernery, applies with equal force to plants grown 
in pots ; but it must be borne in mind that in this case Ferns 
require greater and more constant attention than when planted 
out, as they are much more liable to suffer from the effects of 

bad root action through stoppage of the 
'f^. ^ pots, overwatering, or drought when their 

roots are confined in pots, than when 
they can freely extend and ramble among 

the stones and moss, 
which render the natu- 
ral fernery the most 
attractive part of an 
amateur's garden. The 
repotting of Ferns is 
an operation of great 
importance, and the 
principal points to be 
observed in per- 
forming it are 
that they should 
not on any ac- 
count be over- 
potted, and that 
special care 
should be taken 
to prevent the 
roots of the plants 
being torn away 
or broken off. 
Over - potting is 
undoubtedly a 
frequent cause of 
loss of Ferns, 
and should always 
be avoided. Al- 
though a hard- 
and-fast rule as 
to the dimensions 
of the pots to be 
used cannot pos- 
sibly be laid down, 

it is well to remember that by far the best plan is to repot several 
times, as required, giving a slightly larger pot each time, than 
to put plants into much larger pots with the object of saving 
labour, or the trouble of repotting in a month or two. Through 
successive repottings the plants derive from each additional 
supply of new soil the full amount of the nutritive properties 




Fig. 339. — Anemia tomentosa. 



ON FERNS. 



It possesses, while over-potting frequently causes sickness. 
Healthy well rooted plants may safely be repotted as follows : 
from 3in. pots to 4^in. pots, from 4^in. pots to 6in. pots, 
from 6in. pots to Sin. pots, from Sin. pots to loin. pots, from 
loin. pots to i3in. pots, and so on. Ferns require repotting 
less frequently the larger they become, and the larger the pots 
are in which they growing ; they also should be repotted more 
or less frequently, according to their nature and to their power 
of growth. It is well known among practical men that these 
plants make their hardiest and most luxuriant growth when the 
inside surface of their pots is already covered with a network 
of their roots. 

When proper attention is given to Ferns after repotting, this 
operation may safely be performed at almost any time of the 
year ; but, speaking generally, it is preferable to commence in 
the warm house about the beginning of February, and in the 
cool house about the beginning of March. In every case it is 
most advisable to have the plants repotted as they start into 
new growth. This operation may be continued through spring 
and summer, but it is best to cease about the middle of. 
September, as little growth is made after that time, and the 
addition of new soil, even if not injurious to the plants, is of 
very little use, as its nutritive properties are washed out before 
the spring by the repeated waterings the plants require in the 
meantime. It is not advisable to put into larger pots plants with 
roots matted together into a hard mass until they have been 
carefully loosened as much as it can be done with safety. 
When the roots have filled the bottom of the pots, and have 
become thickly matted among the crocks, it is best to repot 
without disturbing them, leaving the crocks in, for it is certain 
that, if for the sake of removing the crocks the roots are torn 
away, the plants will be deprived of the best part of their 
feeders, and will suffer accordingly. Large plants should be 
examined and repotted if they require it, but there is no 
necessity for repotting them every year ; indeed, in many cases 
it is advisable not to do so, although small plants benefit by 
being repotted several times during the year, because in the 
growing season, under favourable conditions, they make fresh 
roots very rapidly. 

On account of the extremely sensitive nature of their roots. 
Ferns should preferably be potted in old pots ; these, when 
used, should be clean and dry, so as to prevent, whenever the 
plants are to be repotted, the breaking of their roots, which is 
bound to happen if the plants have been previously potted in 
wet or dirty pots, to the sides of which the roots will be found 
to strongly adhere. Whenever new pots are to be used, it is 
advisable to have these put in water, in which they should 
remain until they are thoroughly soaked, and then be well dried 



542 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



before using ; it is well known that pots fresh from the kihi 
absorb a great quantity of water, and when their pores are not 
previously filled, it very frequently happens that the first two 
or three waterings, instead of being beneficial to the plants, only 
serve to soak the pots, while the balls of soil which the latter 
contain become so dry that it is often most difficult afterwards 
to get them into a moist condition. Great care must always be 

taken that the 
plants when re- 
potted are suffi- 
ciently moist at 
the roots, which 
organs are exceed- 
ingly sensitive to 
even a temporary 
absence of mois- 
ture. AMien a 
Fern has suffered 
from want of 
water at the roots, 
the effect is shown 
by the shrivelhng 
of the fronds, the 
older ones beins: 
usually aff"ected 
before the young 
growths. This is 
a peculiarity well 
worthy of special 
notice; for while 
in the case of 
most other plants, 
either of a herba- 
ceous or of a 
woody texture, the 
temporary flag- 
ging of the foliage 
is efficiently reme- 
died by an ordi- 
nary watering, or, at the most, by a thorough soaking of 
the roots, such treatment has no apparent effect on the roots 
of most Ferns, and very few indeed are the species whose 
fronds, having once flagged, regain their elasticity by the appli- 
cation of water at the roots or over the foliage ; the Nothochlcena 
and the Cheilanthes {Cheilaiithes fa?'inosa, Fig. 340) being the 
Ferns which show the least the efl'ects of drought at the roots. 

In growing Ferns in pots it will be found greatly beneficial to 
the plants that these should stand on a solid, cool, moist bottom, 




ON FERNS. 



543 



and the ordinary stage or shelf can hardly correspond to the 
requirements of the plants. The most suitable material on 
which to place P'erns in general is a solid bed of ashes or one of 
sand covered with a layer of coal-cinders, w4iich have the property 
of remaining fresh and sweet for an indefinite time. Wherever 
practicable, the houses in which Ferns are intended to be grown 
in pots should be comparatively low structures, sunk i5in. or 
I Sin. below the surface of the ground, and provided with solid 
beds, bricked on their vertical outer surface. The walks 
should be made either of coarse gravel, or of the natural earth 
if of a sandy nature, simply covered with a thickness of 2in. or 
3in. of coal-cinders, these being the most porous, and at the 
same time the best moisture-retaining materials that can be used 
in a house in which constant humidity is of the utmost importance. 

Fancy Ways of Growing Ferns. — Pans. — Besides pot 
culture, pure and simple, there are several other equally practical 
ways of growing Ferns, some of which have been devised by 
the cultivator to render the plants more attractive by presenting 
them under their most- favourable aspect, w^hile others have 
been suggested to him by the nature of the plants under his 
care. 

Among the ways intended to encourage the culture of the 
plants, and add to their comfort, we may note the hanging- 
basket and the shallow pan, both of w^hich offer to certain 
species advantages which they could not obtain if grown in 
the time-honoured conventional flower-pot. The shallow pan 
is especially useful for the culture of most Ferns provided 
with running rhizomes, These organs, in a few instances, 
prefer being kept underground, but, in most cases, they 
delight in running over the surface of the soil to w^hich they 
should from time to time be carefully fastened down by means 
of small wooden pegs, which are useful until the rhizomes 
have produced sufficient roots to keep themselves in position, 
when the pegs may be entirely dispensed with. As the plants 
grow, and the rhizomes extend, they are apt to come over the 
sides of the pans ; for the w^elfare of the plants this must be 
prevented, and it is easily done by carefully turning them inside 
the pans and pegging them securely on to the soil. Under 
these conditions, the rhizomes producing fresh roots all along 
their length add strength to the plant, whereas, when they extend 
over the sides of the pan and out of the damp soil or moss, 
they seldom produce any roots, and have to be supported by 
the plant instead of helping it, and the results are anything but 
satisfactory. When used, the pans, like the pots, must be clean 
and dry. Drainage is an essential point ; the holes should be 
covered with large crocks, which should be covered wdth either 
moss or rough peat ; this, again, should be covered with a layer 
of very rough compost, higher in the middle than at the sides ; 



544 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



then the pan should be filled to a sufficient depth with finer 
material until there is enough to plant the Ferns. The principal 
thing is to have the work firmly done, and, when the rhizomes 
are well pegged down and watered, very little attention besides 
watering will be needed for some time. A greater surface in a 




Fig. 341. — POLYPODIUM sub-auriculatum. 

pan of same dimensions may easily be obtained by raising the 
compost in the centre of the pan and forming a cone resting on 
rough pieces of peat, all made secure by being skewered together. 
This method is particularly suitable to certain Ferns, such as 
Davallias, and, with a little extra care, these mounds can easily 
be prevented from becoming dry. 



ON FERNS. 



545 



Hanging-Baskets. — One of the most popular fancy ways of 
growing Ferns is in suspended baskets. These may be of various 
shapes and made of different materials, either galvanised or painted 
wire, wood, or bamboo cane, or even terra-cotta, such as are 
generally used for growing orchids. Individual taste must decide 
the kind to be used, as the baskets have very little influence on 
the growth of the Ferns ; but it is generally acknowledged 
that the plain galvanised ones, with stiff suspending wires, as 
shown in Fig. 341, representing Polypodium siib-auriculatum^ are 
the most useful. Baskets should be made up every spring, 
for, unless they are of a particularly large size, the great 
amount of water given to them during the previous season 
has rendered the soil so very poor that there is very little, if 
any, nourishment left in it for the Ferns the following year. 
These baskets should be lined with living moss, which, being 
firmly pressed against the wires, is sufficient to retain the 
soil, in which the Ferns should be planted a little below 
the surface of the wire so as to leave sufficient room for 
the water to penetrate the whole ball. In planting a 
hanging-basket the Ferns in the centre should be lower than 
those on the sides, to allow the water to run through the 
soil ; when planted too high, the difficulties in keeping the 
baskets in 
good order are 
greatly in- 
creased, where- 
as when filled 
as directed, 
ordinary water- 
ings, with oc- 
casional dip- 
pings, will be 
found quite 
sufficient to 
keep the plants 
in good condi- 
tion at the 
roots. One also 
sometimes sees 
baskets manu- 
factured of 
cork bark, 
which are very 
ornamental 

and rustic. These should be treated as stated above, but of course 
they do not require any lining of moss. The general appear- 
ance of hanging-baskets of any description is greatly increased 
by the introduction of a few foliage plants of drooping habit 




2 n 



546 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



being planted near the edge and allowed to hang down in 
a careless manner. Ficus repens, the beautiful new 7^ radicans 
variegata, green and variegated Tradescantia, and Saxifraga sar- 
vientosa, are among the best adapted for that purpose. 

Ferns on Cork. — Many are the ways in which Virgin cork 
may be used, and often with the greatest advantage ; but per- 
haps the prettiest arrangement made with that material consists 
in the making of artificial trees of various dimensions, by firmly 
binding or tying pieces of cork bark together, allowing little 

spaces here and there 
to be left open, so that 
the hollow parts may 
be filled with a com- 
post suitable to the 
Ferns used. Many 
Ferns will grow under 
such conditions, but it 
is particularly Davallias, 
Nephrolepis, and Platy- 
ceriums — as may be 
seen by Fig. 342, of 
P. IVillinckii — which 
luxuriate under this 
treatment. 

Dead Tree-Ferns. 
— It frequently happens that 
in an importation of Tree- 
Fern stems, some reach their 
destination in bad condition, 
and even completely dead. 
When such is the case these 
stems may easily be utilised 
with advantage ; a good-sized 
plant may be inserted in the 
top, and the sides may 
be planted with seedlings, 
which eventually take pos- 
session of the entire surface. 
Many species of Ferns suc- 
ceed well under these conditions, but the best adapted for 
the purpose are those which, in their natural state, are found 
growing in a similar way, such as Nephrolepis, Davallias, Poly- 
podiums, trailing Acrostichums, and Oleandras. The watering of 
these ornamented Tree-Fern stems (Fig. 343), to be effective, 
must be done from the top ; and during the growing season the 
waterings must be copious and frequent, being gradually 
discontinued as the winter season comes. 




Fig. 343. — Method of Utilising 
Stem of Dead Tree-Fern. 



ON FERNS. 



547 



Porous Bottles. — A terra-cotta bottle, made of a specially 
porous material, and usually known as the " Madeira Fern 
bottle," having been procured, it is covered with a layer of clay 
about an inch thick, which is fastened to it and held in position 
by means of copper wire worked across in different directions. 
Quite tiny seedlings of Adiantuin Capillns- Veneris are then 
planted in the clay, the bottle is filled with water, which 
soon percolates through to the clay, and hung up. There 
is no need of ever giving water direct • to the plants — the 
bottle only requires to be occasionally replenished ; by that 
means a most pleasing ball of green foliage is produced, 
lasting in perfection so long as the bottle is not allowed to get 
dry. 

The Fern or Wardian Case. — The Fern case, which 
proves a constant source of pleasure and instruction, is the 
one fancy way of growing Ferns which deserves the greatest 
amount of attention. No other way of growing Ferns, or 
indeed any other plants in a room, has greater attraction than 
a miniature fernery planted with judiciously selected Ferns. 
The charms of such culture are specially appreciated by persons 
of sedentary habits, spending all or the greater part of their 
time in town, where the pleasure of seeing plants growing in 
a natural state is an unknown advantage. 

The mode of planting the case should rest with the owner ; 
but whether it is devoted to the culture of ordinary sorts, or to 
that of the rarer and choicer class of plants known as " Filmy 
Ferns," the little glass structure is generally much admired, and 
most deservedly so. The Fern case should be well drained, the 
bottom part of it being separated from the soil by a false bottom 
made of perforated zinc, and the space thus remaining between 
the two being used for the reception of the water resulting from 
the watering of the plants. The perforated zinc should be 
covered with a thickness of 2in. of crocks, upon which a layer 
of sphagnum or one of fibrous peat, to prevent the drainage from 
becoming choked, should be placed. The bottom part of the case 
should then be filled to a depth of about 6in. with a mixture 
of soil suitable to the kinds intended to be planted in it. When 
ordinary Ferns are intended to be grown, a mixture of tw^o parts 
of either peat or leaf-mould, one part of fibrous loam, and one 
part of silver-sand will be found the most satisfactory compost 
for the majority of kinds used in planting in either Fern- 
or wqndow-cases. Should the case be intended for the culture of 
Trichomanes radicans, or Killarney Fern, especially, it will be 
found best to use, in equal proportions, peat and porous sand- 
stone, to which material the hairy rhizomes cling with great 
tenacity, while the fleshy roots run freely among the pieces, from 
which they derive all the nourishment they require. A compost of 
two parts of peat, one part of silver-sand, and one part of partly- 



2 N 2 



548 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



decomposed sphagnum is that which satisfies Todeas, Hymeno- 
phyllums, and Trichomanes, and, indeed, all kinds of "Filmies " 
with crowns or slender, shining rhiz.omes which delight in running 
into loose and decayed vegetable matter. It is best for the soil 
to be a little higher in the centre than at the sides. A miniature 
rockery may also with advantage be worked in the case, and 
there is no necessity for cementing together the pieces of stone 
or of tufa used in its construction. Provided that these be 
firmly embedded in the soil, they need only be stood up, and 
will easily be held in position by the soil itself, and by the 
Ferns planted between them. The case should be placed as 
near the window as possible, and in preference near a window 
facing north, as it is most essential that while the Ferns should 
be protected from the hot sun they should receive all the light 
possible. 

Watering the Fern-case is an operation which requires a 
certain amount of tact, as a great deal of irreparable mischief 
is often the result of a too liberal use of the watering-pot. 
After being planted, the Ferns should be watered gently until 
the soil is uniformly damp, and the case being closed, no 
more water will be required until the surface of the soil gets 
dry, when a gentle watering over the ground only, as before, 
should be given to the extent required ; but in any case it is 
most advisable to keep the foliage of the plant dry, unless 
the case is planted entirely with Filmy Ferns, which may 
safely be watered overhead, and should be kept in a moist 
condition. When grown in a room, the latter require but 
little ventilation, as it is well known that, if exposed for any 
length of time to the influence of the dry air of the dwelling- 
room, their delicate fronds soon shrivel up and are eventually 
destroyed. A case filled with ordinary kinds of Ferns requires 
a greater amount of ventilation, and, when thoroughly estab- 
lished in it, the plants derive much benefit from the change 
of air, which should be frequently given to prevent the glass 
from becoming dim and slimy through the condensation of 
moisture remaining too long upon it. 

Propagation. — The various ways by which Ferns are generally 
propagated are : (i) by means of the spores ; (2) by the 
division of the crowns ; (3) by the bulbils, or adventive buds, 
with which certain species are provided either at the base of • 
their fronds, or at their extremity, like Woodwardia radicans 
and certain Adiantums and Aspleniums ; along their rachis or 
midrib, like certain Polystichums ; or again all over the surface 
of their fronds, as in certain Aspleniums, Scolopendriums, and 
Woodwardia oriental is. 

Spores. — The most interesting, as also the most rapid mode 
of increasing Ferns on a large scale, is, undoubtedly, by means of 
the spores, as it is in flowering plants by means of their seeds. 



ON FERNS. 



549 



Points of great importance are the gathering of the spores in 
good condition, at the proper time, and the way and time of 
sowing them. They should be gathered when the spore-cases 
change colour and turn brown ; these, with a few exceptions, are 
disposed at the back of the fronds, sometimes along the edge 
of their leaflets, or pinnules, but sometimes also arranged in 
clusters or lines at the back of their leafy portions ; or, again, 
either disposed in large patches or irregularly dotted all over 
their under - surface, this according to the species which they 
represent or to which they belong. 

Time of Gathering. — There can be no fixed time named 
for the gathering, as the ripening of the spores takes place at 
all times of the year. To ascertain the proper time for collecting 
the spores it is necessary to watch the development of the spore- 
cases, which at the outset are colourless, becoming pale green, 
and with age either dark green or brown. When it is noticed 
that the spore-cases begin to lift, it is time to gather them ; the 
spore-bearing fronds, or the portions on which the spore-cases 
are disposed, should then be cut off, put in paper, and 
placed in a warm, dry place, where they should be allowed to 
remain for two or three days, when it will be found that the 
paper is covered with the spores. These resemble very fine 
dust, and according to the species to which they belong, 
are either pale or bright yellow, pale or dark green, or 
black. 

Time of Sowing. — Although Fern spores may be sown at any 
time of the year, March-April is considered the best time for 
sowing, as in that case, if properly treated, the greatest part 
of the seedlings raised have sufficient time to form crowns 
strong enough to stand the following winter. It may be safely 
stated that the sooner the spores are sown after their ripening, 
the more readily they germinate, although those which generally 
ripen during the autumn and winter may be kept in a 
dry place and preserved until the spring, when it is found 
more advantageous to sow them than during the winter, for 
in this latter instance there is a risk of the young plants being 
destroyed, especially if there should be very heavy fogs, which 
invariably have a most disastrous effect upon them. When, 
for some reason or other. Fern spores must be kept a long 
time without being sown, it is best to put them in 
bottles tightly corked or in boxes hermetically sealed ; under 
these conditions many of them will retain their germinating 
powers for several years. As an illustration of the vitality with 
which certain Fern spores are endowed, it may be stated 
here that some spores of the beatifully-coloured Pteris tricolor., 
which for seven years had been preserved in the way indicated 
above, were sown in the spring of 1876, and that, from that 
sowing, a splendid crop of young plants were raised, and 



55° 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



these, in the course of one season, produced perfectly healthy 
and robust specimens. 

Materials on ivhich to Sow. — Many ingenious and also more 
or less intricate ways of sowing Fern spores have been 
recommended, but it has been proved beyond doubt that, pro- 
vided the materials used are perfectly free from fungus, 
the simpler the operation is performed the more likely 
is it to be successful. It is also well known to practical 
growers that the spores of certain species germinate more 
readily on one substance than on another; consequently, 
when dealing with either a choice or a rare species, it is 
advisable to vary the compost and sow on several materials 
which may be either peat, loam, a mixture of both, or pieces 
of brick and sandstone broken small. From experiments under- 
taken with a view to ascertaining to what extent the nature of the 
material employed has influence upon the germination of the 
spores, it has been invariably observed that the spores falling 
on the substance for which they have a predilection have been 
found to produce most numerous seedlings on either peat, loam, 
or broken bricks, as the case may be. 

Mode of Sowing. — The most important point to be observed 
in sowing spores of exotic Ferns is to insure a uniformly moist 
atmosphere, combined with a temperature of from yodeg. to 
75deg., although many of them will germinate in a much lower 
temperature, but they will also be much longer in developing. 
Spores of British and other hardy Ferns may be sown in an 
ordinary greenhouse or in a cold frame, in which case the pots 
or pans in which they are sown should be placed in some 
damp, shady, but not dark, corner, and stood on either a tile 
or a slate, so as to prevent worms from getting into them from 
below. There is, however, a great and decided advantage in 
submitting them to the same treatment as the exotic kinds, as 
they germinate more rapidly and take less time in producing 
young characteristic plants when sown in heat, although this is 
not indispensable. 

It is immaterial whether the spores are sown in pots, in pans, 
or in boxes ; this must be left to the discretion of the operator, 
who will use that which he finds answers his purpose best ; but 
unless very great quantities for one special kind are required, 
it will be found that either 4^in. or 5in. pots are of quite 
sufficient size, for if properly sown and carefully handled after- 
wards, each one of these pots can accommodate thousands of 
seedlings. After giving either pots or pans a good drainage, 
which should be covered with a layer of either fibrous peat or 
sphagnum, it is best to fill them half way with a compost 
similar to that used for general potting, or with pure loam, leaving 
sufficient space to allow for a layer, at least lin. thick, of the 
composts recommended above, which should previously be either 



ON FERNS. 



burned or scalded to destroy all germs of vegetable life and all 
insects that may be found in them. When ready for sowing, 
the pots or pans should not be quite full ; the top layer should 
not reach the outside surface of the pot by about Jin., as it is 
necessary that they should be covered with a piece of glass, 
which should remain on them until the young seedlings are up, 
and the space thus reserved is required for their development. 
The pots or pans should then be stood nearly to the rim in 
water, in which they should remain long enough to get 
thoroughly soaked, after which they should be allowed to drain 
for a few minutes, when sowing may take place. 

On account of their extreme minuteness, the spores, when sown, 
must not be covered with soil ; they should be simply scattered 
thinly over the surface of the compost contained in the pots or 
pans, which should immediately be covered with a piece of glass. 
This has for its object the total exclusion of other spores which 
may be in suspense about the place, and it also greatly helps 
to keep a close, moist atmosphere about the spores which, on 
that account, germinate and grow more freely than they would 
do if left uncovered. It is also necessary, while sowing, to hold 
the paper which contains the spores very close to the surface of 
the pots or pans, and care should be taken that the operation is 
performed in a perfectly still atmosphere, as, being of an 
exceedingly light nature, they are very liable, under the influence 
of the slightest draught, to fly in all directions. When the 
sowing has taken place, it is advisable to stand the pots 
or pans, covered with glass, in shallow saucers containing water, 
which will rise to the compost and keep it in a uniform state 
of moisture ; they should then be disposed in places varying in 
temperature with the species sown. 

Watering of Spores. — The watering of the pots or pans in 
which the spores have been sown is an operation requiring 
great attention, as it is at a certain given time, and through the 
agency of moisture, that their fecundation takes place. Should 
the water in the saucers prove insufficient to keep the soil moist, 
the pots must be watered by partial immersion, that is by 
allowing the lower part to stand in water until sufficient moisture 
has been absorbed to soak the mass of soil. 

The length of time which elapses between the sowing of 
the spores and their germination is very variable, some showing 
signs of life in the course of a few days, while others are 
sometimes several months before doing so. It has been 
observed that even those taken from one frond sometimes 
vary in the length of time they take to germinate, some of 
them developing weeks before others, although sown at the 
same time, subjected to the same treatment, and even when 
sown in the same pan. The germination of the spores is 
clearly indicated by a faint colouring of green on the surface 



552 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



of the soil, which colouring increases until the pots or pans 
are completely covered with a growth which, in general 
appearance, greatly resembles the common Liverwort. It is 
from this strange growth that the 3^oung Ferns ultimately 
develop, according to the different species, in a space of time 
varying from two to six months from the time of sowing. It 
is during a certain state of apparent dormancy, lasting some- 
times several weeks^ that the fecundation takes place, and it is 
also during that particular time that, to encourage fertilisation, 
a uniform rate of moisture is most important. 

'•''Pricking" Off. — The spores having germinated freely, and 
grown to form a dense mass of Lichen- or Liverwort-like 
appearance, it is necessary, or even indispensable, that they 
should be "pricked off." This delicate operation consists in 
separating this singular growth into small patches, and 
depositing them in other pots filled with a material or compost 
similar to the one in which they have been sown ; its object 
is to give the young seedlings the required room to develop 
themselves, for if allowed to crowd and overgrow each other 
in the seed-pan, they are very liable to damp off". After 
having been pricked off, these seedlings should for a few days 
be treated as they were previously. They should be gradually 
inured to the action of the air by tilting on one side the 
glass cover, which may, in a short time, be removed altogether. 
They may now be watered overhead and placed where they 
will receive plenty of light, and where they will require to be 
kept damp. In some cases this operation may have to be 
repeated several times before the fronds make their appearance, 
or before the young plants are strong enough to be potted 
singly, and treated as recommended in the section on " Ferns 
in Pots." 

Garde?! Hybrids. — The interest attaching to Ferns pro- 
pagated from spores is greatly increased by the chance thus 
afforded of finding something new, which result cannot be 
achieved if the plants are propagated in any other way. The 
number of garden hybrids, or supposed hybrids, already in 
existence, and obtained in that way, is steadily increasing every 
year, and it may be safely stated that in the majority of cases 
these productions are not merely freaks of nature, but, as may 
be seen by the accompanying illustration of Adiaiitiim 
Birkenheadii (Fig. 344), real acquisitions, possessing great deco- 
rative qualities, such, for instance, as the beautiful Polypodium 
May a, exhibited at the Temple Show in Alay, 1899, and in 
which the pleasing frilled character of the edges of the fronds, 
combined with their lovely bluish colour, makes it one of the 
prettiest Ferns known. The most distinct and most beautiful 
of all Polypodiums, P. Sckneideri, with its large, very plumose 
fronds, is another illustration of what may be found among 



I 



ON FERNS. 



553 



plants propagated from spores ; and these, besides endless forms 
of Pteris, Adiantums, Gymnogrammes, &€., go far to prove that 
something unexpected may turn up and handsomely repay all 
trouble and attention which that mode of propagation entails 
on the part of the operator. 

This mode of reproduction is also frequently resorted to for 
covering naturally damp bare stone or brick walls, on which 
the spores of certain 
species germinate 
promptly, and the 
plants grow apace for a 
long time without any 
other nourishment than 
moisture, and what little 
vegetable - mould is 
naturally produced by 
the decaying of their 
lower fronds. 
The fact that the 
market grower 
seldom employs 
other means than 
spores for the 
raising of his 
Ferns is a proof 
of the excellency 
of the process, 
although his mode 
of procedure is 
of the simplest 
description. His 
object being the 
production of 
showy sorts of 
rapid growth, he 
limits his culture 
to a few genera, 
such as Adiaiitum, 

Aspidium, Asplenium, Lastrea, Nephrodmm, Polypodium^ and Pteris^ 
and even of these he only grows the most vigorous. In his case the 
spores of the different species are sown broadcast on the surface 
of pots containing plants of slower growth, such as Palms, which, 
not often requiring fresh potting, give the spores a fair chance 
of germinating and even of producing young plants without being 
disturbed. The latter are "pricked off" in either boxes or pans; 
thence, when they have made five or six fronds, they are potted 
at once in 2jin. pots. In that size, hundreds of thousands of 
Ferns are disposed of annually for the ornamentation of the 




Fig. 344. — Adiantum Birkenheadii. 



554 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



dinner-table or of dwelling-rooms, for which purposes more Ferns 
are grown in this country than any other plants, and all of them 
are raised from spores, 

Fropagation by Division of the Crowns. — All Ferns which 
naturally form clusters of crowns may be propagated by the 
division of these adventitious crowns ; these are produced some- 
times from buds situated at the base of the stalk, and at others 
by a process of fission in the crowns themselves. When 
Ferns are to be propagated by the division of the crowns, it 
is necessary to allow sufficient time for their full development 
into two or more distinct centres of growth, when it will be 
found that each of these is provided with its own set of roots, 
and is really a perfect plant. The crowns should be just 
separated with a knife, and then carefully pulled apart, retain- 
ing to each one all the roots possible. The plan of cutting 
through the crowns and ball of roots is not to be recommended, 
as it severs many roots from the crowns to which they belong, 
and this materially reduces the chances of the plants surviving 
the operation. It is far better to take a little more pains, and 
in separating the crowns to carefully retain the roots as intact as 
possible. To that effect it is advisable to either gently shake, 
or even wash away the soil, so that when the crowns have 
been separated, the roots may be easily disentangled, and the 
plants potted at once. They should then be kept close and 
shaded for a few days to prevent undue evaporation and loss 
of vigour, and kept there until the plants are strong, enough 
to stand outside the case. 

If this mode of propagation is applied to British Ferns after 
the operation has been performed, they should be kept in a 
cold frame, as artificial heat is not in any way beneficial to 
them, and little or no water should be given to them until 
the first fronds make their appearance. It is particularly 
applicable, amongst our native kinds, to the numerous and 
beautiful forms of Athyriuin Filix-fa??iina, Lastrea Filix-mas^ 
and Scolopendriums. It is undoubtedly the safest mode of 
increasing most of the crested, tasselled, congested, or 
depauperated forms of these species, the faithful reproduction 
from spores of the endless varieties being at least doubtful. It is 
also deemed advisable sometimes to resort to that operation as 
a means of regulating the growth of the plants, which are of 
less graceful appearance when, through the multiplicity of crowns, 
a crowd of foliage, developing in all directions, is produced. 
The most favourable time for the operation is through February 
and March, as the plants, being then either entirely at rest, or 
just beginning to grow, they do not suffer as they would 
when in full growth, and the new subjects have plenty of 
time to thoroughly establish themselves during the ensuing 
season. 



ON FERNS. 



555 



Propagation from Rhizomes. — Ferns which are provided with 
rhizomes creeping above ground may be easily propagated by 
the division of these organs, as every piece of creeping rootstock 
bearing a couple of fronds and a few roots, usually produces a 
plant when firmly pegged to the ground with the roots well 
covered. It is useless to cut off for this purpose the rhizomes 
which, having extended over the sides of the pots, are destitute 
of roots. If such are required for propagation, they must either 
be bent back, or else have a pot containing soil placed under 
them ; they should then be firmly pegged to the soil and left 
until they have produced roots, when they may safely be 
separated from the parent plant by first cutting through the 
rhizome, and then carefully taking them up with all the roots 
attached. 

The best material in which these newly-divided plants may be 
placed is one of very porous nature, in which a sufficient quantity 
of permanent moisture can easily be maintained without the 
compost becoming sour. The compost which gives the most 
satisfactory results is a mixture in equal proportions of chopped 
sphagnum, rough fibrous peat, and coarse silver-sand. Many 
different species, especially among Davallias, Acrostichums, and 
Polypodiums, are amenable to this mode of propagation ; but it 
should be borne in mind that in every case the rhizome which 
is to be separated from the mother-plant must be provided with 
a growing point and a few roots, and when possible also a few 
fronds, although this is not indispensable. 

Ferns propagated in this way are all the better for being 
placed in a close frame for a time ; even if they do not actually 
require it, they recover much more quickly when so treated, as 
they do not feel so acutely the effects of the disturbance at the 
roots. It may not be out of place here to point out that, 
although Gleichenias are abundantly provided with external 
rhizomes, they are the most difficult subjects to propagate by 
division, and that large plants can rarely be cut up successfully. 
Their rhizomes are of such a wiry and rambling nature that they 
are generally destitute of roots on their greatest length, and it 
is only by securing the younger part of the rhizomes with 
fibrous roots and growing points that there is any chance of 
success. The old portions of the rhizomes are of no value for 
propagating purposes, as they very seldom, if ever, break out 
again ; it is therefore necessary to look to young, healthy plants 
exclusively for propagation. 

Propagation from Proliferous Growths. — When we have to 
deal with Ferns of a viviparous or proliferous nature, either 
British or exotic, the best mode of propagation is obvious, for 
even when these plants can be reproduced from spores, the time 
gained by rooting the adventitious growths, as compared with the 
time taken by the complete development of seedlings, is sufficient 



556 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



to give the former process the preference. The Ferns partaking 
of these characters may be divided thus : (i) plants viviparous over 
the whole or the greater part of the surface of the leafy portion of 

their fronds ; (2) plants 
in which the proliferous 
character instead of 
belonging to the leafy 
portion of the fronds, 
extends only to its 
rachis or stalks which 
are covered with adven- 
titious growths ; (3) 
plants whose fronds 
bear one solitary bulbil, 
situated at or near to 
their extremity, and 
whose tailed appendage 
is formed by the pro- 
duction of a young 
plant partaking of the 
same characters as the 
parents, as is the case 
in Fadyena prolifera 
(Fig. 345); (4) plants 
which have the base 
of their stalks pro- 
vided with either 
stolons or scales 
of a proliferous 
nature, each of 
these bearing one 
or more latent 
buds, which, 
under favourable 
circumsta nc e s, 
never fail to re- 
produce the 
parent. The pro- 
pagation of these 
Ferns is of the 
simplest descrip- 
tion, and consists 

in pegging the fronds or their parts which bear the proliferous 
growths so that these come in direct contact with the soil, when 
they will produce roots and soon be able to support themselves. 
In the species where the buds are disposed on the stalks, or 
at the base of the fronds, it is most important that these should 
be encouraged into growth before the stalks begin to decay, for, 




Fig. 345. — Fadyena prolifera. 



ON FERNS. 



557 



if not separated in good time from the mother-plant, these latent 
growths are almost sure to become abortive. 

In dealing with species which have the latent buds disposed 
on the scales at the base of their fronds, the operation consists 
in assisting, or rather in artificially stimulating their development, 
for, when left to themselves, they usually remain dormant, and 
eventually become abortive. This applies particularly to Angiop- 
teris and Marattias, whose fronds are surrounded at their base 
by fleshy scales, each provided with two buds, which seldom, if 
ever, develop if left on the plants, but which, carefully 
taken off and placed in a compost of an open nature, and 
subjected to the influences of heat and moisture, produce young 
plants. This also applies to certain of our British species, 
especially Lastreas, Scolopendriums, and Polystichums, for it has 
been observed that the basal portion of the old fronds contain 
such latent buds, which, when detatched with the portion of 
the fronds bearing them, usually develop young plants in the 
same manner. 

Propagation from Tubers and Bulbils. — Certain species, such 
as Cystopteris btilbifera, are provided with bulbils on their 
fronds, or, like several Nephrolepis, with distinct tubers on their 
stolons. These, when taken off and potted, soon form young 
plants. Others, such as certain Adiantums and Platyceriums, 
form small bulbils on their roots. These should be allowed to 
develop one or two fronds, when they may safely be taken off 
and treated as seedlings, and produce young plants in every 
respect similar to the parent plants. 

Selection of Kinds for Special Purposes. 

With a view to helping in the plantation or in the cultivation of 
outdoor, cool, and warm ferneries, and also of supplying the 
necessary information for making the same as attractive as possible, 
it has been thought advisable to give several separate lists of the 
Ferns best adapted to special requirements, as follows, and to 
(where the degree of hardiness or tenderness is not indicated in 
the heading) mark with an asterisk {^) those kinds which 
thrive best under warm treatment. Those species and varieties 
which succeed under ordinary greenhouse treatment, and which 
are the most numerous, have no special mark, whereas those 
marked t are perfectly hardy. 

Tree Ferns. 

Alsophila australis. Brainea insignis.* 

contaminans.* Cyathea arborea.* 

Cooperii. dealbata. 

excelsa. - Dregei.* 
Rebeccae. insignis.* 
villosa.* meduUaris (Fig. 331). 



558 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Dicksonia antarctica. 
Barometz. 
chrysotricha. 
fibrosa, 
regalis.* 
Schiedei.* 



Dicksonia squarrosa. 
Hemitelia Smithii. 
Lomaria cycadoides. 

discolor. 

gibba. 



Those marked * require stove temperature. 

Gigantic Non= arborescent Ferns. 

Acrostichum aureum.* Angiopteris evecta.* 

cervinum. Aspidium capense. 

scandens.* Asplenium longissimum. 




Fig. 346. — PoLYPODiuM aureum. 



Adiantum cardiochlaenum.* 
tenerum.* 

trapeziforme (Fig. 332). 



Asplenium Nidus.* 
Blechnum brasiliense. 
Davallia divaricata.* 



ON FERNS. 



559 



Davallia hirta cristata.* 

platyphylla. 
Dicksonia adiantoides. 

Culcita. 

davallioides Youngii. 
Didymochlaena truncatula.* 
Marattia alata.* 
Cooperii.* 



elegans 

Nephrolepis davallioides and varieties 

Those marked * require stove temperature. 



Nephrolepis rufescens tripinnatirida.* 
Polypodium aureum (Fig. 346). 
Heracleum.* 

sub-auriculatum (Fig. 341).* 
veiTucosum.* 
Pteris Drinkwaterii. 
moluccana.* 
tremula and varieties. 
Todea arborea. 

Woodwardia orientalis and radicans. 



Polypodium piloselloides. 
rupestre. 
vaccinifolium. 



Smal I = growing Ferns. 

Acrostichum peltatum.* 
Actiniopteris radiata.* 
Adiantum fissum. 

Legrandii. 

Luddemannianum. 

mundulum. 

Pacottii. 

reniforme. 
f Asplenium Ceterach (Fig. 

347)- 
elegantulum. 

flabellifolium. 

jfontanum (Fig. 334). 

monanthemum. 

•fRuta-muraria. 

jTrichomanes. 

viviparum.* 

Davallia alpina.* 

parvula.* 

Fadyena prolifera.* 

fLomaria Spicant and 

varieties. 

Nephrodium fragrans. 

sanctum. 

Pellaea Brewerii. fWoodsia glabella. 

Bridgesii. jhyperborea. 

gracilis. foregana. 
Polypodium lycopodioides. yscopulina. 

Those marked * require stove temperature ; those marked \ are perfectly hardy. 




Fig. 347. — Asplenium Ceterach. 



Ferns with Coloured or Tinted Fronds. 



Adiantum cardiochlaena.* 
colpodes. 
cyclosorum.* 
hispidulum. 
lunulatum.* 

macrophyllum and varieties.* 
peruvianum.* 
rhodophyllum.* 
rubellum.* 

tetraphyllum gracile.* 
tinctum. 
Veitchianum.* 
Blechnum longifolium gracile. 



Blechnum occidentale. 
Brainea insignis.* 
Davallia polyantha.* 
retusa.* 

tenuifolia Veitchiana.* 
Didymochlceoa truncatula,* 
fLastrea corusca. 

ferythrosora. 

fopaca. 

fprolifica. ' 
Lomaria attenuata. 

L'Herminieri.* 
Osmunda palustris. 



I 



560 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Pelloea, nearly all of a glaucous 
colour. 

Polypodium appendiculatum. 
aureum. 
glaucoph^'llum. 

Those marked * require stove temperature ; those marked j ai e perfectly hardy. 



Polypodium sporadocarpum. 
Pteris aspericaulis. 

tricolor.* 
Woodwardia orientalis. 



Pteris nemoralis variegata. 
palmata nobilis.* 
quadriaurita argyreia. 
q. tricolor.* 



Variegated Ferns. 

Adiantum cuneatum variegatum. 

macrophyllum striatum . * 
Anemia phyllitidis tessellata. 
jAthyrium Goringianum pictum. 
Dictyogramme japonica variegata. 
Lastrea aristata variegata. 
fPolypodium vulgare variegatum. 
jPteris aquilina variegata. 

cretica albo-variegata. 

cretica Mavii. 

Those marked * require stove temperature ; those tnarked j aj-e perfectly hardy. 



regina?. 



r. cristata. 
Victorise. 
V. cristata. 
fScolopendrium vulgare variegatum. 



Crested Ferns. 

Adiantum cuneatum grandiceps. 

cuneatum Luddemannianum. 

c. versaillense. 

excisum multifidum. 
fAspidium angulare, numerous forms. 




Fig. 348.— Asplenium Adiantum- 
nigrum grandiceps. 



jAsplenium marinum ramosum. 

fTrichomanes, several forms. 
jAthyrium Filix-foemina, numerous 
forms. 

Davallia elegans polydactyla.* 
hirta cristata.* 
Mariesii cristata. 
Doodia aspera multifida (Fig. 333).* 
Gymnogramme grandiceps.* 
Parsonsii.* 
Wettenballiana. * 

jLastrea Filix-mas, numer- 
ous fonns. 
patens cristatum. 
Richardsii multifida. 
fspinulosa polydactyla. 
jLomaria Spicant, several 
forms. 

Xephrolepis davallioides furcans.* 
Dui^i.* 

Niphobolus lingua cor}-mbifera. 
Osmunda japonica corymbifera. 

fregalis cristata. 
t Polypodium vulgare, several lorms. 
J Pteris aquilina grandiceps. 
cretica, several forms, 
serrulata, several forms, 
tremula grandiceps. 
t. Smitliiana, 
jScolopendrium vulgare, numerous 
fonns. 

Woodwardia radicans cristata. 



jAsplenium Adiantum-nigrum gran- 
diceps (Fig. 348). 

Those marked * require stove temperature ; those marked j are perfectly hardy. 

Gold and Silver Ferns. 

Adiantum scabrum. Adiantum Williamsii. 

sulphureum. • Alsopliila pruinata. 



« 



ON FERNS. 



Cheilanthes argentea. 
Borsigiana.* 
Clevelandii. 
Eatoni. 

farinosa (Fig. 340). 
tomentosa. 
Cyatliea dealbata. 

Gymnogramme calomelanos, several 
silver forms.* 
chr}'SophyHa, several golden 
forms.* 



triangularis. 



Gymnogramme trifoliata.* 
Nothochlaena Eckloniana. 

flavens. 

hypoleuca. 

lanuginosa. 

Newberrjni. 

nivea. 

sinuata. 

sulphurea. 

trichomanoides . * 
Onycliium auratum.* 



Those marked * require stove temperature. 



Filmy or Transparent Ferns. 



Hymenophyllum aeruginosum 

asplenioides. 

caudiculatum. 

chiloense. 

ciliatum. 

crispum. 

cruentum. 

demissum. 

dilatatum. 

Forsterianum. 

hirsutum. 

javanicum. 

pectinatum. 

pulcherrimum. 

scabrum. 
ftunbridgense. 
fWilsoni. 
Todea Fraseri. 

grandipinnula. 

intermedia. 

pellucida. 

superba. 
Trichomanes alatum. 

exsectum. 

humile. 

pai-vulum. 

p}'xidiferum. 
jradicans and varieties. 

renifoiTne. 

tenenim. 



Trichomanes trichoideum. 
venosum. 




Fig. 349. — Gyainogramme schizophylla. 



Those marked j are -perfectly hardy 



Ferns of Drooping Habit. 

Adiantum amabile.* 
caudatum.* 

concinnum (Fig. 352).* 
incisum.* 
lunulatum.* 
1. dolabriforme.* 
Asplenium caudatum.* 
flabellifolium. 
flaccidum. 
lonoissimum.* 



Asplenium obtusilobum.* 

Sandersoni.* 
Davallia chseropliylla. 

dissecta. 

fijiensis and varieties.* 

hemiptera.* 

retusa.* 

tenuifolia Veitchiana.* 
Gymnogramme gloriosa.* 
schizophylla (Fig. 349) 

2 



O 



562 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Nephrolepis acuta, Polypodium lachnopus. 

Bausei. Paradisae. 

cordifolia. • sub-auriculatum (Fig. 341). 

davallioides.* sub-petiolatum. 

d. furcans.* vermcosum.* 

Duffii.* Pteris moluccana.* 

exaltata. Woodwardia orientalis. 

pluma. radicans. 

Polypodium , appendiculatum. r. cristata. 

Those marked * require stove tejnperature . 

Ferns of Climbing Habit. 

Lygodium dichotomum.* Lygodium scandens (Fig. 337). 

japonicum. venustum.* 

palmatum. volubile.* 
pinnatifidum.* 

Those marked * require stove temperature. 



Ferns of Trailing: Habit. 



Acrostichum acuminatum.* 
cervinum.* 

osmundaceum (Fig. 350).' 
peltatum (Rhipidopteris).' 
scandens (Stenochtena) 



Davallia divaricata.* 
elegans.* 
Grifj&thiana.* 
Mrsuta. 
(Fig. immersa. 

marginalis. 

Davallia Mariesii. 
Mooreana.* 
novae-zelandise. 
pentaphylla.* 
pyxidata. 



0^- 




Fig. 350.— Acrostichum osmundaceum 



Davallia aculeata.* 
affinis. 

chaerophylla. 



Davallia repens. 
solida. 
Tyermanni. 
Dicksonia adiantoides. 
cicutaria. 

Davallioides Youngii.* 
Gleichenias, all known 
■ sorts. 

Hymen opliyllum, all 

known sorts. 
Nephrolepis, all known 
sorts. 

Oleandra articulata,* 
nodosa.* 
Wallichii. 
Polypodium aureum. 
Billardieri. 
jDryopteris (Fig. 336). 
Polypodium glaucopliyllum.* 
thexagonopterum. 
lachnopus. 



ON FERNS. 



5^3 



Polypodium lingua. 
1. corymbifera. 
Paradiseae."^ 
jPhegopteris. 
piloselloides. 
pustulatum. 
repens.* 
Schneideri.'^ 



Polypodium Swartzii.* 

vaccinifolium.* 

verrucosum.* 
fvulgare and varieties. 
Polystichum capense. 
Pteris moluccana."^ 

scaberula. 

Trichomanes, most of the known 
sorts. 

Woodwardia angustifolia. 



sporadocarpum.* 
sub-auriculatum (Fig. 341).* 
sub-petiolatum.* 

Those marked * reqitire stove temperature ; those marked -j- are perfectly hardy. 



Schizaea, all known sorts.* 
Taenitis, all known sorts.* 



Curious Ferns. 

Actiniopteris radiata.* 

r. australis.* 
Adiantum reniforme. 

r. azarifolium.* 
Anemia, all known 

sorts,* 
Angiopteris evecta. 
Asplenium australasi- 
cum.* 
Hemionitis. 
Nidus.* 
-]-Botr)'chium lunaria. 
Ceratopteris thalictro- 
ides.* 

Fadyena prolifera(Fig. 

345)-* 
Gymnogramme java- 

nica.* 

JNIuellerii. 

trifoliata.* 

Helminthostachys zey- 

lanica.* 

Hemionitis cordata.* 

palmata.* 

Hjanenodium crini- 

tum.* 

Lindsay a reniformis.* 

Llavea cordi folia. 

Lygodium, all knouTi 

sorts. 

Marattias, all known 

sorts.* 
Pellaea geranifolia (Fig. 

.351)- 

Platy cerium, all known 

sorts.* 
Polypodium fossum.* 

Xiphias. 
Pteris ludens.* 

palmata. 

sagittifolia. 
Rhipidopteris peltata.* 

p. gracillima.* 

Those marked * reqiLire stove temperature ; those marked f are perfectly hardy. 

202 




Fig. 35 c. — PELL.EA GERANIFOLIA. 

Trichomanes reniforme. 
Vittaria, all known sorts.* 



564 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Viviparous aad Proliferous Ferns. 

Adiantum caudatmn.* 
ciliatum.* 
dolabriforme.* 
lunulatum.* 




Asplenium laxum Dumiium. 
longissimum.* 
monantliemuin. 
obtusilobum. 

Asplenium 



Fig, 352. — Adiantum concinnum 



Asplenium alatum. 
attenuatum. 
Belangerii.* 
bulbiferum. 
caudatum.* 
Colensoi. 
compressum. 
dimoiphum. 
flabellifolium. 
flacciduni. 



reclina- 

tum.* 
Sandersoni.* 
tenellum. 
viviparum.* 
V. nobile.* 
Ceratopteris thaiic- 

troides.* 
Cystopteris bulbifera. 
Fadyena prolifera 

(Fig. 345)- 
Gymnogramme schi- 

zophylla.* 
Hemionitis cordata.* 

palmata.* 
Hypolepis Bergiana. 
Lastrea cicutaefolia. 

prolifica. 
Nephrolepis, nearly 
all known 
sorts. 

Pliegopteris divergens. 
Platycerium alcicorne 

(Fig. 353)- 
Stemmaria.* 
Willinckii (Fig. 

.342).* 
Pol}^odium prolife- 
rum. 
refractum. 
-j-Polystichum angular e 
pr oliferum, 
and varieties. 
Aivipanim. 
Pteris palmata. 
Scolopendrium (Camp- 
tosorus) rhi- 
zophyllum. 
f Scolopendrium ^^llgare densum. 
fv. proliferum. 
fv. Wardii. 
Trichonianes pinnatum.* 
Woodwardia orientalis. 
radicans. 
r. Burgesiana. 
r. crispa. 
r. cnstata. 



Those marked * require stove tetriperature ; those marked f are perfectly hardy 

Ferns for Mangling: Baskets in Warm Fernery. 

Adiantum am a bile. Adiantum dolabriforme. 



caudatum. 

concinnum (Fig. 352). 
cuneatum grandiceps. 



Farleyense. 

fragrantissimum. 

gracillimum. 



ON FERNS. 



Adiantum peruviaimm. 

AVilliamsii. 
Asplenium caudatum. 

longissimum. 
Blechnum glandulosum. 
Davallia dissecta. 

elegans. 

fijiensis and varieties. 

Griffithiana. 

Mooreana. 



Davallia pentaphylla. 

tenuifolia Veitchiana. 
Gymnogramines, gold and silver. 

schizophylla gloriosa. 
Microlepia hirta cristata. 
Nephrolepis davallioides furcans. 

exaltata. 

pectinata. 
Platycerium alcicome (Fig. 353). 
Polypodium sub-auriculatum (Fig. 341;. 




Fig. 353. — Platycerium alcicorne. 

Ferns for Growing on Cork Blocks in Cool Fernery. 

Adiantum Capillus- Veneris and Pellaea ternifolia. 

varieties. Platycerium alcicorne (Fig. 353). 

colpodes elegans. Polypodium incanum. 

Asplenium flabellifolium. lycopodioides. 

Davallia bullata. pustulatum. 

Mariesii salicifolium. 

M. cristata. tenellum. 

Hypolepis distans. triangulare laxum. 
Pell^a rotundifolia. 



566 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Ferns for Hanging 

Adiantum assimile. 

venustum. 
Asplenium flaccidum. 
Davallia bull at a. 

Lawsoniana. 

Mariesii. 

M. cristata. 

novse-zelandiae. 
Hypolepis distans. 

tenuis. 
Leucostegia immersa. 
Nephrolepjs philippinensis. 



Baskets in Cool Fernery. 

Nephrolepis pluma. 

tuberosa. 
Pellsea ternifolia. 
Phegopteris effusa. 
Platycerium alcicorne iFig. 353). 
Polypodium pustulatum. 
Polystichum lepidocaulon. 
Pteris scabenila. 

serrulata and varieties. 
Woodwardia orientals. 

radicans. 

r. cristata. 



Ferns for Growing on Cork Blocks in Warm Fernery. 



Adiantum ciliatum. 

dolabriforme. 

lunulatum. 

setulosum. 
Asplenium nobilis. 
Davallia decora, all 

riiizomes. 
Nephrolepis cordata compacta. 

pectinata. 

philippinensis. 



species 



with 



Oleandra nodosa. 
Pellaea flexuosa. 
Phlebodium venosum. 
Phymatodes vulgaris cristata. 
Platycerium grande. 

Hillii. 

Stemmaria. 

WiUinckii (Fig. 342). 
Stenochlaena scandens (Fig. 338). 



Ferns for Planting on Walls in the Warm Fernery. 



Adiantum aemulum. 
amabile. 
caudatum. 




Fig. 354. — Adiantum cuneatum 
luddemannianum. 



Adiantum ciliatum. 

cuneatum and varieties (Fig. 354). 
fragrantissimum. 

Adiantum peru-sianum. 
pubescens. 
tenerum. 
Asplenium alatum. 
flaccidum. 
planicaule. 
Bleclanum glandulosum. 
Davallia decora, 
dissecta. 
elegans. 
hemiptera. 

fijiensis and varieties. 
Mooreana. 
pentaphylla. 
Tyermannii. 
Leucostegia immersa. 
Nephrolepis, all sorts-. 
Osmunda palustris. 
Platyloma ternifolia. 
Polypodium appendicula- 
tum. 
Billardierii. 
Catherina?. 
g]aucoph}-lium, 
sub-auriculatum (Fig. 

341)- 

Polystichum mucrona- 
tum. 

Stenochlaena scandens 
(Fig. 338). 



ON FERNS. 



Ferns for Planting on Walls in the Cool Fernery. 



Adiantum aethiopicum. 
assimile. 

Capillus- Veneris and varieties, 
colpodes. 

cuneatum and varieties. 

Cunninghamii. 

denorum. 

formosum. 

fuhoim. 

pubescens. 

venustum. 

Williamsii. 
Asplenium biforme. 

elegantulum. 

flaccidum. 
Blechnum occidentale. 



Davallia bullata. 

Mariesii. 

novae-zelandi^. 
Diplazium Thwaitesii. 
Doodia caudata. 
Hypolepis distans. 

rep ens. 
Leucostegia immersa. 
Nephrolepis tuberosa. 
Niphobolus lingua. 
Onychimn japonicum. 
Polystichum triangulare laxum. 
Pteris adiantifolia. 

longifolia. 

scaberula. 

serrulata and varieties. 




Fig. 355. — Aglaomorpha (Polypodium) ]\Ieyeniana. 
Stove Ferns for Exhibition. 



Adiantum cardiochlaena. 
Collisii. 



Adiantum Farley ense. 
fragrantissimum. 



568 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Adiantum Lathomii. 
peruvianum. 

trapeziforme (Fig. 332). 
Aglaomorpha Meyeniana (Fig. 355). 
Anemias, of sorts. 
Asplenium Nidus. 
Davallia fijiensis and varieties. 

Mooreana. 

polyantha. 

tenuifolia Veitchii. 
G-ymnogramme chrysophylla AJstonise. 



GjTnnogramme permiana argyrophylla. 

schizophylla gloriosa. 
Nephrolepis davallioides. 

d. furcans. 

rufescens tripinnatifida. 
Microlepia hirta cristata. 
Platycerium grande. 
Poh-podium Sclineiderii. 

sub-auriculatum (Fig. 34 1). 
Pteris ludens. 



Greenhouse Ferns for Exhibition. 



Adiantum cuneatum. 
c. grandiceps. 



Adiantum gracillimum. 



Veitchii. 



1^ 



Adiantum AVilliamsii. 
Asplenium laxum 

pumilum. 
Brainea insignis. 
Davallia bullata. 

IVermannii. 
Gleiclienia dicarpa 
longipinnata. 
flabellata. 
^Slendellii (Fig. 
356). 




Fig. 356. — Gleichenia Mendellii. 



speluiicae. 
Lomaria gibba. 

g. platyptera. 
]Microlepia platy- 

pbylla. 
Phegopteris efFusus. 
Polyp odium aureum. 
Pteris Drinkwaterii. 
longifolia Mariesii. 
scaberula. 
Woodwardia orien- 
talis. 
radicans and va- 
rieties. 



British Ferns (dwarf) for Exhibition. 



Adiantum Capillus- Veneris grande. 

C.-V. imbricatum. 
Asplenium fontanum (Fig. 334). 

septentrionale. 

Trichomanes confluens. 

T. cristatum. 

T. incisum. 
Athyrium Filix-foemina crispum. 

F.-f. Edwardsii. 

F.-f. Vernoniae cristatum. 
Blecbnum Spicant cristatum. 

S. Maunderii. 

S. plumosum. 



Blechnum Spicant trinen'O coronans. 
Cystopteris montana. 
Lastrea Filix-mas fluctuosa. 

montana ramo-coronans. 
Polypodium vulgare cristatum. 

V. elegantissimum. 

v. Fowlerii. 
Polystichum Lonchitis. 
Scolopendrium vulgare Coolingii. 

V. cristulatum. 

V. ramo-marginatum. 

V. scalariforme. 



ON FERNS. 



British Ferns (tall) for 

Ath}Tium Filix-foemina corjinbiferum. 

F.-f. Craiggii. 

F.-f. Fieldise. 

F.-f. plumosum. 

F.-f. todioides. 

F.-f. Victorise. 
Lastrea Filix-mas Bollandiae. 

F.-m. cristata. 

F.-m. fimbriata. 

F.-m. grandiceps. 

F.-m. ramosissima. 
Osmunda regalis cristata. 
Polypodium vulgare cambricum. 

Hardy Exotic Ferns for 

Adiantum pedatum (Fig. 330). 
Aspidium Goldieanum. 
Dicksonia pmictilobula. 
Lastrea corusca. 

er}'tlirosora. 
Lomaria chilensis. 

Hardy Ferns Suitable i 

Asplenium biforme. 
bulbiferum. 
Colensoi. 
foeniculaceiim. 
laxum pumilum. 
Nidus. 

■CjTtomium anomophyllum. 

falcatum. 

Fort unci. 
Davallia canariensis. 
Lastrea aristata variegata. 

atrata. 

Filix-mas cristata. 
lucida. 
2^ephrolepis exaltata. 

Hardy Ferns Suitable 

Adiantum Capillus - Veneris and 
varieties, 
affine. 

Hspidulum. 

reniforme. 

setulosuni. 
Asplenium alatum. 

Femandezianum. 

fragrans. 

Hemionitis. 

inequale. 

monanthemum. 

zeylanicum. 
Davallia bullata. 

canariensis. 



Exhibition. 

Polypodium vulgare pulcherrimum. 
Polystichum angulare cristatum. 

a. divisilobum decorum. 

a. plumosum. 

a. proliferum. 

a. p. Henleyse. 

a. rotundatum. 
Scolopendrium vulgare crispum. 

V. endivae folium. 

V. grandiceps. 

V. ramo-cristatum majus. 

V. Stablerae. 



Exhibition. 

Onoclea sensibilis. 

Osmunda cinnamomea (Fig. 358). 

gracilis. 

interrupta. 
Polystichum munitum. 
Struthiopteris pennsylvanica. 

• Dwelling^ Rooms. 

Nephrolepis tuberosa. 
Osmunda palustris. 
Polypodium aureum. 
Platycerium alcicorne (Fig. 353'. 
Polystichum capense. 

setosum. 
Pteris adiantifolia. 

cretica and varieties. 

longifolia. 

jNIayii. 

Ouvrardii. 

serrulata and varieties. 
Todea arborea. 
tremula. 
Wimsettii. 

r Ordinary Fern = Cases. 

Davallia novae-zelandiae. 

tenuifolia stricta, 
Doodia caudata. 
Lomaria alpina. 
Niphobolus lingua. 
Onychium japonicum, 
Pol}^odium Billardierii. 

Scoulerii. 

venosum. 
Polystichum setosum. 
Pteris cretica and varieties. 

intemata. 

semilata and varieties. 
Scolopendrium vulgare and varieties. 



570 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



For Outdoor Ferneries. 

Ferns growing from Jfiii. to I2in. 



in height. 



Allosorus acrostichoides. 

crispus. 
Aspidium nevadense. 
Asplenium adiantum nigrum. 

ebenum. 

Ruta-muraria. 

Tiichomanes, and varieties. 

viride. 

Athyrium Filix-foemina crispum. 
F.-f. Edwardsii. 




Blechnutn Spicant, and varieties. 
Ceterach officinarum (Fig. 335). 
Cystopteris bulbiferum. 

fragilis and other sorts. 
Lastrea Filix-mas crispa. 

rigida. 

Lomaria alpina (Fig. 357). 

crenulata. 
Phegopteris hexagonoptera. ' 
Pol}"podium Dr}-opteris (Fig. 336). 
Pol}-podium Phegopteris. 
Robertianum. 
^nlgare comubiense. 
V. elegantissimum. 
Polvstichum angulare Bavliae. 
a. pan'issimum. 
Lonchitis. 
Scolopendrium vulgare 



Coo- 



hngii. 



Fig. 357. — Lomaria alpina. 

Athyrium Fihx-foemina Findlayanum. 
F.-f. Frizellae. 
F.-f. minimum. 
F.-f. Vernoniae. 

Fer7is 

Aspidium cristatum. 

noveboracense. 

rigidum argutum. 
Asplenium Thelypteroides. 
Ath}'rium Filix-foemina, about fifteen 

varieties. 
Dennstaedtia punctilobula. 
Lastrea aemula. 

dilatata cristato gracile. 

d. lepidota. 

Filix-mas fluctuosa. 

F.-m. Crouchii. 

intermedia. 

marginale. 



montana. 
Thelypteris. 
Polypodium alpestre. 
a. flexile. 

Ferns 

Aspidium Clintonianum. 

spinulosum Boothii. 
Ath}Tium Filix-foemina, about eighteen 
varieties. 

Michauxii. 



cristulatum. 
densum. 
digitatum. 
endivaefolium. 
fissum. 
gi-andiceps. 
marginatum tenue. 
ramo-cristatum. 
Scolopendrium vulgare scalarifonne. 
Woodsia ilvensis. 

obtusa. 
"Woodwardia angustifolia. 

growing from ift. to 2ft. i?i height. 

Polypodium vulgare auritum. 
V. cambricum. 
V. crenatum. 
V. semilacerum. 
Polystichum acrostichoides. 
aculeatum. 
angulare acutilobum. 
a. cristatum. 
grandidens. 
imbricatum. 
proliferum. 
rotundatum. ' 
"Wollastonii. 
Scolopendrium vulgare capitatum. 
V. crisDum. 
V. multifidum. 



a. 
a. 
a. 
a. 
a. 



gi'OWing 



2ft. 



Woodwardia \irginica. 



high and iipivards. 

Lastrea dilatata and varieties, 
erythrosora. 

Filix-mas. about eighteen varieties. 
Goldieana. 
Lomaria chilensis. 



ON FERNS. 



Onoclea sensibilis. 

Osmunda cinnamomea (Fig. 358). 

gracilis. 

interrupta. 

regalis. 

r. cristata. 



Ferns for Cutting. 

Adiantum aemulum. 

amabile,* 

C apillus- Veneris . 

cuneatum. 

decorum. 

Farleyense . * 

fragrantissimum. * 

gracillimum. 

Pacotii. 

scutum.* 
jAsplenium Adiantum-nigrum. 

alatum. 
Davallia bullata. 



Polystichum angulare, about twelve 

varieties. 
Polystichum munitum. 
Pteris aquilina 

a. cristata. 
Struthiopteris germanica. 

pennsylvamca. 



Davallia dissecta.* 
d. elegans.* 
fijiensis.* 
Griffithiana.* 
tenuifolia. 
t. Veitchiana.* 
Tyermannii. 
Leucostegia immersa. 
Onychium japonicum. 
Osmunda palustris. 
Pteris cretica and varieties. 

serrulata and varieties. 
fPolystichum angulare and varieties. 



decora. 

Those marked * reqni7-e stove temperature ; those marked y are perfectly hardy. 






Fig. 358. — Osmunda cinnamomea. 




There is no branch of gardening that has made more rapid 
progress during the last half century than the cultivation of 
Orchids. With the facilitated steamship passage afforded by the 
present day, these gems of the forest may be translated in as 
many days as it used to take months ; and, by the means at 
disposal, after they arrive in this country, they are brought 
practically to the doors of our glasshouses for an outlay of less 
shillings than it would have cost pounds a few years ago. This 
increased facility, combined with better-arranged houses and the 
enlightenment of the grower, especially in the art of hybridisation, 
has led to the present popularity of the most interesting class of 
plants that Nature has presented to man. The principal draw- 
backs to the further and more general cultivation of Orchids are 
the utterly erroneous ideas that the initial expense is so great, 
that after the plants have been procured they require very 
special conditions under which to grow, and that a man with a 
special practical knowledge of their culture is indispensable. It 
is easy to refute the first of these objections by simply stating 
the fact that a selection of plants of the very finest species may 
be procured from any respectable nurseryman or at the weekly 
auction sales for the same sum that would purchase a collection 



ON ORCHIDS. 



573 



of Carnations, Geraniums, or any other class of stove or green- 
house plants. As to the special houses in which to grow them, 
there is no question that where the usual kinds of stove and 
greenhouse plants are cultivated, the possessor of the houses has 
the means at hand for the successful culture of Orchids. With 
regard to the gardener, any man with common sense has the 
required ability if he is a successful cultivator of stove and 
greenhouse plants ; there is no fear but that his sense of 
observation, with energy, will be sufficient to surmount all 
difficulties. There is a decided line to be drawn between 
having a useful and an interesting selection of Orchids, and, on 
the other hand, becoming the possessor of a vast collection, and 
making them a speciality. In the latter case, the skill of a 
thoroughly trained and experienced man is. of course, absolutely 
essential. 

In the cultural notes which follow the aim of the writer has 
been to set forth the conditions under which he has obtained 
the best results, in order to assist those who may need a 
little guidance ; but it must be borne in mind that there are no 
hard-and-fast lines in the cultivation of Orchids, any more than 
is the case with other plants. In many instances (some of 
which are cited further on) even a change of position in the 
same house has produced remarkable effects. This is pointed 
out in order to give encouragement, so that growers may 
endeavour to ascertain for themselves suitable conditions of 
culture, where those here advised may not have proved satis- 
factory. 

For convenience of reference this chapter has been divided 
into four sections : (i) Warm or Stove Orchids, (2) Intermediate 
House Orchids (warm and cool), (3) Cool Orchids, and (4) Hardy 
Orchids. 

In conclusion, the progress that has been achieved since 1853, 
through the art and perseverance of the hybridist, will be 
noticed ; while an extended list of desirable kinds will be found 
in the "Appendix." 

Warm or 5tove Orchids. 

The following require a temperature of yodeg. to 75deg. Fahr. 
in summer, and 65deg. Fahr. in winter, 

Arachnanthe. — This genus was originally introduced as 
Vandas, In A. Cathcartii and A. Lowii we have two of the 
most remarkable Orchids that have ever been brought into 



574 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



European gardens. They are usually considered difificult subjects 
to manage, but where they can be induced to grow satisfactorily 
they are most attractive, and thoroughly repay for the trouble 
incurred. When in blossom A. Cathcartii has flowers upwards 
■of 3in. in diameter, the sepals and petals pale yellow, crossed 
with numerous wavy reddish-brown bands ; the front lobe of the 
lip is pale yellow, and the side lobes are white streaked with 
red. The most satisfactory conditions under which I have found 
this species to grow are when attached to teak-wood cylinders, 
using a compost of sphagnum intermixed with clean broken 
crocks, giving the plants a position in the house where there are 
constant moisture and condensation about them throuo;hout the 
year. A. Lowii is one of the most remarkable Orchids in 
cultivation. It was discovered in Sarawak by Sir H. Low, by 
whom it was introduced to this country. The habit of growth 
resembles a gigantic Vanda, the leaves being from 24in. to 3oin. 
long. I have seen racemes of flowers on this species upwards 
of 14ft. in length, with the flowers at short intervals from its 
base to apex. The three lower flowers difl"er both in colour and 
in shape from the others, and form a striking contrast ; the 
sepals and petals are shorter, broader, and more fleshy than the 
ordinary ones, bright tawny yellow with some brown dots 
sprinkled over the surface. The ordinary flowers are 3in. in 
diameter ; the sepals and petals are undulated, rich chocolate- 
brown mottled with yellow ; the lip is yellow, lined and spotted 
with purple. The temperature and treatment should be the same 
as that recommended for Vandas. 

Vandas. — -There are no more graceful plants to be seen in any 
genera of Orchids than the common varieties of Vandas. A 
house full of these plants is always an attraction, even when not 
in flower ; and as they flower at different seasons of the year, 
where there are sufficient numbers grown it would be difficult 
to enter the house without finding something in blossom. They 
are among the most tractable species to cultivate, and should be 
grown to a far greater extent than they are at present. Vandas 
require a temperature of from 68deg. to yodeg. Fahr. fire-heat in 
summer, with a rise of from lodeg. to i5deg. with sun-heat; 
in winter a temperature of from 6odeg. to 65deg. Fahr. is 
sufficient. During the growing season (March to October) they 
require an abundance of moisture both at the roots and in the 
atmosphere. In bright weather, and when the outside conditions 
permit, free ventilation at the bottom is required. The top 
ventilators must be used with judgment for all warm houses, 
or the desired humidity of the atmosphere may not be 
retained. It is far better to bring the roof - blinds into use 
earlier than to have to resort to the use of the top ventilators. 
During the other months of the year, with the lower degree of 
temperature, very little moisture is required ; in fact, only 



ON ORCHIDS. 



575 



sufficient should be given to keep the plants from shrivelling 
and in a plump condition. This season of rest is when most of 
the Eastern sections of Orchids require the greatest care. I 
may be permitted to point out here that when alluding to plants 
resting (speaking of Orchids in general) I do not mean that 
they are to be cast on one side or placed on a shelf and to 
be subjected to the barbarous practice of being kept without 
water for an indefinite period. My experience has led me to 
believe that for resting purposes there is nothing like a low, dry 
temperature, which can be well maintained without injury to 




Fig. 359. — Vanda Sanderiana. 

the plants ; better growths can be procured, and far more 
satisfactory results obtained as regards flowering under the latter 
conditions. 

The best season for potting or top-dressing Vandas is at the 
end of February or the beginning of March. It is not desirable 
to repot plants of this section oftener than is really necessary. 
Only those that have become leggy and unsightly through loss 
of their basal foliage need shifting ; under such circumstances the 
plants should be cut dow^n, so that the basal leaves may be 
brought within a desirable distance from the rim of the pot. 



576 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Of course, this operation must be governed by the amount of 
roots the plant has below the lowest leaves. In repotting a 
clean pot should always be used. A layer of large crocks should 
be placed at the bottom, the plants then placed in position, and 
as many roots as possible got in. A stick sufficiently long and 
strong enough to sustain the plant should then be fixed. After 
this has been done, the whole of the space between the roots 
should be filled with clean broken crocks to within an inch or 
so of the top, filling the remainder with chopped sphagnum 
moss, slightly raised in the centre, and making it moderately 
firm with a stick in preference to using the fingers_, which 
latter practice has a tendency to turn the moss sour. Other 
plants that are well furnished with foliage to the base should 
not be turned out of the pots ; they should have all the sour 
material removed, and replaced with good living sphagnum moss 
and clean broken crocks, the whole being made moderately firm 
about the roots. After potting the plants should be thoroughly 
watered, using a moderately fine-rosed water-can. The water used 
is an essential consideration if it is desired to keep the moss 
in a green and growing condition in any class of Orchids. If 




Fig. 360. — Vanda teres. 



possible rain-water only should be employed. Hard water* soon 
has disastrous effects on the moss. 

The best varieties of Vandas to grow are those of the 
F. tricolor section, of which there are varied forms, and all are 
interesting. V. De7iisoniana is creamy-white, and a desirable kind ; 
V. cosrulea^ with its azure - blue flowers, is one of the finest in 



ON ORCHIDS. 



577 



the genus ; V. Batemannii {Stauropsis lissochiloides) is a gigantic 
species, with flowers brown- and yellow-barred in front and rose- 
pink at the back ; V. A^nesiana and V. KimbaHiana, with terete 
foliage, are both splendid kinds. Fig. 359 represents V. Sa?ideria?ta, 
the king of the genus, with huge flat flowers of brilliant hues — 
rose and yellow, heavily veined with rich purple. There are many 
other desirable kinds, but the above-mentioned are the most 
prominent. There are two others, viz., V. teres (Fig. 360) and 




Fig. 361.— Vanda Hookeriana. 

V. Hookeria7ia (Fig. 361), with cylindrical foliage, which to flower 
satisfactorily require a strong light, and should be grown at the 
end of a house, where they may be exposed to the full rays of 
the sun. They may be planted out thickly in a box, and 
trained up close to the roof-glass, the potting compost consisting 
of sphagnum and broken crocks. These species require constant 
syringing during the growing season, with a humid atmosphere ; 
but during the resting season little moisture is needed. 

Aerides are closely allied to the Vandas, and require similar 
treatment in most instances, the exception being A. japoiiicum^ 
which does best in a cool house, and A. crassifolium (one of 
the most beautiful of the genus, having deep rose-tinted flowers), 
which succeeds better when grown in a lighter position than is 
suitable to the bulk of the genus. This is a group of plants that 
at the present time have become scarce and valuable. For 
some unknown reason they have not been grown to the extent they 
deserve, consequently many trade establishments, finding there 
has been no sale for them, have replaced them by more saleable 
articles, with the result that many kinds are now difficult 

2 p 



578 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



subjects to procure ; but as they are gradually becoming more 
popular again, I trust importers may be induced to increase the 
stock of many of the choicest species. 

The finest Aerides ever introduced is A. Lawrencece 
(Fig. 362), I well remember the first plant of this 
flowering, and what a sensation it caused. When 
it was offered for sale at Stevens' Auction 
Rooms it realised 210 guineas. The purchaser 
was Sir Thomas Lawrence, and the species 

was dedicated to Lady 
Lawrence. 

The gigantic flowers are 
pure white with broad tips 
of bright rose-pink. A. 
Satiderianiim was imported 
with A, Laivreucece, and is 
a variety of that species, 
the only distinction being 
that the white ground is 
replaced by a creamy- 
yellow in A. Saiidei'icuium. 
A. crispujji is a lovely 
species, deserving of a 
place in every collection. 
A, falcatum and its several 
forms are desirable. A. 

(the Fox Brush) 
one of the most popular 
of its section. A. odoratum^ 
one of the oldest known 
Orchids in cultivation, and 
many others are well 
worthy of mention, but 
for these the reader is 
referred to the "Appen- 
dix." 

Angr^cum. — This is a 
most interesting genus of 
plants, of peculiar structure, 
their tail-like protrusions 
giving them an appearance 
that cannot fail to , attract. 
Undoubtedly the finest spe- 
cies is A. sesquipedale (Fig. 
363), a plant in which the 
interest. It has waxy-white 
with a tail of the same 
it is easy of culture, and 




Fieldingii 



IS 



Fig. 362. — Aerides Lawrence.5£ 

took 



late Charles Darwin 
flowers upwards of 6in. in 
colour often upwards of ift. 



a special 
diameter, 
in 



length 



ON ORCHIDS. 



579 



should be represented in every collection. A. eburneiim is 
the most gigantic of the genus, and possesses a robust con- 
stitution. The above two species, owing to their proportions, 
are best accommodated in pots, requiring similar treatment to 
that recommended for Vandas. All the other members of the 
genus in cultivation are practically of miniature habit, and suit- 
able for basket culture, suspended from the roof. The most 




Fig. 363. — Angr^cum sesquipedale. 



attractive sorts . are A. Ellisii (Fig. 364), A. citratu7n, A. fashiosuj?i, 
A. Leonis (A. Hiimblotii), A. modestiim, and the terete-leaved 
A. Scottiamim. The potting compost should be the same as 
that recommended for Vandas. 

Saccolabium is another genus that requires similar treatment 
to that recommended for Vandas. One of the best of the 
species is >5. Blumei {^Rhynchostylis retusa). It is of free habit, 

2 p 2 



58o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and very attractive. The flowers are white, spotted with pink, 
and are produced on racemes i2in. or more in length. 
S. {Rhyjichostylis) cxleste is one of the most beautiful of the 
section, its flowers — light blue, suffused w4th a darker shade — being 
very attractive. Unfortunately it is of delicate constitution, does 




Fig. 364. — Angilscum Ellisii. 

not submit readily to culture, and requires considerable care. A 
suspended position close to the roof-glass suits it best. S. bellinum 
is a pretty, dwarf-growing species, having frosty-white and green 
flowers, spotted with purple. S. ampullaceum^ a pretty species with 
rose-coloured flowers ; S. cu?'vifolium^ a very attractive species, 
with rich scarlet flow.ers; S. giga?itawi, as its name implies, the 



ON ORCHIDS. 



S8i 



largest of the section ; and S. Harrisonianum (now regarded as a 
variety of S. violaceiim), with pure white flowers, are all worthy of 
consideration. The whole section is suitable for basket culture. 

Phal^nopsis. — These are far more frequently met with in 
perfection in stoves growing with other plants, where there 'is no 
pretension to cultivating Orchids, than in places where there are 
valuable collections. In fact, in very few indeed of our 
prominent collections do we find the plants in a satisfactory 
condition. From an incident that happened in the collection 
of which I have charge I have come to the conclusion that the 
principal difficulty as regards their culture is to find a position 
suitable to their requirements. If this can be done there is 
no need for manuring, special appliances, or cultural skill to 
attain desirable results. This may be gathered from the following 
facts : Five years ago the plants of Phalaenopsis under my care 
were in such a dilapidated state that I suggested to my employer 
to either dispose of them or allow me to remove them to another 
house, for they had lost leaves as fast as they made them, while 
others were cut asunder where they had been attacked by the 
dreaded "spot," so fatal to this genus. It was decided to try 
them in another house, to which they were all immediately 
removed, with the exception of two plants which had no leaves 
on, but still showed some life in the crowns. These were hung 
on one of the crossbars of the roof, more to be out of sight 
than for any other reason, as very little hope was entertained of 
their recovery. The bulk of the plants removed did not seem 
to make much progress in their new quarters, but to my 
surprise one day, when looking through the plants in the old 
house, I discovered that both those left hanging had started 
into active growth, one having broken afresh with two growths. 
These went on so satisfactorily that ultimately it was decided 
to bring the whole of the plants back again, and to suspend 
them from the roof, they having previously been arranged on 
the staging, not more, in many cases, than a few inches below 
where they at present hang. The result has been that they 
have gone on satisfactorily ever since, and are now one of the 
chief features of the collection. No special treatment in any 
way is adopted with them ; they are dipped in a pail of water 
when they require moisture at the roots. A temperature is 
maintained with fire-heat in summer from yodeg. to 75deg. Fahr., 
and in winter to 65deg. The potting, or top-dressing, as may 
be required, is done in May, as the plants then begin to show 
signs of activity, using for the purpose good living sphagnum 
moss. The plants are not rebasketed oftener than is really 
necessary, it being sufficient, providing the basket is sound, to 
remove all decayed material and replace it with new, pressing 
the same firm with a pointed stick. After they have been so 
treated they are thoroughly soaked with soft rain-water, and 



582 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



are not again watered until the potting compost has become 
dry. The plants by this time show signs of making new leaves, 
and only require to be kept moist at the roots, until with 
shortening days the temperature in the houses is reduced. The 
flower-spikes by that time have made their appearance, and 
consequently the watering is carefully attended to until these 
have been removed, after which only sufficient moisture is given 
to prevent the plants from shrivelling until the potting season 
returns. 

The showiest sorts are : P. Aphrodite {amabilis, Lindl.) (Fig. 
365, c), one of the best, with white flowers, except a little purple 




B 

Fig. 365. — (a) Phal^nopsis Schilleriana, (b) Phal^nopsis 
Stuartiana, (c) Phal^nopsis Aphrodite. 



on the base of the lower sepals and a little yellow on the lip. 
P. grandi/lora, as its name implies, is a noble plant, deserving 
of every attention ; its white flowers are produced during the 
summer months. P. Scliille?ia?ta (Fig. 365, a) is one of the most 
useful, producing its rose-tinted flowers in the dead of winter. 
There are several others of this section, such as P. Stuartiana 
(Fig. 365, b), p. hucorhoda casta (Fig. 366), and the numerous 
Veitchiana hybrids in the way of P, intermedia. In the dwarf- 
growing section P. violacea^ P. Luddemanniana, P. speciosa, and 
others are interesting and useful. 

BoLLEA, Pescatorea, and Warscewiczella. — These are some- 
what difficult subjects to deal with, but when a place suitable 



ON ORCHIDS. 



to their requirements is found, the difificulties are readily sur- 
mounted. I grow them satisfactorily in a shady, damp corner 
of the Phalaenopsis-house. The plants are placed in baskets, 
raised from the stage by means of inverted pots, the potting 
compost consisting of good fibrous peat and sphagnum moss 




Fig. 366. — Phal^nopsis leucorhoda casta. 



(two parts of the latter to one part of the former). They require 
an abundance of water during the growing period, and on no 
account must the plants be allowed to suffer from lack of 
moisture at the roots at any season of the year. Pescatorea 
Lehinan7ii is a handsome species. The sepals and petals are 
white, with numerous parallel lines of rich purple. The lip is 



584 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



mauve-purple, with numerous coarse purplish hairs in the centre. 
There are many others in this section worth growing, but space 
does not permit of their being dealt with here. 

Ancectochilus and Goodyera. — These also are usually 
difficult subjects to deal with. As they are grown principally 
for their foliage, and require special appliances, they do not 
recommend themselves to general cultivation. The plants 
require a frame or case covered with glass affixed to the staging, 
and the atmosphere within kept almost at saturation point of 
humidity throughout the year. The potting compost should 
consist of good fibrous peat and living sphagnum in equal pro- 
portions, to which should be added a free sprinkling of broken 
. crocks. A. Lowii is one of the best of the Anoectochili, but 
there are several other interesting species. 

BuLBOPHYLLUM is rather a genus of special interest to 
botanists as curiosities, than to the average Orchid-fancier. 
The plants are quaint and wonderful. Their usual dwarf 
habits and preference for light positions make them suitable 
subjects for basket culture, so that they may be suspended from 
the roof in a compost of fibrous peat and sphagnum. They 
require a humid atmosphere and strong heat when growing, but 
are benefited by cooler quarters during the season of rest. 

Calanthes. — The deciduous section of this beautiful winter- 
flowering genus are perhaps more generally grown than any 
other species of Orchids, and they adapt themselves readily 
to cultivation in almost every garden where stove accom- 
modation exists. The plants should be repotted directly 
they show signs of activity by starting from the base of the last- 
made growths. The pots as to size must be governed by the 
strength of the plant ; they should be filled one-third of 
their depth with clean, broken crocks, the potting compost 
consisting of rich fibrous loam and peat in equal proportions, 
to which may be added a liberal supply of dried cow-manure 
and a free sprinkling of rough sand. Calanthes are best 
grown on a shelf close to the roof - glass. They require 
very little water at the roots until the growths have got away 
and the roots have taken hold of the material. They should 
then be more liberally treated and have every encouragement, 
and should not be allowed to become dry until the flower- 
spikes have been removed, after which they may be rested until 
the potting season returns, only sufficient water being given to 
keep the bulbs in a plump condition. Calanthes may be had in 
various colours, undoubtedly the finest of all being the lovely 
hybrid raised in the collection of Baron Schroeder, after whom 
it is named. The evergreen section is not so popular as the 
deciduous class, but is very interesting. The plants require 
similar treatment to that recommended lor Phaius. 



ON ORCHIDS. 



5^5 





Dendrobiums. — At the present time there are no species of 
Orchids so much in demand as the Dendrobiums, amongst the 
most beautiful and, in most cases, easily cultivated of the 
Orchidece. There are at the present time nearly one hundred 
species, and an equal number of garden hybrids are in 
cultivation. Considering the wide area from which the species 
are derived, 
it is not sur- 
prising that 
there is a 
great differ- 
ence in their 
habit of 
growth. Some 
have small 
wiry bulbs, 
while others 
have growths 
of gigantic 
proportions. 
D. siiperbiens^ 
native of 
tropical Aus- 
tralia, repre- 
sents one of 
the sections 
which of late 
years have 
come into pro- 
minence by 
the re-intro- 
duction of D. 
Fhalcenopsis 
(Fig. 367), one 
of the most 
wonderful and 
beautiful 
species 
known. The 
flowers are 

produced in racemes, and the colour is found in all shades from 
paper-white to rich purple and crimson, thus giving it preference 
over all the species of the genus. One of the grandest sights ever 
witnessed was that in the collection of Baron Schroeder, where 
upwards of 500 spikes of flowers were to be seen some time 
ago. To grow this section satisfactorily it is advisable to afford 
strong light and a hot, humid atmosphere during the growing 
season, with a cooler and drier atmosphere during the period of 







Fig. 367, — Dendrobium Phal^nopsis. 



ON ORCHIDS. 



rest. The plants are best grown in pans suspended from the 
roof. 

The other two sections of Dendrobiums, viz., the deciduous 
and the evergreen, may be grown by anyone in possession of a 
stove or vinery. Some of the most remarkable cultural examples 
of D. 7wbile (Fig. 368) I have seen were in a market-garden, 
growing with and under similar conditions to the vines. There 
is no reason whatever why many others of the Eastern section 
should not succeed under the same conditions. As plants of 




Fig, 369. — Dexdrobium Dearei. 



both sections can now be procured in variety by the outlay of a 
few shillings, they should be far more generally grown. D. infn7idi- 
Mdum is a lovely white and yellow-flowered sort that succeeds 
best when grown with the Odontoglossums. 

Those in possession of a house that can be specially set 
apart for Dendrobium culture enjoy considerable advantages. 
The temperature must be maintained at stove-heat from the 
time when the plants commence to push their flower- buds into 
prominence till the new growths are matured. The atmosphere 



588 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



must also be kept in a humid condition during the season of 
activity by constantly syringing the plants overhead in bright 
weather, and by continually damping the floors and staging. As 
they require strong light to properly mature their growths, only 
sufficient shading is necessary to prevent scorching of the foliage. 
I have always found it best to remove the plants from their 
quarters, as soon as the growths are sufficiently matured, to drier 
and cooler positions. This prevents premature growth, enables 
the plants to ripen their growths properly, and so prepares them 
for the flowering season. 

The best season for repotting is directly after the flowers 
have been removed. The receptacles should be only just large 
enough to properly hold the plants, so that as little compost as 
possible may be used (only sufficient to properly secure the 
plants is needed), the compost consisting of one part of fibrous 
peat and two parts of sphagnum. Plenty of drainage and a 
few broken crocks are desirable to keep the compost in a sweet 
and porous condition. After potting the plants should be 
thoroughly wetted, which will be sufficient to sustain them for 
some time. Too much moisture at the roots must be avoided 
until the new growths get well away and the young roots appear, 

when they re- 
quire more 
liberal treat- 
ment. 

The number 
of desirable 
species and 
hybrids are so 
great that I 
would advise 
those desirous 
of forming a 
collection to 
visit some of 
the large nur- 
series during 
the months of 
February, 
March, April, 
and May. They 
will then be 
able to select 
such forms as 

may suit their taste. Fig. 369 represents D. Dea?'ei, which may 
faithfully be termed a perpetual grower, and must therefore be 
treated accordingly. The flowers are pure white, except the base 
of the lip, which is pale green. This species lasts several months 




Fig. 370. — Dendrobium formosum giganteum. 



i 



ON ORCHIDS. 



in perfection after expanding its flowers. The lovely D. formostim 
giganteum (Fig. 370) is one of the most beautiful and useful 
Orchids in cultivation, and its exquisite large white and yellow 
flowers being produced in the late summer and autumn months 




Fig. 371. — Dendrobium thyrsiflorum. 

(when flowers of all description are scarce) adds further to its value. 
It requires highly humid and hot conditions during the period of 
growth, with the full benefit of the sun's rays. A fig or forcing- 
house suits it admirably. It should be suspended near the roof-glass. 

The evergreen section, to which D. thyrsiflorum (Fig. 371) 
belongs, is a lovely one, and may be grown under similar con- 
ditions to those suggested for the deciduous section, with the 
exception that a little more warmth must be afforded during the 
resting period, or the foliage is liable to become spotted. There 
are numerous interesting varieties which flower through the 
summer months, and these are worthy of every consideration. 

Renanthera. — Owing to its shy-flowering qualities, this genus 
is not grown to any great extent. There are only three species 
which merit attention : R. coccinea, R. Sforiei, and the dwarf- 
growing R. Imschootiana. These should be grown under similar 
conditions to those advised for Dendrobium, as they require 
strong light to flower satisfactorily. 

Peristeria and Phaius. — I have coupled these two genera 
as they require practically similar treatment. With the exception 
of Phaius tubercuiosus, all are suitable for ordinary stove culture. 
I'he potting compost should consist of good fibrous peat and 
sphagnum, to which may be added a liberal mixture of turfy 



59° 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



loam and rough sand. The plants are mostly gross feeders, and 
require a fair amount of pot room. The pots should be drained 
to one-third their depth. Phaius tube?'cuIosus is rather a diffi- 
cult subject, requiring a position near the glass, the atmospheric con- 
ditions of a Phalcenopsis house, and a potting compost of peat 
and living sphagnum moss. Fig. 372 represents P. XoTman^ a 
hybrid between P. Sanderia7uis and P. tnherailosiis. Peristeria 
data (the Dove or Holy Ghost Orchid), when in flower, is always 

a subject of admiration. 

Nis {£)endrochilu??i). 
nother lovely Orchid, 
:ove culture. There 
several species, the 
being P. glumacea^ 
racemes of creamy- 
flowers. Its per- 
is delightful, two or 
three spikes being 
sufficient to scent a 
house. It requires 
a compost of peat 
and sphagnum, and 
a well-drained and 
shallow receptacle 
suits it best. 

Paphinia and 
Promencea.- — These 
are dwarf - srowms: 
kinds suitable for 
hanging purposes. 
They produce their 
quaint flowers during 
the summer months, 
and these, though 
small, are v e r v 
attractive. The 
potting compost 
should consist of good peat and sphagnum. The plants 
require a moist position in the temperature of the East Indian 
house. 

Grammatophyllum is a somewhat unsatisfactory genus to deal 
with. It is very unusual to meet with a plant in vigorous con- 
dition that has been imported many years. I find G. {Gram77iangis) 
Ellisii the most satisfactory : grown in a basket suspended from 
the roof of the East Indian house. The potting compost consists 
of two parts fibrous peat to one part sphagnum. These are an 
interesting class of plants, and worthy of consideration, as 




ON ORCHIDS. 



most of the forms grow and flower freely for a few years, 
G. speciosiun being the exception. This is a species of gigantic 
proportions. A specimen may be seen at Kew in one corner 
of the Victoria House tank, where it has been grown for years 
without flowering. 

Epidendrum (Diacrium) bicornutu:\i has lovely white flowers, 
spotted with purple, and is one of the most desirable Orchids 
when well cultivated. It requires a strong light with a liberal 
supply of heat and moisture during the growing season, and 
should have a position in close proximity to the roof-glass. 

Oncidium. — There are several species of this genus that require 
stove treatment. One of the most attractive is the Butterfly 
Orchid, O. Fapilio. Oncidiums should be grown in as small a 
receptacle as possible in a compost of peat and moss. O. anipli- 
atum, O. Kramerianuin^ O. Lanceamim^ and others of this section 
should be similarly treated. 

MiLTONiA RoEZLii (Fig. 373) and M. Phalcehopsis require the 
warm-house treatment and a compost similar to that recommended 




Fig. 373. — MiLTONiA Roezlit. 



for Miltonias in the cooler section. A shelf against the back 
wall of a stove, with a board fixed in front, so that the plants may 
be plunged to two-thirds the depths of their pots in living 
sphagnum, suits them admirably. If placed on the stages it 
will be found advantageous to put a good amount of moss 



592 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



between the pots. The plants require a Hberal amount of hght, 
but they must be sheltered at all times from the direct rays of 
the sun. 

Intermediate House Orchids. 

I have thought it best to further split up this section, 
namely, into the warm inter77iediate (requiring a temperature 
of 65deg. to 68deg. in summer, and 58deg. to 6odeg. in winter), 
and the cool ifiter??iediate (6odeg. in summer, and 55deg. in winter 
with fire-heat). As these plants are principally natives of tropical 
South America, and form several classes of the most beautiful 
and popular Orchids in cultivation, I will endeavour to note in 
the following pages the most desirable amongst them. 

AciNETA. — This is a quaint genus, the species of which should 
be grown in baskets, as the flowers are produced on pendulous 
spikes, which often push their way through the potting compost 
and make their appearance through the bottom bars of the 
basket. They require the temperature of the cool intermediate 
house, and a potting compost similar to that recommended for 
Stanhopea. 

Anguloa. — This is a most attractive and useful genus ot 
plants suitable for cool intermediate house treatment. Most 
of them are free growing and possess a robust constitution. 
They require similar potting compost to that recommended for 
Lycaste. The most useful varieties are A. Clowesii, A. Ruckerii, 
and A. uniflora. They require a liberal supply of moisture 
during the growing season and until the growths are matured, 
after which only sufficient should be given to maintain the bulbs 
in a plump condition. 

Ansellia africana. — This African species requires the 
temperature of the warm house. It has long Dendrobium-like 
growths. The potting compost should consist of two parts 
fibrous peat and one part of sphagnum moss. A fairly moist 
atmosphere is required throughout the year. 

Arpophyllum giganteum is more of botanical interest than 
otherwise. It requires treatment similar to that recommended 
for Cattleya. 

Barkeria. — The several species of this genus require full 
exposure to the sun's rays to induce them to flower satisfactorily. 
The Mexican house, with Lcelia aiiceps, suits them best. 

Brassavola is now classed under L^lia. 

Burlingtonia. — A dwarf-growing species, suitable for basket 
culture in the warm intermediate house. 

Catasetum. — A genus of plants always attractive and interesting. 
There are numerous sorts. They should be grown in baskets 



ON ORCHIDS. 



593 



suspended close to the roof-glass. They require the warm 
intermediate house, with plenty of moisture while growing; but 
drier and cooler conditions are required for the resting season. 
The potting compost should consist of two parts of peat and one 
part of sphagnum. 

Cattleya. — This is no doubt the most attractive and popular 
of all the Orchid genera, the various and beautiful tints in the 
different species being always appreciated. Where a house can 
be devoted to the culture of Cattleyas and Lselias it is possible 
to obtain a succession of flowers throughout the year, commencing 
in January with C. Triance. This is followed by C. Lawrenceana, 



Fig. 374. — Cattleya Mossle Reineckiana. 

C. citrina, C. Mendelii, and C. Mossice (Fig. 374 represents 
C. Mossice _Rei?ieckiana, one of its white forms) ; these are 
succeeded by C. Warscewiczii {gigas)^ C. War?ieri, C. Gaskelliana^ 
and C. Loddigesii^ which in turn are followed by such sorts as 
C Schofieldia7ia, C. Dowia?ia, C. bicoior, and C. Eldorado : while 
the year may be closed with the now cheaply procured C. labiata 
aiitiuiinalis. The habitat of this last Cattleya was lost for 
upwards of forty years, and its re-discovery has brought^ with it 

2 Q 



594 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



colour variety which a few years ago one would never have 
thought of. Some of the white forms are the most beautiful and 
valuable Cattleyas in cultivation. Numerous species not included 
in the above list would also help to fill up the different seasons 
•of the year, and many of them are equal in beauty to those 
already named. There are also the hybrids, both natural and 
artificial. As these have the intermediate characters of the 




Fig. 375. — Cycnoches chlorochilon. 



species from which they have been derived, so their blossoms are 
produced at intermediate times, according to the natural flowering 
seasons of the parent species. The hybrid Cattleyas and Lselias 
now number some 300, they having increased since 1895 
something like 80 per cent, and they are likely to continue 
increasing for many years to come, owing to the fact that 
hybridisation is gaining favour in almost every collection of 
Orchids throughout the world. 



ON ORCHIDS. 



595 



These Cattleyas require warm intermediate house treatment. 
The potting compost should consist of good fibrous peat and a 
little sphagnum. The pots should be drained sufficiently high 
to leave the base of the leading bulbs raised si ghtly above 
the edge of the pots. The material must be pressed firmly 
about the base of the growths so that the plants may be made 
.secure in the pots. The best season for repotting is when the 




Fig. 376. — Cypripedium insigne Sander.^:. 



"new roots make their appearance from the base of the newly- 
made growths. If done at this stage, the plants soon get hold 
•of the new material, and so become established in their fresh 
quarters. Water must be given with discretion, the supply being 
governed by the particular situation, construction of the house, 
-and atmospheric surroundings both inside and out. These con- 
ditions are best ascertained on the spot. Any difficulties in this 
.respect may be quickly overcome by an observant cultivator. 

2 Q 2 



596 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Imported plants may be potted up as soon as received, but it 
is as well to use only crocks to secure the plants until rooting 
commences ; the top crocks may then be removed and replaced 
by the material advised above. Sticks sufficiently strong 
should be affixed, so that the plants may be held in position 
until they have become established in the potting material. 
This plan also adds to the neatness and appearance of the 
plants if carefully done. Very little water is required at the 

roots when the plants 
first arrive — only suffi- 
cient should be given 
to maintain the bulbs in 
a plump condition — 
but after rooting has 
commenced they may 
be more liberally 
treated. 

As regards procuring 
Cattleyas, the most satis- 
factory and interesting 
way is to buy imported 
plants. The majority of 
species grow and flower 
freely for a few years, 
often under most un- 
favourable conditions ; 
so that those inclined 
will be enabled to ascer- 
tain during that period 
the requirements neces- 
sary for their successful 
culture. There is also a 
great amount of interest 
to be derived from 
watching the plants 
develop their growths : 
this increases after 

Fig. 377.— Cypripedium callosum maturity, and when the 

Sandeeje. flowers are out of the 

sheaths, each one being 
anxiously watched in the expectation of forms of sterling . 
merit making their appearance. Such forms are just as 
likely to turn up with the humble buyer as they are in 
experienced hands, for no one can tell what a particular 
plant may turn out until it flowers. It has been my good 
fortune to procure a white form of Cattleya labiata^ as imported^ 
for less than ids., which has already realised considerably over 
100 guineas. 




ON ORCHIDS. 



597 



Chysis is a lovely genus, requiring warm intermediate house 
treatment, the potting compost consisting of the usual mixture 
of peat and moss. 

CiRRHOPETALUMS. — There are several sorts of this botanically 
interesting genus which are worthy of consideration by those 
interested in this class of plants. They may be accommodated in 
the two sections of the intermediate house temperatures, and are 
suitable for pan or basket culture suspended from the roof. 




Fig. 378. — Cypripediumi Rothschildianum. 

CcELOGYNE. — This is a popular genus, the most useful species 
of which are too well known to need description here. The 
C. cristata forms may be successfully cultivated in the cool 
intermediate house, and should receive every consideration. The 
potting compost should be equal parts of peat and sphagnum. 

Cycnoches (Swan Orchids) are interesting and highly-perfumed 
species, requiring similar treatment to that recommended for 
Catasetums. Fig. 375 represents C. chio7'ockiIo?i, one of the 
finest, with yellow flowers. 



598 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Cymbidium. — This is one of the most interesting and useful 
genera of cultivated Orchids, and requires cool intermediate house 










Fig, 379. — Cypripedium Arthurianum. 



treatment. The potting compost should consist of two parts of 
good fibrous peat and one part of loam, to which may be added 



ON ORCHIDS. 



599 



a free sprinkling of rough sand or finely-broken crocks. As the 
plants are gross feeders during the growing season, every pre- 
caution must be taken to keep the soil in a free and open con- 
dition. I'here are numerous species and hybrids, from the pure 
white C. eburneum to the wonderful C. Tracyanum with deep 
brown-spotted and lined flowers. The racemes of the latter 
produce upwards of twenty flowers, each blossom measuring more 
than 6in. in diameter, 
C. TracyanufJi, with 
C. Loivtanum, C. gigan- 
teum, C. grandifloriim^ 
and others of this sec- 
tion last in perfection 
for weeks, and are 
most useful even when 
cut for decorative pur- 
poses. The whole 
section is most tract- 
able under cultivation, 
and worthy of every 
consideration. 

Cypripediums are 
divided into two sec- 
tions : the Eastern, 
known as Cypripedium 
proper, and the Western, 
termed Selenipedium. 
Attempts have been 
made of late to sub- 
divide these into several 
other genera; but as 
both the Eastern and 
Western sections thrive 
admirably together, the 
general term Cypripe- 
dium answers all 
requirements that are 
needed here. These 
plants cannot be too 
highly recommended. Fig. 380.— Cypripedium regina. 

Though not so attrac- 
tive as the Cattleyas, they have other qualities which more than 
atone for their shortcoming in this respect. There are now nearly 
1000 distinct species and hybrids in cultivation ; these flower at 
different seasons of the year, and many of them last months in 
perfection. It is possible with a little consideration to have 
Cypripediums in flower the whole year through. Many of them 
are highly interesting, and may be procured at reasonable prices ; 




6oo 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



it is only the scarce kinds that fetch high prices. By the outlay 
of a few pounds a collection may be procured that will give 
flowers throughout the year. This fact cannot be too firmly 
impressed upon the amateur, as the articles that are constantly 
appearing in the lay Press on the subject of "valuable plants" 
are so ridiculous and liable to mislead those not acquainted 
with the value of Orchids. 

With but few exceptions the most suitable place for the culture 
of Cypripediums is the cool intermediate house. They are best 
grown in well-drained pots or pans, using a potting compost 
of two parts peat and one part sphagnum. They require a 
liberal amount of moisture throughout the year, both at the 
roots and in the atmosphere. Space here does not allow of a 
selection being made : a visit to a good collection will be the 




Fig. 381. — Cypripedium Chapmanii magnificum. 



best guide in choosing desirable varieties. Many of the species 
and varieties are sufficiently hardy to be cultivated successfully in a 
cool greenhouse. Fig. 376 represents the well-known C. insigne 
SandercB, one of the most beautiful of the yellow Cypripediums ; 



ON ORCHIDS. 



6oi 



it does well in the cool house. C. callosum Sanderce is 
another albino, represented in Fig. 377. Fig. 378 represents 
C. Rothschildianum^ undoubtedly the finest species among 
the so-called New Guinea section of Cypripediums. It has 




Fig. 382. — Cypripedium Godefroy^ leucochilum. 



proved a most useful subject for hybridisation purposes. Fig. 379 
represents C. Arthurianum^ and Fig. 380 C. regina, which 
belong to the C. Fairieaniim section of hybrids, and must 
remain among the most valuable of hybrid Orchids, as the last- 
mentioned species has become practically extinct, and baffles 
all the efforts of collectors to re-discover its habitat. Fig. 381 
represents C. Chapmanii magnijlcum, a unique hybrid of the 
C. bellatulum section, and Fig. 382 shows C. Godefroyce leucochilum^ 
one of the finest of the natural hybrids. Fig. 383 represents 
C. iySelenipedimn) caudatum, the best species of the Western 
section. The tail-like pendulous petals often attain upwards of 
3oin. in length. For fuller list see " Appendix." 

Cyrtopodium requires the warm intermediate house during 
the growing season, with cooler treatment during the season of 



602 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

rest. The usual compost of peat and moss may be used as 
potting material. 

Epi-Cattleyas and Epi-L^elias are bigeneric hybrids derived 
from species of the genera indicated by their names. They 
should be cultivated with the Cattleyas. 

Epidendrums. — There are many species among this vast 




Fig. 383.— Cypripedium (Selenipedium) caudatum. 



genus that are suitable for intermediate temperatures ; they are, 
with few exceptions, very easy of culture, while their varied 
colour-shades recommend them to consideration. They require 
the usual potting compost, with a liberal supply of moisture 
during the growing season. 



ON ORCHIDS. 



603 



Epiphronitis Veitchii is a bigeneric hybrid between Epiden- 
drum radicans and Sophronitis grandiflora that should be 
included in every collection. It has rich scarlet flowers, and 
requires cool intermediate house treatment. 

L^LiAS are only distinguished from Cattleyas by the pollen- 
masses, and, with the exception of L. anceps and the L. autiim?ialis 
section, all may be cultivated under similar conditions, although 
L. purpuraia succeeds better when grown a few degrees warmer. 
L Digbya7ia (Fig. 384) is one of the most distinct Orchids in 
cultivation. To be successful with L. anceps^ a strong light is 
absolutely necessary ; it wnll stand, with free ventilation, the full 
power of the sun's rays. The plant requires an abundance of 
moisture, with strong heat during the growing season, and must 




Fig. 384. — L^LiA Digbyana. 

not be allowed to suffer from want of water until the flower- 
spikes have been removed, after which a long rest, with a cool 
temperature and dry atmosphere, is necessary, during which time 
little moisture is required at the roots. There are many hand- 
some forms, varying from deep rose -purple to the purest white. 
They flower through the dead of winter, and are always appre- 
ciated. Fig. 385 represents L. a. IVaddoftensis, one of the most 
beautiful of the white section. Fig. 386 shows a fine plant 
of Z. a. Sajideriana, grown in the Highbury collection of the 
Right Hon. J. Chamberlain. 

L^lio-Cattleyas are the hybrids derived from intercrossing 
species of the two genera indicated by the name, and succeed with 



6o4 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



similar treatment to that recommended for Cattleyas. L.-C. 
Thor7ito7iii (Fig. 387) is derived from the intercrossing of 
C. Gaskelliana and L. Digbya?ia. The characteristic fringe 
around the labellum in the last-named species is inherited to a 
lesser degree by the offspring. These hybrids are very distinct, 
and are among the most valuable of the Cattlej^a family of 
hybrids. 

Lycaste. 
of plants, 



— This is a 
suitable for 





most useful, varied, and beautiful genus 
cool intermediate house culture. They 
flower at different seasons 
and last for some weeks in 
perfection. The most popular 
among the many species is 
L. Skiimeri. This varies 
considerably in colour, and 
may be had with deep rose- 
purple sepals and petals and 
rich crimson-pur- 
ple lip, varying in 
shades to the 
pure white L. S. 
alba (Fig. 388). 
This species and 
its varieties pos- 
sess robust con- 
stitutions. Thev 
grow well in the 
cool house during 
the hottest 
months of the 
year, but require 
temperature a few 
degrees warmer 
during the win- 
ter. L. aromatica, 
L. cruenta, L. 
Deppei, and the 
free-flowering L. 
plaiia are all best 
grown as advised 

above. The section to which Z. Cobbea?ia, L. giga?itea, L. Ia?iipes, 
&c., belong, are best suited with the intermediate house treat- 
ment throughout the year. 

Lycastes require a liberal 
moisture during the growing 

and therefore only need sufficient moisture during the 
season to maintain the bulbs in a plump condition 
best done in the spring, just as the plants commence to 






Fig. 385. — L.^:lia anceps Waddonensis. 



supply of water and atmospheric 
season. They are semi-deciduous, 



restmg 



Potting 



is 
srow, 



ON ORCHIDS. 



605 



using for the purpose a compost of two parts good fibrous peat 
and one part fibrous loam and sphagnum, to which may be 
added a liberal sprinkling of rough sand. The compost should 
be made moderately firm about the base of the plant. The pots 
used should be thoroughly cleaned and half-filled with clean 
broken crocks, thereby carefully avoiding any possibility of 
stagnation. 




Fig. 386. — L.ELiA anceps Sanderiaxa. 



Maxillarias. — These are closely allied to the Lycastes, and 
require similar treatment. 

MiLTONiA.— The bulk of the species require the cool inter- 
mediate treatment. The most popular is M. vexillaria (Fig. 389), 
which flowers during the summer months. It does well in the 
cool house during the summer, but requires a few degrees warmer 
treatment during the winter. Potting should be done just when 
the spikes are about to make their appearance, as this is the 



6o6 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

rooting season. The young roots quickly get away into the 
material, and few ill effects are observed. The most critical 
season is immediately after the flower-spikes have been removed, 
and just when the new growths are starting ; if great care is not 
then taken in the matter of moisture at the roots the plants 
spot or damp off, and become completely rotten in a few hours. 
It is best to keep the plants at this season in a practically 
friable condition at the roots, affording sufficient atmospheric 
moisture to maintain them nice and plump. Sufficient ventila- 
tion must be given to keep the temperature as even as possible. 





Fig. 387. — LyELio-CATTLEYA Thorntonii. 

Shading must also be attended to carefully during the summer 
months. 

Many of the other sections of Miltonias are well worthy ot 
attention. Those belonging to M. spectabilis are best grown 
suspended from the roof. 

Nanodes (Epidendrum) Medus/e, I find, does best suspended 
from the roof of a cool intermediate house. 

Oncidium. — As previously stated, with the exception of a few 
species, these lovely plants thrive best in the two sections of 
intermediate temperature, the majority of them succeeding in the 
cool section with the Odontoglossums. The lovely O. Marshal- 



ON ORCHIDS. 



607 



lianum, O. Forbesii (Fig. 390), O. varicosum, the different species 
in the way of O. sphacelatum, and many others equally worthy of 
notice, may be grown in shallow pans or baskets suspended from 
the roof, the potting compost consisting of peat and moss, with 
plenty of drainage. They require a liberal amount of water 
throughout the growing season, with the usual rest after the 
flowers have been removed. 




Fig. 388. — Lycaste Skinneri alba. 

Ornithocephalus grandiflorus does best grown similarly 
to Oncidiums in the cool intermediate house. 

• 

Pleiones (Indian Crocuses) are best grown on a shelf in a 
cool intermediate temperature. The potting compost used for 
Coelogynes (to which they are allied) suits them well. The best 
time to repot is immediately after flowering. 



6o8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ScHOMBURGKiA. — Thesc are shy-flowering plants, needing a 
position near the roof - glass in the Cattleya-house. They are 
lovely Orchids, and if they could be induced to flower satis- 
factorily would be more generally grown. 

SoBRALiA. — This genus has Bamboo-like growths, from the apex 
of which, when fully matured, are produced Cattleya-shaped 
flowers in various hues. The cool intermediate house suits them 




Fig. 389.— Miltonta vexillaria. 



well. The potting compost required is a mixture of peat, fibrous 
loam, and sphagnum. As the species are practically perpetual 
growers, they require moisture at the roots, with discretion, 
throughout the year. 

Stanhopea. — This is one of the oldest genera known to 
cultivation in this country. The plants are suitable for basket 
culture, as the flowers usually pierce through the potting compost, 



ON ORCHIDS. 



609 



and are produced through the bars at the base. The potting 
compost should consist of fibrous peat and sphagnum. They 
require warm intermediate treatment, with a hberal supply 
of moisture, during the growing season, . and a cooler treatment 
when at rest. Fig. 391 represents S. fii^ri/ia in flower and 
bud ; this is one of the finest species in cultivation. 

Thunia. — A genus of deciduous Orchids. They commence 
growing in the early spring, which is the best time to repot 
them. Each of the old bulbs should have a stick sufficiently 
strong to secure 
it firmly in posi- 
tion, and they 
may be placed 
as many in each 
pot as desirable. 
The pots should 
be half filled 
with clean crocks. 
When the plants 
have been fixed 
as desired, the 
following com- 
post should be 
brought up to the 
base of the 
new growths and 
pressed mode- 
rately firm : Equal 
portions of fibrous 
loam and peat, to 
which may be 
added a free 
sprinkling of dry 
cow-manure. To 
keep the compost 
in a porous con- 
dition finely- 
broken crocks or 
rough sand should 

be added. The plants should be placed in a light position of 
the warm intermediate house. Little water will be needed at 
first, but as soon as the new roots get hold of the compost 
they will require a liberal supply up to the time when the 
growths reach maturity, and the flowers are developed, after 
which the moisture should be reduced, and the plants placed 
in a cooler and more airy position until the bulbs have properly 
ripened off, when they may be placed on a dry shelf in the 
cool division for the resting period. 

2 R 




Fig. 390. — Oncidium Forbesii. 



6io 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Trichopilia is an interesting genus of plants. The T. suavis 
section, which are the most popular, are best suited when grown 
in pans suspended from the roof of the cool intermediate 
house : they require the usual compost of peat and moss as 
potting material, with a liberal supply of moisture throughout 
the year. 

Zygopetalu]\i. — A lovely genus of Orchids. One of the species 
is usually found in places growing admirably with other plants 
where there is no pretension to cultivate Orchids, and this is 
often a source of envy to the Orchid specialist. Zygopetalums, 




Fig. 391. — Sta^hopea tigri^a. 



with but few exceptions, thrive under cool intermediate treat- 
ment. The potting material should consist of fibrous peat, 
a little loam, and chopped sphagnum. The pots used should 
be drained to two-thirds their depth, as the plants require 
a liberal supply of moisture during the greater part of the 
year. Z. Cedent (Fig. 392) is a very rare and desirable 
hybrid, derived from the intercrossing of Z. Mackaai and 
Z. maxilla7-e. 

There are many other species and varieties that might 
have been included amongst the intermediate Orchids, but 
as space is a consideration I have noted only those which 
I consider most suitable for the amateur and for a general 
collection. Others will be found in the "Appendix."' 



ON ORCHIDS. 



6ii 



Cool Orchids. 



In this division are included many of the most briUiant of the 
Orchid genera. They require a temperature of from 45deg. to 
5odeg. Fahr. Lower temperatures than this may be allowed on 
severe occasions, but with the lowering temperature the atmo- 
spheric moisture must receive careful attention, or the results will 
be disastrous. In mild weather the temperature may usually be 
maintained without resorting to artificial heat, but in dull weather 
it is advisable to use a little fire-heat occasionally, which assists 
in drying the excessive accumulation of moisture likely to gather 
under such conditions. The temperature should be regulated on 
these occasions by the use of the lower 
ventilators. As most of the cool species are 
worthy of attention, I will endeavour to deal 
with the most interesting and beautiful 
amongst them. 

Cryptophoranthus (Window 
Orchid). — Of this genera there are 
two species well worthy 
of consideration, C. 
atropurpureus and C. 
Dayanus. They should 
be grown and treated 
similar to Masdevallias of 
the M. ChimcEra section. 

DiSA. — There are 
about one hundred 
species of Disa^ all 
natives of Africa, but 
very few are in cultiva- 
tion at the present time. 
The most satisfactory 
results wnth D. grandi- 
flora — which is the 
most beautiful of the 
genus — have been 
achieved where plants 
have been grown in a house with the Cape Heaths, i.e.^ 
where there has been a free circulation of air throughout the 
greater portion of the year. The tubers require setting in the 
winter — about January or the beginning of February- — when they 
commence to make their growths, the compost consisting of peat 
and sphagnum, with a liberal sprinkling of limestone rock 
or broken crocks to keep the material in a porous and open 
condition. They should have a liberal supply of moisture 
throughout the growing season ; and the syringe used freely over- 
head in bright and warm weather will have beneficial results. 

2 R 2 




Fig. 392. — Zygopetalum Sedeni. 



6l2 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



A bright light is also necessary to their successful culture. The 
best species to grow are D. grandiflora, D. racemosa, and 
£>. tripetaloides. To these may be added the garden hybrids, 
D. kewensis, D. Langleyensis. D. Premier, and D. Veitchii. These 

latter, being naturalised 
to our climatic condi- 
tions, grow more freely, 
and often succeed where 
the species have been 
a failure. 

Masdevallia may 
be divided into three 
sections : Af. Har- 
rya?m, -with its gaudy 
colours ; 
M. can data 
{S h utile- 
worth it) ; 
and the 
quaint M. 
C h imcEra. 
The latter 
two sections 
should not be allowed 
to fall below a tem- 
perature of 5odeg. in 
winter, or the dreaded 
spot," to which Mas- 
devallias are subject, 
usually makes its ap- 
pearance. The ChivicEra 
(Fig. 393) section are 
best grown in baskets, 
as they produce their 
flower-scapes through 
the potting compost, 
and the use of the 
baskets affords them a 
means of escape through the bars. There are several 
species of this section, all of which are interesting. 
They require a liberal amount of moisture during the 
growing season, but should be kept in a moderately 
dry condition when in a dormant state. The M. caiidaia 
{Shuttlewoj'thii) (Fig. 394) section, inclusive of such kinds as 
M. armenii, M. Estradce, M. Wagneriana, and others of miniature 
growth, do not need a great quantity of potting material about 
them, and are best accommodated when grown in pans suspended 
from the roof. 




393. — Masdevallia 
Chimera. 



ON ORCHIDS. 



613 



The more robust-growing kinds, or those known as the 
M. Harryana section, also include such sorts as M. amahilis^ 
M. chelso7ii, M. Davisii, M. Veitchiana^ and the thick-leaved kinds, 
such as M. peristeria, M. macriira^ 
M. ephippiiim, and others of the 
M. kontoglossa section ; all are 
suitable for pot culture. M. 
tovarejtsis (Fig. 395) is a most 
desirable form, with pure white 
flowers, which are produced in 
the dead of winter, and last a 
long time in perfection. The 
pots should be clean, and drained 
to three-parts of their depth with 
clean broken crocks, and the 
potting compost should consist of 
two parts of peat to one part of 
sphagnum. The best time to 
repot Masdevallias is during the 
latter part of August and the 
beginning of September. This 
being the rooting season, they 
have ample time, under ordinary 
circumstances, to become re- 
established before it is necessary 
to resort to the use of fire-heat. 
The plants require a large amount 
of moisture during the greater 
part of the year, both at the 
roots and in the atmosphere. 
During the winter months it is 
necessary to reduce the root 
moisture, but sufficient should be 
maintained in the atmosphere to 
keep it in such a condition that 
the plants do not suffer when 
fire-heat is being used. There 
cannot be any hard-and-fast lines 
in this matter; for the construc- 
tion of the house, the position in which it is situated, and other 
points have to be taken into consideration ; and these particulars 
are best observed by those familiar with the conditions under which 
the plants have to be cultivated. Without doubt, Masdevallias are 
best accommodated where a house can be devoted to their cul- 
ture, preferably one with a northern aspect, thus avoiding, to a 
great degree, the excessive heat of the summer months. They 
require free ventilation whenever the outside conditions permit, 
and must also be heavily shaded from the direct rays of the sun. 




Fig. 394. — Masdevallia 

CAUDATA. 



6i4 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Odontoglossum. — There are no Orchids more suitable for 
culture by those in possession of a greenhouse than the many 

varied and 
beautiful Odonto- 
glossums. Prac- 
tically all the 
species can be 
procured in an 
imported condi- 
tion for a few 



shillings each. I 
advise buying im- 
ported plants be- 
cause there is 
always more in- 
terest derived by 
growing and 
watching the de- 
velopment of un- 
flowered plants 
than it is possible 
to get out of plants 
of which the variety has 
been proved. What makes 
this plan still more en- 
couraging is the chance 
that always exists of unique 
forms flowering from amongst 
imported plants, and, if one 
is fortunate enough to be 




the possessor of such a 
variety, the investment is 
likely to yield a profitable 
return. A friend of mine 
bought for half-a-crown in 
the sale rooms an imported 
plant together with four others 
in a bag. After growing the 
plant for two years it flowered, 
was again brought to the sale 
rooms, and disposed of by 
auction for 120 guineas ! It 
is quite possible for anyone 
at the present time to buy 
a single plant of Odonto- 
glossum adspiim {Akxa7idrce) 
in an imported condition that would realise even a higher figure 
than that quoted, for no one can foretell what particular variety 



Fig. 395. — Masdevallia tovarensis. 



ON ORCHIDS. 



615 



is likely to turn up from an importation of this plant. This gives 
the humble purchaser proportionately equal chances with the 
expert and with those who buy in quantity. Fig. 396 represents 
O. crispiim F7'aiitz Masereel, one of the most beautiful of the 
spotted forms; Fig. 397 shows O. A7ide7^sonianum (D. B. 
Crawshay's variety), considered to be one of the finest of its 
section ; Fig. 398 represents O. excellajis^ a natural hybrid (also 
artificially raised) between O. Pescatorei and O. triuniplians. 
O. excellaiis (Rosslyn 
var.) is undoubtedly the 
finest that has yet been 
seen. 

Odontoglossums re- 
quire a temperature of 
5odeg. at night, with 
free ventilation when- 
ever the temperature 
rises above 55deg. and 
the outside conditions 
permit. The potting 
compost should consist 
of peat and moss in 
equal proportions, and 
well-drained pots should 
be used. The plants 
require to be kept in a 
fairly moist condition 
throughout the year, as 
they are almost per- 
petually in a state of 
activity, and flower at 
different seasons. Where 
a house can be devoted 
to the culture of the 
different species of 
Odontoglossum it would 
be difficult to enter it 
at any season of the 
year without finding 
something in flower. 
The exquisite beauty of 
of the flowers cannot be 
genus Odontoglossum is 
sideration of all lovers 




Fig. 396. — Odontoglossum crispum 
Frantz Masereel. 



the different species 
too highly praised ; 
w^orthy of the first 
of Orchids. 



and the durability 
fact, the whole 



m 



Among 



place in the con- 
the most suitable 
kinds for the consideration of the intended cultivator are 
O. crispwn^ O. cirj-hosum^ O. Andersonianimi^ O. EdzvcD'dii, 
O. gioriosum, O. grande, O. Hallii, O. Harryajimn, O. Pescatorei 
(Fig. 399 shows O. P. Veitchii, a unique plant in Baron 



ON ORCHIDS. 



617 



Schroeder's collection), O. Rossii, and O. triumphans. There are 
other interesting kinds, but the above are the most robust- 
growing and suitable for beginners. 

Oncidium. — Several of these succeed better grown with the 
Odontoglossums than under warmer conditions, and should be 
treated in the same manner in every respect. They include such 
lovely sorts as O. concolor, O. aiaiUatiim, O. iiuurvum, the lovely 
forms of the O. viacranthiim section, with their traihng spikes of 
exquisitely beautiful flowers, O. omithorhynchtim, O. tigrinum, 
and several others with lesser attractions. As the above flower 




Fig. 398. — Odontoglossum excellans. 

at different seasons of the year, they help to keep a succession of 
blossom in this department. 

SoPHRONiTis is one of the most beautiful genera of winter- 
flowering Orchids. S. grandifiora (Fig. 400) possesses the highest 
qualities of all the species in cultivation, its deep scarlet flowers 
always compelling admiration. The plants are of dwarf habit, 
and suitable for pan or basket culture, suspended from the roof. 
The potting compost used should be the same as that 
recommended for Cattleyas. 6". grandiflo7^a does well in a light 
position of the cool house with the Odontoglossums. The other 
species of this genus are scarcely worthy of consideration where 
space is limited. They require similar treatment to S. grandifiora. 

Hardy Orchids. 

Several species of Orchids torm interesting subjects for the 
rock garden. The species and varieties most suitable for this 



6i8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



purpose are Cyp?'ipedium acaule, C. Calceolus, and C. spedabiky 
man)^ species of Ophrys, and a number of interesting Orchis^ of 
which O. foliosa and O. latifolia are two of the easiest grown 
and the most beautiful. 

Culture.— Hard}' Orchids require a position somewhat 
sheltered from the bright rays of the sun in summer, and from 
excessive cold and wet in winter. The material best suited for 
their requirements is a mixture of fibrous loam, peat, and leaf- 
mould, with a liberal sprinkling of coarse sand. If planted m 
the rockery particular attention should be given to the matter 
of drainage to prevent, as far as possible, excessive accumulations 
of water about the roots. The least stagnation is liable to have 

disastrous effects on any 
kind of hardy Orchids. 

Hybridisation. 

This interesting branch 
in the culture of Orchids 
is practically only in its 
infancy, although thirty- 
seven years have elapsed 
since the first artificiall}'- 
raised hybrid flowered 
in this country. It was 
obtained by the late 
]\Ir. J. Dominy in the 
Exeter nurseries of 
]\Iessrs. J. Veitch and 
Sons, by the inter- 
crossing of Calanthe 
Masuca and C. fu?'cata, 
and was named C. 
Fig. 399. — Odontoglossum Pescatorei Doniinii. Mr. Dominy 
^ EiTCHii. continued raising seed- 

lings at Exeter with 
success. When the firm removed to the Royal Exotic Nurseries, 
in King's Road, Chelsea, a few years later, encouraged by 
the success he had achieved, and with fresh material constantly 
coming to hand, IMr. Dominy was enabled to considerably extend 
his operations, with the result that many of the most beautiful 
hybrids raised by that pioneer of Orchid h3-bridisation are still 
among the choicest and most valuable in up-to-date collections. 
Mr. Dominy was succeeded in the middle of the sixties by Mr, 
J. Seden, who has continued crossing and intercrossing both 
hybrids and species uninterruptedly up to the present, with the 
result that scarcely a meeting of the Royal Horticultural Society is 
held without the introduction of some new and startling novelty 
in hybridisation by the firm. Lcelio-Cattleya Domijiiaiia (Fig. 401) 





ON ORCHIDS. 



619 



is one of the finest of these bigeneric hybrids. It is derived 
from the intercrossing of Lcelia pui-piirata and Caff ley a Dowiana. 

It was my privilege a short time since to inspect the private 
hybridising department of Messrs. Veitch's nursery, now situated 
at Langley, Slough, and I was astonished to see the countless 
number of hybrids in all stages of growth, from the tiny 
germinations in the seed-pans to those bursting into flower. As 
pioneers of hybridisation, Messrs. Veitch have naturally had 
considerable advantages by being able to bring into use the 
hybrids that have been continually flowering with them. These 
give " new blood," which it is impossible to obtain under less 
favourable circumstances. 

The fascination of Orchid hybridisation has so extended of 
late years that there is now scarcely any Orchid collection 
where seedlings of some of the difl'erent kinds are not raised 
on the premises. Considerable variation occurs as to the period 
that elapses from fertilisation to the time of ripening of the seed- 
pods in the different kinds. The greater part of them take 
from nine to twelve months. There are also different methods 
of sowing the seed, each advocate claiming the greater advantages. 




Fig. 400. — SoPHRONiTis grandiflora. 

My own experience is that this is only a secondary consideration, 
providing the seed is good, properly ripened, and carefully 
attended to afterwards. There is little more difficulty in the 
raising of Orchids than is experienced with any other class of plant 



620 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

bearing seeds of the same dimensions. Far more seeds are 
destroyed by thoughtless watering than by any other cause. 
They are so minute and dusthke that the least carelessness in 
watering washes them over the sides of the pots or seed-pans. 




Fig. 401. — L^lio-Cattleya Dominiana, 

After the seedlings have been removed from their seed- 
pans, constant care is required to keep them clean and give 
every inducement by light and atmospheric conditions likely to 
be suitable to their various requirements. If this is done very 
little more difficulty will be found in the successful culture 
of Orchid seedlings than is experienced in the raising of other 
plants. In proof of this assertion I have only to point out the 
numbers of persons who, without any instructions, have sur- 
mounted, as the late Mr. Dominy did, all difficulties, and are 
at the present day among our most successful hybridists. 

Foes.— Considering the number of Orchids which are annually 
imported into this country, and the ready means they afford of 
materially increasing the insect population, it is matter for 
congratulation that one so seldom hears of the introduction of 
any species which are very harmful to the plants under notice. 
The wonder, too, is greater if one comes to think how very 
favourable the temperature of Orchid-houses is for the develop- 
ment of certain insects needing warmth. Orchids, of course, have 
their pests like every other plant, but that they have hitherto 
enjoyed, at any rate when artificially grown, an immunity from 



ON ORCHIDS. 




(By permission of the Board of 
Agriculture.) 



attack by any pests, animal or vegetable, which is seldom vouch- 
safed to most popular plants, is certain. Of late years, however, 
several formidable pests have threatened the Orchid-grower, and 
in some collections much damage has actually been inflicted. 

The most destructive of insect pests 
amongst the newcomers is a tropical 
beetle, scientifically known as Xyle- 
borus perforans. The genus is un- 
represented in this country, but in 
the sugar - cane districts this same 
"^'^ \ beetle occasions the planter not a 

'r^ \ " ^^-^^^ rnt»SS little anxiety. The generic and 

specific names give sufficient clue to 
its propensities, which are to tunnel. 
Dendrobiiim PhalcEfiopsis are the 
plants usually selected, and these are 
Fig. 402. — Dendrobium Beetle, attacked by means of the pseudo- 
AND Portion of Plant bulbs. Having gained access, the 
SHOWING Perforations. ^^^^^^^ practically tunnel the stems, 

(Much magnined.) , 

causmg the plants to have a most 
unhealthy appearance and not in- 
frequently to die. The beetle (Fig. 

402) is about 2^mm. long, and chestnut-brown. The larva (Fig. 

403) is w^hite and footless, and is also capable of much mischief. 
Dendrobiums, therefore, which show signs of decay without a cause 
being readily assigned for it, should be carefully examined, and if 
the small perforations are noticed in the growths (Fig. 402), the 
portions must be cut away ; for it is better to risk the check that such 
is sure to cause than the utter destruction of the plant attacked. 

In Cattleyas there is a species of fly {Isosoi?ia orchideai^um) 
which occasions a lot of damage. This insect deposits its 
eggs in the eye of the young growth when 
the plant is in a dormant state. As a con- 
sequence, the growth does not advance much 
above lin., swells in the centre, and generally 
exhibits a stunted appearance. If this growth 
is cut off at the base and spht open, there 
will be disclosed from three to seven yellowish 
maggot-like creatures. After eating a large 
hole in the young growth, they become pupae, 
and eventually emerge as perfect flies. They 
should be destroyed as soon as seen. Fumiga- 
tion with a vaporising insecticide will effectually 
settle them before they have time to deposit 
their eggs. The roots, too, not infrequently. Fig. 403.— Grub of 
are pierced bv the insects, and a warty growth Dendrobium 
results. The grubs should be picked out Beetle. 
with a stout needle. 




622 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Other insect pests which do considerable damage to Orchids 
are the Cockroaches. These are most difficult to eradicate when 
thoroughly established, as the colonies are usually in very inac- 
cessible places, and the eggs so well protected as to be out of 
the reach of insecticides. These not only destroy the vital parts 
of Orchids, but also entirely disfigure the flowers. For Cattleya 
blossoms in particular Cockroaches betray a marked partiality, 
and in a single night will destroy what has taken the grower 
months to achieve. Cockroaches are so readily introduced, either 
in importations of new plants, or even in the clothing, that 
the gardener can hardly be too careful, and should their 
presence be detected he should at once take active measures to 
deal with the pest. Our plant-houses afford the insects the 
warmth that is absolutely necessary to their welfare ; and no 
w^onder, therefore, is it that once introduced they take a lot of 
ousting. Phosphorus paste spread upon bread-and-butter is as 
good a trap as anything, and wnll kill large numbers. Cock- 
roaches are nocturnal in their habits, and in the daytime are 
seldom visible. 

At one time growlers of plants had but one species to contend 
wnth — Pej'iplaneta orientalis — an insect which holds its midnight 
revels in our kitchens, causing them to have a most disgusting 
smell. To-day the number of species found has been consider- 
ably augmented, due mainly to the way in which the importation 
of plants has increased. One of the commonest of these 
Cockroach newcomers is P. australasice^ a handsome insect. 
This has established itself in this country, and promises to 
become still commoner in the future. Unlike P. orientalis^ it 
is winged in both sexes. In colour it is red-browii, with a 
yellow streak along the costal margin of the fore-wing at the 
basal half. The pronotum is black, and has a distinct yellow 
margin all round. P. australasice is altogether larger than the 
so-called "Black-beetle," and a generally showner insect. Though 
the specific name suggests Australia as the native country of this 
pest, yet such does not seem to be the case. Large numbers of 
the insect have been taken in public gardens giving place to 
Orchids, &:c., and from many private collections it has also been 
recorded. All Cockroaches are inimical to plant-life, and should 
be seriously regarded by the gardener who values his precious 
charges. 

Belonging to the Heinipte?'a Heteroptera are the plant-bugs, a 
group of insects whose ways are not so wxll understood by the 
gardener as they should be. Of late one of these creatures 
has been adding to the troubles of the Orchid-grower by inflicting 
damage upon Dendrobium foliage. The insect responsible for 
this mischief is known as Phytocoris militarise a near relative of 
the objectionable-smelling creature found upon Raspberries and 
the like. It is another of those insects wnth which an interchange 



ON ORCHIDS. 



623 



of commerce has presented us. The bug is nocturnal 
in its habits. The perfect insect is described in the "Journal 
of the Board of Agriculture " as bright blood-red with black or 
blackish-brown markings. Its head is blood-red, and the black 
eyes are very large and prominent ; on the thorax are two 
broad black stripes extending down the wing-cases. The legs 
are red and the feet dark brown. The rostrum, or beak, by 
means of which it extracts the juices from the leaves, causing 
them to have a blotchy appearance, extends to half the length 
of the body, though it is not so long as in the nymphal stage 
of the insect, when the creature has but rudimentary wings, and 
is yellowish instead of bright red. Spraying with a solution of 
quassia and soft-soap has been found to give good results. 

Of other insect pests affecting Orchids, mention must be made 
of Thrips and Greenfly. These may be killed by treating them 
to one of the vaporising insecticides (XL All is very safe and 
efficient), taking care that such is performed when the plants are 
not in flower. ]\Iealy-bug is another pest which asserts itself, 
while Scale insects find Orchids suitable hosts. The former 
should be brushed off, and the latter sponged, in either case 
using a soft-soap solution. * 

There are several other pests, outside the class I?isecfa, which 
give trouble, but none more destructive than Slugs, Snails, and 
VVoodlice. Both the first-named are particularly troublesome to 
the cool division of Orchids, and they manifest an especial 
fondness for Odontoglossum and Masdevallia spikes. There is 
a small variety often found with the sphagnum which is very 
destructive ; it emits a garlic-like odour when crushed. The 
Common Garden Snail [Helix horteiisis), which is very abundant, 
is also to be avoided. It exhibits considerable variation as 
regards the colour of its shell. This pest does not exhibit 
a fondness for any special section of the Orchid family. Slugs 
and Snails are best trapped by means of bran, brewers' grains, 
or Cabbage- or Lettuce-leaves. These traps must, however, be 
examined nightly, as in the daytime the pests are hidden away. 
Woodlice find their way into Orchid-houses, and, being night- 
feeders, they must necessarily be trapped. This is best accom- 
plished by placing sliced Potato or Apple in the vicinity of their 
haunts, and lifting the traps each morning, when the Woodlice 
should be destroyed. 

Comparatively few fungoid pests seriously affect Orchids, and 
those w^hich are found if recognised may be readily dealt with. 
The commonest kind is a Leaf-Rust, which causes the foliage 
in summer to have unsightly whitish-yellow^ patches. As soon 
as the presence of this fungus (which is a species of Glaospoi'iiini) 
is detected, resort should be had to spraying with liver of 
sulphur (sulphide of potassium) — loz. dissolved in 2gals. of hot 
water. 






J 



14 



On 



Pitcher 



^ and Insectivorous Plants. 



Most charming and interesting are these plants, and as they 
are also easy of culture they should be far more generally grown 
than is now the case. Nepenthes is perhaps the most difficult 
genus to deal with, owing to the fact that the plants need more 
heat during the winter months than is generally at command. 
But there are the North American Pitcher-plants (Sarracenias, 
in various species and hybrids), Darlingtoiiia califor?nca, and the 
New Holland Pitcher-plant {Cephalotus foliicularis), all of which 
may be grown in a house where a winter temperature of from 
45deg. to 5odeg. can be maintained. These delightful subjects 
are always interesting and appreciated, their various-coloured 
pitchers and quaint characteristics recommending them to all in 
the possession of a greenhouse ; indeed, even those least 
interested in horticulture are usually attracted by this wonderful 
section of plants. 

Nepenthes. — Of these Pitcher-plants there are about forty 
species and hybrids now in cultivation ; the species are mostly 
natives of the South Sea Islands. They require a summer tempera- 
ture of not less than yodeg. to 75deg., and with sun-heat at 
closing time the temperature may often reach as high as loodeg. 
or more. They like a strong light, but must be protected from 



By Henry James Chapman. 



ON PITCHER AND INSECTIVOROUS PLANTS. 



625 



the scorching rays of the sun during the hottest part of the day. 
With this condition of high temperature naturally the plants 
require an abundance of moisture at the roots and in the atmo- 
sphere at all times. They make their growths and pitchers 
during the summer months, and are generally seen in perfection 
about September. After this time, with shorter days, accom- 
panied by cooler nights, the temperature may be reduced to 
about 65deg. at night, and the atmospheric moisture diminished 
correspondingly ; but the plants must not, under any considera- 
tion, be allowed to suffer from want of moisture at the roots 
at any season. The plants are best accommodated when grown 
in baskets, which show their graceful habit to perfection, and 
they can also thus be more easily transferred or suspended, as 
desired, in any position, for exhibition purposes, &c. 

The most distinct and desirable kinds are Nepenthes hicalcarata. 
The plant is of robust habit, with very broad foliage. The pitchers 
are large, of elegant form, about 5in. long, and upwards of 
3in. wide at the broadest part ; the colour, when mature, is light 
reddish-crimson, marked with parallel ridges. They are of 
remarkably stout texture, have two prominent fimbriated wings 
in front, and on the inner side of the triangular process at the 
articulation with the lid, two strong, spiny spurs, which suggested 
the specific name. A rare species from Borneo. 

N. Burkei is a native of the Philippine Islands. It has distinct 
cylindrical pitchers. Sin. long, narrowed in the middle ; the colour 
is green, spotted with red. They have a distinct, ridged, deep 
red rim at the top. This species is remarkable as being the most 
variable one in cultivation. The variety N. B. excellens has 
much larger and somewhat more cylindrical pitchers, which are 
more richly coloured. The spots on them are larger and more 
numerous ; the lid also is prettily spotted, which, in the type, 
is almost destitute of spots. Both possess a good constitution, 
and pitcher freely. 

N. cincta is a native of Borneo ; the pitchers are fine in tex- 
ture, yin. or Sin. long, and the colour is green, flushed with red, 
and with numerous irregular purple blotches. The plants are of 
good constitution and pitcher freely. There is a question of the 
possibility of its being a natural hybrid between N. Noi'thiana 
and N. albo-marginata. It certainly has many of the character- 
istics of these species. N. Curtisii is another distinct and desir- 
able species from Borneo, having pitchers of a dull green, thickly 
mottled with purple, while the lid is prettily marbled, with purple 
on a pale ground. The variety N. C. siiperba is, however, a 
very striking improvement on the type. Not only are the 
pitchers of the variety much larger, but their coloration is also 
much superior. The ground-colour is of a rich sanguineous 
red, wath longitudinal yellow-green streaks and markings. The 
rim, which has here a much greater development, with the 

2 8 



626 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



numerous ribs and tooth-like lobings, is wholly of sanguineous 
red, while the broad, undulated lid is much freckled with red 
on a yellow-green ground. 

JV. Hookeriana is one of the best known kinds, and possesses 
a. good constitution and pitchers freely. The colour is green, 
:spotted with red. It is a native of Sarawak. N. Kennedyana, 
from Northern Australia, is a pretty species, with pitchers 5in. 
long, elongated-cylindrical in form, and of a reddish colour. 
JV. Khasiana i^N. distillatorid) has pitchers 6in. to 7 in. long, green, 
with purplish markings. It is a native of China. N. lanaia is a 
distinct and pretty species, but very rare. The pitchers are 
about 6in. long, and greenish-yellow. It is a native of Borneo. 
N. madagascajnensis (Fig. 403) is a free-growing, most desirable 
kind, with small distinct reddish-crimson pitchers. N. Northiaiia 
(Fig. 404) is one of the finest Nepenthes in cultivation. The 
flask-shaped pitchers are reddish-green, striped and spotted with 



with the freedom with which it produces its elegantly-shaped 
pitchers, readily accounts for its popularity. The pitchers are 
5in. to 6in. iong, green, spotted with red. 

N. Rajah (from Borneo) is probably the grandest of all the 
species of Nepenthes. The broad, ampullaceous pitcher is 6 in. 
in diameter and i2in. long. It has two fimbriated wings in 
front, is covered with long rusty hairs above, and studded with 
glands within ; the margin is scalloped into bold undulations. 
The lid is loin. long and Sin. broad. Unfortunately, it is of 
delicate constitution. 




crimson, while the 
lid is green, spotted 
with red ; when 
mature they are 
1 2in. to i6in. long, 
and 3in. to 5in. 
broad. It is a 
native of Borneo. 



Fig. 403. — Nepenthes madagascariensis. 



N. Phy Uam- 
ph r a (from 
Borneo) is a dis- 
tinct species of free 
habit, producing 
pitchers loin. long, 
and of the same 
colour as the 
leaves. N. Raffles- 
iana is the species 
oftenest seen under 
cultivation; its 
robust constitu- 
tion, combined 



ON PITCHER AND INSECTIVOROUS PLANTS. 



627 



N. saiiguiiiea has blood-red pitchers 5in. to loin. long. It is 
a very rare species. N. Veitchii is a most distinct species, with 
cylindrical pitchers gin. to i2in. long, and 3in. to 4in. in 
diameter ; they are of a light green colour, shaded with brown, 
and covered with minute woollv hairs. It is a native of Borneo. 

There are numerous garden hybrids which have been derived 



intercrossmg 



from the 
interesting and in many 
instances striking addi- 
tions. The following list 
includes only the best 
kinds : N'.chelsoni, derived 
from the intercrossing of 
JV. Dominiana and N. 
Hookeriana^ has the inter- 
mediate characters of the 
parents, and is free-grow- 
ing and most desirable. 
The pitchers are of good 
shape and substance, deep 
green, heavily blotched 
and spotted with reddish- 
brown. N. Courtii is 
a remarkably handsome 
hybrid, with pitchers 5in. 
long and 2^in. in dia- 
meter, cylindrical, pale 
greyish-green in colour, 
heavily spotted with red- 
dish-brown. N. Dickson- 
iana is of recent intro- 
duction, and is derived 
from the intercrossing 
of N. Rafflesiaiia and 
N. Veitchii^ and combines 
the intermediate charac- 
teristics of the parents. 
The pitchers are loin. to 
compressed, and of a 
speckled with 
ornament. The 



of the various species. These form 




Fig. 404. — Xepenthes Xorthiana. 



long. 



sub-cylindrical and slightly 
colour, densely spotted and 
red-crimson. The rim is a most striking 
furrows are yellow, the ridges crimson, inter- 



bright 



light 



12m. 
green 



rupted at intervals by deep red bands. N. Mastersiana is 
indisputably the finest hybrid yet obtained. It is derived from 
the intercrossing of iV! sanguinea and N. Khasiana. The pitchers 



are Sin. to 



loin. 



long, and 2in. to 3in. broad. The colour is 



a 



deep blood-red, with some spottings of a darker colour ; they are 
cylindrical, slightly distended below, and contracted above the 
middle. This is quite distinct from every other Nepenthes in 

2 s 2 



628 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

cultivation. It has a vigorous constitution, is compact in habit, 
and pitchers freely. 

N. mixta is a most interesting and desirable hybrid, derived 
from the intercrossing of N. Ciirtisii and N. Northiana. The 
intermediate characteristics are well defined in the offspring. 
The pitchers are about Sin. in length, yellowish-green in colour, 
blotched with red, as in N. Northiana. The fine ribs which 
surround the mouth of the pitcher are of a deep crimson. The 
lid is oblong and thickly spotted with purple. The plant is of 
good habit, and pitchers freely. N. Morgance is distinct and 
pretty, and of dwarf, neat habit. The pitchers are flask-shaped, 
with two narrow wings. In a young state and on weakly plants 
they are beautifully mottled with bright red and pale green ; but 
in older plants they are almost self-coloured and blood-red. The 
lid is always pale green, forming a striking contrast to the deep 
coloration to the other portions of the pitchers. Sedenii has 

medium-sized light green pitchers, profusely blotched and freckled 
with brownish-crimson The variety N. S. rubra has deeper- 
coloured pitchers. 

N. Tiveyi is one of the most distinct Nepejithes in cultivation. 
It is of recent introduction, having been derived from the inter- 
crossing of N. Veitchii and N. Curtisii superba. The pitchers 
are as large as those of N. Veitchii^ but more cylindrical ; the 
ground-colour is light green, which is much blotched and spotted 
with crimson. The wings are heavily fringed, and the broad rim 
is of a deep reddish-brown. The lid is a marked ornament, being 
erect, light yellowish-green, spotted and mottled with dark crimson. 
The plant is of good habit, and pitchers freely. N. Wiliiamsii, 
derived from the intercrossing of JV. Sedenii and JV. Hookeriana, 
bears pitchers intermediate in shape between those of the two 
parents, 4in. to 5in. long, and of a green colour, densely spotted 
with blood-red, sometimes becoming suffused with red ; it is of 
good habit, and pitchers freely. JV. Wrigleyana has medium- 
sized flask-shaped pitchers, pale green, thickly covered with crimson 
spottings. When well grown, this is distinct and pretty. 

The potting compost should consist of two parts fibrous roots 
extracted from the best brow^n peat, and one part of living 
sphagnum chopped moderately fine, to which should be added a 
liberal sprinkling of finely-broken crocks or rough sand and a 
few pieces of charcoal, to keep the whole in as open and porous a 
condition as possible. Drainage also should be carefully attended 
to, so as to avoid stagnation, which causes the soil to decay 
and become sour about the roots. The plants should be 
thoroughly watered as soon as they have been re-basketed, and 
every encouragement given to induce free growth. 

The stock is increased by cuttings ; these should be made of 
half-ripened wood, cut at the joint in the usual way, and inserted 
in cocoanut fibre in a case where a brisk bottom-heat can be 



ON PITCHER AND INSECTIVOROUS PLANTS. 



629 



maintained; or they may be inserted in pots of living sphagnum, 
where they often root more successfully than in heated cases or 
under bell-glasses. Young plants may also be raised from seed 
when it can be procured. This may be sown in pans pre- 
pared with finely-chopped portions of peat and sphagnum, placing 
them in a heated case, and keeping in a moist condition. The 
seeds usually germinate in about a month after sowing. The 
seedlings may be pricked off as soon as sufficiently large to 
handle, and grown on in 
the usual way. 

Sarracenia. — This in- 
teresting and pretty section 
of Pitcher-Plants is worthy 
of the consideration of 
all amateur gardeners and 
those in possession of a 
greenhouse where a winter 
temperature of from 45deg. 
to 5odeg. can be main- 
tained. Unlike the Eastern 
section of Pitcher- Plants, 
these gems produce in early 
spring most attractive and 
highly - perfumed flowers 
which are always appre- 
ciated and useful for 
cutting purposes, as they 
last a considerable time 
in perfection. As soon as 
the flowering season is 
over, the plants commence 
to make their new growths 
and quickly develop their 
attractive pitchers. 

Considerable variety is 
observable amongst the 
species, as the accompany- 
ing illustrations indicate. 
The handiwork of the 
hybridist also has still 

further added to the varied characteristics of the plants. 
- further list of varieties may be seen in the " Appendix." 

The potting compost required for Sarracenias is good fibrous 
peat and living sphagnum in about equal proportions ; the peat 
should be of such a character that it does not readily turn sour. 
A liberal sprinkUng of rough sand or clean, finely broken crocks 
should also be added to keep the compost in an open condition. 
The pots must be carefully drained in such a manner as to avoid 




Fig. 405. — Sarracenia Drummondi. 



A 



630 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



be 



dividing 



stagnation. The best time to pot the plants is in the early 
spring, when they are in a dormant condition. Afterwards they 
should be thoroughly watered and kept in a fairly moist condition 
until active growth sets in, when they require an abundance of 
water at the roots, and a somewhat moist atmosphere is beneficial 
though not absolutely necessary. As autumn approaches, with 
cooler and duller conditions outside, the moisture should be 
diminished accordingly, and the compost should be kept in a 
friable condition throughout the resting period. A fairly light 
position is beneficial at all seasons, as this enables the pitchers 
to properly develop, brings out prominently the various natural 

tints, and thoroughly 
ripens the growths. 

Sarracenias may 
increased by 
the numerous crowns 
which are produced near 
the surface. These 
should be taken off in 
the early spring at the 
time of repotting, using 
the same compost as 
recommended above. 

Among the best 
species are 6". Drum- 
viondi^ which is shown 
with the flower in 
Fig. 405 ; the pitchers 
are green and purple, 
mottled with white. 
S. D. alba has more 
white than the typical 
form, and the pitchers 
are generally not so 
robust. S. flava has 
large open green 
pitchers, with deep 
purple veinings. The 
variety atrosaiigiiinea 
has greenish-white and 
purple tessellation, as 
seen in Fig. 406. 
S. purpurea is a hardy subject, and is a most distinct and 
desirable species. S. psittaciiia is very scarce ; but it is distinct 
and good, and one of the most useful for hybridisation. 

Among the hybrids 6". formosa (shown on the right of Fig. 407) 
is derived from the intercrossing of S. variolaris and S. psittacina^ 
and the marked characteristics of the latter species are seen in 




Fig. 



406. — Sarracenia flava 
atrosanguinea. 



ON PITCHER AND INSECTIVOROUS PLANTS. 



631 



the offspring. Other hybrids from the same species which are 
among the most desirable in cultivation are 6". Coiirtii and 
S. Wrighyana. S. chelsoiii has large dark purple pitchers. 
S. exoniensis and S. Stevensii are two of the largest and best of 
their section. 6'. melanorhoda (shown on the left of Fig. 407) 
has deep green pitchers with dark purple veinings. 6*. Willisii 
has similar characteristics, but different-shaped pitchers. There 
are many other hybrids worthy of note, but the above-mentioned 
are the most desirable. 





Darlingtonia cali- 
FORNiCA (Fig. 408) is 
closely allied to the 
Sarracenias, and re- 
quires similar treatment 
as regards potting com- 
post. It is hardier than 
many of the Sarracenias, 
and may easily be culti- 
vated in the rockery 
with the protection of 
a lio;ht in winter, or in 
cold frames. Some of 
the finest specimens I 
have ever seen were 
grown under the latter 
conditions, and were 
in every way far 
superior to anything 
I have seen under 
greenhouse cultivation. 
I would therefore advise 
frame culture, especially 
in the summer. The 
plant requires a liberal 
supply of moisture and 
a fairly humid atmo- 
sphere during the grow- 
ing season. It should 

be freely syringed overhead in bright weather or when the outside 
conditions permit, especially when planted in the rockery. 

Heliamphora nutans is a rare and quaint species from 
South America, closely allied to, and requiring similar treat- 
ment to that recommended for the Sarracenias, with the 
exception that it needs more heat and is best suited when 
grown in the cool stove or warm greenhouse. It requires 
a liberal supply of moisture and a humid atmosphere at all 
times. 




Fig. 407. — (i) Sarracenia melanorhoda, 

(2) S. FORMOSA. 



632 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Cephalotus follicui.aris is a most desirable, easily cultivated, 
and always interesting little subject, and it cannot be too highly 
recommended to the notice of amateurs ; in fact, all in 
possession of a greenhouse where a temperature of 45deg. to 
5odeg. can be maintained in winter may grow it successfully. 
In summer and during the growing season it requires a temperature 
of about 55deg., as then it usually makes its leaves and pitchers. 
During the warm months there is very little difficulty in maintaining 
a desirable growing temperature. These plants require a fairly 
light position to enable them to properly develop the colour of 
the pitchers, but care must be observed to protect them from 
the direct rays of the sun during the hottest parts of the day, or 
they are liable to become scalded. A humid atmosphere is its 
chief requirement. The best way to ensure this condition is to 

employ an ordinary bell-glass to cover 
the plants. Moisture is thus drawn up 
from the potting compost and condenses 
on the glass and around the plants. 
Under such conditions the plants are 
easily grown and always form objects 
of interest and admiration even to those 
least interested in horticulture. 

The potting compost should consist 
of one part chopped sphagnum and 
two parts peat and rough sand or 
finely-broken crocks. The crocks are 
necessary, as the plants require a liberal 
amount of water, and it is desirable to 
keep the compost in as open a con- 
dition as possible, so that there may be 
no stagnation about the roots. The 
Fig. 408.— Darlingtonia pots (small "sixties" are usually large 
cALiFORNicA. cuough) should bc clean and liberally 

drained. The crown of the plants 
should be kept slightly above the rim of the pot, and the 
compost mounded up to it and made moderately firm about 
the roots. 

Early spring and just before active growth commences is the 
best time to repot the plants ; after this operation I find it an 
advantage to plunge the pot to the rim in another pot sufficiently 
large to take the bell-glass comfortably inside its rim, filling up 
the lower space with crocks and making up the surface with 
chopped living sphagnum, which quickly commences to grow, pro- 
ducing a nice effect, and assisting also in providing the humid 
conditions necessary for successful culture. After the plant 
has been plunged, it is desirable to give it a thorough soaking 
with soft' rain-water, and then to cover it with the bell- 
glass. It will not require more moisture for several days, but 




ON PITCHER AND INSECTIVOROUS PLANTS. 



as soon as there are signs of its becoming dry, water should 
again be supphed. Rain-water is always desirable, as it encourages 
the moss to grow, while hard water has the opposite effect. 




Fig. 409. — Cephalotus follicularis. 

The stock may be increased by divisions of the many little 
crowns that form on the surface of the potting compost. This 
should be done just as growth is about to commence in the 



634 1HE BOOK OF GARDEXIXG. 

early spring, potting up as desired, and using pots according to 
the size of the plants. The compost used and treatment 
required will be the same as advised above. 

In winter, with lower temperatures and dull, sunless weather, 
drier conditions will be necessar}". The plants should then be 
allowed to attain a reasonable dry state. Cephalotus some- 
times shed the whole of their foliage in winter, but with the 
return of spring I have several times noticed that plants which 
lose their leaves, usuall}^ pitcher far more freely, and make better 




Fig. 410. — Drosera rotuxiufglia. 



specimens than those which have kept their foliage intact. 
Fig. 409 shows the foliage, pitchers, and a raceme of flowers. 

Droseras are a most interesting and beautiful genus of Insecti- 
vorous Plants. They are commonly known as " Sundews,"' in 
consequence of being beset with glandular hairs which appear as 
if covered with dew. There are about a hundred species of 
this genus of annual or perennial glandular herbs, sometimes 
bulbous. Droseras are scattered over most parts of the world, 
and are usually found in marshy, bogg}* places. Some of the 
Australian kinds, however, grow in dry spots, where their bulbous 



ON PITCHER AND INSECTIVOROUS PLANTS. 



roots remain dormant for the greater part of the year, coming 
into activity again with the first rains. The ornamental leaves 
are clothed with numerous hairs, which when exposed to strong 
light turn to a bright red. At the apex of each of these hairs 
there is a globular drop of fluid, to which small flies that may 
chance to get into contact with it become affixed in the same 
manner as bird-lime acts. Insects thus caught rarely escape 
with their lives, and may be generally found dead on the native 
D. rotundifolia (Fig. 410), which is commonly met with wherever 
sphagnum is found growing, and in boggy places. In the latter 
positions, where the water becomes low in summer, the bright 
red colour, to which they then turn, is most attractive when the 
sun is shining full upon • them. In the Fenlands of Norfolk 
especially they are most prominent. 

The culture of the Droseras is in most cases easily provided 
for. The cool temperature of a greenhouse or cold frame meets 
their requirements through the warm months of the year. The 
Cape and Australian species require a cool intermediate tem- 
perature of about 5odeg. during the winter season. For potting 
the compost required is equal proportions of peat and living 
sphagnum, to which may be added a liberal sprinkling of rough 
silver-sand and some chopped partly- decayed leaves, the whole 
being pressed moderately firm. The pots most suitable should 
be judged by the size and strength of the plants. Drainage 
should be clean and ample. The best time to pot the plants is 
about the first week in March. 

The stock of Droseras may be increased by divisions of the 
crowns, or from seed, which should be sown as soon as procured. 
The latter may be sprinkled on baskets or pots on a sweet surface 
of growing sphagnum, in a good light position. An Orchid 
pot or basket is admirable for the purpose. But by far the 
best way, especially with the warm-growing D. binata^ is to 
chop the roots of strong plants into pieces about ^in. long. 
These should be laid evenly on the surface of a pot containing 
sandy peat-soil and leaf-mould, and the roots lightly covered 
with the same material, after adding a little chopped living 
sphagnum. They should be watered thoroughly with soft rain- 
water, covered with a bell-glass, and placed in a warm, moist 
position of the warm house or propagating-stove. In the course 
of a few days they will commence to emit new growths from 
the sides of the roots, which quickly gain the surface, and may 
be pricked out in pots, as desired, as soon as they are large 
enough to handle, being gradually hardened off, so as to be placed 
in the cooler temperature under which it is generally found 
desirable to grow them. Droseras need an abundance of rain- 
water during the growing season ; if hard water is used the 
sphagnum quickly dies and causes the material to turn sour 
and decay, necessitating repotting of the plants without delay. 



636 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



The most easily procured species are D. binata^ which some 
what resembles D. dichotonia, but is of dwarfer habit and more 
highly coloured than the last-named. D. cape?isis is a most 
distinct and desirable sort, of compact and pretty growth ; it 
gets distinctly red under the influence of the sun's rays. 

one of the tallest and most attractive species in 
is of good constitution ; it is very pale green, 
distinct and pretty species, does well in the cool 



D. dichotoma is 
cultivation, and 
D. filifor7?iis^ a 



frame in winter. D. i-otu?idifolia^ a British species, is most 
interesting treated as a greenhouse plant. D. spathulata is very 
distinct, and one of the most desirable species ; it has a close 




and 
habit, 
grown 
light 
almost 
is then 



com pact 
When 
in strong 
it turns 
red, and 
most in- 



teresting. 

DlON^A MUSCI- 

PULA. — Of the 
whole section of 
Insect ivorous 
Plants the Dionaea 
is the most in- 
teresting (Fig. 
411). It is 
familiarly known 
as Venus's Fly- 
trap, which popu- 
lar name is derived 
from the sensitive- 
ness set up by an 
insect or some 
other small object 
coming in contact 
with one or more 
of the three 
bristles which are 
placed in the 
centre of each 

lobe of the leaf. Immediately these are touched the outer edges 
suddenly close up, which prevents the escape of the fly or other 
insect which may have intruded. This naturally causes the im- 
prisoned insect to struggle more vigorously to gain its freedom. 
In so doing it is in constant contact with the sensitive bristles, 
which causes the sides to become compressed more firmly, 
until at last the unfortunate insect becomes so wedged that it 
cannot move, and it ultimately dies from suffocation. Soon after 



Fig. 411. — DiON^A muscipula. 



ox PITCHER AND IXSECTI VOROUS PLANTS 



the insect is dead irritation ceases and the apical lobe assumes 
its normal proportions, spreading its sides ready to entrap the 
next insect that may come in contact with its central bristles. 

Of the carnivorous character of this and the so-called insect- 
absorbing plants, my experience, derived from close observation 
of the Dion^a and others of this section, is such that I must 
draw a distinct line between the term Insect-catching '"' and the 
more generally used appellation "Insectivorous" (Insect-eating). 
As to the former, there can be no dispute : but as to the eatmg 
powers, this is quite an open question. I find that immediately 
after the insect is really dead, as stated above, the plant assumes 
its proper character. With regard to the insect which has been 
destroyed, the plant has no power to cast it away, and it gradually 
decays on the surface of the leaf. I have also noted that when 
the unfortunate creature happens to be a spider or a fly of unusual 
proportions, the decomposition that follows after death often 
causes the destruction of the leaf also : in fact, if allowed to 
remain on the surface lona: enough, it will rot the leaf through. 
This being the case, I cannot see what advantage is derived by 
the plants, or recognise the carnivorous instincts with which they 
are popularly credited. 

The cultural requirements of Dioncea Tfiuscipula are not 
extensive. The plants may be easily cultivated in a cool green- 
house, or with the cold sections of Orchids. They are usually 
imported from Carolina and Florida by nurserymen. The 
potting compost required is a mixture of peat, leaf-soil, li\-ing 
sphagnum, and sand. The pots used should be clean, not too 
larse, and well-drained : this latter feature is essential, as the 
least stagnation is fatal to the well-being of the plants. The 
potting compost should be pressed moderately firm about the 
base of the plants, which should be raised to within a short 
distance of the rim of the pot. During the active season of 
growth — the early spring and summer months — DionEeas require a 
liberal supply of water at the roots. Drier conditions may be 
afforded during the resting season, but sufficient must be given 
to sustain the plants in a plump condition. A bell-glass may 
be placed over them to prevent dust or insects from coming 
into contact with the leaves while in an active state of growth. 




For a number of 3'ears the cultivation of stove plants has 
held a high place in British Gardening, and no wonder when 
one considers the pleasure of growing, enjoying, and studying 
the beautiful, curious, and useful plants of tropical countries 
in our own gardens, and the instruction derived therefrom. 
The extensive commercial relations Great Britain enjoys in trading 
with foreign countries, together with her numerous colonies in all 
parts of the world, places her people in a unique position for 
investigating the resources of the Vegetable World, and procuring 
the beautiful and curious plants of the tropics. This has been 
taken advantage of and extended by the liberality of private 
individuals and enterprising commercial firms, in sending plant- 
collectors to all parts of the world. Our Government has also 
established botanic gardens at home and in many of the 
colonies, with ardent directors to develop the resources of nature 
and to extend our knowledge of both economic and decorative 
plants. 

Stove plants are those which are natives of tropical countries, 
and their successful cultivation requires considerable heat, and 
generally a large amount of moisture, in order to approximate to 
the conditions under which they grow naturally. Nevertheless 



ox STOVE PLANTS. 



certain modifications are found to be necessarv when under 
artificial treatment. In treating this subject, it is proposed for 
facility of reference to divide the plants into three classes : 
(i), Flowering Plants ; (2), Ornamental Foliage Plants ; (3) 
Climbers, Wall and Pillar Plants. 

Houses. — First, however, as to the houses best adapted for 
growing the plants, and the method of furnishing the necessar}- 
temperature. Span-roofed houses are found to be the most 
suitable, as the light obtained inside is more equal and 
better diffused than in other kinds. A central bed to provide 
bottom-heat, or a stage of slate or similar material, should be 
provided ; this may be covered with broken Derbvshire spar 
or shell-gravel on which to stand the pots. This has a very 
neat and tidy appearance, and is easily kept moist when 
necessary by either syringing between the pots or using a rose 
watering-pot. On each side may be a bed the length of the 
house, having hot-water pipes covered with cocoanut-fibre in which 
plants may be plunged that require bottom-heat. A tank running 
along under the central stage with a flow - and - return pipe 
running through it, will help to keep up the necessar}- aerial 
moisture, and also be a handy source of supply for waterina: the 
pots and syringing overhead. It should be borne in mind that 
as rain-water is the best for both watering and syringing, it will 
be advisable to make provision for collecting as much of this as 
possible : this may be done by enlarging the tank, making it 
both wider and deeper, and dividing it off" from the long narrow 
and shallow tank. 

For maintaining the proper atmospheric temperature hot-water 
pipes may be laid under the paths, with iron gratings above to 
allow the heat to pass readily through ; or they may be arranged 
up the side walls or under the staging. The side walls of the 
house about 3ft. above the ground-level should be glazed so as 
to make the structure as light as possible, as for several months 
of the year all the light that it is possible to obtain will be 
necessary for the proper development of the plants growing 
inside. 

Where only one house is used as a stove, it should be divided 
across the middle by a glazed partition. The two divisions 
may then (at certain seasons of the year) be kept at slightly 
different temperatures, and the atmosphere of one may be kept 
drier to ripen the wood and also to allow that period of rest 
which is so necessar}- to a large number of plants. 

Soils and Potting Materials. — Good loam is essential, and 
this should be the top spit from a pasture, with plenty of fibrous 
roots in it. It should be stacked for several months before it 
is required for use in a good-sized heap, with the grassy side 
downwards. 



640 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

Gocd fibrous, turfy peat, of a sandy nature, is another requisite, 
and when used should be broken into lumps with the hands. 
For some plants, such as Anthuriums, it is desirable to remove a 
quantity of the fine matter. This may be done by slightly 
beating the broken lumps with a stick. 

Leaf-mould, when obtained by collecting the leaves of Oak, 
Beech, Elm, &:c. (avoiding those of a poisonous nature, such as 
Laurels), putting them in a large heap and occasionally turning it 
over to sweeten it, is very useful for many plants. It is highly 
important that it is sweet and free from fungus. 

Cow-dung, when well decayed, is a very safe manure to use 
for plants that require a little stimulant. 

Coarse silver-sand is extensively used for striking cuttings 
and for mixing in composts to keep them sweet and porous. 

Charcoal, in lumps, is another useful material for mixing in the 
soil to keep it open, and for the roots of plants to cling to. 

Live sphagnum should have all the grass, leaves, and refuse 
picked out before using. 

Cocoa-nut refuse is a clean and suitable material for hot-beds, 
and for plunging plants that require bottom - heat (if hot-water 
pipes are supplied to provide the necessary heat). 

Artificial manures are offered in abundance. ]\Iany of them 
are of good quality, and are of great benefit if used judiciously. 

General Hints on Culture. — Stove plants should be 
encouraged to make most of their growth during the spring and 
summer months, when there is plenty of sunlight to develop 
it. They should be repotted in the spring, just as they are 
commencing to grow, and the heat and moisture in the house 
increased. In repotting, clean, dry pots, with efficient dramage, 
should be used, and soil in a proper state as regards moisture, 
and sufficiently warmed to prevent chilling of the roots. In 
ventilating, cold draughts must be avoided, and the ventilators 
be closed as early in the afternoon as is consistent with safety 
to economise the sun heat, which will be found to be 
more beneficial to the plants than an indiscriminate use of 
fire-heat. 

JJ\itering. — The water used both for watering the soil and for 
syringing overhead should be of about the same temperature as 
that of the house. In waterins: sive sufficient to wet the whole 
ball of earth quite through, but be careful not to apply any 
water unless required, or the soil will become sodden and 
sour. Clean rain-water is much the best when it can be obtained 
in sufficient quantity. If well-water is used it should be exposed 
to the air for some time beforehand. 

Shading. — During the bright days of spring and summer most 
plants require a little protection from bright sunshine. For this 
purpose a material called hothouse shading " is made into blinds, 
and fixed to rollers to cover the roof. Care should be taken to 



ox STOVE PLANTS. 



641 



draw up the blinds when the weather becomes cloudy, to 
prevent the plants from becoming drawn and weak. 

Flowering Plants. 

From the wealth of species and varieties of stove flowering 
plants we shall make what we consider a selection of the most 
popular and best for general cultivation. In some cases we 
know where so many plants of intrinsic beauty and attraction 
offer their claims on our attention, it will be somewhat difficult 
to decide what old friends to leave out of the list. We shall, 
however, make the selection as varied as possible, and include 
those which, not by their rarity alone, but by their real merits 
are deserving of cultivation, and such as are readily obtainable 
and to be found in current trade catalogues of the firms making 
these plants a speciality. 

AcHiMENES. — A genus 01 favourite ornamental perennials with 
showv, brisht-coloured flowers, natives of Central and South 
America. The species and varieties are now very numerous, 
with a great variety of shades, m.ost of which are pretty and 
attractive. They have tuberous roots covered with small scales, 
and it is from these that the plants are chiefly propagated. Cuttings, 
however, strike freel}", and new varieties are raised from seed. A 
moist, well-drained soil, consisting of equal parts of peat, loam, 
and leaf-mould, with a little manure and sand, not too firmly 
pressed, suits their requirements, and they may be grown in 
pots, pans, or baskets. The tubers may be planted just 
under the surface, in batches, from January to April, keeping 
the pots in a light, warm situation, near the glass, to prevent the 
young growths from becoming drawn and weak. Water sparingly 
at first, but freely when well rooted. Attend to staking and 
tying when the plants are a few inches high. After the flov\-ering- 
season gradually withhold water and keep the roots dry and warm 
throushout the winter until it is desirable to start them into fresh 
growth. When growing, a temperature of between 6odeg. and 
75deg. is suitable for Achimenes : and when at rest 5odeg., with 
the pots turned on their sides in a dry place. Some grand 
varieties are : Admiration, Ambroise Yerschaffelt, Baumannii, 
Carl Woolfarth, Diadem, Estelle, Firefly, Grandiflora, Harry 
Williams, Lady Lyttelton, Longiflora ^^lajor, Mauve Queen, 
Pardusa, Rosea IMagnifica, Scarlet Perfection, and Venusta. 

.EcH.AiEA FULGEXS (Fig. 412) is a valuable decorative plant, 
producing coral-red and violet flowers, which last a long time in 
perfection. It is an epiphytal plant, growing on trees in the 
South American forests, but is easily cultivated in pots in a 
compost of fibrous loam, rough peat, and leaf-mould in equal 
proportions, if liberally supplied with water. Increased by suckers 
planted in small pots. A. Marice Regime, from Costa Rica, is 

2 T 



642 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



another handsome species with recurved leaves from i2\n. to i8in. 
long, arranged in a vase-like manner, and having spiny margins. 
]t is of robust growth, producing an erect flower-spike, the 

beauty of which is enhanced 
by rich magenta bracts 
fading to rose, the upper 
part being thickly set with 
dark blue flowers, changing 
with age to rose-pink. Like 
the former species, this lasts 
several weeks in perfection, 
and it thrives under the 
same treatment. 

.^^SCHYNANTHUS 

is a genus of small 
shrubs with gene- 
rally rather thick 
opposite leaves and 
handsome tubular 
flowers in terminal 
fascicles ; most of 
the species are na- 
tives of East India 
and Java. Fibrous 
lumps of peat with 
a few clean pot- 
sherds and pieces 
of charcoal and a 
sprinkling of silver- 
sand, suit them 
very well. Most of the species should be kept moist and growing 
all the year in a warm part of the stove. They make elegant 
basket-plants for hanging from the roof. Boschianus (Fig. 

413) has vermilion-coloured flowers; grandifloriis^ scarlet; 

yE. Lobbianiis, scarlet and purple ; longifloms^ scarlet ; 

yE. pulcher^ scarlet and yellow; and yE. speciosus, orange and 
red. yE. sple?ididiis is a hybrid raised from yE. grandiflorus 
and /E. spedosus, and has violet, scarlet, and orange flowers. 

Agalmyla staminea, from Java, has large, oblong, acuminate 
leaves, with beautiful axillary bunches of red tubular flowers. It 
succeeds well on blocks, or in baskets, treated like yEschy- 
nanthiis, to which it is closely allied. 

Allamanda neriifolia, from Mexico, possesses the merit of 
flowering freely in a young state, and is of easy culture. Flowers, 
orange-yellow in terminal bunches ; leaves resembling those of 
the Oleander. It may be raised from cuttings of young growths 
in spring. The old plants should be cut back after flowering. 





Fig. 412. — ^CHMEA FULGENS. 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



643 



Repot in the spring, using a good substantial soil of two parts 
fibrous loam, and one part leaf-mould and sand, in well-drained 
pots. A. Willia?nsii is of dwarf, compact, bushy habit, with rich 
dark green foliage, and produces an abundance of beautiful, clear, 
bright yellow, sweet-scented flowers from 3^in. to 4^in. in diameter 
the whole summer; it also flowers freely in small pots. 

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum). — These truly gorgeous flowers are 
among ihe most brilUant and effective in the whole Vegetable 
Kingdom. By the untiring efforts and skill of the hybridist the 
most gratifying results have been attained in the improvement of 
shape, colours, and substance of the flowers, from a horticultural 
point of view, leaving now little to be desired. The beautiful 
hybrid varieties are now ousting the formerly high-prized species 
— so much so that the latter are now comparatively little grown 
and with difficulty obtained, even if required. 




Fig. 413. — ^SCHYNANTHUS BOSCHIANUS. 



Turn the bulbs out of their pots in January or February, 
remove all the old soil, and thoroughly cleanse them from all 
decayed matter. Repot rather firmly in a compost of two-thirds 
good fibrous loam and one-third of equal parts cow-manure and 
leaf-mould, with a small quantity of sharp sand. It is a good 
plan to mix the loam and cow-manure in layers in a good- 
sized heap six months before it is required for use. Insert the 
bulbs about two-thirds of their depth in the soil and plunge 
the pots in old tan or leaf-mould, with a gentle bottom-heat, 
and a night temperature in the atmosphere of ssdeg. to 6odeg. 
Water sparingly until growth commences and the flower-stems 
and foliage appear, and then apply moisture more freely. After 



644 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the flowering season, when growth is completed, gradually with- 
hold water, and give the bulbs a period of rest. 

Where bottom-heat is not available, it is advisable to 
prevent the bulbs from rotting, to repot soon after flowering. 
Remove only a portion of the old soil, and stand the pots 
on shelves or stages, and when the flower-stems show, water 
with weak liquid manure. Propagate by offsets from the old 
bulbs or by seeds sown in March in gentle heat. The seedlings, 
with careful treatment, flower in three years from time of sowing. 
The following selection are excellent for shape and substance, 
and contains a nice variety of colours : Beethoven, light orange, 
with white veins ; Conqueror, bright crimson-scarlet, very large ; 
Eclipse, white, striped with crimson-scarlet ; Eldorado, orange- 
scarlet, with darker veins ; Empress of India, scarlet, with white 
rays ; Figaro, crimson, with small grey eye ; Meteor, white, 
striped with reddish-crimson ; Southey, scarlet, with while and 
green rays ; The A^igil, white, with red markings. 

Amasonia. — Dwarf shrubs frcm Tropical x^merica, well deserving 
of cultivation. A. calycina {piniicea) is a most striking and beautiful 
species, well adapted for pot culture, and of comparatively recent 
introduction. Its racemes of creamy-white flowers are highly 

enhanced by rich vermilion 
crimson bracts arranged in 
pairs. A compost of peat 
and loam with a little silver- 
sand suits it best, and it 
may be propagated from 
cuttings in heat under a 
bell-glass or in a propa- 
gating-case. 

Anthurium. — A genus 
of Aroids, many of the 
species and varieties being 
of great beauty, and, owing 
to their novel character, 
peculiarly fascinating. They 
thrive best in very fibrous 
peat, from which a portion 
of the dusty matter has 
been removed, and with 
a little fresh sphagnum 
and a few clean crocks 
and lumps of charcoal interspersed. In potting keep the crown 
of the plant raised on a mound above the level of the pot, 
and ensure thorough drainage. A. Andreanum (Fig. 414) is a 
beautiful species of neat habit, with oval heart-shaped spathes, 
5 in. long, of a glowing orange-scarlet, the surface being irregularly 




Fig, 414. — Anthurium Andreanum. 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



645 



corrugated, and shining as though varnished ; the spadix 
is usually from 3in. to 4in. long, and yellowish. A. A. album 
is an effective white variety, with a less corrugated spathe than 
the type. A. Scherzerianum (Flamingo Flower), from Guatemala, 
is a popular and striking plant, the gorgeous coral-red spathes 
and curved spadices lasting a long time in perfection. There is 
a white variety called Diwivierianum, whilst parisiense has fine 
rose-pink spathes, and Rothschildianum white, spotted and freckled 
with red. Wardii is the largest and best of the red-spathed 
varieties, being 6in. long and 4in. wide, and of the most brilliant 
scarlet. 

Aphelandra aurantiaca Roezlii, a native of Mexico, has 
handsome foliage and terminal spikes of bright scarlet flowers 
produced in winter. 
Soil : peat, loam, and 
sand. Syringe fre- 
quently when growing, 
to nourish the foliage 
and keep down 
insects. 

A R D I s I A 

C R E N U L ATA 

(Fig. 415) is 
a handsome 
evergreen 
shrub from 
Mexico, pro- 
ducing reddish- 
violet flowers 
and panicles 
and coral-red 
berries. Propa- 
gate from seed 
or cuttings, and 

grow in equal parts peat, loam, leaf-mould, and sand. Sponge the 
leaves and stems to keep down Scale, which are apt to be trouble- 
some if neglected. A. c. alba is a variety producing white berries. 

Ataccia {Tacca) cristata, when in flower, is a most curious 
looking plant, native of the Malayan Archipelago. It has an 
underground rhizome, from which a few leaves are produced. 
The flower-scape is erect, terminating in a one-sided umbel in an 
involucre of four unequal bracts ; the flowers are crowded 
together, of a dark violet-purple, and though not handsome, 
never fail to attract attention by the quaintness of their grouping. 
It may be propagated by division, and grown in peat, loam, and 
sand, with a few lumps of charcoal interspersed. 

Begonia. — There is probably no class of plants that 
stand so high in popular favour, or that are more deserving 




Ardisia crenulata. 



I 



646 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 




Fig. 416. — Begonia manicata. 



of extensive culture than the Begonia. The species are very- 
numerous, and the varieties, most of them of great beauty, are innu- 
merable. Diligent hybridisers 
have taken such an interest 
in increasing and improving 
varieties, that we are now 
never without a good display 
of flowers the whole year 
through. Especially is this 
the case with the tuberous- 
rooted section, for, by cross- 
ing, the late-flowering sorts 
with B. socot?'ana, we now 
have a class of winter- 
flowering hybrids of great 
value as decorative plants. 
It would be useless to recom- 
mend any particular varieties 
whilst so many new hybrids 
of sterling worth, both double- 
and single-flowering, are being 
constantly added. AVe, how- 
ever, still have a great liking and admiration for many of the 
old evergreen and perpetual-flowering kinds, such as B. fuchsi- 
oides, B. hjdrocotylifolia, B. ins ignis ^ B. manicata (Fig. 416), B. 

nitida^ B. pa?^nJlo?'a, 
B. Bfavisii {Y\g. 417), 
&c. ; while the newer 
winter - flowering hy- 
brids, such as John 
Heal, ]\Irs. Heal, 
Adonis, Winter Gem, 
Gloire de Lorraine, 
Gloire de Sceaux, and 
the semi-double En- 
sign, are so beautiful 
that they need no 
word of praise to 
recommend them. 

Equal parts of peat, 
loam, leaf-mould, and 
sand form a suitable 
compost for Begonias, 
and they are of easy 
culture. The ever- 
green sorts need a 

liberal supply of water during growth, and the tuberous-rooted 
varieties require their tubers well ripened after flowering, and 




Fig. 417. — Begonia Davisii. 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



647 



to be kept dry during the resting season. Propagation is readily 
effected by cuttings and by seeds. The latter, being extrenriely 
minute, must not be covered with soil as is customary in sowing 
most seeds. Have the finely-sifted compost made level about ^in. 
below the top of the pot, watered with a fine rose, and left for 
a short time to drain. Then sprinkle the seed thinly and evenly 
all over the surface, cover the pot with a pane of glass, and 
shade with a piece of paper till germination takes place ; gradu- 
ally inure the young seedlings to light and air, and prick out 
into pans or boxes as soon as big enough to handle, continuing 
to shade from bright sunshine. Some kinds, such as B. socotrana, 
produce bulbils at the base of the main stem ; these may 
be detached, and 



grown on to form 




plants. 

BURBIDGEA NI- 

TiDA. — This beau- 
tiful plant (Fig. 418) 
was discovered in 
North-west Borneo 
by Mr. F. W. Bur- 
bidge, B.A. It is 
a stove herbaceous 
perennial allied to 
Hedychium, with 
brilliant orange- 
scarlet flowers in 
terminal panicles. 
It grows freely in a 
compost of equal 
parts fibrous loam, 
peat, and leaf- 
mould, with a little 
coarse silver-sand, 
and is readily pro- 
pagated by division 
in spring. 

BuRCHELLiA CAPENSis, an evcrgrccn shrub from the Cape of 
Good Hope, produces handsome clusters of scarlet flowers. Pro- 
pagate by cuttings, and grow in equal parts peat, loam, leaf- 
mould, and sand, in a cool part of the stove. 

Centropogon Lucyanus is a garden hybrid of French origin, 
and being of a somewhat procumbent habit is well suited for 
growing in a hanging-basket. Cuttings taken off with a heel 
root readily, and the plants thrive in fibrous loam, leaf-mould, 
and sand. It produces its pretty rosy-carmine tubular flowers very 
freely in mid-winter, which makes it an especially desirable plant. 




Fig. 418. — BuRBiuGEA nitida. 



648 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Clerodendrons. — These beautiful shrubs are readily propa- 
gated from cuttings of the non-flowering side shoots, in sandy 
soil, under a bell-glass, with bottom-heat; also by root-cuttings, 
and from seed. Old plants should be cut back annually. 
Remove most of the old soil, trim the roots, and repot 
in spring in a compost of two parts loam, one part peat, 
and one part rotten dung. Plunge the pots in a hot-bed 
to start the plants into growth, and transfer into larger pots 
as required, according to the strength of the plants, when 
th ey will form noble bushes. C. fallax (from Ja\"a) is one 
of the most beautiful species, with large heart - shaped 
leaves on long petioles, and bearing bright" scarlet flowers in 
June. C. fragrans flore-ple?io is a garden variety, 4ft. high, with 
white and red flowers ; August. C. ijifortunatiun, from the East 

Indies, has vivid scarlet flowers ; 
July. C. Kcempfei'ia is a fine South 
American plant, with bold foliage and 
large panicles of scarlet flowers, pro- 
duced well above the noble foliage. 
C. squamatum (Fig. 419) is a native 
of China and Japan ; its branches 
are four-angled and furrowed, and its 
leaves are heart-shaped ; the handsome 
flowers are of a striking bright scarlet, 
and borne in terminal panicles. 

Clivia. — See Imantophyllums. 

Crinum. — The stove species of this 
genus of remarkably handsome bulbous 
plants are especially attractive by 
reason of their lovely Lily-like fragrant 
flowers, produced many in an umbel 
at the end of the rather long solid 
scape. Some cultivators plant their 
bulbs in prepared beds, with good results. They also succeed 
very well in pots. Rich turfy loam, with a little peat, well- 
decayed manure, and coarse sand form a good compost in 
which to pot them. Good drainage is essential, as they require 
an abundance of water when growing, which should be in a light, 
well-ventilated portion of the house. The bulbs should be 
thoroughly well ripened after growth is completed, and be kept 
quite dry during winter. They are propagated by offsets which, 
however, are but sparingly produced. C. aniabile^ C. ama^mi/zi, 
C. Macowani^ C. Makoyana, C. Moorei, C. 0}-natum, and C. pur- 
purascens are all good sorts. 

DiDYMOCARPUS MALAYANUS, a rcccnt acquisition from Malaysia, 
is a distinct and charming stemless herbaceous plant, producing 
in cymes primrose-yellow flowers, with a deeper yellow blotch on 




Fig. 419. — Clerodendrox 
squamatum. 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



649 



the lower segment of the corolla. It flourishes under the treat 
ment recommended for Gloxinias. 

EucHARis. — A genus of well-known handsome flowering bulbs 
from the valley of the Amazon. 
They make fine specimen plants, 
and the cut flowers are extensively 
used for vases, bouquets, wreaths, 
&c. A compost of two parts 
rough fibrous loam, one part peat, 
a little well-decayed manure, and 
sand suits them admirably, with 
a hot, moist temperature and 
bottom-heat when growing, and 
a cooler, drier situation during 
the resting period. Repot estab- 
lished plants once every three 
years, and supply liquid manure 
freely when the flower-stems appear. 
Propagate by offsets from old bulbs. 

ainazonica (Fig. 420) is the 
species chiefly grown ; E. Candida^ 
E. Mastersii, and E. Sajideriaiia 
are, however, all handsome and Fig. 420.— Eucharis amazonica. 
desirable. 

EuPATORiUM {Hebecliniu7n) ianthinum is an old favourite 
half-shrubby plant from Mexico, with opposite, oblong-ovate 
leaves and purplish-blue flower-heads in terminal corymbs, It 
propagates readily by cuttings in close heat ; these, when rooted, 
should be freely grown on in rich, light, loamy soil, in an 
atmosphere of 6odeg. to 65deg. close to the glass, and should 
have the points of the strong shoots pinched out occasionally 
to make them branch. It is a useful decorative plant, as it can 
be grown to blossom in early spring when flowers are scarce. 
C. atroi'ubens {Eiipatorium atrorubens) is a handsome winter- 
fiowering species from Mexico, with reddish-lilac flowers. 

Euphorbia jacquinl-eflora (^E. fulgeiis), a slender-growing 
plant, is readily propagated from cuttings in heat under a bell- 
glass in June. Grow on briskly in a good heat, and avoid 
draughts of cold air. Ripen the shoots well in the autumn by 
exposing them to sunshine, and they will produce pretty bright 
orange-scarlet wreaths in winter, and last a long time in beauty. 
Keep the plants somewhat dry after the flowering season, and 
let them rest for three or four months. A compost of equal 
parts fibrous loam and peat, with a little sand and a few lumps 
of charcoal or broken bricks, suits them. E. splendens^ owing 
to its bright red waxy involucres being very showy and durable, 
is often seen in our hothouses, and requires little care when 




650 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



well established. It is a handsome, sturdy, branching species^ 
but owing to its thorny nature is not largely grown. It is a 
native of Madagascar. 

Francisceas (Brunfelsia) are stove evergreen shrubs with 
alternate, entire, shining leaves. They may be raised from 
cuttings struck in heat under a bell-glass. The soil for established 
plants should be a rough turfy compost of three parts peat and 
one of loam. Keep the atmosphere moist and at a temperature 
of 65deg. to 85deg. when the plants are growing, but cooler 
and drier during the resting period. Most of the species have 
been obtained from Brazil, and have sweet-scented flowers^ 
which are a beautiful purple when they first open, becoming 
paler with age. F. Hopeana {F. unifiora) has violet flowers, which 
change to almost white and are highly odorous. 

Gardenias. — Beautiful evergreen shrubs, which are without 
doubt among the most deservedly popular and highly-prized of 
our stove plants. The purity of their lovely sweet-scented double 
white flowers, their shining bright green leaves, and their 
adaptability for bouquets and other decorative purposes, make 
them especially desirable. Cuttings of the young wood strike 
freely if planted in sandy peat and loam in bottom-heat under 
a bell-glass. The young plants should be grown on in a brisk 
moist heat. The soil best suited for their culture consists of 
equal • parts fibrous loam, sandy peat, and well-rotted dung. 
Syringe frequently except when in blossom. A temperature of 
6odeg. to 85deg. from March to September is none too high, 
but during the winter months 5odeg. to 6odeg. is sufficient, 
with, of course, less moisture. The plants, if neglected, are 
very liable to insect pests ; they should therefore be frequently 
examined and sponged when necessary to keep these in check. 

G. florida flore-pleiio is Jasmine-scented, and is erroneously 
called Cape Jasmine, owing to its having been first brought to 
this country from the Cape of Good Hope, where it was found 
growing in a garden ; but it is in fact a native of China ; this 
and its variety intermedia are what are generally grown. For- 
timeaiia is a variety with larger flowers. G. radicans and its 
variety major are much smaller in habit than the preceding, 
but very pretty, and flower freely in very small pots. 
• The following are single-flowered, and may be considered a 
different section. G. citriodora, from Natal, makes a pretty plant, 
with numerous single Citron-scented white flowers. G. Stanleyana, 
a native of Sierra Leone, is a splendid plant, with handsome 
foliage and large trumpet-shaped, sweet-scented flowers, 6in. long, 
which are white, with chocolate-coloured spots, and are freely 
produced all over the plant. 

Gesneras and N^egelias are herbaceous, tuberous-rooted 
plants, with attractive flowers, and some varieties have, in addition, 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



very handsome foliage. Plant the roots just under the surface 
in two parts fibrous peat, one part leaf-mould, and a liberal 
sprinkling of sharp silver-sand, in well-drained pots. Water very 
sparingly until the young plants come up and make some fibrous 
roots, then rather liberally. Give them plenty of light, heat, and 
moisture in the atmosphere, but do not syringe much overhead. 
Avoid cold draughts, the leaves being rather delicate when young. 
When the plants have done flowering, and show signs of 
exhaustion, gradually withhold water until the foliage dies down, 
then turn the pots on their sides in a dry place with a tempera- 
ture of 45deg. to 55deg., and allow a period of rest until the 
season comes round for re- 
potting. Propagation is effected 
by cuttings of young shoots, 
and also by mature leaves laid 
on sandy compost with the leaf- 
stalk inserted in the soil. There 
are numerous species and 
varieties to select from. Gesnera 
refulgens (Fig, 421) has deep 
red flowers and large cordate 
ovate foliage, with stout deep 
red hairs. 

Gloneria {Psychotria) jas- 
MiNiFLORA. — A beautiful ever- 
green shrub from Brazil. It 
produces terminal corymbose 
panicles of handsome white 
tubular flow^ers, very much re- 
sembling those of Bouvardia 
msmi?iiflora, and may be had in 
blossom in early spring when 
white flowers are valuable. It 
may be propagated and treated 
like Gardenias. 

Gloxinias. — Tuberous-rooted 
perennials with showy and 
numerous flowers. This is one 
of the genera in which the skill 

of the hybridist has worked an important effect, the varieties 
being now innumerable and of the richest colours and markings. 
Few of the species with which we were a few years ago 
acquainted are now grown, except in botanic gardens. The 
erect-flowering varieties are the most popular, as their lovely 
flowers are seen to greater advantage. 

The thick fleshy tubers should be potted in equal parts 
fibrous loam, peat, rotten dung, and sand in pots a little larger 




Fig. 421. — Gesnera refulgens. 



652 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



than the tubers, with the crown just under the surface of the 
soil and placed on shelves or stages in a position well exposed 
to the light to prevent the growth from being drawn. When the 
pots get full of roots water liberally. After the flowering season 
gradually withhold water to ripen the tubers. During the winter 
season the pots may be turned on their sides in any warm 
place to keep the soil dry ; or the tubers may be shaken out of 
the soil and stored in dry silver-sand well protected from the 
cold. Propagation is readily effected by leaves planted as cuttings, 
or by seed, which may be sown in March. 

GoLDFUSSiA ANisoPHYLLA, a winter blue-flowering stove ever- 
green from Tropical Asia, makes pretty little bushy plants from 
cuttings. It should be grown in loam, leaf-mould, and sand 
in a light place, such as on a shelf near the glass. 

Hedychium.— Herbaceous perennials from Tropical Asia, with 
handsome, fragrant flowers. After the flowering season, keep 
rather cool and dry, to allow a period of rest through the 
winter. Remove most of the old soil in January or February, 
and repot in three parts fibrous loam, one part turfy peat, one 
part rotten dung, and a little coarse sand. Water freely when 
in full vigour, and remove to a cooler place when in blossom, 

to prolong the 
flowering season. 
Propagate by di- 
vision in spring. 
H. aiigustifolimn 
(orange scarlet), 
H. conorarium 
(white), and 
H. Gardiierianum 
(yellow) are the 
most popular 
varieties. 

Hibiscus. — A 
genus of evergreen 
shrubs, of vigor- 
ous habit. The 
numerous varie- 
ties, both single 
and double, of H. 
rosa sinenis (Fig. 
422) produce most brilliant scarlet, pink, and yellow flowers. 
They thrive either in pots or planted out in equal parts fibrous 
loam and peat, with the addition of a little well-decayed manure, 
charcoal, and sand. Prune the straggling shoots, and start the 
plants in a brisk, moist heat in spring ; freely water and syringe 
overhead during growth, but keep rather dry during winter. 




ON STOVE PLANTS. 



Increase by cuttings or by seeds. H. schizopetahis is a most singular 
and elegant plant, the petals being deeply cut and fringed. 

HiPPEASTRUM. — This is the correct name of the plants usually 
classed as " Amaryllis." 

Imantophyllums {Clivia), of which there are now many hand- 
some valuable seedling varieties, may be grown in a greenhouse, 
but to produce them in perfection a little more heat is necessary 
during the growing season. They are easily propagated by divi- 
sion, and grow freely in two parts good fibrous loam, one part 
well-decayed manure, and a little sharp sand. Water freely, and 
maintain a moist atmosphere when growing, with less both at the 
roots and in the air when at rest. /. miniatiim is an amarylli- 
daceous stemless herb from Natal, with thick fleshy roots, strap- 
shaped leaves, and umbels of many showy orange-vermilion 
flowers. Many of the new varieties, such as Admiration, Acquisi- 
tion, Mdlle. Marie Van Houtte, President, and Superbum show 
a marked improvement on the typical form, the flowers being 
larger, with brighter and more refined shades of colour. 

Impatiens.- — There are several species of this genus easily 
raised from seed, well suited for growing in a cool part of the 
stove, and when in flower may be used for decorating the con- 
servatory, e.g.^ I. ftaccida alba, a native of Java, with white 
flowers ; /. Haivkeri, from the South Sea Islands, deep scarlet ; 
the rose-flowered /. Sultaiii from Zanzibar, and its salmon- 
flowered and variegated-leaved varieties, are all deserving of 
culture. Sow the seed thinly in March or April in light, rich 
soil, and plunge the plants in a gentle hot-bed. Pot off the 
young seedlings as soon as they have made two pairs of leaves 
in a compost of fibrous loam, leaf-mould, and sand, and grow 
on in a light position near the glass. 

IxoRAS are beautiful evergreen shrubs, and owing to their great 
beauty are general favourites. Propagate by cuttings of firm 
young shoots in bottom-heat under a bell-glass. In potting 
use a compost of two parts peat, one part fibrous loam, and 
a sprinkling of coarse silver-sand. Pinch the point of the growing 
shoot to make it form branches, and tie these out to small 
sticks as they grow. Water carefully and syringe twice or thrice 
daily when growing, shade from bright sunshine, and maintain a 
regular bottom-heat of 75deg. about the roots. Keep down 
Scale and Mealy-bug by sponging with soapy water, using a small 
brush where necessary, and afterwards syringe with clean water, 
laying the plant on its side to prevent the soapy water from 
getting into the soil. The trusses of flowers are produced at the 
extremities of the shoots so that the pinching of the points 
must be discontinued in May or numerous shoots and no 
blossoms will be the result. A high temperature (75deg. to 85deg.) 
is necessary during the growing season, but during the winter 



654 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



55deg. to 65deg. is sufficient. The following species and 
varieties are all desirable, and will produce a good variety of 
colours : /. amabilis, I. coccmea superba, I. Colei, I. crocata 
rutiiaiis, I. Dixiana, I. Diiffi^ I. Filgrimii, Prince of Orange, 
/. IVestii, and /. Williamsii. 

JusTiciA. — Sub-shrubby plants easily raised from cuttings in 
spring, and growing freely in equal parts loam, peat, and leaf- 
mould, with a little sand added. J. camea, from Rio Janeiro, 
flesh-coloured ; /. coccinea, from South America, scarlet ; and 
y. spedosa, from East India, purple, are well worth growing 
for autumn- and winter-flowering. 

Lasiandra macrantha floribunda. — This is a lovely plant 
from Tropical America, and a very free-flowering species if care 
be taken to obtain the right sort. It is a plant of elegant habit, 
with bright green leaves, and magnificent rich deep purple 
flowers 5 in. across. Cuttings strike freely in the spring, and may 
be potted on in a compost of equal parts peat and turfy-loam 
with a free admixture of silver-sand. As the shoots grow they 
must be frequently pinched to make them branch and form 
nice plants until the flowering season approaches, when the 
pinching must be discontinued. 

LiBONiA floribunda. — A neat, small, evergreen shrub from 
Brazil, easily propagated by cuttings in spring and growing freely 
in peat, loam, leaf-mould, and sand in about equal proportions. 
The shoots do not require much pinching, as the plant is naturally 
of a compact, short-jointed, branching habit. It comes from a 
rather high elevation, and consequently does not need great heat, 
but will thrive very well in a warm pit or frame during the 
summer and may be transferred in the autumn to the stove, 
where it will produce its pretty tubular scarlet and yellow flowers 
freely all through the winter months. Red Spider is apt to be 
troublesome if the plants are not kept syringed during the 
growing season. Attention should be given to keep this pest in 
check, for the leaves will lose their brightness and even fall off" 
if this be neglected. L. Pen?'hosiensis is a pretty hybrid variety 
obtained by crossing L. floribunda with Sericographis Ghiesbreght- 
iana. Like its parents, it is a very ornamental and useful winter- 
flowering plant, and its bright crimson funnel-shaped flowers are 
freely produced. 

LiNUM trygynum is an Indian evergreen shrub, with ovate 
or lance-shaped leaves and large bright yellow flowers i^in. in 
diameter, which are produced in great abundance throughout 
the winter months. It is an old favourite, of easy culture if 
care be taken to keep down Red Spider, to which it is peculiarly 
liable if neglected. It should be frequently syringed when 
growing to maintain it in good health. Root-cuttings or young 
shoots soon produce neat little plants if grown in equal parts 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



of turfy loam and peat, with the addition of a Httle silver- 
sand. 

LucuLiA. — A genus of very handsome cool-stove flowering 
shrubs from Nepal, producing large trusses of deliciously fragrant, 
somewhat fleshy flowers. Propagate by cuttings in heat under 
a bell-glass. Luculias may be grown in pots, but thrive better 
when planted in a border in a compost of turfy loam, peat, 
charcoal, and sand, with good drainage. When well established 
and growing, w^ater and syringe freely. Prune the shoots after 
flowering, and keep 
rather dry, allowing the 
plants to rest for two or 
three months before again 
starting into growth. L. 
gratissima, the best known 
species, has lovely rose- 
pink flowers. Z. Pinceana 
(Fig. 423) has white 
flowers, changing with 
age to a rosy hue. 

Magnolia pumila is 
an evergreen shrub, native 
of China, yielding white 
flowers, which, when in 
blossom, will fill the 
whole of the hothouse 
with a delicious perfume. 
Propagate by cuttings of 
half-ripe shoots. The 
plants thrive best in 
good fibrous loam, with a 
little leaf-mould and sand. 

Medinella,' a beautiful genus of bold, handsome, evergreen 
shrubs. M. nmabilis, a native of India, has quadrangular- winged 
stems, with opposite leaves i2in. long by yin. broad, and large 
erect panicles of rosy-pink flowers. M, Curtisii, a native of 
Sumatra, has rather fleshy opposite leaves and white flowers 
in terminal panicles. The peduncles and pedicels are red, and 
the stamens purple. M. javanensis, from Java, has sessile 
heart-shaped leaves and terminal panicles of pale flesh-coloured 
flowers about lin. in diameter, with very dark purple anthers. 
M. inagnifica (Fig. 424) is a striking plant, with smooth, rich 
shining green leaves, Sin. to loin. long, and large terminal 
panicled drooping racemes of rosy-pink flowers, with violet 
anthers and rose-coloured bracts, which last a long time in per- 
fection. Propagation is effected by cuttings which, when rooted, 
should be grown on in a compost of equal parts peat, loam, and 




Fig. 423. — Luculia Pinceana. 



656 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



leaf-mould, with a little coarse silver-sand, in well-drained pots, 
in a hot, moist atmosphere, using a little liquid manure (weak 
and clear) when the pots are full of roots. 

MoNOCH.ETUM. — Small shrubs, natives of Central and South 

America, with pretty rose 
and purple flowers. 
Cuttins^s of the voung 
shoots strike freely, and 
make nice little plants if 
potted on and 
pinched into 
shape for winter 
flowering. A 
cool part of the 
stove near the 
glass induces a 
sturdy growth. 
Two parts peat, 
one part loam, 
and one part 
leaf-mould form 
a suitable com- 
post. J/, dicran- 
theriun^ M. ensi- 
erum, and M. sericeiun 
multiflorum are the 
sorts generally grown. 

MUSS.ENDA FRON- 

DOSA is a small shrub 
from the East Indies. 
Propagate from 
cuttings in heat under 
a bell-glass, and grow 
in equal parts loam, 
leaf-mould, and peat, 
with a dash of silver- 
sand, in well-drained 
pots. Water and 
syringe freely during 
growth, and payregular 
attention to the de- 
struction of insect 
pests. The small yel- 
low flowers are produced in terminal corymbs, but the chief 
attraction are the pure white bracts with which they are accom- 
panied. Prune moderately into shape after flowering, and 
encourage a season of rest by keeping the plants drier and cooler. 




Fig. 424. — Medixella magnifica. 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



N^GELiAS. — See Gesneras. 



Pancratium fragrans (Fig. 425) is a very 




handsome, sweet- 
scented, white- 
flowering bulb 
from Tropica] 
America. A 
compost of 
three parts turfy 
loam, one part 
fibrous peat, 
and one part 
rotten cow- 
dung, with a 
sprinkhng of 
sharp sand, suits 
this plant. In- 
sert the bulbs 
to about half 
their depth. 
Water freely 
when growing, 
but afterwards 
give only just 

Fig. 425. — Pancratium fragrans. sufficient to 

keep the bulbs 

and foliage from shrivelling. Propagate by offsets. F. guia?iensis^ 
from British Guiana, produces erect scapes with a cluster of 
elegant white blossoms, the 
rather narrow segments of 
which . are drooping and 
prettily curled. It succeeds 
under the treatment described 
for P. fragrans. 

Pentas carnea. — A pretty 
Httle soft-wooded shrub from 
Western Tropical Africa with 
opposite, ovate - lanceolate 
leaves, and pink flowers in 
terminal tufts (Fig. 426). 
Propagate from cuttings, and 
as the young plants grow 
pinch out the points to make 
them branch, and then allow 
them to grow away and flower. 
Equal parts of peat, loam, 

and leaf-mould, with a httle sand, form a suitable compost. 
P. kerinesina is a pretty variety with crimson flowers. 

2 u 




Fig. 426.— Pentas carnea. 



658 



THE BOOK OF GARDENI^Xx. 



PiLEA MUSCOSA (Artillery Plant). — Its pretty habit and easy 
culture, and the peculiar way in which the pollen is shot forth 
when a fine spray of moisture is applied during the flowering 
period, render this plant a general favourite, although the 
individual flowers can lay no claim to great beauty. It is 
readily propagated from cuttings, and grows freely in equal parts 
loam, peat, leaf-mould, and sand, with good drainage. It is a 
native of the West Indies. We have seen it planted in broken 
coke along the margin of stages, where, being well supplied 
with water, it thrives, makes a pretty edging, and does not 
encourage insects. 

Plumbago rosea. — A small shrub from the East Indies, with 
oblong obtuse leaves and rosy-red flowers in loose spikes. It 
requires plenty of water when growing, and cutting back after 
flowering. Soil : loam, peat, leaf-mould, and sand. Propagate by 
cuttings. The variety cocci?iea siiperba has brighter, deeper- 
coloured flowers. 

PoiNSETTiA {Euphorbia) pulcherrima is a striking plant 
when well grown ; it is a native of Mexico. To obtain sturdy 
dwarf plants, propagate from cuttings each year. Place the 
old plants in heat in batches (the first about the beginning of 
June), and, as the young shoots grow, cut them off with a heel 
of the old wood and insert singly in small pots. When the 
cuttings are rooted, grow on liberally, keeping them in a light 
position near the glass to induce a sturdy growth and preserve 
the growing point intact, as the flowers and bright crimson bracts 
are produced at the extremities. i\void cold draughts. Four 
parts turfy loam, one part decayed cow-dung, one part leaf- 
mould, and half a part of sand form a suitable compost. Water 
with clear weak manure-water when the bracts begin to appear, 
and after flowering keep the plants quite dry. F. p. alba has 
whitish bracts, but is not much grown. P. p. plenissima has 
brilliant scarlet bracts in clusters, giving them an appearance of 
being double. P. p. major is superior to the type, producing 
larger bracts, and is now largely grown for market. 

PosoQUERiA. — Evergreen shrubs from South America, with 
corymbs of long, tubular white flowers, valuable for bouquets and 
decorative purposes. They succeed under the treatment recom- 
mended for Gardenias. P. longifiora and P. miiltiflora (Fig. 427) 
are both profuse-flowering species. 

Reinwardtia tetragyne.- — -A handsome small shrub from the 
mountainous region of India, and much like R. trigyna (better 
known under its garden name, Liniwi trigynuni)^ with flowers of a 
deeper yellow, produced in great profusion, which keep up an 
uninterrupted display for several weeks during the dull winter 
months. It may be readily increased by cuttings, and grows 
freely in peat, loam, and leaf-mould in equal proportions, with a 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



dash of silver-sand. It should be frequently syringed when 
growing, to keep Red Spider in check. / 

Rhododendrons. 
— The javanico jasinini- 
Jloriim hybrids form a 
group of this gorgeous 
family well adapted for 
cultivation in the cool 
stove or intermediate 
house, and where a col- 
lection is kept some of 
their lovely flowers are 
thus obtainable all 
through the year. They 
range from almost pure 
white through handsome 
shades of orange, yellow, 
pink, rose, and brilliant 
■scarlet. Cuttings of half- 
ripened wood strike 
tolerably freely in heat in a propagating-case, and the plants 
thrive in fibrous peat and sand with good drainage. 

RiviNA HUMiLis. — A pretty little West Indian plant, producing 
racemes of rosy flowers, succeeded by little bright scarlet berries. 
It is readily raised from seed or cuttings, and delights in a 
compost of equal parts loam and leaf-mould with the usual dash 
•of silver-sand. 

RoNDELETiA. — Stovc cvcrgrecn shrubs from the West Indies 
and Tropical America, with opposite leaves and fragrant flowers 
in terminal corymbs. Propagate by cuttings and grow in fibrous 
peat and loam with a few lumps of charcoal and a dash of 
sand. Tie out the shoots to neat stakes. Sorts : R. cordata, 
rose-coloured ; R. gratissima^ carmine and very sweet-scented ; 
R. speciosa {odorafa), bright vermilion, salver-shaped, with a 
yellow centre ; and R. speciosa jnajor, a form with larger flowers 
than the type. 

RussELiA JUNCEA. — This is a somewhat singular-looking plant 
from Mexico. It grows about 3ft. high, with very small leaves, 
and these only sparingly produced. The slender, angular, rush- 
like branches hang out gracefully, producing at various seasons 
rich crimson tubular flowers, which droop in an elegant manner. 
It is of very easy culture, growing freely in peat, loam, and 
sand, and is readily propagated by cuttings, or by allowing a 
branch to lie on the moist soil, where it will soon throw out roots, 
and may then be cut off and planted in a fresh pot of compost 

Saintpaulia ionantha is a charming little plant of somewhat 
recent introduction from East Africa. It is easily raised from 

2 u 2 




Fig. 427. — POSOQUERIA multiflora. 



66o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



seed, which, being extremely small, should be sown as described 
for Begonias. If sown in March the plants will produce a 
profusion of pretty dark blue flowers, something like large 
Violets, in August, and these cannot fail to please. 

Scutellaria Mociniana, from Mexico, is a useful scarlet 
winter-flowering plant, readily increased by cuttings, and easily 
grown in equal parts of loam and leaf-mould with a little sand. 
It should have a place near the glass in a cool part of the stove. 

Sericographis {Jacobinia) Ghiesbreghtiana. — This handsome 
Mexican plant has smooth, light green, oval-pointed leaves, 
and scarlet flowers in terminal panicles. It is an easily-grown 
and a handsome winter-flowering subject. Cuttings should 
be struck in the spring, and the plants may be grown on in a 
warm pit or frame during the summer in a compost of loam, 
leaf-mould, and silver-sand. The points of the shoots should 
be pinched out to make them branch and form nice shaped 
specimens. Transfer the plants to the stove in the autumn for 
winter flowering. 

Strelitzia. — A genus of herbaceous plants from the Cape of 
Good Hope, with gorgeous flowers. They are propagated from 
seed, but more generally by division, and thrive m a compost 
of four parts fibrous loam, two parts peat, and one part each of 
well-decayed manure and coarse silver - sand, with efficient 
drainage. Copious supplies of water are necessary during growth. 
6". Regince is probably the best known and greatest favourite, 
producing magnificent orange and purple flowers ; but there are 
S. augusta, white and purple ; S. Nicolai^ white and blue ; and 
others. 

Tarern.emontana coronaria and T. c. flore-pleno are evergreen 
shrubs from India, with sweet-scented white flowers. They may 
be propagated and treated like Gardenias, which they somewhat 
resemble. 

Thyrsacanthus rutilans. — A stove evergreen flowering shrub 
from Columbia. Propagate from cuttings of young shoots, and 
grow in equal parts peat, loam, leaf-mould, and sand. Tie the 
central stem to a neat stake, and remove Scale should they 
appear. The graceful thyrses of drooping, long, tubular scarlet 
flowers are very attractive and orng.mental. 

Tillandsia Lindeni is an epiphyte from the forests of Tropical 
South America. It, however, succeeds well in pots in a 
compost of two-thirds fibrous peat, one-third sphagnum, and a 
sprinkling of silver-sand and potsherds the size of peas. It may 
be propagated by suckers taken ofl" in the spring, and be grown in 
a moist part of the stove during the summer ; but a slightly drier 
atmosphere is advisable during the winter. Be careful not to 
allow water to settle at the base of the leaves, as that often causes 
this species to rot. The leaves are arranged in a rosulate 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



66i 



manner and recurved. The flower-scape rises from the centre 
about a foot, and is terminated by a distichous, flattened, rose- 
coloured spathe, from the bracts of which are produced in 
succession lovely sky-blue flowers with a distinct white eye, 
which once seen are not soon forgotten. The variety tricolor 
has a green and rose-coloured spathe, and vivid blue flowers 
with a pure white eye ; whilst another form, vera, is of a dwarfer 
habit, the bright rosy spathe not being extended so high above 
the foliage, and the flowers being of a beautiful liiac blue. 
T. Zahnii, from Costa Rica, is another handsome species. In a 
young plant the leaves are amber-coloured, with red veins ; as 
the plants advance in age the centre becomes 
a beautiful scarlet, and this colour continues 
to increase until the flower-spike appears 
with its scarlet bracts and clusters of golden- 
yellow flowers, which are thrown well up 
above the foliage. T. splendeiis (Fig. 428), 
yellow, with purple bracts, is another beauti- 
ful kind showing considerable variation. 



small-grow- 



ToRENiA. — A genus of beautiful 
ing plants, with most charming flowers. They 
are easily propagated from seed or cuttings, 
and grow freely in equal parts of peat and 
loam with a little sand and charcoal. Pinch 
the points of the young shoots as they grow 
to make them branch, and train on sticks. 
Torenias are also well adapted for growing 
in baskets to suspend from the roof. 
The lovely tubular gamopetalous 
corolla and the pretty arrangement 
of the stamens and beautiful colours 
of the flowers render them especially 
attractive. T. asiatica, from China, 
has marble-like blendings of blue, 
purple, and lilac. T. Bailloni, a 
native of India, produces golden- 
yellow flowers with a purple throat. 
T. Fournieri grandiflora, from Cochin 
China, has sky-blue flowers with dark 

purple spots and yellow throat ; and alba is a beautiful new 
white variety. T. rube?is, from Hong Kong, is purple. The 
last four are best treated as tender annuals, sowing the seed in 
March in pots plunged in a gentle hot-bed. 




Fig. 



428. — TiLLANDSIA 
SPLENDENS. 



ToxicoPHL^A SPECTABiLis. — This is a poisonous, but very 
handsome winter-flowering shrub, native of South Africa, and 
sometimes called Winter-Sweet. The leaves are elliptic, and the 
flowers are produced in large, dense, terminal and axillary sprays 



662 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



which are sweet-scented and sometimes 2ft. long. Cuttings root 
readily in heat under a bell-glass, and the plants thrive in peat, 
loam, and sand. 

Tyd/EAS (Isolomas) are very handsome plants, and will thrive 

under the treat- 
ment recom- 
mended for 
Achimenes. The 
varieties differ in 
the shape of 
their blossoms, 
ranging from 
small and fun- 
nel - shaped to 
large and salver- 
shaped, and are 
of the most 
gaudy colours, 
streaked or 
spotted with 
scarlet, deep 
maroon, black- 
ish-purple, &c. 
They may be 
had in blossom 
for a long season 
through sum- 
mer, autumn, 
and winter by 
potting the 
tubers and bring- 
ing them on at 
different inter- 
vals. After 
growth is com- 
pleted the roots 
should not be 
disturbed for 
some time, as 
the tubers con- 
tinue to swell 

and mature for some time after the leaves show signs of 
exhaustion. T. amahilis (Fig. 429) is one of the best. It is 
deep rose, dotted with purple, and intensely hairy. 

Urceolina aurea (yU. penduld). — A handsome bulbous plant 
from Peru, with tubular, pendulous, golden flowers, the segments of 
which are reflexed and tipped with green ; they are produced in an 




Fig. 429. — Tyd-ea amabilis. 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



663 



umbel on a scape about gin. high. Propagate by offsets, and 
grow in rich fibrous loam, inserting the bulb to about two- 
thirds of its depth. Give very little water when not growing. 

ViNCA. — The stove species and varieties of this genus are erect 
evergreen herbs, with opposite leaves, from the East Indies. 
Propagate from cuttings in spring, and grow on in three parts of 
fibrous loam, one part peat, one part manure, and a little sand. 
Pinch the points of the shoots to make them branch, and tie 
into a nice shape. Vincas flower from May to October. Keep 
rather dry in winter, to allow the plants a period of rest. The 
old plants may be cut back and repotted in the spring, removing 
most of the old soil with a pointed stick. V. rosea has rose- 
coloured flowers with a purple eye ; V. alha is white with a 
yellowish eye ; and K a. oculata, white with a crimson eye. 

Vriesias (now included under the genus Tillandsid) are plants 
of great beauty, and thrive under the treatment recommended 
for .-Echmeas. To induce them to flower, give them a season of 
rest by standing them on a shelf and keeping them drier at the 
root : then excite them into growth by plunging the pots in a 
brisk bottom-heat, and water freely with weak manure-water. 
V. brachystachys and V. psittacina are particularly handsome. 

An extended list of Flowering Plants will be found in the 
" Appendix." 

Ornamental Foliage Plants. 

Among the denizens of the stove-house we have a great 
choice of plants with attractive foliage, which are interesting 
all the year round. Many, too, are valued for their suit- 
ability for dwelling-house and conservatory decoration ; while 
as exhibition plants they are especially popular at the present 
time, both for showing in groups and for mixing with flowering 
plants. Anyone who has seen the noble groups staged at the 
Royal Horticultural Society's annual flower show in the Inner 
Temple Gardens can appreciate their full value. 

As in the case of the flowering plants, our endeavour in 
this section will be to make a choice and varied selection of 
those which are readily obtainable at the present time. In 
horticulture, as in other departments of life. Fashion holds a 
certain control over the choice of subjects sought after. It is, 
however, a fact that, notw^ithstanding the many meritorious 
acquisitions that are being year by year brought from their 
distant habitats, and the many new hybrid varieties raised by 
the skill of our indefatigable horticulturists, some of the older 
favourites continue to hold their own. Thus while paying due 
regard to the importance of the newer species and varieties, 
it is not our intention to abandon old favourites. 

AcALVPHA. — A genus of Euphorbiaceous plants with very orna- 
mental foliage. The leaves of some of the species have very 



664 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



peculiar-shaped blotches, and are mottled and splashed in a 
curious manner with scarlet and crimson, the ground colour 
being a coppery-green. These interesting colourings are pleasingly 
developed in A. Wilkesiana when grown in a light position not 
too far from the glass. 

Two new species of considerable merit have recently been 
added to those already in cultivation. One of these, A. God- 
seffiafia, is a dwarf shrub of dense, bushy habit, having ovate- 
lanceolate shining green leaves, with creamy-white margins. A 
plant of a very ornamental appearance lately obtained from New 
Guinea. A. hispida iySanderiana) (Fig. 430), another new species. 




I 



Fig, 430. — AcALYPHA hispida. 

is one of the most striking plants ever introduced into this 
country. It is a branching shrub with broad, ovate, deep green 
leaves and pendulous, crimson, velvety, tassel-like spikes of 
flowers i2in. to i8in. long, arising- from the axils of the leaves, 
and somewhat resembling those of Love-Lies-Bleeding. This 
important acquisition was obtained from the Bismarck Archi- 
pelago, and deserves growing even more for its remarkable 
inflorescenses than For its bold, stately foliage and habit. 

Of the older varieties, A. Macafeea7ia, A. macrophylla^ 
A, marginaia, and A. musaica are all attractive and ornamental. 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



665 



These plants are readily propagated by cuttings in spring, and 
thrive in a mixture of peat, loam, and sand. 

Alocasia. — Handsome foliage plants, with often bronzy or 
variegated and generally peltate leaves ; these when well grown 
have a noble appearance. Use as compost two parts very 
fibrous peat, broken into lumps (discarding most of the fine 
dusty portion), and one part of live sphagnum, with a 
little fibrous loam and silver -sand. Put an extra quantity of 
drainage material in the pots, and raise the crown of the 
plants on a mound above the rim. Make the compost just 
firm, but not hard, and place the plants in a warm, moist, 
shady part of the house. Apply water freely when in full 
growth, but rather sparingly during the resting period. Alocasias 
may be propagated by dividing the rhizomes in spring. 

A. Teitningsii is a free, dwarf-growing, prettily-marked species 
from India; in habit it more resembles a Caladium than 




Fig. 431. — Alocasia Lowii. 

•4 

any of the following named sorts : A. Lowii, from Borneo 
(Fig. 431) has large handsome dark green leaves, veined 
with white. A. macrorhiza variegafa, a robust, free-growing 
species from Ceylon, has large, somewhat heart-shaped leaves, 
blotched and marbled with white, and with striped leaf-stalks. 
A. metallica (A. cuprea) produces bronzy peltate leaves i2in. 
to i8in. long, resembhng highly-polished metal shields; a native 
of Borneo. A. Sedeni is a hybrid variety obtained by crossing 
A. metallica with A. Loivii, and in which the characters of the 
parents can be distinctly traced, the leaves being bronzy-green, 
with ivory white veins on the upper surface and purple beneath. 



666 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



A. Thibaiitimia^ from Borneo, is the finest of the genus ; it is 
of robust habit, with leaves from 2ft. to 2^ft. long, and i5in. to 
2oin. broad, of a deep olive greyish-green, with numerous grey 
veinlets branching from the midrib, which is of a greyish-white ; 
the under-surface of the blade is purple. 

Ananassa sativa variegata (Variegated Pine-Apple) is a pretty 
Bromeliaceous plant having handsome striped leaves with spiny 
margins. It is increased by suckers taken off the old plant, 
potted into small pots, and grown on in bottom-heat. The 
crown of the fruit may be treated in the same way. Equal 
parts loam and peat and just a sprinkling of crushed bones 
form a compost in which the plants will thrive. Give frequent 
syringings and a moderate supply of water when growing, but 
only just sufficient to prevent shrivelling when at rest. 

Andropogon Schcenanthus. — -This grass is a great favourite 
owing to its easy culture and the fragrant odour emitted by 
the leaves when slightly rubbed, which has gained for it the 
name of Lemon Grass. It is readily increased by division or 
by seed, and grows freely in peat, loam, and sand. In India, 
where this plant grows wild, the Europeans make an agreeable 
tea with the fresh leaves, which is considered a tonic. An essential 
oil is obtained by distillation which is used in the adulteration 
of Otto of Roses. 

Anthurium. — The fine foliage species of Anthurium, from 
Tropical America, have a striking aspect, and are valuable for 

exhibition purposes as well as for 
decorating the stove. They may be 
propagated and grown in the same 
manner as Alocasias. 

A, crystallinu7n (Fig. 432) has large, 
ova], heart-shaped leaves of a bright 
velvety green, and veins beautifully 
marked with pure silvery-white lines. 
The young leaves are violet-coloured. 
A. magnifiaiin (sometimes called 
A. Gordifoliiwi and A. grande) pro- 
duces deep shining green leaves 3ft. 
long and 28in. broad. It is something 
like A. crystalHmim, but lacks the silvery 
lines so conspicuous in that species. 
A. splendidum (Fig. 433) is very distinct 
from all the other species. It has large, 
handsome, heart-shaped leaves, with 
blendings of pale yellowish and deep 
velvety lustrous-green shades. A. Veitchn 
makes a noble and handsome exhibition plant. It has elongated 
leaves of a leathery texture and waved appearance, 3ft. to 4ft. 




Fig. 432. — Anthurium 
crystallinum. 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



667 



long, and loin. to i5in. broad, with a deep green and glossy 
metallic surface. A. Warocgiieamnn is another handsome and 
distinct species, with leaves 3oin. to 4oin. long, and Sin. to i2in. 
broad, of a very rich deep 



also from South America, 

has dark green leaves, with Fig. 433. — Anthurium splendidum. 
a brilHant glossy polish on 

the upper surface, the under-side being of a deep claret colour ; 
the flowers are bright vermilion and freely produced, even on 
very small plants, during the winter months. 

Aralia. — The stove shrubby species of this genus form very 
useful and ornamental plants for dinner-table and general decora- 
tion, and are of very easy culture. They may be propagated 
by cuttings, or still better by grafting on free-rooting species such 
as A. reticulata and A. Guilfoylei. For compost use equal 
parts loam and peat, with a little leaf-mould and sand. 
A. elegantissima (from the South Sea Islands), A. Veitchii (from 
New^ Caledonia) (Fig. 434), and its variety, A. V. gracilUma, are 
charming plants, of most elegant appearance, with erect stems and 



Aphelaxdra. — Some 
very attractive species be- 
longing to this family de- 
serve to be classed among 
ornamental foliage plants. 
A. fascinator has rich dark 
green leaves, beautifully 
banded with white, and in 
addition produces dazzling 
vermilion-coloured flowers ; 
it is a native of Columbia. 
A. Leopoldii (from Brazil) 
has opposite leaves, 6in. 
long by 2^in. broad, of a 
deep green shade, with pure 
white veins running from 
the midrib to the margin. 
A. MargaritcB has the upper 
surface of the leaves dark 
green, with nerves of a 
lighter shade and the under- 
side rose - coloured ; the 
flowers are of a bright 
orange colour. A. nitens^ 



green, with a velvety lustre, 
with which the light colour 
of the midrib and veins 
forms a pleasing contrast. 




668 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



beautiful dark green digitate leaves, with bright midribs in 
the leaflets. A. Chabrie7'ii {EIcBodeiidj'on orientale) (from the 
Mauritius) has graceful pinnate leaves, and, like the above, is 
admirably suited for table decoration. 




Fig. 434. — Aralia Veitchii. 

Asparagus. — The stove species of this genus recommend 
themselves by their very graceful and elegant foliage, sprays of 
which are in great demand for mixing with cut flowers for 
bouquets, &c., lending a charm by their lightness and beauty. 
Nice grown plants are invaluable for mixing with flowering 
subjects to show off and enhance their attractions. They may 
be propagated by seed, thinly covered with light soil, or by 
dividing the roots in spring. Grow on the plants in three parts 
fibrous loam, one part well-decayed manure, and a good dash of 
sand. A. plumosus iianus we consider the most useful, whilst 
A. p. scandens and its sub-variety deflexus^ A. Sp?-engeri^ and 
A. te?iuissimus^ are all worth attention. 

Begonias. — B. Jiex, a species obtained from Assam, with 
bronze-green leaves and a beautiful silvery zone, and its 
numerous varieties with various shaped leaves of different shades 
of green blended with pink and crimson and silvery markings, 



ox STOVE PLANTS. 



669 



are of easy growth, and admit of a numerous and varied selection. 
All the Rex type are easily increased by laying mature leaves 
on a pan of light sandy compost with the leaf-stalk inserted in 
the soil, cutting through the principal veins, and placing a few 
pieces of broken pots to press them down on the compost and 
keep them in position. Young plants will grow from wherever 
the veins have been cut, if kept moist in a close, shady place. 
In due course these may be potted off separately in a compost 
of peat, loam, leaf-mould, and sand, in about equal proportions. 

B. Eiidoxa is a new hybrid raised from seed obtained from 
B, Burkei crossed with B. decora. It is of dwarf and spreading 
habit. The leaves are 6in. to gin. long, of a bronzy-green, 
beautifully marked with white and rose. There are also some 
new hybrids possessing the two-fold attraction of handsome 
foliage and pretty flowers, of which Arthur ]\Ialet, IMargaritacea, 
and ^Monsieur Hardy are the best. Other varieties of this 
handsome family we shall leave enthusiastic cultivators to select 
accordincr to their individual taste. 

Bertolonia. — Dwarf perennial herbs with opposite and 
generally five-ribbed leaves, which are prettily spotted or other- 
wise marked above, and purple or pink on the under-surface. 
They inhabit the dense, hot, moist, tropical forests of South 
America. Under cultivation they succeed best in shallow, well- 
drained pans in peat, leaf-mould, and silver-sand, covered with 
bell-glasses in a shady situation. They may be increased by 
cuttings in spring. There are several hybrid varieties in 
cultivation of continental origin, which, with their bright 
colourings and silvery markings, are little gems. 

Brexia. — The species of this genus are handsome stove shrubs, 
w^ith rather leathery leaves. They are easily increased by cuttings : 
or a leaf cut off with a bud at the base and planted in sandy 
soil under a propagating-glass will grow- into a young plant. Two 
parts loam with one of peat and sand suit them for a compost, 
with good drainage, as they require a liberal supply of water. 
B. madagascariensis and B. spinosa are natives of Madagascar. 
B. chrysophylla was obtained from the Mauritius. 

Brownea graxdiceps is a handsome leguminous evergreen 
shrub from Venezuela, with pinnate leaves, having about twelve 
pairs of leaflets. Cuttings of ripened wood will strike in heat 
under a bell-glass, and the plants may be grown in loam, peat, 
and sand, with good drainage and careful watering in winter. 

Caladium. — The various species and numerous hybrid varieties 
of this genus constitute a very attractive and useful class of plants 
for general decorative and exhibition purposes. The beautiful 
shadings and bright colourings of their leaves are truly deserving 
of admiration. They have, so far as we know, only one 



670 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Staging near 



drawback, that is, some cultivators are apt to lose the tuberous 
roots by decay during the winter season. This is, however, 
easily overcome if a httle care is exercised to thoroughly ripen 
the tubers in the autumn by gradually withholding water. After 
the leaves have died down, and the roots are quite dormant, turn 
them out, remove all the soil, and store them in dry silver-sand, 
placing a layer of sand and a layer of tubers alternately in a dry 
place out of the reach of dripping of ^vater, such as under the 
the hot-water pipes in a temperature of 7odeg. 

Equal parts of good 



turfy loam, peat, and 
leaf-mould, with a 
liberal sprinkling of 
coarse silver-sand, 
form a suitable com- 
post. Pot the tubers 
just under the sur- 
face in February or 
March. A little bot- 
tom-heat will help 
them to start into 
growth, but it is not 
absolutely necessary. 
Transfer to larger 
pots as the plants 
grow and require 
more room, making 
the soil rather firm. 
As they require an 
abundant supply of 
water when well 
established, it is 
necessary to provide 
efficient drainage, so 
that the superfluous 
moisture may pass 
readily away and not 
sour the soil. When 
the pots become full 
of roots frequent 
waterings with clear, 




Fig.- 435. — Caladium maculatum. 



weak manure-water, and plenty of light, are beneficial to increase 
the colourings and size of the leaves. Shading from bright 
sunshine will, however, be necessary. The leaves of most kinds 
require supporting with neat green sticks, and a little taste is 
required to tie them in a manner to show off their beauty to 
the best advantage. Propagation is readily effected by dividing 
the roots just after growth has commenced. 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



671 



The kinds are now so plentiful that the selection must be 
left to the choice of the grower. The pretty and useful little 
C. argyrites and C 7ninus erubescens should, however, be included 
in every collection. 
C. maculatum (Fig. 
435) and C. Chan- 
tinii (Fig. 436) are 
also deserving of a 
place. 

Campylobotrys 
(^Hojftnannia) re- 
EULGENS is a small- 
growing perennial 
from South 
America. It has 
dull green leaves 
suffused with red, 
and makes a pretty 
plant when grown 
in a shallow pan in 
peaty, sandy soil. 
C. Ghiesbreghtianiis^ 
C. G. 7jariegatus, 
C. pyrophyilus, and 
C. regalis may be 
added to make a 
variety. 

COSSIGNIA BOR- 

BONiCA. — A pretty evergreen shrub from the Mauritius, valued 
for its golden-veined leaves. Cuttings root readily under a bell- 
glass in bottom-heat, and equal parts of turfy loam and peat, 
with a little leaf-mould and sand, suit it for a compost. 

Crotons (Codiaeums). — ^The beautiful variegated leaves of 
various bright colours and the distinct characters of growth and 
foliage of these tropical evergreen shrubs place' them among 
the most usefiil and attractive plants grown for exhibition and 
general decorative purposes. Propagate by cuttings in a brisk 
bottom - heat under a bell - glass, and grow on in three parts 
loam, one part each peat and leaf - mould, and a little silver- 
sand. The pots may either be plunged in a hot-bed or stood 
on shelves or stages in a light position as near the glass as 
convenient, as plenty of light is required to bring out their full 
colouring. Syringe frequently and water liberally when well rooted 
and growing, but not quite so freely during the winter. 

Among the graceful Narrow-leaved varieties, Aigburth Gem, 
Aigburthiensis, Angustifolius, Elegantissimus, Golden Ring, and 
Ruberrimus are all excellent ; whilst for Medium-sized leaved sorts 




Fig. 436. — Caladiu.m Chantinii. 



672 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Caudatus Tortilis, Earl of Derby, Hawkerii, jMortefontanensis, Sun- 
beam, and Warrenii are all good. For the Larger-leaved varieties 
we select Baroness James de Rothschild, Emperor Alexander III., 
Evansianus, Musaicus, Reidii, and Williamsii. There are many 
other handsome sorts well deserving of cultivation where there 
is space for a larger collection. For these see " Appendix." 

CuRCULiGO. — Ornamental evergreen foliage plants with grassy, 
ribbed leaves. C. recui'vata^ from Bengal, with its recurved Palm- 
like foliage, is a very handsome species, while its variety variegata, 

with bands of pure white varie- 
gation, is still more striking. Propa- 
gate by offsets and grow in sandy 
loam and peat. 

Cyanophvllum magnificum, from 
Mexico, is a truly magnificent plant. 
^^'ith good cultivation it will produce 
splendid velvety leaves 
I yd. long and ^yd. wide. 
Propagate from cuttings, 
and grow on in a hot, 
moist temperature, with 
shade from bright sun- 
shine. Repot into larger 
pots as required, using a 
compost of two parts 
good fibrous peat, one 
part leaf-mould, and a 
good sprinkling of silver- 
sand. As the pots get 
filled with roots water 
copiously, and give occa- 
sional syringings overhead 




through 



the 



growmg 



Fig, 437. — Djeffexbachia Carderi. 



tive purposes. C. alternifolius and 
sorts principally grown. C. distaiis 
variegated form are also deserving of 

division, and pot in a compost of peat, loam, leaf-mould 



all 
season. 

Cyperus. — Very useful 
plants of the Sedge 
family for general decora- 
C. a. variegatiis are the 
and C. laxus and its 
cultivation. Propagate by 

and 



sand. Give an abundance of water when making growth. With 
the variegated sorts it is advisable to cut away some of the 
green growths that return to the original form, which they often 
do, or they crowd out the variegated portions. 

DiCHORiSANDRAS are South American herbaceous plants, and 
although not extensively grown a few will help to make an 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



673 



interesting variety. They are propagated by division just as 
growth commences, and thrive in a mixture of peat, loam, leaf- 
mould, and sand. Keep rather dry in winter. D. vntsaica is of 
dwarf habit, with rich deep shining green leaves, traversed with 
numerous fine white lines on the upper surface, the under-side 
being deep purple. D. Regina^ D. tcemensis, and £>. undata are 
also attractive. 

DiEFFENBACHiA. — The haudsomc foliage of this genus, with dif- 
ferent shades of green, yellow, and white irregular-shaped spots and 
blotches, are very ornamental and interesting. They grow naturally 
in the moist, shady forests of the West Indies and South America. 
In our hothouses they thrive in a compost of turfy peat, loam, 
leaf-mould, and sand, in a brisk, moist atmosphere. The acridity 
of the juice of these 
plants is very great ; if 
a stem be bitten it will 
cause the mouth to 
swell to such an extent 
that a person is ren- 
dered speechless for 
several days. This has 
gained for it the com- 
mon name of Dumb 
Cane, and West Indian 
planters were formerly 
credited with using it 
as a means of punish- 
ing refractory slaves by 
forcing them to bite a 
piece of the stem of 
D, Seguine. Propa- 
gation is effected by 
cuttings. D. Bara- 
quiniana^ D. Bausei, 
D. Bow7?ia7ii, D. Gar- 
den (Fig. 437), D, picta, D. Regina (Fig. 438), and D. Weirii 
superba are all handsome. 

Drac/ena. — A genus of numerous species and varieties remark- 
able for the beautiful colourings of their foliage and their 
diversity of character. They are readily propagated from cuttings 
of the tops or side-shoots of old plants, by the fleshy under- 
ground rhizomes, or by cutting the stems of old plants into 
pieces about lin. long, and planting them in sandy soil in bottom- 
heat in a propagating-case or under a bell-glass. As the young 
plants grow they should be potted on in two parts peat, with 
one part fibrous loam and a liberal sprinkling of silver-sand, 
plunging the pots in a hot-bed or standing them on shelves or 

2 X 




Fig. 438. — DIEFFENBACHIA Regtna. 



674 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



selection. For 
with white and 
we recommend 



stages well exposed to the light near the glass to bring out 
their bright colourings. Whilst growing maintain a hot, moist 
atmosphere, with frequent syringings overhead, and shade from 
bright sunshine. Carefully sponge the leaves occasionally with 
warm water to keep them clean and healthy. 

Among the Ked-leaved sorts D. 
angustata, D. Cooperii^ Exquisite, 
Madame F. Bergmann, D. elegantissima, 
Lord Wolseley, D. Jamesii^ D. pendula, 
and D. {Cordyline) termiiialis (Fig. 
439) form a good 
Green-leaved sorts, 
yellow variegations, 
D. albo-7?iargmata, Alexandra, D. Lin- 
de?iu, Madame Charles Heine, 
D. Regina^ D. ter?ninalis aiba, 
and Victoria. 

D. Godseffiana is a very 
distinct kind, of branching 
habit, having bright green 
leaves handsomely spotted 
with white. D. Goldieana, 
from Western Tropical Africa, 
is one of the finest 
plants ever introduced ; it is very dis- 
tinct in character from all the other 
cultivated species of this genus, being 
of erect habit with closely set, 
spreading leaves, which are beautifully 
marbled and banded transversely with 
dark green and silvery-grey, while the 
back of the young leaves is reddish- 
purple. D. Sanderiana is a remarkably 
effective species for decorative and 
exhibition work, being of a hardy 
constitution and neat habit ; the stems 
erect, with leaves rather closely 




are 



Fig. 439. — Drac.^:na (Cordy 
line) terminalis. 



growmg 
are 



plants, 



margined 



well 
with 



set and 4in. to 5in. long by lin. 
broad, the centre being green with 
grey lines and broad creamy-white 
margins. This species produces the 
best effect when planted three in each 
pot, selecting for the purpose plants 
of equal size and strength. 

Eranthemum. — The fine 
varieties of this genus are 
deserving of notice. In some, the 



foliage 
small- 
leaves 



white, while others are veined with a 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



network of gold or scarlet. They are readily propagated by 
cuttings, and require a sandy, peaty soil, with shade from bright 
sunshine. The bright colours are heightened by placing bell- 
glasses over the plants. The following are all good : E. argenteo- 
marginatum^ E. argenteum, E. igtieum, and E. sangimiole?itum. 

Eriocnema marmorata is a pretty small-growing plant from 
South Brazil, with beautiful variegated leaves. It will thrive 
under the same treatment as Bertolonias. 

Erythrina marmorata, a free growing Leguminous shrubby 
plant from the South Sea Islands, is deserving of notice for its 
handsome leaves, which are blotched and spotted with white in 
a very effective manner. The young shoots strike freely in 
spring, and may be potted on in equal parts peat and loam with 
a little leaf-mould and sand. 

Ficus." — F. elastica (Indiarubber Plant), with its smooth, 
shining green leaves, is well-known for its adaptibility as a decora- 
tive plant for dwelling rooms. When properly established and 
hardened off it will stand the variations of temperature and dry- 
ness of the atmosphere better than any other stove plant. The 
variegated variety, albo-variegata, with its creamy-white margined 
leaves, is also growing in popularity, though it will probably 
• never oust its green-leaved rival. E. Parcelli is another varie- 
gated species of considerable merit. It has leaves of a thinner 
texture than F. elastica^ but equally large, and beautifully blotched 
and spotted with creamy-white and dark green, and coarsely- 
toothed on the edges. F. indica (Banyan Tree) and F. religiosa 
(Pippul Tree, held in sacred veneration by the Hindoos), both 
natives of India, and F. sycomonis (the Sycomore of Scripture), 
from Egypt, are sometimes grown in hothouses for their 
historical associations. 

Propagation of all the above may be effected by cuttings 
taken in the usual way. Eyes with a leaf attached will also 
form plants, but take a longer time. The cut part should be 
allowed to dry a little before planting. When rooted, repot in three 
parts turfy loam and one part peat, with a dash of silver-sand. 

FiTTONiA. — Small-growing, evergreen, trailing perennials, with 
spreading and beautifully-veined leaves, from the tropical forests 
of South America. They propagate freely by division and 
cuttings in spring and summer, and may be grown in either 
pots or pans in peat, loam, and sand, in a moist, shady part of 
the stove. F. Verschaffeltii argyroneura has bright green leaves, 
with a reticulated pure white venation. F. Pearcei has dark 
green blades, with bright red veins. 

Heliconia.— These handsome foliage plants, ot Canna-like 
habit, are most valuable subjects for exhibition and grouping. 

2x2 



676 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



They are easily propagated by division just as growth is com- 
mencing in spring, and thrive in a mixture of loam, peat, leaf- 
mould, and sand, with a liberal supply of water when in 
full vigour, gradually reducing it as the growth matures. 
H. aiireo-striata^ from the Solomon Islands, is a plant that 
well repays the little trouble required to grow it successfully. 
The stems are streaked with green and yellow, and the deep 
green leaves are handsomely veined with golden-yellow. 
H. illustris rubricaulis is another handsome species, with leaves 
i2in. to i8in. long and 5in. to 7in. broad, having reddish foot- 
stalks, pink midribs, and pink veins, with some paler streaks 
and markings. 

IsoLEPis GRACILIS. — favouritc grassy-looking plant, native 
of India. It is extensively cultivated, and much used for deco- 
rative purposes, being of elegant habit and a bright green. It 
has a very pleasing effect when arranged along the front row on 
stages, where it can droop and form a sort of edging to taller 
subjects, especially when intermixed with such plants as Thunlergia 
alata and Pafiiciun variegatum. It will grow freely in peat and 
loam with an abundant supply of water, and is readily increased 
by division in spring. ■ 

Jacaranda MiMOSiEFOLiA. — This is a very elegant foliage 
plant, having bipinnate leaves with numerous pairs of opposite 
leaflets. Cuttings of half-ripened shoots will strike in heat in 
the beginning of summer, and the plants delight in fibrous peat 
and loam mixed with silver-sand. When grown with single stems 
they make very useful decorative subjects. The species is a 
native of Brazil, where, as a moderate-sized tree, it is extremely 
handsome with its profusion of lovely blue flowers. It, however, 
does not flower freely in a young state, and is chiefly prized as 
a foliage plant in our hothouses and conservatories. 

Leea amabilis splendens. — A handsome fine foliage shrub 
from Borneo. The leaves are pinnate, with two pairs of leaflets 
and an odd one, which are from 4in. to 6in. long and 2in. 
broad. The young leaflets, when first expanded, are bright 
crimson, tinged with brown, and develop into a rich glossy green, 
with a silver band running down the midrib, from which silvery 
veins spread out to the margin. It is propagated from cuttings, 
and thrives in peat, loam, and sand, with partial shade. 

Maranta. — The various shades and often bright colourings in 
the leaves of this handsome genus, with their peculiar blotches 
and feather-like markings, constitute interesting attractions of a 
high order. They are easily increased by division in spring, 
and grow freely in two parts fibrous peat and one part turfy loam, 
with a liberal addition of silver-sand, in thoroughly well-drained 
pots. A moist and shady part of the stove is best suited to 
their growth, and plunging the pots in a bottom-heat of about 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



677 




Fig. 440. — Maraxta (Calathea) zebrixa. 



8odeg. is beneficial, but not absolutely necessary. Water freely 
during active growth, and remove all flower-stems as they appear, 
in order to throw all the nourishment into the leaves. During 
the winter supply 
only just enough 
w^ater to keep the 
feaves from flagging. 
M. Warscewiczii and 
M. ( Calathea) zebrrna 
(Fig. 440), also 
Af. major^ will 
thrive very well 
in a cool stove. 
The last-named 
is highly recom- 
mended for dwelling- 
house and conserva- 
tory adornment, 
enduring without in- 
jury the dry atmo- 
sphere and lower 
temperature. Al- 
though it has been grown in botanic gardens many years under 
the name of Ichnosiphon leiicophcBies, its value as a decorative 
plant to horticulturists has only been discovered recently : for 
the majority of species a hot, moist atmosphere, free from cold 

draughts, is necessary to maintain 
them in good health. 

Mimosa pudica (Sensitive Plant) 
is very attractive (Fig. 441) owing 
to the remarkable sensibility of 
the foliage. The peculiar manner 
in which the leaves close up and 
droop w^hen touched never fails 
to excite interest. It is a small 
legUQiinous shrub with digitately 
pinnate leaves, native of Tropical 
America, and succeeds best treated 
as an annual, sowing the seeds 
in February or March, and potting 
the young seedlings off when big 
enough to handle in sandy peat 
and loam. This species is far 
more irritable than J/, sensifiva, 
another stove shrub from the same 
region, and which succeeds under similar treatment. 

MusA. — The several species of this genus have very handsome 
foliage and give a tropical effect, where room can be allowed 




Fig. 441. — Mimosa pudica. 



678 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



for their full development. They succeed either planted out or 
in pots or tubs, and are propagated by suckers. These, after 
being detached from the parent plants, should be grown on in 

rich loam and 
freely supplied 
with weak, 
clear manure- 
water when in 
full growth. 
M. Cavendishii 
(Fig. 442) is 
the sort mostly 
grown, but if more 
variety is desired, 
M. coccinea, M. sapi- 
eiituiii vitfata, and 
M. superba may be 
added. 




N E P E NT HES. 

The Pitcher Plants 
form one of the most 
interesting and at- 
tractive families of 
the Vegetable King- 
dom for stove culti- 
vation. They are, 
however, dealt with 
in a separate chapter. 

N I D u L A R I u M. 

— -The following will 
be found distinct 
and attractive 
species, worthy of 
cultivation, and will 
succeed if treated as recommended for ^chmeas. N. aureo- 
striatum, JV. cm^dinale, N. fulgens^ N. Innocentii^ N. Meye?idorfii^ 
N. pictiim^ and N. spectabik are all good kinds. This genus is 
now regarded as Karatas. 

Oplismenus. — See Panicum. 

Panax. — These evergreen shrubs are deserving of culture for 
their ornamental foliage and neat habit. The leaves are divided 
and cut in an elegant manner. The plants are easily increased 
by cuttings, and grow freely in peat, loam, and sand. The follow- 
ing are handsome varieties of P. fruticositm : bipinnatum^ miiltifididn, 
and Victorice. The last-named is a very pretty variegated sort. 

Pandanus. — Notwithstanding the sharp recurved prickles with 
which the leaves of the Screw Pines are armed, these plants are 



Fig, 442. — Musa Cavendishii. 



ON STOVE PLANTS 



679 



very valuable for decorative purposes. Especially is this the case 
with P. Veitchii, which, with its beautiful variegated striped 
leaves, is one of the ornamental foliage plants most in demand 
for decorative and exhibition work. It is propagated by offsets, 
and grows freely in equal parts peat and loam with a little leaf- 
mould and sand. P. graminifo litis and P. iitilis, from Mada- 
gascar, are good green-leaved forms. P. Sa?ideri (Fig. 443) 
is a new species of tufted habit, the sword-hke leaves having 
small marginal spines something like P. Veitchii, but the varie- 
gation consists of narrow bands of golden-yellow, alternated with 



green throughout the length of the leaves, and not confined 
to the margins ; it is a plant of promising appearance, and will 
probably become a great favourite. 

Panicum variegatum. — A pretty, free-growing grass from 
Tropical Asia, with white-striped and pink-tinted foliage ; it is 
well known and valued in gardens for its usefulness and adapta- 
bility for mixing with other plants, also for hanging-baskets and 
other decorative purposes, being of a light trailing habit. It is 
readily increased by cuttings or division in spring, and will thrive 
in any light sandy soil in pots on a shelf near the glass or in 
almost any light warm position. Although it is generally known 
as above, its correct name is Oplismenus Burmaimi variegatus. 

Pavetta borbonica. — A handsome plant from the Isle of 
Bourbon, having oblong-lanceolate olive-green leaves studded with 



/ 




J 



Fig. 443. — Pandanus Sanderi. 



68o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING 



white spots, which are pleasingly shaded with light green, while 



the midribs are of a bright salmon-red tint. It is propagated 
from half-ripened shoots in bottom-heat under a bell-glass, and 
may be grown in equal parts fibrous peat and loam with a free 
admixture of silver-sand, in a moist, shady position. 



Peperomia. — The cultivated 
species of this widely-dis- 
tributed family, principally 
from Tropical America, do 
not seem to be so much in 
favour as formerly. Some of 
the sorts are, however, very 
pretty and easily grown. They 
have thick, fleshy leaves, which 
in some cases are striped, 
spotted, veined, or marbled 
with purple and silver on 
different shades of green. 
Fibrous peat, with a little loam 
and sand, suits them, and they 
require well-drained pots and 
a moist, shady position. P. 
arifolia a7'g)-?'ea, P. ?naculosa^ 
P. inetalUca^ P. prostrafa, and 
P. Saujidersii {P. Verschaffeltii) 
(Fig. 444) are all pretty and 
free growing. 

Phrynium variegatum 
(Fig. 445). — An elegant plant 
closely allied to Ma7'a?ita ; 
it may be propagated and treated in the manner recom- 
mended for tiiat genus. It requires a shady position to develop 
its handsome variegations. The bright pale green leaves, with 
diverse creamy-white variegation, are borne on erect footstalks 
about I ft. high, and its dwarf, compact habit renders the plant 
a desirable acquisition in every collection. It is, without doubt, 
one of the handsomest and most useful foliage plants ever 
introduced, being invaluable for exhibition and all decorative 
work. 

Phyllanthus roseo-pictu-M is a shrub of easy culture and 
good habit, with rich and varied variegation, consisting of bronzy- 
green, delicate pink, creamy-white, and crimson in different shades. 
Nicely grown plants are useful for grouping, and cut sprigs are 
invaluable for vases and bouquets. It is propagated by cuttings, 
and thrives in peat, loam, and sand in an intermediate house. 
P. Chaut7'ieri. from Cochin China, is another elegant shrub of 
symmetrical habit, with glossy green leaves which have the aspect 




Fig. 444. — Peperomia Saundersii. 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



68l 



of being pinnate. P. myrtifolius^ P. nivosus^ and P. speciosus 
{Xylophylla latifolid) are also worth growing. 

Phyllot^enium 
LiNDENi is a very 
handsome ever- 
green Aroid from 
Columbia, with 
large, oblong-sagit- 
tate leaves, the 
ground-colour of 
which is a bright 
glossy green, whilst 
the midrib and 
veins are a beau- 
tiful silvery-white. 
It is a plant well 
deserving cultiva- 
tion for its attrac- 
tive appearance, 
and is easily grown 
in a compost of 
peat, loam, and 
silver - sand, and 
propagated by di- 
viding the fleshy 
roots in spring. 

Rhopala. — See 
Roupala. 

R o u P A L A . — ■ 
The stove species 
of Roupala (also 
spelt Rhopala) are 

handsome evergreen shrubs with divided leaves, the ferruginous 
downy covering on the young growths of some of the species 
adding to their beauty. When the cuttings have rooted, which 
should be effected in a propagating-case, they are not much 
trouble, requiring only occasional repotting in rich loamy soil 
and a plentiful supply of water when growing. The sorts 
most in favour are R. aurea, R. corcovadensis {R. Pohlii), 
R. De Jonghei^ R. elegantisswia, and R. Vervceneana. 

Sanchezia nobilis variegata {S. n. glaiicophylla) (Fig. 446) is 
an evergreen perennial, native of Ecuador. It has green leaves, 
prettily striped with yellow, and is readily increased by cuttings, 
and easily grown in peat, loam, and sand, in a moist part of the 
hothouse. 

Sonerilla. — Handsome plants with beautifully marked foliage, 
which in some varieties is blotched and banded with creamy- 




Fig. 445. — Phrynium variegatum. 



682 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



white, and in others studded with a multitude of pearly and 
silvery spots, whilst some produce pretty rose or purple flowers. 
In addition to the species, which are principally natives of 
India, there are several garden varieties possessing great 
attractions. They are increased by seed or cuttings, and require 
a hot, moist atmosphere, with partial shade, and a sandy, peaty 
soil. 6". margai'itacea^ introduced in 1854, continues to be a 
great favourite, and its several varieties are decidedly handsome 
little plants. 

SPHiEROGYNE LATiFOLiA IS a noblc plant from South America. 
It produces very large and handsome leaves, and requires the 

the same treatment as 
Cy alio phy Hum. It 
should be grown with 
a single stem, and 
should receive no check 
until growth is com- 
pleted. 

S T R O B I L A NTHES 

Dyerianus. — A pretty 
foliage plant, having 
ovate acuminate leaves, 
with dark green veins, 
the spaces being filled 
up with a beautiful, 
bright, glossy, metallic, 
rosy-lilac tint, w^hile the 
under surface is of a 
deep claret colour. It 
is a handsome plant 
when in true character, 
and to produce this it 
should be grown in a 
moist, partially-shaded 
position. It propagates 
readily from cuttings of young shoots, and thrives in sandy 
peat. 

TiLLANDSiA. — There are some handsome species of this 
interesting genus worthy of notice as foliage plants, such as 
T. musaica^ T. splendens {T. zebrina)^ T. fessellata, and T. vittata. 
They succeed under the treatment recommended for ^^ichmeas. 

Tradescantia zebrixa (Zebri?ia pendiila). — This old and well- 
known plant of decumbent habit, having green leaves striped 
with silvery-white, is a native of jMexico. It is useful for 
clothing spaces under stages and for edging, thriving where few 
other plants will grow, also as a basket-plant. Cuttings planted 
in any light, rich soil soon spread and flourish. To make a 




Fig. 446. — Saxchezia nobilis variegata. 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



683 



variety, T. alba-vittata, T. argentea, Madame Duquesne, and 
T. zebrina multicolor may be added, all of which are bright and 
prettily variegated. 

Zebrina. — See Tradescantia, 

Zingiber D'Arceyi is an elegant plant with tuberous rhizomes. 
The leaves are from 6in. to Sin. long and about 2in. wide, of a 
bright shining green, with creamy-white margins and stripes. It 
grows from 2ft. to 3ft. high. Z. officiizalis, of similar growth, 
with glossy green leaves, is the plant from which the ginger of 
commerce is obtained, and is often grown as an economic 
specimen. Propagate by division in spring, and grow in rich 
loamy soil. Keep rather dry during winter when at rest. 

Climbers. — Wall and Pillar Plants. 

Among the plants that come under this heading are some 
of the most beautiful and gorgeous flowering species, while 
others are attractive on account of their handsome foliage, and 
not a few by their curious and interesting characters of growth. 
Apart from this their utility for clothing the walls and roofs of 
•hothouses renders their introduction desirable, as they can be 
trained up out of the way of the other occupants, and thus 
provide a little of the necessary shade for those plants growing 
below. 

It is, however, necessary to be judicious in the use of creepers 
so as not to crowd the whole of the roof with thick masses, 
otherwise sufficient light for the plants growing on the stages 
and beds below will not be obtained, and this will result in 
weak and immature development. It is better to have a mode- 
rate number of good, healthy, well-grown specimens than a 
crowd of individuals striving for existence, as though intended 
to form a practical illustration of the survival of the fittest. 
We are well aware that in the virgin forests of the tropics 
the vegetation is very dense and luxurious — so much so that it 
requires the free use of a large knife to cut a way through 
untrodden paths. But the greatest profusion of blossom is seen 
on the margin of the forests and round the lakes and river- 
banks, where the sunlight can freely act on plants of mode- 
rate stature. Others, consisting of a larger proportion of foliage 
plants. Ferns, Selaginellas, and subjects generally of a more 
sombre tint, luxuriate in the thickly-shaded portions of the 
forests. It is therefore an important point to study the positions 
in which the different plants will thrive and grow freely when 
under artificial treatment, and at the same time mature the 
growth they make to carry on a healthy existence for an 
indefinite period. 

The climbing plants which have been introduced into this 
country are extremely numerous, and many of them are of the 



684 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



greatest beauty and interest. In fact, so plentiful are they that 
sufficient different species belonging to one genus alone could 
be named to provide creepers for the rafters and roofs of the 
hothouses of most ordinary-sized establishments. That, however, 
is not the plan we have mapped out for our readers' guidance. 
We propose to select a few from the various families ; such 
kinds as will, with ordinary care and attention, produce a 
pleasing variety, and reward the cultivator by producing hand- 
some foliage and lovely flowers. Notice should be taken of the 
particular way in which twining plants turn naturally round their 
supports, so that in training they are not forced to grow in 
the opposite direction. Some twist round from right to left ; 
that is, to a person supposed to be in the centre of the coil, 
the young shoots would pass across his chest from the right 
arm to the left. The Passion-flower twines in that direction, 
while the Hop and Honeysuckle are common examples of those 
that twine from left to right. 

As a general rule, climbing shrubs require the wood to be w^ell 
ripened in the autumn in order that they may grow vigorously 
and flower freely the next season. This may be effected by 
watering sparingly at that season, and exposing to bright sunshine, 
as much as possible without injuring the foliage. 

A little thinning and cutting out of weak shoots will be 
necessary in some cases during the growing season, but the 
principal pruning and spurring back should be done just before 
starting them into fresh growth. This is also the best time to 
remove most of the old soil from those that are in pots, repotting 
rather firmly into clean, well-drained pots, and fixing wire trellises 
if required. Water only when necessary to keep the soil just 
moist until the new roots reach the sides of the pots. If young 
shoots are produced too thickly, some may be removed in the 
manner practised in grape-growing, to avoid a too thick production 
of weak shoots, and produce an even balance of growth all over 
the plants. 

Attend early to keeping insect pests in check should they 
appear by fumigating with XL All Vaporising Compound, 
syringing, or sponging, according to the nature of the enemy. 
Use caution in ventilating, avoiding cold draughts. Close the 
ventilators early in the afternoon to economise sun heat, and 
provide thin shading for use during bright sunshine. 

Allamandas are well known for the beauty of their gorgeous 
golden-yellow flowers. The different species are natives of South 
America, and rank amongst the best stove climbing shrubs we 
have for training up the rafters and under the roof, also on wire 
trellises for exhibition work. They undoubtedly succeed best 
when planted out in a bed or border where they can get the 
benefit of a gentle bottom-heat, with plenty of room overhead 
for the branches to ramble without too much restriction. Fine 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



685 



specimens are, however, grown in pots, and well repay by a 
profusion of beautiful flowers any pains taken in their cultivation. 
They propagate tolerably freely by cuttings of rather firm shoots 
in heat under a bell-glass. A compost of two parts turfy loam, 
with one part of peat, and some coarse silver-sand suits Allamandas 
very well. As they are gross feeders water must be supplied 
without stint when in full growth, with daily syringings overhead 
except when in flower. After flowering, or in spring before 
starting into growth, the branches must be well thinned out and 
pruned back. 

The following are good sorts : A. cathartica^ A. chelso7ii^ 
A. grandiflora, A. Hendersoni, A. nobilis^ A. Schottii, and 
A. Wardleana. If A. grandiflora and A. nobilis are grafted 
on stocks of A. neriifolia this will check the tendency to rampant 
growth, and cause them to flower more freely. 

Aristolochias form suitable creepers for training up the 
rafters and festooning about in an elegant manner under the 
roof The curious shapes of their flowers, often beautifully 
veined and spotted or mottled, render them most interesting and 
attractive. The stove species have been obtained principally 
from Tropical America and Africa, and are usually propagated 
by cuttings. They succeed best when planted in a bed of loam 
with a little leaf-mould and sand intermixed. 

A. elegans is one of the best for general cultivation, it being 
of neat habit, much less rampant in growth than some of the 
other species, and a profuse blossomer, with handsome colours 
and markings. A. gigas is a vigorous grower, and requires 
plenty of room to ramble about ; it produces very large, beauti- 
fully veined flowers. A. ridicula is such an especially curious 
production of nature that a long description would fail to 
convey a clear idea of its peculiar shape and markings. There 
are several other species obtainable, all of which are peculiarly 
fascinating, such as A. Diicharirei, A. Goldieajia grandiflora^ 
A. ornithocephala^ A. ringens^ and A. tricaiidata. 

BiGNONiA. — The majority of this large genus are vigorous 
climbers, with handsome green foliage and very beautiful tubular 
flowers produced in panicles. They may be increased by cuttings 
of side-shoots in summer, and flourish when planted in a well- 
drained border in loam, peat, and sand, with the shoots trained 
up the rafters of a cool stove or intermediate house. The 
branches should be thoroughly ripened in the autumn, and well 
pruned back before they start into fresh growth, allowing them 
a good season of rest. Old, well-estabhshed plants of all the 
species flower more freely than those that are young, the latter 
having a greater tendency to make strong growths. 

B. Chaniberlaynei is a handsome yellow-flowered species from 
Brazil. B. speciosa is a very showy Brazilian species, with pink 



686 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and lilac flowers. B, veiiusta is a vigorous-growing species from 
the same country, with gorgeous orange-red flowers, produced in 
large loose bunches at the extremities of the shoots in succession 
from October to February. 

BouGAiNViLLEA. — Thcsc South American climbing shrubs, by 
reason of their pretty reticulated rose-tinted bracts, which are 
produced in threes, almost concealing the tubular inconspicuous 
yellow corollas, are very ornamental. The panicled masses of 
inflorescence are of an unusual and most attractive character. 
All the sorts succeed best when planted in a well-drained border 
of turfy loam, peat, and sand, with the branches trained up the 




rafters near the glass, where they can enjoy an abundance of 
sunlight. Very little shading is required, or they run too much 
to foliage. During the growing season water freely, but gradually 
withhold the supply in the autumn, and keep nearly dry all the 
winter. In February, before the plants start into fresh growth, 
the branches should be spurred back as Grape vines are pruned, 
and if they break too thickly when the young shoots grow, 
disbudding should be resorted to, so as to avoid overcrowding 
of branches. Some growers adopt a different system with 
B. spectabilis (Fig. 447) ; that is, they cut some of the branches, 
clean out and lay in the others, after cutting off the extremities, 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



687 



instead of spurring them back as with the other sorts. These 
branches shoot and flower earher than when treated in the 
ordinary way. Plants may be raised from cuttings of young 
shoots taken off with a heel of the old wood, or from half- 
ripened shoots in heat under a bell-glass. 

B. glabra has smooth leaves and very pretty rosy-lilac bracts, 
beautifully veined. The variety Sanderiana is very similar; it is 
claimed for the latter that it is much more free-flowering in a 
young state, and we have seen plants in small pots covered with 
blossoms. B. lateritia has bracts approaching a brick-red colour, 
and the branches are thornless. B. spectabilis (sometimes 

B. speciosd) is a very showy kind, with large rosy-pink bracts, 
and hairy leaves and stems, which are armed with strong thorns. 

Cissus. — Athough several new species have been introduced 
from time to time,, none have been found to approach the beauty 
of our old favourite C. discolor from Java, so well known to 
all plant lovers for its handsome velvety-green leaves, charmingly 
marked with silvery-white and rose on the upper surface and 
reddish-purple underneath. Its elegant habit, when allowed to 
festoon the roof and rafters of the hothouse, is very effective. 
Cuttings are easy to strike, and it grows freely in peat and sand 
with shade from the noonday sun. 

Clerodendron. — Among the climbing species of this genus, 

C. Balfoiiri (C. Thomsonice) and C. splendens^ both natives of 
Africa, are deserving a place in all collections. They are not at 
all fastidious as to soil or treatment, being of easy culture, and 
readily increased by cuttings of rather firm shoots, which, when 
rooted, may be grown on in loam, peat, and sand, and trained up 
the rafters or on wire trellises. After flowering, and when the 
shoots are thoroughly matured, the plants may be rather closely 
pruned back to cause them to break and grow vigorously when 
the season comes round for starting them again. 

C. Balfoiiri produces large clusters of flowers, the large pure 
white inflated calyx forming a pleasing and striking contrast to 
the bright scarlet tubular corolla, while the protruding pistil and 
stamens considerably add to the beauty of the inflorescence. 
C. splendens yields large bunches of bright scarlet flowers which 
are always much admired. 

CoMBRETUM PURPUREUM. — This wcll-knowu and favourite 
climbing shrub is a native of Madagascar. It has handsome 
opposite leaves, with bright scarlet flowers in terminal racemes. 
Although the individual flowers are small, the large number 
contained in each raceme, with their long stamens, have an 
elegant feathery appearance. It is admirably suited for 
training up columns and walls, along the roof, or on a wire 
trellis. Cuttings do not root freely. It thrives best when whip- 
grafted on a free-rooting species, such as C. Pi7iceana. Peat, 



688 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



loam, and sand suit it for growing in ; if too rich a compost be 
used, an abundance of growth and very few flowers will be the 
result. It is necessary to thoroughly ripen the growth in the 
autumn and to keep the plants rather dry during the winter. 
Before they show signs of starting into growth in the following 
spring, the branches should be rather freely pruned and the 
weak shoots cut out. 

DiPLADENiA. — These beautiful South American evergreen 
twiners, to which several garden varieties have been added, are 
of free and good habit and remarkably floriferous. They are 



side-shoots will strike root in heat under a bell-glass. The plants 
thrive best in rough fibrous peat, with a free admixture of 
silver-sand. In pruning, which should be done when they are 
at rest, cut away all the weak shoots and exhausted growths that 
have flowered, and, just as they show signs of starting into 
growth, remoN^e most of the old soil and repot into clean, 
well-drained pots. The following are of good habit and 
give a pleasing variety of colours : D. amabilis, D. boliviensis^ 
D. Brearleyana, D. Elliot ii, and D. iiisignis (Fig. 448). 

Ficus STiPULATA (better known in gardens as F. repejis) is a 
creeping evergreen shrub, with small, heart-shaped, green leaves, 
native of China. It is a most useful plant for rockwork or 
hanging baskets, for covering damp walls, and for general 




Fig. 448. — DiPLADENIA INSIGNIS. 



not surpassed by 
any other for 
beauty of tint 
and delicateness 
of texture of 
their lovely 
tubular, funnel- 
shaped blos- 
soms, which are 
of pleasing 
shades of white, 
pink, and crim- 
son, from 3in. to 
4in. in diameter. 
Their habit of 
growth renders 
them admirably 
adapted for 
training up the 
rafters or on 
wire trellises, 
and they make ' 
excellent exhi- 
bition plants. 
Cuttinss of short 



ox STOVE PLANTS. 



689 



decorative purposes. The flowering branches when produced are 
of a larger growth than, and otherwise distinct from, the 
creeping branches. It is readily increased by cuttings, and will 
grow in any light, sandy soil, with either warm or cool treat- 
ment in a moist, shady situation. The variety mi?ii??ia is the 
above species in miniature, and the charmingly quaint and 
graceful manner in which it spreads over rockwbrk is most 
interesting. F. barbata, from Singapore, is another species, of 
larger growth, which will also cling to and climb up a damp 
wall, and form an effective covering. 

Gloriosa. — These deciduous tuberous-rooted climbers are 
splendid ornaments to the stove, when trained up the rafters and 
along wires under the roof near the glass. Propagation is 
usually effected by dividing the tubers. Though seed may be 
obtained by artificially fertilising the flowers, some patience is 
required to grow the seedlings on to a flowering size, two or 
three years being necessary, with careful treatment. We will, 
therefore, suppose we are dealing with tubers of a flowering size. 
The pots in which they are to grow must be clean, well drained, 
and filled with a compost of two parts fibrous loam and one 
part peat, with a free admixture of sharp silver-sand to keep the 
soil open and porous. Place the tubers about lin. under the 
surface in March, handling them very carefully so as not to bruise 
them. This is especially necessary on account of the small scale 
that protects the bud, for if that be only slightly damaged no 
growth will ensue. Plunge the 
pots, if possible, in a hotbed, 
but give no water until the 
young shoots appear. These 
must be carefully trained to sticks 
or wires, being always cautious 
to preserve the growing points 
from damage and watering liberally 
as they increase in strength until 
after flowering. Then gradually 
withhold water, and when the 
plants die down turn the pots 
on their sides and keep quite 
dry all the winter until the season 
comes round for repotting in the 
following spring. 

G. superba (Fig. 449) is a 
native of the East Indies and 
produces large and curious flowers, 
the orange, scarlet, and vellow 
segments of which are prettily crimped and waved. G. s. 
grandiflo7'a is a superior variety with larger flowers and still 

G. Plantii has very long and curious- 

2 Y 




Fig. 449. — Gloriosa superba. 



brisfhter 



colourings. 



690 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



shaped tubers, but the flowers are not so bright as in the others 
named. 

HoYA. — These plants in their native habitats are epiphytes, 
growing on the trunks of trees in the tropical forests of Asia. 
They are principally climbers or trailers, with ornamental 
•generally thick, leathery, opposite leaves, and lovely flowers 
produced in axillary umbels. Hoyas are of easy culture. The 
soil best suited to them is a mixture of fibrous peat and loam 
"with a sprinkling of coarse silver-sand, and pieces of charcoal 
or lime rubbish and potsherds ; clean, well-drained pots 
must be used. They require plenty of heat and moisture, both 
at the roots and in the atmosphere during the growing season ; 

but during the resting period 
they may be kept much cooler 
and drier both at the roots 
and in the atmosphere. They 
are not much liable to the 
attacks of insects, but an occa- 
sional sponging with warm 
water is beneficial, keeping the 
foliage clean and healthy. Pro- 
pagation is readily effected by 
cuttings placed in bottom-heat 
under a bell-glass, but it is a 
good plan to leave the cuttings 
a day or two to dry before 
inserting them. H. ca?'nosa may 
be propagated from single leaves 
with or without a bud at the 
base, but except as a matter of 
curiosity this method is not 
resorted to. 

H. carnosa (Fig. 450), the 
best-known and greatest favour- 
ite of this fine ffenus, is an 
evergreen climber with thick, 
fleshy, opposite, ovate-oblong 
leaves and pink flowers, freely 
produced in umbels. It is a 
native of the East Indies, 
and was introduced in 1802. 
Honey Plant, owing to the 
secretion of a thick fluid which hangs like a dew-drop from 
the centre of each flower, and has the consistency and sweet 
taste of honey. When the waxy flowers drop off, the short, 
thick flower-stems should not be cut awa}', as they possess 
the remarkable property of reproducing flowers for several 
years. This plant may be grown on a wire trellis or trained 




ON STOVE PLANTS. 



691 



up the rafters of the house, and will thrive when trained up 
the moist back wall of a stove in partial shade, where 
comparatively few other plants will flourish. H. c. picta and 
H. c. variegata (Fig. 451) are two distinct variegated forms. 
The first has leaves with a creamy - white centre and 
green margins, while in the second the middle of the leaves 
is green and the margins are white. They are free-growing 
varieties, and very ornamental, but to retain the variegation 
it is necessary to use a little more hme rubbish in the 
compost and smaller pots, for if treated too liberally they 
are apt to revert to the type form. H. imperialis (Imperial 
Hoya) is a noble and 
vigorous species from 
Borneo ; it has ob- 
•ovate lanceolate leaves 
as large as the common 
Laurel, which are in 



and covered with 
When 
a pyra- 



pairs, 

a silky down, 
well grown on 
midal or balloon-shaped 
wire trellis it forms a 
fine specimen plant. Its 
large umbels of reddish- 
chocolate flowers, with a 
■central ivory-white column, 
each flower 3in. across, 
polished and glossy like 



wax or 



ivory. 



are 




Fig. 451. — HoYA carnosa variegata. 



and moisture when growing, 
a stove twiner, with oval, 



very 

curious and beautiful. The 
flowers have the merit of 
being sweet-scented in the 
evening. This plant re- 
quires liberal treatment, and 
coming as it does from one 
of the hottest parts of the 
world, must have plenty of heat 
H. campanulata, from Java, is 
pointed, leathery leaves, and umbels 
white, sweetly citron-scented flowers ; the somewhat bell-shaped 
flowers are best seen when the plant is trained up the 
rafters, and can be observed from beneath. H. bella is a gem 
from Java, of dwarf habit, and with small, INIyrtle-like leaves 
placed opposite ; the flowers are produced freely in numerous 
small umbels, and the individual 
pared to an " amethyst star set 
being ivory white with nectaries of a pleasing amethyst or violet. 
Being a dwarf grower it may be tied into a neat shape with 



of rather 



large. 



greenish- 



blossom has been 
in frosted silver," 



aptly com- 
the corolla 



2 Y 2 



692 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

green flower sticks ; it also makes a capital basket-plant to sus- 
pend from the roof. Next to H, carnosa this species is probably 
the most popular of the genus. 

H. Paxtonii is considered by some to be a variety of 
H. bella, and requires the same treatment. It has longer and 
more pointed leaves, umbels less compact, and the habit is a 
little more straggling. 

Ipomoea. — The stove climbers of this large genus are of extra- 
ordinary beauty, and cannot be too strongly recommended. 
Although the individual blossoms are of short duration, they 
are rapidly succeeded by others, which keep up a continuous 
display for a long season. Cuttings of the young shoots taken 
off with a heel of the old wood will strike root in heat under 
a bell-glass. Soil : loam, with a little well-decayed manure and 
sand. 

The gem of the genus is probably /. HorsfallicE, an ever- 
green twiner, native of the East Indies ; it has handsome 
digitate leaves and funnel-shaped flowers in terminal bunches 
of the most brilliant crimson. It thrives best when whip-grafted 
on a free-rooting sort, such as /. insig?iis. I. Briggsii resembles 
/. Horsfallice^ and is said to be of freer growth, producing" 
in profusion clusters of blossoms of a rich magenta-crimson 
late in autumn. /. Learii^ native of Buenos Ayres, is another 
very handsome free-growing species, requiring plenty of space 
for full development ; it produces in succession numerous large 
flowers of the most brilliant azure-blue. 

Jasminum. — The stove Jasmines are highly prized for their 
sweet-scented pure white flowers, which are freely produced, and 
their climbing nature renders them useful plants for training 
up columns and trellis-work. They are propagated by cuttings 
of rather firm short-jointed shoots, which when rooted will grow 
away freely in a compost of loam, leaf-mould, and silver-sand,, 
in well-drained pots, and even better if planted out in a 
prepared bed or border. Pruning should be done after the 
flowering season, and in such a manner as to effect an even 
balance. During the season of repose, which should always be 
encouraged, the soil may be kept rather dry, but when in 
full growth a liberal supply of moisture at the roots is neces- 
sary, with frequent syringings overhead, except when in. 
blossom. 

J. gracillimum^ a native of Borneo, is, without doubt, one of 
the best plants ever introduced, and should be in every 
collection ; it is of neat, slender, and graceful habit, with 
terminal panicles of large sweet-scented white flowers produced 
in great profusion from October to January, and more or less 
throughout the year; it should not be over-potted, the flowers 
being much more freely produced when the roots are somewhat 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



confined. Duchesse d'Orleans is another very beautiful variety, 
the individual flowers somewhat resembling small Gardenias in 
their texture and purity. J. Sambac and its semi-double form, 
flore-pleno, are deservedly popular. Other good sorts are found 
in J. azoriciim^ J. hirsntum^ and J. ligustrifolium^ all of which 
will thrive in a cool stove, and yield their sweet white flowers 
plentifully. 

Manettia. — These are climbing shrubs from Tropical 
America ; they will thrive in a cool stove or an intermediate 
house, where they form pretty subjects trained on wire trellises. 
They may be propagated by cuttings, and grow nicely in equal 
parts of peat and loam, with a little silver-sand added. The 
best sorts are M. bicolor, scarlet and yellow; M. cordifolia 
{M. glabra), scarlet ; and M. micajts, scarlet. 

Marcgravia. - — • These curious climbing shrubs, natives of 
Tropical America, are useful for covering damp walls, to which 
they cling closely. M. dubia is sometimes used to train up the 
door-posts of the hothouse, where its oval-pointed leaves spread 
out alternately on each side of the stems and always attract 
attention by the unusual character of the growth and by the 
bright, pleasing, rosy colour of the young shoots and leaves. 
M. pa?'adoxa, with eUiptic deep green leaves, which spread flatly 
on the surface of a damp wall, covering it with verdure, is another 
interesting species. Both increase readily from cuttings, and 
thrive in a peaty soil. 

OxERA PULCHELLA, from Ncw Caledonia, is closely allied to 
Clerodeiidron, and succeeds under the treatment recommended 
for the climbing species of that genus. The large, showy, greenish- 
white flowers are produced in great abundance in axillary clusters. 
The long stamens, with golden-yellow anthers extending beyond 
the funnel-shaped corolla, add considerably to its beauty and 
attraction. 

Passiflora. — The Passion-flowers are so well known that to 
describe their characters here would be superfluous. The stove 
kinds embrace species and varieties of the most brilliant shades 
of scarlet, rose, white, and blue. They are natives of both the 
Eastern and the Western Hemispheres, and are most elegant 
creepers when trained up the rafters and festooned under the 
roof Propagation is readily effected by seed or by cuttings, and 
the plants succeed when planted in loam and peat either with or 
without bottom-heat. 

F. edulis and P. quadrangularis produce delicious fruits, and 
several other kinds are edible. The flowers of P. qnadra?igiilaris, 
however, require to be artificially fertilised when grown in our 
hothouses to cause them to yield fruit. For ornamental purposes 
we would suggest the following : P. Biioiiapartea, red, blue, and 
. white ; P. cardinalis, scarlet ; P. Decaistieana, carmine, purple, 



694 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and white; P. Raddiana {P. kermesina) (Fig. 452), blood-red and 
purple; P. princeps {P. racemosd) (Fig. 453), scarlet; P. trifasciata^ 
white, leaves prettily blotched with white, 
yellow, and pink ; P. vitifolia^ vermilion 
red ; and jP. IVatsonii, green, white, violet, 
and lilac. 

Paullinia thalictrifolta. — This is 
a very handsome semi-scandent foliage 
plant, native of Brazil, with pretty leaves 

the fronds of the 
The mature leaves 




much resembling 
Fern. 



Maidenhair 
are of a 
bright 
green,- 
while in 
the young 
growth the 
stems and 
folia2;e have a 
pleasing rosy tint. 
It is very useful 
for cutting for 
bouquets and 
vases, as it keeps fresh for a considerable time, and imparts an 



Fig. 452. — Passiflora Raddiana. 



air of lightness and 
P. thalicti'ifolia forms 



elegance 



a 




Fig. 453. — Passiflora princeps. 



when intermixed with cut flowers, 
nice trellis plant, or if kept pinched 
^ into shape makes pretty bushy 
subjects for table decoration. It 
is propagated by cuttings, and 
grows freely in peat, loam, and 
sand. 

Pellionia. — These creeping 
perennial ornamental foliaged 
herbs are suitable subjects for 
baskets, for rockwork, or for 
covering damp walls, to which they 
readily cling. P. Daveaiiaiia is 
a native of Cochin China ; it has 
dark olive-green leaves, lin. to 
2in. long, slightly violet-tinted, 
with an irregular silvery band 
running down the middle of 
the blade on the upper surface ; 
the succulent stems cling to a 
damp surface, and have a very 
from Cochin China, has oblong, 
surface of which is of a dull 



pretty effect. P. pulclwa, also 
very obtuse leaves, the upper 
blackish colour along the midrib and veins, the interspaces being 



ON STOVE PLANTS. 



green, while the under-side is a pale delicate purple ; the fleshy 
stems have a dull purplish shade. Both species require a moist 
warm atmosphere, thrive in a sandy soil, and are readily increased 
by cuttings or by division. 

POTHOS. — These singular plants are worthy of notice for their 
adaptability for covering damp walls in shady places where few 
other subjects will thrive. They are not at all fastidious as to 
soil, sandy peat suiting them very well. Propagation is readily 
effected by cuttings. 

P. argyrea, from the West Indies, is a species with pretty 
green leaves, blotched and marked with silvery - white, and 
delights in a damp, shady situation. F. celatocauiis, a native 
of Borneo, has elliptic dark green leaves, and is a rapid grower. 
It is one of the best plants for quickly covering a damp wall, to 
which it will cling by numerous adventitious roots, the leaves 
spreading out quite flat and close to the surface ; it somewhat 
resembles Marcgravia paradoxa^ but is a much more rapid 
grower. P. flexiiosa^ a good wall climber, from the East Indies, 
has oblong - lanceolate pale green leaves, arranged alternately to 
right and left of the closely- clinging stems, and lying quite 
flat on the surface over which they climb. 

ScHUBERTiA GRAVEOLENS is an cvcrgrecn twiner, native of 
Brazil ; it produces umbels of handsome pale yellow very 
sweet-scented flowers, the corolla of which is funnel-shaped, 
with the tube swollen below. Cuttings of short stubby shoots 
will strike in heat under a bell-glass, and the compost for the 
plants should be fibrous loam and peat with the addition of 
some silver-sand. 

SoLANUM. — From this large and useful family we may select 
tw^o climbing species, which may be used with advantage for 
adding to the variety of the hothouse. Both propagate freely by 
cuttings, and thrive in loam, peat, and sand. S. Seaforthiamim, a 
native of the West Indies, is a neat-growing species well adapted 
for training up a pillar, where its numerous clusters of pretty 
light blue flowers are shown off to advantage. 6". Wendlandii is 
an effective climber, producing terminal cymes of purpHsh-blue 
flowers 2in. in diameter. It is well suited for training up the 
rafters, and lasts several months in flower. 

Stephanotis floribunda is a stove evergreen twining shrub, 
native of Madagascar, and having opposite, thick, leathery, smooth, 
dark green, shining leaves, and umbels of pure white, tubular, 
salver-shaped, sweet-scented flowers. There are few stove plants 
so well-known and highly-valued as this. It is one of the best 
climbers for training up the rafters and on wires under the roof, 
and the beautiful flowers are produced at nearly all seasons of 
the year, and are invaluable for bouquets, wreaths, and vases. 
Cuttings of nice, short-jointed, firm shoots strike readily in heat 



696 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



under a bell-glass. The plants may be either put out in a 
border or grown in pots in equal parts of peat and loam with 
a little leaf-mould and sand added. Water copiously and use 
the syringe freely all through the summer months. Sponge the 
leaves with warm water when necessary to keep them clean and 
healthy, and prune out all weak shoots. Should Mealy-bug 
appear attend diligently to its destruction by washing with 
spong-e and brush, and by smart syringings with tepid water. 
The sort known in the trade as Stephanotis flo7'ibiuida Elvaston 
var., should be obtained, as it is by far the best and freest to 
blossom. 

Tecoma spectabilis [Tabebiiia specfabilis), a native of Santa 
Cruz, is an elegant plant with conjugate leaves and purple 
flowers ; admirably adapted for training up a pillar. It flourishes 
in peat, loam, and sand, and may be raised from cuttings 

of firm young shoots. Keep rather dry in 
winter, and prune moderately. 



Thunbergia 
creepers, the 




-Of these pretty flowering 
owing is a selection of 
the best sorts and most varied colours : 
T. chrysops^ with blue and violet flowers, 
native of Sierra Leone ; T. cocci?iea, scarlet, 
from Trinidad; T. fragrans, ' whxie., East 
Indies ; T. g?'andifiora^ large light blue 
flowers, East Indies ; T. lanrifolia (Fig. 
454) {T. Harp'isi), blue and yellow, ]\Iadras. 
The above species may be propagated by 
cuttings, growing the plants on in loam, 
peat, and sand, with shade from bright 
sunshine. 

T. alata, with a buff-yellow corolla, and 
a very dark eye nearly approaching black 
(hence the common name Black-eved 
Susan) ; T. alata alba, white limb, with 
very dark purple throat ; and T. aurantiaca, 
deep orange, with nearly black centre ; are 
best treated as tender annuals, sowing 
the seed in February or March. They 
are sometimes hardened off and planted in 
a warm, sheltered position out of doors. 
The flowers, however, come much brighter 
stove or greenhouse. Frequent syringings 
foliage is necessary while the plants are 
to keep down Red Spider, a pest to which these plants 
are peculiarly liable if the precaution named is neglected. 




Fig. 454. — Thunbergia 
laurifolia. 



when 
under 



grown m 
and over 



the 
the 



growing 




Most plants which can be grown in glass houses with the aid 
of very little or no artificial heat during summer, and which in 
.winter require a temperature ranging from 45deg. up to 6odeg. 
Fahr., may be termed "greenhouse plants." Almost all known 
plants which grow in warm temperate regions may, with a few 
exceptions, be successfully cultivated under greenhouse treat- 
ment. The object of every cultivator should be to obtain a 
continuous supply of plants in blossom all the year round, and 
with such an immense variety to select from, coming from 
various parts of the world, and having different periods of 
flowering and resting, there is not much difficulty presented in its 
attainment. 

But before this can be done it is necessary to have suitable 
structures in which to grow and to show the plants off when in 
blossom. The best plan is to have at least two "growing 
houses " and a series of frames, in which the plants can receive 
suitable treatment. It is often impossible to provide the 
necessary conditions to enable plants to complete growth or 
to rest after flowering when grown amongst others that 
are starting ; and in most cases plants that are at rest are 
unsightly, thus spoiling the eftect of others that are in blossom. 
It is therefore a great advantage to have, in addition to the 
growing houses, another specially fitted for accommodating the 



698 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



various plants as they flower : this is known as the " green- 
house " or "show-house," and before proceeding further it will 
be as well to give a description of this and the other structures 
to be used. 

The Greenhouse. — This differs from a conservatory in that 
all, or nearly all, the plants employed for furnishing it are 
portable, whilst in a conservatory they are permanent, consisting 
mostly of large subjects grown in beds ; but a combination of the 
two may be managed, and is very effective. 

The structure should be as light and airy as possible. For 
this purpose it is best to employ plenty of iron-work, having no 
large heavy wooden rafters or sash-bars to obstruct the light. 
Of course, this mode of construction is expensive at first, but 
will be found far cheaper and durable than wood in the end, in 
addition to having the advantage of admitting more light. When 
wood is used, teak will be found most serviceable, being both 
very strong and durable. 

The span-roof form of house is preferable to the lean-to, for 
it has the advantage of admitting light on every side, while in 
the case of a lean-to light is on one side, and the plants will all 
grow in that direction, necessitating frequent turning to maintain 
their shape. The house should only be of moderate height — 
about 12ft., and having a lantern about 2ft. wide, rising 2-|ft. 
higher at the top, making the actual height in the centre 144ft. 
The width may vary according to convenience, but i6ft. will 
be suitable. There should be shelves 3ft. wide at the sides, 
two 2^ft. paths on each side, and a central bed 5ft. wide. The 
height of the sides may be 6ft., half being glass, resting on a 
wall 3ft. from the ground. 

The side shelves or stages should come to within 6in. of the 
top of the wall. They are best made of slate with a few holes 
bored in about i8in. apart, and having a raised rim all. 
round the edge. These should be filled with well washed small 
gravel stones. Wooden shelves are not to be recommended : 
they soon decay if not well looked after, and in so doing make 
harbouring places for all manner of insect and fungus pests, 
which are most injurious to plants. Shelves or stages made of 
wooden battens, with spaces in between, should never be used, 
as they allow water to run away at once, and by permitting dry 
air to come from beloiv, and to circulate freely amongst the pots,, 
cause too rapid evaporation. Thus in hot weather constant 
watering will be necessary, or the plants must be stood in 
saucers, which is not advisable, as in that case the water does 
not run away at all, and the pot is liable to become water-logged, 
causing the soil to become sour. In the case of slate covered 
with loose gravel stones, the stones allow water to run freely from 
the pot, but yet retain it ; thus continual evaporation takes place. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



699 



and the air passes up amongst the foHage of the plants laden 
with moisture. This is especially the case when they are damped 
two or three times a day. 

In the centre of the house it is usual to have shelves placed 
in tiers one above the other. These should also be made of slate 
and covered with gravel stones : but it is a' better plan to have 
a flat bed raised 6in. above the ground. In the centre of this 
tall plants in tubs or large pots may be placed ; or they may 
even be planted out, and then others not quite so tall arrang^ed 
next them, the plants getting lower towards the edge. This bed 
should also be covered with loose gravel. The paths should 
either be tiled or cemented over, and it should be noted that 
cleanliness is a very important consideration. 

The temperature of this house should range from 5odeg. to 
6odeg., and in all cases it should be at least 5deg. lower in 
the night than in the day, both in this and the growing- 
houses. 

When the soil is verv heavv and wet. the 2;round on which 
the greenhouse is to stand should be raised above the rest, so 
as to ensure perfect drainage. The growing-pits will also, in 
such cases, be better raised instead of sunk. 

The Growing-Houses. — Of these there should be at least 
two : otie structure can be divided into two parts, and sometimes 
three divisions can be made. The sunk house or pit is the best 
form, as, not being so exposed, the heat is more easily retained. 
This is a house having a low exterior wall about ift. high on 
which the roof rests, coming down nearly to the level of the 
ground. It is entered by an exterior flight of steps, the path in 
the centre being 3l^ft. below the level of the ground ; side shelves 
are fitted similar to those in the greenhouse, but they may be 
wider. The two divisions should be warm and cool respectively, 
the first having a Avinter temperature ranging from 55deg. to 
65deg., and the second from 45deg. to 55deg. In summer 
artificial heat will not be necessary in the cool end, and in the 
warm one only during very damp weather, or for the purposes of 
propagation, when a little bottom-heat may be required. The 
warm pit can be used for growing plants on, and for bringing 
them into blossom quickly, or for gentle forcing in the spring. 
The cool pit will serve for hardening oft" plants in blossom before 
shifting to the greenhouse, as well as young ones that are 
intended to i.n-ow outside in the summer : it can also be used 
as a resting pit. Both the pits can be used for propagation, 
but for this purpose they should be fitted with proper cases 
{see Chapter " On Plant Propagation '"'). 

It is a good plan in the case of these houses to make sections 
of the roof to lift on hinges, so that when the weather is suitable 
they can easily be propped open and the plants shifted, without 
passing up and down through the doors. 



700 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Frames. — It is very convenient to have a few of these, and it 
is surprising what a number of plants may be grown in them 
with the aid of a little heat. They should vary in depth, so as 
to admit of different sized plants being }2;rown in them, are best 
built of brick with wooden lights, and should face to the south. 

Aspect. — Both the greenhouse and the growing-pits should run 
from north to south ; thus the sun will rise on one side and set 
on the other, both sides getting their fair share of sunshine, whilst 
it will be right over the centre at mid-day. 

Shading. — This is an important item in plant-growing. It is 
best effected by means of roller-blinds, having a reel and cord 
at one end by which they can easily be let up and down. Fine 
tiffany is the best material. 

Wooden blinds are also used ; these consist of strips i^in. 
wide, having ^in. space in between, and bound together by 
cords. They are also made to roll up and down, but require 
to run on supports about ift. above the surface of the glass. 

Permanent shading consisting of washes should never be used, 
for it is very injurious to plants to be continually shaded on 
dull days, especially in spring and autumn, when sometimes we 
get several dull days in succession. On the other hand blinds 
require constant attention, as many valuable plants are 
frequently spoilt when in full blossom by the careless cultivator 
going away and leaving the blinds up, when during his absence 
the sun has come out and shone fiercely. Permanent shade 
may be used for the sides of the house, but even there 
tiffany, hung up by means of hooks and rings, and fastened in 
a like manner at the base, is better. These blinds may be 
replaced in winter by blanket ones, which will be of great 
advantage on exceptionally cold nights or in windy weather, 
for keeping the heat in. 

Heating. — This is a most important matter. Saddle-boilers 
are mostly used, and have the advantage of being very 
durable ; but they heat slowly, and it is necessary to burn a 
considerable quantity of fuel before the temperature of the 
house can be raised. Tubular boilers are really the best, 
although not so durable ; by their means heat can be got up 
much more quickly, and they are therefore much more useful, 
as in the case o" a warm spell, when artificial heat has been 
dispensed with, and there is a sudden change, and it is 
desired to get the heat up quickly. But if the temperature has 
once fallen low it must be raised gradually. 

If by mischance frost has been allowed to get into a house, 
it is best to syringe everything with cold water, keep the blinds 
down all day, and raise the temperature very slowly. By this 
means many plants may be saved. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



701 



When there are only three or four houses and frames one 
boiler will be sufficient, its size varying according to the area 
to be heated. In this case, when there are only one show 
house, two growing pits, and some frames, there should be 
separate flow and return pipes for each, the heat being regulated 
by means of valves. The boiler must be below the level of the 
houses, and have a feeding cistern a little higher than the 
highest pipes, which must always be kept full of water. In the 
growing pits the warm division will be at the end by which the 
pipes enter — next to the boiler; they will then pass on into the 
cool end, being regulated by valves in both, so that if desired the 
heat may be cut off from the cool end whilst it is still retained 
in the warm one. 

Four-inch pipes should be used, and plenty of them ; it is 
far better to have a gentle uniform heat from a number of 
pipes than a fierce, scorching heat from a few, which is very 
injurious, making it necessary to drive the fire much harder, use 
more fuel, and thus wear out the boiler quickly. The pipes 
should pass along under the stages all round the sides of the 
houses. It is also a good plan to carry two " flows " and " returns " 
along the roof to dry up excessive moisture and prevent drip,, 
and in the warm pit to have a couple along the top of the shelf 
next the outside wall. 

In summer no artificial heat will be required for any of the 
houses except in very damp or cold weather. 

Ventilation. — ^The art of giving the right amount of air at 
the right time can only be acquired after long experience. All 
the houses should be plentifully supplied with ventilators,, 
especially the greenhouse. This should have lights on hinges 
along each side of the house and along the whole length of the 
lantern on either side, and wooden ventilators under the shelves,, 
let in the brickwork on a level with the pipes, all opening from 
the inside. 

Plenty of air should be given on every occasion when it can 
be done without lowering the temperature unduly. Fresh air is 
life to plants, but when cold and damp it is injurious, and 
should be excluded. When a cold or strong wind is blowing 
only those ventilators on the opposite side from that which is 
exposed thereto should be opened. Bottom air can always be 
given by means of the ventilators in the brickwork, except when 
the thermometer stands below freezing-point or the wind is very 
cold. By this means the air of the house is kept fresh, whilst by 
passing over the pipes first it is warmed before reaching the plants. 

The same rules apply to the growing pits, except that not 
quite so much air should be given to many plants making 
growth as to those that have finished flowering or are in full 
blossom, and this shows the necessity of having a warm as well 
as a cool pit even in summer. Each pit should have ventilators 



702 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

at the top of the roof, and also at the sides between the roof 
and the ground. When the nights are cool, but the sun is strong 
and bright during the day, the temperature may be kept up by 
closing the ventilators early and storing the sun heat. 

In the frames air can be given by means of wooden blocks 
notched in stair fashion, so that the lights can be raised 
to various heights when it is not desired to remove them 
altogether. 

Water Tanks. — Every house should be provided with w^ater- 
tanks. These can be let in the ground on a level with the 
floor, and service water laid on. But they should also be made 
to collect all the rain-water from the roof, and this should be 
used in preference to any other. It is as well to have a couple 
of hot-water pipes running through the tanks, so that the water 
may be heat^ed to the same temperature as that of the house. 
Self-registering thermometers should be placed in every house, so 
that variations of temperature may be observed. 

Cultivation. — After describing the structures for growing the 
plants in it will be advisable to give a general outline of their 
cultivation, proceeding to fuller details later on. 

As greenhouse plants vary so much in their habit and growth, 
they require different methods of treatment and different com- 
posts for growing in, the various soils for making which should 
always be stacked for some time before using. 

Watering requires extreme care. It is almost impossible to 
tell anyone how to water properly, but the cultivator who takes 
a real interest in his plants will soon get to know the requirements 
of each individual, and will water it accordingly. On no account 
should a plant — except in special cases — be allowed to become 
dry. V ery often a plant will suffer so much damage from being 
dry for only one day that it will not recover during the rest of 
the year. Generally if the pot in which a plant is growing gives 
a hollow ring when tapped it may be said to be dry, but this 
is not always a true test, and one can only tell correctly after 
long experience. Again, care must be exercised not to over- 
water, as quite as much damage can be done in that way. The 
great art is to give a plant water just sufficient at the time when 
it is beginning to require it. 

All plants w^hen potted should have perfectly clean pots and 
good drainage. If this latter becomes blocked it must be 
renewed, otherwise the soil will become sour and the plant w^iil 
suffer. To prevent this, the drainage should be covered with 
some loose material, such as dry leaves or moss. 

Worms are sometimes a great trouble in this respect. They 
can often be got at by carefully knocking the plant out of the 
pot, taking care not to injure the roots or break the ball. If this 
cannot be done, watering with soot or clear lime-w^ater will 
kill them. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



When potting it is important that the compost should be in 
good condition — neither dry nor wet. It is a good test to take 
a handful, giving it a good squeeze ; then if it remains in a lump, 
which will yet readily break up when thrown down, it may be 
said to be fit for use. Sufficient room must be left between 
the surface of the soil and the rim of the pot to enable it to 
hold a good quantity of water. 

When plants have been potted on they should always be kept 
a little closer and warmer than they have previously been till 
they have recovered the check. Give the plants one good 
soaking and then allow them to go without water for a time, 
but not to become dry. If it is summer, and the foliage is 
inclined to flag, syringe gently overhead three or four times a 
day. 

Careful attention must be paid to the watering of freshly- 
potted plants, as numbers are often killed from over-watering. 
It must be borne in mind that the soil round a freshly-potted 
plant has no roots in it, and therefore nothing to absorb the 
moisture; and if this be kept wet it will become sour, so that 
when the plant begins to send fresh roots into it, instead of 
growing they will be poisoned and rot off. It will thus be seen 
that it is best to keep the plant rather on the dry side till its 
roots have got a good hold, and are capable of assimilating the 
moisture. 

All plants must be watered before potting, for if the ball is 
dry at that time it can never be got moist again by watering 
after potting. 

The gravel on which the plants stand and the floors of the 
houses should receive a slight sprinkling of water throughout 
the year, except when damp, close weather prevails, at least once a 
day in the cool pit and greenhouse, and oftener in the warm 
pit. In very hot weather during summer this should be repeated 
three or four times, at the same time syringing the plants over- 
head, giving those that are in blossom just a slight spra}^, and 
letting those that are not have the full benefit of the syrmge. 

Many people are afraid to syringe plants in blossom, saying 
that the flowers are thus caused to damp, or are discoloured. 
This is a great mistake, for if it is done whilst the air is dry, 
with full ventilation on the house and the blinds down, it is of 
the greatest benefit, enabling the flowers to last much longer. It 
must, however, be done carefully, in order to avoid bruising, 
and only perfectly clean water should be used. Watering should 
be done with a rose-can to avoid washing the soil out of the 
pots. The summer watering is best done in the afternoon after 
four o'clock, and in winter in the morning. 

Cleanliness is most important for the health of the plants. 
Always keep everything in, and every part of, the house clean, 
washing frequently leaves and pots, and continually removing dead 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



foliage or flowers, for these, if allowed to remain, form breeding- 
grounds for fungi, as well as looking unsightly. Also l)y con- 
tinually cleaning the house noxious insects are turned out of 
their lairs, whilst when the glass is kept clean the maximum 
amount of light is admitted. All these may seem trivial matters, 
but it is attention to such small details that makes the difference 
between good and bad cultivation. 

Never allow a plant to spoil for want of a stake. Many 
weak-stemmed or top-heavy plants require stakes, and in the 
case of those that throw up several flowering stems each should 
have a separate one, which looks better than when only one 
is placed in the centre. Use the stakes as thin as possible, 
provided they are sufficiently strong for the purpose. Bamboos 
painted green are best, being light, strong, and durable, and 
they can be obtained in all sizes. 

Arrangement is a matter requiring careful consideration. 
Never put two similar colours together. It is better to have 
batches of one species arranged in groups. The finest effects 
are obtained when two species of contrasting colours are mixed 
together, and fine foliage plants dotted in between, A splendid 
eff'ect may be obtained by mixing plants having tall loose spikes 
of flower amongst other dwarfer -growing kinds of a contrasting 
colour. 

Avoid overcrowding. A far better effect is always obtained by 
having a few good groups with plenty of room between the 
plants, so that their full beauty may be seen, than by having a 
lot huddled together, which is not good either for the plants or 
for the observer. 

Pests are a continual source of trouble to the cultivator 
of greenhouse plants. Greenfly, Red-spider, Thrips, Mealy-bug, 
and Scale are the chief enemies. For all these, except 
the last, fumigation with the XL All Vaporiser and Liquid 
is the best and safest remedy for any plant, whether in blossom 
or not, but is rather expensive. Tobacco-paper may also be used 
with good effect for the first-named, but many plants cannot 
stand it, especially if young and tender, whilst most flowers will 
suffer. Syringing or sponging with some insecticide is very effective, 
and is necessary for Scale, but these preparations must be used 
with care, especially in the case of young or rough-leaved plants. 
Small plants may be dipped in a solution of insecticide, but in 
any case they should all be washed clean an hour or so later with 
pure water. Perhaps the safest insecticide is Fir-tree Oil. The 
best of all consists of pure paraffin, soft-soap, and warm water, 
but should only be used by an experienced man. It has been 
said that " the man who can use paraffin properly in a garden 
IS a jewel." Dissolve from loz. to 20z. of soft-soap in igal. of 
water, adding lOz. of neat paraffin; then boil for half-an-hour. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



Use when slightly warm, and continually stir so as to keep it 
well mixed. The quantities vary, however, according to whether 
the plant is strong and hard-wooded, with smooth leaves, or is 
tender, with rough, hairy leaves. In any case, whatever 
insecticide is used, dipping is best for small plants, excepting in 
the case of Scale. First place the right hand over the top of 
the pot, having the stem between the middle fingers, then 
keeping the hand so, turn upside down and dip in solution 
(which should be in a wide-mouthed pail) until the plant is 
immersed almost as far as the soil in the pot ; keep the plants 
in the solution for one or tw^o minutes, and then place them 
on their sides for an hour, after which syringe with clean water, 
and replace. It is very important that none of the solution 
should be allowed to soak into the soil. Scale must be rubbed 
off wdth a sponge soaked in the insecticide. 

There are many other pests than those named above w^hich 
do damage, but there is not room in the present chapter to give 
a detailed account of them all. For fuller particulars, the reader 
is referred to the Chapter "On Pests Generally." 

Fungi also do a great deal of damage, amongst the worst 
being Mildew, and this more especially affects Chrysanthemums, 
Roses, and Cinerarias. It is mostly induced by damp and cold 
combined, and seizes on weak, unhealthy plants most readily. 
When it makes its appearance — generally in late summer and 
autumn — it is best to give a little heat, and at the same time 
plenty of ventilation. Syringing with potassium sulphide 
dissolved in water (loz. to 2 gallons) is a good remedy; while 
dusting with dry black sulphur also answers very well. 

The foregoing remarks give a brief idea of the cultivation of 
greenhouse plants and general management as far as space will 
permit. We will now proceed to give a selection of the most 
useful plants for decorative purposes, mentioning special details 
as to cultivation of the most difficult species. 

Greenhouse plants may be divided into five groups: (i) Soft- 
wooded, (2) Hard-wooded, (3) Tuberous-rooted and Bulbous 
Flowering Plants, (4) Foliage Plants, and (5) Ornamental 
Climbers. 

5oft= wooded Plants. 

Under this head may be classed all plants which have an 
herbaceous (soft and fleshy) stem and fibrous roots ; they may 
be either annual, biennial, or perennial, and include many of 
our most useful greenhouse subjects. They mostly require a rich, 
light compost of loam, leaf - soil, and silver - sand, with the 
addition of well-rotted stable manure or dry cow-dung, to be 
potted moderately firm, and when growing to receive continual 
shifts, so as not to suffer from want of root-room. They are very 
quick to suffer from want of water, and are generally easy to 



7o6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



propagate by either seeds or cuttings. Feeding may be practised 
to advantage with nearly all when a good size and in full growth ; 
this may be effected either by using some of the artificial 
manures (of which Clay's Fertiliser is very good) as a top-dressing, 
or dissolved in water, or by manure-water, obtained by placing 
cow-dung or other manure in water. 

Abutilon. — This is a most useful genus of plants, having 
large bell-shaped flowers beautifully veined and of various 

colours : orange, 
white, yellow, and 
red. Propagate 
by cuttings taken 
, in April, struck 
in the warm pit, 
and afterwards 
grown cool, pinch- 
ing once or twice. 
Young plants are 
best for pot work, 
and should be 
raised every year. 
Flowers all the 
summer. The 
best sorts are 
Boule- de- Neige, 
B o u 1 e d ' O r, 
Tancred, Golden 
Fleece, Sanglant, 
' insigne (A. ig- 
neum) (Fig. 455), 
and Scarlet Gem. 

A G A T H A 

ccELESTis is a 
beautiful little 
Cape plant, having 
blue flowers, and 
known as the Blue 
Marguerite, owing 
to their resemblance to that flower. It is readily raised from 
seed sown in March or from cuttings in June, and should be 
grown cool during winter. Flowers all the summer. Height 6in. 

Alonsoa linifolia and A. gracilis are useful for summer 
flowering, having bright scarlet flowers and graceful foliage. 
Raise from seed sown in March or by cuttings struck in autumn, 
and grow cool. Height from ift. to i^ft. 

Balsams {Iinpatiens hybrids). — These beautiful annuals, although 
largely used for outdoor work, are really greenhouse plants. 




Fig. 455. — Abutilon insigne. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



and are seen to the greatest advantage when grown as such. 
Those known as CamelHa-flowered, having large double flowers, 
should be grown ; they can easily be raised from seed sown in 
March, pricking out and potting on as required, giving frequent 
shifts so as not to allow them to become pot-bound, and finally 
flowering in Sin. pots. It is well to increase the richness of the 
soil at each shift. Successions may be obtained by making 
several sowings up to May, and thus plants may be had in 
blossom well into the autumn. Grow in a cool pit or frame. 
Height from i^ft. to 2ft. 

Calceolarias. — Many people find considerable difficulty in 
growing herbaceous Calceolarias successfully, and they certainly 
require careful treatment. Raise from seed sown (which is 
extremely fine and requires care in handling) in May or June. 
Sow on the surface of the soil, covering with sheets of glass. 
When the second leaf has ap- 
peared prick off", pot on singly 
when ready, and continue to 
shift as the plants grow, never 
allowing them to become the 
least pot-bound. Use a very 
light compost of loam, leaf-soil, 
and sand, adding dry cow-dung 
as they get big, Keep very 
cool and shady, having plenty of 
moisture about, but not on the 
leaves, with ventilation, excepting 
when the wind is very cold. 
Do not shift in winter. Grow in 
the cool pit or frame, giving 
only sufficient heat to keep out 
frost, or during very damp 
weather, continue to give as 
much air as possible, and in 
March shift into loin. pots for 
flowering. Calceolarias are very 
subject to the attacks of Green- 
fly, which get under the leaves, 
causing them to curl. As soon 
as this appears fumigate slightly 
two or three times a week, or 
else dust with tobacco-powder, 
using a puff distributor, which 
enables the under-sides of the 
leaves to be reached easily. The 

plants do not stand tobacco smoke well, so that this, if used at 
all, must only be very sUght. The great diversity of colour, and 
the varied markings of the blossoms, are very beautiful. Height 2 ft. 




Fig. 456. — Campanula persici- 
folia and c. p. grandiflora 

ALBA. 



7o8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Campanulas. — C. persicifolia grandifiora alba (Fig. 456), 
C pyramidalis (blue), and C. p. alba (white) are grand summer 
flowers for greenhouse decoration, the blossoms being borne on 
tall, straight spikes, a succession being kept up for a long time, 
especially when the dead ones are continually picked off. 
Although hardy perennials they are much better when grown in 
pots, and no greenhouse should be without them. C. pyramidalis 
and its var. alba reach a height of 4ft., making a splendid show 
when in a group in the centre bed. Propagate by division of 
the roots in spring. C. pyramidalis is, however, best treated as a 
biennial. Raise from seed sown in May, grow in fairly rich 
compost in the open during summer, and in frames during winter, 
only giving sufficient protection to keep away frost. Flower in 
Sin. pots. C. persicifolia is best flowered in 6in. pots, but it 
can also be grown three together in Sin. pots. C. f?'agilis 
is a small trailing plant, very useful for hanging-baskets. 
Light blue. Propagate by cuttings in May, and grow in a 
cool pit. 

Carnations and Picotees are useful for both summer- and 
winter-flowering. Carnations are divided into three groups : 
(i) Show, (2) Tree or Perpetuals, and (3) Malmaisons. 

(i) Shoiv Carnations. — These are again divided in Bizarres, 
Flakes, and Cloves or Selfs. They are propagated by layers ; 
this should be done in August, plunging the plants in 

large pots, and layer- 
ing all round the out- 
side. Pot the rooted 
layers in October in 
3in. pots, keeping in 
a cool frame during 
winter, and shift into 
6in. pots in March to 
flower. Sorts : Dr. 
Hogg, Rifleman, Har- 
mony, Mrs. Douglas 
(Fig. 457). James 
Douglas, Sportsman, 
and Rob Roy. 

(2) Tree Caj-nations 
are most valuable for 
w^inter blossoms. Pro- 
FiG. 457. — Carnation Mrs. Douglas. pagate by cuttings in 

slight bottom-heat in 
February, grow on in a frame at 'first, later on standing outside 
on a hard ash bottom ; pot into 6in. pots, and take inside in 
the cool pit in September, placing them in the warm pit to open 
the flowers in January and Februar}^ Sorts : Mrs. Leopold de 
Rothschild, Mrs. Moore, Mrs. Muir, Winter Cheer, and Uriah Pike. 




ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



(3) Malmaisons should be struck from side-growths in April 
or May, and a dung hot-bed in a frame is best for this purpose. 
Pot on and grow in the cool house to flower in March, April, 
and May. Sorts : These are all varieties obtained from the 
original Souvenir de la Malmaison — Nell Gwynne, Prime Minister, 
Princess May, and Trumpeter. 

Picotees are summer flowerers, and only differ from Show 
Carnations in having a pure w^hite or yellow ground to their 
flowers, with coloured edges. They have not quite so robust an 
appearance, but are quite as free blossoming. They require the 
same culture as Show Carnations. 

The compost for all should be fibrous loam, sand, and broken 
lime rubble. Carnations are very subject to a fungus, and it has 
been found best to grow them on the dry side as much as 
possible during winter to prevent this. Spraying with Bordeaux 
Mixture is also a good preventive. Directly the fungus appears 
on any of the leaves they should be removed and burnt. 

Celosia cristata (Cockscomb) is w^ell w^orth cultivating for its 
curious heads of flow^er, having a very marked resemblance to 
the comb of a cock ; hence the popular name. Raise from 
seed sown in February or March, prick off" into pans, and pot 
on frequently to prevent them from becoming pot-bound ; use 
a very light and rich compost, pot lightly, and grow in the 
warm pit, to flower in July and August. Height gin. To obtain 
very dwarf plants, from 3in. to 4in., keep growing freely for a 
little w^hile in the warm pit, then suddenly check by removing 
to the cool pit, and keep almost dry. As soon as the combs 
appear, start growing again in the warm pit, and feed with 
manure-water. Another plan is to cut off the tops of the young 
plants a little below the comb as it is developing, rooting as a 
cutting in strong bottom-heat, and afterwards potting in 4^in. or 
6in. pots. Dw^arf varieties may also be obtained from seed. 
Colours : deep crimson, rose, gold, and white. C. pyramidalis 
is a very handsome plant, having long plume-like spikes of 
various colours (culture as for C. cristata). 

Celsia cretica (3ft.) is a biennial well suited for the centre 
bed. It has tall spikes of yellow flowers. C. ArctiLrics (2ft.), 
also yellow, is a perennial, but is best treated as a biennial \ 
it has shorter spikes and smaller flowers, being suitable for the 
shelves of the greenhouse. Sow in April in the warm pit, grow 
outside in the summer, and protect in a cool frame during 
winter. Flower C. cretica in Sin. pots, and C. Arcturus in 6in. 
pots. Flowering period, May and June. 

Chrysanthemums. — The varieties of C. sinense (Fig. 458) 
form one of the most popular and important groups of plants 
grown for the greenhouse. With their aid a show of blossom 
may be had from early autumn till after Christmas — just at the 



710 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



season when it is most difficult to obtain other plants in flower. 
For this reason it is advisable to grow a good number, in- 
cluding a variety of sorts, having early, medium, and late 
blossomers. Excepting when grown for exhibition, their culture 
is very simple. The large-flowered sorts are best struck in 
December by cuttings of shoots taken from the base of old 
plants; but the small-flowered Pompones (Fig. 459) may be left 
till February. Strike on a hot-bed in a frame, pot into 3in. 
pots, then shift to 6in., 8in., and finally in June to loin. pots 

to flower. The plants are very 
gross feeders, requiring a rich 
compost, which should be in- 
creased in richness at each shift. 
It should consist of three parts 




good fibrous loam and one of 



leaf-soil and well-rotted manure 
to start with, and as the plants 
are shifted the proportion of 
manure may be slightly increased 
at the expense of the leaf-soil, 
and in the last two shifts soot 
and bone-meal, at the rate of a 
3^in. pot full of the first and a 
5in. of the latter to one bushel 
of compost. Pot very firmly, 
being careful to leave plenty of 
room between the surface of the 
soil and the rim of the pot for 
water. Water must be given fre- 
quently, never allowing the plants 
to flag, and after the last two 
shifts, when they have become 
established, water with manure- 
water every alternate day. All 
the shoots must be stopped after 
each of the first three shifts, if 
compact bushes are desired ; but 
if tall plants with only three or 
four stems are wanted, only stop 
once when in 6in. pots. Stand 
out on a hard ash bottom all the 
summer, and as soon as the weather begins to get cold — but 
before frost comes — move the early sorts inside, keeping them 
as cool as possible. The late ones should be kept outside as 
long as possible, and for this purpose a skeleton house, consisting 
simply of a frame work, fitted with blinds, and having canvas hung 
round the sides, is advantageous, as by this means protection can 
be given at night, the plants being held in check for a long time. 



Fig. 458. — Chrysanthemum 
siNENSEi Variety. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



711 



E. C. Jukes, and James 



The following are some of the most useful sorts, but the 
number of them is so great that a large catalogue could be 
made, every one mentioned being good : 

Japa?iese Incurved: Ami Hoste, Baron Hirsch, Empress of 
India, Mrs. S. Coleman, Lord Alcester, and Queen of England. 

Japanese Re flexed : Avalanche, Beauty of Exmouth, Etoile de 
Lyon, W. H. Lincoln, and Viviand Morel. Hairy varieties, Mrs. 
Ward and Hairy Wonder. 

Japaiiese Anemones: Bacchus, 
Weston. 

Large Anemones : Descartes, 
Acquisition, Georges Sand, and 
Thorpe, jun. 

Anemone Pompo7ies : Calliope, 
Firefly, and Marie Stuart. 

Po7npones : Black Douglas, 
Croesus, La Purite, and Rubra 
Perfecta. 

Singles: Gus Harris, Jane, 
Mary Anderson, Terra Cotta, 
and Yellow Jane. 

Early Floivering : Mme. C. 
Desgrange, G. Wermig, Sou- 
venir d'un Ami, St. Croux, and 
Jardin des Plantes. These may 
be had in blossom in August. 

C. friitescens is the well- 
known Marguerite, or Paris 
Daisy, so useful for decoration 
in the greenhouse. There are 
now some very good varieties, 
amongst which mention may 
be made of Feu d'Or, Reve 
d'Or, and Golden Gem (yellow). 
Chieftain (pale yellow, dark 
purple centre), Duke of York 

(deep gold and very dwarf), Halleri, and Elegans (white). Cuttings 
may be rooted in a cool frame, and are best taken at three or four 
intervals, from July to the end of September : thus a succession 
of vigorous young plants are obtained. Grow in cool pit, potting 
on as required in loam with a little leaf-soil and sand added, 
and flower in 6in. pots, feeding occasionally with artificial, or 
else watering twice a week with liquid, manure, after having 
become pot-bound. 

Attention must be paid to disbudding all the above, removing 
all but one on each shoot. 




Fig. 459. — Chrysanthemum sinense, 
PoMPONE Variety. 



712 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



plants 
bring 

sandy 
place 
seed- 



CiNERARiAS. — These are showy and extremely useful 
(Fig. 460), but, like Calceolarias, are rather difficult to 
to perfection. Sow seed in pans filled with very light 
soil, in May for winter, and in July for spring-flowering ; 
in a cool frame, shading well and keeping close till the 
lings are well up. Pot singly into 3in. pots, keeping in the 
frame, giving plenty of room, and continue to shift as required. 
In the middle of September remove to the cool pit, transferring 

to the warm pit for 
a few days when 
the flowers begin to 
open. Great care 
must always be ex- 
ercised with regard 
to shade, but as the 
plants get big this 
c a n gradually b e 
lessened. Keep the 
plants themselves 
and the ground 
they stand on moist. 
In hot weather a 
gentle spraying with 
the syringe is ad- 




vantageous 
and 



During 
and 
growth 



mornmg 
e n i n g . 



e V 

the primary 
late periods of 
great care 
should be exercised 
when watering, it 
being most im- 
portant at these 
periods that no 
water should be 
allowed to settle on 
the leaves ; thus 
these should be 
raised sufficient to 
permit the passage 

of the can's spout beneath them, and as they are very brittle this 
requires to be done as gently as possible. Use a light compost 
of fibrous loam, leaf-soil, and sand, and also feed with liquid 
manure when the plants are big, but not after the blossoms have 
begun to show. Cinerarias may also be raised from offsets, 
obtained by cutting off the flower-heads as soon as they have 
begun to fade, and top-dressing with light soil a week or two 
after. When large enough, the off-sets may be removed with 



Fig. 460. — Single-flowered Cineraria. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



some roots attached, and potted in 3in. pots. Flower in Sin. 
pots. Green-fly is very troublesome, but can be kept under by 
frequent slight fumigations. The plants are also subject to the 
attacks of Red-spider, but only when sufficient moisture has not 
been kept about in hot, dry weather. C. criienta (Fig. 461) .is 
one of the original parents. It is much more robust than the 
garden hybrids, having tall, loose, and graceful panicles of flowers. 
A new race has recently been evolved by crossing this with the 
old hybrids. These are known as C. hewensis ; they have much 

the same habit as 
cruenta, but larger 
flowers, are very 
effective, and have 
a strong constitu- 
tion. The colours 
of all the above are 
very varied and 
brilliant. 

Cosmos bipin- 
NATUS is an annual 
which although 
often grown out of 
doors is worthy of 
a place in the 
greenhouse. Sow 
seed in March and 
grow on, flowering 
in Sin. pots in July 
and August. For 
soil use loam, leaf- 
soil, and sand. The flowers' 
somewhat resemble a single 
Dahlia, and are of various 
colours. Height 3ft. 

CuPHEA IGNEA is a pretty, 
compact little plant, with 
scarlet and black tubular 
flowers. Propagate by 
cuttings struck in warmth 
a cool pit to flower in 




Fig. 461.— Cineraria cruexta. 



m 



in February or March, and grow 
summer. Height ift. 

Daturas. — The perennial species of these make handsome 
specimen plants for the centre bed, forming large bushes with 
tubular hanging flowers. They are very easily rooted from 
cuttings placed in a little bottom-heat, afterwards being grown on 
for a time in the warm pit to make large plants. When these 
have been formed, the young shoots should be cut back every 
autumn to within three or four eyes ; they will break readily in 



714 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



early spring, flowering in May. In summer it will be advan- 
tageous to thin out the young growths, which are very luxuriant. 
Grow in good loam and sand, and feed well. D. Knightii, 
D. meteloides (Fig. 462), D. sanguinea, and D. suaveolens are the 
best species. The first has large double white flowers, 3in. 

long, very strongly 
scented. The 
second is white, 
the third scarlet, 
and the fourth 
white; flowers 
single. The 
heights vary ac- 
cording to con- 
ditions, but from 
loft. to 15ft. is 
easily attained in 
an ordinary green- 
house. 

The annual 
species and their 
double forms may 
be raised from 
seed sown in 
March in a cool 
frame ; they make 
very useful plants 
for .the shelves 
when grown in 
6in. pots. The 
most suitable 
are D. cornucopia, 
D. fasftwsa, and 
JD. chloranthe. 
D. cornucopia, 
double white 
flowers, marbled 
purple, and beau- 
tifully scented ; 
D. fastuosa, white 

and purple flowers ; and B. chloranthe is yellow, with scented 
trumpet-shaped flowers. Heights of all from i8in. to 2ft. 

DiPLACUS. — The hybrids of D. glutinosus make very pretty pot- 
plants. Propagate by cuttings in early spring, and grow in the 
cool pit in loam, leaf-soil, and sand, giving plenty of moisture. 
The blossoms greatly resemble Mimulus (Musk), to which they 
are allied, and vary in shades of red and yellow. 




Fig. 462. — Datura meteloides. 



2ift 



Height 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



EuPATORiUM. — E. odoratum and E, riparhim are most useful 
plants, lasting in flower during the whole summer. The first is 
tall, and suitable for the centre bed, the second is dwarf 
and useful for the shelves. Grow in the cool pit in loam, leaf- 
soil, and sand. E. ianthimim is dwarf and shrubby, and 
requires to be grown in the warm pit in loam, peat, and sand. 
Propagate by division in spring or by cuttings struck in the 
warm pit in February and March. E. odoratum has pale pink 
and E. riparium white flowers, which are small, being borne 
on longish stems in good-sized panicles. Height 2^ft. to 3ft. 
E. ianthinum is blue, and greatly resembles an Ageratum. 

Heliotropes are valuable as greenhouse plants for their 
beautiful fragrance, and also for the colours of their flowers ; 
they can be grown either as trailing plants in 6in. pots, in 
hanging-baskets, or as large plants in Sin. and loin. pots, as 
standards or trained on balloons. Propagate by cuttings in the 
warm pit in autumn, and grow in loam, leaf-soil, rotted manure, 
and sand- Stop two or three times, unless required as standards, 
when they should not be stopped, but have all the side-shoots 
pinched out till the required height has been reached. The best 
varieties are Miss Nightingale, Roi des Noirs, White Lady, and 
Princess de Sagan. 

Humea elegans is a biennial, and has a most striking effect, 
with its graceful pendulous racemes of red flowers on stems 
4ft. high ; it also has a delightful scent. Raise from seed 
sown in February in the warm pit. Grow on and place in the 
cool frame in summer, giving frequent shifts. Remove into the cool 
pit for the winter, and give a final shift into loin. pots in March. 
Grow in a light soil composed of loam, leaf-soil, and sand. Give 
particular attention to watering, it being most important not to 
overdo it. The slightest mistake in this respect will prove fatal, 
therefore it is better to keep rather on the dry side. 

Pelargoniums. — There are four classes of these: (i) Show, 
(2) Zonal, (3) Ivy-leaved, and (4) Sweet-scented. All are so well 
known that it is unnecessary to emphasise their value. 

(i) Show Pelargoniums blossom in spring and early summer. 
Propagate by cuttings obtained from old cut-back plants in 
August, and strike in the warm pit. They are best placed two 
together in a 3in. pot, using plenty of sand. Afterwards grow in 
the cool pit in rich loam, leaf-soil, and silver-sand, adding rotten 
dung or artificial manure. Grow as cool as possible, and feed 
well in spring and summer. After blossoming place them out- 
doors in full sun to ripen off", giving a little water at first, and 
gradually withholding it altogether. After thoroughly drying for 
about a fortnight, cut back and syringe overhead, when they 
will begin to break. During this time, and also whilst drying, 
they should be laid on their sides if the weather is wet. After 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the shoots are about lin. long, turn out of the pots, shake 
all the old soil away, and repot, into small pots at first, then 
gradually pot on as required, growing in the cool pit. There 
are many excellent varieties which may be seen described in any 
florist's catalogue, but the following may be mentioned : Fortitude, 
Hector, Illuminator, Magician, Delicatum, Indian Chief, Vivandiere, 
Goldmine, Edward Perkins, Venus, and Volante Nationale. 

(2) Zonal Pelargoniums 
are always valuable for 
winter blossoms, but to 
obtain plants for that 
purpose they require 
special treatment. Take 
cuttings early in autumn ; 

after they are 
rooted pot singly 
into 3in. pots, 
and keep through 
the winter in the 
cool pit, placing 
them near the 
glass. In the 
spring shift into 4in. pots, 
and later into 6in. pots, 
stopping several times to 
make the plants a good 
shape. Continually nip 
off all the blossom trusses 
directly they appear up 
till the middle of Sep- 
tember. Grow in the 
open during summer, 
shifting into the cool pit 
in September, and after- 
wards placing them in 
the warm, pit to open the 
blossoms. Use a rich 
compost, and also feed 
well when, after the last 
shift, the pots have be- 
come full of roots ; by this means a better supply of blossom is 
obtained than by potting into large pots. Among the best sorts 
for winter flowering are — Singles : Flamingo, Lord Rosebery, Henry 
Jacoby, Blue Peter, Meteor, Mrs. Daniels, Beauty of Kent, and 
Albion. Doubles : Raspail Improved, Aglaiae, Nydia, and Swanley 
Double White. 

(3) Ivy-leaved Pelargoniums are good either for hanging 
baskets or for pots when trained on stakes. For winter blossom 




Fig. 463. — Pelargonium inquinans. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



717 



take cuttings in early summer and grow like Zonals. They are 
also useful for training over pillars or on the roof of the 
greenhouse ; when so utilised they should be cut back at the 
end of every year. Sorts : Souvenir de Charles Turner, Madame 
Crousse, Jeanne d'Arc, Abel Carriere, and Albert Crousse. 

(4) Sweet-scented Leaved Pelargoniums. — These are grown chiefly 
for the delightful scent of their leaves, but they also flower freely. 
They are best treated as large trained plants, and flower during 
the summer. Cut back, shake out old soil, and repot in autumn, 
and then grow same as the show varieties. Sorts : P. querci folium 
(Oak-leaved), P. odoratissimum lobatum, P. denticulatum Shotten- 
ham Pet, and P. capitatum. 

With regard to these 
plants, it is very interesting 
to note the insignificance 
of their first parents, and 
how they have been 
evolved and gradually 
improved during compara- 
tively recent years, until 
their present state of per- 
fection has been reached. 
They admirably illustrate 
the progress of the gar- 
dener's art, showing what 
can be done by hybrid- 
isation, cross-fertilisation, 
care, patience, perse- 
verance, and intelligent 
selection. 

The Zonals of to-day 
were obtained originally 
from the small and insig- 
nificant P. inquinans 
463), which is really a 
shrub with scarlet flowers, 
and the species P. zonale 
(Fig. 464), also scarlet. The Ivy-leaved section were obtained 
from P. peltatum (with tuberous roots, and, as the name implies, 
peltate leaves) and Zonal varieties, thus obtaining the leaf and 
habit of the one and the flowers of the other; while the beau- 
tiful Show varieties were obtained from P. grandiflorum^ a 
shrubby species with red and white flowers. 

Petunias. — The double varieties of these (Fig. 465) are fine 
and effective, and can be propagated by either seed or cuttings. 
Sow seed in the warm pit in March, and grow in the cool pit or 
in a frame in light sandy loam. Save only the smallest seed- 
lings, as they produce the best double flowers. Strike cuttings 




Fig. 464. — Pelargonium zonale. 



7i8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



in warmth in late autumn, and grow warm during winter. The 
shape of the blossoms, especially of the fringed varieties, is 
exquisite, and the varia- 
tion of colour very bril- 
liant and beautiful. Height 
lift, to 2ft. 

PicoTEES. — See Carna- 
tions and Picotees. 



Primulas. — There are 
many species of these 
beautiful plants suitable 
for the greenhouse, the 
single and double forms 
of P. sinensis (Fig. 466) 
being most grown. The 
singles can be raised 
from seed sown in spring 
for winter, and in autumn 
for spring blossoming. 
Sow in the warm pit and 
grow the latter in the same, but 
should be grown in a frame during 





Fig. 466. — Primula sinensis. 

and give weak liquid manure once 
summer. Double Primulas are very 



Pig. 465. — Double Garden Petunia. 



those for winter-flowering 
summer. The doubles are 
best propa - 
gated by using 
cocoa-nut fibre 
and sand mixed 
in equal quan- 
titles, and 
banking up 
round the old 
plants in March 
or April, when 
they are going 
off blossom. 
By that time 
several crowns 
will have been 
formed, wiiich 
will root into 
the mixture. 
Grow in loam, 
peat, and sand 
inthe warm pit. 
Be careful not 
to over water, 
or twice a week during 
liable to damp off during 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



719 



winter, and any decay must be removed directly it appears. 
They are very useful for winter blossom. The colours range 
from white, pale pink, rose, and crimson, to blue. Height 
Sin. 

P. obconica, P. corhesoides, P. fiorihunda, P. verticillaia^ 
and P. japonica are fine species for spring flowering. They 
may all be grown in the cool pit during winter, and in frames 
during summer. Raise from seed sown in spring, or from 
divisions in the summer after flowering, P. obconica is poisonous 
to some people, causing a painful rash wherever it touches, and, 
therefore, it requires careful handling. The blossoms of 
P. obconica are white, pale blue, and rose ; P. cortusoides, varies ; 
P. floribunda and P. verficillata, yellow ; and P. japonica, 
varies. Height 6in. 

Reinwardtia {Liniim) trigynum is a very pretty perennial, 
having bright yellow flowers. Propagate by cuttings of the strongest 
points of the old plants in April or May ; strike in the warm 
pit, and grow in a frame during summer, giving plenty of sun. 
Pinch several times, and grow in loam, peat, and sand. Remove 
to the cool pit in autumn, and place in the warm pit to open 
the flowers in winter. Height 2ft. 

RiviNA HUMiLis is a most interesting plant, on account of its 
bearing racemes of beautiful red berries, resembling currants, but 
the flowers are of no account. Propagate either by seeds sown 
in February or by cuttings taken in summer and struck in the 
warm pit. Grow in the warm pit in loam, leaf-soil, and sand, and 
pot on till Sin. pots are reached. Grow as standards, having a 
stem 2\h. long, and pinch off all laterals. The plants require 
staking, and the shoots forming the head to be trained. 

Salvias.- — There are many species of these very useful for the 
greenhouse, blossoming in autumn and winter. Propagate by 
division in spring or by cuttings either in autumn or in spring. 
Strike in gentle bottom-heat, growing in the cool pit, and out- 
side in summer up till late autumn, when take them in, and 
place in the warm pit to open the flowers. After flowering, cut 
the plants back, keep in a cool frame, and start again in spring. 
Grow in light, rich soil, and flower in loin. pots. Sorts : 
S. cocci?iea, S. fidgejis, S. rutilans^ S. splendejis^ S. purpurea^ and 
xS. involucrata. S. coccinea, S. fnlgeris, S. rtUilans, and 6'. splendens 
have scarlet, S. purpurea purple, and 6'. involucrata red blossoms, 
which are borne on long spikes ; they are labiate or lipped, 
resembling in shape the Dead Nettle, and are very effective. 
Height 2kt. 

ScHiZANTHUS piNNATUS is a bcautiful annual, and may be had 
in flower all through the summer and well into the autumn by 
sowing in succession from March. Seeds sown in autumn will 



720 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



also furnish flowers in early spring. Grow in the cool pit or 
frame in rich fibrous loam and sand. Those that are to be 
grown through the winter should be kept in small pots and have 
a place near the glass, potting them before coming into blossom 
in spring. The blossoms, which are purple and white, having 
fringed petals, make a most pleasing effect resembling a purple 
ground covered with white muslin. Height 2ft. 

Sparmannia africana (Fig. 467) makes a fine specimen plant, 
suitable either for large pots or for planting out. Propagate by 
cuttings of young shoots in spring, and grow on, stopping 



Sorts : S. anisophyllus, S. isophyUus^ and S. Wallichii. Blossoms 
blue. Height 2ft. 

Trachelium cceruleum makes a handsome pot-plant for 
autumn flowering, having loose feathery panicles of blue flowers. 
Propagate by seeds sown in warmth in March, and by cuttings 
in autumn, and grow in loam, leaf-soil, and sand in a cool frame. 

Hard = wooded Flowering Plants. 

Under this heading are included those plants which have hard 
woody stems, and do not die down after having com.pleted a 
season's growth, but form shrubs. Many are most useful and 




several times to form good 
plants. Use rich loam and 
sand, and feed in summer 
with liquid or artificial 
manure. Blossoms white, with 
yellow centre, small, borne 
in clusters. The foliage is 
also very elegant. Height 
varies, according to condi- 
tions, from 4ft. to 10ft. 



Statice. — There are sev- 
eral species of this genus 
suitable for the greenhouse, 
having either white or purple 
flowers. Propagate by divi- 
sion or seeds in early spring, 
and grow in the cool pit. 
For soil use loam, peat, and 
sand. Sorts : S. Halfordii, 
S. imbj^icata^ and S. pi'ofusa. 



Fig. 467. — Sparmannia africana. 



Strobilanthes are peren- 
nials useful for summer 
flowering. Propagate by cut- 
tings in summer in bottom, 
heat, and grow in the warm 
pit in loam, peat, and sand. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



721 



ornamental, especially during the early spring, but many others 
are also rather difficult to grow, and more especially to propagate, 
requiring expert cultivation and special accommodation. This is 
very marked in the case of Azaleas and Heaths. When such is 
the case it is the best plan for the cultivator who has neither 
the means nor the time to spend over them to purchase well- 
established plants from people who make a speciality of their 
cultivation, for although young plants are difficult to raise, an 
established specimen may be grown successfully for many years 
with proper care and attention. 

These shrubs are either deciduous or evergreen. The deciduous 
kinds require to be pruned after the leaves have fallen in most 
cases, and it is generally necessary to pinch and thin out the 
young shoots whilst growing. The evergreen kinds require to be 
pruned just after the flowering period. This usually consists 
simply in shortening back long growths and thinning the weak 
and very sappy wood ; careful note should be taken of this, for 
weak shoots, if left, will not flower, but only hinder the develop- 
ment of stronger growths, whilst coarse, sappy growths will run 
away, taking the nourishment from the rest of the plant. Only 
firm and well-ripened shoots should be allowed to remain. 

All hard-wooded plants have distinct resting and growing 
periods, during which they require either very little or an 
abundant supply of water. It is through not paying enough 
attention to these facts that many are ruined. With a few 
exceptions they must not be dried ofl": even when at rest, 
although very little water is required, the soil should be kept 
moist. 

When potting, the soil should be rammed firmly, leaving at 
least half an inch for water on the top. Also give special 
attention to drainage, for after a plant has reached the flowering 
size it will not require shifting oftener than once a year, and 
large specimens in pots or tubs are seldom shifted at all, but 
have to be content with a top-dressing of fresh soil. When 
this is done it is necessary to remove as much of the surface- 
soil as possible without injury to the roots, and excepting in 
the case of those requiring peat, it is best to use richer soil 
for this purpose than in the case of plants that are repotted. 
After either repotting or top-dressing sprinkle the soil with clean 
silver-sand, which will help to keep the surface clean. 

During the growing period a good syringing overhead on all 
bright days is beneficial, and also helps to keep down insects. 
In the case of evergreens, when the resting period occurs in 
summer, this should also be done morning and evening. All 
hard-wooded plants like plenty of ventilation, excepting in sonie 
cases just at the time when fresh growth is being made. 

]\Iany kinds that are difficult to root from cuttings may be 
successfully layered, and this should be done in small pots. 

3 



722 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Many are also grafted on stocks of the same or an allied 
genus, e.g., Azaleas and Rhododendrons. 

Never on any account allow plants that are potted in peat 
to become dry, for if this happens no amount of watering will 
ever get the soil into a proper state again. The best plan in 
such cases is to immerse the plant in water for several hours. 

Insect pests, although quite as troublesome, are more easily 
c^ot rid of than in the case of soft-wooded plants, as the hard- 

wooded species 
are better able to 
w i t h s tand the 
effects of either 
fumigation or in- 
secticides, except- 
ing whilst young 
growth is being 
made. 

During the 
period of ripening 
their wood these 
plants should have 
plenty of air and 
sunshine, only 
shading on the 
very hottest days, 
when the foliage 
is liable to be 
scorched; and 
many kinds are 
best stood outside 
altogether in the 
full sun. In nearly 
all cases repotting 
is best done just 
at the time when 
the plants are 
starting into 
growth after hav- 
ing been at rest, 
and it is generally 
advisable not to 
give big shifts, 
but to use pots 
only one size 
larger. When this 

is done, care must be exercised in removing the drainage and 
reducing the old ball so as to avoid injury to the roots. Also, 
in potting, all the space round the old ball must be filled in. 




Si: 



Fig. 468. — Abelia spathulata. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 723 

Very often ^vhen this operation is carelessly performed spaces 
are left. To avoid this a thin piece of wood that can be pushed 
down between the ball and the outside of the pot should be used. 

In propagating from cuttings many are best rooted in the cool 
pit, and when this is done they should be placed either in a 
proper propagating-frame or under bell-glasses. The heights vary 
considerably, where not otherwise stated, when grown under 
various conditions, /.f., planted out, or in large or small pots. 

Abelias. — These are pretty shrubs, having pink and white 
fiow^ers ; they are best grown in the cool pit during winter and 
outside during summer, 
summer or spring. 
Sorts : A. floribinida 
and A. spathiilata 
(Fig. 468), flowering 
in spring, and A. 
j'upestris and A. tri- 
Hora in autumn. 

Acacias. — These v^! 
are without doubt v ^ 
among the most use- \ 
ful classes of plants v 
for the greenhouse, \ 
and yet are very 
seldom met with. 
They blossom during / 
early spring, bearing y 
small yellow flowers, 
which in some species 
are sweet - scented, 
whilst the foliage of 
many is also very 
graceful. Propagate 
by cuttings of young 
firm shoots in August 
in bottom - heat ; they can also be raised from seed sown in 
February or March, previously soaking in warm water. Grow in 
loam, leaf-soil, and sand, stand outside during summer, and give 
plenty of water. Many will make large specimens, and can be 
planted out. ]Most of the species come from Australia, being 
known as Mimosa, or Wattles. The best are A. argy'rophylla^ 
A. armata, A. cochlearis (sweet-scented), A. dealbata, A. falcata, 
A. loiigifolia floribunda, A. pulchella gra?idis, A. Riceaiia 
(Fig. 469), and A. z'eriiciUata. All the above have yellow blossoms. 

AcROPHYLLu:^! vENOSUAi is a small shrub, with pink and white 
flowers. Propagate by cuttings in July in the warm pit, and 
grow in peat and sand in the cool pit. Flowers in May and June. 

3 A 2 




724 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Adenandras are dwarf plants from the Cape, and are very 
showy. Propagate by cuttings taken from the young tops, and 
root in the cool pit. Grow in peat, sand, and loam. Cut back 
and keep warm after flowering for a time. Flowering period. May 
and June. Sorts : A. fragrans and A. njubellatus speciosa. 
Blossoms pink. 

AoTUS. — A genus of extremely pretty little plants, which are 
easily propagated by cuttings of partially ripened wood in April or 
May in the cool pit. Grow in light sandy loam with a little peat 
added. A. grac'illima has a procumbent habit, and is suited for 
hanging-baskets, the long, slender shoots, covered with red and 
yellow flowers, being very effective. A. villosa has a more erect 
habit and yellow flowers. Flowering period, April and May. 
The blossoms are pea-shaped, and very much resemble those of 
Genista. 



Azaleas 
great care. 



are well-known and justly-prized plants, but require 
They are now botanically classed as Rhododendrons, 

but as they are best 



known 




bv their old 
name it is 
kept up 
here. 

A. iiidica 
(Fig. 470) is 
the chief 
parent of 
the ever- 
green hy- 
brids. These 
present con- 
s i d e r able 
difficulty in their pro- 
pagation, which can be 
effected either by cut- 
tings of the young tops 
struck in a mixture of 
half sand and peat, or, 
which is the better way, 
by grafting on seedlings 
or cuttings of A. i. alba, 
or some other strong- 
growing variety. This 
method is employed 
on the Continent, where so many are raised. It should be done in 
early spring, and the grafted plants placed in a close frame with 
gentle heat. Grow in peat and sand, with the addition of a little 
loam. After flowering, and whilst they are growing, keep warm 




Fig. 470. 



-Azalea indica. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



and syringe freely. As they begin to complete their growth, 
gradually give more air and sunlight, finally, during August and 
September, placing outside in the full sun and continuing to 
syringe. Keep in the cool pit during winter, removing to a warm 
one to open the flowers. Water may be given freely during hot, dry 
weather in summer, but must be administered with care at other 
times, especially during winter. The plants may be had in flower 
from March to June, 
but if wanted earlier 
forcing will be necessary. 

A. Mollis and its 
hybrids are also very 
useful for early spring; 
they are quite hardy, 
but are at their best 
when cultivated in pots 
for the greenhouse. 
Grow outside in sand 
and peat during sum- 
mer and winter, re- 
moving to the cool pit 
in February, but give 
protection during very 
severe weather. Pro- 
pagate by layers in 
spring after flowering. 

Banksias are an in- 
teresting and peculiar 
group of plants, seldom 
met with now, chiefly 
on account of their 
slow growth, but they 
were largely grovrn at 
one time. They bear 
handsome flowers, 
which produce rather 
quaint cones, and the 
foliage is also orna- 
mental. Banksias do 

not strike well, and are best raised from seed sown in spring in 
the warm pit. They can also be layered, which should be done 
about ]May. Grow in loam and sand. They make fine specimen 
plants, and do not like frequent potting. Sorts : B. Batten', 
red ; B. atfemiata, yellow ; B. erkifolia, yellow ; B. coccifiea, 
scarlet ; and B. grandis, yellow. 




Fig. 471. — BoRoxiA megastigma. 



BOROXIAS 

purple, and 



are most beautiful little plants, bearing pink, 
white flowers. Some of the species have a most 



726 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

pleasant and very powerful perfume, two or three being sufficient 
to scent the whole house. Grow in peat, loam, and sand. 
After flowering, cut back the tops of all the shoots, and place 
in the cool pit. Propagate by cuttings of the young, half- 
ripened shoots in June, strike in the cool pit or with very slight 
bottom-heat, grow in the cool pit during summer and winter, 
and place in the warm pit in early spring. Flowering period, 
May and June. Sorts : B. inegastignia (very sweet scented) 
(Fig. 471)5 B. pitmata^ B. serrulata (scented), B. fetrafidra, and 
B. heterophylla. 

BouvARDiAS are very useful and well-known plants for autumn 
and early winter blossoms. Propagate by cuttings taken from old 




Fig. 472. — BouvARDiA Alfred Neuner. 



cut-back plants in March ; pot on as they grow till July, pinching 
back several times, and growing in the warm pit ; then transfer 
to a cool frame, giving plenty of light and air ; bring into the 
cool pit in September, placing in the warm pit as the flowers 
begin to open. They may also be grown successfully from 
cuttings planted out in frames during the summer, and potted up 
in the autumn. After flowering dry off, and cut back before 
starting again in February ; only syringe overhead at first till 
they have well broken, then shake out the old soil and repot. 
Soil : Light, fibrous loam, leaf-soil, sand, with rotten manure or 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



727 



bone-meal. The plants also benefit by a little manure-water 
when in the flowering pots. Sorts: Alfred Neuner (Fig. 472), 
Dazzler, Elegans, Hogarth, Hogaith flore-pleno, President Cleve- 
land, Priory Beauty, Humboldtii Corymbiflora, Vreelandi, and 
Vulcan. 

BuRTONiAS are small shrubs resembling Heaths, and having 
bright-coloured flowers. Propagate by cuttings of the young 
shoots in June. Soil : peat, loam, sand, and charcoal. Flower- 
ing period, June 



and July. 

B. scabra 
villosa. 



Sorts : 
and B. 



Camellias 



amongst 




are 
the most 
ornamental and use- 
ful plants that we 
have for the green- 
house, and they can 
be grown either as 
moderate-sized plants 
or as large speci- 
mens. The flowers 
are either double or 
single, but the first 
are the better known. 
Grow in peat and 
sand, with the addi- 
tion of a little loam ; 
after flowering, keep 
warm whilst growth 
is being made, and 
use the syringe libe- 
rally. Place outside 
towards the end of 
summer to ripen. 
Keep cool during 
winter, and be very 
careful with water 
at this period, not 

allowing the plants to become either dry or very wet ; care- 
lessness in this respect will cause the buds to drop. Also 
keep a moist atmosphere, and it is best to disbud just before 
the flower-buds begin to swell. Propagate singles by cuttings 
of the young wood in June and July, in a cool frame. The 
doubles are best grafted or inarched on these ; graft at any 
time during winter in the warm pit, and continue to grow in the 
same for a time after union has taken place. Inarching should 



Fig. 473. — Camellia japonica. 



728 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



be done in early spring, when growth is commencing. There are 
many good hybrids, and the following are a fcAv of the best, the 
colours ranging from white, pink, and red to scarlet : Alba Plena, 
Fimbriata, Delicata, C. H. Hovey, Jubilee, and Imbricata. 
C. 7'eticidata and C. japonica (Fig. 473) are singles, the last 
being the chief parent of the hybrids and best for stocks. 

Choisya ternata makes a handsome pot-plant, having white 
flowers. Propagate by cuttings of ripened wood in July, in slight 
bottom-heat, and grow in the cool pit. Soil : loam, peat, and 
sand. Flowers (white) in Alay and June, 
the case of full-grown plants. 

Chorizemas are useful, giving flowers throughout 



Height 3ft. to 4ft. in 



sprmg 



and 



early summer. They have rather a straggly growth, and it is 
necessary to cut back all the strongest shoots after flowering. 
Propagate by cuttings of side-shoots in May or June in the cool 



pit. Grow in peat, loam, and sand. 
C. IIe?ichma7ini, C. La%vrencia7ium^ and 

to 3ft. 



Sorts : C. 
C. variiun. 



coi'datiun^ 
Colours, 



orange-red and scarlet. 

Citrus Aurantium 
many varieties, but all 



Height 2 ft. 



is the well-known 
require the same 



Orange. 




Fig. 474.— Citrus Aurantium. 



There are 
treatment. Propagate 
by cuttings of young 
shoots at any time 
after growth is fin- 
ished, placing in 
strong bottom- 
heat. Grafting is 
also largely prac- 
tised, and for this 
purpose seedlings 
are raised, the seed 
being sown in spring 
— January or Feb- 
ruary is the best 
time. The grafted 
plant should be 
placed in strong 
bottom-heat. Grow in a 
rich compost of fibrous 
loam, leaf-soil, dry cow- 
manure, and sand, using 
all the materials in a 
coarse state, and adding 
lumps of charcoal to keep 



give 



liquid manure 



the soil open and sweet. AA'hilst growing 

twice a week. Grow cool in winter and warm in spring. The 
plants may be placed outside in August and September if not 
grown for fruit (to obtain this properly they require special treatment, 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



729 



and not to be grown as 
greenhouse - plants). The 
flowers are borne in sum- 
mer. Sorts : C. Auran- 
tiiim (Sweet Orange) (Fig. 
474), C. Bigaradia (Seville 
Orange), C. decumana 
(Shaddock), C Limonum 
(Lemon), C.Linietta (Lime), 
and C. medica (Citron) 
(Fig. 475). 

Clethra arborea is 
known as the Lily of the 
Valley Tree, having white 
flowers somewhat resem- 
bhng those of that plant. 
Propagate by cuttings of 
the young wood in April or 
May, and grow cool. It 
makes a fine specimen 
plant, and flowers in August 
and September. 

COLEONEMA PULCHRUM 



shrub, bearing red flowers 
Propagate from cuttings 




IS 



a 
in 



shrub 




pretty 
May. 

of the young 
shoots in June and 
July. Grow in peat, 
loam, and sand, in 
the cool pit. The 




Fig. 475. — Citrus medica. 



Fig. 476. — CoRREA cardixalis. 



attams a 
height of 
between 
4ft. and 5ft. 

CoRONiLLA GLAUCA is a small- 
growing plant, having yellow fra- 
grant flowers. Propagate by cuttings 
(which root freely) in early sum- 
mer, in the cool pit, growing in 
the same house, and placing out- 
side towards the end of summer. 
Soil : loam, leaf-soil, and sand. 
Flowers in June and July. There 
is also a vellow variegated form. 

CoRREAS are useful for summer 
(June) flowering. Propagate by 
cuttings in bottom-heat in April 
and ]\ray. Some sorts do not 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



s8 



strike easy, and are best grafted on the common and more 
robust C. alba. Grow in peat, loam, and sand in warm pit in 
spring, transferring to the cool one later. Sorts : C. cardinalis 
(Fig. 476), C. Harrisii^ and C. magnifica. 

Daphne indica is a most desirable plant 
for the greenhouse, not only on account of 
its beautiful flowers, but also for the delicious 
perfume which they give off, and for its free- 
flowering qualities. It is good either for pots 
or for planting out, especially if grafted. Pro- 
pagate by cuttings of half-ripened wood in 
summer, or graft on D. Mezereiini (a wild 
European species) in March in the warm pit. 
Grow in fibrous peat, loam, and a little sand 
in the cool pit. Very often Daphnes are 
found not to succeed well in certain localities, 
and this is supposed to be due to the w^ater. 
It is best to use only rain-water, and this 
must be given with great caution after the 
growing season. Grafted plants will flower 
more freely when young, and are more robust 
than those on their own roots, but do not 
last so long. Sorts : D. i. alba and D. i. 
rub?'a. The flowers are small, wax-like, and 
borne in clusters surrounded by a whorl of 
glossy deep green leaves. 



Epacrises are most useful and very showy 
plants for winter and early spring blossoming, 
having long drooping racemes of tubular, w^ax- 
like flowers. Propagate by cuttings of the 
young shoots in May or June in the cool pit. 
Grow in rather roughly-broken peat and sand, 
and when large add a little loam. The erect 
bushy kinds should be cut back after flower- 
ing about April, keeping warm, repotting after 
they have well started, and later transferring 
to the cool pit. The young shoots should 
have the points pinched out soon after 
starting. During August and September place 
the plants outdoors, and winter in the cool 
pit. These flower during winter and early 
spring. The looser and more drooping kinds 
must not be so pruned, but must only have 
the longest shoots shortened directly the 
flowers begin to fade. These do not flower so early. Sorts. — 
Erect : Hyacinthiflora, Candidissima, Carminata, Rosea Elegans, 
and Vesuvius. Drooping : Devoniana, Rubra Superba, Miniata, 



Fig. 477. — Erica 
hybrida. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 




mi 




and ]\xiniata Splendens. Colours : variations of white, rose, and 
red. Height i^ft. to 2ft. 

Ericas (Heaths) are a very well-known and justly-prized class 
of plants : they may be had in blossom from October till 
midsummer. Most of the species come from 
the Cape, but they are most difficult plants 
to grow, and can only be successfully managed 
when provided with a house to themselves, 
where they can receive special attention. Still, 
with judicious treatment, many may be grown 
with a fair share of success alon2; with other 
plants. 

Propagate by cuttings of young shoots in 
spring or early summer in the cool pit, using 
plenty of sand in the soil, and ha\ing a layer 
half an inch thick on top. Grow in the cool 
pit or a close frame, and pot in thumb pots 
at first. Soil : fibrous peat, well broken or 
chopped, and silver-sand, with plenty of 
drainage. Pot very firmly and water very 
carefully. When growing they may have 
plenty, provided the drainage is good. Never 
allow them to suft'er from want at any time. 
After flowering some of the free-growing sorts 
may be pruned a little ; the others should 
only have just the points of the longest 
shoots taken out. . Grow cool, and give as 
much air as possible all through the year, 
only using sufficient heat to keep out frost, 
or a little in very damp weather. Only shade j 
when the sun is very strong, and from July 
to the end of September grow outside in 
full sun ; it is better, when this is done, to 
plunge the pots in ashes, to prevent the 
plants from getting too dry. 

The most useful sorts are : E. Caven- 
dishia?ia, E. gracilis vernalis, E. hybrida 
(Fig. 477), E. hyemalis^ E. Lambertiana^ 
E. McNabiana^ E. gracilis, E. aufiujuialis, 
E. ventricosa, E. cocci ?iea, vars. minor and 

superba, E. verticillata, E. persoliita alba yiq,. 478. Erici 

(Fig. 478), and E. Wilmoreaiia. Large plants persoluta alba. 
may be grown for years in the same pots. 

Colours range through white, yellow, pink, red, and purple. 
Hei_ght I ft. to 2-^ft. 

EuTAXiAS are useful shrubs, flowering in June and July. Pro- 
pagate by cuttings of partially-ripened shoots in May. Grow in 




732 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the cool pit in peat, loam, and sand. Sorts : E. myrtifolia and 
E. pungens. Colour orange. Height 

Fuchsias are most graceful and ornamental plants for green- 
house decoration durmg summer. Cuttings may be struck either 
in March, from freshly-started plants, or in summer from 
growing plants. Grow in loam, leaf - soil, rotten manure, and 
sand. After flowering, in early autumn, place out of doors in 
the full sun. As soon as frost begins, take in, stow under the 

stages of the cool pit, and keep 
dry. In February cut hard back 
and start in the warm pit ; 
shake out and repot after the 
plants have well started, pinch 
two or three times, and remove 
into the cool pit after good 
growth has been made. For 
pot work it is best not to keep 
plants longer than three years, 
but old ones do well planted 
out, and grown either as stan- 
dards or trained on pillars. 
Sorts: General Roberts, ]\Ioles- 
worth. Avalanche, Countess of 
Aberdeen, Eynesford Gem, Presi- 
dent, and Earl of Beaconsfield 
(Fig. 479). 

Gardenias have white beauti- 
fully scented flowers. Propagate 
by cuttings of half-ripened wood, 
in strong bottom-heat, in sum- 
mer. Grow in peat, loam, and 
sand. After flowering, prune 
back and place in the warm 
pit, keeping close and moist : harden off in the cool pit, and 
keep there during winter, starting again in the warm pit. If 
desired they may be successfully forced and had in blossom in 
winter and early spring. Flowering period, April and May. The 
double form of G. fiorida is usually grown for the greenhouse. 

Heaths. — See Ericas. 

Hydrangeas are useful for summer flowering. Propagate by 
cuttings of young shoots in ]\Iarch, in heat, and pot on into 
6in. pots, growing in the warm pit. Give liquid manure until a 
good head is formed, when harden off the plants and place 
outside in the open. When frost sets in, remove to the cool 
pit, keeping rather dry till February, then move into the warm 
pit to start, shake out old soil, and repot. By this means fine 
handsome heads of flower are obtained on single stems. If large 




ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



733 



bushy plants are required, after flowering ripen off in the open, 
cut back, and shift on again in spring after starting. Sorts : 
H. hortensis, H. panicidata^ and Dr. J. Hogg, H. horte?isis 
bears large flat heads of bright rose-coloured flowers ; sometimes, 
when iron is present in the soil, the flowers become a beautiful 
blue. Dr. H. J. Hogg is an extra fine variety. H. paniadata 
is the plumed Hydrangea, bearing very large trusses of beautiful 
white flowers. Height 2ft. 

LucuLiA GRATissiMA (Fig. 480) is a magnificent shrub for 
planting out, and has a very beautiful odour. Propagate by 
cuttings of young, partially-ripened shoots in June and July in 
slight bottom-heat, and grow in peat, loam (using it rather rough 
when the plants are large), 



sand, and charcoal. The 
pink flowers are borne during 
winter. 




Magnolia fuscata is a 
dwarf evergreen shrub, the 
flowers of which, although 
rather insignificant in them- 
selves, have a very powerful 
and pleasant perfume. It 
does best when planted out, 
but may be grown 
in a large pot. 
Propagate by layers 
in May after flower- 
ing, or by cuttings 
of ripened shoots 
in August, in a 
cool pit or frame. 
Grow in turfy loam, peat, and 
sand. Flowers in April and 
May. 

Myrtus (Myrtle).— These 
are pretty and easily-grown 
shrubs, having bright green 
leaves and fragrant white 

flowers. They do well either as small plants in pots or as large 
specimens in pots or planted out. Propagate by cuttings of 
partially-ripened wood in early summer, in a cool pit or frame, 
and grow in light loam, leaf-soil, and sand, with a little peat, in 
a cool pit, standing outdoors to ripen during August and the 
early part of September. The flowers are produced in May and 
June. Sorts : M. coiiimimis and varieties. 

Nerium Oleander (Fig. 481) is a handsome and well-known 
plant, commonly called Oleander. Propagate by cuttings of the 



P^IG. 480. — LuCULIA GRATISSIMA. 



734 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



young shoots in spring in the warm pit ; pot on, keep growing, and 
give plenty of water ; these should flower the same season. Cut 
back a little after flowering so as to obtain bushy plants, and 
ripen in the open. Keep cool during the winter and place in 

the warm pit in early spring 
to start. Flowers in June 
and July. Soil : loam, leaf- 
soil, and rotten manure. 
Feed with liquid manure 
whilst growing. N. Oleander 
has red flowers, and its 
variety, N. O. alburn^ white. 
Both do well and make 
handsome plants planted 
out. Height 4ft. to 5ft. 

Oleander. — See Nerium. 

Periwinkles. — See 
Vincas. 

POLYGALA OPPOSITIFOLIA 

and varieties make good 
pot-plants. Propagate by 
cuttings of the side-shoots 
in summer, in a cool pit 
or frame, and grow in peat, 
loam, and sand. Cut back 
a little after flowering, grow 
on, and ripen in a cool 
frame. Flowers purple, 
borne in early summer. 

Rhododendrons play a 
very important part in fur- 
nishing the greenhouse during late winter and early spring. 
There are two sections, (i) those coming from the Himalayas, 
China, and Japan ; and (2) those coming from the Malay Archi- 
pelago, Java, and Borneo. 

(i) The Himalayan Section all form large shrubs, and in some 
cases trees. They may be grown in large pots or tubs, but are 
best planted out in peat and sand. Give plenty of water, and 
syringe well when growing. Propagate either by layers in spring 
or by cuttings of young shoots in early summer, just as they 
are beginning to get firm at the base, and insert almost entirely 
in sand in the cool pit. Grow cool. Sorts : R. arboreuni (Fig. 482), 
R. barbatnni^ R. Gibso?iii, R. Dalhoiesice, R^ Manglesii, R. fiiveu7?i, 
R. grande, R. Aiicklandii, R. Jesteria?mni^ R. ciliatuin^ and 
R. keivense. These all bear large flowers in big trusses, some- 
what resembling the hardy varieties of R. ponticum^ as also in 
their habit. See illustration of R. arboreum (Fig. 482). 




Fig. 481. — Nerium Oleander. 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



735 



(2) The Malayan Section require to be grown warm, say in a 
winter temperature of from 5odeg. to 6odeg., and in a moist atmo- 
sphere ; they make small shrubs, and are very suitable for loin. 
pots. Propagate the same as the Himalayan species, and grow 
in peat and sand. They may be had in flower from early winter 
till late summer. After flowering continue to grow on in warmth, 
gradually hardening and ripening off. When growth is completed 
do not prune, but tie in the 
shoots to obtain a good 
shape. Sorts : R. balsamince- 
^oru77i, R. jasniinifiorimt^ 
R. javanicmn, and R. multi- 
color^ and of these there are 
many hybrids. These seldom 
attain a height of more than 
2ft. The flowers are fleshy, 
having a waxy ap- 
pearance, with long 
tubes, and are pro- 
duced in lax open 
trusses. 

Roses. — Although 
really hardy plants, 
no greenhouse would 
be complete without 
Tea Roses. These 
should be grafted on 
seedling Briar stocks 
in January, in heat. 
Continue to grow 
warm for a short time till after union has taken place, and later 
remove to the cool house, shift into 6in. pots, and later into Sin. 
or loin. pots. Grow outside during the summer, and place in the 
cool pit in autumn. If it is desired to obtain them in blossom 
early, they must be placed in the warm pit and gently forced. 
If they are desired for summer blossom, continue to grow in the 
cool pit. Use a rich compost of yellow loam, dry cow-dung, 
leaf-soil, and sand. Prune carefully, but not hard, before growth 
commences. The best sorts for pots are : Catherine Mermet, 
Marie Van Houtte, Madame Lambard, Niphetos, ' Sappho, 
Souvenir de S. A. Prince, The Bride, and Waban. 

Tecoma Smithii and 2\ capensis are very handsome and free- 
flowering pot-plants for summer use. Propagate by cuttings ot 
young, partially-ripened shoots in summer, in slight heat, and 
grow in a cool pit or frame in loam, leaf-soil, and sand. Ripen 
off outside after flowering, and keep cool in winter. These 
plants have long tubular flowers, borne at the ends of ripened 
shoots. T. capensis is bright orange, and T. Smithii^ which is 




Fig. 482. — Rhododendron arboreum. 



736 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

a hybrid between T. velutina and T. capensis^ has briUiant 
scarlet flowers. Height when grown in pots, 2jft. 

ViNCAS (Periwinkles). — These make very pretty pot-plants, 
flowering in spring and early summer. Propagate by cuttings 
of partially ripened shoots in early summer, and grow in a warm 
pit in loam, sand, and leaf-soil. Sorts : V. ocellata, V. ?'osea, and 
V. r. alba. 

Bulbous and Tuberous Flowering Plants. 

These play an important part in keeping the greenhouse 
supplied with blossoms. Their name is legion, and it will 
only be possible in the limited space at our disposal to mention 
a very few of the best known and most useful species and 
varieties. For the most part they are easy of cultivation, and 
do not present the same difficulties as many of the subjects 
described in the foregoing groups. 

All these plants have a marked resting period, during which 
time most of them should be kept quite dry, but it is most 
necessary that the drying should be done gradually, and that 
the bulbs should not be forced to ripen off before their time. 
After flowering is finished watering should be continued, and the 

plants allowed to com- 
plete their growth. \\'hen 
they show signs of dying 
naturally, the supply of 
water should be les- 
sened, till at length they 
become quite dry ; at 
the same time give full 
exposure to the sun. 
Many species benefit by 
being placed close to 
the glass and "baked." 

It is an advantage to 
have a special shed con- 
structed for the stowing 
away of these bulbs and 
tubers whilst resting. 
This shed should be 
well ventilated and be 
perfectly dry, having a 
concrete floor, and pro- 
vided with sufficient 
heat to keep out frost 
with shelves the pots 
containing the tubers or bulbs may be placed on them and 
kept perfectly dry till starting time. For bulbs, <Scc., that are 




ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



737 



taken out of the pots, trays having a bottom composed of 
strips of wood, with spaces in between, should be used, and 
these must be placed on blocks, so as to admit the free passage 
of air. 

All the bulbs are propagated by offsets, which method is- 
described in the Chapter "On Plant Propagation." All that is 
necessary is to save these, and grow them on ; many may also 
be raised from seed. The tuberous-rooted plants are propagated 
by division or by cuttings. 

AcHiMENES are tuberous-rooted. They have most beautiful 
flowers, which are very varied in colour (Fig. 483). Start tubers 




Fig. 484. — Begonia Mrs. Pereira. 



in heat, placing them first in shallow pans in light soil ; after- 
wards, when the shoots are about 2in. long, place in pots, and 
grow on in the warm pit, giving plenty of manure. Use loam, 

3 B 



738 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



leaf-soil, and sand, and stand the plants near the glass to ripen 
off in autumn. Keep the tubers in their pots during winter, 
shaking out when required again for starting. The flowers are 
borne all the summer. There are many hybrids. 

Agapanthus umbellatus is a well-known tuberous-rooted plant, 
and is very easy of cultivation. Propagate by division in spring, 
and grow in rich loam and sand. After the plants have attained 
a, good size in large pots or tubs, do not shift, but feed with 
weak liquid manure during the growing period. Grow in the 




Fig. 485. — Begonia Diamond Jubilee. 



cool pit, ripen off in the open in autumn (but do not allow 
to become dry), and place in a cool pit again for winter. 
Flowers all the summer. 

Amaryllis. — See Hippeastrums. 
Arum Tily. — See Richardia. 

Begonias. — The tuberous-rooted species and varieties of these 
are extremely ornamental and useful for summer decoration. 
Raise from seed sown in February in a warm pit, pot on, and grow 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



739 



in a light, rich compost of fibrous loam, leaf-soil, rotten manure, 
and sand. Pot lightly, keep in the warm pit near the glass till 
they have attained a good size, and then remove to the cool pit. 
After flowering, ripen and dry off outside in full sun. Later in 
the autumn shake out the roots and lay in trays of sand in a 
frost-proof shed till required for starting again in February. This 
should be done by placing in trays of leaf-soil and sand in 
gentle heat, and pottmg up after they have started. 

There are now a great number of splendid hybrids of many 
colours and shades — of red, crimson, rose, white, and yellow. 
The following may receive mention : Double — Daphne, Khartoum, 
The Geisha, Mrs. Pereira (Fig, 484), The Sirdar, Beatrice, Charlotte 
Bronte, Diamond Jubilee (Fig. 485), Ivanhoe, and Queen Victoria ; 
single — Ruby, Kitchener, Akbar, Bayard, Falstaff, Poetess, and 
Rider Haggard. 

Brunsvigias are useful bulbs, very much resembling the 
Hippeastrums. Grow in loam, peat, sand, and charcoal, starting 
in February, and continue 
to grow on after flowering 
(in July) in the cool pit 
during summer ; dry off 
in autumn, and store in 
their pots during winter. 
Propagate by offsets. 
Sorts : B. grandifiora^ 
B. Josephiitce and var. 
minor ^ and B. radula. 

Cannas are most ele- 
gant plants, rivalling the 
orchids in the richness 
of their colours and the 
shape of their flowers, 
borne in July and August. 
Propagate by seed sown 
in the warm pit in Feb- 
ruary, and by divisions 
just after starting in 
March. Grow in the warm 
pit in fibrous loam, leaf- 
soil, rotten manure, and 
sand. Ripen off in a 
frame in autumn, and 
store in their pots in the 
shed. There are many 
hybrids, the best being 
those raised by Messrs, 
Crozy. The following may be mentioned : Italia, Austria, Aurore, 
Alphonse Bouvier, Baron de Hirsch, Jules Chretien, Mme. Crozy, 

3 B 2 





Fig. 486. — Canna Florence Vaughan. 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Florence Vaughan (Fig. 486), and Konigen Charlotte. The 
foliage is also very handsome, being sometimes a bright glossy 
green, and in other cases a deep purple. The leaves are large 
and broad, clasping the flower-stem, which rises from the centre. 
Height 2Ut. 

Clivia. — See Imantophyllum. 

Crinums are very handsome bulbous plants, and make fine 
specimens. When well established in large pots, do not shift, 
but top-dress, look to the drainage, and feed well. Grow in 
rich loam, leaf-soil, and sand. Start in warmth in February, and 
grow warm, removing to the cool pit later. Ripen off outdoors 




Fig. 487. — Cyclamen persicum. 



in autumn, and store in their pots. Propagate by offsets. Sorts : 
C. longifiorii7n^ C. capense, and C. Moorei. The flowers, which 
are of good size with a wide mouth, are borne several together 
on long fleshy stalks. 

Cyclamen. — The splendid Cyclamens that are so much grown 
for the greenhouse are all hybrids from C. persicuin (Fig. 487). 
Raise from seed; and it is best to do this at two different 
periods, so as to have batches for blossoming either in 
autumn or in winter. These young plants should flower at 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



741 



eighteen months after sowing. Do not keep them more than 
three years, as young ones give the best results. 

To flower the plants in autumn and winter sow in June in pans, 
and place in the warm pit ; prick off, and when the roots are the 
size of Peas, shift singly into 3in. pots. Always allow plenty of 
room between each plant, and keep them near the glass during 
the whole period of grow^th. Pot so that the corms are only 
half buried, and keep the material on which they stand constantly 
moist. Give air whenever it can be managed w^ithout low^ering 
the temperature. In the follow^ing May or June shift into 6in. 
pots, and give more air; also syringe gently overhead. In 




Fig. 488. — Freesia refeacta alba. 



September remove to the cool pit and give plenty of air. After 
blossoming, place again in the cool pit, and in spring shift to 
a cold frame to rest ; there they may be shaded, and must never 
be allowed to become quite dry. Start again in July, and after 
a little growth has been made shift into pots a size larger. Treat 
the same as before, but admit more air. 

For flowering in spring, sow in November, prick off, and place 
in a cool pit. Keep in pans through the winter, and pot in summer. 
Grow in frames, but near the glass during summer, and in the 
cool pit during winter, shifting to the warm pit in February to 
open the flowers. Rest in a shaded frame, and start again in 
October. For soil use light fibrous loam, leaf-mould, and sand. 



742 THE BOOK OF GARDEXIXG. 

Freesia refracta, and its variety alba (Fig. 488), are extremely 
pretty and very sweet-scented, bulbous plants. Propagate by offsets. 
Pot up in August in 6in. pots, putting about a dozen corms in 
each. Grow in the cold frames during winter, protecting enough 
to keep out frost. From November onwards take in batches 
to flower in succession, placing first in the cool pit, and later in 
the warm pit to flower ; also feed a little at this time and attend 
to staking. After flowering, ripen off gradually, and continue to 
keep in pots when dry in the cool pit near the glass, shaking out 
and repotting in August. Soil : loam, leaf-soil, dry cow-manure, 
and sand. 




Fig. 489. — Gladiolus xaxus delicatissi:ma. 



Gladiolus are very beautiful and attractive bulbous plants. 
Although most of the species are used for outdoor decoration, 
there are still several well worth growing for the greenhouse, 
especially the early-flowering varieties, which make a fine show 
during April and IMay. Foremost amongst these are G. Colvilleu 
bright red ; G. C. alba, white ; and that beautiful variety called 



ox GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 743 

The Bride, which is so much grown. This is dwarf, of very 
neat habit, and produces compact spikes of the purest white 
flowers. 

G. cardinalis has bright orange flowers, with white spots ; 
G. byzantimis is very showy, with red and purple flowers, and 
there are some fine hybrids ; G. blandiis has flesh-coloured 
flowers ; G. alatus, scarlet ; G. communis, red, and its two 
varieties, aldus, white, and carneus, flesh ; G. floribundus is citron ; 
G. naiiiis delicatissima (Blushing Bride) (Fig. 489) is white, with 
pink and carmine flakes ; and G. ramosus is rose. There are 
also many beautiful hybrids of most of the above. These should 
all be potted in good loam, with a free admixture of sand, in 
autumn, kept in a cool frame till the pots are full of roots, 
when give a few degrees more heat, and place in the green- 
house as the flower-spikes begin to " show. The beautiful 




Fig. 490. — Gloxinias. , 

hybrids of G. gafidavensis may also be utilised for late autumn 
and early winter blossoming. These are best potted singly in 
6in. pots at the end of May, using a similar compost to that 
already advi^d. Plunge outdoors in rich soil, covering the 
tops of the pots about 2in., and during dry weather water 
well. When frosts begin, lift into a place in the cool pit, 
shifting into the greenhouse as the buds appear. 

Gloxinias (Fig. 490) are most valuable for summer flowering, 
and are best raised from seed. Sow in January or February 
in pans, and place in the warm pit close to the glass : prick 
off and pot in 3in. pots, still keeping near the glass, and for this 
purpose, when the ordinary stage is not close enough, it is 
best to use either a light extra temporary stage or inverted 



744 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



The 
the 
and 

this 
any 



flower-pots. In June shift into 4in. pots. After flowering, 
gradually reduce the water supply, place in the cool frame, and 
lessen the shade till they ripen off, after which allow them to 
become quite dry. Keep in pots in the cool pit placed on 
their sides under the stage. To obtain a succession start at 
different times from February till the end of jNIarch. When 
potting do not bury the crowns, but let them come just above 
the surface. Pot in moist soil, and do not water till well 
started. After the fourth year throw away the old plants, 
flowers of these are tubular, with wide open mouths ; 
varieties and delicate shades of the colours are magnificent, 
the markings of the throat very beautiful. 

Gloxinias may also be increased by leaf-cuttings, and 
method is employed when it is desired to preserve 
specially good varieties. Take fully - matured leaves with a 
portion of the stalk attached in June or July, and split the 
midrib through in several places ; lay flat on the surface of 

the soil, and place in the 
warm pit Corms will 
be formed at each cut ; 
these must be wintered 
and grown on as already 
described. Soil : peat, 
loam, leaf-soil, and sand. 

HiPPEASTRU.MS {Ama- 
ryllis). — The splendid 
hybrids of these bulbs 
(Fig. 491) have now come 
well to the fore, and make 
a grand show in early 
spring. To raise from 
seed, sow when ripe in 
autumn in pans, placing 
in the warm pit. Prick 
off, and when large 
enough plant out in shal- 
low beds of turfy loam 
and sand prepared in 
the warm pit. Cover 
the greater portion of 
the bulbs, and keep grow- 
ing warm, giving plenty 
of moisture for two years. 
In spring pot into 6in. 
pots, and in autumn 
full sun : keep in the 
in the warm in February or 



Fig. 491. — Hybrid Hippeastrum. 



gradually dry 
cool pit 



during 



off and 
winter. 



ripen, 
and start 



admitting 



March ; they will then soon come into blossom. When the flowers 



ox GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



745 



in the warm pit in early 



'5- 

summer, 



and 



m 



the 



begin to expand shift to greenhouse, and as they cease 
flowering, place in the warm pit again and plunge in old tan, 
giving plenty of air, light, and moisture. During the summer dry 
off, and remove from the tan in the autumn, treating as before, 
and giving a small shift if required. Soil : loam, sand, and 
charcoal broken small. Hippeastrums may also be increased by 
oifsets removed before potting and planted in beds. The 
flowers are borne in trusses of three or four on the ends of 
fleshy stems, about i^ft. long. They are large, and the colour 
varieties are very fine, being shades of red and white. 

Imantophyllum {Clivia) miniatum (Fig. 492) is a grand plant 
for late winter and early spring blossoming. Propagate by 
division. Grow 
cool pit later. 
Give plenty 
of water and 
no shade, ex- 
cept when the 
sun is very 
scorching. 
Ventilate 
freely, and 
feed well with 
manure-water. Re- 
duce the water sup- 
ply in autumn, and 
during the winter 
only give suflicient 
to prevent the soil 
from becoming 
dust-dry. As the 
flowers show, place 
in the warm pit to 
open. Grow in good 




Fig. 



492. — iMANTOPHYLLUil (ClR'IA) 
MINIATUM. 



but allow the 



loam and plenty of sand, and do not shift often, 
plants to become quite pot-bound. 

Lachenalias are spring-flowering bulbs. Pot in autumn, five 
or six together in a 6in. pot, in good loam, leaf-soil, and sand. 
Place in the cool frame, and give air whenever possible. After 
flowering, remove to a frame, gradually dry off, and, when dry, 
keep in the shed. Propagate by offsets, removed in autumn 
when potted. Sorts : L. Nelsoni, bright golden yellow ; 
L. pe?idiila, crimson-purple, tipped with green ; L. tricolor^ 
yellow, with red suffusions and green tips. 

LiLiuMS. — There are several species which, although hardy, are 
better grown in the greenhouse, and which no collection should 
be without. Pot in autumn, either singly in 6in., or three 



746 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



together in loin. pots. Start into growth under the stages of 
the cool pit. After they are well started in early spring, shift 
into a deep frame, and give plenty of air. As soon as they get 
big, plunge in ashes in the open ; and when the blossoms begin 

to show (about June or July), place 
in a cool pit to open. After flower- 
ing, stand in a shady spot outside 
to ripen, and pot as before. Soil ; 
good loam, leaf-soil, rotten manure, 
and sand. Pot firmly, and give plenty 
of moisture and liquid manure whilst 
growing. L. aiiratum should have 
half peat. Propagate by offsets at 
times of potting, and plant in a bed 
in frames or in the open. The best 
sorts for pot-culture, are : L. auratiiniy 
L. longifioruvi^ L. /. Wallichianum 
(creamy-white, sweet scented), L. 
eximium^ L. Hansoni (Fig. 493), 
L. speciosiim alburn^ L. s. rubriuUy 
L. s. Krcetzeri, and L. s. Melpomene. 

RiCHARDIA AFRICANA {cetMopicd) 

(Arum Lily). — This good old plant 
(Fig. 494) is of great value in the 
greenhouse. Propagate by division 
in spring, pot in good rich loam and 
sand, and place in the warm pit, 
giving plenty of water. Later shift 
to the cool pit, giving very little 
shade, and transfer to larger pots in 
June, when the plants will flower. 
After flowering, place out in the 
open, but remove inside before 
frost comes, and keep in cool pit. 
They may be brought into flower in 
succession by placing in the \varm 
pit as required. R. ElUottiana (Fig. 
495) has yellow spathes and leaves 
spotted with white ; it requires to be 
grown in the warm pit during the 
winter and in the cool pit in sum- 
mer. Then there is R. Peiitlandii^ 
with deep green foliage and golden-yellow spathes. 

Strelitzia (Bird of Paradise Flower) is a very beautiful plant. 
Propagate by division in spring, and grow in Sin. pots in rich 
loam and sand in the cool pit in summer and the warm pit in 
winter. The flowers are produced in April and May. Sorts : 
S. Augusta and S. Regince (Fig. 496). 




Fig. 493. — LiLiUM Hansoni. 



ox GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



747 



Vallota purpurea (Scarborough Lily) somewhat resembles a 
Hippeastrum, and should receive similar treatment. Raise from 
offsets, and grow in sandy loam, peat, and leaf-soil. Keep dry in 
the cool pit in winter, grow warm in summer after flowering, and 
then partially dry off in early autumn. The flowers are scarlet. 

Veltheimia viridifolia is a useful bulb, flowering in spring. 
Propagate by offsets. At the time of potting in autumn grow in 
loam, leaf-soil, and sand, in a cool pit or in frames. Ripen 
after flowering, keeping in pots, and starting again in February. 




Ornamental Foliage Plants. 

Plants grown for their ornamental fol 
play a very important part in the furnish 
of the greenhouse, being of the greatest help 
the setting off of groups of flowering subj 
There are quite 
a number of 
subjects that 
may be utilised 
for this purpose, 
and a good 
selection will 
add consider- 
ably to the in- 
terest of the 
house. For the 
most part they 
do not present 
many difficul- 
ties as regards cultivation, and 
as they are only required for 
their foliage, many may be 
grown in the greenhouse al- 
together. In many cases for 
placing on the shelves it is 
best to keep on raising 
young plants to take the 
place of older ones when the 
latter begin to look shabby 
and become too big. These 
young plants always give the 



Fig. 494. — Richardia africaxa. 



best coloured and most healthy foliage, and being easy to pro- 
pagate a supply can readily be kept up. 

The effect of these plants, however, and of all the flowering 
plants, greatly depends on the taste exercised in their arrangement. 
They should be scattered thinly amongst the groups of flowering 
plants on the stages, using one species to a group. If the 



748 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 




ing 
tall, 
age 



flowering plants are stiff and heavy, light, graceful-leaved subjects 
should be used, which will show up above the flowers, and vice 
versa, e.g., Begonia sei7ipe?'fiorens and Draccena gracilis. If the 
flowering plants are loose and graceful, stiff, erect foliage plants 
may be used, e.g., Ficus elastica and Fuchsias. If the foliage 
plants used are not tall enough to show above the flowering plants 
they may be raised on inverted pots. If the flowering plants 

have long 

^ ^^^^ spikes of blos- 

som it is bet- 
ter to use 
small foliage 
plants as a 
groundwork, 
and to let the 
spikes show 
above ; and 
in some cases, 
if the flower- 
plants are 
small foli- 
plants as 
g r o u n d w o rk 
and large ones 
the flowering 
used with ad- 
Never make banks 
foliage at the back of 
shelves ; these 
ight and have 
On the con- 
trary, scatter the plants at 
fairly even distances amongst the groups 
of flowering subjects; by this means a 

graceful effect is ob- 
tained. For the front of the shelves 
and the beds small foliage plants may 
be used, so as to hide the pots as 
much as possible ; and for the centre 
beds large specimens may be 
in the middle and scattered 
the groups of other plants. 

In all cases regard must be paid to the colour of the 
plants used, and the flowers amongst which they are placed. 
Contrast should be aimed at, placing dark foliage amongst light 
and gay-coloured flowers, and light foliage amongst dull and dark- 
coloured flowers. If the foliage is coloured, as in the case of 
Dracaenas, Coleus, &c., the plants must not be placed amongst 




to mix with 
plants may be 



vantage, 
of 

groups on the 
shut out the 
a heavy effect 



Fig. 495.— Rtchardia 
Elliottiana. 



placed 
among 



foliage 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 749 

flowers having similar colours. In some instances when the 
flowering plants themselves have large foliage, such as Cinerarias, 
many foliage plants would be wasted ; but a few Cordylines or 
Palms tall enough to stand well above them could be used with 
advantage. 

As before stated, foliage plants are nearly all ot easy culti- 
vation, requiring nothing beyond ordinary attention, suflSicient pot 
room, good feeding in most cases, plenty of water whilst growing, 




Fig. 496. — Strelitzia Regin^. 



and to be moist at all times. Of course to this, as to all rules, there 
are some exceptions. It will be noticed that in the following 
selections Ferns and Palms are omitted ; they will be found 
fully described in chapters devoted to their culture. 



75° 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Albizzia lophantha is a most graceful plant, allied to the 
Acacias, and having a Fern-like appearance. Propagate by seeds 
sown in heat in March, pot on, and transfer to the cool pit to 
grow. 

Aloysia citriodora (Lemon-scented Verbena). — This can 
hardly be called an ornamental foliage plant, but should be admitted 
on account of its beautifully-scented leaves. Hard-wooded. Raise 
from cuttings of young shoots in the cool pit in summer, grow 
in fibrous loam and sand, and cut back and transfer to the cool 
pit in winter, placing in the warm one to break in spring. 

Aralias are evergreen hard - wooded plants. Raise from 
cuttings of ripe wood placed in bottom-heat in winter. Grow 
in loam, sand, and peat. Sorts : A. quinqiiefoUa^ A. reticulata 
and A. trifolia. 

Araucarias. — Some of these are very beautiful, ornamental, 
tender Conifers, and are most useful either in a young state 
grown in small pots or as large specimens, planted out or in tubs. 
Propagate by cuttings of the leading shoots in the cool pit, as 
only these will form plants. When a plant has been so treated 
its shape is ruined, and it is either necessary to have a stock 
plant or else to purchase. Sorts : A. exceisa, A. Bidwillii^ 
and A. Cunninghaniii. 

Asparagus plumosus nanus and var. sca?ide?is are most elegant 
plants, and invaluable in the greenhouse. Propagate by division 
in early spring at the time of starting. Plant in loam with 
plenty of sand, giving an abundance of moisture whilst growing. 
In w^inter they require to be rested (when grown as cool green- 
house plants), and so but little water should be given them, and 
the old growths cut away as they begin to fade. When grown 
in the warm pit or stove, growth will be made all the year 
round. In early spring the plants will start again, and then they 
should be repotted. A. p. scand€?is, as the name implies, is a 
climber, and should be grown on a trellis or balloon ; it can 
also be grown on pillars, but will not attain much, height in 
that way. The foliage has a very delicate and Fern-like 
appearance, and is largely used for cutting. 

Aspidistras are universally grown. Propagate by divisions in 
spring, and grow in loam, leaf-soil, and sand. They are most 
useful and effective as good-sized specimens in Sin. pots. Sorts : 
A. elatior variegata, A. lurida and A. /. variegata. Height lift. 

Begonias. — The foliage-leaved section of Begonias are mostly 
stove plants, but there are some that will adapt themselves very 
readily to the greenhouse. The hybrids of B. Rex (Fig. 497) are 
most useful ; they may be propagated by leaf-cuttings in warmth 
during summer in the same manner as Gloxinias. Grow in peat, 
loam, and sand in the warm pit, and remove to the greenhouse 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 75 1 

when of a good size. Give plenty of moisture whilst growing. 
Rest in the autumn (giving less water) in the warm pit, start 
again in February, and repot. B. metallica is very pretty ; this 




±*iG. 497. — Begonia Rex. 



plant is tall, and is best when grown as a large specimen. 
Propagate by cuttings of the points of the shoots in summer, and 
grow the same as in the case of B. Rex. 

Chlorophytum elatum argentea lineare is a useful plant; 
it is tuberous-rooted and has grass-like leaves with white 
stripes. Height 6in. Propagate by division in spring or by 
runners in summer. Grow in loam and sand, giving plenty of 
water, and even in winter do not allow to become at all dry. 

Coleus. — There are many varieties of these beautiful-coloured 
foliage plants which are most effective either as large plants in 
Sin. pots or as rooted cuttings in 3in. pots. Propagate by cuttings 
at any time in the warm pit in bottom-heat. Soil : loam, leaf- 
soil, and sand. 

Cordylines are useful either as small plants for the shelves 
or as large specimens, and may be propagated by ringing with 
pots in the case of large specimens, also by suckers thrown up 
from the root after the head has been removed, or by stems 
laid in cocoanut fibre in a propagating-frame, as described in 
the Chapter on Plant Propagation." All these methods may 
be practised at any time, but are best done in the spring. Grow 



752 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



in loam, leaf-soil, and sand. Sturdier plants are obtained by- 
growing in small pots and feeding. Sorts : C. indivisa and 

C. australis. 

Cyperus alternifolius and variegatus are highly ornamental 
semi-aquatic grasses. Propagate by division in spring and by 
cuttings in summer, rooted either in sand or in warm water, in 
the warm pit. Being semi-aquatic, they must be well supplied 
with moisture during the summer, and may very well be stood 
in saucers filled with water, which, however, should be frequently 
changed and not allowed to become stagnant. Rest in autumn, 
and gradually withhold water. In mid-winter cut down and only 
keep just moist in the cool pit. Start again in February in the 
warm pit. Height 2-|ft. 

Drac^nas take their place in the front rank amongst foliage 
plants, but unfortunately most of them require a stove temperature. 
However, those mentioned here will be found very suitable for 
greenhouse cultivation. Propagate in the same manner as Cordy- 
lines (to which these plants are allied), but towards the middle 
of winter remove to the warm pit and grow there till early spring. 
Soil : Fibrous loam, leaf-soil, rotten dung, and sand. Sorts : 

D. Branantii, D. cojigesta {Cordylme) violacea, D. gracilis, and 
D. rubra. 

Eucalyptus (Australian Gum-Tree). — Many of these are very 
ornamental, and some should have a place in the greenhouse, 
either as small or large specimen plants. Propagate by cuttings 
of the young, half-ripened side-shoots in summer in the cool pit, 
or from seeds sown in spring in gentle heat. Grow in loam^ 
peat, and sand in the cool pit. Towards autumn they are better 
placed outside in the open to ripen, and should be kept 
rather dry during winter. Sorts: E. globulus and E. citriodora ; 
the latter has lemon-scented leaves. 

EuLALiA jAPONiCA is a vcry ornamental grass. Propagate by 
division or by seed sown in early spring in the warm pit. Grow 
in the cool pit, using stiff loam, leaf-soil, and sand. Keep rather 
dry in winter. Varieties of E. japonica {Aliscanthus sijtensis) 
are albo-lineata, foliis-striatis, and zebrina. 

Ficus elastica (India-rubber Plant) is well known and very 
ornamental. Propagate by cuttings of the top or side-shoots in 
January or February in strong bottom - heat. Grow in loam, 
sand, and a little peat, and in February remove to the w^arm 
pit to make growth for about three months, giving plenty of 
moisture. F. repens is a pretty little creeper, useful for 
hanging-baskets or for pots on the edges of the shelves. Raise 
from cuttings in the warm pit. 

Grevillea robusta (Fig. 498) is a very ornamental shrub. 
Propagate by cuttings of the young firm shoots in summer, 
placed first in the cool pit, and when they have begun to 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



753 



in the warm pit. Grow in loam, 



large, 
useful 



callus put in bottom-heat 
leaf-soil, and sand. 

MusA Ensete is a highly ornamental plant, having 
handsome, broad green leaves. When young it is very 
for the shelves, but 
will not long remain 
in that state, for it is 
a quick grower and 
soon makes a large 
specimen, requiring a 
tub or to be planted 
out. Propagate by 
suckers, removed when 
large enough, and 
grow in rich loam, 
rotten manure, leaf- 
soil, and sand ; also 
give liquid manure 
and water freely 
whilst growing. 
After flowering the 
old stem will die 
down, but suckers 
will be thrown up 
from the base. 



Panicum varip:ga 
TUM is a very beauti 
ful and brightly tinted 
creeping grass, most 
useful for hanging- 
baskets or for the 
edges of shelves ; it 
must, however, be 
grown in the warm pit 
during winter. Pro- 
pagate by cuttings 
rooted in sand in 
bottom-heat in early 
summer, and grow in 
loam and leaf-soil with 
plenty of sand. 

Phormium tenax (Flax Lily) is a handsome, broad, flag-leaved 
plant. Propagate by division in early summer, and grow in 
rather stiff loam and sand. Varieties of P. tenax (Fig. 499) : 
a&opurpureum^ Morlandii, 7iigro-pictuni^ and Veitchii. 

SciRPUS RiPARiUM {Isokpis gracUis) is a pretty little plant, 
very useful for the edges of shelves or groups in the centre 

c 




Fig. 498. — Grevillea robusta. 



754 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



beds. Propagate by division in spring, give plenty of water 
during summer, and sufficient to keep the soil just moist in 
winter. Cut down, and start again in the warm pit in February. 
This plant very much resembles fine bright green grass. 

Yuccas. — Many of these are useful ornaments in the green- 
house. Propagate by suckers, removed when large enough in 

early summer. Grow in loam, 
sand, brick rubbish, and mortar 
mixed ; in breaking the bricks, 
the size of the pieces should 
be varied according to the size 
of the plants. Give very little 
water except whilst growing in 
spring and summer. When 
water is given the plants should 
receive a thorough soaking, 
and then they should be allowed 
to go till nearly dry again. Do 
not repot very often. These 
plants throw up handsome 
spikes of flower ; but they are 
such uncertain blos- 
somers that they are 
best grown solely as 
foliage plants. Sorts : 
V. aloifolia and var. 
variegaia, Y. fila- 
inentosa (Fig. 500), 
Y. f. aureo-variegata^ 
Y. f. variega'ta, Y. 
glauca, and Y. fili- 
fera. 

Zebrina pendula 
( Tradescantia ■ tri- 
an extremely pretty 
creeping plant, most useful for 
hanging-baskets and also for 
covering the soil of large pots 
and tubs containing specimen 
plants. Propagate by cuttings 
at any time in the warm pit, 
and grow in any hght soil. 




Fig. 499. — Phormium tenax. 



Climbing- Plants. 

A judicious selection of climbing plants adds very much to 
the beauty of the greenhouse when they are well looked after 
and carefully trained, but a great deal depends on these two 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



755 



pomts. Too often the climbers are much neglected and allowed 
to grow as they like, with the result that they never have a 
really good effect, and spoil that of other plants. 




Fig. 500. — Yucca filamentosa. 

3 c 2 



756 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



The first consideration, and one of great importance, is how 
to plant chmbers. Generally they are planted in the soil under 
the stage, but this method has been found to be very unsatis- 
factory, as they are then difficult to get at, and unless beds are 
made before the house is built they cannot be made at all. 
Proper drainage cannot be given, and it is a matter of great 
difficulty to get at the surface of the soil to stir it up or to top- 
dress ; also during the winter the surface is liable to be baked 
by the heat from the pipes. The best method seems to be to 
make a slate bed along the back of the shelf about ijft. deep 
and I ft. wide, being 6in. above the level of the shelf and ift. 
below, and having separate divisions for each plant, so that 
their roots can be kept apart and each be given its own par- 
ticular soil. This, although it does not give the root-run that 
can be obtained when planted out under the stage, brings the 
surface of the soil into the full light, and admits of easy access 
for the purpose of top-dressing, &c., while it also allows good 
drainage. When planted against pillars, a square slate bed may 
be made at their base, but they must be well drained. If neither 
of these methods is convenient large pots may be used, but they 
are not to be recommended for strong-growing climbers, as they 
cramp the roots too much. 

When training climbers on the roof they should only be 
taken along the rafters, using wires to train them on ; if it is 
desired to spread any out this should only be done at intervals, 
or they will shade the other plants too much. It must be 
borne in mind that they are only auxiliaries, and for this 
reason frequent thinning out of the strong growers must be 
practised. It should be the aim to obtain long flowering 
shoots, to hang down from the roof so that they will just be 
above the head of a tall person standing beneath ; by this 
means a very fine effect is obtained. Only good-sized plants 
should be planted out, and when any have grown too large for 
their beds it will be best to replace them with young plants, 
at the same time renewing the soil. In the winter nearly all 
may be cut back a little, and some of the hard-wooded species 
hard back, when they are at rest. It is also advisable, if a 
stem has become big and knotted by frequent cutting, to take 
up a young shoot in its place, cutting the old one out. 
The climbers are mostly of easy cultivation, and do not present 
many difficulties regarding propagation. Plenty of water should 
be given during the growing season, and but little whilst at 
rest. Care must also be taken to keep them free of insects. 

Abutilon megapotamicum and var. va7'iegata make very 
pretty climbers, having bright scarlet flowers, and the foliage of 
the variegated variety is very effective. Propagate by cuttings 
in spring, and grow in loam and sand. Cut back in autumn. 
Many of the varieties already mentioned under "Soft-wooded Plants." 



ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



757 



may also be trained as climbers. The best effect with all these 
is obtained by training under the roof, so that the drooping 
flowers hang down and may be observed from beneath. 

Akebia quinata is a very pretty plant, especially for twining 
round pillars. Propagate by division of the roots in early 
spring or by cuttings of the firm side-shoots in June or July. 
Soil : peat, loam, and sand. Flowers during early summer. 
Blossoms lilac-pink. 

Bignonias are handsome climbers, bearing large panicles of 
bell-shaped flovv^ers. Propagate by cuttings of the young side- 



shoots in summer in 
and a little peat. 
They flower on 
the old wood, and, 
therefore, should 
be pruned directly 
after flowering, 
and the shoots 
should be short- 
ened back in 
summer to induce 
the formation of 
spurs. Sorts : B. 
capreolata and 
B. speciosa, flower 
ing in early sum 
mer ; and B 



the cool pit. Grow in rich loam, sand. 



venusta, flowering 
in late summer. 

Cestrums are 
very free-flowering 
and useful plants, 
especially for pil- 
lars. Propagate 
by cuttings in 
March or April 
in the warm 
pit ; thin out 
well when 
growing, and 
cut back a 
little in 
autumn. Grow 
in rich loam, 
leaf-soil, and sand 
they will flower soon 




Fig. 501. — CoB.^cA scandens. 



Young 



plants 
after being 



are also 
rooted. 



useful 
Sorts : 



for 
C. 



pots, as 
auranti- 



acum^ C. 



elegans, 



and C. Newelli. Flowers are produced all 



758 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the summer, and are borne in dense clusters at the end of 
the shoots ; they are most effective for pillars. mirantiacum 
has yellow, elegans carmine, and Newelli bright red blossoms. 

Clianthus puniceus (Glory Pea of Australia). — Propagate by 
cuttings of the young wood in May and June in the cool pit. 
Grow in loam, peat, and sand, with lumps of charcoal mixed in. 
Flowers in early summer. 

CoBiEA SCANDENS is an extremely handsome and a very easily- 
grown climber (Fig. 501). It is especially useful for any place 
where there is plenty of room for it to hang in festoons. Propa- 
gate from seed sown in March in the warm pit. Grow in loam 
and sand. Flowers all the summer. The variety variegata has 
very pretty foliage. This must be propagated by cuttings, which 
are difficult to root. They should be taken from the young firm 
side-shoots in July or August, and rooted in the warm pit with 
bottom-heat. The deep purple cup-shaped flowers, with their 

broad bright green 
calyx, are very effective. 

ECCRE MO CARPUS 

SCABER (Fig. 502) has 
pretty orange tubular 
flowers. Propagate by 
V seed sown 

in the warm 

March, 
^^i^^^"*^ Grow in 
\ rich loam 

M and sand, 

jl Flowers all the 
|l summer. 

^ HiBBERTIA DEN- 

TATA is a pretty 
climber with yellow 
flowers. Propagate by cuttings of firm shoots in May in the 
cool pit. Soil : loam, leaf-soil, and sand. Flowers in summer 
and autumn. 

Lapageria rosea and var. a/da are grand plants, but are 
rather difficult to cultivate ; but when a plant has once become 
established in a place that suits it, it will grow and flower freely if 
not disturbed. The two essentials are to have thorough drainage, 
and to keep the roots moist and shaded. Propagate by layers 
in pots during summer. By this means the roots will not be 
disturbed when shifted. Grow on in pots till a considerable 
size is attained, and then plant out. Use rough peat and 
loam with plenty of silver-sand and charcoal to keep the soil 




ON GREENHOUSE PLANTS. 



759 



open and porous. The flowers are produced in summer ; they 
are very beautiful, having the appearance of being made of clear 
red and white wax, and are shaped like a long tubular bell. 

MiNA LOBATA is a fine annual climber. Propagate by seed 
sown in the warm pit in February, pot on, and grow in the 
same pit for a time, and then in the cool one before placing in 
the greenhouse. Grow in light fibrous loam, leaf-soil, and sand. 
Flowers in August and September. 

Myrsiphyllum asparagoides (Smilax) (Fig. 503) has very 
elegant twining stems and foliage, much used for cutting. The 
flowers are white and 
inconspicuous, but very 
fragrant. Propagate by 
division in spring, and 
grow in loam, leaf-soil, 
and sand. The young 
shoots of this plant 
must have strings to 
twine on, as they do 
not like wire. Flowers 
in June and July. 

Passifloras (Passion 
Flowers) are without 
doubt the best of the 
greenhouse climbers, and are 
very easy of cultivation. Pro- 
pagate by cuttings of the young 
shoots in June and July in the 
cool pit, and grow in peat, 
loam, and sand. Flowers all 
the summer. Sorts : P. ccEriilea 
(Fig. 504) and var. raceinosa, 

P. Beiottii, Imperatrice Eugenie, P. hybrida Horibunda^ and 
Constance Elliot. 

Plumbago capensis is a most handsome and free-flowering 
hard-wooded climber. Propagate by cuttings of the side-shoots 
in June and July in the cool pit, and grow^ in loam, leaf-soil, 
and sand. The young plants are good for pot-work, and for 
training on balloons. The flowers are borne in large loose 
trusses. They are rather small and flat, with long slender tubes, 
and are bright blue ; there is also a white variety. They 
appear in summer and autumn, and the plants should be cut 
back afterwards. 

Solanum jasminoides and var. floribundum are fine climbing 
plants. Propagated by cuttings in June and July in the cool 
pit. Soil : rich loam, leaf-mould, and sand. Flowers all the 
summer. 




Fig. 503. — Myrsiphvllum 
asparagoides. 

Showing (i) Portion of Flowering Stem, 
reduced ; (2), ditto, natural size. 



760 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Stephanotis floribunda is a beautifully sweet-scented plant, 
having large trusses of pure white flowers. Propagate by 
cuttings of the old shoots rooted in the warm pit in February. 
Grow on in the warm pit till of a good size before planting. 
Soil : loam, peat, and sand. Flowers from April to June. 

Swainsonia galegifolia and var. albiflora are useful cHmbers. 
Propagate by cuttings of the points of the young shoots taken 
in June and July in the warm pit. Grow to a good size before 
planting out. Soil : loam, peat, and sand. The flowers are borne 
from July to September. 

Tacsonias closely resemble Passifloras, and chiefly differ from 
them by having a very elongated calyx tube. The colours of 
the flowers are brilliant scarlet, rose, and pink. Grow and 
propagate like Passifloras. Sorts : T. e?'ia?itha, T. exo?iie?isis, 
T. ignea, T. manicata^ T. jnol/issima, and T. Van Volxemii. 

TiBOUCHiNA MACRANTHA {Pkromo) is a hard-wooded plant, 
having magnificent purple flowers. Propagate from firm side- 
shoots in June and July in the cool pit. Grow in rough peat, 
loam, and sand. Flowers in July and August. 

Trop^olums. — The hybrids of these are very useful for winter 
flowering, giving a fine display of brilliant scarlet flowers. 
Propagate by cuttings in July and August. Grow on and plant 
out the following summer. Soil : light fibrous loam, leaf-soil, 
and sand. Sorts : T. Lobbianiwi^ T, ca?'diua/e, Lucifer, and Ball 
of Fire. 




Fig. 504.— Passiflora c.5:rulea. 




The cultivation of room plants constitutes a most interesting 
phase of gardening, and it is wonderful that so little is known 
about it considering its simplicity. From the appearance of the 
average room plant one would be inclined to write it down as 
short-lived ; whereas just the opposite is the case with, at any 
rate, the foliaged group, which are by far the most sought after 
of those generally employed. 

The chief causes of failure are : purchasing from a wrong 
source, injudicious treatment — in either watering, the application 
of stimulants in too great quantities or at inopportune times- 
bad potting, too frequent shifts, attempts to increase the stock, 
frost, draught, dust, and bad drainage. There are comparatively 
few insect and other enemies to room plants, and those which 
are in evidence are easily dealt with. Soil, of course, is a factor 
in their culture, and one that is also but little understood. 

It may be well to say here that the application of the term 
" room plants " is in its widest sense, and meant to apply to 



762 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



outside window-boxes as well. Of course, where there is a 
greenhouse from which drafts can be made as required, there is 
no difficulty in keeping up a good display. In this chapter, 
however, it is assumed that the gardener is almost entirely 
dependent upon a sunny window at most to furnish the plants 
for the room. 

Source of Supply. — The source whence a plant is obtained 
has a most important bearing upon its future welfare, and 
particularly in the case of those foliage subjects which in a state 
of nature require a hot, moist temperature, and whose sur- 
roundings have as nearly as possible to be imitated when they 
are grown artificially here. Despite the fact, however, that many 
of our finest foliage room plants are natives of warmer climes, 
they are sufficiently accommodating to live amidst very different 
surroundings if they are but intelligently treated. First, then, it 
must be urged upon the enthusiast to " beware of the seller " ; 
for though a plant may look the picture of health and con- 
dition when delivered, a very few days — nay, hours — may be 
sufficient to seal its doom. The travelling hawker is always to 
be avoided. The plants he has for disposal have been grown 
on by a method to fit them for quick sale, and their lives are 
most ephemeral. Indiarubber plants, Palms, Fatsias, and 
numberless Ferns are raised in large quantities to supply the 
markets, and such are about the worst that can be pur- 
chased if a long life is desired. To get the best possible 
results with Palms and such like they should be purchased 
from a trustworthy nurseryman or florist who has prepared the 
plants for the treatment they are likely to undergo. They should 
also be purchased in late spring or summer: never in winter or 
autumn. 

Frost and Draught. — These are the most powerful enemies 
against which the cultivator of room plants has to contend. A 
window is the most suitable position for plants generally in 
the daytime, as there they get a maximum of light and sun- 
shine. At night, in winter, the case is different : the window 
then becomes nothing less than a death-trap. A good plan is 
to have at hand a couple of wire stands, on to which the 
plants could be moved at night, and these should be placed in 
the centre of the room, or else in a corner where draughts 
are not prevalent at night, and, if necessary, further surrounded 
by a temporary screen of stout tiffany, which can easily be ■ 
mounted upon a roughly-constructed frame. By this means the 
dangers from frost are considerably reduced, and the plants can 
easily be returned to their quarters in the window in the 
morning. Some further protection may be necessary in the case 
of Palms, and this will be referred to when dealing specifically 
with these plants. 



ON ROOM PLANTS. 



Ventilation. — Air is as necessary to the well-being of a plant 
as it is to ourselves, and rooms should therefore be carefully 
ventilated on suitable occasions. In winter time the top sash 
may be allowed down in living rooms, say a couple of inches, 
this space being filled by a piece of close wire gauze-like 
material ; this may be so arranged that at any time the window 
may be at once closed. The door should not be left open at 
the same time as the window, or the result will be disastrous 
to plant life, especially in winter and spring, when cold and 
drying winds are prevalent. Plants, too, which are used for hall 
decoration must also be guarded against frost and draught. 

Dust on the foliage clogs the breathing pores. Where, there- 
fore Palms, Euryas, Aspidistras, Indiarubber plants, and similar 
stout-textured foliage subjects are employed in rooms, they should 
be carefully kept clean of dust and dirt, and the best means ot 
doing this is with a piece of sponge and some soft lukewarm 
water. This should be done twice a vveek, or oftener in the case 
of very dusty apartments. 

Drainage.- — -The importance of good drainage in the case of 
pot- or box-plants can hardly be over-estimated. An imperfectly- 
drained pot soon causes the best and freest of soils to sour, 
and quickly destroys the most promising of plants. Especial 
care must be given to the pieces covering the hole or holes of 
the pot or box. The other drainage material must be so 
arranged that the water passes freely through. The amount of 
drainage, and even the kind employed, will vary a little with the 
class of plant. As a rule, pieces of old pots and broken or 
whole oyster shells are amongst the best for plants in general. 
Cactuses require special treatment in the matter of potting, and 
this will be dealt with when they are being considered, and 
more fully in the chapter devoted to those and their allies. 

Potting, though a very necessary operation when plants have 
amply filled the root-space at command, is nevertheless one which 
is often overdone to the certain detriment of the plant. A 
check is certain to result if it is not carefully performed ; 
w^hile not infrequently the plant succumbs. Before a plant can 
be properly potted, its requirements must be known to a nicety, 
for whereas in the majority of cases crowded root-space might 
be taken as an almost certain indication of the need of a 
shift, there are plants which succeed better the less they are 
interfered with, so long as they receive some assistance by 
means of top-dressings or stimulants. i\ll classes of room plants 
are not equally affected, and therefore no hard-and-fast rule 
can be laid down. Palms yield the best results when they 
are not given too much room ; and a frequent cause of failure 
is shifting them too frequently. The roots must be the absolute 
guide to repotting. So long as these are not too crowded, 



764 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the drainage is ample, and the plant exhibits a healthy appear- 
ance, it should not be repotted. And so it is with many other 
of the foliage plants used for room decoration — Aspidistras 
in particular. Then the manner of potting will vary with the 
class of plant : Chr)'santhemums, for instance, require the compost 
tightly rammed, and so also do Palms. As a general rule, hard- 
wooded plants, like Heaths, require to be more firmly potted 
than soft-wooded ones, like Pelargoniums. Further remarks upon 
the manner of potting such plants will be found in the chapters 
devoted to Stove and Greenhouse Plants, 

Palms are, we are told in an excellent work on the propagation 
and cultivation of Palms, by Dr. Udo Dammer, best potted so 
that the soil slopes gradually from the side down to the centre. 
By this means moisture is best conveyed to the centre of the 
ball of earth, which otherwise frequently remains dr}-, to the 
detriment of the coots. This should be well borne in mind 
when repotting. 

Again, in potting a plant, the condition of the soil will have 
to be taken into consideration. If it is too dry, repotting must 
not be undertaken. The soil must be moist without being wet. 
The pots must also be thoroughly clean and dry. Xo plant 
should be placed in a wet or a dirty pot. Where, therefore, 
washing has been resorted to, or new pots have been soaked, as 
thev should be, thev must be thorousfhlv dried before being 
used. Spring may safely be put down as the best time for 
repotting, as then it is that roots are most active. 

AVatering. — The best water for any purpose is pure rain 
water, but even this should never be applied of a less tempera- 
ture than that of the room in which the plants are for the time 
located. Cold tap water should neve?- be used. The next best 
thing to rain water is that from a stream or well. In towns, of 
course, this latter source of supply is not available, and the 
cultivator must then use tap- or pump-water. In any case, 
whether from streams, springs, or tap, it should be ^kept in a 
large receptacle where the sun can shine upon it, and be 
brought to the requisite temperature by the addition of hot 
water, if necessary. The reason that rain water is preferable is 
that it usually contains (it may be in very small quantities) 
some chemical substance like ammonia, as well as certain gases 
dissolved in it, which tend to liberate soil constituents that are 
needful for the sustenance of plant-life. 

A fairly good method of telling if water is needed is to strike 
the pot with the knuckles, and if a clear ringing sound is 
emitted, it may usually be assumed that water is needful, although 
sometimes the dull, heavy sound one connects with a plant 
having a sufficiency of water is given off if the roots are amply 
filling the space at their disposal. Palms are somewhat difficult 
subjects for the majority of amateurs to judge of, but if the 



ON ROOM PLANTS. 



foliage of the stout-textured species be flaccid and readily rolled, 
especially towards the apex, water is then badly needed. The 
rough-and-ready method previously suggested holds good least of 
all with Palms, for, as already has been stated, they should be 
restricted as regards root-room, and, therefore, even if dry, the 
ringing sound is less likely to be given off. 

The best time for watering depends upon the season : in the 
winter, morning should be selected, so long as there is no 
danger of frosts ; while even in summer, if the cultivator does 
not mind getting up early, morning is the best time, so long as 
it is done before the sun gets too pow^erful ; otherwise his 
operation had better be deferred until the evening. In any case 
merely wetting the top soil is not of the slightest use — indeed 
harmful, as it cakes the surface — the plant should have a good 
soaking. Certain species may also be kept in splendid condition 
by standing them frequently in pans of water, and in summer 
giving plenty of water to the foliage as well, taking care that the 
plants are not placed w^here the sun's rays would cause scorching. 

Certain plants — Cactuses, for instance — require special treatment 
as regards watering, and this will be mentioned under their 
respective heads. 

Soils. — Room plants are drawn from a variety of genera dis- 
tributed over a wide geographical area, therefore the soils neces- 
sarily differ somewhat with individual plants. Most plants, how- 
ever, that will be dealt with here may be grown successfully in a 
combination of fibrous loam, leaf-soil, and sand. Two parts of 
the first-named to one part of the others will be about the 
correct proportions. Exceptions are the Cactuses, when to 
fibrous loam and sand should be added broken brick rubble to 
the extent of nearly one-half ; and some of the hard-wooded 
plants like Heaths, when peat may replace the leaf-soil, though 
it is not absolutely necessary, as has often been proved. For 
Ferns, there should be a preponderance of peat in the compost. 
Potting soils may be bought ready mixed in those cases w^here 
no convenience exists for storing them on the premises. This 
is the better plan to adopt. In most gardens, however, there 
would be room, say, for providing a supply of leaf-soil. Leaves 
of any kind can be thrown into a heap, but the best soil is 
that prepared from the leaves of Oak and Elm, and such-like 
forest trees. 

Stimulants.— All plants require assistance from time to time 
in order to allow of their perfecting their growth, and of 
recuperating those energies exhausted in bringing forth their 
crop of flowers, fruit, or foliage. Taken all round, the most 
convenient for the general run of gardeners who go in for 
po.t-plants are the "artificials." Where, however, the con- 
veniences exist, there should always be kept a tub of soot-w^ater 



766 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



(made by sinking a bag of soot in any large tub) and some 
liquid cow-manure. These two manures are most useful in giving 
colour to such foliage plants as Palms, Aspidistras, and the like. 
This is best applied in spring when activity is being resumed 
after the winter rest. With flowering plants the stimulant is of 
most service when applied at flowering time, and just prior 
thereto. 

Insect and Other Pests. — These are not numerous, and are 
readily got rid of if measures are taken before the pests have a 
chance to establish themselves. Greenfly are amongst the most 
troublesome ; but occasionally Red-Spider, Scale, and Mealy Bug 
are introduced. In the case of Greenfly, it is impossible to 
fumigate, as in a greenhouse. For the average householder, hot 
water applied at about i4odeg. will be the insecticide readiest 
to hand. It should be applied with a syringe. In the case of 
Cactuses, these should be laid upon their sides during the 
operation. 

Foliagp: Plants. — First on the list of this most useful section 
are the Palms. To be successful with Palms in an unheated 
structure, it is necessary to be careful as to the source of supply, 
to select only those species and varieties which have proved their 
worth, and to purchase them at the proper season. 

Of the species best suited to room decoration the following 
may be named : Hoivea Forsteriaiia {Keiitia Forsteria?ia), 




Fig. 505. — LiviSTONA chinensis. 



Livistona chinensis {LataJtia borbonica) (Fig. 505), Trachy- 
carpiis excelsiis {Chamcsrops excelsa), Trachy carpus Fortunei 
{ChamcErops Fortunei)^ Rhapis flabelliformis^ Fhoefiix riipicola, 
Fhoenix reclinata^ Cocos Weddeliana^ C. plumosa {^Leopoldinia 



ON ROOM PLANTS. 



767 




Fig. 506. — JrB^A spectabilts. 



piilchrd)^ ArchoritophcEfiix Cunninghainiana {Seaforthia elegans ; 
Ptychosperma Cumiifighamiana)^ Sahal Adansonii^ S. Blackburn- 
iana (S. timbraculifera)^ 



Jubcea spectabilis (Fig. 506), 
Nan?iorhops KiUhieana, 
and most of the Arecas. 
One frequently 
sees the dwarf and 
graceful Geonoma 
gracilis in rooms, 
butitis ill-adapted 
for such a pur- 
pose, and had 
better be omitted 
from the list. 

The window 
offers the best 
position for growing them, 
as Palms are lovers of light. 
Here they will succeed if 
bought in summer, as they 
should be, and treated 
on the lines elsewhere 
laid down, as regards watering and until severe frosts are 
expected. They should then be removed from the window each 

evening, and 
be placed in 
a part of 
the room out 
of the reach 
of frosts. In 
addition to 
the covering 
already 
noted, it may 
be advisable 
to enclose 
the pots in a 
warm frost- 
proof mate- 
rial like felt.. 

Next to 
Palms, the 
Aspidistras 
are the most 
popular foli- 
age plants. A. liLrida, A. /. variegata, and A. elatior (Fig. 507) 
are the kinds used for room decoration, and there are no 




Fig. 507. — Aspidistra elatior. 



768 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



better plants for the purpose, as they will resist the noxious 
fumes of gas. Fatsia japotiica {Aralia Sieboldii) rs robust of con- 
stitution and decorative to a degree, and ought not to be for- 
gotten. It bears large, digitate, shining green leaves, while 
there are two varieties with white or yellow variegation, even 
more decorative. No special treatment is necessary beyond 
keeping them freely watered from late spring until late summer, 
and affording them a shady position. 

The genus Cordyline also furnishes several good plants for 
rooms, C. australis and C. ifidivisa (Fig. 508) being the best. 



sun. An abundance of water in the growing season, and a 
loamy soil, are what it likes. Other plants whose merits are 
but imperfectly known are Eii7'ya japonica^ and its variegated 
variety. It is an evergreen shrub, and one delighting in a 
peat soil. Bold of habit, and stout-textured as to foliage, these 
Euryas are most useful and long-suffering to a degree. Their 
chief enemy is dust. One hears so much of the merits of 
Grevillea 7'obiista^ and sees it so often recommended, that 
perhaps it would be best to state at once that no more 
unsuitable plant for rooms could be named, although there 




Ficus elastica (India- 
rubber Plant) is one 
of the most popular 
room plants in culti- 
vation. The only 
drawback to the 
plant is the habit it 
has, for no apparent 
reason, of shedding 
its lower leaves, when 
it is far from present- 
able. Sometimes, 
however, this arises 
from errors in treat- 
ment — over - water- 
ing, dust, draughts, a 
very foul atmosphere, 
and not providing it 
with a light position. 



Fig. 508.— Cordyline indivisa. 



Mar ant a inajo?- 
(Fig. 509) is a dis- 
tinct-looking plant 
that deserves to be 
recorded. It is easily 
managed if given a 
position where it 
does not get the 
direct rays of the 



ON ROOM PLANTS. 



769 



is no denying its decorative qualities. The exact antithesis of 
this is, however, to be found in the leathery Phormiuiu tenax^ 
and its equally 
desirable and 
more effective 
variegated forms. 
It has long, 
sword - shaped 
leaves, and is 
popularly known 
as the New 
Zealand Flax. 

Where a very 
graceful plant is 
required, Ophi- 
opogoii Jaburan 
variegata (Fig. 
510) may be 
strongly recom- 
mended. The 
foliage is narrow, 
but neatly varie- 
gated, and very 
tough. In sum- 
mer this plant 
should be well 
syringed over- 
head with rain- 
watei. A com- 
paratively little- 
known plant. 
This is not 
entirely 
foliage, 
this is 
its chief attrac- 
tion. 

Pretty window 

and table plants are several species of Araucaria, a genus of 
Conifers to which the formidable-looking Monkey Puzzle belongs. 
A. excelsa (Fig. 511) is very pretty in a young state, the • 
neat habit and tender green combining to make it very attractive. 
It is evergreen. A fitting companion for this last-named for 
•a dinner-table is the graceful variegated Reed {Carex japonica 
variegata)^ its grass-like foliage and pretty habit entitling it to 
■consideration. 

Uncommon and very serviceable plants are several species of 
Dasylirion. Correctly speaking these liliaceous plants should 

3 D 



grown 
for its 
although 




Fig. 509. — ^lARANTA ilAJOR. 



770 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



be classed among the flowering subjects ; but their leaves being 
their chief attraction they are for that reason referred to here. 
The leaves are long, narrow, and drooping. D. acrotrichum and 
D. glaucophyllwn latifolium are two good kinds. They are 
evergreen, another feature which enhances their value. Still 
keeping to liliaceous plants we have some most suitable kinds 
in the Agaves and Yuccas. Their foliage is capable of with- 
standing a lot of ill-treatment if the plants are but potted up 



Fig. 510. — Ophiopogon Jaburan variegata. 



in some good loam and leaf-mould, and the drainage is ample. 
Broken bricks, as used for the Cactuses, will suit very well. Other 
desirable near allies are Yucca filamentosa aureo-variegata, 
Y. aloifolia^ Agave americana (Fig. 512) and its variety variegata^ 
and A. univittata. These plants like plenty of water during 
late spring and summer, but in winter a very little will suffice. 
A light position outside suits them best in summer. 



ON ROOM PLANTS. 



771 



Variegated plants are always appreciated, especially if they are 
sufficiently robust to withstand the winter in an ordinary living- 
room. For this reason Chlorophytiini elatum variegahim (better 
known perhaps as Anthericum variegatti77i and Phalanghim argenteo- 
liiieare) must not be forgotten. It is a near relative of the 
St. Bruno and the St. Bernard Lilies. The grass-like foliage is 
striped and margined with white, and the habit of the plant is 
graceful in the extreme. It may readily be- grown in a window, 
if during very severe weather it is removed at night out of the 
reach of frost. The drainage must be good, as during the 
growing season plenty 
of water is necessary ; 
but in winter it must 
be kept upon the dry 
side. Propagated 
readily by division in 
spring. 

Popular subjects 
with those who make 
room plants a speci- 
ality are Cyperus 
alter?iifolius^ and ■ its 
variegated form. They 
are very decorative, 
too, for the dinner- 
table. The leaves 
are long and narrow, 
and arranged in the 
form of an umbel, 
which gives the plants 
an uncommon ap- 
pearance. They look 
like very graceful 
Palms : indeed by 
some they are popu- 
larly known as Um- 
brella Palms. They 
are natives of Aus- 
tralia and about 2ft. in height; they are shade-lovers. Unfor- 
tunately they are not as hardy as some of the subjects already 
enumerated. 

It is scarcely amongst a genus of stove plants that one 
would look generally for a good room or window subject, yet 
it has already been shown that in Ficus elastica we have a 
plant sufficiently accommodating to be kept in good health in 
our rooms, if but a little care is exercised. And so it is with 
several of the Screw Pines {Fanda?ius), and particularly so with 
F. Candelabrum variegatiis, whose long, narrow, gracefully 

3 D 2 




Fig. 511. — Araucaria excelsa. 



772 



THE 



BOOK OF 



GARDEXIXG. 




Fig. ;i2. — Agave americaxa. 



drooping strap-like leaves are banded with pure white (Fig. 
-12, ). an^d armed with spines of a similar colour. Plenty of water 

in summer and ver\' little 
* in the winter, and a good 
rich soil, are the conditions 
under which these plants 
will flourish in our homes. 
There are several 
Eulalias with varie- 
gated foHa2:e which 
make most graceful 
pot-plants, and which 
may be grown with- 
out much trouble. 
* £. japo?iica foliis- 
variegata is one of 
the best. These 
plants should have 
plenty of water in 
summer. 

To the above fairly long list of plants which are chiefly 
grown for their foliage, we might well add such subjects as Rex 
Bes^onias and the 
lovely Coleus : but, 
ornamental as these 
undoubtedly are, 
they require some- 
thino; more than an 

* — 

ordinary window to 
increase the stock, 
and for details as to 
their propagation the 
reader is referred to 
the Chapter On 
Beddins Plants."" 
There are a number 
of very useful Coni- 
fers which misht be 
utilised even for in- 
door decoration, but 
they are certainly 
more at home in 
rhe outside window 
boxes, and they will 
be dealt with later 
in that connection. 

Ferns, again, constitute some of the hardiest and most useful 
window and room plants that can be named. 




Fig 513. — Paxdaxus Caxdzlaesoi vasjegatus. 



ON ROOM PLANTS. 



773 



Flowering Plants. 

Under this somewhat comprehensive heading, it is purposed 
to describe some of the most popular room plants. It is not 
of course the place to deal with details of cultivation here, as 
most of the subjects belong to one or other of the sections 
into which the work is divided. All that will be attempted 
will be the enumeration of certain plants which, over a series 
of years, have proved their worth for the purpose in hand — 
Cactuses, flowering shrubs, select annuals, striking perennials. 
In passing along, any of them which require treatment some- 
what different from that ordinarily necessary for keeping them 
in good health and condition will be noticed. 

Cactuses occupy a very prominent position in the list of floral 
subjects that may be grown in windows indoors ; while they are 
no less re- 
markable for 
their fantastic 
shapes and 
spiny stems. 
There is 
nothing diffi- 
cult about the 
culture of a 
very large num- 
ber, though 
popularly there 
is supposed to 
be. The writer 
has grown 
these plants in 
windows for 
years, and 
never fails to 
flower them as 
the seasons 
come round. 
In the case 
of Phyllocactus 
he has had 
as many as 
twenty - five 
blossoms upon 
a single plant, 

which through- ^ig. 514. — Garden Variety of Phyllocactus. . 
out the winter 

had no more shelter than an ordinary window in a living 
room afforded. Fig. 514 illustrates a free-flowering Phyllocactus^ 




774 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



which was 
Nursery, and 



originally obtained from the famous 
is therefore a somewhat historic plant. 

The kinds to 



Loddiges 




Fig. 



5 1 5 . — EcHiNOPsis 
Pentlandi. 



be men- 
tioned here all require 
practically similar treatment 
— a loamy soil, plenty 
of drainage material, the 
sunniest spot that can be 
found, and the withholding 
of water from late autumn 
until April. The genus 
Cereiis will furnish a very 
large number of suitable 
species and varieties, of 
which the following are the best : 
C. fla^elliformis (Rat's Tail Cactus), 
with its pretty pinkish stems and 
rose-coloured flowers, a capital sub- 
ject for a hanging-basket for a 
south window ; C. Berlandieri^ 
purple, delicately scented ; C. ccespi- 
tosiis^ bright rose ; C. pentalophiis 
{C. Ieptacanth2is)^ rose; C. Blankii^ 
deep pink, suffused with crimson ; 
and C. poly acanthus^ deep red, free, 
to the Hedgehog Cactuses {Echinocactiis)^ of which 
the spines are so formidable, we find several species well 
adapted for windows- — E. gib- 
bosiis (white stems, beset with 
large needle-like spines), and 
E. hexcEdrophorus (white and 
pink, with swollen tubercles). 
Other genera furnishing some 
very desirable kinds are 
Echinopsis, MainmiUa?'ia, and 
Phyllocactiis. In the first- 
named the best are E. Pent- 
landi (red) (Fig. 515), and 
its varieties; E. Eyriesii 
(w^hite), emitting a nice frag- 
rance ; and E. oxygona, white 
at first, but afterwards becom- 
ing pinkish. Mammillarias are 
very wonderful, even amongst 
Cactuses, combining, as they 
sometimes do, attractive 
spines with pretty flowers and showy berries. M. bicolor, M. gracilis, 
M. sangimtea (Fig. 516), and M. elongata, are all good. The 



Turning 




Fig. 



516. — Mammillaria 
sanguine a. 



ON ROOM PLANTS. 



775 



Phyllocactuses are chiefly remarkable for their large flowers, many 
of them sweetly scented. By way of stimulant, soot-water will be 
found safe and efficient Occasionally Cactuses will be attacked 
by that pest of plant-houses, Mealy-bug. When this is the case, 
a camel-hair brush should be dipped into a bottle containing 
methylated spirit, and the insects just lightly brushed with this. 
In late summer it is an excellent practice to stand window 
Cactuses in the hottest part of the garden to ripen their growth, 
and when insect pests appear to turn the plants upon their 
sides, and syringe them with hot water. For fuller particulars, 
see the Chapter "On Cacti and Other Succulents." 

Bulbs and tubers need very little recommendation to the 
window-gardener : they constitute, in fact, his sheet-anchor in the 
dullest days. Crocuses, Hyacinths, Scillas (Squills), Snowdrops, 
Daffodils, and other Narcissi, are all indispensable. The best 
way to grow them is to pot them up as soon as procurable in 
autumn, the earlier. the better, and then plunge them outside in 
cocoanut fibre, transferring them to their quarters when the roots 
have been formed, and top-growth is in evidence. 

One of the finest room plants is the Chinese Sacred Lily, which 
may be grown in the showy basins sold for the purpose, and as 
described under " Hardy Bulbs and Tubers." Crocuses, again, 
may be grown in shallow saucers, partly filled with water ; and 
Hyacinths in the glasses sold for the purpose. To be thoroughly 
successful with this method of culture the vessels should 
for a time be stood in a cupboard, or elsewhere, that light may 
be kept from them until the roots are thoroughly active. Bulbs 
so treated are not, however, of any service next season. Solomon's 
Seal {Polygonatian miiltifloriuii) makes a most effective room plant. 
It should be potted up in late autumn, plunged in cocoanut fibre 
outside until growth is active, watered freely, and after flowering 
returned to the border. 

Quite different from the bulbs enumerated above is the 
Scarborough Lily ( Valloia purpurea). This is an ideal window- 
plant, but not often grown to perfection, as its requirements are 
but imperfectly understood. Chief among these are good 
drainage, plenty of water when starting into growth, to be left 
without repotting for three or four years, and a sunny position. 
The leaves, too, which are of good substance, accumulate a 
lot of dust ; they should therefore be sponged, as recom- 
mended for certain foliage plants. The bulbs are susceptible 
to frosts, and it is therefore safer to remove the pots containing 
them from the window in frosty weather. 

Ixias and Sparaxis are graceful bulbs all too seldom employed 
as window subjects, though eminently fitted for such a phase of 
culture. They should be potted in autumn, and when they 
have ripened their foliage be allowed a rest for a few weeks 
prior to being repotted. They require no coddling, and they 



776 



THE BOOK 



OF GARDENING. 



grown 



in a cool airy room, in which they will blossom 



are best 
in late spring. 

All the Alliums make pretty little window-plants, though the 
scent of them is unpleasant. A. neapoliianum (white), A. azurewn 
(blue), and A. Macnabianum (bright pink) are good kinds to 
employ. They should be potted up in September and October. 
Anoviatheca criienta is an uncommon bulb, under ift. high, that 
looks well when numerously planted. The bright crimson flowers 
and graceful, grassy foliage make a very pretty whole. Freesias 
should always be grown, as they are beautifully white, and very 
fragrant. F. refracta alba is the best kind to employ. This 
should be potted in late summer, and afterwards plunged until 
growth has made a good start. Beyond keeping them moist no 
further treatment is required. The foliage must, however, be 
allowed to mature, and then the bulbs may be separated from 
the soil and stored in bags until potting time. 

Erythroniums also make good 
pot-plants, and are desirable alike 
for their flowers and foliage. They 
should be potted in summer. De- 
cided acquisitions when grown as 



grown 

window-plants are the Lachenalias, 
as they are very uncommon as to 
flower. Sand, loam, and leaf-mould 
in equal parts will grow them well. 
L. pendula makes an excellent 
basket-plant, while L. ti-icolor may be 
utilised for pots. Another distinct bulbous 
subject is Nerine sar?iiensis. The bulbs 
should be inserted as soon as they arrive, 
taking care to leave the top just above 
the soil. They like a fair amount of 
moisture when growing, but when at 
rest the supply must be reduced. There 
is a beautiful variety known as I\\ Fothe?'- 
gilli {ci(?'i'ifoIia) major, which is of a 
rich scarlet. ]^Iany fail with these bulbs 
as window-plants by disturbing them 
too often. 

Tuberoses are always appreciated, and 
they can be grown in windows. Early 
in the year three bulbs should be planted in a well-drained 
6in. pot, using three parts sandy loam and one part leaf-mould. 
They should be plunged in cocoanut fibre, and drafted to the 
window when growth is made. The Pearl is an excellent variety. 
Tuberoses are not of anv use after flowerins;. 

Lilies {Liliuni) are perhaps the most appreciated of all plants 
grown for window decoration, as they combine beautiful and 




Fig. 



— LlLIU^I 
FLORUM. 



LOXGI- 



ON ROOM PLANTS. 



777 



often fragrant flowers with ease of culture. There are such a 
number adapted for pot culture, that it is impossible to 
enumerate them all. L. speciosiim and its varieties, Z. longifiorum 
(Fig. 517), L. auratiwi and its varieties, and L. Harris! are all 
suitable for pot-work. The soil should be two parts fibrous peat to 
one part each of peat and decayed manure, with plenty of sound and 
good drainage material. The pots should be plunged as advised 
for other bulbs, and when there is evidence of growth being 
active the plants should 
be given a place in the 
window. As they grow 
they should be liberally 
treated in the matter of 
watering, and receive a 
stimulant, either in the 
shape of a mulch (for 
which some gardeners 
leave ample room when 
potting) of loam and 
well-rotted manure, or one 
of the artificial manures 
so largely used for pot- 
plants. This treatment 
should be given until 
after flowering, when the 
stimulant must be with- 
held and the moisture 
reduced to allow the 
bulbs to ripen ; after 
this, they should be re- 
potted. 

Fritiflarias are seldom 
grown as pot-plants by 
amateurs, though most 
are admirably suited for 
such a mode of culture 
alike as regards their 
distinctness of flower and 
dwarf habit. Some beau- 
tifufly chequered flowers 
are found amongst the 
species and varieties 
available. F. Meleagris, 
F. aurea, and F. arme?ia 

are desirable kinds. The bulbs should be potted in autumn in 
leaf-mould, fibrous loam, and peat in equal parts, and then kept 
in a cold frame until the flower-buds are well advanced, when 
they may be housed. Still further variety in bulbs might be 




Fig. 518. — Gladiolus insignis. 



778 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



imparted by Montbretias, Scillas, the scarlet Schizostylis rocdnea, 
early-flowering Gladioli, like the charming G. insig?iis (Fig. 518), 
Watsonias, Zephyranthes, and the dwarf Iris species. 

Tuberous plants are almost as numerous as the bulbous ones, 
and they moreover include some of the best window-plants that 
can be named for furnishing plenty of flowers. Anemones like 
A. coronaria (both single and double) are easily grown and flowered 

by planting them in 
autumn in w^ell-drained 
' .J. , 1 \ >' ' pots or boxes, watering 

them sparingly until the 
spring, when the flowers 
are showing. 
After the leaves 
turn colour the 
tubers should be 
gradually rested, 
shaken out of 
the soil, dried, 
and then stored 
till next autumn. 

Tuberous Be- 
gonias (Fig. 519) 
are so well 
known as win- 
dow-plants that 
little need be 
said in their 
favour. They 
should be 
potted in 
spring 
in equal 
parts fibry 
loam,leaf- 
mould, 

Fig. 519.— Begonia Miss Griffith. and sand, 

providing 

efficient drainage, as they are thirsty plants when growing. 
When the flower-stems appear, the plants should be assisted with 
weak manure-water : in fact, this may continue periodically until 
the flowering season is past, when watering generally must be 
gradually withheld as the ripening process is complete. The 
tubers should then be stored in a frost-proof cellar, keeping 
them in the pots until required to start them the next 
season. 

Cyclamens of the more robust kinds should be included in a 
collection of window-plants, as they are grown very readily, and 





ON ROOM PLANTS. 



779 



are cheap at first cost. C. Coum, C. europceiim, C. hedercefolium 
(C. repanduni)^ and C. Atkinsii are very desirable sorts. They 
should be potted up carefully in September, using two parts leaf- 
mould to one part each of silver -sand and fibrous loam, and 
leaving the tops of the corms well above the soil. Water care- 
fully until blossoms show, when give weak liquid manure in 
addition. After flowering, stand them outside in a shady 
position, and repot next September. If carefully used, good 
corms will last for years. Another useful little pot-plant is 
Eranthis Jiy emails^ which may be grown by even the most in- 
experienced of window-gardeners, as it requires neither special 
soil nor any particular attention. 

From time immemorial Pelargoniums (commonly called 
Geraniums) have been popular. There are now some lovely 
Zonals that lend themselves to this phase of gardening. Show 
and Fancy, as well as the soft-hued and varied Ivy-leaved 
section. The last-named are especially suited for basket-plants, 
to be described later. All the Pelargoniums do well in a south 
window, and will blossom most abundantly in their season. The 
flowers should be removed as soon as they are faded, when 
others will quickly be produced over a long season. Fuchsias 
are still amongst the best of plants for window gardeners, and 
the varieties upon the market are ahead of the old - time kinds 
which did duty. The Pelargoniums require to be kept on the 
dry side in winter ; but Fuchsias should have a little water in 
the dull season. For fuller details, see the Chapter "On Bedding 
Plants." 

Musk is always appreciated as a window-plant on account of 
the grateful perfume it emits. Harrison's Musk should be selected 
as well as the old-fashioned kind. These are best for partially 
shaded positions. Musks are moisture-loving subjects. Other 
sweet-scented plants are the Stocks, which are readily raised from 
seed. 

Asters are largely employed to give bright colour in autumn ; 
but many are pure white and quite Chrysanthemum-like in 
appearance. The Comet is a singularly beautiful strain, and 
should always be included. Then there are The Bride and the 
dwarf-growing Victorias. 

Blue flowers are by no means numerous outside bulbous 
subjects, and therefore a pot or two of Forget-me-Nots {Myosofis) 
should be welcome to many in spring. They should be raised 
from seed sown in May, when plants thus obtained will blossom 
early the next season. 

There are quite a number of Primulas to select from, and 
window gardeners will do well to note such kinds as the pretty 
and floriferous F. obconica, though this distinct species (Fig. 520) 
is objected to by many on account of the irritation of the 
skin often set up by touching the leaves. This, however, 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



varies with the individual, those with very sensitive skins 
naturally being the greatest sufferers. More robust than 
obconica are kinds like P. sikkimensis, P. denticiilata 
cashmeriana, and P. rosea, all of which may be grown from 

seed, and are best 
afforded a shady position 
and a rich loamy soil. 
Alpine Auriculas are 
suitable, and their cul- 
ture does not entail any- 
more than care in 
matter of watering, 




thing 
the 




Fig. 



;2o. 



hardy annuals 



and their subsequent re- 
moval to a shady border 
after their period of 
beauty is past. 

Cinerarias are some- 
times used for display, 
but showy though they 
are they cannot be re- 
commended on account 
of the fondness for them 
of the objectionable 
Greenfly. The Common 
Christmas Rose {Helle- 
boriis niger) may be 
potted up for the win- 
dow in early autumn 
from the border, and 
returned thereto in 
late spring, employing 
fresh plants each year. 
Those which have been 
kept indoors soon re- 
cuperate when planted 
outside. 

Allusion has already 
been made to several of 
the 
more, 



-Primula obconica. 

best known half- 
but there are many more, as well as a host 
of hardy ones, which require nothing beyond a judicious thinning 
as the seedlings begin to grow. All the best will be found 
described in the Chapter dealing with " Annuals and Biennials." 

Amongst other subjects diversified as to form and colour of 
flower, some of the best and easiest to grow are : Deiitzia 
gracilis, with its graceful habit and pretty white flowers. 
Hydrangea hortensis. Cytisus racemosiis, an evergreen with bright 
yellow spikes of flowers ; this latter requires to be cut back 



ON ROOM PLANTS. 



781 



after flowering. Coronilla glauca is another pretty evergreen, with 
yellow flowers: the shoots of this should be pinched in spring, 
and a mixture of loam and peat should be used as compost. 
The majority of these and similar subjects are best ,o;iven a 
sheltered position outdoors in summer. The well-known Dicentra 
{Bielyfra) spedabilis (Fig. 521), Avith its rosy-pink flowers, must not 
be omitted from any collection of room plants. It should be 
potted up from ^ 
theopen - .JM^ 

ground in 
November, and 
to get the best 
results fresh 
batches should 
be employed 
each season. 
As tilde {Spi- 
rced) japonica 
is another old 
favourite, re- 
quiring prac- 
tically similar 
treatment ; it 
likes plenty 
of moisture 



when growing. 
Unco m m o n 
but beautiful 
subjects for 
windows are 
Fra?icoa ra- 

mosa (Bridal Wreath) and F. appeiidiculata. Their long flower- 
stems are crowded with blossoms in late summer if they receive 
plenty of water when growing, and a little help from artificial 
manure when about to blossom. Potting is best done in April. 

A list of flowering plants might loe extended almost 
indefinitely, and all that has been aimed at here is to give a 
selection of well-tried subjects, leaving the individual to 
experiment further for himself. 




Fig. 521. — DiCEXTRA (Dielytra) spectabilis. 



Ferns. 

The kinds available for use as pot-plants for indoor decoration 
are fairly numerous, but care must be taken in their selection, or 
disappointment will ensue. ^Maidenhair Ferns, beautiful as they 
undoubtedly are, cannot be recommended as room plants. The 
genus Pteris furnishes many kinds suitable for the purpose under 
consideration, and some of them are amongst the finest to be 
found in the large and varied order. P. cretica albo-lhieata is a 



782 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



most distinct variety, with a white band centreing each leaflet 
(Fig. 522). Pteris quadriia argyrea {P. argyrea of some) 

is another very deco- 
rative variegated Fern, 
having a broader band 
of white than that in 
the species previously 
noted. Pteris serrulata 
is a favourite species, 
though very variable. 
It is quite one of the 
most robust, and is 
therefore largely grown 
for market purposes. 
The crested forms of 
it are even more highly 
esteemed than the 
typical plant. 

To the genus 
Aspleiihim we are 
indebted for three or 
four species right in 
the front rank of 
foliage plants for 
Fig. 522. — Pteris cretica albo-lineata. rooms. These are 

A. hulbiferum^ A. b. 

Fabianum^ and A. b. laxiiin. These all droop gracefully, 
and this, together with their habit of bearing young plants 
upon the fronds, renders them very distinctive. Though looking 
at its best when grown as a basket-plant, A. flaccidum makes a 
very pretty pot subject for a shady window. Pellcea i^Platyloma) 
rotundifolia is a greenhouse species which succeeds well by 
reason of the leathery texture of its fronds. The most robust 
of all Ferns for rooms are Cyrtomium falcatmn and its 
varieties Fortimei and caryoiideiim. Several native Ferns might 
be used with advantage : Scolopendrium vulgare (Common Harts- 
tongue), Lomaria Spica?if, Asplenium Tricho??iajies, and Polypodiiim 
vulgare cambricum. In the Chapter " On Ferns " further 
enumeration of suitable kinds for rooms will be found, while 
under " Basket Plants," in the present chapter, is enumerated 
a number of kinds especially suitable for that phase of culture. 

Basket= Plants. 

These call for special notice, as when properly used they lend 
pleasing variety to the plants grown about the house. Ivy- 
leaved Pelargoniums have much to recommend them ; but there 
are a number of other plants quite as suitable though not so 
well known. Take the Campanulas ; these are a host in 




ON ROOM PLANTS. 



themselves. None are prettier or more effective than C. isophylla 
(blue) and C. i. alba (white), though C. fragilis runs them close, 
with its graceful habit and pretty pale blue flowers. Lysimachia 
Nummularia (Creeping Jenny) and its variegated form are 
also excellent so grown — hardy to a degree, free, and decorative 
alike as to flowers and foliage. Ivies of sorts, but especially 
the variegated kinds, are most essential, as they can be 
utilised for outdoor baskets the year through. Variegated 
Stonecrops (Sedums), Zebrina pefzdula (more familiarly known as 
Tradescantia zebrina)^ the common Musk, Isolepis gracilis^ Saxifraga 
sarmentosa, the time-honoured Kenilworth Ivy {^Linaria Cyniba- 
laria)^ whose delicately-beautiful lilac flowers frequently adorn 
old walls, and Othonna crassifoUa, a very distinct plant, are 
some few others which occur readily to the mind. The last is a 
veritable sun-lover, and must be provided for accordingly, or its 
yellow blossoms are not likely to be produced with any freedom. 
Distinct, too, is the half-hardy Nierembergia gracilis^ whose 
showy flowers — a combination of white, purple, and yellow — are 
produced in summer. This plant delights in a light, rich soil. 
TropcBoliLin polyphyllum is another ideal basket-plant for a sunny 
aspect ; its flowers are yellow. A light, rich soil, and to be kept 
on the dry side, are the other conditions which conduce to the 
successful culture of this hardy plant. 

As already hinted, there are some species of Ferns which are 
admirably adapted for hanging-baskets ; such are Aspleniiim 
caiidatiwi, A. longissinium^ Davallia retiisa, Nephrolepis exaltata^ 
N. acuta, N. pliuna, and Woodwardia radicans. Many more 
are enumerated in the Chapter "On Ferns." None, however, are 
more beautiful than the species of Nephrolepis, which if planted 
in equal parts fibrous peat, chopped sphagnum, and sand, thrive 
splendidly. They like plenty of water in summer. 

Window = Boxes. 

In some few places — crowded cities and towns — these receptacles 
may be said to constitute the whole of the outside garden. 
They are, however, so intimately associated with rooms, that it 
has been thought advisable to treat them as a section of the 
present chapter. Usually the average window-box does not call 
for special mention on either the score of its novelty, variety, 
colour-scheme, or its general effect. There is too great a same- 
ness — highly suggestive of a whole terrace or street having been 
filled by contract. Why there should be such monotony shown 
passes comprehension when one considers the plants available 
for the purpose. 

Those who make a speciality of this form of gardening some- 
times have two sets of window-boxes, which are readily 
interchangeable as soon as one gets shabby. The plan has 
much to commend it, and often enables the amateur to get 



784 



THE BOOK OF GARDEXIXG. 



better results than are possible when onl}^ one box is available, 
and which the cultivator is forced to empty at each successive 
season, if he would have something to look at the year 
through. 

For early spring there is nothing better than bulbous plants, 
which are cheap, easily grown, and may be made exceedingly 
decorative by a judicious employment of colours. Crocuses, 
Scillas, Chionodoxas, Snowdrops, and Muscari may be arranged 
between dwarf, hardy shrubs, either planted in the soil or simply 
dropped in the box and covered with cocoanut fibre. Other 




Fig. 1523. — Laurustinus G-rown as a Window Plant. 

so-called bulbous subjects that may be tried are some of 
the dwarf species of Iris, all too seldom seen and not the 
easiest to grow in the outdoor garden proper by reason of the 
fact that they blossom so very early. 

Such dwarf shrubs as some of the variegated Conifers 
belonging to the genera Retinospo?-a^ Thuya, Ju?iipe?'us, Cfvp- 
to??ieria, and the like would impart pleasing colour from October 
(by which time the majority of bulbs should be planted) through 
winter, and until the spring flowers are past their best. Other 



ox ROOM PLANTS 



shrubs belonging to different sections are Auaiba japoiiica^ 
MahoTiia {Be?'be?'is) Aquifolia, Eiio?iymus japoniais variegatus, 
the pretty Pernettya imic?'o?iafa, and Skimmia oblata. These are 
all excellent town plants, which is an additional recommenda- 
tion. Xor must the useful hardy Heaths be forgotten. 
E. vulgaris and its varieties, E. carnea^ and several others make 
pretty and compact window-box plants, and they will withstand 
a good clipping each season. Then there are the beautiful 
Laurustinus {^Viburnufn Tinus)^ Fig. 523, Laurel, Privet, and 
many others. This shrubby section is such an important one, 
and contains so many widely different kinds, that the planter 
must refer to the Chapter " On Trees and Shrubs for a more 
extended list and more details of culture. 

To hide the front of the box some trailing plants might be 
advantageously used. Many of the Ivies, Periwinkles ( Vinca), 
G7iaphaliiim lanatiim^ Creeping Jenny {Lysi??iachia), Toadflax 
{Linaria), Convolvulus major^ and Tropaeolum Fireball would 
depend gracefully ; or if something pretty and somewhat out of 
the common were required, Sweet Peas might be sown near the 
edge of the box — Cupid, for instance — and be allowed to fall 
over. The taller-growing varieties of Sweet Peas might also be 
similarly used. Even the few trailers enumerated are capable ot 
giving plenty of variety and affording some pleasing contrasts if 
but arranged with an eye to colour. 

Quite amongst the finest of plants for a sunny window-box are 
the Petunias. Good bushy plants of really strongly-constitutioned 
kinds should be selected and planted in summer, supporting 
them with neat little birch twigs. Amateurs who have not the 
necessary accommodation for raising their own plants in spring 
can purchase stocky specimens from any good nursery. Petunias 
like plenty of water in summer, and to be fed while in blossom 
with weak liquid manure. The double varieties are the most 
effective, and these are increased bv cuttins^s taken in late 
summer. Aubrietia deltoidea grceca should oftener be employed, 
as blue flowers are always appreciated. To the genus Armeria 
(Thrift) belong several capital window subjects if a light, rich 
soil be provided. They are pretty while in flower, and their 
foliage is refreshingly green in autumn and spring. 

A plant so well known in the borders as Alyssum saxatile 
should need but little recommendation, as its fragrant yellow 
blossoms are excellent when associated with those of other spring- 
flowering subjects — Aubrietias or Arabis, to go no further. Gypso- 
phila repens will add beauty to any box in which it finds a 
place : the minute white flowers and graceful habit combine to 
form a most pleasing whole. Saxifraga Aizoon, S. Wallacei, and 
S. Burseriana are all white-flowered Saxifrages, but they differ 
considerably in habit ; they are especially valuable on account 
of their earliness and hardiness. In the rock garden one frequently 



786 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



sees Draha represented, but it is not generally known that 
D. nivalis makes a pretty window-box subject if afforded a sunny 
position. 

Carnations, again, are flowers which are very seldom used 
for the purpose under discussion ; yet for sweetness of perfume 
and utility there are few to compare with them. Two or 
three of the more robust border varieties could be very well 
planted from pots in spring or from the open ground in autumn. 
These would make nice flowering plants by summer, while the 
foliage, even in the dullest weather, would look fresh and green, 
and the plants could be so arranged that they would not inter- 
fere with the bulbous subjects. These latter could be planted 
between the Carnations as well as at the back, in the case of 
a good-sized box. 




ASPLENIUM CAUDATUM. 




Cacti and other 
Succulents. 



F. ^l. Mark. 



The chief characteristics of succulent plants are their great 
diversity and peculiarity of form, and on this account alone they 
are worthy of cultivation, for they diifer so much in appear- 
ance from the general run of plants as to afford a complete 
change to the eye. But besides being peculiar, many are very 
ornamental and bear handsome flowers, and as such are worthy 
of being treated as something more than mere curiosities. 

Culture. — Provided a few essential conditions be observed, 
there are few plants that are more easily cultivated than succu- 
lents, or that require so little attention. The most important 
condition is that they should be provided with a house to them- 
selves. There are many plants of this class that may be culti- 
vated with a fair amount of success along with others requiring 
totally different conditions ; but the success so obtained is never 
equal to what can be done when they are grown alone. 

The house should be very light, airy, and well drained. The 
drainage is very important, as for a great part of the year the 
house will require to be kept dry, and at no time should water 
be allowed to remain on the floors. For this reason it is 
advisable that the flooring of the house be above the level of 
the surrounding ground ; it is also better, if space permit, for 
a division to be made, one part of the structure to be warm 
(with a temperature of from 55deg. to 65deg.) and the other 

3 E 2 



788 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

cool (from 45deg. to 55deg.), with as much sun-heat in both 
cases as the plants can get during summer. However, if this 
plan is not convenient, the majority of succulents may be grown 
in a temperature ranging from 5odeg. to 6odeg. in summer, 
and this may drop as low as 45deg. in winter. 

Most of the succulents inhabit tropical countries and grow in 
dry, arid regions, where they are baked up for a great part of 
the year, and during the other portion are subjected to 
torrential rains interspersed with bright sunshine, together with 
a very warm atmosphere, and this is especially the case with 
Cacti. It is during this period that they make their growth 
and flower. During the remainder of the season they are at 
rest and are undergoing a ripening process. To secure these 
conditions as near as possible under artificial treatment, the 
plants should be started into growth in the spring by giving 
copious waterings, and also syringing overhead during April, May, 
and June. Towards the end of the last-named month the supply 
should be gradually reduced, and but little given during the 
rest of the season, the plants being allowed to become almost 
dry ; while during the winter, unless any of the plants show 
signs of shrivelling, none at all is required. By reducing the 
water supply early the plants are well ripened and enabled to 
pass through our dull, damp winters. Without thorough ripening 
flowers cannot be obtained. No shade at all is required, but 
plenty of ventilation should be given during hot weather ; and 
excepting during the growing period the atmosphere of the 
house should be kept quite dry. 

All succulents should be grown in small pots. Even large 
plants require very little root-room. The soil should in nearly 
every case consist of good fibrous loam mixed with plenty of 
sharp silver -sand, broken bricks, and mortar rubbish ; and 
plenty of drainage should be given. 

Repotting is not often necessary ; in fact, provided the 
drainage is good, most of the succulents will do for several 
years in the same pot. When necessary, the operation should 
be performed in the spring, during April and May. 

Propagation is very simple, as there are scarcely any other 
plants that root so easily from cuttings. Many are easily raised 
from seed, others throw up suckers, and some may be 
propagated by leaf-cuttings. When propagated by suckers, it is 
advisable to let the cut portion dry well before inserting it in 
soil, which should be nearly dry, and have plenty of sand mixed 
with it. 

Insects are often troublesome in spite of the toughness of 
the plants, especially during the growing period, the worst being 
Scale, Mealy-bug, Greenfly, and Thrips. For the first two, 
paraffin and soft-soap may be used, as advised in the Chapter 
" On Greenhouse Plants " ; and for the latter two, syringing 



ON CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS. 



789 



with Fir-tree oil or tobacco-water will answer. Hot water may 
also be successfully employed, turning the pots on their sides 
when using the syringe. Water as hot as the hand can bear 
will not injure the plants. 

Having now given a brief outline of the treatment ot 
succulents, we will proceed to consider the chief genera and 
species as far as space will permit. 

•In the identification of plants of the various genera, the following 
"keys," given by W. Watson in his " Cactus Culture for Amateurs," 
will be found most helpful : 

Trihe I. — Calyx-iube produced 'beyond the Ovary. Stem covered with 

Tubercles, or Ribs, bearing Spines. 

1. Melocactus. Stem globose ; flowers in a dense cap-like head, com- 
posed of layers of bristly wool and slender spines, amongst which the small 
flowers are developed. The cap is persistent, and increases annually with the 
stem. 

2. Mammillaria (including Anhalonium). Stems short, usually globose, 
and covered with tubercles, or mammae, rarely ridged, the apex bearing spiny 
cushions ; flowers mostly in rings round the stem. 

3. Pelecyphora. Stem small, club-shaped ; tubercles in spiral rows, 
and flattened on the top, where are two rows of short scale-like spines. 

4. Leuchtenbergia. Stem naked at the base ; tubercles oa the upper 
part large, fleshy, elongated, three-angled, bearing at the apex a tuft of 
long, thin, bristle-like spines. 

5. ECHINOCACTUS. Stem short, ridged, spiny ; calyx-tube of the flower 
large, bell-shaped ; ovary and fruit scaly. 

6. DisoCACTUS. Stem short ; calyx-tube thin, the throat filled by the 
stamens ; ovary and fruit smooth. 

7. Cereus. Stem often long and erect, sometimes scandent ; branching, 
ridged, or angular ; flowers from the sides of the stem ; calyx-tube elongated 
and regular ; stamens free. 

8. Phyllocactus. Stem flattened, jointed, and notched; flowers from 
the sides, large, having long, thin tubes and a regular arrangement of the 
petals. 

9. Epiphyllitm. Stem flattened, jointed ; joints short ; flowers from the 
apices of the joints ; calyx-tube short ; petals irregular, almost bilabiate. 

Tribe II. — Calyx-tube not produced beyond the Ovary. Stem branching, 

jointed. 

10. Rhipsalis. Stem thin and rounded, angular or flattened, bearing 
tufts of hair when young ; flowers small ; petals spreading ; ovary smooth ; 
fruit a small pea-like berry. 

11. Opuntia. Stem jointed, joints broad and fleshy, or rounded; spines 
barbed ; flowers large ; fruit spinous, large, pear-like. 

12. Pereskia. Stem woody, spiny, branching freely ; leaves fleshy, large, 
persistent; flowers medium in size, in panicles on the ends of the branches. 

The above is a key to the genera on the plan of the most 
recent botanical arrangement, but for horticultural purposes it is 
necessary that the two genera, Echinopsis and Pilocereics^ should 
be kept up. They come next to the Cereiis, and are distinguished 
as follows : 

Echinopsis. Stem as in Echinocactus, but the flowers are produced low 
down from the side of the stem, and the flower-tube is long and curved. 

Pilocereus. Stem tall, columnar, bearing long silky hairs as well as 
spines ; flowers in a head on the top of the stem, rarely produced. 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Cacti. 

These are, without doubt, the most important of all the 
succulents, and also the most interesting. All have curious forms, 
and when grown in a collection have a very extraordinary effect. 
Many also bear handsome flowers of the most brilliant colours ; 
some are scented, only opening their flowers during the night, 
and others bear highly-coloured berries. Cacti are mostly 
furnished with spines, which in many cases are also ornamental ; 
but these are dangerous to handle, and it is necessary to wear 
gloves for the purpose. 

Culture. — All the previous remarks in this chapter apply to 
these plants, and when grown well and ripened during summer a 
good show of blossom can be obtained. Cacti may all be 
propagated by cuttings of the branches in 'a warm pit or house. 
Some {e.g., Echinocactus and Melocactus)^ however, do not have 
branches ; but cutting the apex of the plant will cause latent 
buds to push and grow, or to throw up suckers. Although the 
plants may be easily propagated from cuttings, some of the 
delicate kinds, which are apt to rot at the base, are best grafted 
on the roots of more robust ones {e.g., Cereus and Echinocactus) ; 
while the pendent species of Epiphyllums and Cereus may be 
grafted on the tall, erect stems of Pereskias, and are thus seen 
to better advantage. The grafting should be done whilst the 
plants are growing, and the grafts take readily provided they are 
properly joined, and not bound too tightly. Soft worsted should 
be used for binding. 

When Cacti are raised from seed, these require to be sown in 
the spring in shallow pans of loam with plenty of sand incor- 
porated, in a temperature of from 75deg. to 8odeg., and must 
be kept moist at first whilst growing. Seed may be ripened and 
saved on home-grown plants ; but to do this successfully it is 
necessary to fertilise the flowers artificially, using a soft camel- 
hair brush. Seedlings generally produce freer growth than plants 
raised from cuttings, but are slower growing, or, rather, take 
longer to form a good-sized plant. 

Cacti are now divided into several genera, and it will be 
best to take these in alphabetical order, giving a few of the most 
desirable and useful species of each. 

Anhalonium. — This small but rather interesting genus was 
formerly classed under Mammillaria. K distinguishing feature, 
however, is an absence of spines and the production of the 
flowers on the young warts, or tubercles. Sorts : A. Engelmanni 
(see Main7?iillaria fissiiratd). A. furfur aceum has pointed tubercles 
and a dented top ; flowers, white or pale pink. A. prisinaticum 
is rare ; it is very symmetrical, the chief colour being a delicate 
pearl grey ; it has a rosette of tubercles at the top, the centre 
of which contains short, soft hairs, and from this the flowers 



ON CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS 



791 



appear ; these are about 2m. long, white, with yellow anthers. 
A. Williamsii (Fig. 524) is an attractive plant, with pale rose 




Fig. 524, — Anhalonium AViLLiAiisii. 



flowers ; from its puffed-out appearance it is called the 
Dumpling Cactus. 

Cereus (Torch Cactus). — Amongst these are the tallest of the 
Cacti, but in their early stages under cultivation they are very 
slow growing. Most of the species have straight, erect stems, 
but there are others which have a procumbent or trailing habit, 
and many of these may be used as climbers. Both kinds bear 
handsome flowers, and many are free blossomers, but the trailing 
kinds are the better, comprising as they do the night-flowering 
and sw^eet-scented varieties. 

Erect Sorts with Pillar-like Stems: C. giganteus^ as its name 
implies, is the giant of the family. In its native habitat it 
attains to a height of 60ft. In its young state the stems are 
globular, only attaining their pillar-like appearance after some 
years. The flowers are produced when about loft. high, and 
they are about 5in. long. C ccerulescens is a tall species, wuth 
large white flowers and blue stems. C. periivia7tiis is tall, with 
very spiny stems ; the flowers are large, white, tinged with red, 
opening out flat. C repandus attains a height of about loft., 
and has very beautiful white flowers. C. Royeni has ornamental- 
ridged stems. C. variabilis is of a branching habit, with white 
flowers. 



792 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Trailing or 



Cliinhi7ig Sorts : 



flowering 



These include most 
species, which have very beautiful and 
blossoms. C. gratidiflorus (Fig. 525) 
has cylindrical stems and large pure 
white flowers \ it is alike the best- 
known and the finest of this section 
and has been called the Queen of the 
Night. C. grandiflorus May 
a cross between C. speciosissiimis and 
C. grandijiorits ; the petals 
are cupped, and the flowers 
are rich red, tinged with 
orange, and will last several 
days. C. Macdonaldice has 
larger flowers than C. grandi- 
^oriis, but they are not 
scented. C. nycticalus is a 
fine night blossomer, with very 
bright yellow and white 
flowers. C. triangularis is 
well-known by its triangular 
stem ; it is a quick grower, 
and climbs freely; the flowers 
are white, from i2in. to 
i4in. across ; the large bright 
scarlet fruit is also orna- 
mental. C. eruca is a quaint 
creepmg species, with stems 
between 2ft. and 3ft. long, 
and yellow flowers. 

Globular Species : Many of 
from their size are best suited 



of the night- 
strongly-scented 




Fig. 525. — Cereus grandiflorus. 




these are 
for small 

(Fig 



Fig. 526. — Cereus c^spitosus. 



of great interest, and 
houses. C. ccespitosiis 
526) attains a height 
of about Sin. ; it has gene- 
rally a number of side 
growths which form into 
clusters ; it is grey-green, 
covered with reddish spines 
and white wool ; the flowers 
are rose with yellow centres ; 
very suitable for windows. 
C. ctenoides is about 4in. in 
height and 3in. round, much 
ribbed and covered with 
stiff white spines ; flowers 
yellow. C. Fendleri has 
pale green stems and is 
very dwarf; the flowers 



ON CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS. 



793 




Fig, 527. — Cereus multiplex. 



are bright purple, and last 
a long time. C. Leeaniis 
is cone-shaped, and 
about gin. in height ; 
the flowers are red, 
and produced several 
together on the top. 
C. multiplex (Fig. 
527) is Pear-shaped, 
with very deep cut 
ridges and clusters 
of spines. Others 
are C. paucispinus^ 
C. pleiogoniLS^ C. 
polyacanthus^ and 
C aggregatus. 

Besides the 
above there are a 
few whose charac- 
teristics are rather 
nondescript, and so 
are given here by 
themselves. C. fla- 
gelliformis has pros- 
trate stems, which are sometimes grafted like Epiphyllums ; it 
is very useful for basket-work ; the flowers are bright red. C 

serpentijius at first has erect 
stems, but as they grow they 
fall and trail on the ground 
unless supported; the flowers 
are large, purple, and sweet 
scented. C. Berlaiidieri (Fig. 
528), with procumbent stems 
and purple flowers, C. lepta- 
canthus^ and C. procumbens 
are also worth growing. 

EcHiNOCACTUS (Hedge- 
hog Cactus). — These, like 
the Melocactuses, are globu- 
lar, very few producing 
offsets, and also attain a 
large size. Alany are really 
handsome, whilst others are 
rather curious. The flowers 
are large and brightly- 
coloured — various shades of 
yellow, white, rose, and pur- 
FiG. 528.— Cereus Berlandieri. ple. Sorts : E. cyli7idraceiis 




794 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



attains a good size and is a free blossomer ; it bears yellow 
flowers and long powerful - hooked spines. E. coiicinnus 
(Fig. 529) is a rather small globular species, having yellow 




Fig. 529. — EcHiNOCACTUs concinnus. 



flowers which are often as large as the plant itself, and 
occasionally several appear together on the same stem. 
E. coptonogoJius is wavy-ribbed and globular, while the flowers are 
rayed white and striped purple. E. cornigerus is noted for its 
strong spines, which are purple ; the stem is waxy, ribbed, and 
grey -green; it is a free blossomer with deep red flowers. 
E. crispatus is very short and neat ; the flowers are white, 
with a purple stripe. E. Emoryi is very striking ; the 
hooked spines are of remarkable size, and are borne at the 
ends of the tubercles ; the flowers are red and yellow. 
E. myriostig77ia (Bishop's Hood) is also remarkable ; it has no 



ON CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS. 



795 



spines, the ridges are very deep, regular, and smooth, and it 
is beautifully dotted with white spots composed of minute hairs 
(Fig. 530). E. scopa has a brush-like appearance, being covered 
with bristle -like 
spines, in tufts. 
The crested form 
{cristatd) is most 
peculiar, much 
resembling i n 
form a cock's- 
comb. Other in- 
teresting species 
are : E. Simpsoni^ 
E. tiirbinifonnis 
(the Pinwheel), 
E. viridescen 
E. Wislizeni^ E. 
Ott07iis^ E. electra- 
ca?tthus, and E. 
horizonthaloiiis. 




EcHiNOPSis are 
also warm-house 
Cacti, but they 
require to be kept 
dry in winter. 
They are globular 
in form, and are 
covered with stiff 
spines. Sorts: 
E. cristata has a 
globular stem, 
with deep star 
ridges ; it is a 
very fine species, 
possessing large 
white flowers. 
E. Eyriesii is re- 
markable for its 

immense flowers in comparison with the size of the plant, which is 
small, with sharp ridges, tufts of fine white hairs, and red spines ; 
the flower is pure white and expands at night, and, when in 
bud, is covered with greyish-black hairs ; it also has a very 
delicate scent. The double form, E. E. flore-pleno (Fig. 531), 
is even more remarkable. E. Fentia?tdi is only 3in. in diameter, 
but also has a large flower, of a bright red colour ; three 
or four flowers will sometimes open together on one plant. 
Its variety, loiigispiniis^ is remarkable on account of its long 
spines. Other kinds are E. multiplex^ E. Midler and E. tubiflorus. 



Fig. 530, — EcHiNocACTUS myriostigma. 



796 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Epiphyllums. — -These Brazilian plants have very fine and 
highly-coloured flowers, and if brought on in heat are useful for 
winter decoration. For pot-work they require to be grafted, 

and the stocks used are 
Feres kia aculeata and P. Bleo 
(these should have stems about 
ift. high); but cuttings are 
very useful for basket-work 
on account of their drooping 
habit. After grafting, which 
should be done in spring, 
they should be grown on in 
warmth longer the first year 
than would be done if the 
plants were well established. 
These plants like more heat 
than most of the Cacti during 
winter ; further, they cannot 
bear to be kept quite so dry 
during that time. If a tempera- 
ture of about 6odeg. is allowed 
they will open their flowers 
in winter ; but this tempera- 
ture should be reduced by 
5deg. when the blossoms 
are well open. E. Russell- 
ianum (Fig. 532) has small 
branches about lin. long; 
the flowers are red, with 
narrow petals. E. truncatum 
has branches from lin. to 
3in. long, with rose-coloured 
flowers and curved petals. 
There are many hybrids 
between these, amongst 
which the following may 
receive notice: E. .bicolor^ purple and white; E. cocci?ieu7n, 
scarlet ; E. GcErtneri (a hybrid between an Epiphyllum and a 
Cereus), with beautiful scarlet and violet flowers, resembling 
those of a Cereus ; E. salmoneiiin^ salmon ; and E. ti'icolor^ 
salmon-red and purple. 

Leuchtenbergia is a remarkable genus, for, with the exception 
of the flower, it has rather the appearance of an Agave than a 
Cactus. The tubercles have the shape of the leaves of that 
plant. It should be kept in a warm house in winter, getting all 
the sun possible, and succeeds best in a sunny frame in summer. 
Z. principis is the only species. It reaches a height of about 
ift. or a little more, with an erect stem ; the leaf-like tubercles 




Fig. 531. — EcHiNOPsis Eyriesii 

FLORE-PLENO. 



ON CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS. 



797 



fall away from the base and leave scales. The flower is bright 
yellow, and appears near the centre. 

Mammillaria.— Many species of this genus are very beautiful. 
They are all dwarf, and the tubercules are surmounted by 
rosettes of stiff hairs or spines, from the midst of which the 
flowers come. The blossoms are of various colours — yellow, rose, 
or white. Many also bear berry-like fruits resembling coral. 
Sorts : M. angularis branches freely, and is bright green with rose- 
coloured flowers, which, however, are rarely seen under cultivation. 




Fig. 532. — Epiphyllum Russellianum. 



M. bicolor is very common and also distinct, on account of the 
hair-like white spines borne in clusters on the ends of the 
tubercles ; it is cylindrical and often branches, presenting a curious 
appearance ; the flowers are deep purple. M. cirrhifera is very 
neat in form ; it has angular tubercles and yellow, twisted spines ; 
the flowers are rose - coloured and small. M. dolichocentra 
(Fig. 533) is rather variable; it is about Sin. in height, with small, 
cone-shaped, smooth mammae ; the flowers are small, but very 
numerous, and of a pale purple colour ; the bright rose-coloured 
fruits are also pretty. M. elephantidens (Fig. 534) is one of the 



I 



798 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

largest of Mara miliarias ; it is globular, 6in. or Sin. in diameter, 
and bright green ; the flowers, which are 3in. across, are bright 
rose and pale purple. M. fissnrata is very remarkable ; it 
somewhat . resembles a top with its thick, short tubercles and 
long woody root ; it is very rare, but is catalogued by Messrs. 
Cannell and Sons under the name of AnhaloJiium fissurata. 
M. gracilis is pretty and distinct, its numerous stems forming 

a neat little 
cushion ; it is a 
profuse blos- 
somer, the flowers 
being yellow. M. 
macromeris (Fig. 
535) more re- 
sembles an orna- 
mented button 
than a plant ; it 
is I Jin. across 
and I in. high; 
when old it forms 
large clusters ; 
the flowers, 
which appear in 
the centre, are 
small, and either 
white or pink in 
colour, M. san- 
guine a has a 
short, thick stem 
covered with fine 
red spines, giving 
it a brush-like 
appea ra nee. 
The flowers 
are bright 
crimson, and 
many open to- 
gether. M.pusilla 
is small and very 
Fig. 533. — Mammillaria dolichocentra. beautiful ; it is 

2in. high, the 

dark green tubercles being covered with fine twisted spines 
and tufts of white wool ; flowers yellow, streaked with red. 
Other species are : M. dasyaca?itha, M. densa, M. echinata^ 
M, echijius^ M. elongata, M. elegans, M. Gi-ahami^ M. missonriensis, 
M. pectinata^ M. Sc/ieerii, and M. Wrightii. 

Melocactus (Melon Cactus) is without doubt one of the most 
peculiar of all the Cacti, being round and, as its name implies. 




ON CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS. 



799 




resembling the shape of 
a melon. It is unbranched, 
and has a soft, woolly, 
cap-like head at the 
apex, bearing small 
tubular rose-coloured 
blossoms. M. com- 
munis (Turk's Cap) 
(Fig. 536) is most 
remarkable ; it has 
a globular stem, 2ft. 
to 3ft, in diameter, 
and on the top a 
cap, cylindrical in 
shape, from 5 in. to 
i2in. in height, 
covered with red 
spines, which closely 
resemble a Turkish 
fez; the flowers, 

which are red, are ^ 

J J ' Fig. q^4. — Mammillaria elephantidens. 

produced on top. 

M. depresses, instead of having a cylindrical cap, has a broad 

tuft of red spines and 
wool like a skull-cap. 
M. Miquelii is oval, 
dark green, and has a 
cylindrical cap com- 
posed of white threads 
and red bristles. 

Opuntia (Indian Fig 
or Prickly Pear). — This 
is about the best known 
and the most exten- 
sively grown of all the 
Cacti, and from one 
species ( O. cochinelliferd) 
the cochineal insect is 
obtained. They bear 
various coloured flowers 
— yellow, red, and 
purple — and can stand 
a low winter tempera- 
ture, some being almost 
hardy. Sorts : O. arbor- 
escens grows in the 
form of a tree ; the 
flowers appear on the 




Fig. 535.— Mammillaria 
macromeris. 



8oo 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ends of the young branches, are from 2in. to 3in. in diameter, 
and bright purple ; the plant will attain a height of from 8ft. 

to 30ft. O. basilai^is (Fig. 537) has 
a very curious habit, the stem being 
short, and producing a number of 
flat branches which spread out at 
the top. O. brazilie?tsis has a straight, 
slender stem from loft. to 30ft. high, 
having short lateral branches ; the 
flowers are pale yellow. O. cylindrica 
has cylindrical stems and branches ; 
the flowers are scarlet, and very 
numerous. O. Ficus - indica is 
the Indian Fig, so well known 
on account of its Pear-shaped fruit ; 
it growls from 8ft. to 12ft. high, and 
has yellow flowers. O. Rafinesquii 
is a low-spreading species (Fig. 538), 
with flowers of a bright yellow colour, 
produced in profusion on the edges 
of the young joints ; the fruit is 
Pear-shaped and edible. O. Tuna is erect, with flat stems ; the 
flowers are orange- red, borne on the newly ripened joints. 
Others sorts are O. aiirantiaca^ O. boliviaiia^ O. Emory 
O. Engehnanni, O. fi'iitescens^ O. microdasys, O. missouriensis, 
and O. polyacaiitha. 

Pereskia (Barbados Goose- 
berry). — These are chiefly grown 
to afford stocks for Epiphyllums, 
&c. However, P. Bleo is very 




Fig. 



536. — Melocactus 
communis. 



decorative, 



having 



red blossoms. 



Phyllocactuses are the most 
ornamental of all the Cacti, and the 
species are largely grown on that 
account. They have fine flowers, 
varying in shades of rose, w^hite, 
and red. When of a good size, 
the plants benefit by a top-dressing 
of rich soil ; and during the growl- 
ing season liquid manure may also 
be given. Till the end of the 
summer they will be greatly assisted 
in ripening if placed against a dry 
wall, well exposed to the sun. 
Sorts : P. Acker-manni (Fig. 539) 
has large handsome flowers of a deep scarlet colour 
has very deeply-notched branches and a stiff, erect habit; the 




Fig. 537. — Opuntia basilaris. 



P. aiigiilige7' 



ON CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS. 



8oi 



. flowers, which are pure white, have a long curved tube. P. cre- 
natus has very large flowers of a pale cream colour, which exhale. 




Fig. 538. — Opuntia Rafinesquii. 

a beautiful fragrance. P. {Disocadits) biformis is small, having 
an affinity to 
Epiphyllum; 
the notched 
branches are 
short and 
drooping, a s 
also are the 
flowers ; the 
berry-like fruit 
is red. P. 
grandis has very 
creamy-white flowers, often 
I ft. in length, which open 
at night, and are strongly 
scented. P. latifrons is 
a large, quick - growing 
species, with broad stems 
and white flowers. P. phyl- 
lanthoides grows from 2ft. 
to 3ft. high, and has hand- 
some bright rose-coloured 
flowers. In addition to 
the above there are many 

beautiful hybrids, a few of „ . 

, . , , ' 1 Fig. z.'ix). — Phyllocactus Ackermanni. 

which may be noted : 

P. albus-superbus^ P. aurafitiacus siiperbus^ P. Cooperi, P. grajidi 
florus^ P. Haagei^ P. kermesina magmts^ and P. roseus grandifiorus. 

3 F 




802 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



PiLOCEREUS. — This genus is chiefly remarkable for P. senilis^ 
the Old Man Cactus (Fig. 540), but there are also several other 

curious and interesting 
species. They have 
erect stems, sometimes 
branched, and the 
flowers, which have 
an unpleasant odour, 
are produced on top 
of the matured stems. 
P. HouUetianus has 
glaucous stems, broad 
ridges, and spines 
mingled with long 
cottony - w^hite hairs. 
The flowers, w^hich 
are funnel-shaped, are 
borne in clusters ; 
colour, rose-purple and 
yellow. Fruit large and 
bright red. P, senilis 
will reach a height of 
25ft. On the upper 
portion it has a 
number of long silky 
white hairs, giving it 
the appearance of 
an old man's head : 
hence the above 
common name. P. 
Brilnnowianus, 
P. Celsianus, and 
P. Hoppeiistedti^ are three sorts also worth growing. 

Rhipsalis. — These are amongst the most peculiar of the 
Cacti, some having thin willow-like stems, while the stems of 
others are flattened and leaf-like. Sorts : R. Cassytha, P. Houiletii, 
P. paradoxa, P. crispata, and P. funalis (Fig. 541)- 
P. Cassytha (Mistletoe Cactus) is of a pendent habit, with 
numerous branches and branchlets, the latter being no thicker 
than whipcord; the berries are white, like Mistletoe. P. cojnmune 
has a freely-branching, straggling stem, and white and purple 
flowers ; this plant is very suitable for baskets. P. crispata has 
flat, jointed branches, resembling an Epiphyllum ; the flowers 
are small and white, as are the fruits. P. funalis has 
straggling stems and numerous glaucous, thin branches ; the 
flowers are white. Other kinds are P. Knightii, P. paradoxa, 
P. salicornoides, P. myosurus, P. pendulijlora, and P. sar- 
mentacea. 




Fig. 540. — PiLOCEREUS senilis. 



ON CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS. 



803 



Many species will succeed well in a rockery under a 
frame, merely 
requiring a 
little protec- 
tion against 
our generally 
damp and 
foggy climate. 
Amongst these 
are : C er eu s 
Engelmanni^ 
C. Fe7idleri^ 
C. gonaca n th us, 
C. phoeniceus, 
Echinocactus 
P e n 1 1 a n d i , 
E. Simpsoni, 
Ma 711 in il I aria 
vivipara, Opun- 
tia humilis, O. 
missouriensis, 
O. Rafinesquii 
and var. ar- 
kansana, and 
O. vulgaris. 

Other Succulents. 

Agaves (American Aloes) are very handsome and ornamental 
plants, having thick, fleshy leaves and sharp spines. Many attain 
a large size, and require to be grown in tubs, but there are also 
smaller species which are more suited to houses of limited 
dimensions. However, the larger species are very slow growing 
under cultivation, so that if small specimens are obtained they 
will not require much room for a long time. There is an 
erroneous idea in many people's minds that these plants only 
flower once in a century. Certainly this is so far correct with 
nearly all the species, inasmuch as they die directly after 
blossoming ; but it is quite wrong to suppose that there is any 
stated time for their doing so. A. filifera and a few others will 
occasionally survive if the flowers happen to be produced from a 
lateral instead of a crown bud. The flower-spikes themselves are 
very handsome, being produced on long stems, which in the large 
species attain a great height. Propagate by suckers, give thorough 
drainage, and grow in stiff", yellow loam. Expose to the full sun 
during summer, and give plenty of water at that season. Large- 
growing sorts : A. americana (Fig. 542) and vars. picta and 
variegata, A. Ifookeri, A. Maxiniiliana, A. potatorum, and 

3 F 2 




8o4 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



A. atrovirens. Small-growing sorts : A. cuspidata^ A. enstfera, 
A. horrida, A. filifera, A. mexicana^ A. Regelii^ A. striata^ 

A. albicans^ A. ferox, and 
A. rigida. 

Aloes. — The true Aloes 
come from the Cape of 
Good Hope. They differ 
from the Agaves chiefly 
in having long and rather 
thin stems, which, when 
the plants are large, re- 
quire support, in having 
brittle leaves without fibre, 
and in flowering freely 
without dying immedi- 
ately afterwards. They 
are handsome subjects, 
and the flowers of many 
species are very beautiful. 
If the plants get too 
lanky for the house in 
which they are growing, 
top may be cut off 
easily rooted in almost 
soil in spring. Aloes 
readily propagated by 
suckers, and also 
from the leaves. 
, There are a very 
large number that 
are well worth 
growing, amongst 
which the following 
may be mentioned : 
A. africa?ia, A. 
arborescens^ A. abys- 
sinica, A. ccesia, 
A. frutescens^ A. 
Gree?iii, A. lineata^ 
A. platylepis^ A. spicata, A. striata^ A. tricolor^ and A. variegata. 

Cotyledons. — Many of these are handsome plants, and are 
very easy of culture ; they mostly come from South Africa, and 
are allied to the Crassulas. Sorts : C. atropiirpurea, C. car?iicolor, 
C. coccinea, C. cristata^ C. glaiica, C. Peacockii^ C. stolonifera^ and 
C rotundifolia. These were formerly known as Echeverias. 

Crassulas. — These are very ornamental flowering plants, with 
thick, fleshy leaves ; they come from South Africa, and are easily 




the 

and 
dry 
are 



Fig. 542. — Agave Americana. 



ON CACTI AND OTHER SUCCULENTS. 



805 



raised from cuttings. Sorts : C. Bolusii, C. ciliata, C. coccinea 
(Fig. 543), C. cordafa, C. fakata, C. margina/is, C. jasminea^ 
C. ?'osularis, and C. versicolor. C. coccifiea is a very handsome 
plant, which is extensively cultivated. 
Young plants are best grown singly 
in 4in. or 6in. pots, and benefit by 
manure during summer. 



Euphorbias. — Many of these very 
much resemble Cacti, but apart 
from their peculiar appearance are 
not worth growing, except E. spleii- 
dens and E. pulcherrima {Poitisettia 
-bidcherrima). Sorts: E. triangularis, 
E. grandicomis, E. Bojerii, E. splen- 
dens, and E. erosa. E. splendens is a 
climber, with brilliant scarlet flowers, 
and will blossom nearly all the year. 
It may be grown either on the roof 
or on balloons in pots. 

Furcr^as are handsome plants 
allied to the Agaves, and require 
the same treatment. Sorts: E.cubensis^ 
E. elegans, 
and E. undulata. 



E. gigantea, E. longceva, 



Gasterias are 
Aloes rto which 



something 




Fig. 543. — Crassula 
coccinea. 



like 

they are allied). 
Some of them have beautifully 
coloured leaves, smooth and shiny, 
but sometimes rough. They also pro- 
duce spikes of long white pendulous 
flowers, occasionally rough. Sorts : 
G. angtistifolia, G. drevifolia, G. glabra, 
G. spiralis, G. pulchra, G. fiigricans, 
G. sulcata, and G. trig07ia. 

Haworthias are curious plants, also allied to the Aloes ; they 
have grey flowers. Sorts : H. atrovirens, H. attenuata, H. fasciata, 
and H. viscosa. 

Mesembryanthemums (Fig-Marigolds). — Many of these have 
very fine and highly-coloured flowers. The genus is very large, 
and all the species have thick, fleshy leaves, which in some cases 
are very pretty, and in others very curious. They may all be 
propagated by seeds, and most of them by cuttings. Many are 
very useful for basket-work, having a creeping habit. Creeping 
sorts are : M. attenuatiim, M. australe, M. calyci?ium, M. densuin 
(Fig. 544), M. florihundum, Al. glaiLCesceiis, and M. striatum. 
Annuals : M. calendulaceum, M. californicum, M. crystallinuin 



8o6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



(Ice Plant), and M. pyropmim. 
M. cande?is, M. coccineum, 



Erect : M. albiduvi^ M. blandu?n, 
M. Cootieri^ M. cordifolium^ 




Fig. 544. — Mesembb.yaxihe:*jum densum. 



M. c. variegatuin, M. formosuin^ M. minutum^ J/, spectabile^ 
M. tigrinum (Fig. 545), and M. violaceuin. 




Fig. 545. — ]Mesembryanthemum tigrinum. 




\^—0n PaJms^ 
Cycads^ and Bamboos. 

By x\. Griessen. 

Palms. 

Palms. — "Those haughty princes of the Vegetable Kingdom," as 
Linnaeus justly termed them^ — form one of the most useful orders, 
not only for decorative purposes, as we understand it here, but 
also on account of their important economic properties in their 
native countries, furnishing the daily food of a very considerable 
portion of the human race. The stems of many of them provide 
excellent timber, which is very largely used for building purposes, 
while the leaves are often employed in the making of articles of 
every-day use. Some species furnish also a valuable wax, which 
is very much in demand at the present time ; and others yield seeds 
from which a useful oil is extracted. The fruits of many Palms 
form an excellent article of food — Dates, for example, from 
Phoenix dactylifera (Fig. 546). Palm wine, generally called 
"toddy," is another product of the PalmcB. We must, however, 
restrict our attention to the decorative properties of these plants, 
which, for the embellishment of our greenhouses as well as our 
apartments, are without rivals. 



8o8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



to the fine and 
such as the charming 
all are conspicuously 



Very few foliage plants can equal the Palms, although Ferns 
may in some respects. From the noble appearance of certain 
species of Sabal, Bismarckia, Corypha, 
delicate forms of others of moderate sizes, 
Cocos Weddeliaiia or Geo?io7?ia gracilis, 
beautiful. 

The Palms are all natives of tropical countries, with the 
exception of a very limited number extending to the limits of 
the cool regions. They appear at 36deg. N. lat. in America, 
44deg. N. lat. in Europe, 34deg. N. lat. in Asia, and 38deg. 

S. lat. in the Southern 
Hemisphere. Several 
are found under the blue 
sky of the Riviera ; 
and anyone who has 
had the pleasure of 
visiting the Mediter- 
ranean regions, from 
Toulon, along the coast 
in the direction of Italy, 
as well as by the side 
of the Italian coast, 
will have gained an idea 
of their valuable decora- 
tive properties, and of 
fine contrasts that can 
obtained when they are 
cleverly arranged with other 
plants. At Nice the splendid 
Promenades des Anglais is 
planted with some enormous 
Phodiiix dactylifera. 

Decorative Uses. — Such 
varieties as Cocos Weddeliana, 
Geo noma gracilis, small 
Kentias, Arecas, Coryphas, 
and Euterpes may be very 
profitably utilised for decora- 
tive purposes. They remain 
in perfect order for a long 
time when kept in rooms, 
and in many cases they will exist where Ferns would soon 
perish. The only requirements in such cases are that they must 




the 

be 



Fig. 546. — Phcenix dactylifera, 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



809 



not be placed in too dark a room, and that while they should 
be only slightly watered, their leaves should be sponged from 
time to time to prevent the accumulation of dust. 

Palms are also an important item in the embellishment of our 
winter gardens, and when properly treated they sometimes reach 
enormous sizes. It may be advisable here to say a few words 
as regards their use in sub -tropical bedding. Matter for 
regret is that this order is not more largely employed. 
Trachycarpus excelsus, Chamcerops humilis^ and Fhmiix 
cafiariensis are plants forming the most charming contrasts when 
well grouped, and they may be used as isolated specimens or 
as central ones in the making of sub-tropical beds, &c. In 
southern counties, or in proximity to seaside places where 
the temperature very seldom falls below freezing-point, they may 
be planted out ; and when frost is expected they may be encased 
in straw until mild weather sets in. 

Many of our London parks afford illustrations of a few of the 
great advantages offered by some of these plants ; but in utilising 
them for such purposes they must be planted in positions 
protected from the direct north winds, the full south being 
always preferable, and the soil should be previously prepared in 
order to make it a trifle lighter. 

When Palms, such as species of Phcejtix or of Cocos, which 
often reach good heights, are employed for landscape work, they 
should be placed between other plants in order to obtain the 
most picturesque effect. For isolated specimens, species of 
Sabal, Latania, Chamcerops^ &c., are the best. But the accli- 
matisation of some other Palms is worth trying. 

Soils would not, on first consideration, appear to have a pre- 
dominant influence on Palms ; but it must be observed that the 
plants are mostly found in a rich soil. We may divide the 
requisite soils into two distinct classes : the first strong, i.e.^ not 
easily dried up, such as loam ; and the second the light kinds, 
rather rich in sand, and which dry up very quickly. 

In the culture of Palms in pots, a sort of rational compost has 
to be prepared, viz., a mixture of the two above-named classes. 
In some nurseries where Palms are largely grown, the compost is 
carefully prepared some time before using, and the following 
composition is a usual mixture : one third of good fibrous loam, 
one third of leaf-mould, and one third of sand, but this is 
only employed for established plants which need to be potted up. 

For the propagation of Palms a lighter compost is required, 
through which water can easily percolate, and through which the 
atmospheric influences, so useful for the germination of any 
seeds, can penetrate. The proportion of loam must be consider- 
ably lower than that mentioned above. 

Imported Palms from Southern districts {e.g.^ Algiers, the 
Riviera, Italy, or Spain), which were grown in the open and 



8io 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



have reached a certain size, would thrive splendidly in a 
stronger compost, and this chiefly applies to the well-known 
Chamserops and Phoenix, &c., which are so largely grown under 
those latitudes ; but Palms raised in nurseries require, for a 
certain number of years, a lighter soil than that found in their 
native places. 

In planting out, the nature of the ground must be taken into 
consideration, and the soil previously prepared according to the 
kind of plant. Drainage must always be thorough, for the 
number of species growing in swampy places is very small. In 
the case of Palms cultivated in pots, drainage is a first necessity, 
for in many instances, when they are plunged in a tan bed, the 
bottom hole of the pot would be easily closed. 

General Hints. — Palms under our latitude are chiefly kept 
under glass, but they do not seem to require any particular kind 
of house. Besides the almost hardy species that have been 
mentioned, we may divide this order into two different groups : 
those growing freely under greenhouse treatment, and those 
which require stove- or warm-house treatment. Numerous species 
will thrive successfully in the greenhouse, Chanmrops, PJmnix, 
Seaforthia, Kentia^ Corypha, &c., which do not require any 
higher temperature. Those requiring stove temperature form a 
list too long to be given in full here, but they are found in such 
genera as Cocos, Caryota, Geonojna, Sabal, T/iri?iax, &c. Here, 
however, we are alluding to the growing of established plants, 
for raising is quite a different matter. A warm-house becomes 
in this instance a first necessity, thus enabling the seedlings 
to be placed in strong, heat, facilitating germination. 

Palms under glass require to be protected to a certain extent 
from the direct rays of the sun during the warmer part of our 
summer. On the Continent, where Palms are extensively culti- 
vated, they are often kept in frames covered with lights on a good 
hot-bed composed of stable sweepings. This method is a very 
cheap one for greenhouse kinds, dispensing with the cost of 
firing. The frames are raised as the plants grow taller, and the 
space between them is filled with litter to the level of the lights. 

Propagation. — If Palms vary enormously as regard their 
forms or habits, they also offer us in propagation a rather wide 
field. • Some kinds produce suckers, which may be utilised for 
reproduction if carefully removed or divided. The suckers must 
be potted up singly, and kept in a warmer house on a certain 
amount of bottom-heat to establish them quickly ; they must, of 
course, be protected from the sun, and careful attention must be 
given to the watering. 

Palms are generally propagated from seeds, which have to be 
collected in their native countries. With few exceptions the seeds 
do not retain their germinative properties very long, and should 
be sown when fresh, usually towards the beginning of the year. 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



8ll 



They are usually placed in rather shallow pans or boxes, and in 
some large establishments are often placed on a layer of cocoanut 
fibre. The best method is to use well-drained pans or boxes, 
filled up with a very light compost, rich in sand, and placed on 
a strong bottom-heat until germination is noticeable. Seeds are 
also often stratified to make them germinate quicker. {See 
Chapter "On Plant Propagation.") A temperature of yodeg. is 
preferable to give them a good start, and when they begin to 
show their primordial leaves they may be pricked off and potted 
up singly or several in a pot, according to the future development 
of the plants. The small seedlings have still to be kept in a 
close temperature to enable them to recover from the change. 
If they cannot be potted up at once they may grow weakly. To 
prevent this they should be kept in a more moderate heat, or air 
be given. Shade is a first necessity in case of bright weather. 

Water must be generously applied, chiefly on warm days, for 
the young plants will greatly benefit by the warm and moist 
atmosphere. We do not allude to direct watering only, but also 
to syringing, which will not only facilitate their growth, but also 
keep them clean and free from Thrips, Red Spider, and other 
pests. 

Palms are rather susceptible at their roots when in a young 
state. In repotting care must be taken not to use too large a 
pot. It is much simpler and more profitable to a young plant 
to give it an annual shift if wanted than to put it in a large pot 
at once, for the roots will soon be blocked up in a mass of 
compost which will inevitably become sour by the constant 
watering. With regard to specimens of a certain size which are 
growing a trifle slower, it is not necessary to repot them very 
often so long as they remain in good health ; a top-dressing of 
rich soil is quite sufficient. 

The best time for potting up Palms is the early spring, but 
in the case of young seedlings this may be done at any time. 
The best guide is the state of their roots. A young plant 
must not be allowed to be pot-bound unless required for table 
decoration, as our small Cocos Weddeliana and many others 
often are. 

When Palms are grown for room decoration, as in nurseries, 
it is advisable to confine them in as small pots as possible ; for 
large pots are often objected to by the decorator, and when the 
roots have to be so restricted liquid manure must be applied 
about twice a week ; this imparts a deep green colour to the 
leaves. 

Pests. — Though Palms are not so susceptible to insect and 
other attacks as are many soft-wooded plants, still, Thrips, 
Scale of difl'erent sorts. Red Spider, and Mealy-bug are 
sometimes troublesome, and are often induced by the dry 
atmosphere in which the plants have been kept. Syringing 



8l2 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



in warm weather is the most powerful preventive to many of 
those pests. Fumigations will soon kill the Thrips, and careful 
spongings will remove the other pests, though spraying with a 
weak solution of kerosene emulsion is best for the Scale. The 
spraying should be repeated in about ten or twelve days. 
Cultivated Palms are liable to have their foliage attacked by 
a fungus known as Pestalozzia phanids, a relative of the Grey 
Blioht of Tea Plants. The leaves are covered with small 
greyish blotches, which soon increase in size and number. 
Spraying with sulphide of potassium — loz. to 3gals. of water — 
might be tried ; while in bad attacks the foliage had better be 
destroyed by burning. 

Selection of Kinds. — It is estimated that the number of 
species of Palms known at the present time exceeds iioo, but 
only a certain number of them have so far found place in our 
houses. The fine collection at Kew comprises more than 400 
species. Our enumeration must be confined to species in 
general cultivation, omitting those of only botanical value. 
The best known genera in gardens are : Areca, Astrocarywji^ 
Attalea^ Calamus^ Caryota, Chamcedorea^ Cocos, Geo?20??ia, 
HyphcEiia^ Licuala, Lwisto7ta, and Phoenix. The nomenclature 
is based on the Kew classification. 

AcANTHOPHGENix. — Tliis Small genus is only represented in 
cultivation by two or three species, natives of Mauritius and the 
Bourbon Islands. They are in some respects closely allied to Areca, 
and very decorative. Their leaves are pinnate, and their petioles 
are armed with spines, which form a characteristic of Areca. 
They require stove treatment, a good supply of water, and a 
light soil. A. crmita {A. Herbstii^ Areca crinita, and Calamus 
dealbatus) has curved leaves of a rather pale green, and with 
their under-parts of a whitish colour ; this species often presents 
a shiny, yellowish appearance. A. rubra is quite distinct from 
the above on account of its longer leaves, which in their young 
state are of a reddish colour, and when fully developed change 
to a splendid deep green ; the spines are not so numerous as 
on A. crinita. 

AcANTHORHiZA. — Another small genus which only a few years 
ago was included with the ChamcBrops and Thrinax^ and 
which differs from Tj-ithriitax by its aerial roots, which very 
often are taken for spines. This genus is only represented in 
cultivation by two or three species which are very decorative. 
A sandy compost suits them admirably. A. aculeata {A. 
stauracantha and ChamcBrops stauracantha) is a well-known 
greenhouse plant, widely cultivated, and used with great success 
for outdoor ornamentation, chiefly in the southern counties ; its 
numerous roots when fully developed change into spines ; the 
leaves, which are palmate, are divided into segments of a deep 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



813 



green on the surface and white below. A. Warscewiczii differs 
from the preceding species in its large stems and long petioles 
(sometimes 3fto) protected by a mass of white fibres ; the leaves 
are very wide, and are divided into segments of a dark grey 
above and whitish below. 

Areca. — Some of the species of this very valuable genus 
have been classified under other generic names as Aca?itho- 
phoenix^ Euterpe^ Uyophorbe, Kejitia, &c. However, the 
remaining ones are very ornamental stove Palms, widely dis- 
tributed in tropical regions. Arecas are distinguished by their 
branching spadix as well as by the double spathe covering 
the flowers, which are 
unisexual on the same 
spike ; the female flowers 
possess six small stamens 
and the male ones a six- 
cleft perianth. The plants 
require a light sandy soil 
in their young state ; when 
fully developed a heavier 
compost must be used. 
The only way to propagate 
them is by seeds. Their 
qualities are well known, 
and they are extremely 
useful for room decora- 
tion. A. Catechu is a very 
handsome and decorative 
stove species. In its young 
state it forms a very useful 
sort for indoor decoration. 
The leaves are pinnate, 
vary in length from 3ft. to 
6ft., and have leaflets 
which often reach i8in. ; 
the petioles are mostly 
broadly sheathed at the base. This species possesses some 
valuable economical properties, furnishing the Betel Nut, so 
largely used in India. Ax. glandiformis (Fig. 547) is a showy 
stove Palm of rather bold aspect, and extremely decorative in 
its early state ; its leaves are pinnatisect, varying in length 
from 8ft. to 12ft. when fully developed. This species often 
reaches 30ft. high or more. 

AsTROCARYUM. — This genus includes some very attractive 
heat-loving plants which mostly attain a great height. It is to 
a certain extent allied to Cocos^ producing generally prickly 
stems with pinnate leaves of a fine green colour on the upper 




Fig. 547. — Areca glandiformis. 



8t4 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



surface. The flowers, however, are unisexual, and are found 
on simply branched spikes ; the males occupy the upper part 
while the female flowers are found on the lower. Astrocaryums 
require a strong compost and an abundant supply of water : 
they are chiefly propagated by seeds and seldom by suckers. 
A. acaule is a peculiar stemless species producing a great 
number of leaves, varying from 3ft. to 8ft. long, which 
are pinnate and spreading, with narrow pinnae disposed in 
clusters and pendent ; the plant is very well protected by a 
multitude of black spines. A. filare is a very distinct plant 
with erect leaves, narrowly cuneate, and with two divergent 
lobes ; the petioles are covered with white scurf on the upper 
as well as the under portions. A. Malybo {A. argenteiim) is 
known as one of the best of the Silver Palm section ; the leaves 
are arching, rather wedge-shaped, distinctly plicate, bright green 
on their upper surface, while the under part and all the stalks 
are covered with a whitish scurf, which imparts the silvery 
appearance. A. Mum Miiru is an attractive Palm, with a stem 
rarely exceeding 15ft. in height, and armed with strong reflexed 
black spines sometimes exceeding 6in. ; the leaves are pinnate, 
and the leaflets lanceolate, of a dark green above and silvery- 
white beneath. A. rostratum is an interesting species, rather 
slow-growing, producing a slender stem densely armed with long 
black spines; its irregular pinnate leaves vary in length from 3ft. 
to 8ft., and the pinnse from i2in. to 2oin. ; the petioles, which 
are also armed with numerous black spines, are broadly 
sheathing at the base, of a deep green on the upper surface and 
somewhat white beneath. 

Attalea. — A very decorative and distinct stove genus 
belonging to the tropical American flora. The pinn^ are arranged 
vertically instead of horizontally, and the leaves spring from 
the base in an almost perpendicular direction. The plants are 
quite unarmed. Attaleas thrive admirably in a mixture of equal 
parts peat and loam, and require a good supply of w^ater. 
This genus does not seem to be known as it ought to be, 
considering its decorative value. A. amygdalifia (A. nucifera) is 
one of the best species of the genus, and thrives very ^vell in 
a greenhouse during the summer; it produces a slender stem, 
with pinnate leaves varying from 2ft. to 6ft. in length. The 
pinnae often attain i8in. in length, and are of a rich deep 
green. A. Cohime^ like the preceding, ought to be more 
frequently seen, for at ah stages it is a very handsome 
plant; the leaves are erect, alternate and pinnate, and are 
provided with a large number of beautiful dark green pinnae, 
varying from i2in. to i8in. long. A. funifera (Piassaba 
Palm) is very valuable on account of its economical and 
decorative properties ; it produces a kind of fibre largely used 
in America for rope-making, and is sometimes used in 



ON PALMSj CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



815 



England for brooms ; the leaves are of a beautiful uniform 
dark green colour. 

Bactris is another genus not very well known in cultivation. 
It is well represented by the number of its species, which are 
very decorative. They have slender stems armed with enormous 
spines. The leaves are pinnatisect, and the segments mostly 
linear and entire. The stems of some kinds in the young state 
are used for making walking-sticks. Some of the species are 
easily grown in a rich compost, but others present certain 
cultural difficulties. Propagation is effected by suckers, when they 
can be obtained. Bactrises in general are only decorative in their 
young state. B. baculifera has leaves varying from 2ft. to 6ft. 
in length, pinnate and bifid at the apex. The pinnae are dark 
green on the upper surface and a paler shade below. The petioles 
are sheathing and armed with dark spines, often exceeding lin. 
in length. B. paUidispina {B. flavispina) is very elegant in 
its early state, with its pinnate leaves, bifid at the apex. The 
pinnae, which attain i2in., are clustered, and of a fine deep 
green colour. The petioles are sheathing at the base, and 
densely clothed with yellowish spines. 

Bacularia. — A genus represented by only a couple of stove 
species, which are classified amongst the smallest Palms. Their 
stems are slender, very seldom exceeding the thickness of a 
man's thumb. They require exactly similar treatment to Arecas. 
B. monostachya {Areca monostachyd) is an elegant Palm, extremely 
valuable on account of its small size and decorative properties. 
It produces slender stems with sheathing petioles. The leaves, 
which often reach i2in. long, are pinnate and pendent, bifid at 
their apex. The pinnae vary in length and shape, and are of a 
dark green colour. 

BoRASSUs. — A very small but charming genus of stove-plants, 
represented by two species ; these may easily be recognised by 
their peculiar unisexual flowers, which are produced by distinct 
plants. The males are found on dense-branching catkins, and the 
females on simple ones. The fruit is three-seeded. The leaves 
are fan-shaped, and the petioles are spiny, while the stem is 
completely unarmed. Borassus grow very freely in a substantial 
compost, and are propagated by seeds, for the germination of which 
a great amount of bottom-heat is required. B. cethiopiaim is a very 
ornamental species, rather rare in cultivation, and is remarkable 
for a kind of swelling in its stem, mostly near the middle ; the 
leaves are nearly circular and plaited, and are supported by 
stout petioles varying from 6ft. to 7ft. in length ; this species 
also possesses valuable economical properties, its stem furnishing 
the "toddy," while mats and hats are made with the leaves. 
B. flabellifer is an Asiatic species, possessing similar properties 
to the preceding; the leaves are mostly circular and plaited 



8i6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



like a partially open fan provided with a great number of ribs, 
all radiating from the centre. It is of a rather slow growth. 

Brahea. — A very small genus composed of dwarf Palms, 
represented in cultivation by only a few species, which thrive 
in the greenhouse during the summer months. The leaves are 
fan-shaped, and the flowers are hermaphrodite and green. Braheas 
require a rich fibrous compost and abundant saturation through 
their growing period. B. dulcis is a rare and slow-growing species, 
possessing a stout stem, with petioles partly protected at their 
base, by a network of brown fibre, clothed with woolly tomentum, 

and armed all alon? the 
edges with a multitude of 
spines ; the leaves are 
nearly circular, plaited, and 
shining green. 

Calamus. — A very in- 
teresting genus represented 
by many species. Dcemono- 
rops^ which formerly was 
united to Cala??n<s, is now 
separated, Calamuses have 
their flowers densely 
clustered upon branching 
spikes, every branch having 
a separate spathe which 
is not long enough' to 
enclose it. For the charac- 
teristics of the other divi- 
sion, see " Daemonorops." 
Calamuses are all of 
slender growth, some of 
them climbing very high 
in their native countries, 
while others rarely exceed 
2oft. The species in general 
are very decorative in their 
young state, and may be 
are also verv handsome 
of loam and vegetable 
as well as a copious 
be effected by suckers, 




Fig. 548. — Calamus ciliaris. 



used for table decoration. They 
the stove. A rich soil composed 
in equal quantities is required, 
of water. Propagation can easily 

grow pretty freely from the base. C. accedeiis is an 
slender-growing species, rather rare, and dwarf in 
. which ought to be more largely grown. It produces 
long, arching, deep green, pinnate leaves, the pinnae being 
long, rather narrow, and somewhat closely set. The petioles 
are provided with slender black spines.' C. adspersus is a 



m 

mould 
supply 
which 
elegant, 
stature. 



ON PALMS, 



CYCADS, 



AND BAMBOOS. 



817 



curious slender species, with a stem not much larger than a 
large wheat-straw ; the petioles vary from 6in. to 9in. in length, 
sheath at the base, and are armed with long, slender, black 
spines ; the leaves are pinnate ; the pinnae vary in length from 
6in. to 8in., are narrow, and of a deep green colour. C. asper- 
rijHiis is a noble species, reaching a considerable size ; it throws 
up a quantity of suckers, forming a handsome mass, which 
may also be utilised for propagation. The leaves vary in length 
from 3ft. to 9ft., and are pinnate ; the pinnae, which vary from 
I ft. to 2ft. long, are of a light green colour, and are provided 
on their upper side with two rows of spines ; the petioles 
also are clothed with long black spines. C. ciliaris (Fig. 548) is one 
of the small-growing kinds, and the plume-like habit of the foliage 
renders it a handsome subject for table decoration. It produces 
an erect and slender stem, and bright green leaves covered 
with a quantity of soft hairs ; the petioles are sheathing at the 
base. C. flagelluni is a very distinct species, climbing to a great 
height ; the stem is slender ; the leaves are from 6ft. to 9ft. 
in length, and are pinnate; the pinnae are pendent, vary in 
length from 8in. to i2in., and are of a dark green colour, their 
surface being provided with two rows of white hair-like spines ; 
the petioles are sheathing, and armed with a great number of 
white spines, rather swollen at their base. C. Rotmig is a 
handsome species in its young state, but reaches in its native 
country a height of several hundred feet, and is a fast climber ; 
the stem is slender, with pinnate leaves varying from 3ft. to 
4ft. in length; the pinnse also vary in length from 6in. to i2in., 
are deep green in colour, and are provided on their upper sur- 
face with two rows of hair-like spines ; the petioles as well as 
the stem are armed with stout reversed spines. C. te?iiiis 
(C. Royleafius)^ a very elegant species, produces pinnate and 
arching leaves, bearing a quantity of narrow dark green pinnae, 
which, like the sheathing petioles, are armed with a small 
number of spines. C. vhninalis is a distinct species, throwing 
up in its young state its whip-like, spiny spikes of flowers ; it 
produces a slender stem, with sheathing petioles, which are 
armed with long flat white spines ; the leaves vary in length 
from I ft. to 2ft., and furnish a prodigious number of bright 
green pinnae, which often reach 6in. long, and are rather 
narrow. 

Calyptrogyne. — A handsome but small genus, closely allied 
to Geono7na. It comprises about half-a-dozen species, requiring 
stove treatment. For culture see " Geonoma." C Ghiesbreghtiaiia 
{Geonojna Ghiesbreghtiana, G. viagnifica, and G. Verschaffeltii) is 
a rather dwarf-growing species, without any noticeable stem ; its 
pinnate leaves vary from 2ft, to 5ft. in length; the pinnas are 
mostly opposite, seldom alternate, having an interval between 
them, and are of a bright green on the upper surface and 

3 G 



8i8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENINC7. 



paler below. C. spicigera is another elegant kind, possessing 
a stout stem and irregular pinnate rich green leaves, varying 
from 2ft. to 3ft. in length, and deeply bifid at apex ; the petioles 

are short and 
sheathing at the 
base, mostly 
flat on their 
upper side and 
rounded below. 
C. Swartzii 
( Calyptronoma 
Swartzii) is 
another hand- 
some plant in 
its early stage, 
and is valuable 
on account of its de- 
corative properties ; it 
produces a smooth 
stem; the leaves are 
equally pinnatisect, and 
the pinnae are deeply re- 
duplicate at the base 
and bifid at the top. 

Caryota. — A decora- 
tive and valuable genus, 
represented in cultiva- 
tion by a dozen beauti- 
ful species, all requiring 
stove treatment ; but 
some of them can be 
employed in summer 
for sub-tropical gardens. 
Characteristic distinc- 
tions of this genus are 
the bipinnate leaves of 
its species and the 
cuneate cross - pinnae. 
The species only flower 
after they have reached 
their fall size, and when 
the flowers appear at 
the base of the stem 
very often the plant dies off, except when suckers have grown 
before. C. urens is often used for outdoor decoration during 
the summer months. Caryotas require a rich soil, composed of 
equal parts loam and vegetable mould, and good drainage, 
for in their growing period they delight in a good supply of water. 




Fig. 549. — Caryota mitis. 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



819 



Propagation may be effected by suckers, but seeds are to be 
preferred. Caryotas also possess some economic value, yielding 
a kind of "toddy," which is very rich in sugar. C. Cumi'ngn is a 
valuable species on account of its moderate size, rarely exceeding 
I oft., and producing a slender stem; the leaves are deep green 
and rather spreading, varying from 4ft. to 6ft. in length, and 3ft. 
in breadth. The pinnules are sub-falcate, obliquely cuneate, and 
of a rich green on both sides. This plant is extremely pretty 
when it is bearing its red berries. C. ficrfiiracea is a species 
possessing a great similarity to C. tirens, but of a more compact 
habit, producing bipinnate leaves, with pinnae varying in size as 
well as in shape, and the petioles are covered with a rusty 
tomentum ; it is a very decorative sort, and is regarded by 
botanists as synonymous with C. initis. C. soboUfera has, since 
the issue of the last edition of the " Hand-List of Tender Mono- 
cotyledons Cultivated at Kew," also been regarded as a synonym 
of C. mitis. It has a very elegant habit, resembling, in the form 
of the leaves, C. urens ; these are bipinnate (Fig. 549), and the 
pinnae are of a light green colour. The petioles are, in their 
early state, covered with a short black scaly tomentum. 
C. Riimphiana is a very distinct and elegant species, producing a 
rather stout stem, with bipinnate and spreading leaves varying 
from 3in. to Sin. in length. The pinnules are sessile, are 
inclined to be coriaceous, vary in length from 3in. to 6in., 
and are of a deep green colour. C. urens is supposed to be the 
largest-growing species of the genus. It is extremely decorative, 
producing a somewhat stout stem which furnishes a valuable 
sago ; it also yields a great quantity of palm wine. The leaves 
are bipinnate and spreading, reaching sometimes as much as 
12ft. The pinnules are obhquely cuneate and sub-coriaceous, 
varying from 6in. to loin. in length and 4in. in breadth ; they 
are dark green and shiny. 

Ceratolobus. — A genus very closely allied to Calamus^ and 
composed of only a few slender-growing species, which are very 
elegant. They are all stove-loving plants, and require similar 
treatment to Calamus. Amongst the three species known in 
cultivation, C. glaucescens is the best. This is a pretty Palm 
which is often used for table decoration. It somewhat resembles 
a Calamus in habit, producing pinnate leaves which vary from 
ift. to 2ft. in length, with cuneate pinnae, which lengthen out 
into a tail with a point, are of a deep green on the upper 
surface, and grey below ; the petioles are armed with spines, and 
are somewhat sheathing. 

Ceroxylon. — A small genus, only represented in cultivation 
by one typical species, C. andicola, the others being classed 
under Juania and Diplothemiiuii. It is a greenhouse Palm, 
which could be utilised with great success for sub-tropical 

3 G 2 



820 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



very 
The 



gardening, but care must be taken to protect it from direct 
sun as well as from winds. It requires a compost of equal 
parts loam and peat, and is increased very easily by seeds. 
C. andicola is a tall-growing species, which will thrive very well 
in an ordinary greenhouse, but grows rapidly in a stove, pro- 
ducing pinnate leaves, varying from loft. to 12ft. in length, 
supported by erect petioles, which are inclined to be ferruginous 
at the base and slightly arching at the apex. The pinn^, which 

often reach 2ft. in length, are 
acuminate; their upper surface 
is deep green and the under- 
part silvery-white. 

CHAMiEDOREA. — A vcry 
valuable and large genus of 
stove plants, extensively grow^n 
on account of their ornamental 
properties. It is represented 
in cultivation by many beauti- 
ful species ; their moderate 
size (all being slender, small- 
growing plants) renders them 
useful for indoor decoration, 
leaves are pinnate or very 
seldom entire ; the flowers are 
mostly produced on long spikes, 
and appear generally below the 
crown of leaves (as shown in Fig. 
550). The stems, which are rather 
thin, are quite unarmed. If the 
natural conditions under which 
they grow in their native countries 
are observed, shading is an essential 
point for the welfare of Chamse- 
doreas. They delight in a spongy 
compost of equal parts fibrous 
peat and loam, with a small quantity 
of sand, and need a good supply 
of moisture. They are increased 
by seeds. 

C. Arenbergiana (C. latifrons 
and C. latifolia) is a handsome 
species, producing a slender stem, with pinnate and arching 
leaves varying in length from 2ft. to 3ft. ; the pinnae, which 
often reach i2in. in length and ^in. in width, are of a beautiful 
green. C. brevifroits is quite a different species, of rather dwarf 
habit, with a slender stem ; the leaves are pinnate and arching, 
and vary from i2in. to i8in. in length; the pinn^ are sessile, 
tapering at their extremity, and of a deep green colour. 





Fig. 550. — Cham^dorea 
Sartorii. 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



821 



C. desmo7icoides (C. scande^ts) is a very pretty species in its early 
state, and when it reaches a certain size begins to cHmb. This 
has several times caused mistakes, from which has originated the 
above synonym. It produces pinnate leaves, which vary from 
2ft. to 3ft. long, and the pinnse very often reach ift. in length, 
and are pendent and dark green in colour. C. elatior is a fast- 
growing climber, useful for the decoration of large stoves. It is 
thetallest 
species of the 
genus. The 
leaves, which 
are of a splen- 
d i d green 
shade, are 
pinnate, with 
rather broad 
leaflets. C. 
elegans (C. 
Hel le r i a na 
and Kunthia 
Deppeana) is 
a species of 
very elegant 
habit, pos- 
sessing a 
some what 
stout stem 
with ])innate 
leaves, which 
vary from 2 ft. 
to 4ft. in 
length, and 
are nicely pen- 
dent; the 
pinnae, which 
also vary in 
length from 
6in. to 9in., 
are deep 
green, and 
the petioles 

are sheathing at the base. C. Ernesti-Aiigusti (C. simplicifrons) 
is a charming species, chiefly during its flowering period, the 
flowers, which are of a scarlet colour, making a fine contrast 
with the leaves ; the stem is relatively small, and the leaves are 
broader than those of any other species, and of a rich deep 
green ; they vary from i8in. to 2ft., and are not less than ift. 
in breadth. C. geonomcBformis [Nunnezharia geonofnceformis) is 




Fig. 551. — Cham^dorea graminifolia. 



822 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



another handsome dwarf-growing species, producing entire leaves, 
bifid at the apex, varying from 6in. to Sin. in length, and they 
are of a dark green colour. 

C. glancifolia is one of the most decorative of the genus, 
producing a slender stem with long and pinnate leaves ; their 
narrow, plume-like pinnse are long and slender, of a very rich 
green, suffused w^ith a glaucous hue. C. gramijiifoUa (Fig. 551) is a 
very graceful species on account of its elegant habit ; the plant in 
general has the appearance of a plume of feathers, and possesses 
a quite distinct reed-like stem ; the leaves, which vary from 2ft. 
to 4ft. in length, are pinnate, beautifully arched, and of a dark 
glaucous green, with upward pinnse. C. macrospadix is one of 
the largest-growing kinds, and is a very handsome species, 
producing a rather stout stem, with pinnate leaves, prettily 
curved, and reaching 4ft. in length ; the pinnae vary from i2in. 
to I Sin. by 2in. broad, and are of a deep green. C. Martiana 
(C atrovirens) is quite a distinct species, of very useful dwarf 
habit, producing numerous little dichotomous stems. It could 
be utilised with success for room decoration. The leaves are 
pinnate and spreading ; the pinnse, which are pendent, vary from 
6in. to 9in. long, and are of a rich green. C. microphylla is a 
pretty and rare species of elegant habit, producing some branching 
flower-spikes from under the crown of leaves ; in its earliest 
itate it has a dark green slender stem, with pinnate and arched 
leaves varying from 5in. to loin. in length; the pinnse are ovate- 
caudate, reaching 4in. long, and are a very deep green. C. oblon- 
gata (C liinata) is a very valuable species for room and table 
decoration, possessing a rather stout stem, with long pinnate leaves 
of a dark green ; the pinnse are more or less lunate. C. Sartorii 
(C. mexicana and Morenia oblongata co?tferta) is an excellent 
species, and the illustration (Fig. 550) gives a good idea of its 
beauty ; it, however, possesses a certain analogy with C. elegans^ 
although it produces longer leaves, having broader pinnse, and 
carrying a denser crown of leaves. C. tenella is a very distinct 
species, known as one of the most diminutive species of the genus 
— in fact, of the whole Natural Order. It produces some ebracteate 
and ebracteolate spikes, bearing yellow flowers ; the leaves, w^hich 
do not exceed 5in. in length and 3in. in width, have short petioles 
of a spreading habit, and are convex and bifid for a part of their 
length ; the nerves vary from eight to nine pairs. C. Tepejiloti 
is a species worth growing on account of its graceful habit, but 
unhappily it is rather rare in cultivation ; it produces a slender 
stem, with pinnate leaves, and pendent pinnae of a shiny dark 
green ; the whole plant seldom exceeds loft. in height. 
C. Warscewiczii is another elegant sort, having a slender stem, 
with long, pinnate, light green leaves, beautifully curved ; the 
pinnse are somewhat broad, sessile, and tapering to a point ; the 
terminal pinnae are broad and bifid. C. Weiidlandii is a useful 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



823 



species on account of its valuable decorative properties; it has a 
slender stem, with pinnate leaves ; the pinnae, which reach ift. 
in length by 2in. or 3in. in breadth, are sessile at the base, 
acuminate at the apex, and of a shiny green colour. 

ChamtErops. — -This small genus is only represented in cultivation 
by a few typical species, which are eminently decorative and 
thrive extremely well in greenhouses. The genus can be 
termed European, considering it reaches the sunny coasts 
of the Riviera, and the species can be successfully utilised 
for sub-tropical decoration. They are chiefly compact in 
growth, with fan-shaped leaves ; the petioles, which are clothed 




Fig. 552. — Cham^rops humilis elegans. 

with prickles, are inclosed amongst layers of coarse fibrous 
matter; the flowers vary, being sometimes perfect, and at other 
times having separate sexes. Chamgerops require a rich soil, 
composed chiefly of fibrous loam with a small portion of vegetable 
mould and sand. Drainage must also be well attended to, as 
they require a liberal supply of water during their growth. They 
are often propagated by suckers, which are thrown up in large 
quantities, or by seeds. 

C. humilis is a valuable and highly decorative European 
species, very largely grown. It presents a very attractive sight 
as an isolated plant in sub-tropical gardens. The stem, which is 
straight, is covered with rough fibres, and also by the base ot 



824 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



roots. C. h 
decoration. 



the old petioles. The leaves are glaucous on both sides, and 
are divided into narrow segments ; the petioles, which vary from 
3ft. to 4ft. in length, are provided at the edges with strong 
spines. When tall specimens are required all suckers have to be 
removed : if not the plants would assume rather a bushy aspect. 
This species can be easily propagated by suckers provided with 
elegans (Fig. 552) is a very beautiful variety for indoor 
C. h. macrocarpa is a very strong-growing variety. 

The stem is 
rather stout, 
and the leaves 
vary in colour 
from grey to 
green, shaded 
with blue. In 
its early state 
it forms a very 
handsome 
plant .for 
various decora- 
tive purposes. 
Several other 
varieties of C. 
humilis are 
known in cul- 
tivation, but 
they are all 
more or less 
closely allied. 

Chrysalido- 

CARPUS. — A 

m o n o t y p i c 
2;enus allied to 
Areca^ under 
which the 
following plant 
is classified by 
nearly every 
grower. For 
culture see 
" Areca." C. 
lutescens (Fig. 
and H. indicd) 
but rare in 
smooth and 




Fig. 553. — Chrysalidocarpus lutescens. 



553) {Areca 
is a very 
cultivation, 
swollen at 



lutescens^ Hyophorbe Conwiersonia7ia^ 
elegant and decorative species, 
It has a cylindrical caudex, 



the 



diameter. 



base, 4in. to 6in. in 
30ft. in height. The beautiful leaves are pinnate and 
with numerous lanceolate pinnae of a rich green on both 



and over 
arching, 
sides. 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 825 



Cocos. — This genus is remarkable and valuable on account 
of economic properties and decorative qualities, C. nucifera 
bearing the well-known cocoanut as well as furnishing some 
other valuable commercial products. The Cocoses are all 
extremely elegant in habit, and are mostly stove plants, requiring 
a certain amount of shade. They thrive very well in a compost 
of equal parts loam, peat, and sand, with a liberal supply of 
water during the growing period. Propagation is effected by 
seeds, which require a strong bottom-heat to germinate. Cocoses 
sometimes reach majestic proportions, and are quite free from 




Fig. 554. — Cocos australis. 



spines, their stems being smooth and ringed, and their leaves 
pinnatisect with linear segments. 

C. australis is a distinct species, rather low-growing but very 
ornamental (Fig. 554). The stems in old plants are columnar 
and erect, reaching 20ft. to 30ft. in height ; the leaves are 
pinnate, with a great number of linear glaucous pinnae. 
C. campestris (ySyagriis campestris) is a very valuable decorative 
species, distinct on account of its glaucous tint and elegant 
habit. It produces a stem with a stout base and thick, broad, 
and sheathing petioles, which have their edges covered with 
some brownish fibres, and is one of the rare armed species 



826 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



possessing a few spines on their petioles. The leaves are pinnate 
and spreading, often reaching 6ft. It seems to do extremely 
well in a greenhouse or as a sub-tropical plant during the 
summer. C. flexiiosa is a species attaining considerable size, 




Fig. 555. — Cocos Weddeliana. 

and of very elegant stature. The stem, which is rather stout at 
its base, is straight; the leaves reach sometimes loft. to 15ft. 
in length, and are partly erect and arching at the extremity ; 
the pinnae are very numerous and often reach 2ft. in length. 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 827 

C. micifera (Cocoanut), apart from its economic properties, 
is only of limited value, and it is known to present some 
cultural difficulties. In the tropics it is extremely common, 
producing an erect stem varying, according to age, from 6ft. to 
50ft. in height. The leaves are pinnate and vary from 6ft. to 
1 8ft. in length, with long, narrow, and pendent pinnae of a 
bright glossy green. C. plmnosa is a highly decorative species, 
producing a most charming contrast while in blossom. After- 
wards the flowers are replaced by numerous orange - coloured 
nuts. The stem, which is rather stout, is straight and columnar, 
and reaches 50ft. in height ; the leaves are pinnate and vary from 
3ft. to 12ft. in length ; the pinnae are clustered together in 
bunches from ift. to 2ft, long, and are of a deep green colour 
on the upper surface and glaucous below, C. Romatizoffiana 
is a useful species in its young state for many decorative 
purposes, and ought to be more cultivated. It possesses some 
long and elegantly-arched plume-like leaves ; the pinnae are long, 
pendent, and deep green, C. schizophylla is decidedly worth 
growing on account of its highly decorative properties. It 
produces long and graceful arched leaves, varying from 6ft. to 
loft. in height; the pinnse reach 2ft, in length, and are very 
narrow ; the petioles are gaily bordered with red edges, which 
are also protected with stout red spines, C. Weddeliana {Glaziova 
elega7itissimd) is certainly the most elegant and useful Palm 
which has ever been introduced into Europe (Fig. 555). It is 
not necessary to describe its ornamental properties, as it ought 
to be known by everyone. The stem is slender, and is covered 
with a quantity of black netted fibres ; the leaves, which are 
gracefully arched, vary from ift, to 4ft, in length ; the pinnae 
are long and narrow, rather pendent, deep green on the upper 
surface and glaucous below. 

CoRYPHA. — A small genus of stove plants, all very decorative, 
producing large fan-shaped leaves. The stems, or trunks, are 
very stout, tall, , cylindrical, and almost unarmed. They are 
crowned with the largest of fan-leaves, and the petioles are 
armed with sharp spines. Coryphas are not fast growers. They 
thrive very well in a strong heat, and in a compost of two 
parts fibrous loam and one part of peat and sand. Drainage 
must be carefully attended to, as water ought to be liberally 
applied through the growing period. Small plants seem to 
stand very rough treatment, and make the best of room plants. 

C. Gebanga is a rather slow-growing species, producing some 
valuable leaves used by the natives of Java for thatching and 
basket-making ; a kind of sago is also obtained from the stem. 
The glaucous, fan-shaped leaves are fully divided into narrow 
segments, and the petioles are very stout. C. Taliera is another 
species furnishing useful leaves, of which fans and umbrellas are 
made. It possesses a stout cylindrical stem, varying from 20ft. 



828 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



to 30ft. in height ; the petioles have all along their edges a 
great number of small spines ; the leaves are deep green, fan- 
shaped, and plaited. C. umbraciilifera (Talipot Palm), with its 
beautiful leaves, which are used in the same way as the species 
previously described, is also a very slow grower, but reaches in 
its native place sometimes over 100ft. high. The petioles are 
protected at their edges by a quantity of small brown spines, 
and the leaves, which are fairly large, are fan-shaped and 
plaited, forming a circle about 12ft. across. 

D^MONOROPS. — A genus closely allied to Calamus^ under 
which the species are often classified : they are all very elegant 
stove Palms, and their only distinction from Calamus exists 
in the spikes, on which the flowers are scattered ; they 
require the same treatment as Caia??ius. D. Draco {Calamus 
Draco) is a rather distinct species and of a strong constitution, 
and ought to be more largely grown ; the leaves are beautifully 
arched and pinnate, varying from 4ft. to 6ft. in length ; the 
pinnae are narrow, pendent, deep green, and vary from i2in. to 
I Sin. in length ; the petioles are sheathing at their base, and are 
protected with long black spines. D. hystrix {Calamus hystrix) 
is a species possessing a very great similarity to C. mela7tochcetes^ 
but is undoubtedly more decorative ; it is very dwarf, with 
pinnate leaves and spiny petioles. D. Jenkinsianus (^Calamus 
lenkinsianus) is a well-known species, with gracefully arched and 
pinnate leaves, varying from 2ft. to 6ft. in length ; the pinnae, 
which reach loin. or i2in., are of a beautiful dark green; the 
petioles are sheathing at the base and protected with long, flat 
spines. D. Leivisia7uis {Calamus Lewisiamis) is unfortunately 
rather rare ; it is characterised in its young state by its erect 
and pinnate leaves, varying from 2ft. to 6ft. long ; the pinn« are 
pendent, deep green, and vary from 6in. to i2in. ; the petioles 
are white, with the exception of the base, which is of a blackish- 
brown, and are extremely well protected with long black and 
flat spines. D. melajiochcefes {Calamus melanoclu^fes) is a distinct 
and ornamental plant of a very dark green colour, producing 
pinnate leaves with long, narrow, and pendent pinnae ; the 
petioles are sheathing at the base and well protected by some 
long and sharp spines, which are rather stout at the base. 
D. pale7nba?iicus {Calamus palpjnbanicus) is quite different from 
the other species ; the petioles are mostly erect, protected at their 
back by some stout spines ; the leaves are pinnate, with narrow 
drooping leaflets of a cinnamon-brown shade in their early state, 
changing to deep green when fully developed. D. plumosus is an 
elegant plant, producing some valuable plume-like, pinnate, dark 
green leaves, varying from 2ft. to 5ft. in length ; the pinnae 
reach ift., and are very narrow; the petioles are also covered 
with stout dark spines, which are whitish at the base. Very hand- 
some for indoor or table decoration. 




INTERIOR OF PALM HOUSE, KEW. 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



829 



Desmoncus. — A very ornamental genus of stove plants, dis- 
tinguished by the flowers appearing in the axils of the leaves, 
which are prickly and pinnate, with long slender stems. All the 
species are very handsome, and useful for dinner-table decora- 
tion, &c. They thrive when treated like Calamus. D. granafensis 
is an interesting species with terete petioles and spineless leaves, 
with the exception of the top, where a pair of lanceolate divergent 
pinnae are seated; the whole plant is of a lovely green colour; it 
may be placed in the greenhouse during the summer. D. mexi- 
canus is a climbing species, and may be utilised for pillar decoration; 
in its early state it is a most charming plant, possessing a slender 
stem, with pinnate leaves varying from 2oin. to 24in. long; the 
dark green pinnse often reach 6in. in length ; the petioles and 
the rachis are armed with long black spines. 

DiCTYOSPERMA. — A gcnus closely allied to Areca^ and composed 
of stove plants. The flowers, which are unisexual, are often found 
in groups of three (one female between two males) ; the leaves 
are pinnate, and the leaflets have their sides reflexed before 
unfolduig ; the species require exactly the same treatment as 
Areca., and are propagated by seeds. D. album (Areca albu7ii) is 
an ornamental species, extremely useful in its early stages for 
table decoration ; it possesses a slender stem ; the leaves are 
pinnate, and vary from 4ft. to 8ft. in length ; the petioles are 
covered with a fine white tomentum ; the pinnae, which are of a 
rich green on both sides, reach 2ft., and the whole plant is quite 
unarmed, furfuraceiim and rubrum are both varieties of this 
species, and their names easily explain their distinction. D. aureum 
[Areca aureum) is a handsome species of rather erect habit, 
producing graceful pinnate leaves with long, pendent, dark green 
pinnae, and quite distinct on account of the yellow colour 
acquired by the petioles when grown in a cooler place. 

DiPLOTHEMiUM. — A small genus of noble Palms w^hich can, 
if grown in an intermediate house, be utilised for sub-tropical 
gardening. They are nearly stemless, or sometimes develop a 
small ringed stem. The leaves are pinnate, with linear segments 
of a. silvery colour underneath. The plants grow admirably in a 
strong compost — two parts of loam and one part of peat and sand 
— and are propagated by seeds. D. caudescens {Ceroxylon 7iiveum) 
may be described as one of the prettiest of the whole order ; 
it seems to be quite stemless in cultivation, but is decorative 
from its early state. The leaves are pinnate, and vary from 
2ft. to 6ft. in length ; the pinn^ are clustered, and sometimes 
attain a length of 2ft.; their surface is of a shiny green, and 
they have a silvery appearance. D. maritimum is closely allied 
to the preceding, but remains smaller ; its pinnate leaves have 
more of an ovate outline; the pinnae are also of a deep green 
on the upper surface and rather grey underneath. 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Elaeis. — A small genus represented by only two typical 
species ; these are, however, very remarkable on account of their 
valuable economic properties, for they furnish the well - known 
palm-oil of commerce ; they are also classed amongst our 
decorative Palms. Elaeis are distinct by their bright red 
fruits ; the leaves are pinnatisect, and are borne on strong 
prickly stalks. Like all tropical Palms, the plants require stove 
treatment. They are sometimes increased by suckers, but the 
most successful method of propagation is by seeds. E. gumeensis 
is the African species which is so well known for the production 
of oil. It is an intermediate sort, the stem of which reaches 
sometimes 30ft. in height, and supports a beautiful crown of 
pinnate leaves, varying from 15ft. in length, and deep green in 
colour ; in its early state it may be usefully employed for 
decorative purposes. E. melanococca, from Tropical America, 
possesses in some respects the same properties as its African 
relative, producing also a large quantity of oil. It is rather 
smaller in habit compared with the preceding. 

Euterpe. — A genus composed of extremely elegant tall- 
growing stove Palms, represented in cultivation by eight or nine 
species. The stems are always clean and naked straight up to 
the leaves, which are pinnatisect, with narrow, linear-lanceolate 
segments of a light green colour. Euterpes require a consider- 
able amount of heat as well as a rich loamy soil. Some 
of the species are largely cultivated on account of their beauty 
when young. Propagated by seeds. E. ediilis reaches from 
40ft. to 1 00ft. in height, and has a cylindrical stem, or trunk, 
supporting a bunch of lanceolate and acuminate leaves. The 
rachis and nerves are scaly beneath. E. montana is another 
Palm of economic value, the terminal bud as well as the soft 
inner part of the stem being used as a fresh vegetable. The 
stem varies in height from 40ft. to 60ft. The petioles are scaly 
beneath, and the leaves are lanceolate, spreading, and attenuated. 
E. oleracea (Cabbage Palm) has an extremely hard trunk, 
reaching in some cases over 120ft. in height. The leaves are 
lanceolate-linear, acuminate, and glabrescent ; a handsome 
species in its early state. 

Geonoma. — A very large genus, characterised by the dwarf 
habit of its species, which are all more or less stove-loving ones. 
They are to a certain extent allied to Chamcedorea^ but do not 
possess such good decorative properties. The flowers, which are 
monoecious, are borne on simple or branched spikes. The 
leaves are entire or somewhat pinnately divided, and of a light 
shining green in most cases. Geonomas require a rather spongy 
soil, composed of two parts of fibrous peat and one of loam, and 
a liberal supply of water. In some cases they may be placed in 
pots partly plunged in water which is slightly increased in heat. 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



when they will thrive splendidly. All are extremely elegant in 
their early state. They are sometimes propagated by suckers, 
but fresh seeds are always preferable. 

G. biiiervia is a handsome species, having a slender stem, with 
pinnate and pendent leaves varying from 2ft. to 4ft. in length ; 
the pinnae, which vary from 6in. to i2in., are dark green; the 
petioles are quite distinct on account of the network in which 
they are enveloped. In G. congesta, an elegant sort with a stem 
of moderate size, the petioles are sheathing at the base, and 
bear leaves varying from ift. to 2ft. long, entire or with a bifid 
apex, and sometimes divided into wide segments. G. elegans 
produces a slender reed-like stem with sheathing petioles ; the 
leaves, which are of a bright pink when young, change to a deep 
green when developed ; they seldom exceed ift. in length, and 
have some terminal pinn^. G. ferriiginea is another slender- 
stemmed variety, with beautifully arched petioles supporting arched 
leaves; the pinn^ vary from ift. to 2ft. in length, and from 6in. 
to Sin. in width. G. gracilis^ an elegant plant of rather dwarf 
habit, is in some respects similar to the handsome Cocos 
Weddeliana^ but has some pinnate and arched leaves, with long 
deep green pinnae ; it is a useful plant for table decoration. 

G. macrostachys is a graceful plant, producing a slender 
stem; the petioles, which are sheathing at the base, are of a 
bright brown colour, and covered with a scaly tomentum ; the 
leaves are mostly divided into wide segments. This species 
throws up suckers in large numbers, by which means it may be 
increased. G. magnifica is another handsome species, producing 
a rather stout stem, with sheathing and blackish petioles ; the 
leaves are plaited, vary from 2ft. to 3ft. in length, and have 
unequal pinnfe. G. Martiana^ and the species known as 
G. Seeinan?ii, have nearly the same characteristics. G. Martiana 
is a highly decorative species, producing some beautiful leaves, 
which, when developed, are of a deep metallic green ; the stem is 
stout and the petioles are sheathing at the base ; the leaves are 
reddish-crimson in their young state, vary from ift. to 2 ft. long, 
and are narrow at the base. Both are well worth growing, 
G. Porteana^ a handsome species, has a rather smooth and 
slender stem, with pinnate leaves varying in length from ift. to 
2ft., beautifully arched, and with sessile pinnas ; it is rather rare 
in cultivation, and ought to be more largely grown. G. procumbens 
has often been acknowledged as the most beautiful of the genus on 
account of its noble habit ; the stem is stout ; the leaves are 
pendent, pinnate, and vary from 2ft. to 4ft. in length, with 
pendent pinnae of a deep green colour. G. imdata is a strong- 
growing and very decorative species ; its stout stem is sometimes 
i2in. in circumference; the petioles, which are sheathing, are 
covered with a rough fibrous tissue at the base ; the leaves are 
arching and irregularly pinnate, and the pinnae are plaited and of 



832 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

a deep green colour. Many other species are in cultivation, but 
the preceding are the best. 

Hedyscepe. — This monotypic genus, which has been for so 
many years combined with Areca, is represented by a very 
handsome, rather fast-growing stove Palm, H. canterburyana 
{Ketttia canterburyana), requiring exactly the same treatment 
as Areca. It comes from Lord Howe's Island, attains some 




Fig. 556. — Hedyscepe canterburyana. 



20ft. to 30ft. in height, and has a stout stem which, as well 
as the petioles, is unarmed. The leaves are pinnate, robust, 
and of a rich green colour. This species is actually grown 
by thousands on account of its valuable decorative properties 
(Fig. 556). 

HowEA is only represented by two typical stove species of 
extreme beauty, natives of Lord Howe's Island. They have been 
for many years classified under Keiitia (which see for culture), 
which they much resemble in habit ; they are largely cultivated for 
the trade. H. Bebnoreana {Grisebachia Belmoreana and Ke?itta 
Belmoreajia) is a very attractive plant, commonly called by the 
natives the " Curly-leaved Palm " ; the stem, which attains some 
35ft. in height, supports a splendid head of leaves which vary 
from 6ft. to 8ft. long, with a quantity of acuminate segments ; 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



833 



the leaflets have a distinctly curly appearance. H. Forsteriana 
{Kentia Forsteriana)^ the Thatch Palm, is a highly decorative 
Palm of rather robust habit ; it seems to be very closely allied 
to the preceding, the principal distinction being in the leaf 
segments, which mostly hang, while in the other species they 
are inclined to turn upwards. 

Hyophorbe. — A genus of stove plants, only represented in 
cultivation by two or three typical species, all of which possess 
some decorative properties, and are decidedly worth growing. 
The flowers, which are disposed in spikes, are pure white, and 
their berries, which resemble Olives, are one-seeded. The leaves ' 
are terminal and pinnate, and the stems are unarmed. They 
thrive in a compost of equal parts loam and peat, and need a 
good supply of water. H. amaricaulis [Areca speciosa) is rather 
stout and robust in habit ; the stem as well as the petioles are 
very thick, of a deep maroon colour ; the pinnate leaves are erect 
in their early state, and spreading when fully developed ; the 
pinnae are stout, broad, and acuminated. H. Vers chaff eltii {Areca 
Verschaffeltii) is a beautiful plant. A curious distinction is that the 
sheath of the leaves forms a kind of triangular, columnar stem ; 
the pinnate leaves vary from 4ft. to 6ft. long, are nearly erect, and 
splendidly arching at the top ; and the pinnae are linear-lanceolate 
and acuminate. 

HYPHif:NE. — Amongst the plants composing this genus only 
one seems to be in cultivation (ZT. thebaica, the Gingerbread 
Palm), and that a stove one, with unarmed stem of moderate 
size; it is simple in its young state, or dichotomously branched when 
fully developed. The leaves are terminal, with sword-shaped acute 
or bifid segments ; and the flowers are dioecious, the males being 
in twos and the females always solitary. It presents a certain 
amount of cultural difficulties. 

Iriartea. — This small genus of stove Palms is extremely 
distinct in habit. The stems are supported by a number of 
cone-like aerial roots. The leaves are pinnate, with trapezoid 
pinn^. These plants are somewhat rare in collections, and no 
doubt that is due to their being grown in too dry a place. They 
succeed fairly well when their pots are partly plunged in water, 
and they require a sandy compost. /. deltoidea (7. robusta), the 
species best known in cultivation, is very attractive ; it is entirely 
spineless, with pinnate leaves and broad sessile pinn^, erose at 
the apex; the petioles are round and sheathing at the base. 

JUB^A. — Another striking monotypic genus, represented by a 
very useful species {/. spectabilis) for sub-tropical gardening, and 
growing splendidly under greenhouse treatment. The flowers, 
which are deep yellow, are disposed in branching spikes, and 
enclosed in a double spathe. When fully developed, this species 
forms one of the noblest Palms amongst our greenhouse kinds. 

3 H 



834 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

It produces a stout and cylindrical stem, bearing a beautiful 
crown of leaves, which are pinnate, spreading, and vary from 
6ft. to 12 ft. in length; the pinnae often measure i8in. long, rising 
in pairs from almost the same place, and standing out in quite 
different positions ; the petioles, which are covered with a mass 
of brown fibres, are rather thick at the base. This plant also 
possesses a valuable economic property. From its sap is obtained 
a kind of syrup, which, after being boiled, forms "Palm honey." 
Jub^as require a rich compost of two parts loam and one part 
each of peat or leaf-mould and sand. Propagated by seeds. 

Kentia.- — A very old and well-known genus, which was for 
many years combined with Areca, Now it has not only been 
separated from Areca, but much subdivided, being reduced to 
half-a-dozen, amongst which only three are known in cultivation. 
Others formerly included here are now classified under Cypho- 
sperina, Nedyscepe, Ifydriasfele, Hoivea, Kentiopsis^ Rhopalostylis^ 
Veikhia, &c. The flowers of Kentias are disposed on branched 
spikes. The leaves are terminal, and regularly pinnatisect ; the 
segments are linear-lanceolate. Kentias require a rich and 
sandy compost of equal parts of loam, peat, and sand, and also 
a liberal supply of water as well as a saturated atmosphere. They 
may be easily propagated by seeds. K. ausiralis is well worth 
growing, being extremely decorative in its young state ; it is of 
slender habit, and has long pinnate leaves of a shiny dark green. 
K. costata, a very ornamental species in its young state, reaches 
in its native country a height of Soft, to 90ft. ; the leaves, 
which are pinnatisect, have a great number of linear-lanceolate 
segments ; the spadix is branched. 

Kentiopsis. — A small genus, composed chiefly of species 
removed from the preceding genus. All are extremely valuable 
for their decorative properties, and require exactly the same treat- 
ment as Kentias. K. divai-icata {Kentia gracilis) is a beautiful 
species, quite distinct, reaching in its native country 30ft. in 
height, and very useful in its young state for table decoration ; 
. the leaves are pinnate, and the alternate leaflets are leathery and 
of a fine red colour when young. K. inacrocajpa {Kentia Lindeni) 
is a very handsome plant of strong constitution and extremely 
ornamental ; it has a stout, smooth stem, with red petioles ; the 
leaves are pinnate, ovate, and of a deep olive-crimson in their 
young state ; the pinnfe, which are rather distant, are oblong and 
lanceolate ; the fruits are fairly large. K. olivceforniis is also in 
cultivation. 

Latania. — K genus represented in cultivation by a few stove 
species, which are all extremely decorative and may successfully be 
removed during the summer months into the greenhouse. The 
stems, which are marked with circular scars, bear at their 
extremity a splendid crown of fan-shaped leaves. The flowers are 
unisexual, and males and females are produced on different 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



plants. Latanias require a substantial compost of two-thirds loam 
and one-third peat and sand. Water must be applied generously 
during the growing period. Propagated by seeds. Z. Commersoni 
(L. rubra), a noble and distinct species, has a smooth and 
slender stem ; the petioles are also smooth, long, and of a beautiful 
deep red ; the cuneate and recurved leaves are of a shiny green, 
and the segments are ornamented by reddish edges or bands. 
L. Loddigesii (Z. glaucophylld) is a tall and handsome species, 
very seldom showing its stem in cultivation except when the 
plant has fully developed its leaves ; the petioles, which vary 
from 3ft. to 8ft. in length, are rather stout, of a glaucous green ; 
the palmate, shining-green leaves have a glaucous hue, and vary 
from 2ft. to 4ft. ; the segments are very broad. Z. Verschaffeltii 
(Z. aurea) is another beautiful species ; its rather stout stem is 
of moderate height ; the petioles are also stout, erect, and of a 
glaucous hue at the base, reaching 3ft. to 4ft. high, and bearing 
large palmate leaves, which are divided into numerous narrow 
segments of a fine green colour on both sides. 

LicuALA. — A quite distinct genus, composed of handsome fan- 
leaved plants of rather compact habit, requiring very moist stove 
treatment and general culture like Geonomas. The flower-spikes, 
which are branching, have a quantity of incomplete spathes, 
and the leaves are terminal, with prickly stalks. The species 
thrive I'n a compost of two parts peat and one part sandy 
loam, and they are easily propagated by seeds. Only a few 
are in cultivation. Z. elegans is a handsome species but rather 
slow-growing. The petioles are 2ft. to 3ft. long, and bear some 
fine fan-shaped leaves, which are in most cases split down to 
the petiole. The segments are plaited, vary from i2in. to i8in. 
in length, and are bright green. Z. grandis {Pritchardia 
grandis) is quite a distinct variety, producing a stem which often 
reaches loin. in circumference, and from 4ft. to 6ft. in height, 
covered with a pretty crown of bright green leaves. The petioles 
vary from 2ft. to 3ft. in length and are slender and spiny. This 
species flowers freely when it attains the size mentioned. 
Z. peltata is another elegant species, with digitate, fan-shaped, 
dark green leaves ; these are divided into segments straight down 
to the petioles, which are somewhat prickly on the margins. 
Z. spinosa {L. horrida), which was previously regarded as 
synonymous with Z. Rumphii, is now classed as a typical species. 
Z. Rumphii is also a distinct sort. It is a quite characteristic 
species on account of its enormous spines, which protect the 
stout petioles. The leaves are large, deep green, and fan- 
shaped. An extremely decorative stove plant. Z. Jeannencyi is 
a very elegant Palm, with fan-shaped, much-divided fronds 
reaching right to the base. 

LiviSTONA. — A remarkable and useful genus on account of 
the decorative properties of its species, most of which are 

3 H 2 



836 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



grown in large quantities for the trade. Some of them, e.g., 
L. anstralis and Z. chi7tejisis, are excellent for sub-tropical 
gardening. The leaves, which are terminal, are fan-shaped, 
divided into many segments, and supported by stout petioles 
mostly enclosed at their base in a mass of netted fibres. 

The stem 
in some species 
is stout, and 
reaches enor- 
mous heights. 
The flower- 
spikes, which are 
branched, are 
thrown out from 
between the 
leaves, and the 
flowers are per- 
fect. Livistonas 
thrive splen- 
didly in a strong 
compost of two 
parts loam and 
one of peat and 
sand. AVater 
must be abundantly 
supplied through the 
growing period. They 
are easily propagated 
by seeds. L. altisswia 
is a very tall Palm 
when fully developed, 
forming a rather stout 
stem, or trunk, but it 
is very handsome in 
its early state ; the 
leaves, which, as 
well as the segments, 
are very large, are 
of a shiny green, 
and are supported by 
petioles varying 
from 2ft. to 6ft. long, 
which are enclosed 
base in a brown network, and are also armed 
side with stout spines. L. australis {Corypha 
is a well-known species, grown in large quantities ; 
somewhat stout stem and petioles, which latter 
and are enclosed in a fibrous network ; 




Fig. 557. — LiviSTONA australis. 



at their 
on each 
australis) 
it has a 
are deep brown, 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AXD BAMBOOS. 



the leaves, which are nearly 
circular, are also divided 
into narrow segments of a 
beautiful green colour ; it is an 
excellent species for general use 
(Fig. 557). L. chinensis {^Latania 
borboiiica and Livistona maiiri- 
tiana) is another well - known 
species, and is largely used for 
sub-tropical gardening in the 
Southern countries. Its constitu- 
tion is pretty strong. The stem 
is some^vhat stout, and the 
petioles, which vary from 4ft. to 
5 ft. long, are flat above, rounded 
below,, have small spines along 
their edges, and are protected 
at the base by a brown fibrous 
tissue. L. Hoogendorpii seems 
rather rare in cultivation. 




Fig. 



0:) 



8. — LiVISTOXA HOOGEX- 
DORPII. 



to be 
habit 



but on account of its decorative 



it ought to be more largely grown 




Fig. 559. — LiviSToxA rotuxdifolia. 



its blackish-brown 
petioles are enclosed 
at their base in a 
reddishfibrous tissue, 
and provided at the 
edges with stout and 
sharp spines ; the 
leaves, which form 
a complete 
circle, are of a 
rich deep green 
colour and 
deeply divided 
(Fig. 558)- L. 

h U 771 I 1 1 s {L. 

i?ier77iis and L. 
Leichardtii) is 
very handsome 
when young; when 
fully developed it has 
a stout stem sur- 
mounted by a large 
crown of leaves. It 
is very useful for 
greenhouse or sub- 
tropical gardening 
durinsf the summer 
months. The petioles 



838 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



are armed at their edges with numerous spines ; the leaves 
are large, spreading, and deeply divided into narrow segments 
of a dark green colour. Z. Jenkinsiana is a handsome sort for 
the greenhouse, seldom exceeding loft. in height. The petioles 
vary from 2ft. to 9ft. in length, are rather keeled below, and 
fiat on the upper side, the edges being protected by stout, 
sharp spines. The leaves are fan-shaped, varying from 2ft. to 
4ft. across, and the margin is divided into bread segments of a 
rich deep green colour. L. rotwidifolia is a pretty and useful 
stove species, extremely ornamental in its young state. The stem 
sometimes reaches 40ft. or 50ft. in height ; the petioles vary 
from 6ft. to 7ft. in length, and are protected by sharp spiny 
teeth ; the leaves are nearly round (Fig. 559), and vary from 3ft. 
to 5ft. in diameter. 

LoDOiCEA. — This very distinct monotypic genus is represented 
by an interesting stove species (Z. sechellarum), somewhat rare in 
cultivation and known as Coco de Mer and Double Cocoanut ; 
it reaches a height of from 50ft. to looft., and it has a somewhat 
cylindrical stem, or trunk, sometimes ift. in diameter, which 
supports a beautiful crowa of large fan-shaped leaves, some 20ft. 
long, and from 5ft. to 6ft. wide. The chief requirements for its 
successful cultivation are a rich compost of mostly loam, leaf- 
mould, and sand, good drainage, and an abundant supply of heat 
and moisture. The seeds are some of the biggest known, and 
they sometimes weigh about 4olb. ; they require a very strong 
heat for germination. This Palm seems to do fairly well when 
the pot is partly plunged into water at a temperature varying 
between Sodeg. and 85deg., as it is grown in the Royal Gardens, 
Kew. 

Maximiliana. — This small genus is very similar to Cocos, to 
which it seems to be closely allied, and contains some of the 
noblest Palms known. The stems, or trunks, are slender and 
smooth ; the flower-spikes are branched and covered with a 
woody spathe ; the leaves are large and pinnate, with narrow 
segments. All the species are beautiful, but only two or three 
are cultivated. They require exactly the same treatment as Cocos. 
M. Martiana {M. regia) is a decorative plant in its early state, 
and may be utilised both for the stove and for house decoration. 
The caudex is erect and unarmed ; the leaves are pinnate, and 
reach, when fully developed, from 30ft. to 40ft. in length ; the 
pinnae are often 2ft. long, but are rather narrow, pendent, and of 
a deep green colour. M. caribea, another species in cultivation, 
is very similar to the above. 

Nephrosperma. — This monotypic genus is represented by an 
extremely elegant and distinct stove species which has been for 
many years classified under Oncosperma. It is a very useful 
plant in its young state for all kinds of indoor decoration ; it 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



requires a good fibrous compost and a liberal supply of water. 
A\ Van-Honttea7ia i^Oncosperma Van-Houtteaiia and Areca iiobilis) 
may always be recognised by its spiny petioles, which are rather 
short and of a brick-red colour, bearing pinnate leaves gracefully 
arched ; the pendent pinnae are of a bright green. In its native 
country this Palm reaches a height of from 20ft. to 40ft. 

Oncosperma, a very distinct genus composed of stove species 
bearing spiny stolons ; they are very closely allied to Acantho- 
phoenix, but the latter has an erect and single stem. Oncospermas 
are only represented in cultivation by two or three species, 
which are, however, extremely decorative. The stems are 
slender and spiny ; the leaves are terminal and equally 
pinnatisect; the foot-stalks are sheathing and very spiny. These 
plants require a light compost of two parts good peat and one 
each of loam and sand, and enjoy copious supplies of water. 
Propagated by seeds, and often by suckers. O. fasciculata is a 
beautiful stove plant, with pinnate leaves of a deep green: the 
pinnae are rather pendent and long, and the petioles are sheathing 
and covered with slender dark spines. O. filamentosa {Areca 
tigillaria) is a pretty 
species in its young state, 
but reaches in its native 



country 40ft. 
height : the. 
pinnate, and 
loft. to 12ft 
pinnae are very numerous, 
narrow, and drooping. 



to 50ft. in 
leaves are 

vary from 

long ; 



the 




Oreodoxa. — Another 
small but handsome genus 
of Palms, represented in 
cultivation by three or 
four elegant unarmed 
stove species with long 
pinnate leaves; the 
petioles are broadly clasp- 
ing, and the stems are 
slender and ringed ; the 
flowers are white, sm.all, 
and monoecious, and the 
fruits are ovoid or oblong- 
ovoid. Oreodoxas may be 
employed with success for 

greenhouse and sub-tropical gardening during the summer months 
but care must be taken to protect them from rough winds, cS:c. 
They thrive in a compost of loam, peat, and sand in equal parts, 
O. granatensis is not very well known, but is extremely useful, 



Fig. 5G0. 



-Orf.odoxa Saxcona. 



840 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



especially in its young state ; it has a smooth stem, with pinnate 
leaves and long, narrow, somewhat drooping segments. O. oleracea 
is another elegant species, also known by its production of a 
kind of sago obtained from its stem, which is slender, rather 
swollen at the base, and freckled with blackish-brown ; the leaves, 
which are pinnate, vary from 4ft. to 6ft. long, and are beautifully 
arched; the segments are bright green, and ift. to 2ft. in length. 
O. regia is a beautiful slender-growing species, with pinnate leaves 
varying from 3ft. to 6ft. in length ; the pinnse are of a shiny 
green colour, 6in. to i2in. long, and about lin. in breadth. 
O. Sancona is a valuable plant for indoor decoration (Fig. 560), 
and it may be used as a substitute for Cocos and others ; it also 
seems to be an easily-grown species, and is very distinct when 
young by reason of its reddish leaf-stalks. 

Phcenix. — A genus well represented in cultivation. Its species 
are very valuable, not only for their useful decorative properties, 
but also for the economic value of some of them. They are 
chiefly greenhouse plants, only a few requiring stove treatment. 
They are extremely useful for sub-tropical gardening and for 
all decorative purposes. The stems, or trunks, vary a great deal, 




Fig. 561. — Phcenix canartensis. 



being sometimes rather erect while other species appear to be 
nearly stemless. When erect the stems are marked with the 
scars of the old leaves. The leaves are terminal and spreading, 
with elongate-lanceolate segments. The flowers are found on 
long spikes, which rise from amongst the leaves. The fruits 
are fleshy and one-seeded, those of P. dactylifera (Dates) being 
very familiar to us. Phoenix can easily be propagated by 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 84 1 

seeds, but this is an extremely slow process. Many of the 
nurserymen used at one time to grow them from seed, but 
now prefer to import the plants from Southern countries, such 
as places along the Riviera, where they are grown in the open 
in enormous quantities to supply all the Northern towns. When 
raised from seeds the young plants require a rather light com- 
post, but in the case of imported or old-estabHshed specimens 




Fig. 562, — Phcenix reclinata. 



loam and sand will be sufficient. A liberal supply of water is 
necessary. 

P. acaulis is a valuable species for decorative purposes, of 
rather compact habit, having a small thick stem, surmounted by 
a fine crown of pinnate and spreading leaves, varying from ift. 
to 3ft. ; the pinnae are narrow and stout at the base, the lower 
ones being transformed into stout spines, P. canarie?isis {P. temiis 
and P. Jubae) is extensively grown in the nurseries in the 
Mediterranean regions, and is decidedly the most useful species for 



842 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



decorative purposes ; it may be described as a P. dactjlifera, 
only of slenderer habit (Fig. 561). P. dactylifei-a (true Date 
Palm) grows very freely under greenhouse treatment, and can be 
used with success for indoor decoration when young; the leaves 
are pinnate, long, and of a deep green ; the pinnse are linear- 
lanceolate, and stand out nearly straight : it reaches in its native 
country a height varying from looft. to 120ft. P. farinifera 
is another compact species of elegant stature, with pinnate 
leaves varying from 3ft. to 4ft. long, and ovate acuminate pinnae 
6in. long, the lower ones being transformed into stout spines. 
P. humilis is the smallest species of the genus, possessing bulbous 
stems only ift. long ; the leaves vary from 2ft. to 3ft.5 with 
conduplicate pinnules, the lower ones being often transformed 



cultivation ; the leaves are pinnate and spreading, with 
narrow pinnae reaching about 6in in length, the lower ones 
being transformed into sharp spines (Fig. 563). P. sylvestris 
possesses a great similarity to P. dactylife7'a, producing greyish- 
green leaves varying from 7ft. to 12ft. long, with a multitude of 
alternate and opposite pinn^, which often reach iSin. in length; 
it is one of the most robust Palms, and can be utilised for 
sub-tropical gardening during the whole of the summer (Fig. 564). 

Phytelephas. — A genus of compact plants, very ornamental 
in their young state, and thriving fairly well in a greenhouse 
throughout the summer, but requiring stove heat during the 
winter. Only two species seem to be cultivated at the present 
time. P. macrocarpa is well known for its fruits, which furnish 
a kind of ivory used for making numerous small ornaments. The 
Phytelephas are unarmed, and comparatively robust. The leaves 




Fig. 563. — Phcenix rupicola. 



into short and sharp spines ; 
it is very useful for decorative 
purposes ; there are also half- 
a-dozen varieties of P. Jmmilis^ 
all closely allied to the typical 
one. P. 7'ecli?iata (P. zanzi- 
barejisis) is a large and free- 
growing species of robust con- 
stitution, which could be used 
with success for sub-tropical 
gardening ; when the plant 
attains a certain number of 
years it produces a stout 
stem, bearing elegant pinnate 
leaves ; the spreading pinnae 
are of a triangular shape (Fig. 
562). P. rupicola is a very 
remarkable species and the 
noblest of the genus, but 
unfortunately still rare in 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



843 



are terminal and pinnatisect, with a quantity of segments, the 
upper ones being opposite and the lower ones alternate — this is 
one of the most distinct characters of the genus. The plants 
thrive splendidly in a rich compost of two parts good loam and 




one of peat and sand, and require an abundant supply of water 
during the growing period. Propagated by seeds. P. mac?'ocarpa 
produces the vegetable ivory of commerce ; it forms a somewhat 
creeping stem, with beautifully arched rich deep green leaves, 
varying from 15ft. to 20ft. in length, with rather long pinnae, and 



844 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



is well worth growing. P. microcarpa is a quite distinct stemless 
species, producing very small fruits ; the lanceolate leaves some- 
times reach 24ft,, and are provided with a great number of pinnae. 

PiNANGA. — These plants are practically closely allied to the 
old Seaforthia tribe, but now form a quite distinct genus. They 
are seldom met with in collections. The species produce long 
and slender stems with a fine and elegant effect ; the leaves 
are terminal, unequally cut or pinnatisect, or sometimes simply 
bifid at the apex. The plants can be used with success in their 
young state for table decoration. They thrive under stove 
treatment in a compost of loam, peat, and sand in equal 
quantities. A generous supply of water is also required. 
Propagated by seeds. P. maculata is an elegant species, but 
unfortunately rather rare in cultivation ; it has a smooth slender 
stem, with pinnate leaves and broad and sessile pinnae of a shiny 
green, their surface being sometimes spotted with olive -green 
macules. P. patula is a beautiful compact plant with an erect 
and smooth stem somewhat swollen at the base ; the leaves, 
which are unequally pinnate and sheathing at the base, vary 
from 4ft. to 5ft. in length. P. Veitchii is one of the best 
species of the genus, highly decorative, but rather rare in 
cultivation ; the leaves are oblong and truncate, deeply two- 
lobed at the apex, mottled green on the upper surface, and a 
rich claret colour below. Many others could be mentioned, but 
the above are the best species. 

Plectocomia. — A genus composed of stove plants of climbing 
habits and possessing a certain resemblance to Calamus. All the 
species are extremely decorative in their young state, and do not 
present any cultural difficulties. They require a compost of equal 
parts loam and peat, and are successfully propagated by suckers, 
which are easily obtained. The leaves are large and pinnate, 
and produce at their extremities long tails provided with a sharp 
set of stout spines. P. assamica is a handsome species, producing 
splendid arched leaves rather broad and deeply bifid in their 
early state ; the upper surface is dark green, whilst the under 
part is covered with a fine powdery white, which gives to the 
species quite a characteristic appearance. P. elongata is a very tall 
climbing species, producing a stout stem at the base ; the young 
leaves are broad, deeply bifid, and of a deep green, and when 
fully developed often attain 20ft. in length ; the petioles are pro- 
tected with long and sharp spines. P. himalayana forms a quite 
distinct variety, extremely elegant in its young state, producing 
some ample leaves with alternate, linear-lanceolate pinnules ; the 
margins are shortly toothed, and the pinnule-bearing part of the 
petioles is protected by stout prickles. 

Pritchardia. — A genus composed of handsome, unarmed, stove 
Palms, with large and terminal leaves and narrow segments, bifid 



ON PALIMS. CYCADS, AND BA:vIBOOS. 



845 



at the apex and induplicate, and with concave petioles. Pritchardias 
require hght soil, composed chiefly of peat and sand, with a small 
portion of loam; and a good supply of water is necessary through 
the growing period. Increased by seeds, which require a strong 
heat to germinate. P. viaa-ocarpa is a species producing large 
leaves, divided into numerous linear-lanceolate segments ; it is 
allied to P. ATartii, and is a highly ornamental robust Palm, 
well worth growing. P. Martii forms a handsome stove Palm, but 
seems to be the most delicate of the genus as far as culture is 
concerned ; it produces flabelliform and plaited leaves of a deep 




Fig. 565.— Pritchardia Vuylstekiana. 



green ; the petioles are quite smooth and unarmed, and are partly 
enclosed at the base in brown fibres ; the seeds are extremely small 
compared with P. pacifica^ to which it has a great similarity. 
P. padjica, an unarmed species, is rather robust and easily 
grown compared with the others ; it is also the most decorative 
plant for the stove ; the petioles are quite distinct, and are 
covered with a white scaly tomentum, partly enclosed at the 
base in brown fibres, and bearing large, flabellate, bright green 
leaves. P. Vuyhtekiajia is another decorative species of rather 



846 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



compact habits, in its young state producing large deep green 
leaves, supported by a short petioles; the stem is somewhat 
stout (Fig. 565). 

Raphia. — A stove genus, decorative when well grown, but 
unfortunately presenting a certain amount of cultural difficulties. 



The stems, or trunks, vary a 



great 



deal 



the petioles are cylin- 
drical or convex at 
the base, and flat 
above, supporting 
some long and ter- 
minate leaves with 
linear -lanceolate seg- 
ments. Raphias can 
be grown as mentioned 
for Geonomas, by 
partly plunging the 
pots in the water of 
the tank, which 
must in this in- 
stance be kept 
on the warm 
side. R.pediin- 
culat a {R . 
Ruffid) is a 
distinct spe- 
cies, producing 
pinnate leaves 
varying from 2ft. to 
6ft. in length, with 
shining green pinn^ 
loin. to i2in. long ; 
the petioles are un- 
armed, and partly pro- 
tected by coarse 
fibres. R. tcedigera is 
the most ornamental 
species of the genus, 
being handsome in 
every respect, chiefly 
in its young state ; 
the stem remains of a 
moderate size, but the 
leaves are sometimes 
enormous, varying 

from 40ft. to 50ft. in height, and forming a splendid plume- 
like crown. R. vi?iifera (Bamboo or Wine Palm) is also a 
moderate- sized tree, producing leaves varying from 6ft. to 7ft. 
in length, with spiny leaflets. 




Fig. 566. — Rhapis flabelliformis. 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



847 



Rhapis. — A genus represented in cultivation by three or four 
typical slender-growing plants, which form a very ornamental 
greenhouse group, with fan-shaped leaves, deeply cut into 
numerous segments. Rhapis are very robust, and grow nearly 
everywhere. They produce a great quantity of suckers, which 
may be successfully utilised for reproduction ; these only require 
to be detached with care, just retaining a few roots. In the 
case of young suckers a light soil must be used, but for 
established plants a strong compost, as recommended for 
Chamccrops^ must be employed. R. flabelliformis [R. aspera) is 
certainly the best species of the genus, and may be employed 
for decorative purposes at any time. In its early state it forms 
an attractive and robust table- 
decoration plant, on account of 
its persistent and petioled leaves, 
divided into five or seven 
The stem rarely 
in cultivation, 
diameter. It is 
plant for sub- 
gardening (Fig. 



segments, 
exceeds, 
i|in, in 
a good 
tropical 

566). There is also a 
variegated form. R. hiimilis 
{R. Sirotsik) is closely 
allied to R. flabelliformis^ 
but produces larger leaves, 
with more pendent seg- 
ments, which increase its 
beauty. It may be used 
with great success for table 
decoration, &c. 

Rhopalostylis. — A 
handsome but small genus, 
very well known by growers, 
and for many years classi- 
fied under Areca. The 
two elegant species in 
cultivation belong to the 
unarmed greenhouse 
Palms; they produce 
terminal leaves, with 
numerous narrow segments, 

and very short petioles. They require exactly the same treatment 
as Arecas. R. Baueri {Areca Baueri and Seajorthia robiista) 
is very well known and largely cultivated ; it has elegant pinnate 
leaves, from 6ft. to 12ft. long, the pinnae varying from iSin. to 2ft. ; 
it often reaches a height of 20ft. in our houses, but when young 
forms one of the finest plants for table decoration (Fig. 567). 




Fig. 567. — Rhopalostylis Baueri. 



848 



THE BOOK OF GARDENIMG. 



i?. sapida {Areca sapida and Kentia sapidd) is another 
elegant Palm, of more compact habit than the preceding, 
producing some splendid pinnate leaves 4ft. to 6ft. long ; 
the pinnae are very narrow, linear - lanceolate, and clothed 
with minute scales. This plant is also very useful for table 
decoration. 

Sabal. — A genus of noble fan-leaved stove and greenhouse 
Palms, some of which are often utilised in sub - tropical 
gardening. In their young state they are very decorative, and 
often reach enormous sizes both in houses and when planted out 
(as they are in some Southern counties). Sabals in general are 
extremely robust, and should be more largely grown on account 
of their valuable properties. They require a rich but light 
compost, such as a good fibrous loamy soil. Suckers are some- 
times thrown up, and may be utilised for reproduction, but seeds 
are to be preferred. S. Adansoni is to a certain extent half- 
hardyj of rather dwarf habit, and a slow grower; it is a handsome 
decorative variety, and may be employed for sub-tropical gardening 
with great success. The flabelliform leaves are supported by 
petioles varying from 2ft. to 3ft. in length ; the leaves are deep 
green on the upper surface and silvery below ; the stem, which 
is extremely short, is partly buried in the ground. -S. Black- 
biirniana is another valuable species for sub-tropical gardening, 
and when young forms a useful plant for indoor decoration. The 
leaves attain large dimensions ; they are somewhat flabellate, and 
divided into narrow pendent segments of a light green ; the 
petioles are sheathing and smooth, and partly covered at 
their base by rough fibrous matter. S. mauriticeforme {Trithriiiax 
mauriticEforine) is a very large-leaved stove Palm, reaching 20ft. 
in diameter ; the leaves are glaucous below, and are borne on 
petioles varying from 7ft. to 8ft. long ; the trunk often becomes 
I ft. in thickness and 60ft. to Soft. high. S. Pahiietto i^Chamcerops 
Palmetto) is a useful greenhouse Palm, producing an erect stem 
20ft. to 40ft. in height, with smooth and concave petioles 
supporting leaves 5ft. to 8ft. long; it can be employed with 
great success for various decorative purposes. S. iLinbraculifera 
bears a great similarity to S. Blackburniana^ and is a very robust 
greenhouse species ; the stem, or trunk, often reaches from 60ft. 
to Soft, in height, and the petioles support some very dark 
green leaves. 

ScHEELEA. — A genus composed of unarmed stove plants, very 
similar to Attalea. They may be utilised with success for decora- 
tion in their young state. The leaves are terminal and pinnatisect, 
and the segments are disposed in series or aggregate. The plants 
require a compost of peat and loam in equal parts, and are easily 
propagated by seeds. S. excelsa is a species reaching from 40ft. 
to 50ft. in height, with channelled petioles and enormous elliptic 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



849 



pinnatifid leaves 15ft. to 24ft. long; the numerous leaflets are 
linear and glaucous below. S. 2inguis^ the most beautiful plant 
of the whole genus, appears in its early age to be without stem ; 
its erect leaves are 2ft. to 6ft. long, and the broad pinnae often 
reach the base of the petiole, which, is sheathing and partly 
covered along the edges with brown fibres ; the leaves and 
petioles are of a splendid deep green. A useful species for 
various decorative purposes. 

Thrinax. — Another genus composed of stove plants, some of 
which may be employed for greenhouse decoration during the 
summer months. Thrinax arfe of dwarf habit and unarmed, and 
have fan-shaped leaves with induplicate and bifid segments ; the 
petioles are slender and biconvex. Many of the species are 
extremely ornamental, and are worthy of wider cultivation. In 
their young state they require a light compost of equal parts 
peat, loam, and sand ; but for strong, established specimens 
sandy loam is preferable. Propagation by fresh imported seeds. 
T. argentea is a distinct species, producing a stem 12ft. to 15ft. 
high ; the leaves, which are shorter than the petioles, are of a 
silvery silky colour below : 'the divisions are combined at . the 
base. T. barbadensis is a very decorative species, producing 
some enormous glabrous leaves, with lanceolate, acuminate 
segments ; the petioles are clothed with white scales like felt, 
and all along the edges with black, hooked spines : it often 
reaches 20ft. in height. T. excelsa is a rather tall-growing 
species, producing leaves 4ft. to 5ft. long, pale green on the upper 
surface and glaucous below ; the divisions are about 2ft. in 
length, and partly united ; the stem is often from 7ft. to loft. 
in height. T. imiltifloi:a {!.' graminifolid) deserves to be grown 
in every collection : it attains' a good size with age. The stem 
is slender, and, as well as the petioles (which are 4ft. to 6ft. 
long), is partly covered at the base with a woody, fibrous matter ; 
the leaves are somewhat flabellate, with united segments. 
Extremely decorative in its young state as well as when full 
grown. T. parviflora is the most attractive amongst the dwarf 
species, producing sometimes with age a stem varying from 8ft. 
to loft. high; the slender petioles vary from i8in. to 24in. in 
length, and are thinly covered at the base with a kind of 
fibre ; the leaves are palmate and glabrate, green below. 
T. pumilio is another species of rather dwarf habit, producing a 
very short stem, with erect and slender petioles supporting some 
large palmate leaves, bright green on both sides, and divided for 
about half their length into very narrow segments. T. 7'adiata 
{T. elegans ; T. gracilis) is a slender species, quite distinct in 
appearance, producing a stem somewhat swollen at the base, with 
quite smooth petioles, which are partly covered at the base with a 
kind of fibrous matter ; the leaves are palmate, green, and glabrous 
below, and partly divided into graceful pendent segments ; this 

3 I 



850 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



plant may be employed with great success for table decoration, 
&c. (Fig. 568). 




Fig. 568. — Thrinax radiata. 



Trachycarpus. — A genus composed of only two or three 
greenhouse or half-hardy plants which were previously classified 
under ChamcBrops. They are very much used in sub-tropical 
gardening on account of their robust constitution. The leaves 
are terminal, deeply divided into narrow segments, and have 
biconvex petioles. Trachycarpus do not present any cultural 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



difficulties. They only require a strong compost of two parts 
strong loam and one part leaf-mould and sand; water must be 
applied generously during the growing period. They are some- 
times increased by means of division of suckers, or by seeds. 
T. excelsus {T. Fortunei and ChamcErops excelsa) is a handsome 
Palm for sub-tropical gardening, and may be utilised for various 
decorative purposes, such as halls or window^s during the winter, 
where no other Palms could exist. The stem often reaches 
2oft. in height, and is somew^hat 
stout at the base; the petioles are 
partly enclosed at their base in a 
fibrous matter, and support fan- 
shaped leaves, deeply divided into 
deep green segments (Fig. 569). 
T. Martiana (Z! khasyanus and 
Chamcerops Martianus) is another 
valuable greenhouse species, also 
useful in sub-tropical gardening ; 
it has a slender stem, and petioles 
2oin. to 3oin. long, provided with 
small spines, and covered with a 
kind of fugacious tomentum ; the 
leaves are palmate, with bifid 
■segments. This variety often 
reaches 24rt. to 26ft. high. 

Trithrinax. — This genus is also only represented by two or 
three stove species, producing fan-like leaves deeply divided into 
long segments, and petioles very well armed with spines, and 
partly enclosed in rough fibres. Trithrinax are rather low-growing 
Palms, and are very valuable amongst ornamental-leaved plants. 
They require about the same treatment as Thrinax, and are 
propagated by seeds. T. acanthocoma is a very prickly species, 
producing a rather small stem covered with a persistent netted 
sheath, and protected by numerous stout and reflexed spines ; 
the leaves are large and flabelliform, being deeply divided into 
numerous linear and bifid segments. T. brasiliensis is an 
elegant dwarf-growing Palm, with a slender stem 6ft. to loft. 
hiigh ; the petioles, 2ft. to 5ft. long, are quite smooth, terminated 
-by a circle of short spines, and support some large flabelli- 
form leaves, which are divided into narrow segments of a 
shiny green, and glaucous when young. 

Veitchia. — A genus represented in cultivation by two or 
three species which w^ere previously classified under Kentia. They 
are rather rare, and seem to be better adapted for collections 
than for ornamental purposes. Veitchias produce terminal and 
equally pinnatisect leaves, with linear and acuminate pinnae, and 
require exactly the same treatment as Kentias. V. Johannis 

3 I 2 




Fig. 569. — Trachycarpus 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



{^Kentia Johannis) is a handsome species (Fig. 570), having 
terminal leaves, with minutely- toothed pinnse ; the midrib 
finishes in a small curve with an oblique and truncate apex ; in 
its young state the petiole or rachis is of a deep blood colour, 
and is sometimes clothed with grey, V. Storckii {^Keiitia 
Storckii and K. elegans) attains in its native country 40ft, in 




Ftg, 570. — Veitchia Johannis. 



height ; it produces a hard and smooth stem, dark brown below 
and a lighter shade above ; the leaves have coriaceous pinnse, 
glabrous on both sides. 

Verschaffeltia. — This genus of Palms is represented by 
an elegant stove plant resembling in its early state a FJuviii- 
cophoru7Ji, and thrives very well in a compost of two parts peat 
and one part loam and sand. It also requires a high temperature 
and a constantly-saturated atmosphere, and is propagated by seeds. 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AXD BA:MB00S. 



V. splendida {Regelia magnifica, R. majestica^ and R. priftceps) 
deserves to be more largely grown on account of its decorative 
properties (Fig. 571). It possesses a slender stem, supported on 
an inverted cone of roots. The petioles, which are sheathing, 
are, like the stem, clothed with sharp black spines. The leaves, 
which vary from 
4ft. to 7 ft. long, 
are cuneate - ob- 
ovate, and of a 
bright green. 
This plant often 
attains in its 
native country a 
height of Soft. 

Wallichia.^ — A 
genus represented 
in cultivation by 
only three typical 
species, which are 
all stove plants 
possessing a cer- 
tain amount of 
similarity to 
Caryota, but they 
do not reach such 
enormous heights. 
All are extremely 
decorative and 
very easily grown. 
Wallichias require 
a strong soil, as 
well as an abun- 
dant supply of 
water through the 
growing period. 

They may be utilised for greenhouse decoration 
the summer months. Propagated by suckers provided 
roots, or by seeds. IV. caryotoides (Fig. 572) is a very 
ornamental species, flowering pretty freely, and producing a few 
alternate and petiolate leaves 3ft. to 8ft. long, with sessile 
leaflets often i8in. long, the lower ones mostly opposite, 
and the upper ones alternate ; all are more or less wedge- 
shaped, green on the upper surface and whitish beneath. 
W. densiflora is another decorative, stemless species, rarely 
exceeding 12ft. in height; its pinnate leaves have numerous 
pinnae, the lower one being binately fascicled and whitish 
beneath, the rest solitary or toothed ; it is a very attractive 
plant. 




Fig. 571. — Verschaffeltia splendida. 



during 
with 



854 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Welfia. — A genus embracing only two stove unarmed 
Palms, producing terminal and pinnatisect leaves, on flat and 

short petioles. 
The segments 
are extremely 
narrow at the 
base. Only one 
species is in 
cultiva t i o n. 
W. recria is a 

o 

most beautiful 
species, reach- 
mg in its native 
country 6oft. in 
height ; it is of 
rather slender 
habit, and may 
be employed 
for table de- 
coration when 
young, the 
leaves being 
then gaily 
coloured with 
a bronzy tint ; 
when fully 
developed they 
change to a 
bright green, 
and are divided 
into numerous 
pinnae. This 
plant requires 
a substantial 
soil composed 
of rich loam, 
vegetable 
very easily by seeds. 




Fig. 5; 



-Wallichta caryotoiues 



mould, and sand, and is increased 



Cycads. 

The majority of the species of the order Cycadacce are extremely 
curious on account of their vegetation, and are decidedly orna- 
mental plants for both stove and dwelling-house decoration; they 
may also be employed for sub-tropical gardening, as is the case 
with the graceful Cvcas revoluta^ which will remain throughout 
the summer in a protected situation. CycadaccE form a small 
section of Palm-like plants which are supposed to be closely 
allied to the ConifercE. Their stems are mostly erect or 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



unbranched, always marked with leaf- scars, and support a 
splendid crown of pinnate leaves. xA.mongst the most striking and 
valuable genera of this order are Ce7'atoza??iia, Cjras, Di'oon, 
Encephalartos, Macrozamia^ Stajigeria, and Zamia. 

Importation. — Cycads taken in a general way are oftener 
imported than raised. With "collected" stems care must be 
taken that the plants are in a perfect state of rest, and that they 
have not suffered during the journey. On their arrival the trunks 
or stems must be potted up in as small pots as possible, using a 
rather light soil compared with that which the plants require when 
estabhshed. The pots should then be partly plunged in a bed 
of cocoanut fibre or tan, with a very strong bottom-heat. Water 
must be applied to the roots with great care, but copious 
syringings may be given. When the plants begin to grow, suffi- 
cient room must be given to each to enable it to develop its 
graceful crown. 

Propagation and Culture. — These plants may be propagated 
by various means. Seeds are the best method, but they may also 
be successfully increased by suckers, which are sometimes thrown 
up freely. The suckers, however, have to be treated with the 
same amount of care regarding compost, drainage, water, &c., 
as imported pieces. It is advisable to separate suckers during 
the resting period, as then they will not be affected by the 
operation. Old stems, cut into pieces and placed on a strong 
bottom - heat, will often give rise to "eyes," which, when well 
treated, will in time form other plants. The seeds are fairly 
hard, and should be sown in well-drained pans, with a very light 
compost, and placed in powerful bottom - heat, with any 
amount of saturation until germinated, and then all the healthy 
growing seedlings should be potted up singly. In the case of 
newly-imported stems, which just begin to send forth their new 
crowns, or suckers, and newly potted-up seedlings, shading must be 
observed ; but when the plants are perfectly established they 
dehght in an almost direct light. 

Ceratozamia. — This genus is represented in cultivation by 
three or four species closely allied to Zamia. The only recorded 
distinction is the thickened apices of the scales of the male and 
female cones being bicornute instead of hornless. The stems, or 
trunks, are rather short, with pinnate leaves and articulated 
leaflets. Ceratozamias require stove treatment, a rich soil composed 
of good loam and leaf-mould, and a constant saturated atmosphere 
chiefly throughout the growing period. During their resting time 
water must be applied with great care. C. fusco-viridis is a very 
handsome plant, having a trunk provided with broadish scales 
and beautiful broadly pinnate leaves, 3ft. to 4ft. long, and arching. 
The pinnae are 6in. to yin. long, and of a deep green ; when 
young the leaves are of a bronze colour, but change to a 



856 THE BOOK OF GARDEXIXG. 

beautiful olive-green. C. Kicsteriana, a dwarf species, produces a 
considerable amount of suckers, which may be utilised for propa- 
gation ; its pinnate and spreading leaves are 2ft. to 4ft. long, 
and have semi-lunate pinnae. C. mexicana is a decorative species, 
having a stout stem with armed petioles, bearing some beautiful 
leaves 4ft. in length, with dark green pinnae. C. Miqueliana is 
another decorative species, with a slender stem and elegant 
pinnate, spreading leaves ; the pinnae are of coriaceous habit, 6in. 
to i2in. in length, and dark green. 

CvcAS. — A well-known genus, comprising stove and green- 
house plants, some of which may be used with success in sub- 
tropical gardening. Cycas have cylindrical stems, mostly 
unbranched, and terminated by a beautiful crown of pinnate 
leaves. For culture and propagation see under " Ceratozamia." 
C. ch'cinalis, one of the prettiest species of the genus, produces 
a stout and cylindrical stem, rather slender in the case of 
male specimens : the leaves are 6ft. to 12ft. long, and have 
shiny green pinnae, often reaching i2in. C. media is rather 
tall, with a stout, tall, cylindrical stem bearing elliptic-lanceolate 
leaves, with a considerable number of pinnae, which are transformed 
into spines at the base of the leaves ; it deserves general 
cultiwition. C. N'oi-manbyana somewhat resembles C. circinalis ; 
its oblong-ovate leaves have a quantity of pinnje, and the 
compressed petioles are covered at their base witth furfuraceous 
down. C. revoliita is one of the most robust and oldest 
species in cultivation, and is useful for sub-tropical gardening ; 
in its young state the stem is simple, but with age it becomes 
branched, and is terminated by a graceful crown of leaves. 
C. Riu?]iiniana is ^"ery well known, and is of beautiful habit ; 
its moderately stout stem bears erect spreading leaves, with 
rich shiny green pinnae. C. Rumphii is another handsome 
slender species, with petioles protected by two rows of small 
spines ; the leaves are 4ft. to 6ft. long, and have linear- 
lanceolate pale green pinnae. 

DiooN. — A very small genus, only one species {D. edule) being 
known in cultivation. It is valuable for the economical 
properties of its large fruits. The stem is of moderate size, and 
supports a fine crown of glaucous green pinnate leaves, 3ft. 
to 6ft. long, and having their base covered with hairy matter. 
This species is an extremely ornamental plant, which requires a 
good sandy loam. During the summer it may be removed into 
a greenhouse, but requires stove treatment throughout the winter. 
Increased by seeds only. 

ExcEPHALARTOS. — One of the lars^est ^enera of the order, and 
belonging to the South African flora. It is composed of beautiful 
plants for conservatories or greenhouses, and some of the species 
may be used for sub-tropical gardening during the summer months. 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



They have tall, cylindrical stems, and pinnate, terminal, armed 
leaves. A similar compost to that used for Dioon suits the 
Encephalartos. When in active growth they require an abundant 
supply of water overhead as well as at the roots, but when at 
rest it must be applied with the greatest care. Propagated by 
seeds. E. Altensteinii is a very useful species, with a stout stem 
and petioles swollen at the base ; the leaves often reach 6ft. long, 
and have oblong acuminate pinnae armed with long sharp spines 
(Fig. 573). E. bracJiyphyllus is distinct on account of its short 




Fig. 573. — Encephalartos Alte?^steinji. 



leaves, which are spreading, with erect pinnse, rather wnde and 
rigid, light green above and paler below \ the petioles are 
mostly tomentose. E. caffra produces a stem often reaching 
20ft. high, with elegant spreading recurved leaves of very stiff 
habit ; the pinnae are linear-lanceolate, 4in. to 6in. long. E. ho?'- 
ridtis is a striking species ; the rather stout trunk bears 
remarkable bluish-green leaves, varying from 4ft. to 6ft. long, 
erect, and twisted back sharply at the extremity ; the pinnae are 
armed with sharp spines. E. laniiginosiis is a beautiful spineless 
variety, of a splendid deep green ; its trunk is 6ft. to Sft. high, and 



858 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



is surmounted by a noble crown of erect leaves with lanceo- 
late pinnae often 6in. long. E. villosus is an ornamental plant, 
having a rather stout stem clothed with woolly scales, and 
densely tomentose petioles ; the leaves are 2ft. to 4ft. long, and 
have a quantity of spiny, toothed pinnse. Amongst other cultivated 
species may be mentioned E. Sedmanni^ E. M''Kenii^ E. plumosus^ 
and E. Verschaffelti. 

Macrozamia. — This genus is restricted to temperate and 
tropical Australia. The following cultivated species thrive 
successfully in a greenhouse during the summer, but require 
stove treatment during the winter. Macrozamias are very similar 
to Cycas, with the exception of the pinnae, which are destitute of 
midrib, and are marked with parallel veins. A compost of two 
parts sandy loam and one part peat answers very well. Propa- 
gated by seeds only. M, Eraseri, one of the most distinct species 
of the genus, is highly decorative, producing a very stout trunk, 
w^ith pendulous and pinnate leaves often reaching 8ft. in length ; 
the pinnae are linear, somewhat swoollen at the base, very deep 
green on the upper surface, and of a lighter shade beneath. 
M. Mackenzii is another handsome plant, with leaves ovate in out- 
line, producing a quantity of pairs of narrow deep green segments. 
The petioles are partly covered at their base with loose floccose 
wool. M. Perowskiana {Af. Denisonii and M. Macleayi) gives 
promise of being a tall kind, but is extremely slow in growth ; in 
strong specimens the trunk is slender, but in young plants it is 
rather stout and short, and the dark green leaves form a most 
charming crown. M. plumosa is a very distinct and elegant 
plant, which ought to be more largely grown. The small ovate 
stem is covered with woolly scales ; the petioles are flattened, 
and the twisted leaves are clothed with numerous narrow leaflets. 
M. spiralis^ a beautiful and decorative variety, chiefly in its young 
state, produces pinnate leaves, ift. to 3ft. long, with linear pinnae 
of a bright shiny green, but whitish at base. The forms 
M. corallipes and M. cylindracea do not seem to be distinct 
from this. Amongst other cultivated species, M. Miquelli and 
M. Hopei may be mentioned. 

Stangeria. — A monotypic African genus, represented by a 
most beautiful stove-plant, bearing a great resemblance to some 
Ferns. It requires a compost of equal parts peat and loam 
with a small addition of sand, as well as good drainage. 
Water must be applied abundantly during the growing period. 
S. paradoxa possesses a subterraneous cylindrical stem, which very 
seldom exceeds ift. long. The petioles are covered at their base 
by a woolly matter, and support some splendid pinnate leaves, 
with oblong, lanceolate pinnae. Two sub-varieties are also found 
in cultivation under the names of Kaizeri and schizodon, but 
they differ very slightly from the type. 



ON PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAxMBOOS. 



Zamia. — This is really the largest and the richest genus of the 
whole order, some twenty or thirty species being in cultivation ; 
all are extremely decorative, and require stove or greenhouse 
treatment. They are somewhat closely allied to Encephalartos ; 
however, they form a well-marked genus. Zamias require a 
compost of equal parts loam and sandy peat, and are shade- 
loving , plants. A copious supply of water is needed throughout 
the growing period ; but when the plants are at rest they do not 
require much. They may easily be increased by suckers or by 
offsets, which are sent up pretty freely. Z. furfiwacea is a 
handsome species, with a cylindrical trunk and prickly petioles ; 
the leaves are divided into leaflets, which are opposite or 
alternate, and vary in number from fifteen to thirty on each 
side. Z. integrifolia is a very distinct species, which ought to be 
largely grown, as it is the most robust species of the genus, 
thriving fairly well in a greenhouse ; it produces a slender stem 
with pinnate leaves and oblong pinnae. Z. pida is another 
distinct species deserving to be more extensively grown ; it has 
been classed as a variety of Z. muricaia, to which it is far 
superior. The trunk is of a glabrous colour, with stout and 
pubescent petioles, and the leaflets are splendidly spotted with 
white. Z. Skinnei-i has a stem varying from ift. to 3ft. in 
height, with black and prickly petioles ; the leaves, which often 
reach 3ft., are pinnate and spreading, and the bright green 
pinnse are somewhat armed towards their apex. Many other 
varieties are in cultivation, but the above list includes the best. 

Bamboos and their Allies. 

Amongst the numerous genera of this distinct and characteristic 
order Grami?iecE, Bamboos and their allies form the best tropical 
representatives. Some of them are eminently ornamental, varying 
in size from the noble and majestic Dendrocabamus, which in 
the Tropics form impenetrable forests, to some of the dwarf 
Arundinarias and Bamboos, and all are worthy of a place in 
every well-regulated conservatory or greenhouse. 

Unfortunately Bamboos are not generally known by horti- 
culturists. They are, however, most decidedly plants of the future, 
and, taken in a general way, are highly decorative, fairly free- 
growers, and able to stand an amount of rough treatment that 
would mean death to tenderer plants. Furthermore, they can 
adapt themselves to all manner of situations. Many have proved 
quite hardy in favourable localities, and thus can be employed 
in landscape work ; but it is our present purpose to treat of 
those that are most suitable for indoor cultivation. 

Culture. ■ — Bamboos, &c., like all other plants, give the 
greatest satisfaction when they receive the best possible treatment. 
In the present case we will divide them into two groups, 



86o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



comprising (i) the tall and (2) the dwarf species. The former 
do best when planted out in beds of rich turfy loam, with good 
drainage, and succeed very well if partially shaded by other 
large plants. The dwarf group may be successfully grown in 
pots, and ought to be more largely cultivated for the trade. 
During their growing period they require moisture in abundance, 
and in the spring a repotting or top-dressing of fresh soil is 
advisable. In the case of well-established plants the soil could 
be mixed with well rotted cow-manure, which is very beneficial 
to them. When growth is first noticeable among established 
plants in the early spring they will have to undergo a thinning 
process, removing the oldest growths, and thus making room for 
the new ones, which always push up at such a time. Water must 
also be applied with care during the winter months — just enough 
should be given to prevent the soil from becoming dry. 

Propagation is readily effected by division of the roots, in 
the early part of the spring just when the plants are com- 
mencing to grow. The divisions should be inserted in small 
pots in a light sandy soil and kept in a warm pit until 
growth is noticeable. Potting must be repeated until the plants 
are large enough for sale as dwarf species or to plant out 
for large sized ones. 

In addition to our well known Bamboos, there are several 
other closely allied genera possessing the same properties, viz., 

Ariindiiiaria^ Ariuido, Dendro- 
cala??ius, and Phyllostachys. 

Arundinaria. — This genus, 
which was formerly classified 
under Bamhisa^ is represented 
in cultivation by about ten 
distinct species which are nearly 
hardy, and several of them are 
Himalayan. Tliey are very valuable 
for sub-tropical gardening, and when 
isolated they form some splendid 
tufts. They may be grown rapidly 
under greenhouse treatment, and 
must be kept rather on the dry 
side throughout the winter. A. 
falcata {Bambusa gracilis) is a very 
Fig. 574.— Arundinaria decorative plant (Fig. 574) and use- 

ful for the conservatory ; it produces 
a very slender and branching stem 
with very light green leaves ; it varies in height from 3ft. 
to 6ft., and requires a rich soil as well as an abundance of 
moisture. A. Fortiinei {Bambusa Fortunei) and its varieties, 
variegata and argeiitea vittata^ are pretty plants, about 2ft. in 




ox PALMS, CYCADS, AND BAMBOOS. 



86l 



height, and are suitable for pot cultivation in the conservatory or 
greenhouse, growing in tufts, and having variegated leaves. 
. A. Metake (yBambiisa japonica) is of rather dwarf and branched 
habit, forming a handsome specimen, 4ft. to 6ft. in height, 
extremely free flowering, and produces persistent lanceolate 
deep green leaves ; it is very useful for sub-tropical gardening. 
A. Simonii {Bambusa Simonii)^ a very rapid growing conservatory 
plant, attains a height of about loft., and produces long narrow 
leaflets, some of which are green and others often white. 

Arundo. — Another very ornamental group, very closely allied 
to Bambusa, and composed of half-hardy plants, which become 
quite hardy in the southern counties or in close proximity to 
the sea. Arundos are excellent for sub-tropical gardening, and 
may be employed with great success in landscape \vork. They 
do not present any cultural difficulties, only seeming to prefer a 
rather moist soil. Propagation is effected by seeds or by divisions 
of the crown. A. conspiaia is a valuable species, being nearly 
hardy; still, it is best grown in the conservatory. It produces 
long curving green leaves, and bears large ornamental panicles of 
flowers; its height varies from 3ft. to loft., and it forms an 
excellent plant for su])-tropical gardening. A. Donax is another 
handsome plant, producing large glaucous leaves, which are 
very ornamental, and bearing numerous spikelets of flowers : 
it varies in height from 8ft. to loft., and may successfully be 
employed for various landscape works, being extremely robust 
and a free grower. A. D. variegata is very largely grown on 
account of its decorative properties ; it produces long leaves, striped 
with green and white. Unfortunately it is rather difficult to 
propagate. The best plan is to cut off the stems and place 
them in water in a warm pit, when they will break at the joints, 
and form small plants, which can be removed and potted. This 
variety seldom exceed 3ft. in height. A. mauritaiiica is closely 
allied to A. Do?tax, reaching sometimes a height of i8ft. ; 
unhappily, this species is little known, and seems as if it will 
remain so for a long period ; it forms a handsome plant for the 
greenhouse. 

Bambusa. — Under this very familiar genus many others have 
been several times classed, and it is in most cases extremely 
difficult to recognise any of theii' representatives. But the true 
Bambusa form some valuable decorative plants for greenhouse 
ornamentation or for sub-tropical gardening. They are partly 
half hardy, requiring a position more or less protected from 
sharp, cold winds, &c., but are quite hardy in the South. 
Bambusas, like their relatives, are very easily cultivated ; they 
delight in a fresh moist soil during the growing period, and 
in w^inter water must be given with care. Propagation is 
eff'ected by divisions when the plant has just started growth. 



862 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



JB. ariindifiacea is the well-known old Bamboo of India, one 
of the earliest species introduced. It has a stout stem, 50ft. 
to 60ft. high, bearing large bright green leaves. The whole 
plant presents a very graceful and feathery appearance. In 
Southern latitudes it can be utilised for sub-tropical 
gardening, but under our climate it is preferable to give it 
stove treatment. B. nana {B. glauca^ B. viridis-glaucescens, and 




Fig. 575. — Bambusa nana. 



B. epacrifolia) is a fine, strong-growing plant (Fig. 575), 6ft. to 8ft. 
high, with beautiful glaucous-green leaves ; it succeeds very well 
under stove treatment, but will also do very well in the con- 
servatory. B. vulgaris {B. striata) is another beautiful species of 



ON PALMS, 



CYC ADS, 



AND BAMBOOS. 



863 



graceful habit and with slender stems, usually 6ft. to 12ft. high, 
but sometimes under favourable conditions reaching 20ft. ; it has 
a purple stem striped with yellow, and will do well in pots in the 
greenhouse. 

Dendrocalamus. — Another genus comprising several tropical 
species of very noble habit. Some of them attain enormous 

D. gigaiiteus 



sizes, and can only be grown in very large houses. 



forms forests in India and Malava. 




Fig. 576. — Phyllostachys aurea. 



Dendrocalamus require 
a good soil, stove 
treatment, and an 
abundant supply 
of water during 
their growing 
period. Amongst 
other species 
which are some- 
times seen in culti- 
vation may be 
mentioned : D. 
iiiembranaceus, D. 
sikkimeiisis^ and 
D. str ictus. 

Phyllostachys. 
— This s mall 
genus is only re- 
presented in culti- 
vation by a few 
ornamental 
Bamboo like 
plants, with a 
fairly robust con- 
stitution. Their 
culture and pro- 
pagation is exactly 
the same as for 
Bamboos. P. 
aurea iyBamhusa 
aurea)., the Golden 
Bamboo, is a very 
beautiful little 
stove plant (Fig. 
576), with rather 
high ; the leaves 
a solden colour 



thin stems, growing in tufts, of 6ft. to 8ft. 
are light green when young, but change to 
later. P. bambusoides bears a great similarity to the Bamboos ; 
its unarmed, quite smooth, reed-like culms are 8ft. to 12ft. 
long ; it is highly decorative. P. nigra [Panibusa fiigra) is an 



864 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



interesting and valuable plant, also closely allied to the Bamboos ; 
it usually varies in height from 4rt. to 5ft., but will sometimes 
reach 20ft. or more under cultivation. jP. vio/ascens {Bambusa 
violaced) is a pretty and remarkable plant, having leaves green 
above and bluish underneath ; the stems also, which are much 
branched, a-re a deep violet, or sometimes almost black ; it does 
well in the conservatory. 

The species and varieties which have been found to "succeed 
outside in this country are fully dealt with in the Chapter " On 
Trees and Shrubs." 




HowEA Belmoreana. 




Judging from the increased interest taken during recent years 
in the cultivation of Aquatic Plants, and the paucity of 
reliable information respecting them that is readily available to 
the majority of horticultural readers, it is hoped that the 
particulars referring to them in the following pages will in some 
degree serve the purpose that has occasioned their appearance. 
Every contribution that has for its object the desire to familiarise 
the many interesting and picturesque plants which are included 
in this chapter cannot but serve a useful purpose, for it is 
certain that the more a general knowledge of them increases, the 
more popular will they become, and the greater will be the 
encouragement for expert growers of them to secure and 
distribute new and improved forms of some of the genera. Just 
in proportion to the care that is bestowed on the various 
requirements of the plants, and the careful consideration given to 
the disposition of a desirable selection of them, will be the 
measure of success that may be fairly anticipated. 



866 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



The subject with which we are deahng, so far as space will 
permit, will embrace observations on the treatment of outdoor 
ponds and tanks, as well as those of the latter constructed under 
glass for the cultivation of tropical Aquatic Plants, and the 
most desirable kinds that may be advantageously associated 
with them will be mentioned. In both cases there will be 
considerations as to the space and means available for their 
cultivation ; and it may be stated that considerable gratification 
may be obtained from very simple and restricted contrivances 
that may be quite sufficient for the requirements of a 
limited number of them. As an example, barrels cut in 
halves may be employed in which to grow many Aquatic 
Plants. These may be sunk in the ground to within a few 
inches of their tops, or so grouped as to be faced with 
rustic work, which would also act as a shield to their exteriors 
from the rays of the sun. Large earthenware pans may also 
be used ; but it must be borne in mind that whenever such 
vessels are used, precautions must be taken to protect them from 
exposure to severe frost that would cause them to burst. Not- 
withstanding this drawback to their use, in many instances they 
would serve the purpose of at least helping the amateur to 

acquire a more intimate knowledge of the 
particular kinds chosen for what may be only 
regarded as an interesting experiment in their 
cultivation. As an example, it will suffice to 
mention that of a plant remarkable for its 
uncommon prettiness, and yet one that is 
seldom met with in similar surroundings. 
We refer to the wild Flowering Rush Buto77ius 
U7nhellatus (Fig. 577), which we once saw 
flourishing in a delightful fashion in an upright, 
glazed earthenware vessel at the foot of a fern 
rockery in a confined town garden. This plant, 
Gerarde wrote, "is, of all others, the fairest 

Fig, 577. BuTOMus ^ii^d most pleasant to behold, and serveth 

uMBELLATus. ycry wcll for the decking and trimming up 

of houses, because of the beautie and braverie 
thereof"; and it cannot be denied that the Butomus is amongst 
the most elegant of our hardy Aquatics. This instance is 
mentioned for the purpose of showing what may be accomplished 
with very limited resources in respect of the cultivation of other 
representatives of this interesting class of plants. The simplicity 




ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



867 



of a contrivance that is satisfactory in its employment is often 
its chief recommendation, more especially when it admits of 
extended application. 

From a successful employment of simple contrivances encourage- 
ment may be derived for engaging in more enterprising efforts 
with respect to growing some of the choicer or rarer kinds that 
need but a limited space in which to develop their full beauty. 
This plan would likewise be of occasional service for the accom- 
modation of reserves or duplicates, or for any of the smaller 
plants that may be required to be kept under close observation. 
Enough has been said to show that at least something may be 
done in the way of successfully growing a few of these plants 
without the aid of any very elaborate appliances. 

In numerous instances there may be already means at hand, in 
the form of tanks which have been constructed for the storage 
of water, that could be at once utilised for the reception of some 
of the many beautiful hardy Nymphseas now so readily obtainable ; 
but it should be remembered that, excepting when the tank is of 
large dimensions, those of a neat habit will be preferable for this 
purpose to vigorous-growing kinds. The planting and arranging 
of them are largely discretionary, the use of tubs or boxes for the 
former being a matter of convenience ; but in their arrangement, 
as far as practicable the alternating of dark and light shades of 
colour may be generally depended on to produce a pleasing 
effect during their season of flowering. These observations are 
intended to apply to tanks that are already in existence : the con- 
struction of new ones will be dealt with further on in this chapter. 

Hardy Plants. 

The possession of ponds or lakes is the great desideratum for 
exemplifying the admirable effects that can be produced by these 
plants when their cultivation is as skilfully undertaken as is the 
case with many other things. It is to the initial step that may 
be attributed the measure of success that often rewards the efforts 
made in attaining its accomplishment ; so is it in respect to 
what could aptly be termed an ideal water-garden. A natural 
taste combined with a practical knowledge is essential in carrying 
out the details of this kind of work, which should be done in 
accordance with a carefully-designed plan. It is here that the 
advantage of consulting an expert in this department of horti- 
culture is of primary importance, and it is indeed within his 
province to direct the scheme throughout to a successful issue. 
Even when everything has been carefully done that seems to be 
necessary to ensure establishing Nymphceas in large ponds or 

3^2 



868 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



lakes, they are not then entirely free from casual mishaps. For 
instance, in a season of long-continued drought the water may 
sink to an abnormally low depth, and in receding from the plants 
leave their crowns exposed above its surface to endure an un- 
congenial element and its consequences. We recall one case 
where, after several of the choicer kinds had become fairly 
established, they were discovered unexpectedly removed from their 
allotted stations and floating promiscuously in the lake, which 
depredation had been the work of some mischievous swans. 

Interest is now evidently being more generally taken in 
acquiring some of the rarer kinds of Nymphaeas in places 
having facilities for growing them, and where the commonly- 




FiG. 578. — Xymph^a alba. 



known white -A\ alba (Fig. 578) has hitherto been perhaps the 
sole representative of the genus. It must not be imagined, 
however, that the new introductions, notwithstanding their varied 
charms, will ever be likely to entirely usurp the places of this 
old native favourite. Where the familiar white Water Lilies 
abound they present, during their season of flowering, as 
delightful a spectacle as it is possible to imagine in connection 
with rural scenery, more particularly in sheltered places. Beyond 
where steamboats churn the river stream, these are to be 
found helping materially to impart to their surroundings the 
appearance of reposeful seclusion that is so great a charm to 
frequenters of the riverside. There are not a few to whom 
some of these scenes are familiar, and who have felt delight in 
viewing closely the floating flowers expanding their broad and 
spotless petals to the sun. 

To careless minds they seem to roam 

Abroad upon the river ; 
In all their movements chained to home, 

Fast rooted there for ever. 

Such scenes are emphatically worthy of the pains of preserving, 
and in the not very distant future it may be considered 
desirable to undertake the protection of these Aquatic Flowers — 
born of the river and on the river borne. 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



869 



Water, whether in the shape of a lake, pond, river, or stream, 
has ahvays formed an important feature in landscape gardening, 
but up till the past few years the cultivation of hardy Aquatics 
has been a branch of horticulture very much neglected ; in fact, 
there are numerous instances where scarcely any regular attention 
has been bestowed on the embellishment of the surface or sides 
of lakes or ponds, by establishing the choicer kinds of Aquatics 
that are so suitably adapted for this purpose, and which impart 
to them so much additional interest and pleasure. There are, 
however, indications that the merits of water gardening, with 
its charming and beautiful effects, are better appreciated, and in 
many leading establishments the cultivation of Aquatics is being 
deservedly made a special feature. Doubtless, this has to a 
great extent been brought about by the introduction of the many 
beautiful hybrid Water Lilies raised by the skilful operations of 
M. Latour-Marliac, to whose successful labours we are so greatly 
indebted for many exquisitely-coloured novelties. In these lovely 
hybrids we get great variation in size, shape, and colour of the 
flowers, and their loveliness is considerably enhanced by the 
freedom with which they are produced and the delightful fragrance 
of many of them. Some of these hybrids are also as hardy 
and as vigorous in habit as our own well-known common 
Water Lily {Nymphcea alba\ and the conditions under which 
the native plant is found to flourish best are those in which 
these likewise may be expected to succeed equally well. The new 
hybrid Water Lilies raised by M. Marliac have been referred to 
in terms of high appreciation as forming an important and 
welcome addition to collections of Aquatic Plants. They are 
already rather numerous, and will doubtless be supplemented by 
more from the same raiser as well as from others ; and this antici- 
pation gives rise to the opinion that only such new productions 
as are distinct, or superior to those already in cultivation, should 
be selected for distribution, for a multiplicity of varieties possessing 
a too close resemblance to others is to be deprecated. 

In gardens where a natural lake or pond exists, provided it 
has an ample supply of water and an efficient outlet to prevent 
stagnation, a water garden might be formed, which, when 
judiciously planted, would become permanently interesting and 
pretty, and in addition to providing a new feature, would impart 
additional beauty to the surroundings. It is not unusual to see 
a stagnant pond overgrown with rank vegetation that yearly 
adds to the decomposing mass of vegetable matter in its bed, 
and the effluvia arising therefrom cannot be expected to form a 
very pleasing feature in any garden, yet there would probably 
be no great difficulty in converting a pond of this description 
into one of enduring prettiness. 

The margins and banks of streams afford excellent opportunities 
for establishing without much difficulty many plants that, in the 



870 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



course of time, would impart a pleasing effect to what might 
previously have been bare, uninteresting, or otherwise covered 
with indigenous coarse-growing vegetation. 

There is nothing in connection with horticulture that is more 
fascinating, or that presents more beauty, or, on the other hand, 
affords greater pleasure for the amount of care bestowed on it 
than a water garden, no matter of whatever dimensions, when 
natural and tasteful effects are produced in planting it, and the 
conditions are favourable to the requirements of Aquatics and 
the numerous plants which can be suitably associated with 
them. Water Plants are exquisite ; there is so much in their 
surroundings that is absorbing and delightful. They are usually 
of the easiest possible culture, and when once well established, 
will practically take care of themselves, provided a limit be kept 
on the more vigorous - growing sorts to prevent them from over- 
growing those of slenderer and less sturdy growth. A garden 
of this description would be quite as much an acquisition in 
a small establishment as in a large one, although the area to 
be dealt with would only admit of one being planned on a 
much smaller scale for the reception of some of the numerous 
small-growing Aquatics and other plants. 

Weeds, &c. — Weeds will occasionally obtrude themselves, and 
these must be removed as soon as they put in an appearance, 
for if allowed to become established, which they quickly do, 
some difficulty may be eventually experienced in eradicating 
them, and then not before they have either crippled the growth, 
or perhaps entirely destroyed other plants. In tanks, and also in 
ponds where there is but a slight current of water, various forms 
of confervoid algae — green, thread-like vegetation, members of a 
low order of the Vegetable Kingdom — will sometimes make their 
appearance, more especially during warm weather ; these, upon 
rising to the surface of the water, should at once be removed, 
or they will form dense masses, detrimental to the growth of 
other plants. If the Water Lilies are well furnished with foliage 
the algae would be less troublesome to deal with, and the intro- 
duction of a stock of fish would also prove very serviceable in 
keeping the same in check. 

For the removal of dead leaves, weeds, or any accumulation 
of floating refuse, as well as to give the necessary attention to 
any plants requiring it in tanks or small areas of water, a strong, 
light plank or ladder might be used of sufficient length to take 
a secure bearing at the ends ; but in large ponds, where this is 
impracticable, wading-boots have to be resorted to. 

Insect Pests, Rats, &c. — Aquatics, more especially those with 
floating leaves, are generally fairly free from injurious attacks of 
insect pests, although sometimes they become affected with green 
or black Aphis. These can, however, generally be removed with 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



871 



the aid of a syringe or hose-spray ; but the most effectual remedy 
is a natural one — a good heavy shower of rain, which also imparts 
to the plants an additional brightness. In some cases it may be 
desirable to use an insecticide, and should this be resorted to 
a solution of tobacco-juice will be found to answer the purpose 
effectually, without causing the least injury to the plants. Water- 
rats will sometimes become troublesome, if allowed to be un- 
disturbed in their visits, by destroying the buds and flowers of 
Water Lilies, but they may generally be captured by means of 
tempting baits without very much difficulty. Waterfowl might 
play havoc with small plants if unguarded, but, as previously 
mentioned, it is most desirable that these should be grown in 
reserved quarters until sufficiently strong to plant out where they 
are liable to this contingency. 

Making Ponds. — In selecting a site for an artificial piece of 
water it should be borne in mind that water naturally seeks its 
bed in low-lying ground ; therefore, in the construction of a 
pond, it is very important that this particular should be observed 
wherever the conditions are favourable for doing so, or an unreal 
effect will otherwise be produced. The outline should be care- 
fully considered, and formal or unnatural shapes should be 
avoided, as these would, to a cultivated taste, present a too 
artificial appearance. The sides should be represented by 
projections and irregular curves, avoiding the introduction of 
straight lines, which are invariably objectionable, and seldom 
occur in a natural formation. Artificial work as far as possible 
should be carefully concealed below the intended water-level 
line, or provision made for concealing it with vegetation when 
planting operations are in progress. If the soil is of a clayey 
nature and retentive of water where it is designed to form a 
pond, this work will be very much simplified ; but should it be 
of a porous nature, then tempered clay will have to be intro- 
duced and puddling resorted to to prevent waste of water when 
the work is completed. When the soil has been excavated as 
deeply as may be desired — say to a minimum depth of about 
3^ft. in the middle or deepest part, gradually diminishing to 
about i^ft. at the margin, the sides sloping outwardly — the 
surface of the excavation should be made as firm as possible, 
and regularly finished off, ready for the puddling process, To 
effect this, clay should be beaten and worked into a thoroughly 
tenacious nature wherever most convenient to do so, and when 
it is fit for use the bottom and sides of the pond should be 
evenly covered throughout with it to a thickness of gin. to i2in. 
This will require to be well rammed and beaten as the work 
proceeds, so that it may be thoroughly united, and so prevent 
the water from percolating through it. This work should be 
done expeditiously, and as soon as it is completed the water 
should be gradually admitted. Of course, cement concrete 



872 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



might be used for lining the interiors of- small ponds, but in 
the case of larger ones this would be a rather expensive process 
in comparison to puddling with clay. After the puddling 
operation is completed, the deepest part in the pond would be 
from 2^ft. to 3ft., and this would form the most suitable 
position for depositing the necessary mounds of soil for the 
reception of Nuphars and the more vigorous-growing Nymphaeas 
that may be selected, the margin being suited to the require- 
ments of those plants that only require shallow water in which to 
grow. 

Water-Supply. — In supplying an artificial pond with water, it 
is very important that the source from which it is obtained 
should be considered, as Aquatics, and more especially the 
choicer kinds of hardy Nymphseas, do not flourish satisfactorily 
in continually running water of a low temperature, as by a 
continuous current entering the pond, and this observation 
applies particularly to the odorata group. Therefore, for the 
benefit of the plants, every provision possible should be 
made to ensure as high and as constant a temperature as 
possible, more especially during the time that the plants are in 
active growth. A pond situated in a sheltered, sunny position 
provides the best aspect, especially so for those of tender habit, 
and it would conduce to a greater prolongation of their flowering 
period. Where a sufficient, constant, and steady supply can be 
laid on from an extraneous lake, river, or stream, it will be of 
great advantage to do so, this being more beneficial to the 
health of the plants than that supplied direct from a natural 
spring or drawn from a low-level in the earth. The water 
obtained from the last-named sources is of too chilly a nature to 
favour a luxuriant growth, whereas the former would obviously 
best meet the plants' requirements, it being aerated and, 
consequently, of a higher temperature. The inrush of any 
considerable quantity of water should also be avoided, as the 
disturbance caused thereby is calculated to be detrimental to 
their well doing. All that is really required is a sufficient supply 
of water to prevent stagnation, and, when this is well regulated, 
successful culture will be in a great measure assured. Means 
should also be taken to prevent the level of the water from 
fluctuating to any appreciable extent by constructing an outlet 
at the intended water-level line, which will suffice for carrying off" 
a similar quantity of water to that which enters the pond. 

Rockery. — Where an opportunity is afforded of forming a 
small pond in connection with a well-made rockery, provided one 
does not already exist, it will, if properly constructed and judi- 
ciously planted, form an additional charm to that always interesting 
and attractive feature in a garden. In its formation an irregular 
outline should be observed, as this would be conducive to its 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



presenting a natural, and therefore more pleasing, appearance 
when completed. In making the pond the ground should be 
excavated to the depth of about 3ft., afterwards covering the 
interior throughout with a 9in. course of brick, stone, or well- 
made concrete. The surface should be smoothly finished off with 
about an inch in thickness of good cement, so as to ensure 
it being perfectly watertight. This would when finished afford 
a depth of from 2ft. to 2^ft., which would be sufficient for 
the accommodation of Aquatics suitable for introducing into a 
pond of this description. The margin should be constructed 
so as • to appear as a part of the rockery, and by the 
careful concealment of all artificial work its effect would be 
the more satisfactory. Permanent beds formed of brick or stone, 
about 2ft. 6in. square and i2in. deep, might be built in the pond 
at equal distances apart, in which to plant Water Lilies ; and 
around the inside against the wall other beds might be constructed 
for the reception of some of the smaller-growing ornamental 
Aquatics. Water is frequently associated with a rock-garden iri 
some shape or form, and where it is adjacently present would 
form the source from which a supp)ly might be obtained ; but 
providing this is not the case, or the supply be inadequate, it 
will be necessary to introduce it through water-pipes from 
another source, the inlet being masked by rockwork, presenting a 
natural appearance. At the lowest end of the pond the overflow 
might be allowed to escape in such a manner that in its course it 
would permeate the ground, and so afford a favourable situation 
for planting some of the many choice bog-loving plants. * ■• 

Tanks.— In gardens of limited space brick, stone, or concrete 
tanks about 2^ft. in depth might be constructed, and these, if built 
entirely in the ground with the walls gradually sloping outwardly 
at the top, will minimise the risk of their being damaged during 
a long spell of severe frosty weather. The thickness of the walls 
would largely depend on the size of the tank, but for those from 
25ft. to 30ft. in diameter, walls of the same thickness as recom- 
mended for the pond in the rock-garden -would be sufficiently 
strong, and the beds for the reception of the plants might be of 
a corresponding size: to those described in that instance. As 
previously stated, a sunny position should be selected, and the 
site and formation of a tank of this description should be carefully 
considered in connection with the surroundings. In its con- 
struction a natural effect should be aimed at as far as possible, 
so that it will not present a too formal appearance. For example, 
a suitable position in the flower-garden might be available for 
the purpose, and if a border of some ornamental, compact, 
dwarf-growing plants were formed around the outside, or a 
little low rockwork substituted as an edging, upon which plants 
adapted for such a position might be grown, this would greatly 
add to its effect. 



4' 



874 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



A supply of water might be laid on by means of pipes, to 
which a valve should be fitted, so that the volume of water 
entering the tank may be 'regulated. The higher the mean 
temperature at which the water can be maintained in the tank 
the more generally beneficial will it be for the plants. Only 
sufficient fresh water need be allowed to enter to prevent stag- 
nation. An efficient outlet is also a necessity, and this should 
be situated at the intended water-level line to prevent any 
appreciable fluctuation. In favour of tanks it may be urged, 
without in any way depreciating the value of ponds, that they 
afford better facilities for more closely viewing the beauty of the 
Water Lilies than is the case when the plants are situated in 
large pieces of water. 

Ordinary tanks or fountain basins, where they already exist, if 
of sufficient depth and dimensions, as previously stated, would be 
available, although their stiff, artificial appearance makes them 
less- pleasing to the eye in comparison with those which are 
designed on more natural lines. In the case of fountain basins 
choice plants should not be allowed to occupy positions where 
sprays of water would be continually falling upon them when 
the fountain is playing. 

Planting. — Before planting a naturally-formed piece of water 
it will be obvious that precautions should be taken to effectually 
eradicate any coarse-growing vegetation that may have become 
estabhshed therein, and which might prove detrimental to the 
plants, or mar their eff'ect. In water of this description, where 
a deposit of several inches of mud has accumulated, very little 
difficulty will be occasioned in establishing the plants if due care 
be taken to make their roots secure when the planting operation 
is in progress. But should the bottom be of a gravelly nature, 
or otherwise unsuitable to their requirements, then mounds of 
soil, consisting of good, rich, heavy loam of a tenacious nature, 
with about one-third of well-decomposed cow- or stable-manure, 
to which a little leaf-soil might be added, although not absolutely 
necessary, and the whole thoroughly incorporated, should be 
deposited for their reception. This obser%'ation also applies to 
the planting of artificial ponds, unless it be intended to grow 
the plants in submerged tubs or boxes — a plan, however, which, 
in respect to a pond of any large extent, cannot be recommended 
as being more satisfactory than that of planting them out on 
mounds. 

Where it is inconvenient or undesirable to lower the depth of 
the water sufficiently to allow of the planting of Aquatics directly 
into the mud, or mounds of soil, in which they are to grow, a 
good method to adopt is to plant them firmly in similar soil to 
that recommended above, in baskets about 2^ft. in diameter and 
from 6in. to gin. deep — what are known as small nursery rounds 
would answer the purpose. This operation should be performed 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



as expeditiously as possible, afterwards lowering the baskets from 
a punt or raft into the positions the plants are to occupy, 
whether on the bed or on the mounds of soil, as the case may be. 
When the baskets become decayed, or even before, the roots will 
be found to have penetrated through, and have taken possession 
of the mud or soil below, attended with a corresponding vigorous 
growth of the entire plant. In the case of Nymphseas, only 
strong, healthy plants should be submitted to this treatment. 
Small plants should be nursed in shallower water, or where they 
would be under close observation until sufficiently strong to be 
transferred to deeper quarters. In the case of small plants it is 
advisable to remove the flower-buds as they appear, so that their 
vigour may be concentrated in making an unchecked growth. 
The compost recommended to be used for planting in the above 
instance would be that which would also be found to meet the 
requirements of those grown in all circumstances where beds, 
tubs, or boxes are used for their reception, provided a minimum 
depth of 9in. of same be allowed for them to develop as much 
root growth as possible. This compost would also serve for the 
purpose of renovating the surface whenever necessary, and this 
operation is invariably attended with good results if done before 
each season's growth commences. 

In planting a water garden where sufficient space exists for 
the inclusion of a representative collection of the most ornamental 
Aquatics, it may be made all the more attractive by a judicious 
disposition of the plants according to their individual 
characteristics, more particularly with respect to their habit of 
growth. For instance, there are those kinds whose leaves float 
on the surface of the water, amongst which are included the 
beauthul Water Lilies and the sweet-scented Water Hawthorn ; 
whereas other kinds assume a more or less tall and erect habit, 
as, for example, the Flowering Rush and the Bog Bean. "Then 
there are those the foliage of which is entirely submerged, but 
which produce their flower-scapes above the surface of the water, 
such as the pretty Water Violet, the Water Soldier, and the 
interesting Bladderworts, besides numerous other equally desirable 
and pretty subjects that thrive luxuriantly at the water's edge, 
where their roots can revel in an abundance of moisture. 

The most suitable time for planting hardy Aquatics is about 
the beginning of April, or as soon as they commence active 
growth, thus aff'ording a long - growing season in which to get 
established. Of course it may be desirable afterwards to 
introduce a few plants in the shape of new acquisitions, to fill up 
spaces where plants may have failed, or to introduce a few tender 
kinds during the summer months which require the protection 
of a greenhouse during the winter ; but for the general planting, 
the time stated above is invariably the most advantageous. It 
is also very important that due consideration should be given to 



876 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

the arrangement of the plants, for the nearer imitation 
approaches Nature the more does it attract and deHght. Where 
practicable, and circumstances are favourable to planting in 
groups of one sort, this style is the most suitable to adopt, 
as it presents a bolder and a more natural effect than when 
planted singly. In ponds, the groups, more especially those 
with floating leaves, should be separated from each other by 
clear open spaces of water, so that when in full growth their 
beauty will be better displayed, and the surface will not present 
the appearance of being too much covered with foliage, which 
would have a too decidedly monotonous effect. 

Nymphasas. 

The various lovely-coloured flowers of the beautiful new 
hybrid Nymphasas, which only a few years ago were undreamt 
of, now furnish a variety of colours that were previously 
entirely wanting in hardy floating Aquatics. The important part 
that these Water Lilies, now and in the future, are destined to 
take justly entitles them, without exception, to be located in the 
best and most conspicuous positions. In describing the colours 
of the flowers it should be borne in mind that under varying 
climatic conditions and exposures, as well as according to the 
earliness or lateness of their flowering, the colours of some of 
them present much variation. Unlike the Lotus section of 
tropical N3^mphseas. which includes so many handsome kinds, 
the flowers of which expand at night and are closed during the 
day, all the kinds from temperate climates, including Marliac's 
beautiful hybrids, are day-flowering. The duration of the flowers 
in both cases is the same as they appear in varying beauty for 
a period of three successive days or nights, when their flowers, 
whether fertilised or otherwise, sink below the surface of the 
water. 

To admit of a selection of Nymphseas being the more readily 
made, the undermentioned list is presented in two groups, the 
first of which includes kinds possessing the most vigorous con- 
stitutions and that require the greater space and deeper water in 
which to grow. The sorts in the second group are much less 
vigorous in growth, and are better suited for locating in 
shallower water. They are also adapted for planting in tanks 
and fountain basins. A good selection can be made from the 
older sorts enumerated in these two groups, which can be 
procured at a moderate cost ; therefore, if it be desired to plant 
them three or more in a group, so as to produce an immediate 
and more striking effect, it would not incur a very great 
or extravagant outlay. 

General Collection. — Group I. — N. alba, our native 
white Water Lily, is so well known that it would be 
superfluous to give a detailed description of it. Although its 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



freedom of flowering is surpassed by some of the hardy hybrids, 
it still holds its own in public favour. JV. a. candidissima is a 
robust variety with larger blossoms of the purest white. It also 
flowers more freely, and is in every way more effective than the 
type. 

N. Maj'liacea albida (Fig. 579) is undoubtedly one of the very 
finest of all hardy Water Lilies. The flowers are very large, of good 




Fig. 579. — Nymph^a Marltacea albida. 

shape, white, with a slight tinge of pink at the base of the sepals 
and outer petals, slightly scented, and produced with remarkable 
freedom. It is one of the most vigorous growers of any of the 
hardy hybrids. N. M. carnea is another grand hybrid, somewhat 
similar in habit to the preceding, but the white flowers which 
are freely produced are delicately suffused with pale pink, 
N. M. chro7iiateUa is one of the most desirable and beautiful of 
all hardy Nymphaeas. The flowers are of a lovely clear yellow, and 
are produced continuously throughout the summer and late into 
the autumn. The deep green leaves are prettily marked with 
irregular blotches of dull reddish-chocolate. It is a vigorous 



878 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



grower, and may be increased by divisions of its tuberous root- 
stock. This is one of the earHest of Marliac's hybrids, and is 
also grown under the name of JV. tiiberosa flavescens. N. M. rosea 
is similar to N. M. carnea, but the flowers are a trifle smaller 
and their colour a shade deeper. A''', nitida (Siberian Water 
Lily) has pure white cup-shaped flowers of medium size, and is 
one of the earliest to blossom. It is somewhat similar in habit 
to our native species, N. alba, but less vigorous in growth, and 
does not increase so rapidly. 

N. odorata sulphurea (Fig. 580). — This and the following are 
quite distinct from any of the other hybrids in the odorata group. 
Although they are the very latest to commence flowering, they 
provide a striking contrast by their more vigorous growth, by 

the size of 
their flowers, 
and by the 
freedom with 
which they are 
produced. The 
flowers are 
sulphur-yellow, 
very fragrant, 
of the largest 
size, and have 
long, narrow- 
pointed petals, 
which give 
them a very 
attractive ap- 
pearance. The 
leaves are 
heavily marked 
with dull red- 
dish-chocolate. 
N. 0. s.grandi- 
resembles 
the preceding 
in every par- 
ticular except- 
ing that the 
flowers are a 

trifle larger and have a greater number of petals, which give 
them a more double appearance. 

N. tiiberosa (Fig. 581). — A North- American species, with large 
white flowers, of good shape, and faintly scented. This is probably 
the most vigorous grower of any of the hardy Nymphaeas ; it 
also increases rapidly by tuberous offsets, easily detached from 
the creeping rootstock. For this reason it is unsuitable for 




Fig. 580. — Nymph.^ea odorata sulphurea. 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



879 



planting in very small ponds or tanks, unless the roots are 
confined to restricted limits. IV. t. rosea is a very desirable 
variety of the preceding, the colour of the flowers being of a 




Fig, 581. — Nymph.^a tuberosa. 



pleasing tint of pale rose ; it is, however, not so vigorous in 
growth as the type. 

Group II. — JSF. caroliniana ?iivea has large, fragrant, white 
flowers, with numerous long, narrow petals, and is a very 
desirable hybrid. N. c. perfecta is similar to the preceding, but 
the flowers are of a charming soft pink or flesh-colour. 

N. Laydekeri fulgeiis is a very fine hybrid, having flowers ot 
a brilliant purplish rose, with bright orange stamens. N. L. 
Ulacea is a hybrid of slender habit, but exceedingly pretty ; the 
flowers are of medium size, very freely produced, and are of a 
rosy-lilac, with orange stamens N. L. purpiirata is more 
vigorous in habit than the preceding, and a very attractive and 
free-flowering hybrid ; the blossoms are of medium size, purplish- 
red, with deep orange stamens, and very fragrant. N. L. rosea 
is one of the most effective of the small-growing hybrids. It 
produces with remarkable freedom its charming rosy-pink flowers, 
which with age deepen considerably in tone of colour, and it is 
one of the earliest to blossom. 



88o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



N. odorata. — A North American species of moderate grovvtli, 
with medium-sized, sweetly-scented, white flowers ; the sepals and 
outer sepals on some plants are slightly tinged with pink. To 
thrive and blossom satisfactorily this species and its varieties 
should be planted in the sunniest and most sheltered positions 
that can be chosen. N. o. caroliniana is a very desirable 
hybrid of American origin ; the flowers are large and of a soft 
pink or flesh colour. N. o. exquisita is a charming hybrid of 
moderate growth, with fragrant flowers of medium size, deep 
rose colour shaded with carmine, and stamens of a deep yellow. 
N. o. minor is a very small and compact-growing variety, 
having pure white and slightly fragrant flowers. N. o. rosacea 
is one of the most desirable in this group, and somewhat 
resembles N. o. exquisita in habit of growth, but is more robust; 
the flowers, which are also fragrant, are of a rosy-pink colour, 
with deep yellow stamens. JV. o. rosea (Cape Cod Water Lily) 
is similar in habit to the type ; the flowers are of a rosy-pink 
and scented. 

N. pygmcBa is a native of Central and Northern Asia, and is 
the smallest species in cultivation. The flowers of this elegant 
little Nymphaea are pure white and sweetly scented. N. p. helvola 
is a small but exceedingly pretty hybrid, of which the preceding 
species is one of the parents. The dainty little fragrant flowers, 
which are freely produced, are of a pale primrose-yellow ; the 
leaves are dark green, prettily spotted with reddish-brown. 

New and Rare Sorts.— The following Nymphaeas are rare 
and expensive at present. With the exception of N. alba rosea 
they are all hybrids raised by M. Marliac, and include some of 
the choicest and most beautiful kinds, as well as being vigorous 
growers. N. alba rosea (TV. Caspary), commonly known as the 
Swedish W^ater Lily, has small, pale rosy-pink flowers, which 
appear very early in the season. Its flowering period is, how- 
ever, a very brief one, and it is often at rest before some sorts have 
commenced to blossom. It partakes but little of the character of 
the type, or what is considered to be such, for, apart from being a 
very shy blossomer, the plant is much less vigorous in habit, and 
does not increase very rapidly. JV. Andreana is a very free- 
flowering hybrid, with medium-sized flowers of a deep red slightly 
tinged with violet ; it is of robust habit, and the leaves are 
sparingly spotted with reddish-brown. N. aurora is a hybrid 
of compact habit ; the flowers are of a clear yellow, sometimes 
shaded with tints of rose. N. Ellisiana is an extremely beautiful 
and free-flowering hybrid of good habit: the blossoms are of 
a reddish-purple, shaded with carmine, and have bright orange- 
coloured stamens. N. fulva is a free-flowering hybrid ; its 
yellow blossoms are slightly tinged with red, and have 
orange-coloured stamens ; the leaves are spotted with reddish- 
brown. N. gloriosa is a magnificent hybridj having sweetly- 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 88 1 

scented, large, double flowers of a rich dark purplish-rose, 
shaded with carmine ; it promises to be of good habit and 
free-flowering, but at present it is one of the scarcest and most 
expensive sorts. JSF. lucida has attractive, large, star-like flowers 
of a soft, rosy-vermilion colour ; the leaves are heavily marked 
with irregularly-shaped reddish-brown blotches. N. Marliacea 
flammea is a lovely hybrid, having large flowers of an amaranth- 
red, delicately suffused with white ; it is of robust habit, and 
the leaves are marked w^ith reddish-brown. N. M. ignea 
is distinct in colour and one of the very choicest of hardy 
Water Lilies ; the flowers are large, of a brilliant reddish- 
magenta, with bright orange-coloured stamens. JV. M. rubro- 
punctata has large flowers of a deep reddish-purple, spotted with 
carmine, and stamens of a dark orange-yellow ; it is a vigorous 
grower of great merit. N. Robinsoni is a very desirable hybrid, 
with medium-sized flowers of a violet-red colour on a yellow 
ground, the centre petals being deeper in colour ; it is robust 
and compact in habit, and the dark green leaves are marked 
with unequal-sized spots of reddish-brown. N. sanguinea is 
undoubtedly one of the best of the many beautiful hybrids yet 
introduced ; the colour of the flowers may be described as a 
rich dark crimson-purple, and the orange stamens produce a 
charming contrast ; it flowers with great freedom and is of good 
habit, but at present it is very scarce and expensive. 
JV. Seignoureti has small, unattractive flowers, of a pale yellow, 
tinted with carmine-rose ; but it is of robust and compact habit. 

Other Aquatics with Floating and Submerged Leaves. 

In introducing other Aquatics w^ith floating leaves, the Nuphars, 
which are botanically closely allied to the Nymphseas, and of 
similar habit of growth, may be planted where there is a depth 
of water of from 2^ft. to 3ft. ; but they cannot be recommended 
for including in tanks or where the water is of very limited 
extent. They are vigorous-growing plants, with bold foliage, and 
withstand exposure without suffering much injury ; for this reason 
they are well adapted for situations in lakes and ponds where it 
would be difficult to establish more conspicuous flowering Aquatics 
of less vigorous habit. In choosing kinds that require a less 
depth of water in which to permanently establish themselves, the 
chief requirements in most cases will be met by making a 
selection from the most striking species in the following list, 
which likewise embraces those with submerged leaves : 

Alisma. — See Elisma. 

Aponogeton distachyon (Cape Pond Weed or Winter Haw- 
thorn) (Fig. 582). — This is one of the most desirable of floating 
Aquatics ; it blossoms the greater part of the year, and the 
forked inflorescence and showy white bracts are deliciously 

3 L 



882 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 




Fig. 



582. — Aponogeton 
distachyon 



Hawthorn-scented. It prefers 
a position where there is a 
gentle current of water, and 
increases rapidly by means of 
its tuberous offsets. 

Brasenia peltata {Hydro- 
peltis purpurea) (American 
Water Shield) is a handsome 
little plant with oval - shaped 
peltate leaves and small pur- 
plish-coloured flowers. 

Elisma natans (Floating 
Water Plantain) is a rare British plant, of small and neat habit 
of growth, and bears showy three petalled white flowers. 

Hottonia palustris (Water Violet) (Fig. 583). — This is one of 
the most beautiful of our native Aquatics. It has finely pinnate 
submerged leaves. The scapes rise above the surface of the 
water to a height 
of about i2in., and 
bear whorls of several 
pretty rosy-lilac 
coloured flowers. 

Hydrocharis 
MORSUS-RAN^ (Com- 
mon Frogbit) (Fig. 
584). — This elegant 
little plant has small 
orbicular or kidnev- 
shaped leaves and 
three-petalled white 
flowers. 

Hydrocleys Com- 
MERSONi {Limno- 
charis Hiunboldtii) 
(the Water Poppy) 
is a neat-growing, 
tender Aquatic, and 
produces pretty pale 
yellow flowers with 
great freedom. It 
is very effective 
for introducing in 
shallow water 
during the summer 
months, but requires 
the protection of a 
greenhouse in the 

winter. Ftg. 583. — Hottonia palustris. 






ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



883 



// ' .A 



4f 




LiMNANTHEMUM PELTA" 

T u M ( Vil larsia nym ph~ 
cEoides) (Fig. 585) (the 
Fringed Water Lily) is a 
free - growing ornamental 
British plant, having small 
Water Lily-like leaves and 
pretty yellow flowers, the 
segments of which are 
fimbriated, giving them a 
very attractive appearance. 
It increases rapidly, there- 
fore precaution should be 
taken in planting it, or it 
may encroach on other 
plants. 

Myriophyllum proser- 
PiNACOiDES (Water Milfoil 
or Parrot's Feather). — A 
free-growing tender Aqua- 
tic. Its stems are densely 
covered with very finely- 
cut leaves, presenting a 
pretty feathery appearance 
as they float on the water. 
This species is not suffi- 
ciently hardy to with- 
stand a severe winter, 
and, therefore, requires the protection of a greenhouse. 

NuPHAR ADVENA is a North American species having large 
peltate leaves and yellow flowers, 
with reddish-coloured anthers, 
standing well above the surface 
of the water. N. lutea (Fig. 
586) is the well-known yellow 
Water Lily of our 
ponds and rivers. 
N. piimilum (iV. Kal- 
miana) is a rare 
British species, with 
yellow flowers, and 
much smaller in all 
its parts than either 
of the preceding. 

Orontium aqua- 
TicuM (Golden 

Club).— An Aquatic Fig. 585.— Limnanthemum peltatum. 

3 L 2 




Fig. 584. — Hydrocharis morsus-ran^e. 




884 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



belonging to the x\roid family, with pretty, deep-green, velvety- 
looking, lanceolate-ovate-shaped leaves, which are floating or erect, 




Fig. 586. — NuPHAR lutea. 



according to the depth of water. The long-stalked spadix is 
covered with numerous very small flowers of a yellowish colour. 

Stratiotes aloides 
(Water Soldier) (Fig. 
587). — This is a mono- 
typic genus and an in- 
habitant of our ponds 
and slow-running waters. 
The plant — a rosette- 
like tuft of leaves — re- 
sembles a small-growing 
Aloe, and is usually 
entirely submerged, only 
floating when it is in 
flower, the tips of the 
leaves then rising above 
the surface of the water. 
It increases rapidly, and 
therefore should be kept 
under close observation, 
or it may obtrude itself 
where not wanted. 

Trapa natans (Water 
Caltrops ; Water Chest- 
nut) (Fig. 588).— A de- 
sirable Aquatic, of 
annual duration, with 
peculiarly -shaped four- 
horned fruits (Fig. 
589). The leaves have 
swollen petioles, and are 
arranged in the form 
of a rosette. 




Fig. 587. — Stratiotes aloides. 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 885 

Utricularia vulgaris (Common Bladderwort) (Fig. 590). — 
This is an interesting little British plant, having very finely-divided, 




Fig. 588. — Trapa natans. 




Fig, 589. — Fruit of Trapa natans. 

submerged leaves, which are furnished with minute vesicles, or air- 
bladders. The pale yellow flowers are borne on scapes, which 
rise about 6in. above the surface of the water. 

Erect = Growing Aquatics and Sub=Aquatics. 

When planting on the margins of ponds, tanks, or water- 
courses, advantage should be taken of the most suitable spots 
for the introduction of such subjects as are best fitted for them ; 
and this may be determined by a consideration of their heights 
and habits of growth. The stronger-growing kinds are best 
adapted for locating in the more exposed situations, and these 



886 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



should not be allowed to extend to the areas provided for those 
of less robust habits. None of the plants included in this group 

require any special 
preparation of soil, 
provided a good 
depth of mud is 
present ; but if this 
is not the case soil 
of a similar nature 
as previously recom- 
mended should be 
deposited for their 
reception. 

For the guidance 
of those who are not 
familiar with this 
class of plants, the 
following list may be 
of service in making 
a selection : — 

AcoRUS Calamus 
(Sweet Flag) (Fig. 
591). — This well- 
known plant of our 
riversides is a very 
desirable subject for 
planting in exposed 
situations where 
ample space can be 
afforded. 

-.ft 




Fig. 590. — UTE.1CULARIA VULGARIS. 



Height 
A. C. 



about 

aiirea striata is 
similar in habit to the type, but more effective, the long narrow 
leaves being prettily striped with golden-yellow. A. gramineus 
(Grass-leaved Sweet Flag) is a dwarfer and more slender-growing 
species with very narrow leaves. Height about i^ft. A. g. 
va7'iegatus resembles the type, but the leaves are handsomely 
striped with white. 

Alisma Plantago (Common Water Plantain) (Fig. 592). — This 
free-growing British Aquatic has pyramidal panicles of small, 
delicate rose-coloured flowers, which present a very light and 
graceful appearance. Height about 2^ft. 

BuTOMUS UMBELLATUS (Flowcring Rush). — This handsome 
British plant is one of the most ornamental of hardy Aquatics. 
The showy flowers, which are produced in umbels on 
long, stout scapes, are borne well above the foliage, and are of 
a rosy-lilac colour. Height from 3ft. to 4ft. 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS 



Calla palustris (Water 'Arum) 
is a dwarf-growing Aquatic with 
creeping stems and erect cordate- 
shaped leaves. The showy part of 
the inflorescence is the white flat 
spathe. Height about 6in. 

Cladium germanicum(C Maris- 
cus) (Marsh Saw Grass) is a hand- 
some tall-growing British plant, 
belonging to the Sedge family. The 
long, rigid, glaucous green leaves 
are deeply keeled, and very sharply 
serrated at the edges. Height 4ft. 
to 5ft. 

Iris Pseudacorus (^Yellow Flag 





Fig. 592. — Alisma Plantago. 



Fig. 591. — AcoRus Calamus. 

). — This familiar waterside 
plant is very suitable for 
exposed situations ; height 
about 3ft. /. P. variegatiis 
is similar in habit to the 
type, but the leaves are 
beautifully striped with white, 
which imparts a very hand- 
some appearance. 

Lysimachia thyrsiflora 
(Tufted Loosestrife) is a close- 
growing British plant, with 
short and compact racemes 
of small yellow flowers. Height 
about 2ft. 

Menyanthes trifoliata 
(Bog or Buck Bean) (Fig. 
593). — A very ornamental 
dwarf-growing British Aqua- 
tic. The handsome flowers, 
the segments of which are 
finely fimbriated on the in- 
side, are white, tinged ex- 
ternally wnth delicate pink, 
and are borne on erect 
scapes about gin. in 
height. 

Peltandra virginica 
(Arrow Arum) is an Aquatic 
of the Aroid family, with 
hastate leaves. The flowers 
are thickly set on a short 



888 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

spadix, or flower-spike, which is surrounded by a greenish-coloured 
spathe. Height about i^lt. ■ 

Phragmites communis (Common Reed) is a very graceful 
plant of vigorous habit, and the largest of the British grasses. 




Fig. 593. — Menyanthes trifoliata. 



Its large handsome panicles are of a dull purplish colour. 
Height 6ft. to loft. 

Pontederia cordata (Pickerel Weed) (Fig. 594). — An elegant 
erect-growmg plant, with heart-shaped leaves on long petioles. The 
flower-spikes, which are freely produced, bear numerous small 
pretty blue flowers, closely set together. This should be included 
in all collections of choice Aquatics. Height about 2ft. 

Ranunculus Lingua (Great Spearwort). — A vigorous-growing 
British plant with bright yellow flowers. Height about 3ft. 

RiCHARDiA AFRiCANA {Calla cBtMopicd), the Lily of the Nile, or 
Arum Lily, readily adapts itself to aquatic culture, and forms a 
very effective feature in the margin of a pond. A sunny, 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



889 



sheltered situation should be selected, and the crowns of the 
plants submerged sufficiently deep in the water to prevent them 
from becoming frozen. Although the first severe frost will cut 
the plants down, they will nevertheless restart into growth in the 
spring. 

Sagittaria sagittifolia (Common Arrow-head) (Fig. 595). — 
This well-known British plant, with its handsome sagittate leaves, 
and scapes of showy white flowers, is a very desirable subject 
for the water-garden ; height about 2ft. 6". s. flore-pleno is less 
vigorous in habit than the type, but has handsome double 
white flowers ; height about i^ft. 




Fig. 594. — PONTEDERIA cordata. 



SciRPUS LACUSTRis (Common Bulrush). — This vigorous-growing 
British plant has tall cylindrical tapering stems which produce 
a very striking effect. Height about 6ft. 

Typha angustifolia (Lesser Reed Mace) is an elegant tall- 
growing British plant with long narrow leaves ; the long. 



890 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



cylindrical flower-spikes are densely packed w^ith minute brownish- 
coloured flowers ; height about 6ft. T. latifolia (Great Reed 
Mace or Cat's Tail) is a very familiar plant of our rivers and 
ponds ; the vigour with which it grows and increases only admits 

of its being 
planted on the 
margins of 
large pieces of 
water ; height 
^ 6ft. to 7ft. 
T. Laxmaimi 
{T. mmima) 
(the Dwarf 
!^ Reed Mace) is 
much smaller 
in habit than either 
of the preceding; 
the flower-spikes are 
short, forming ob- 
long or globular- 
shaped heads. It is 
a very graceful-grow- 
ing plant, and well 
adapted for the 
margins of small 
ponds and tanks ; 
height about 2ft. 
T. steiiophylla (Slender Reed Mace) is a slender -growing plant, 
more vigorous than the preceding, but equally ornamental. 
Height about 3^ft. 

Plants for the Waterside. 

The adornment of the waterside with choice vegetation is 
equally as important as the embellishment of the water itself 
with choice Aquatics, and the arrangement of the plants should 
be such as to impart an additional feature to those plants that 
decorate the w^ater's surface. The numerous ornamental foliage 
and handsome flowering subjects that are suitable for this 
purpose, delighting in having their roots in a moisture-laden soil, 
include many of our most graceful bold-foliaged and showy- 
flowering hardy plants. In hot, dry summers, when plants in 
borders and flower-beds are languishing for the want of moisture, 
the freshness of the waterside vegetation presents an enjoyable 
contrast. 

The size and shape ot a piece of water are to a great extent 
the determining factors in the selection of the plants to introduce 
and the positions they are to occupy. For example, in planting 
the sides of large or moderate-sized ponds, ' large and 




ox AQUATIC PLANTS. 



891 



vigorous - growing plants may be introduced : where the ground 
rises prominently or projects into the water these situations 
should be furnished with those kinds that would produce the 
boldest and most striking effect. As previously stated, groups of 
a sort should be formed in preference to arranging a thin line 
of plants of various kinds around the pond, as the latter scheme 
would produce a less natural and satisfactory appearance. 
Groups of tall-growing plants should be judiciously interspersed 
with those of dwarfer habit, thus giving an irregular and also a 
more artistic effect. For the sides of small ponds or where 
space can be afforded around tanks or fountain basins only 
plants of medium height and moderate growth should be intro- 
duced, a variety of which may be selected from the kinds 
enumerated hereunder, all of which are well adapted for such 
positions. 

Foliage Plants. — Conspicuous amongst waterside plants that 
are valued chieflv for their ornamental foliasje are the siant 




Fig. 596. — Polygonum sachalinense. 



Gunneras, G. chilensis [G. scahra) and G. manicata^ with large, 
bold, cordate leaves, from 5ft. to 8ft. in diameter. The hand- 
some Rheums, R. Emodi and R. palmatiun^ are bold and effective 
plants, the former with broad ovate leaves, and the latter with 



892 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



very effective, 
be afforded 
Polygonums, 



cordate leaves, deeply incised at the margins ; their tall inflo- 
rescences are also very showy. Acanthus mollis and its more 
handsome variety latlfoltus, A. spiiiosissiniiis and A. spinosiis 
are all elegant, bold-foliaged plants, and produce showy, erect 

spikes of flowers. The 
compact-growing Funkias, 
F. Sieboldiana^ with its 
pretty glaucous foliage, 
F. ovata, and its hand- 
some variegated variety 
marginata^ are all desir- 
able subjects, and their pale 
lilac-coloured flowers are also 
Where space can 
the tall -growing 
P. sachali?iense 
(Fig. 596) and P. cuspidatu??i, 
are strikingly handsome, but 
they increase very rapidly ; there- 
fore precaution should be taken 
in locating them to prevent their 
overrunning other things. Podo- 
phyllum Emodi and P. peltatum 
(Fig. 597) are handsome dwarf- 
growing plants, with orbicular, 
peltate, five- to nine-lobed leaves ; 
a shady situation and peaty soil 
suit them admirably. Rodgersia 
podophylla has handsome, large, 
long-stalked, palmately - lobed 
leaves of a pretty pale bronzy 
colour ; the panicles of yellowish- 
white flowers are also very 
attractive. The graceful-growing 
Horsetails, Eqiiisetum sylvaticicm 
and E. Telmateia, are British 
plants with erect-growing stems 
bearing numerous whorls of long 
slender branches, the latter being the taller and more vigorous 
grower ; they are very effective for shady situations. The pretty 
Creeping Jenny, Lysimachia Niim77mlaria^ and its golden-leaved 
variety aurea, are charming little plants for covering the moist 
banks of the waterside. The Sweet Cyperus, Cyperus longus^ 
is a British plant of very graceful habit, and thrives well planted 
close to the water's edge. Scirpus Holoschoenus variegatus and 
6". Taberncemontani zebrinus are very effective variegated plants of 
moderate height, having erect, cylindrical stems, transversely 
banded with green and white, and are excellent subjects for 




Fig. 597. — Podophyllum 
peltatum. 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



situating close to the margin of the water. A similar situation 
also suits the Spiral Rush (^Ju7icus effusus spiralis), which is an 
interesting plant, with curious corkscrew-like stems. 

The following are giant members of the Grass family of very 
graceful and effective habit : Miscanthus japo?iicus, better known 
as Eidalia japonica, and its handsome variegated varieties foliis- 
striatis and zebrinus, are tall, elegant subjects, with large 
plumose panicles of purplish flowers ; their beauty is best dis- 
played when planted close to 
the w^ater's edge. The tall 
Arundo Donax, and its varie- 
gated variety, A. D. versi- 
color, are strikingly handsome 
plants, the latter being the 
tenderer and less vigorous, 
but both should be situated 
in sheltered, sunny positions, 
and their crowns protected in 
winter. Panicimi virgahim is 
a very ornamental plant, .of 
erect and robust habit, pro- 
ducing large branching pani- 
cles of flowers. The well- 
known Ribbon Grass {Fha- 
laris arujidiiiacea variegata), 
with its prettily striped leaves, 
is a very effective plant for 
the waterside. In sheltered, 
sunny situations the stately- 
growing Erianthus Rave7ince 
could be introduced with good 
effect, its bronzy - coloured 
foliage being very attractive. 
The w^ell - known Pampas 
Grass, Gyneriiuii argenteuin, 
with its long glaucous green 
leaves and handsome silvery 
panicles of flowers, is a very 
desirable subject to intro- 
duce ; as is also the North 
American Grass {Uniola lati- 
folia), with its broad flat 
leaves and graceful panicles 
of flowers. 

In the background, in drier situations, groups 
growing Bamboos might be introduced with very 
Amongst Ferns may be mentioned the Flowering 




Fig. 598. — Epilobium axgustifglium. 



of the 



stately- 
effect, 
or Royal 

Fern {Osmunda regalis) and its pretty crested variety crisiata ; 



telling 



894 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the handsome Ostrich Fern {Onoclea germanicd) and O. sensibilis ; 
and the common Harts-tongue Fern {^Scolopendriuin vulgare) and 
its numerous beautiful varieties. All of these are of vigorous 
growth and delight in moist, shady situations. 

Flowering Plants. — The following is an enumeration of 
waterside subjects having the greatest merit as flowering plants, 

their various coloured blossoms 
imparting additional life to their 
surroundings. Amongst the foremost 
of these are the handsome herba- 
ceous Spiraeas, S. Aruficus, S. 
camtschatica, and S. lohata. all being 
vigorous-growing plants, with large 
and graceful inflorescences of whitish, 
or, in the last-named species, deep 
rose-coloured flowers. Of much less 
vigorous growth, but equally as 
beautiful, are S. astilboides^ S. Ul- 
maria, and S. paimata, the former 
two with panicles of whitish, and 
the latter bright crimson-coloured 
flowers. Astilbe riviilaris^ the habit 
of which resembles some of the 
Spirseas, has large handsome panicles 
of yellowish-white flowers ; it grows 
freely close to the water's edge. 
The Purple Loosestrife, Lythru7?i 
Salicaria, and its varieties roseiwi and 
siiperbmn^ are desirable plants that 
grow vigorously when their roots are 
close to the water. A similar situa- 
tion also suits the free-flowering and 
vigorous-growing Epilobiiini hirsutitm^ 
E. angustifoiiiim (Fig. 598), and the 
pretty white E. a. album. The 
Swamp Milk Weed, Asclepias incar- 
nata, with its umbels of pretty pink 
flowers, delights in a situation close 
to the margin of water; a position 
that also meets the requirements of 
the well-known Marsh Marigold, 
Caltha paliistris., and its double- 
flowered variety, C. p. monstrosa, their rich yellow flowers being 
very effective. Iris IcEvigata (/. Kcempferi) (Fig. 599) and its many 
beautiful forms thrive when situated in a sunny position with 
an abundance of moisture at their roots. /. Montiieri is a very 
showy plant, of vigorous habit, with large lemon-yellow-coloured 
flowers, and there are other species and varieties of the genus 




Fig. 599. — Iris l^vigata. 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



895 



which might also be introduced with advantage. The well-known 
Solomon's Seal, Polygonatum multiflorum^ is a decidedly 
handsome plant for moist, shady situations ; so are the 
beautiful Primula japonica and P. sikkh?ie7isis (Fig. 600), 
groups of these plants when in blossom producing a most 
charming effect. The vigorous-growing Saxifraga peltata and 
S. purpurascens^ with their bold foliage and handsome pale 
pink and purple-coloured flowers, are desirable subjects for 
moist, sunny situations. The common Forget-me-Not, Myo- 
sotis pahistris^ is a delightful plant for wet situations, as is 
also the pretty little Grass of Parnassus, Parnassia palnstris^ 
which thrives best in a peaty soil. Lysimachia clethroides and 
L. vidgaiHs are handsome moisture-loving plants, the latter thriving 
best in a shady posi- 
tion. The Globe 
Flow^ers, Trollius 
europceus and T. 
asiaticus^ are very 
effective ; as are also 
the free - flowering 
Cardamines, C. pin- 
nata and C. pe?ita- 
phylla^ the latter 
being shade - loving 
plants. Clumps of 
the American Swamp 
Lilies, Liliiim su- 
perbum and its 
variety caroliiiianum^ 

and L. pardaHnum, fi'^x^Wj^^^ 
are conspicuous and - 

handsome subjects, -^^^^^s^^^^^m^SBfM^^^Sml^" 
preferrmg a moist, '^^^^MM^^^i?^^B|S|™ 
peaty soil and partial ' ' ^^^f^PP^^^^PRP^ 
shade; and similar 

conditions are favour- Fig. 600. — Primula sikkimensis. 

able to the well-doing 

of the pretty dwarf-growing Trillium grandiflorum. The tall 
and stately -growing herbaceous plants, Bocconia cordata and 
Meconopsis Wallichii, are very effective ; so are also the 
vigorous-growing Day Lilies, Hemerocallis flava^ H. fiilva^ 
and the double - flow^ered and variegated varieties of the 
last-named species. The handsome Yuccas, with their tall, 
branching panicles of show^y w^hite flowers, and the vigorous- 
growing Kniphofias (commonly known as Tritomas\ with 
spikes of brilliant red, yellow^, or orange - coloured flowers, 
are amongst the best for affording a bold and handsome 
effect. 




896 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Other hardy ornamental-fohaged and showy-flowering plants 
might be mentioned that are adapted for moist situations, but 
the above will suffice to show what a variety of plants we have 
to select from for adding to the picturesque appearance of the 
waterside. 

Tropical and Tender Plants. 

Everyone who has viewed a representative collection of tropical 
and tender Aquatics, such as is represented in Fig. 602, must 
have admired the great diversity of their appearance and, in 
many instances, the contrasts they present to the more familiar 
hardy ones. Forming, as they do, a class of plants requiring 
conditions resembling, as nearly as possible, those in which they 
are found thriving in their native habitats, their cultivation in this 
country has necessarily been limited to some of the principal 
establishments where these conditions have been afforded, and 
they then have gained for their enterprising owners a genuine 
appreciation of horticulturists. Foremost amongst these plants are 
the Water Lilies that have been introduced from far distant lands, 
as well as the Egyptian Lotus Lily {^Nymphcea Lotus, Fig. 601), 
which may be mentioned as one of the most noteworthy plants 
that flourished in the land of the Pharaohs, its name being 
intimately associated with a remote civilisation. Enduring as has 
been the fame of this plant, it is with its varieties and hybrids 
but one section of a class of Water Lilies that embraces several 
others possessing the best qualities of these beautiful flowers ; 
the exquisite colouring of some of them is most remarkable, and, 
in addition, some of them are delightfully fragrant. Rare as 
some of these kinds are, and consequently difficult to procure, 
their great beauty more than compensates for the expenditure 
involved in obtaining them as well as for the attention that is 
necessary in cultivating them successfully with those which are 
more generally grown and therefore more readily procurable. 
Included amongst the choicest of them are the beautiful 
clear light blue JV. gigantea from Australia, and the deeper, 
richly - coloured blue N. zanzibarensis from Zanzibar, both 
of them unique as regards their colours and the elegance of 
their flowers. Every available space in a well-constructed 
Aquatic house serves to provide a congenial situation for some 
appropriate plant that will then display itself to the best 
advantage, and there are many suitable for this purpose. Sub- 
ordinate effects should always be studied if flowering plants be 
introduced when the Nymphaeas and other showy Aquatics are 
in blossom ; and this may be best effected with the aid of a 
sufficient number of ornamental foliaged plants of suitable sizes; 
otherwise the practice might detract from what should be the 
leading and most pleasing feature of a structure designed for 
the cultivation of tropical Aquatics. 



i 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 897 

Only since the introduction of hot - water apphances for 
heating horticultural buildings has the cultivation of these plants 
been undertaken on a comprehensive scale, the most complete 
collections having been at first formed in botanic gardens, 




where for many years they have received special attention. 
Excepting in a limited number of instances their cultivation, 
save in these establishments, has not been undertaken with 
such an enterprising spirit as they merit, or as in the case 
of plants which have a greater cornmercial value, but 

3 



898 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



which in many cases have a flowering period of much 
shorter duration. Few instances can be cited of them 
having been subjected to outdoor cultivation in this country 
where waste steam or hot - water has been utihsed for 
increasing the temperature of the water ; but where these 
experiments have been made they may be said to have 
been attended with fairly satisfactory results. One has, however, 
to seek much further for data of this kind, and in doing so to 
gladly recognise the enthusiasm of the American cultivators of 
tropical Aquatics ; for it is in the United States that progress, 
especially in latter years, has been most noteworthy, where 
more favourable conditions prevail than those of this country, 
the chief of them being a more suitable climate. Regarding 
their general cultivation in this country, it is in suitably- 
constructed heated tanks under glass that the best results are 
invariably attained, as these afford a choice of positions adapted for 
the accommodation of particular kinds free from the disadvantages 
of the too variable temperature of the atmosphere. Distributed 
over a very wide range in tropical countries, the Nymphaeas 
include sorts which naturally present individual divergences of 
constitution and habits of growth that the observant cultivator 
will not fail to note, and which will provide an indication of 
details relating to their treatment of much practical service to 
him. 

During the winter months the Lily tank (Fig. 602) is least 
attractive, but even then, provided goldfish have been introduced 
in sufficient numbers, it is not altogether devoid of interest ; and 
these fish are decidedly an acquisition as well as being serviceable 
in checking confervoid growths and insect pests when the Aquatics 
are in growth. To view a collection of these lovely tropical Lilies 
in flower during the daytime is always gratifying, but it is then 
only possible to see a partial display of their glories. To do so 
in the late hours of night when the night-flowering section 
expand their large and showy blossoms is a revelation of beauty 
that must be seen to be fully appreciated, and there is certainly 
a new delight to be experienced by those who may not as yet 
have been afforded an opportunity of doing so. 

Houses. — In the construction of a house for the cultivation 
of Tropical Nymph^as and other Aquatics, the span-roofed 
form is the most suitable to adopt, as this admits the greatest 
amount of light, which is a most essential condition to their 
successful cultivation. The roof should not be too lofty, for this 
is also an important point in connection with the conditions to 
be observed in their treatment. As no shading w411 be required, 
it is all the more necessary that the house should be glazed 
with good clear glass, as sometimes, through the presence of 
air-bubbles in the glass, w^hich focus the sun's rays, heat 
is conducted which scorches holes in ' the leaves, thereby 



3 2 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 901 

disfiguring the plants. Ventilation should be amply provided, 
both in the sides of the house and in the roof, for Aquatics 
generally, and Nymphaeas in particular, when in full growth 
require abundance of air on hot, sunny days. Around the 
inside of the house, abutting on the walls, benches or borders 
may be formed for the accommodation of ornamental plants ; or 
small tanks or beds may be constructed for the culture of 
Aquatics, or moisture-loving plants. For heating the house, suffi- 
cient piping should be introduced to ensure a minimum 
temperature of from 65deg. to yodeg. Fahr., and this will provide 
for the maintenance of a higher temperature when desired, and 
will minimise the amount of piping necessary to be employed 
for heating the tank. 

Tank. — A tank for the reception of the Aquatics should be 
constructed in the centre of the house, and whatever the 
desired shape may be, whether entirely sunk in the ground, 
or partly above the ground-level, a firm foundation must be 
first secured. The bottom should be made perfectly solid with 
a layer of bricks well bedded in cement and sand, and on the 
top of this course a good thickness of stone or brick rubble 
concrete should be added. The walls may be built with either 
brick, concrete, or stone, the thickness of which will largely 
depend upon the size of the tank. If it be desired to have 
a tank from 20ft. to 30ft. in diameter and about 2ft. 6in. in 
depth, walls i2in. thick to within loin. of the top, and from 
that point sloping outwardly, with the masonry set in cement, 
would be sufficiently strong. The tank should afterwards be 
faced both inside and out with about lin. coating of good 
cement, and the surface smoothly finished off to make it 
watertight. On the inside, formed against the walls, a few 
beds, enclosed in brickwork, may be introduced for the ac- 
commodation of strong, erect-growing Aquatics ; these should 
reach to about 6in. below the top of the tank, so as to admit 
of their being submerged to a depth of 3in. or 4in. when the 
water is at its normal height. A raised tank has the advantage 
of bringing the Lilies and dwarf-growing Aquatic plants closer 
to the eye ; but the formal appearance of plain external 
masonry may in some instances be objectionable. It might, 
however, be made interesting and pretty by forming a little 
rockwork close against the wall, which might be furnished 
with a variety of trailing and other dwarf - growing plants 
adapted for the purpose. In favour of a tank sunk in the 
ground, it may be urged that a better view of the tall-growing 
Aquatic and sub-Aquatic plants is obtained, and if the top of the 
masonry be surmounted with a stout, ornamental iron rail, on 
which a selection of choice plants of climbing habit might be 
trained, it would present a very effective appearance and at the 
same time afford protection. 



902 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Heating.— For heating a tank of the dimensions given, two 
4in. pipes (a flow and return) carried round the inside, about 6in. 
from the walls and the same distance from the bottom, will be 
quite sufficient, and these should be furnished with valves on the 
outside of the tank to allow of regulating the temperature of 
the water. An air-pipe should be fitted to the flow-pipe at its 
highest point, to release any air or steam that may accumulate 
m the pipes. The tank should be furnished with a plentiful 
supply of water, and a tap connected with the service-pipe, so 
that it can be turned on to its full capacity when the tank 
required refilling, or regulated to a gentle flow when the Aquatics 
are in full growth, or as desired. An overflow stand-pipe is 
also necessary, the top of which should reach to nearly the full 
height of the tank. If constructed in two parts somewhat on 
the telescope principle, so that the upper portion may be raised 
or lowered by sliding or screwing into the bottom part, means 
will thus be afforded for keeping the water at any desired height. 
A large brass perforated cap similar to the rose of a watering- 
can should be fitted to the top of the overflow-pipe to prevent 
floating matter from choking it, and the escape of small Aquatics. 
This stand-pipe should be situated conveniently close to 
the wall. It should be fitted into another pipe, set level 
with the bottom of the tank and connected with the drain pro- 
vided, so that when any operations necessitate the tank being 
emptied the stand-pipe could be removed and the water readfly 
drained off. 

If it should be considered desirable to paint any part of the 
tank that is above the ground-level, it will be best to defer doing 
so for a time, as the new cement would blister the pa.int and 
cause it to peel off. 

It is not advisable to plant a new tank immediately after it 
is finished, but it may be filled with water, which should be 
allowed to stand (or at least a week. The scum that will 
have by this time accumulated on the surface should be 
flushed and syringed off, and the tank then filled up with fresh 
water. 

Arrangement of Tubs, Pots, etc. — The next important 
operations are the arrangement of the tubs or large pots in 
the tank, and preparing the soil in which the Aquatics are to 
he planted. Of course brick enclosed beds may be more 
freely introduced where plenty of room is afforded for growing 
very large specimens ; but in a tank of limited dimensions where 
it is desired to grow several plants of moderate size, tubs or 
large pots will be the most suitable, as these have the advantage 
of being readily moved. If tubs are employed — and perhaps they 
are preferable for an indoor tank — a very useful size will be 
found in those measuring about i8in. square, and the same in 
depth, with the angles securely dovetailed. They are best made 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



of well-seasoned lin. elm boards, as this wood is very durable 
when submerged in water. 

Culture. — The Nymphcea family is represented by so many 
species and varieties of decided merit that they should occupy 
a great portion of the tank ; therefore, it will be best to treat 
upon their culture first. From their habit of growth it is 
necessary that they should occupy the central part of the tank, 
the tubs or pots when in position being about 5ft. apart, and 
arranged alternately, so as to utilise all available surface space 
for the foliage. For Nymphaeas to display their greatest beauty, 
in respect of both size and colour of their flowers, when under 
artificial treatment, they must have a good rich compost ; and, 
unless this is afforded them, it is only courting disappoint- 
ment to attempt their cultivation. If our common Water Lily 
{N. alba) when growing in a wild state furnishes any criterion, it 
will be found that it thrives most luxuriantly where the natural 
bed of the river or pond is of a clayey description, or where 
there is a deposit of accumulated mud, enriched with decomposed 
vegetable and other matter, in which its thick, fleshy roots can 
become deeply emibedded. This suggests that efl'orts should be 
made when cultivating it artificially to provide a soil which 
the action of the water will reduce to a somewhat similar state. 
To accomplish this a compost should be prepared consisting 
of good, rich, heavy loam, containing an admixture of 
clay, and to this should be added a good proportion of well- 
decomposed cow or stable manure as well as a small quantity 
of leaf-soil, but the last-named is not absolutely necessary. If it 
is convenient to procure the loam from an old pasture, the top 
spit should be selected, and this should be stacked for about 
twelve months, so as to destroy all live vegetation ; it will then 
be in a better condition for use. When preparing the compost 
the loam should be chopped up fairly coarse, and to every three 
parts of this should be added one part of the cow or horse 
manure — the former for preference. This, when well incorporated, 
will form a compost of a tenacious nature, suited to the wants 
of the plants. The soil should be placed in the house for a few 
days previous to its being required, so that it may get moderately 
warmed before being used. 

When filling the tubs and planting, the soil should be pressed 
firmly down and around the plants or tubers to within 3in. of 
the top, which should be surfaced with about lin. of sand, to 
prevent (as far as possible) the manure in the soil from rising 
and discolouring the water. If the tubs or pots are filled too 
full, the action of the water causes the soil to swell and run 
over the sides ; allowances must therefore be made for this 
contingency. When the water in the tank is at its normal height, 
a depth of from loin. to i2in. above the crown of the plants 
will be found sufficient. 



904 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



As tropical Nymphaeas may be definitely classed in two 
divisions — namely, those displaying their flowers by day, and 

others that do so by night 
— the best effect will be 
secured if they are planted 
alternately, so as to have 
them equally distributed 
over the tank, with due 
regard to the distribution 
of their colours. The Lotus 
and the stellata section 
form two distinct groups of 
Water Lilies, the former 
embracing colours ranging 
from white to deep red, and 
the latter from pale to deep 
blue. As soon as the boxes 
are planted, the tank should 
be filled with water. By 
turning the heat fully on 
in the hot-water pipes, the 
water will be warmed as it 
gradually rises. This will 
not in any way interfere 
with the planting at the 
sides, as the plants situated 
there, excepting the floating 
ones, will be in beds or in 
pots resting on shelves or 
brick columns, provided for 
those which only require a 
shallow depth of water 
above the surface of the 
soil. Tall and vigorous- 
growing Aquatics, such as 
Cyperus Papyrus^ Thalia 
dealbata (Fig. 603), and 
Sagittaria montevideiisis^ 
should be planted in beds, 
to form good bold clumps, 
and any old or superfluous 
growth should be cut away 
before planting : this should 
be done firmly, leaving the 
Fig. 603. — Thalia dealbata. crowns just above the top 

of the soil. The smaller- 
growing kinds should be accommodated in pots at the sides with 
the surface of the soil just submerged. 




ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



The Nelumbiums, which form such an important feature in an 
Aquatic - house with their large, orbicular - peltate leaves and 
massive flowers — yellow, white, and various shades of rose- — 
require very liberal treatment at the roots and plenty of space 
for their long, fleshy rhizomes to develop in. When preparing a 
bed for their reception, the soil should consist of rich, heavy 
loam (as previously recommended for Nymphaeas), two parts, and 
one of good decomposed cow or horse manure, well incorporated. 
The soil should be firmly pressed down, planting the rhizomes 
horizontally, and covering them to a depth of about 6in. 
Nelumbiums are very impatient of root-disturbance, therefore 
they should seldom be interfered with, even when they are well 
established, beyond giving them an annual surfacing of good rich 
soil. They can be successfully grown in tubs or large pots, 
but the best results are obtained when space admits of their 
being treated as described above. 

The floating Aquatics, or those kinds that do not necessarily 
require soil in which to grow, form especial objects of beauty 
when established in small colonies at the sides of the tank, and 
these include the Water Lettuce — Pistia Stratiofes, a pretty 
rosette-like plant with pale green leaves ; Limnobium bogotense, 
which has little, round, deep green, shining leaves ; and the 
elegant, little, fern-like annual, Salvinia natans^ which reproduces 
itself from spores. 

The most suitable time for planting Nymphaeas in an indoor 
tank is from the middle to the end of February, and this also 
applies to the majority of tender Aquatics. Of course, the 
occasional introduction of additional plants will occur during 
the growing season — it may be of annuals or plants which are 
best treated as such — -and these may be included at any time, as 
they will in no way interfere with the general planting and 
arrangement of the tank for the year. When this has all been 
done, the temperature of the water in the tank should be kept 
at about yodeg. Fahr., with a gradual rise as the summer 
advances ; it should then not be allowed to exceed 8odeg., but 
this shoald be maintained as uniformly as possible during the 
summer months. The house should be freely ventilated on 
bright sunny days, and the paths and sides occasionally damped 
down to prevent the atmosphere from becoming too dry, closing 
the ventilators in the afternoon while the sun is still on the house, 
and at the same time giving the plants a good syringing and the 
paths and sides a thorough damping down. Should green or 
black aphis affect them, fumigation, which is very effectual, should 
be resorted to ; but before this is done, the surface of the foliage 
should be quite dry, or it will become disfigured. As the season 
draws towards its close, the temperature of the water in the tank 
should be gradually diminished to about 6odeg. Fahr., and this 
should be maintained throughout the winter months. 



9o6 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

When the season for replanting comes round, before operations 
are commenced it will be advisable to run all the water out of 
the tank, as this will greatly facilitate the planting, and no fear 
need be apprehended that the plants to be re-introduced will 
come to any harm, providing care is taken in removing them, as 
practically they will be at rest and without much foliage. It will 
also be obvious that the more expeditiously the work can be 
accomplished, consistently with proper care, the more satisfactory 
will be the results. With few exceptions the Nymphaeas will 
then be quite devoid of foliage, and especial care should be 
taken when emptying the tubs of soil so as not to overlook any 
of the tubers. Some sorts increase very slowly, but the Lotus 
section are quite the reverse, being vigorous growers, and pro- 
portionately productive of tubers. Should a tuber of either of 
this latter section by chance get into a tub of another sort of 
weaker habit it will soon establish itself and take entire possession. 
The tubers, when removed from the tubs, should be placed in pots 
of damp moss, and each sort labelled to prevent any confusion 
arising when replanting is in progress. Tubs or large pans filled 
with water should be conveniently to hand for the accommodation 
of the floating plants, and wet moss will be found very useful 
for covering the roots of others when removed from the tank. 

The tubers of Water Lilies during their resting period are best 
left in the tubs in which they have been growing, but if it is 
necessary to remove them they can be safely kept in wet soil or 
sand in a warm house ; and those sorts that do not die down 
entirely should be kept in pots of soil, submerged in pans of 
water and placed in a similar position. 

Propagation. — Aquatics can be raised from seeds at any time 
during the growing season, but the best results are obtained 
if the sowing is done early in the spring, excepting in the case 
of the Royal Water Lily ( Victoria regia and Euryale ferox)^ to 
which special reference will be made later on in this chapter 
when describing their culture. Seedling tropical Aquatics can 
be raised in an ordinary plant-stove if the temperature of the 
water can be maintained at about 75deg. Fahr. A simple 
and easy method to adopt is to sow the seeds in small 
pots or pans, about two-thirds filled with fine loamy soil, which 
should be firmly pressed down, and the seeds lightly covered. 
They should then receive a thorough soaking of w^ater, and be 
allowed to stand for a short time before being submerged in 
jars or vessels of water, allowing about 2 in. depth of water to 
cover the tops of the pots. Of course, tanks or cisterns, in which 
the water is of a suitable temperature, may be used ; but if the 
water is constantly disturbed by some of it being taken out, it 
will have an injurious effect on seedling plants, and there will 
be the risk of seeds being washed out of the pots. Care should 
also be taken not to entirely fill the pots with soil, or the action 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



of the water will cause it to swell and float over the sides, as 
before stated, which would probably result in the loss of the 
seeds. The seeds of many of the Nymphaeas germinate quickly, 
and if sown early in the spring and the seedlings are pricked 
off as soon as they are large enough to handle, afterwards 
transferred singly into pots filled with good, rich soil, 
and the depth of water above their crowns increased as 
the plants develop, they should form flowering plants before 
the season is over. This remark particularly applies to the 
stellata group, the seeds of which germinate in about a fortnight, 
and, as the roots of the majority of them increase very slowly, 
this is the quickest and best method of propagating them. The 
seeds of the Lotus section require about double the time to 
germinate, and, unless it is with a view to raising new sorts, they 
are scarcely worth the trouble, as they all, as previously stated, 
increase rapidly by means of tubers. Nelumbiums are easily 
raised from seeds, the germination of which can be greatly 
facilitated by carefully reducing the thickness of one side of the 
hard outer covering of the seeds with a file, after which process 
they will germinate in a few days : otherwise they will require 
several weeks. They will also germinate in water placed in a 
warm house, but this is not a better method than the preceding. 
The seeds retain their vitality for a great length of time, owing 
to the extreme hardness of their outer covering. 

If it is desired to grow a plant of the Royal Water Lily, 
Victoria regia, with other Aquatics in a tank, as previously 
described, this will necessarily require the central part of the 
tank. In this case a pit should be formed in the centre about 
I Sin. in depth and large enough to contain from three to 
four cart-loads of soil; otherwise there would not be a sufficient 
depth of water above the crown of the plant. Where a tank is 
constructed especially for the cultivation of this Giant Lily of 
the Amazon — and it well merits such accommodation — it may 
be treated as an annual, and will then only occupy the tank from 
the spring till the autumn. The place can then be cleared out 
and utilised for the reception of large specimen plants, either 
arranged in the tank or on a temporarily-constructed staging of 
planks, supported at the sides and in the centre by trestles or 
brick columns. It will also serve to accommodate tender plants 
removed from their summer quarters out of doors, and thus be 
rendered attractive throughout the winter months. 

To cultivate the Victoria satisfactorily it requires very liberal 
treatment at the roots, a large tank in which to grow, and the 
temperature of the water to be kept at from Sodeg. to 85deg. 
during the summer months. Although of perennial duration, it 
is usually treated as an annual, and the ease with which seedlings 
are raised where a temperature of 85deg. can be maintained 
renders this practice, in most cases, the better and more 



9o8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



convenient to pursue. The seeds^ which usually take about 
eighteen to twenty days to germinate, should be sown about the 
end of January in a pan of soil, and submerged in water of the 
temperature already given. As soon as the seedlings are large 
enough to handle, they should be transferred singly into small 
pots, and when necessary shifted into larger ones containing good 
rich soil. The pots should be so submerged that the crowns of 
the plants are only a few inches below the surface of the water, 
increasing the depth as the plants grow stronger. Another plan 
sometimes adopted, and which has been attended with good 
results, is to place the seeds directly in the mound of soil in 
which it is purposed to establish them. • If the former 
method is adopted, the plant selected will be sufficiently strong 
by the end of March to remove to the tank in which it is to 
grow. 

The soil, composed of two parts stiff loam and one part well- 
decomposed cow manure, having been prepared for its reception, 
the plant should be firmly fixed in the centre of the heap of 
soil with the crown about i8in. below the surface of the water. 
It delights in abundance of sunlight, therefore the house should 
not be shaded in any way, nor should the temperature be allowed 
to vary much, as this would be injurious and check growth. The 
temperature of the house should never be allowed to fall below 
75deg., and during mild weather ventilation should be freely 
afforded and the plant occasionally syringed during the day.' 
When the leaves have attained about 2ft. in diameter, the 
edges on a strong, healthy plant begin to turn up, the 
depth of margin increasing according to its vigour ; 
this is a characteristic that - is never so marked in a plant 
of less robust health. Towards the end of June, provided the 
plant has made good progress, it should have reached its full 
size and flowering stage, when ample ventilation should be given. 
It produces a new leaf on an average about every three days : 
therefore it will be obvious that some of them will have to be 
removed to prevent overcrowding ; this is best done as soon as 
they appear, only reserving those that are required to replace 
old ones that have become imperfect. For the benefit of the 
plant the old flowers should also be removed, unless it be 
desired to save seeds, in which case an early flower or two 
should be selected for that purpose, and should be artificially 
fertilised. It is noteworthy that shortly before the fruit is matured 
the peduncle rapidly elongates to several feet, a means provided 
by Nature for the distribution of the seeds. Each fruit contains 
numerous round, brownish-green seeds, about the size of an 
ordinary garden pea, and these take about ten weeks to ripen. 
Before reaching maturity they should be enclosed in a muslin 
bag to secure them when the fruit bursts. When this occurs, the 
seeds should be taken from the bag, put in a jar filled with 



r 

ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 909 

water, and kept at a temperature from 6odeg. to 65deg. until 
wanted for sowing. 

The special treatment that the Lattice-leaf Plant, Aponogeton 
fenestrak, requires in order to produce a luxuriant growth does 
not admit of its inclusion in a tank with Aquatics that require 
abundance of light and sunshine. A tub about 3ft. in diameter 
and i^ft. in depth is a very suitable receptacle in which to culti- 
vate it. This should be situated in a warm plant-house in a 
position where the hght may be subdued and the temperature 
of the water maintained at from 6odeg. to 65deg. in the winter, 
and from yodeg. to 75deg. during the summer months. A suitable 
compost in which to plant it is one consisting of good fibrous 
loam, a little leaf-soil, and a good sprinkling of coarse silver 
sand. An Sin. or loin. pot is sufficiently large to accommodate 
a good-sized specimen, and the soil should be pressed firmly 
into the pot, afterwards covering the surface with small, white 
stones, or spar, to keep the soil from rising in the water ; these 
also serve another purpose, displaying to better advantage the 
formation of the leaves. The crown of the plant should be 
submerged about 2in. beneath the surface of the water. It is 
most important that the water be clean and as free from 
sediment as possible, rain-water being far preferable ; further, 
it should not be allowed to become stagnant, or confervoid 
growths will make their appearance, and injure the plant. To 
prevent this as far as possible, some of the water should be 
drawn off about once a w^eek by means of a siphon, and the 
tub filled up with fresh water of about the same temperature. 
If this does not check their appearance, a good method to adopt 
is to cover up the plant and exclude all light for a few^ days, 
when the confervoid growths can be easily syringed off and flushed 
over the rim of the tub. It is beneficial to the plant for the tub 
to be filled to overflowing by adding a little fresh water every 
day by means of a watering-can with a fine rose ; or the same 
result maybe attained (excepting that there is a continual slight 
■agitation of the w^ater) by a constant drip conducted by means 
of a siphon from another vessel situated at a higher level. 
This will cause the water to run over at the sides, and any dirt 
that may have become deposited on the surface will be thus 
removed. Propagation of the Lattice -leaf Plant is effected 
by means of divisions of the root-stock and also by seeds. 
It is rather a capricious subject to cultivate, for treatment 
that suits it in one place sometimes disagrees with it in 
another, which perhaps may be owing to foreign matter held 
in suspense by the w^ater. As is the case with many other 
plants, its successful cultivation greatly depends on apparently 
trifling details, but a well-grown specimen is a unique object 
of beauty well deserving all the careful attention bestowed 
on it. 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



The under-mentioned is a General List of Tropical and 
Tender Nymphaeas grouped in Day- and Night - Flowering 
divisions, in order that a selection may be the more readily 
made ; observations on Victoria regia and Eiiryale ferox are also 
included. 

Day - Flowering Nymph^as. — N. cape?isis (iV! scutifoHa), a 
native of the Cape of Good Hope, has fragrant flowers that are 
above medium size, the colour being a beautiful clear blue ; it is 
extremely floriferous, and one of the earliest to expand its 
flowers in the morning, but invariably closes them earlier in the 
day than any other day-flowering kind. The plant is of vigorous 
growth, with large, pale green leaves prettily scalloped at the 
margins ; it is very handsome, and merits being represented in 

all collections of tropi- 
cal Water Lilies. N. 
Da2ibenyana (Fig. 
604) is a very hand- 
some hybrid between 
N. stellata and N. 
micrantha ; it origi- 
nated in the Oxford 
Botanic Garden, and 
is named in honour 
of Dr. Charles 
Daubeny, a former 
Professor of Botany 
of that University. 
The sweetly - scented, 
medium - sized, star- 
shaped flowers are of 
a pale blue, and have 
yellow stamens tipped 
with blue ; their 

fragrance is pro- 
FiG. 604. — Nymph.^la Daubenyana. nouncedly that of 

Violets ; it is perhaps 

the most floriferous, and the period of its flowering is 
longer than that of any Water Lily in cultivation, in fact, 
it might be termed a perpetual flowerer, for it is seldom 
out of blossom ; it is of the easiest culture, readily propagated, 
and of vigorous growth. Like its parent N. micrantha^ it 
is distinguished by the formation of viviparous buds on 
the upper surface in the angles of the lobes of the leaves, 
which soon develop into small plants and often produce 
flowers about the size of a penny-piece when they are still 
attached to the parent plant. Its excellent qualities entitle it 
to be included in the most select collections. N. elegaiis is 
a Mexican species, with fragrant flowers of medium size, and of 




ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



911 



a whitish colour tinged with blue; the small oblong-shaped leaves 
are of a deep green, marked on the upper surface with dark 
brown spots ; it is a very desirable plant of moderate growth. 
JY. Jlava, a native of Florida, has clear yellow flowers below 
medium size ; the leaves are small, deep green, and irregularly 
blotched with reddish - brown. It is of slender growth but 
increases rapidly by means of tubercles formed on the long 
slender rhizomes ; the stoloniferous growth that it freely 
produces should be removed to encourage it to flower with 
more freedom. It is sometimes grown in the open air in this 
country but is scarcely hardy, and being a very shy blossomer 
at its best, it does not merit inclusion in other than botanical 
collections. 

JV. gigantea (Australian Water Lily) is one of the handsomest 
and most distinct species in the genus. The beautiful deep, 
cup-shaped flowers are of the largest size, and contain a great 
number of petals of a lovely rich clear blue, with numerous 
yellow incurved stamens, none of which are petaloid (as is 
usually the case in other kinds); the leaves are large and of a 
pale green. It is rather difficult to manage compared with many 
other sorts : to grow it satisfactorily it requires very liberal 
treatment, a high and uniform temperature, a good depth of 
water above its crown in which to grow, and as little 
disturbance as possible. This treatment will ensure a vigorous 
plant and large flowers, suggestive of the appropriateness of the 
specific name it bears. N. gracilis^ a native of Mexico, has 
sweetly - scented white flowers which are freely produced ; the 
petals are long and pointed, which gives to the blossom a pretty 
star-like appearance. It is of vigorous habit, and a very 
desirable species. N. mexka?ia, as its specific name implies, is 
a native of Mexico. It very closely resembles JV. Jlava in 
habit of growth and other respects, the chief differences 
lying in its greater freedom of flowering, and in the flowers 
being a shade deeper in colour, which trifling distinctions 
perhaps scarcely entitle it to specific rank. N. micrantha 
is a native of Western Africa, with whitish - coloured flowers 
below medium size ; it is of moderate growth, and remark- 
ably distinct from any other species, owing to its producing 
viviparous buds in the angle of the lobes of the leaves on the 
upper surface, which eventually develop into separate plants. 
N. pulcherrima^ a hybrid of American origin, is held in high 
estimation by horticulturists in the United States ; it is described 
as being of vigorous habit and very floriferous, with very large 
light blue flowers, which open early in the morning and remain 
expanded longer during the day than most other kinds. 

N. stellata {^N. arriiiea), a native of tropical Asia and Africa, 
is the blue Lotus held sacred by the ancient Egyptians ; it has 
sweetly-scented medium-sized star-shaped flowers of a pale blue, 



912 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



shading to a lighter hue towards the base of the petals. The 
plant is of moderate growth, with pale green leaves, which are 
sometimes sparsely spotted on the upper surface with reddish- 
brown. There are several handsome varieties of this very free- 
flowering and desirable species, varying in vigour of growth 
and the tone of colour of the flowers. N. s. cyaiiea is a 




Fig. 605. — Nymph^a zanzibarensis. 



desirable and free-flowermg variety of the preceding ; the flowers 
are sweetly scented, similar in shape to those of the type but 
larger, and a shade paler in colour ; it is also of more vigorous 
growth. N. s. versicolor is a small-flowered variety of a faint 
bluish colour, slightly suffused w^ith pale rose ; it is slender in 
habit, and is remarkable for the numerous small tubers it 
produces, which are not characteristic of the stellata section. 
N. zanzibarensis (Fig. 605) is a native of Zanzibar, as the specific 
name implies ; it is the darkest blue Water Lily known. The 
flowers are sweetly scented, very large, and of a beautiful shape ; 
it is of very vigorous growth, with large deep green leaves, and 
is of the easiest possible culture. Its long period of flowering, 
and the freedom with which it produces its magnificent rich deep 
blue flowers, justly entitle it to a place in every collection of 
tropical Aquatics. The habit of the plant and the formation 
of the flower suggest its being closely allied to the stellata section. 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



N. z. azurea is a handsome free-flowering variety, the blossoms 
being a Kttle paler in colour than in the type. In N. z. rosea 
the flowers are of a deep rosy-pink. 

Night-Flowering NvMPHyEAS. — N. amazonwn^ a native of 
South America, has fragrant yellowish - white flowers, below 
medium size. The plant is of moderate growth, with smallish 
leaves, which are light green on the upper surface, and reddish 
beneath. N. ampla^ a native of the West Indies, has whitish 
flowers of the largest size ; it is of vigorous growth, with large 
purplish-green leaves, deeply toothed at the margins, and marked 
on the upper surface with irregular-shaped dark brown blotches. 
It is closely 
allied to the 
Lotus section, 
and increases 
freely by means 
of tubers. N. 
Boucheana is a 
hybrid raised 
in the Berlin 
Botanic Gar- 
dens, in 1853, 
between N. 
Lotus andi\'^Z. 
rubra, the latter 
being the seed- 
bearing parent. 
The flowers 
are large, of a 
pleasing soft 
rose colour, 
slightly tinged 
with purplish- 
carmine, pas- 
sing to a lighter Fig. 606. — Xymph^a devoniensis. 
hue towards 

the base of the petals. The plant is of robust habit, with large 
leaves, scalloped, and sharply serrated at the margins ; it is a 
free-flowering and very desirable hybrid. N. Deaniana is a 
hybrid of American origin, producing large clear rosy-pink flowers 
very freely ; it is of vigorous growth, with large bronzy leaves, 
and belongs to the Lotus section. N. devoJiiensis (Fig. 606) is a 
reputed hybrid between N. Lotus and N. L. rubra, the latter 
being the seed-bearer ; it is stated to have been raised at Chats- 
worth in 1 85 1, and named in honour of a former Duke of 
Devonshire. It is a magnificent Water Lily, with flowers of 
the largest size and of a rich deep red. The freedom with 
which it flowers, combined with its robust habit, entitles it 

3 N 




914 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



to inclusion in the most select collections. The leaves are 
large, of a bronzy-green, deeply and sharply toothed at the 
margins. JV. Eugenie is a hybrid of Continental origin, with 
large flowers, containing fewer petals than many of the other 
forms of the Lohis section ; they are of a soft carmine-rose, paler 
in colour towards the base of the petals. It is a free-growing 
plant with large leaves, the upper surface being of a dull bronzy- 
green, marked with reddish-brown blotches, and the margins 
sharply serrated ; were it more floriferous it would be a decided 
acquisition. N. kewensis is a hybrid between N. devoiiiensis and 




Fig. 607. — NY-MPH.qiA Lotus dentata. 

N. Lotus, the latter being the seed-bearing parent ; it originated 
at Kew in 1885. The plant is similar in habit to, and equally 
as vigorous in growth as, the first-named parent, but the petals of 
the flowers are a trifle broader and more rounded at the points; 
these are of a bright rosy-red, shading off to a much lighter hue 
towards their base. They are large, freely produced, and keep 
open longer in the morning than most other kinds of the Lotus 
section. 

N. Lotus (Egyptian Water Lily, or Lotus of the Nile) has large 
white flowers, with sometimes a suspicion of pale pink in the 
sepals and outer petals ; the leaves are peltate, deep green, and 
sharply serrated at the margins. This is the type of many beautiful 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 915 

forms that differ more or less in the shape and size of their 
flowers, and also in colour, which varies from pure white to the 
deepest red. They are increased rapidly by means of tubers (which 
is a characteristic of the Lotus section), and are also the most 
vigorous growers of any Water Lilies in cultivation. N. L. dentata 
(Fig. 607), a native of Sierra Leone, is a free-flowering and 
magnificent variety, with flowers of the largest size and of the 
purest white. It is quite distinct from any other known kind 
by the arrangement of the petals when the flowers are expanded : 
on the first day of opening these are arranged horizontally, but 
on the second and third days they are decidedly reflexed. The 
very large, deep green, peltate leaves are prettily scalloped and 
sharply serrated at the margins. This is one of the handsomest, 
and, without doubt, the purest white Water Lily in cultivation. 
N. L. monstrosa^ introduced by Sir John Kirk in 1886 from 
Lake Nyassa, is an interesting variety owing to the flower-buds 
usually being transformed into tubers, which eventually form 
plants. Occasionally a normal flower is produced, which, like 
the growth of the plant, closely resembles the type ; the deep 
green leaves, however, are more freely marked on the upper 
surface with longitudinal and irregular-shaped blotches of dark 
brown. The plant is more curious than beautiful. N. L. rubra ^ 
a native of the East Indies, is a very desirable and free-flowering 
variety with large deep red flowers, the petals of which are much 
broader than in the type ; the large, peltate leaves are sharply 
serrated at the margins, and are of a handsome dark coppery 
colour on the upper surface. N. L. thermalis (Hungarian Lotus), 
a native of the hot springs of Hungary, very closely resembles 
the type in every respect ; the flowers are faintly scented, and are 
white with a slight tinge of pink on the under-side of the sepals 
and outer petals. 

N. O'Marana is a beautiful hybrid of American origin," the 
result of a cross between N. L. dentata and N. Sturtevantii (itself 
a hybrid). The flowers are very large, of a bright rosy-red, and 
freely produced. The plant is of robust habit, with large bronzy 
leaves Avhich are deeply toothed at the margins. It is of recent 
introduction, and when better known will probably be much 
sought after. 'N. Ortgiesiana is a free-flowering and very desirable 
hybrid of Continental origin, the result of a cross between 
N. L. dentata and N. L. rubra, the latter being the seed-bearer. 
The flowers are of the largest size, of a bright rosy-red, with 
deep orange-red stamens. It is a vigorous-growing plant of easy 
culture, with large leaves of a bronzy-green colour on the upper 
surface, and prettily scalloped and sharply serrated at the margins. 
JV. Sturtevantii, a hybrid of great beauty, originated in the 
establishment of Mr. E. D. Sturtevant, of New Jersey, who has 
made a speciality of Aquatics, and has done much towards 
popularising them. It produces very large, broad-petalled, cup- 

3 N 2 



9i6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



shaped flowers of a bright rosy-red. The habit of the plant is 
extremely vigorous : its large leaves are of a bronzy colour on 
the upper surface, and are deeply toothed at the margins. This 
magnificent Water Lily does not flower as freely as many kinds 
in the Lotus section, to which it belongs. 

Victoria regia (Royal Water Lily). — A monotypic genus 
befittingly dedicated to the illustrious lady whose name it 
bears. This handsome plant is one of the most interesting and 
wonderful productions of the Vegetable Kingdom, and is by far 
the largest and most remarkable Aquatic hitherto introduced. 
No plant has probably attracted so much public interest 
and admiration, or, when seen for the first time, created 
so much astonishment. The gigantic leaves of this queen 
of Water Lilies are peltate and nearly orbicular in shape, the 
largest measuring from 6ft. to 7 ft. in diameter, exclusive of 
the upturned margin, which is from 2 in. to 5 in. in depth, the 
whole presenting the appearance of a huge circular tray 
floating on the surface of the water. The under-side of the 
leaf is furnished with numerous large cellular ribs, extending in 
each direction from where the petiole joins and gradually 
diminishing in size as they approach the margin. These are 
connected by much smaller transverse ribs, forming a network 
of great sustaining power ; and all are beset with sharp prickles, 
varying in length, as does also the cylindrical petiole, which has 
the peculiarity of elongating rapidly as soon as the leaf has 
attained its full size, and thus providing space for the young 
leaves that follow. The leaves are smooth, of a deep shining 
green on the upper surface, and purplish on the under-side. 
The rapidity with which the plant grows and expands its 
prodigious leaves, when they first appear, curled up inwardly 
and bristling with prickles, somewhat suggest the appearance 
of a hedgehog, and is probably not equalled by any other 
subject in the Vegetable Kingdom. Notwithstanding their rapid 
growth, however, the leaves will keep in good condition for 
six or eight weeks after they have become fully developed. A 
strong, healthy plant, when it has reached the flowering stage, 
produces, as previously observed, a leaf and a flower, on an 
average, about every three days, and, as in the case of all other 
Water Lilies, the flowers are rather short-lived. Two days is the usual 
limit of their duration, this being one day less than in the case 
of Nymph^eas, so that it is a rare occurrence for a plant to 
have two flowers fully expanded at one time. On the first day 
the flower commences to open about four o'clock in the afternoon, 
and is fully expanded (excepting the central petals) in about an 
hour; it is pure white, measures from loin. to i4in. in diameter, 
and emits an agreeable and powerful odour. The flower keeps 
open all night, but the following morning it closes up for 
several hours, but expands for the second and last time about 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



917 



five o'clock in the afternoon ; the outer petals are then reflexed, 
and some of them are faintly tinged with pink, while the central 
ones (that were not exposed on the previous day) are disclosed, and 
are of a deep rosy-red. The peduncle and the ovary are densely 
covered with sharp prickles. This remarkable Aquatic first flowered 
in Europe, at Chatsworth, on November 8th and 9th, 1849, and 
five days later (November 14th) it is stated that the then Duke of 
Devonshire had a leaf and a flower conveyed to Queen Victoria, 
at Windsor. There are but few recognised varieties in cultiva- 
tion, and these differ principally in the colour of the flowers on 
the second day of opening, or in the depth of the upturned 
margin of the leaves. The first one on record was discovered 
and introduced from Brazil by Mr. Ed. S. Rand; he sent 
seeds of it to Mr. Sturtevant, of New Jersey, in whose establish- 
ment it first flowered under cultivation in 1886, and by whom 
it was distributed under the name of V. r. Randii. This has 
leaves of a dark bronzy-green, with the upturned margin of 
greater depth than in the type ; the colour of the flowers is also 
much deeper. Another well-marked form is known as Dixon's 
variety, and this originated with Abraham Dixon, Esq., Cherkley 
Court, Leatherhead, who has for many years taken a foremost 
place in the successful cultivation of Aquatics, and has formed 
a very complete collection of them. Dixon's variety is remarkable 
for the size of the leaves and the depth of the marginal rim, as 
well as for the deep, rich colouring of the flowers. Another 
form, recognised as Tricker's variety (which originated w^ith 
Mr. Tricker, of New Jersey, an enthusiastic specialist), has 
very distinguishing characters, and is a desirable variety 
The plant is very floriferous and of vigorous growth, with 
large leaves, of a bright green colour on the upper surface, 
and the marginal rim very deep. It is also remarkable in that 
the leaves on young plants assume the turned-up margin at a 
very early stage. It is interesting to note that these varieties 
retain their distinctive characters when raised from seed. 

EuRYALE FEROX is an interesting plant native of India and 
China, the genus being monotypic and closely allied to 
Victoria. The species is of annual duration, and, before the 
discovery and introduction of the Royal Water Lily, was 
distinguished as being the largest and most ornamental-leaved 
floating Aquatic in cultivation. Its large, handsome, peltate 
leaves are nearly orbicular in shape, dark green on the upper 
surface, and of a rich deep purple on the under-side ; they 
measure on strong-growing plants about 3ft. in diameter, and are 
furnished beneath w^ith numerous prominent cellular ribs. Unlike 
the Victoria, the margins of the leaves are rimless and distinctly 
bullate (puckered) on the upper surface, and are beset with sharp, 
curved spines on both surfaces. The flowers, which are exceedingly 
small in comparison with the size of the plant, are of a deep 



9i8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



purplish- violet, and are often expanded beneath the surface of 
the water, in which position they remain. It produces seeds 
freely, which are larger than those of the Victoria and oval in 
shape. When ripe, these should be kept until wanted for sowing 
in a jar of water at about 5odeg. Fahr., or they will quickly 
germinate. E. ferox is a vigorous plant, and can be successfully 
grown in a large pot or tub under similar cultural conditions 
to those recommended for the Vicfoj-ia ; and, of course, it can 
be accommodated in a much smaller space than the plant just 
referred to. 

The following is an alphabetical list of the most desirable 
tropical and tender Aquatic or moisture-loving plants for cultivating 
in a Lily tank. Excepting the Aponogetons, they flourish in a 
similar compost to that recommended for Water Lilies. 

Aponogeton fenestrale {Oiiviraiidra fenestralis^ Lace-leaf 
or Lattice-leaf Plant). — This rare and remarkably handsome 
species is singularly interesting on account of the skeletonised 
appearance of its elegant submerged leaves. They are oblong 
in shape, with a stout mid-rib, and parallel with this on each 
side are several slender nerves extending the entire length of 
the leaf; these are connected by numerous short cross-nerves, 
which impart to the leaf the pretty lace or lattice-work appearance, 
from which the plant derives its common name. Well-developed 
leaves are from i2in. to i8in. in length, and 4in. to 5in. in breadth, 
of a deep green, and more or less horizontally arranged just beneath 
the surface of the water. The twin-spiked scape which rises 
above the surface bears numerous closely-packed, small, whitish 
flowers. Another species in the genus — A. Ber?ie?'iaua {Ouvi?'- 
andra Ber7teria7ia) — has fenestrate leaves, and is equally as 
interesting as, and rarer than, the one just described, but not 
so handsome. The leaves are longer and much narrower, and 
the nerves are stouter and much closer together ; it therefore 
does not present the same delicate and beautiful appearance of 
the Lace-leaf plant. It also differs in having a four-spiked 
scape, with the pale rose-coloured flowers more sparsely arranged. 
The same cultural conditions as recommended for A. feiiest7-aie 
will meet the requirements of this species. 

Cabomba aquatica. — A small and interesting plant with sub- 
merged and floating leaves. The former are deeply divided, 
with the segments very finely cut on short petioles ; the latter 
are shield-shaped, entire, and the petioles much longer. The 
solitary yellow flowers are insignificant, and are arranged in the 
axils of the leaves. 

Ceratopteris thalictroides. — A monotypic genus, the species 
being an interesting Water-Fern with handsome much-divided 
fronds, the fertile ones taller and more erect-growing than the 
sterile ones. It is easily increased by spores, and also by 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



919 



proliferous buds formed on the sterile fronds which, if laid on 
wet soil, soon develop into plants. 

Cyperus alternifolius. — This well-known and handsome 
plant needs no describing. It is very accommodating, suiting 
itself to ordinary pot culture, and thriving equally well when 
treated as an Aquatic with its roots submerged in water, in which 
position it is strikingly effective. C. a. variegatus is equally 
as handsome and effective as the type, although a little less 
sturdy in its growth. C. natalensis is a very desirable and 
handsome plant, with tufts of numerous long, narrow, deep-green 
leaves gracefully disposed. Like C. alternifolius^ it is an excellent 
subject for ordinary pot culture, and thrives equally well with its 
roots submerged in water. Height 2ft. to 3ft. C. Papyrus 
{^Papyrus antiquortim, Egyptian Paper Reed) is a particularly 
ornamental plant, having erect, long, triangular stems, surmounted 
with umbels of pendent thread-like leaves, which present a 
graceful and very effective appearance. It is of vigorous 
growth, and although 
usually treated as an 
Aquatic, it may be 
successfully grown in 
a pot placed in a pan 
of water. This species 
is also historically in- 
teresting from the fact 
that it was the plant 
which yielded the 
Papyrus of the ancient 
Egyptians. Height 
8ft. to I oft. 

ElCHHORNIA AZUREA 

{Pontederia aziirea, 
Blue Water- Hyacinth) 
(Fig. 608). — This is 
a very desirable 
Aquatic, with stout, 
erect - growing scapes, 
bearing numerous 
clear lavender - blue, 
funnel-shaped flowers ; 
the upper and larger 
segments are marked 
in the centre with a 
yellow heart - shaped 
blotch, margined with white, 
deeply toothed, which imparts 
fringed appearance. It is a very 




Fig. 608. — ElCHHORNIA azurea. 



and the three inner ones are 
to the flowers a pretty delicately- 



free-flowering 



and 



vigorous- 



920 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



growing plant, with long, thick, floating stems, and at each 
joint roots are emitted. The shining green leaves are borne 
erect on short, stout petioles, and are very variable in size 
and shape. To prevent this plant from encroaching on other 
things, it will be necessary to occasionally shorten back the 
stems, replanting the young growths. As it roots freely, this 
operation affects the plant but little, either in growth or in 
flowering, as the scapes are produced from the axils of the leaves 
towards the extremity of the stem. E. Martiana {E. tricolor) 
is an erect-growing, handsome, free-flowering plant of annual 
duration. It is of moderate growth, with cordate, sharply-pointed. 



shining 



green 



leaves, on long petioles. 



The flowers, which are 
arranged on a com- 
pound spike, are about 

1 in. in diameter, the 
three lower segments 
being of a purplish 
colour, and the three 
upper ones deep blue, 
having a tw^o - lobed 
yellowish blotch in the 
centre, margined w^ith 
white. Height about 

2 ft. E. speciosa {E. cras- 
sipes, Water - Hyacinth) 
(Fig. 609) is a hand- 
some, curious, and in- 
teresting plant. Unlike 
the other species, when 
under cultivation the 
flowers are seldom pro- 
duced, but, nevertheless, 
they are equally as 
beautiful ; these are 
large, of a pretty, soft 
rosy-lilac, the upper and 
largest segments being 
suffused in the centre 
with rosy-purple, with 
linear markings of 
violet, displaying a con- 
spicuous oval-shaped blotch of pale chrome-yellow. It increases 
rapidly, and is very variable in its habit of growth. When treated 
strictly as a floating Aquatic, the petioles are short and very 
much inflated ; but when the roots are in soil this inflation 
diminishes, the petioles assuming an almost cylindrical shape and 
growing to a much greater length. The shining, deep-green 
leaves are also very variable, both in size and in shape. In order 




Fig. 609. — ElCHHORNIA speciosa. 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



921 



to succeed in flowering this species under artificial treatment, 
the plants should be allowed to become crowded and the roots 
well matted together. They should be located in the sunniest 
position in shallow water with a little soil for them to root in, 
and the offsets (which are freely produced) should be removed 
as soon as they appear. This pretty plant has been introduced 
from its native habitat (South America) to some of the water- 
courses in the United States, and in the St. John's River, Florida, 
it has increased to such an extent as to become a serious 
obstruction to navigation. 

Herpestis Monnieria is a small but dense-growing plant of 
prostrate habit. The small, solitary, bluish flowers are freely 
produced, and are arranged in the axils of the leaves. It is a 
very serviceable subject for covering the bare surface of wet soil 
in which tall, erect-growing plants are situated. 



Hydrocleys COiMMERSONi {^Limnocliaris Humboldtii^ 
Poppy), is a very desirable and handsome Aquatic, with 
pale, yellow flowers, deepening in 
tone of colour towards the base 
of the petals ; the numerous 
stamens are purplish, which add 
to the beauty of the flowers. 
They are very fugacious, but 
the freedom with which they are 
produced amply atones for that 
deficiency. It is a free-growing 
plant of neat habit, with floating, 
roundish ovate-shaped leaves, the 
mid-rib of which is very prominent 
on the under-side. 



Water- 
large, 



Hydrolea spinosa (Fig. 610) 
is an erect-growing, free-flowering 
plant, producing corymbose 
panicles of rich, clear, blue 
flowers. It is of easy culture and 
compact in habit. Seeds so\vn 
in the early spring will produce 
flowering plants late m the 
season. Height ift. to 2ft. 

Jussieua repens grandiflora 
has shortly- stalked five-petalled 
flowers of a rich deep yellow. 
The plant is of vigorous growth, 

with long, prostrate floating stems, from the joints of which 
erect-growing, flowering shoots are produced, and also tufts of 
short, fibrous roots. 




Fig. 610. — Hydrolea spinosa. 



922 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



LiMNANTHEMUM iNDicuM (Water-Siiowflake) is a handsome 
little Aquatic, with floating heart-shaped leaves, which somewhat 
resemble those of a miniature Water Lily. The elegant little 
flowers are produced from the slender stems near the base of 
the leaves, and are pure white, the upper surface of the corolla 
being prettily fringed. It is a free-flowering and attractive little 
plant of slender growth, and requires a situation in shallow 
water. 

LiMNOBiUM BOGOTENSE {Tf'taftea bogotensis) is a compact- 
growing little floating plant with oblong or orbicular deep-green, 
shining leaves about lin. in diameter, borne on short 
petioles, and arranged in the shape of a rosette. It freely 
produces short stolons from the base, and at the ends of these 
other plants are produced. The flowers are insignificant. 

LiMNOCHARis EMARGiNATA (Z. Pliimieri) is an erect-growing 
plant with pale yellow flowers borne in umbels on stout, three- 
sided scapes. The ovate leaves are quite entire, very distinctly 
veined, and of a pale green ; the petioles are long and triangular 
in shape. Height ift. to 2ft. 

Myriophyllum proserpinacoides (Parrot's Feather) is a very 
graceful plant of a pleasing shade of green. It has long slender 
stems, densely covered with very finely-cut leaves, which impart 
a pretty feathery appearance. The insignificant flowers are hidden 
in the axils of the leaves. It is a free-growing subject, and is 
very useful for covering unsightly mounds of wet soil in which 
erect-growing plants are situated ; it thrives equally as well in 
this position as when the stems are growing on the surface of the 
water. 

Nelumbium luteum (Fig. 611). — This American species is a 
very handsome Aquatic, with pale yellow flowers, but is not so 
vigorous a grower or so floriferous under cultivation as the better 
known Indian species N. speciosuin^ which in its other charac- 
teristics it closely resembles. In favourable situations outside during 
hot summers it would probably thrive better than when cultivated 
under glass, and would produce more freely its large handsome, 
flowers. Height 4ft. to 5 ft. N. speciosum (iV. nuciferiim, Sacred 
Bean of India, and by some authorities reputed to be the true 
Lotus of the Ancient Egyptians), although not now found 
growing wild in Egypt, is commonly met with in many parts 
of the East Indies and tropical Asia, where it is, with its 
several varieties, held in high estimation. It is without doubt 
the most interesting and beautiful of all tall-growing cultivated 
Aquatics. Apart from the massive soft rosy -pink flowers which 
are freely produced, the circular, peltate, glaucous leaves are 
exceedingly handsome ; their upper surface is densely covered 
with a microscopic down which renders them impervious to 
water, the latter when dropped upon them rolling off" in globules 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 



like quicksilver. Height 4ft. to 6ft. The genus Nelumbium 
embraces only two species, but specific names have been given 
to several varieties of N. speciostwi, the only distinction being 
in the colour of their 
flowers, which range 
from white and pale 
rose to deep rosy- 
pink, and in some 
instances there are a 
greater number of 
petals which impart 
a semi-double appear- 
ance. 

Neptunia plena 
(Water Sensitive 
Plant) is a curiously 
interesting subject 
with long, spongy, 
floating stems, bearing 
bi-pinnate leaves con- 
sisting of numerous 
small leaflets of a pale- 
green colour, which 
are irritable, as in 
those of the well- 
known Sensitive Plant, 
Mimosa pudica. The 
flowers are small, pale 
yellow, and arranged 
in globular heads on 
rather long peduncles, 
which are produced 
from the axils of the 
leaves. 




Fig. 611. — Nelumbium luteum. 



Ottellv ovalifoll\ is a compact and interesting Aquatic, 
with oblong-ovate leaves, some of which are submerged,- others 
floating on longer petioles. The flowers are borne above the 
surface of the water in a solitary spathe, the three large inner 
segments b'eing of a pale yellow colour. 

Philydrum lanuginosum. — A monotypic genus, the species 
being perhaps more interesting than beautiful. It is of biennial 
duration and of erect habit of growth, its lanceolate leaves 
being densely covered with woolly hair. The flowers are clear 
yellow, and are borne on long spikes. Height 2ft. to 3ft. 

PiSTLA. stratiotes (Water Lettuce). — A monotypic genus of 
the Aroid family. The species is a very handsome floating 



924 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Aquatic, with tufts of soft, delicate, pale-green leaves, which are 
joined together at the base in the shape of a rosette. The 
flowers are insignificant, and are borne in little rosettes at the 
base of the leaves. This plant should be afforded slight 
shade from direct sunlight, or it will assume an unhealthy 
appearance. It increases freely by offsets, and where it thrives 
will soon outgrow its allotted space. 

T Sagittaria lanci folia is an erect-growing Aquatic, with pure 
white flowers arranged in whorls on tall scapes. The plant is 




Fig. 6i2. — Sagittaria montevidensis. 



of vigorous habit, with lanceolate-ovate leaves borne on long 
petioles. Height 3ft. to 4ft. S. 1. angustifolia has the leaves much 
narrower and less distinctly ribbed, and is smaller in all its parts 
than the type. 6". montevidensis (Monte Video Arrow-head) (Fig. 
612) is by far the handsomest species of the genus yet introduced, 



ON AQUATIC PLANTS. 925 

and is also one of the prettiest and most desirable of erect-growing 
Aquatics. It is of vigorous growth, with large sagittate leaves borne 
on stout petioles 3ft. to 4ft. in length. The flowers are large, 
arranged in loose whorls on tall stout scapes, and are pure 
white, with the exception of a maroon blotch margined with 
pale yellow, situated at the base of the three inner perianth- 
segments. It is very floriferous, and thrives well in pots just 
submerged, but grows more robustly when planted out in beds, 
and presents a very striking effect when situated in the back- 
ground of a tank. Height about 4ft. 

Salvinia natans is a charming little Fern-like floatmg 
Aquatic, of a delicate pale green colour, and of annual duration. 
It reproduces itself from spores, which are freely produced on 
the under-surface of the plant, and which are easily discernible, 
in the autumn. Before the so-called sporocarps are quite ripe, 
or in a condition to burst, the plants should be removed from the 
tank and put into a pan containing a depth of about 3in. of 
finely-sifted loam and filled up with water ; the plants will die 
off, but the spores will sink and remain in the soil until they 
commence to germinate early the following spring. The pan, 
which must be kept filled with water, should during the winter 
months be placed in a temperature of about 6odeg., removing 
to a higher temperature when the spores show signs of ger- 
minating. When the plants are large enough, they should be 
transferred to their permanent quarters for the season. 

Thalia dealbata is an elegant erect-growing Aquatic of 
vigorous habit, with cordate-ovate leaves on long petioles. The 
plant is covered with a mealy powder of a whitish colour, which 
gives it a pretty glaucous appearance. The long-stalked panicles 
which it freely produces bear numerous small purplish-coloured 
flowers. It is a very desirable subject to plant in the back- 
ground of a tank, where it presents a very bold effect. Height 
about 5 ft. 

In addition to the aquatic plants enumerated in the fore- 
going list there are numerous others that delight in hot, moist 
situations during their growling season, and that might be 
included where space permits of doing so. It will suffice, how- 
ever, to mention some of the most important of them considered 
as to their graceful growth, or their bold effect when introduced 
with judgment amongst the plants that constitute the chief 
attraction in a well-arranged Lily-house. Amongst the most 
deserving of notice, with bold foliage and handsome flowers, are 
the Cannas and Hedychiums. The former embrace many kinds, 
from which a good selection can be made ; and of the latter 
the best for the purpose are H. coronarium^ H. Gard?ierianu7/i, 
and If. flavum ; these respectively produce large spikes of white, 
lemon-yellow, or orange-yellow sweetly-scented flowers. The 



926 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Musas, too — M. Cavendishii and M. enseie more particularly — 
although requiring considerable space, are amongst the most 
effective subjects that can be associated with such ornamental 
foliaged plants as Colocasia antiquoriim^ C. escuknta, C. odorata 
(Fig. 613), Pandanus Veitchii, Aipinia nutans, A. vittata, Xantho- 
sonia Lindenii, X. violaceum, Dieffenbachia Bausei, D. cheIsom\ 
D. magnifica, Caladhim bicolor, C- Cha7itinii, and many of the 
familiar brilliant-coloured hybrid forms. These should not be 
omitted from a supplementary list when necessary to enhance 
by their inclusion the general effect of a collection of tropical 
Aquatics. They may be depended upon for the purpose for 
which they are here recommended, and with the Aquatics would 
form a permanent source of much interest and pleasure. 




Fig. 613.— Colocasia odorata. 



By 

Trevor Monmouth. 

In all gardens of any extent the early forcing of vegetables, salads, 
bulbs, and flowering plants is conducted on a more or less exten- 
sive scale, according to the family's requirements, and without the 
means of thus producing the above the supply of choice tender 
vegetables, salads, and beautiful flowers would be much curtailed. 

Vegetables. 

Taking vegetables first, as being the most indispensable and 
useful articles, particularly during and following hard winters, 
when all kinds are scarce, it would be difficult to imagine what 
the gardener would do without some, or all, of the sorts now so 
largely forced, and which can be thus artificially obtained with 
certainty at a comparatively small outlay, providing a few frames 
and a dark, warm place like a Mushroom-house are available. 

Asparagus. — This highly-esteemed vegetable is best forced in 
heated brick frames, having a slight hot-bed of manure, with hot- 
water pipes near the lights. On the manure a light layer of 
sandy soil should be placed, and on this the x\sparagus plants, 
which should be at least three years old, should be placed thickly, 
taking care that the roots have not become dry through exposure. 
On the top of the plants another layer of light sandy soil to 
the depth of 3in. or 4in. should be placed, and a thoroughly 



2 1 —On 

Forcing. 



928 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



good watering given. A temperature of 55deg. to 6odeg. will 
be high enough, and beyond seeing that air is admitted if the 
temperature runs up too high, and careful watering, little further 
attention is necessary. As the plants become exhausted they 
should be thrown away, being no good afterwards. Unless 
Asparagus is required very early, January will be soon enough 
to commence forcing. 

Carrots. — At all times of the year small and tender Carrots 
are much appreciated on the table, and gardeners in general 
strive to meet requirements by forcing them as early as possible. 
By means of hot-beds made up in frames heated by hot water 
young Carrots may be had at almost any time during the 
winter. Unfortunately heated frames of that description are 
seldom available, except in very large gardens ; in smaller 
establishments the best use must be made of cold frames 
placed on hot-beds made up of strawy manure, leaves, &c. 
In such cases the hot-bed should be made up early in January ; 
it should be at least 3ft. deep, and should project about ift. 
outside the frame all round. Take care to tread the hot-bed 
thoroughly firm during the process of making up, or the heat 
will soon become exhausted. It need scarcely be stated that 
when the frame is put on the bed, it should face the south as 
far as possible, to catch all the sun-heat. When the frame has 
been placed on the hot-bed, a layer of fine sandy soil to a 
depth of about 6in. should be spread evenly over the whole of 
the inside surface (old potting soil that has been screened 
through a Jin. sieve is excellent). On this the Carrot seed may 
be sown broadcast thinly, and if the frame is kept close, only 
giving a little ventilation to allow any rank steam to escape, 
the seed will germinate in a few days. From this time onwards 
more air should be admitted, the grower being guided as to how 
much or how little by external influences. Overcrowding of the 
plants must be avoided, otherwise they would choke each other. 
If thinned out to about 2in. apart, the Carrots may be drawn 
immediately they are large enough, and those remaining will be 
able to develop into bigger ones. Towards the end of January, 
another bed may be made up, which will keep up a supply 
until those sown on a warm border outside are ready. With 
frames heated by hot water, a sowing could be made monthly 
from the end of September onwards, and a supply regularly 
maintained with certainty in spite of bad climatic conditions. 
For sowing in frames, the French Horn varieties are much the 
best, being very reliable and quickly coming into use. 

Celery. — When Celery is wanted for exhibition very early, 
the seed of white varieties is sown in heat in January, 
and when the seedlings are large enough to handle, they are 
pricked out into boxes of rich soil. When about 4in. or 5in. 



ON FORCING. 



high they are planted out in frames on a gentle hot-bed, 9in. to 
i2in. apart. In this frame they grow to their full size, and as the 
plants become large enough they are blanched by means of bands 
of stout brown paper tied round them. When wanted, the Celery 
is beautifully white and clean, Sutton's Solid White has proved 
a splendid variety for this early forcing. 

French Beans. — Few vegetables are so easily forced, or can 
be grown for a longer period in succession, than the Dwarf or 
French Beans ; in fact, with a nice light hot-house and plenty of 
heat, there is no difficulty in having tender Beans from the time 
when the outdoor supply fails until it commences again. The 
first sowing may be made in g'm. or loin. pots about the middle 
of August. Place a crock or inverted oyster-shell over the 
drainage hole, and some of the roughest of the soil over this, 
then half fill the pots with a compost of three parts good fibrous 
loam and one part well-decayed manure. In this insert about 
seven Beans at equal distances, and if all germinate reduce the 
number of plants to five, as if all were left they would become 
overcrowded, and the crop would consequently be light. . A 
temperature of 55deg. to 65deg., or a little more by sun heat, 
will suit the plants admirably, provided they are kept close to 
the glass to get all the light possible. Also maintain plenty 
of atmospheric moisture, and syringe the growing plants freely 
on both sides of the foliage ; unless this is carried out Red 
Spider is practically sure to attack the plants, and reduce their 
energy and crop. Watering must have the most careful attention; 
avoid any extremes of drought or wetness at the roots. Imme- 
diately the plants show signs of blossom forming the pots should 
be filled up to within lin. of the top with a compost of half 
fibrous loam and half well-decayed manure thoroughly mixed ; 
this will feed the plants and cause them to crop heavily, par- 
ticularly if the Beans are gathered d.rectly they are large enough 
for use, and the plants are occasionally given diluted liquid 
manure (or loz. of nitrate of soda dissolved in 3gals. of water, 
and applied weekly). By sowing at intervals of three weeks from 
the middle of August to the end of March, and giving the 
cultural details proper attention, a continuous supply of 
Beans will be produced through all the winter and spring months. 
Excellent varieties for this early and late forcing are Sir Joseph 
Paxton, Improved Mohawk, and Osborn's Forcing. 

Mushrooms." — See the Chapter "On Vegetable Culture." 

P.EAS. — Occasionally Peas are forced to provide a few dishes 
in April or May, or before the ordinary supply grown outside 
is ready ; but unless particularly wanted for some special 
purpose, the trouble and expense incurred in growing them 
under glass are not repaid by results. To get very early crops 
under glass the Peas should be sown at the beginning of January, 
or even earlier if they are wanted at the beginning of April, 

3 o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



sowing the seeds thinly in large pots or boxes that are well- 
drained, and filled with a compost of three parts good fibrous 
loam and one part leaf- mould or well-decayed manure. As 
the seedlings germinate they should be kept close to the glass, 
to prevent their becoming drawn and to induce a sturdy habit. 
A temperature of 45deg. to 55deg. should be maintained, and 
air be admitted on all favourable occasions. As the plants 
advance in growth they should be supported with short, twiggy 
shoots, and be given diluted liquid manure about once a week, 
taking care not to over-feed. The dwarf-growing varieties are 
the most suitable for growing in pots or boxes — Chelsea Gem, 
Improved Gem, William Hurst, American Wonder, and other 
dwarf sorts are excellent. Outside crops are forwarded con- 
siderably by sowing seeds of early varieties on turves or in 
boxes in February in heat. These are gradually hardened off 
in cold frames, and then planted out on a warm border and 
staked at once, as the stakes afford a certain amount of 
protection, not only from the weather, but also from birds. 

Potatoes. — Although Potatoes are sometimes forced early 
in pots, they are seldom worth the trouble unless a few 
very early dishes are required. The more usual methoei 
is to make up a gentle hot-bed in frames, round which a 
flow-and-return hot-water pipe runs. On the top of the litter 
or manure forming the hot-bed is placed a layer of fine 
sandy soil, in which plenty of leaf-mould has been incor- 
porated, the layer being about 6in. deep. In this the 
Potato "sets," or tubers, are planted in lines about i5in. apart 
between the rows, and 9in. apart in the rows, an early variety 
that produces a short top being selected for the purpose. A 
good watering is given if the soil is at all dry, and a temperature 
of about 55deg. maintained. Whenever the weather is favourable 
air is admitted, the object being to get strong, sturdy plants in 
robust health. Some growers add a little compost to the plants, 
in fact, earth them up slightly ; but, after trying earthing and 
non-earthing, we found absolutely no difference in the size of the 
tubers or weight of the crop. Care in watering is necessary to 
prevent undue dryness or moisture at the roots, the grower, as 
far as possible, striving for the happy medium. When the tops 
begin to lose their greenness, it indicates that the crop is 
maturing, and more air and less moisture are desirable to improve 
the flavour of the Potatoes. If the first beds are made up and 
planted early in January, and at intervals afterwards according to 
requirements, a supply for special occasions may be relied upon 
from the end of February onwards. The following varieties are 
all white, short in the haulm, and have proved valuable for 
forcing purposes : Harbinger, New Early Frame, Early Short-Top, 
Early Bird, and the old Early Ashleaf. There is little to choose 
between these five varieties for size of tuber and weight of crop, 



ON FORCING. 



but the first-named is the best in quality, being wonderfully 
mealy when cooked as compared with most kinds of forced 
Potatoes. 

Rhubarb. — Although this must be classed as a vegetable, it 
is always used as a fruit. Sometimes amateurs and others find 
a little difficulty in getting the plants to start into growth when 
put in heat to force ; but if the crowns are taken up at the end 
of October or early in November in good clumps with a good 
ball of soil attached, placed in a cool shed for a week or so, 
and then transferred into a mushroom-house or under the stages 
of a warm greenhouse, the roots being covered with ordinary 
garden soil, they will quickly commence growing, and throw up 
a plentiful supply of leaf-stalks. Strong clumps that have been 
about two or three years undisturbed should be selected. Very 
old and massive clumps are not so desirable, as they have formed 
big far-reaching roots that will not lift with a good ball of soil. 
At the same time, these strong and old-established plants are 
first rate for forcing where they stand, by means of barrels with 
the ends knocked out, with a cover placed over the top, and the 
whole covered with litter or strawy manure, as mentioned for 
Seakale, If the barrels and manure are removed about the 
middle of April late growth will be made, and the plants will 
be scarcely, if at, all, weakened by the forcing ; in fact, we have 
thus forced old plants for eight years consecutively without any 
signs of exhaustion, 

Seakale. — Where ground is limited, as it frequently is in 
towns, it is much the cheaper plan to purchase crowns of this 
popular and very useful vegetable for forcing. Strong crowns 
are usually advertised in most of the horticultural papers from 
November to March, or later ; these may be purchased in quan- 
tity at a moderate cost per hundred crowns, and all that are 
not required for immediate forcing can be laid their full length 
in the soil outside, with only the tips of the crowns out, until 
wanted for successional supplies. In the country, where plenty 
of land is available, strong crowns can be grown more cheaply 
than they can be purchased ; and if these are lifted in November, 
and laid in soil as above described until wanted for forcing, 
successional batches can be put in the mushroom- house to force 
even during severe frosts. The mode of operation is to place a 
quantity of crowns in a mushroom-house, or other warm structure 
from which light can be excluded, and with a temperature ranging 
from 55deg. to 6odeg. The roots, or crowns (as they are usually 
termed by gardeners), are laid in fairly good sandy soil their full 
length, the crowns being just above the surface and about 6in. 
apart. Not much water is required by the roots, but care must 
be taken that they do not suffer for want of water, otherwise 
the growth will be tough and stringy. A nice moist growing 

302 



932 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



atmosphere should also be maintained ; in fact, the conditions 
as to heat and moisture requisite for Mushrooms will suit the 
Seakale admirably. If the first batch of crowns is put in 
heat early in November, and afterwards at intervals of three 
weeks up to the end of March, a constant supply of this 
delicious vegetable will be produced from Christmas to the 
middle of April. 

Where there are no means of forcing Seakale in heated 
structures, very fine heads of beautifully white and tender growth 
may be obtained by means of Seakale pans or inverted boxes 
with movable tops to allow of examining the plants. These 
boxes or pans are placed over the roots as they stand on the 
ground, and the space between filled up with strawy manure to 
the depth of 4(1. or so, treading the same fairly firm, and well 
covering the boxes or pans at the same time with the manure. 
In a few days a strong heat will be generated thai will quickly 
force the crowns into growth. When inspecting the boxes or 
pans to see if the Seakale is ready for use, special care should 
be taken to cover them up again properly, or the heat will escape 
and be much later in affecting the Seakale's growth. The end of 
January will be quite early enough to attempt this outside forcing, 
and then the grower should avoid putting on the pans and 
manure if the ground is frozen, as this makes a difference of at 
least a fortnight in the Seakale becoming ready for use. After 
the cutting is completed, all the strawy manure should be removed, 
and the boxes, &c., stored away for future use ; the roots will 
then make fresh growth that will be strong enough to force 
again in two years without disturbance. 

Salads. 

The value of a daily supply of fresh salad all through the 
winter months is well known, and with proper structures there 
is not much difficulty in ensuring this. With a warm mushroom- 
house or similar place, Endive, Chicory, Dandelion, &c., can 
be forced in successional quantities equal to requirements, and 
with the aid of Mustard and Cress sown in boxes in a warm 
greenhouse or forcing-pits, and Radishes sown on hot-beds, a very 
acceptable variety in the salad-bowl may be secured. A very good 
practice is to sow Radishes, and occasionally Lettuce, on the 
hot-beds made for forcing Potatoes ; if the Radish seed is sown 
immediately the Potatoes are planted they will form nice little 
"bulbs" before the Potatoes get much top, especially if the 
olive-shaped or turnip-rooted sorts are selected, as these 
types of Radish are earlier in maturing than the long-rooted 
varieties. If Lettuce is sown on hot-beds of in boxes to get 
an early supply, that little kind known as Early Paris Market is 
one of the best, being a small, compact, Cabbage variety, 
quickly developing into a useful size for use. Immediately the 



ON FORCING. 



933 



little plants attain a fair size they should be planted out, about 
4in. apart, in rich soil in a warm frame, and in a very short 
time nice little crisp Lettuce will be ready for cutting. 

Herbs. 

In many establishments Mint and other herbs must be forth- 
coming when needed. For this purpose young and vigorous 
plants should be put in pots or boxes of good soil some time 
prior to their being placed in heat. A moderate temperature — 
about 55deg. or 6odeg. — is most suitable. If much more heat 
is given the grovv^th is weak and attenuated, and not so service- 
able as that produced more gradually. If proper attention is 
paid to watering and other details, it is marvellous what a 
quantity of growth a few pots of herbs will produce. 

Ornamental Plants. 

With the present great wealth of bulbs and other plants now 
available for forcing, the difficulty of supplying flowers for the 
decoration of rooms, conservatories, &c., is much less than it 
was in our forefathers' days. Not only have we a much larger 
choice of subjects, differing in colour, form, and beauty, but we 
have also much better appliances for forcing plants into flower at 
all seasons. When the Lily of the Valley was made to flower in 
the early autumn a few years ago, gardeners were for some time 
at a loss to understand how it was accomplished ; but now by 
means of retarding chambers these charming blossoms are 
procurable all the year round. The hastening or retarding of 
the flowering period is practised with many other plants, greatly 
to the benefit of the gardener and market-grower, who are thus 
able to produce almost any flower that can be forced at a season 
when it is most desirable that it should be in evidence. 

. Bulbs are indispensable for forcing, and are so numerous in 
kinds, that a fair-sized volume could be written on their culture; 
but it will be sufficient here to deal with those mostly employed 
for furnishing flowers out of season. In the majority of gardens 
the well-known Roman Hyacinth is the first bulbous plant to 
commence forcing, and it is usually in blossom from November 
onwards through the winter months. But it will possibly be 
advisable to warn purchasers against buying very early importations 
of these bulbs, which, being lifted before they are properly 
matured, are always more or less unsatisfactory in flowering. 
The end of September or early in October is quite early enough 
to commence potting Roman Hyacinths, and if properly treated 
they win give a full quota of flowers. All Hyacinths and 
Tulips answer to the same treatment, and their culture is briefly 
as follows : 

In the first place perfect drainage is essential, and it should 
be covered with moss or similar material to prevent it from 



934 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



becoming clogged with soil. A suitable compost is three parts 
good fibrous loam and one part decayed manure or leaf-mould, 
with a little chemical manure added (not exceeding a 5in. pot 
full to each barrow-load of compost — very often these concentrated 
manures are condemned through their having been applied in 
excess). The soil should be made moderately firm, and in the 
case of Roman Hyacinths and Tulips five bulbs may be placed 
at equal distances in 5 in. or 6in. pots, just leaving the crown or 
apex above the soil. With the ordinary Hyacinths, one bulb in 
the size of pots named will be ample, placing it in the 
centre of the pot, with its top projecting a little through the 
soil. After potting is completed, a thoroughly good watering 
should be given, and the pots of both Hyacinths and Tulips 
plunged to the depth of 2in. or 3in. overhead in sifted 
coal-ashes in cold frames : this will keep the soil uniformly 
moist, prevent damage by frost, and encourage the formation 
of roots, followed by strong, sturdy growth and fine 
flowers when put in the forcing - house or pit. If potted 
and forced at once the results are not so good, and some- 
times the flower-spike refuses to rise above the foliage, or is 
deformed. Another advantage is that when plunged in frames 
a batch can at all times be taken out and put in heat as 
required to afford a succession of flowers. Where large quantities 
of white flowers are necessary during the winter, a quantity of 
Roman Hyacinths should be placed in boxes containing a depth 
of soil of about 4in. or 5in., and in a moist, warm atmosphere 
a considerable quantity of flowers will be produced for cutting 
purposes. The same remarks also apply to the Paper A\'hite 
Narcissi, which force admirably in pots or boxes, and are very 
useful indeed for embellishment from November onwards. 
Some of the larger-flowered types of Narcissi are likewise valuable 
for forcing, but these will not stand much fire-heat, and must 
be brought on gradually, for if hurried they will fail, more 
particularly in mid-winter. After blossoming, the plants may be 
gradually hardened off and planted out in the wild garden or 
nursery. 

The gorgeous Hippeastrums (erroneously called Amaryllis) 
force splendidly, and enjoy plenty of heat and moisture. By 
having successional supplies of bulbs to put in heat a quantity 
of brilUant flowers may be had for many weeks. Again, many 
of the Cape bulbs are charming, and flower most profusely with 
gentle forcing. Last, but by no means least, amongst bulbous 
plants should be included Gladioli of the Colvillei type, and the 
glorious Liliums, all of which force more or less readily, 
Z. Harrisii being a special favourite. A compost of half fibrous 
loam and half good peat, with sufficient sand to ensure porosity, 
will grow these plants well ; and if placed in a light position 
and carefully watered they will flower freely. 



ON FORCING. 



935 



Although the Lily of the Valley can scarcely be termed a 
bulbous plant, it is so well known and highly appreciated that 
it is practically indispensable. To have this flower first-rate it 
is essential that vigorous crowns be selected, and for that reason 
a bed or portion of a bed of these plants should be taken 
up every autumn or winter, all the finest crowns selected and 
laid in soil until wanted, or, better still, potted or put in 
boxes at once, and all the smaller crowns replanted in rich 
soil about 3in. or 4in. apart in a sunny position. In two 
years a splendid lot of crowns will be ready for forcing. The 
large crowns, if potted or boxed as suggested, may remain 
outside until the middle of November, when the first batch 
should be placed in heat, covering the crowns with inverted 
pots or boxes to exclude light ; this will cause them to throw 
up both foliage and flowers more freely. When the new 
growth is 2in. or 3in. high, light should be gradually admitted, 
until finally the covers are removed altogether. If successional 
quantities of plants are placed in heat at weekly or fortnightly 
intervals a fine lot of their deliciously-scented, flowers will be 
obtained from Christmas onwards. After flowering it is seldom 
worth keeping the plants, unless stock is wanted very badly : 
if not, they should be thrown away. 

Herbaceous Plants. 

Many of the ordinary occupants of our borders force admirably 
and afford a welcome and charming addition to bulbs and other 
plants. As a case in point, we may mention the valuable Spircsa 
mpojiica, with its white feathery flowers and handsome foliage, 
rendering it not only one of the best for cutting, but also 
admirable for room or conservatory embellishment. This plant 
should be potted for early supplies in October, and again later 
to meet all demands. Unlike many other plants, it will stand 
hard forcing from the first — i.e., the plants may be placed in 
strong heat at once with a certainty of success, and if gradually 
hardened oft", and planted out again in rich soil, they will in 
two years form strong clumps ready for forcing again. Plenty of 
heat and moisture are essential to all this class of Spiraeas, but 
other varieties will not force so easily or with such a certainty 
of success as the one named. Solomon's Seal, again, is valuable 
for large rooms, corridors, conservatories, &c., and forces readily, 
and the same remark applies to Dicentra (Dielytra), with its 
graceful racemes of pretty flowers. 

The Ten-week Stocks are annuals, but they are very useful for 
supplying flowers in wmter, especially the pure white variety, 
named Princess Alice. Carnations, too, are lovely winter- 
flowering plants ; varieties like Winter Cheer, Uriah Pike, JMiss 
Joliffe, and the Malmaisons are all first-rate, and may be had in 
flower all through the season by commencing with Winter Cheer, 



936 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and folloAving on with the other sorts mentioned. The Hellebores 
are so well known for Christmas and New Year flowers as 
scarcely to need mention, and even the Gaillardias, Pyrethrums, 
Campanulas, and many other hardy plants can be forced into 
blossom earlier than their usual season, thus affording a 
considerable variation. 

Of late years the Sweet Pea has greatly advanced in popular 
estimation as a plant for forcing, and very sweet and acceptable 
are the pure and delicate flowers when thus grown under glass. 
The seed may be sown in good soil, well drained, in either pots 
or boxes — the former for choice — early in January, and placed 
in moderate heat. When germination has taken place, care 
must be exercised that the plants are kept close to the glass in 
a temperature averaging from 5odeg. to 55deg., and ventilation 
given whenever the weather is favourable, the object being to 
keep the plants dwarf, sturdy, and floriferous. 

No list, however small, of winter-blossoming plants would be 
complete without the modest but popular Violet. In the 
neighbourhood of large towns it is only waste of time and labour 
to attempt its culture, as it absolutely refuses to flower ; but in 
country places, where the atmosphere is not choked with impurities, 
it may be had in blossom all through the winter. The plan we 
have always found the most reliable is to take off all the young 
and vigorous runners as early as they can be obtained, and to 
put them in a dung frame, with good loamy soil over the 
manure, the plants not being more than Sin. from the glass 
when the lights are put on. This is usually done in July or early 
in August, the plants being well watered when put in, and 
encouraged to grow freely by syringing every evening after a hot 
day. Unless this is done. Red Spider is apt to prove very trouble- 
some. The lights are not put on until there is danger of frost, 
and if any runners appear on the plants (which are about 6in. 
apart for small-leaved varieties like the Neapolitan, and 2in. more 
for sorts like The Czar), they are promptly pinched off, as they 
would only weaken the energies and reduce the quantity of 
flowers. All coddling or closeness of atmosphere in the frames 
should be avoided. Except in frosty or very cold weather a 
little ventilation is best left on the frames day and night, and in 
the middle of bright, warm days it is an advantage to remove 
the lights altogether for an hour or two. 

Trees and 5hrubs. 

The number of hard-wooded plants that will force well are so 
numerous that it would be difficult to say how many w^ill lend 
themselves to this purpose ; consequently only a few of the 
principal kinds, running into many varieties, can be mentioned. 
The Azalea merits the premier place, as all the indica section 
force freely and give such a wealth of beautiful flowers, 



ON FORCING. 



937 



varying in colour from the purest white to deep crimson, so 
that any particular taste as to colour or as to double or single 
flowers may be gratified. If a few plants are introduced into the 
forcing-house from early in November onwards at intervals of 
ten days or so, and due attention is paid to watering, insect pests, 
&:c., every flower-truss will open out freely and impart a beautiful 
effect during the dullest months of the year. The varieties are so 
numerous that it is best to refer the reader to the catalogues 
of nurserymen making plants for forcing a speciality. If the seed- 
pods are all carefully removed immediately after the flowers are 
past, and the plants are kept in a growing temperature, little or 
no exhaustion takes place, and they may be forced annually for 
many years. The Ghent and pontica types of Azaleas are also of 
immense value for forcing, giving a mass of orange-coloured 
flowers w^ith a minimum of trouble : and as these plants are 
purchased at a moderate cost, even the amateur may find them 
within his means. Following Azaleas, we have the showy 
Rhododendrons ; in fact, the latter are now included by botanists 
with Azaleas, some going so far as to state that the name of one 
applies to the other ; but, be that as it may, many of the 
Rhododendrons force well, and provide gorgeous plants for rooms 
or conservatories. The large trusses of blossoms continue fresh 
in a cut state for a long time in warm rooms in vases of water. 
Some of the scented forms, like R. Edgivorthii, emit a very 
pleasing odour, and if treated as advised for Azaleas will force 
freely every year. 

Lilacs are admirable plants for forcing. Strong plants grown in 
the nursery (from which they can be lifted and potted, or if large 
plants, with big balls of roots, put in tubs) may be forced in the 
dark, and the flowers of pink varieties will thus be white. But 
in forcing Lilacs, either in the dark or in a proper forcing- 
house, it is best to remove all the buds on the previous year's 
growth except the one at the point ; this often means all the 
difference between success and failure, as the side buds seem to 
draw on the strength of the terminal bud, and to prevent it 
from developing a good truss of flower. After forcing gradually 
harden off the plants, and put out in the nursery again in good 
soil ; in a couple of years the plants will be ready to force 
again. If no nursery is available, plants may be purchased 
annually at a small cost, and having served their purpose may 
be thrown away or planted out permanently in the shrubberies. 

All the Deutzias are first-rate plants for forcing, and, like the 
Lilacs, may easily be had in blossom at Christmas by putting 
healthy, vigorous plants in strong heat about the middle of 
November. After flowering most of the old wood should be 
cut away, and every encouragement given to the plants to make 
new growth. When this is completed for the season, they can be 
gradually hardened, placed outside, and forced again the following 



938 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



winter. Some of the Viburnums are lovely plants for early 
forcing, but to have them in full beauty they should be brought 
on gradually, and not subjected to strong heat at first. Nearly 
all the shrubby Spirseas force famously, and continue in 
blossom for a long time if placed in a light and moderately- 
warm greenhouse or conservatory. Even the common Laburnum 
and Wistaria sinensis have lately been proved suitable for forcing 
in spring. Quite small plants well established in pots blossom 
profusely; the yellow pendent racemes of the former and the 
delicate blue blossoms of the latter, are striking objects amongst 
other forced plants. 

Staphyleas, covered with beautiful white flowers, are always 
objects demanding attention, and being of easy culture and 
forcing readily, should have a place amongst shrubs for 
supplying flowers early. In the Primus family we have a grand 
collection of plants, varying in colour of blossoms from pure 
white to lovely shades of pinkish-red, all of which will force 
with ease, and a certainty of success. When we add Roses in 
their different forms and almost innumerable varieties, some idea 
can be formed of the many valuable plants at the command of 
the present-day gardener. The list of such might be extended 
considerably, and many more equally suitable things named ; but 
quite sufTlicient has been mentioned to indicate that with the 
means and accommodation available there need be no dearth of 
fresh and exquisite flowers of almost every hue all through the 
winter and spring months. 

Where means are limited, and it is impossible to afford the 
purchase of new shrubs, (S:c., annually, special attention ought to 
be paid to the growth of the plants after they have done 
blossoming by keeping them in the house, and encouraging the 
formation of young wood by pruning out all waste or exhausted 
shoots or twigs, by feeding with chemical or diluted liquid manure, 
and by putting the plants outside only after properly hardening 
off and when the weather is safe for them to be outside. When 
placed outside immediately after flowering in a warm greenhouse 
a violent check is given, and naturally plants so treated will not 
be in a fit condition to flower again or force the following 
winter. In many gardens space under glass is so valuable that 
room can ill be spared for plants that have performed their 
functions ; still, it is best to supply this necessary space and 
attention. 

For Methods of Forcing Fruit, see Chapter "On Fruit Culture.'"' 




21— On Plant 



By 

A. Griessen. 



Propagation. 



Through the varied means of plant propagation, Horticulture 
has, to a large extent, reached its present high position. In 
competitions between growers the results have been such that 
we have greatly improved on the methods of increasing plants, 
and it is also due to the advance in this art that our new 
introductions are in most cases so rapidly distributed. First, 
as to the 



Propagating= House. 

In the erection of a propagating-house, several things have to 
be taken into consideration, for, without a suitable house, propa- 
gation in many instances becomes a very difficult matter. The 
plan shown in Fig. 614 combines several improvements. Heat, 
moisture, and light are essential conditions in propagation. Any 
kind of small house may easily be transformed into a propagating- 
house at a very small cost, provided heat can be obtained when 
wanted ; but in the erection of a new house, the first consideration 
must be to find a suitable ground through which water will 
drain easily. If this cannot be obtained, it would be advisable 
to turn the soil over to a depth of 3ft. or 4ft., and put in good 
drainage. The situation must also be considered. It is a good 



940 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



plan to build the house from north to . south ; the east side will 
get the sun in the morning and the west side in the afternoon, 
while the solar influence will be equally distributed at the 
middle of the day. The door should be made on the south 
end, and th-e boiler fixed at the north end. If the house is to 
stand by itself, it will be preferable to build it partly under 
ground, so that it will not be quickly affected by atmospheric 




Fig. 614. — Plan of Propagating -House. 



A, A , Frames. 

B, B, Lights. 

C, C, Propagating Beds. 

E, E, Supports for Hot-water Pipes, 

F, F, Hot-water Pipes. 



G, G, Planks to Block the Heat under 

the Stages. 

H, Tablet. 

/;", h", Tablet Supports. 

7, /, Hooks to Fasten Lights. 



i, i, Rings to Fasten Lights. 

changes ; but if it has to be combined with another group of 
houses, it will if possible be advisable to place it between two 
warm ones. 

Side walls should be built with bricks. Wood should only be 
used in the construction of the roof, for wood is the best isolater, 
while iron, with its conductive properties, is too easily affected 
by atmospheric influences. A few ventilators must be made on 
each side of the roof. In propagating-houses air is very seldom 
admitted at the bottom on account of all the heat being wanted 
for the propagating-beds. 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



941 



It is preferable to have, as shown in the illustration, 
some hollow stages which can be closed up by the planks 
G, G ; these can easily be made in lengths of several feet, 
and can be removed if not wanted. Slates should be used 
in the making of the stages, and no cement joins must 
be allowed. Water should drain through quite easily, and 
the heat can also pass through and heat the propagating- 
beds (c, c), which can be composed of sand, cocoanut-fibre, 
sawdust, &c. 

The frames (a, a) can also be easily made. Two long 
» planks are required, one i|ft. wide on the back and the other 
ijft. on the front. They must be fixed one to the walls and 
the other to the stage, and between each light a transverse 
piece of wood will unite the two sides. The lights (b, b) are 
only placed on the frame, and if they have to be removed they 
can be fastened with the hooks (i, i) in the rings /) on the 
front of the lights. During the summer, if they are not required, 
they can be removed altogether. A top or hanging shelf (h) 
has been drawn above the path, leaving 6ft. 6in. No side shelf 
could very well be fixed there, owing to the lights, which are 
constantly being moved up and down. This shelf is of very 
great use, chiefly for pans or boxes containing plants in the 
course of propagation, and requiring to be placed as close 
as possible to the glass. Seedlings are successfully raised on 
this shelf, for heat, moisture, and light are always combined 
there. Great attention must be given to the heating power, 
for during propagating time no fluctuation of temperature must 
be allowed in the beds. A glass thermometer must be half 
buried therein to be used as a guide. About 8odeg. Fahr. 
must be kept up in winter with fire-heat and moisture. This 
house must also be provided with shading. Canvas is an 
excellent material for this purpose, and it can also be used 
during sharp frosts. In the spring, when the sun becomes too 
powerful, a double shading could be placed inside directly on 
the lights. Two tanks are required, one on the stage receiving 
heat for propagating water-loving plants, and another for watering 
purposes. Of course all rain-water should be collected, and 
the water in the tank must always be kept at the house 
temperature. A larger case could also be arranged at one end 
of the house for big-growing plants which require a very close 
temperature. Room close to the door should be allowed for 
a potting-table, for as soon as the plants are rooted they 
require to be potted up, and it would be very detrimental 
to take them into another place to do this. The dimensions 
given on the drawing indicate a very handsome house. It 
could easily be built ift. lower, thus making it easier to heat, 
but in most respects the illustration will be found a trustw^orthy 
guide. 



942 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Amongst the various methods of propagation in vogue at the 
present time are the following : seedlings^ decidedly the most 
natural way ; division of plants or rootsfocks, under which may 
be classed the numerous modes of propagation by bulbils, tubers, 
offsets, suckers, runners, and layers ; next come cuttings, which 
are largely used in horticulture; and, finally, we have budding 
and grafting. The last-named two are the most artificial modes 
of propagation, but it is by these methods that an enormous 
quantity of trees and shrubs which form the chief ornamentation 
of our gardens, »S:c., are propagated. 

Seeds and Seedlings. 

Seeds are only obtained from flowering plants, and are the 
product of the union of the two sexual parts. In non-flowering 
plants (generally called Cryptogams) such as Ferns, Fungi, and 
Mosses, the reproductive power is found in spores, the groups 
of which can easily be seen below the surface of their leaves, 
or fronds. Seeds and spores possess all the elements required 
for the formation of plants if they are submitted to suitable 
conditions. 

Although seedlings are the most natural mode of propagation, 
they do not answer for everything. Flowers are very readily 
influenced by "foreign" pollen, which in some instances has a 
predominant influence, and this fact is proved every day if we 
carefully w^atch the artificial conditions under which plants are 
cultivated. Horticulturists have found various advantages in the 
cross-fertilisation of flowers, commonly known as hybridisation, 
and it is through most careful selection of parent plants that 
many of our garden and greenhouse subjects have been improved. 
Glance twenty years back. What were our Roses, Gloxinias, 
Primulas, Begonias, Anthuriums, &c. ? What an amount of work 
has been done in that time ! The hybridisation of Orchids, 
which was then almost unknown, is now carried out in nearly all 
collections, and the plants so obtained are generally far superior 
to the parents. 

Seeds, as a rule, reproduce more or less the typical plant, 
but by careful selection the species may be improved, the seeds 
thus obtained producing in some cases a new type or variety 
more valuable than the original. 

Testing Seeds. — Seeds ought to be sown while as fresh as 
possible, so as to prevent disappointment. Several methods ot 
testing them have been recommended. One is to place them 
in water, when those sinking to the bottom are supposed to 
be good, whilst the bad ones remain on the surface ; but not 
much value can be attached to this test, for in some cases the 
good seeds (especially oily kinds) will also float. It is a good 
plan to pick a few seeds from the lot and to cut them in two 



ox PLANT PROPAGATION. 



943 



pieces, when the germinating organ will show by its plump 
nature and white colour if they are in good order. 

Preserving Seeds. — To preserve for a long period the germ- 
inative qualities of seeds they must be kept in a condition neither 
too dry nor too wet, say at a temperature not exceeding 45deg. 
Fahr., and where outside weather will not have any effect on 
them. Several seeds, like those of Aralia and Papyrus, which 
lose their germinating properties very rapidly, must be sown 
as soon as they have ripened ; but when they ripen in 
autumn, it is preferable to wait until the spring to sow 
them. In this case they may be mixed with sand or soil and 
placed in a ventilated bag, which must be kept as mentioned 
above until sowing-time. In the case of annuals and numerous 
soft-wooded plants, the seedlings of which are unable to withstand 
any degree of cold, similar precautions should be observed. 

Seeds of Aquatics can easily be kept in the ordinary way 
indicated above, with the exception of the beautiful Vidoj-ia 
re,s^ia, whose seeds must always be kept in water. See Chapter 
"On Aquatic Plants." 

Biennials should be sown about the middle of spring, so that 
the young plants will be established before the winter, and ready 
to flower in the following summer. In the case of hardy, woody 
plants, the seeds should be sown in the autumn, as they will not 
suffer from the cold, and will commence growing with the 
spring. 

Stratification.— By this method seeds which quickly lose their 
germinative properties may be preserved. The direct action of air 
has a very detrimental effect on seeds, and those requiring pro- 
tection are mostly stratified as soon as they are collected. The 
simplest way to do this is to take a receptacle of any sort 
possessing some outlets to prevent any stagnation, and of a size 
suitable to the quantity of seeds to be preserved. On the 
bottom of it should be laid a thin bed of breeze (small pieces of 
unburnt coke), and this should be covered with one of sand, on 
which the seeds should be deposited as closely as possible. 
Another layer of sand should now be added, then more seeds, 
and so on until the pan is filled, when the whole must be 
covered with more breeze to keep away worms. It is advisable 
to stand the receptacle in the coolest place. As cellars are too 
warm in winter, a good plan would be to bury it underground at 
a sufficient depth to avoid frost. The soil placed on the top 
must be arranged in such a way as to form a kind of cone to 
keep off the water ; and this especially applies to tree and 
vegetable seeds. Stratification is also useful for tropical and 
sub-tropical seeds, which would otherwise lose their germinative 
properties before their arrival here. Cocoa- and Coffee-tree seeds 
must be stratified as soon as collected. 



944 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Softening. — One great advantage of the softening process is 
to help the germination of a quantity of seeds which would 
otherwise require a considerable amount of time before showing 
any sign of life, during which time they might be destroyed by 
insect pests. Take for instance Palm seeds — these afford a 
very good example of the utility of softening, especially Cocos, 
Euterpe, Geonoma, and Latania — which are actually grown 
in very large quantities, and which would in some cases require 
a couple of years or more to germinate. 

The following is the commonest method of softening, and one 
which is often resorted to in nurseries. Seeds on their arrival 
are deposited in large pans without soil of any kind, placed on 
the hot-water pipes of a warm house, and kept in a state of 
permanent saturation. Under these conditions, if the seeds are 
in perfect order, they soon give signs of germinating ; indeed, 
a fortnight is sometimes sufficient time for several of them to 
show their embryos. All germinated seeds are carefully removed 
so as not to injure any of them, and then planted in pans or 
boxes in a very light soil, and kept in a warm house with a 
certain amount of bottom - heat to encourage growth. The 
remaining seeds are looked over nearly every day, and all 
those germinating removed, as without this precaution the 
embryo might easily be broken. 

In the case of old seeds, the germinative properties of which 
are doubtful, they may be placed for several hours in slightly 
warmed water, with a handful of salt to each gallon ; this helps 
the tissue to swell, and so aids germination. The thicker the 
shell the longer they may remain in water. Proofs of this may 
easily be obtained with Cabbages, Peas, Beans, &c., which have 
a very thin shell, and for which twelve hours are sufficient : but 
hard seeds require twenty to forty hours or more. This method 
is especially advantageous if the seeds have to be sown on dry 
ground. 

Filing Off. — This method is mostly applied to seeds which 
possess a very hard shell, and it must be done very carefully, filing 
that part of the seed in which the embryo is showing. They 
should then be placed on bottom-heat with moisture, when they 
w'ill germinate much quicker, as is the case with Nelumbiums 
and some Palms. 

Sowing. — Another very important point is the depth at which 
seeds should be sown. Taking the w^hole range from the 
enormous Cocoanut to the imperceptible seeds of Orchids, we 
may say generally that they must be sown at a depth equal to 
their size : for instance, Cocoanut seeds, with a diameter of yin., 
must be covered with about 7 in. of material, while the dust-like 
Orchid seeds should be placed on the top of the compost. Very 
fine seeds, such as those of Begonia, may be mixed with 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



945 



an equal portion of dry sand, as the sowing is then more 
regular. 

The period of sowing varies a great deal, and apart from the 
time already mentioned, it is also sometimes necessary to sow 
them according to the season at which the flowers, vegetables, 
and fruits are Vv^anted — that is to say, when they are grown under 
artificial conditions. 

Seeds are sown in various ways, mostly depending on their 
origin, sizes, &c., and the soil or material in which they have to be 
sown must more or less approximate to that on which they naturally 
*grow. Many vegetable- and flower-seeds are sown on hot-beds, 
which must be well drained, and formed of a light mixture of 
loam, leaf-mould, and sand, carefully sifted so as to remove all 
stones or big lumps. For tropical or sub-tropical plants seeds 
may be sown in pans or pots, but boxes may also be used ; these 
receptacles must be well drained and cleaned. In this instance 
the soil must be lighter and more sandy, and the seedlings 
must be kept in warm propagating frames. In the case of Fern 
spores it is advisable to neutralise the soil intended to receive 
them. This neutralisation, or sterilisation, is easily effected by 
burning the loam or compost, and no foreign matters can in this 
case have any effect on the young plants. This method may 
also be applied to a multitude of fine seeds, which will require, 
as soon as they have germinated, to be pricked off ; e.g.^ many of 
the Begonias and the Gesneracece. The seeds of several hardy 
plants or trees are sown quite naturally, as is the case with 
many soft-wooded plants and numerous outdoor trees. Aquatic 
seeds should be sown in the usual manner in pots or pans, 
but they require to be submerged in water. This matter is, 
however, fully gone into in the chapter devoted to those 
plants. 

Seedlings in Pans or Boxes. — Seeds sown in pans or boxes 
are those which are required to be removed from place to place ; 
it is therefore preferable that the pans or boxes be all of the 
same dimensions — ^square or rectangular — so as to prevent loss of 
space. The depth of these receptacles varies : deep ones are 
generally used for big strong-rooting plants, and shallow ones for 
little seedlings, which soon have to be pricked off or trans- 
planted. These receptacles must be well drained, so that no 
excess of water is allowed. The compost employed ought to be 
suitable to the kind of seeds sown. 

Seedlings in Pots. — This method of sowing is particularly 
employed for large seeds, like those of many Palms, which 
are too big to be sown in pans, or which suffer a great deal 
when transplanted — Cocos nucifera^ for example. The pots are 
placed on hot-beds, and as soon as the seeds germinate 
they may be potted up if required. Such big seeds are often 

3 P 



946 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



sown on cocoanut-fibre in the frame of a propagating-house. 
Pots would answer quite as well as pans or boxes for small 
seeds, only they have the disadvantage of taking up too much 
room ; but they are often used for Fern spores, and for some 
classes of plants when seeds are sown in small quantities. 

Natural Sowing. — This kind of sowing is, of course, going 
on all over the earth. We may take for example the way in 
which a quantity of our British trees, shrubs, and other plants 
propagate themselves ; and it is exactly the same with tropical 
and sub-tropical subjects in their native countries. The seeds 
when ripe drop to the ground, and when they find the con- 
ditions required they germinate and grow where they fall. 
It is also curious to note that many tropical and sub-tropical 
plants reproduce themselves in the same way in our houses, 
and some very striking examples might be mentioned. Take 
for instance a multitude of Fern spores which have been sown 
in pans in a most careful manner. Often it will be noticed that 
during the operation of sowing, spores get blown off, and germinate 
at the other end of the house, growing on the brick wall where 
moisture is permanent. In nurseries where Ferns are grown in 
considerable quantities, attention is always given to spores which 
germinate on walls or elsewhere. 

Orchids are also prone to sowing themselves ; indeed, this is 
mostly found with very light seeds or spores. Orchids are gene- 
rally sown on the top of the compost of some other plants, as 
their seeds are so fine that the least action of air will easily 
blow them away, and they have several times been found 
germinating and growing along a wall or on woodwork. A most 
peculiar example of this is shown in the Orchid collection at 
Burford Bridge, where a splendid specimen of Vanda Sanderiaiia 
may be seen with a colony of Orchid seedlings growing on its 
roots. These instances serve to show us how little practically 
we at present know about the natural conditions under which 
tropical and sub-tropical plants grow. 

Aquatics are mostly and successfully sown in water, e.g., 
Victoria regia, numerous Nymphseas, and many others. The 
seeds should be sown in pans or pots, with a mixture of fibrous 
loam, leaf-mould, and sand, and the receptacles covered and 
placed in the tank of the house a few inches below the water 
level, and kept at an average temperature of 8odeg. As soon 
as the plants commence to grow they may be transplanted in 
pots separately. They must always be kept under water ; and as 
the plants grow the level of the water must be gradually raised, 
or the plants sunk, so as to enable them to float on the surface. 

Hot-beds. — It is not always necessary to have a propagating- 
house, as many plants may be raised in frames containing a hot-bed, 
the bottom of which must be composed of fermenting matter, such 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



947 



as stable sweepings, leaves, spent hops, &c., which are chiefly used 
in the preparation of hot-beds. The depths of the beds may vary 
from 2ft. to 3ft., according 
to the amount of heat re- 
quired. Once the frames 
(Fig, 615) are fixed on, 
another bed of a couple 
of inches of suitable soil 
or fibre is laid on, and 
the whole is covered with 
Mights. At first the heat Fig. 615.— Two-light Frame. 

increases so rapidly that 

it is advisable to wait a few days until the thermometer has 
dropped to a safe heat (about yodeg.). Seeds sown in pans 
or pots may then easily be started in these frames, and they may 
also in many instances be sown directly on the beds ; indeed, 
this method is often adopted for early vegetables. These hot- 
beds under frames are very much used on the Continent. 

Pricking-off, &c. — Pricking-off is a kind of transplantation, 
which is required by nearly every seedling, especially those sown 
in a very limited space, as in pans, pots, &c. It is really 
surprising how thickly some young seedlings will come ; they 
then require to be thinned, and that is the time to do the 
pricking-off. Thinning is the first necessity for the welfare of 
the whole patch ; if this is not done, the young plants will grow 
up weakly, and will soon be exhausted. The operation must 
always be done with great care, to avoid breaking any roots or 
otherwise injuring the young seedlings. Some kinds of plants 
require several prickings-olf to enable them to root more freely. 
The soil or compost used for this subsequent pricking-off must be 
more substantial than that in w^hich the seedlings were first sown. 

It is a difficult matter to describe all the ins and outs in 
regard to seedlings. All receptacles, frames, or outside beds in 
which seedlings are to be sown must be clean, so as to prevent 
them from coming in contact with any deleterious matter. 
Inside seedlings must be protected from the direct rays of the 
sun, and must not be allowed to become either too dry or too 
wet. The surface of the soil in which seeds are sown may be 
■covered with a thin layer of silver-sand, so as to protect them 
from cryptogamous vegetation. No w-eeds or mosses of any kind 
must be allow^ed to get a footing. The temperature should also be 
observed ; it can gradually be increased until the plants begin to 
grow^ A great point is to place the pans or boxes as near to the 
glass as possible as soon as the seedlings develop their first leaves. 

Division. 

Next in importance to propagation by seeds comes the 
present method, by which a great many plants are propagated. 




948 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING> 



Under this heading may be classed bulbils, tubers, offsets, 
suckers, runners, and division of plants or rootstock. 

Offsets. — A large proportion of plants are propagated by 
division of their underground parts — rhizomes, tubers, bulbs, &c. 
Bulbous plants mostly produce close to their roots, and attached 
to them, a certain number of offsets, which, when taken off, 
are used for propagation. "Bulbs" like those of Crocuses, 
Gladiolus, Szc, are called " corms," and they also produce 
a number of offsets. An offset is a small shoot capable of 
taking root after separation from the parent plant or bulb. 
When the parent plants have reached their resting period, and 
they have lost all their leaves, then the bulbs may be taken 
up, and division may be effected ; all must then remain 
at rest until planting time. The small offsets, or corms, are 
planted at the same time as the parent plants, but they require 
a lighter soil and perfect drainage to prevent stagnation. This 
kind of propagation is very widely applied to the majority of 
our bulbous plants — Tulips, Hyacinths, Crocuses, Hsemanthuses, 
and Gladioli. Bulbous Caladiums are also propagated in a 
similar manner. . 

Bulbils. — A certain class of plants produce bulbils, which 
are in many instances used for propagation. Such is the case 
with Dioscorea Japojiica, a few kinds of Lilium, (Sec, and 
in prolific Ferns, such as Aspleniums, bulbils are found on the 
fronds. They may easily be removed, and planted in pans or 
boxes in a light soil, when they will soon develop into a 
new plant, if given suitable conditions. These remarks also apply 
to Remusatia vivipara, Mandirola, &c. 

Tubers and Tubercules are underground succulent stems, 
possessing a multitude of buds, or eyes, from which, in 
many cases, new plants and tubers are obtained. Nearly all 
tuberous plants have a certain period of rest, which is more or 
less pronounced, and it is during the resting period that propaga- 
tion is most successful. A tuber may be cut into as many 
pieces as there are eyes, or buds, on it, but care must be taken 
to have at least one growing eye on each part. Potatoes illus- 
trate this very well. 

Divisions of tubers must be planted and started in boxes in a 
light soil and in a moderate temperature. Dioscorea is chiefly 
propagated by division of the tubers, performed while the plants 
are at rest, for the stems of tuberous plants are all annual, and 
it is only when these have perished that the tubers ripen. The 
tubers are planted when the growing period is again approaching 
— in open ground if potatoes, in pots or pans if exotics, which 
must be kept under glass, so as to approximate as far as 
possible to their native climates, and when growing they must 
be treated as fully established plants. 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



949 



The term "tuber" is widely applied to several fleshy tuber 
like roots, such as Dahlias, &c., but this is incorrect, for if 
those roots were cut into pieces, they would not give a new 
plant unless a shoot of the crown were attached to them. On 
proper tubers the eyes, or buds, are found all round them. 

Stolons, or Runners, are a kind of branches, arising mostly 
from the base of the stock plant, remaining, in most cases, on 
the ground or soil and rooting at their tips, the tips finally 
forming another plant, which soon thrives by itself. Stolons are 
» chiefly found in Ferns — e.g., in Nephrolepis, the stolons of 
which are abundantly produced. Offsets, such as are found in 
Sempervivums, are sometimes considered as very short stolons. 
Runners are really very slender stolons or filiferous branches or 
stems, rooting at their ends, and which when separated and 
transplanted form as many plants in ground that has been well 
prepared and manured. This is the commonest mode of propa- 
gation used for the Strawberry. Some Saxifrag es, as S. sarme?itosa, 
are also easily propagated by this method. 

Rhizomes. — A rhizome may be described as a kind of stem of 
root-like appearance, found on or under the ground, and sending 
out numerous rootlets, while its extremity or apex sends up 
herbaceous stems. Rhizomes, runners, or stolons grow very 
quickly, and if the parent plant is in good growth these root- 
like parts are constantly on the move. Numerous, also, are 
the plants propagated by division of their rhizomes, e.g., 
Hedychiums, Polymnias, Cannas, Irises, &c. Fig. 616, showing 
surface rhizomes 
of the German 
Iris, explains 
how easily this 
propagation may 
be performed 
The rhizome in 
Fig. 616 may 
be cut into as 
many pieces as 
are required, 
allowing, of 
course, at least 
one eye, or 
growth, to each 
piece ; and the 
same applies to 
the other species 

mentioned. The divisions may be planted in pots or in beds, 
and when sufficiently strong should receive the same treatment 
as established plants. Several of the Gesneracece have a kind of 




95° 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



scaly rhizomes, which may be treated as seeds, and planted in 
pans or boxes in a very light soil in warm frames until they 
are strong enough to be transplanted. 

Division of Plants. — Many plants are propagated by this 
means, and it may in some respects be applied to all bush}- 
growing subjects, such as many of our stove and hardy plants. 
Many Aroids are easily divided into several pieces ; so are 
Curculigos, Aspidistras, and all plants giving several young 
shoots. The chief points are that each division should possess 
enough roots, and that it should be potted up freshly, and be 
carefully treated after the operation. This kind of propagation 
is the simplest in horticulture. It is the way in which Marantas, 
a great number of Ferns, and the majority of our Orchids are 
propagated. The period for the operation varies with individual 
plants, but it is most successfully performed when they begin 
to grow. 

Suckers are shoots of underground origin, generally found 
growing by the side of the parent plant, and numerous plants 
may be propagated thereby. When suckers are detached they 
should, if possible, have a few roots attached to them, to enable 
them to start - growing quickly. Suckers from any origin must be 
treated as young plants ; a lighter soil must be used, no excess 
of humidity allowed, and the plants kept on a warm bed to 
facilitate starting. Pine-apples are often propagated thus : the 
suckers are cut off, left for a few days in order for the cut to 
"callus," and then placed on a strong bottom-heat in fibre or 
light soil, when they soon begin to grow. Cycas and nearly 



— A great number of our 
stove and greenhouse plants, such as Aralias, Bouvardias, 
Dracaenas, &:c., may be propagated by division of their roots ; 




Fig. 617. — Dahlia Roots, showing 
Tuber-like Roots, with Mode 
OF Division for Propagation. 




all Bromeliads, &c., are 
chiefly reproduced by this 
method. A common example 
is the well-known Globe 
Artichoke, which is often 
propagated by suckers from 
the old stocks. The separa- 
tion of the suckers generally 
takes place in May. Care 
must be taken to have a 
good amount of soil over 
the roots, and they should 
be planted out in a well- 
manured ground. Suckers 
have the great advantage of 
reproducing the true type. 



Division of Rootstocks. 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



these may be cut in very small parts, each of which will produce 
a young shoot if submitted to. the required conditions. These 
root-divisions should be placed in pans or boxes, as close as 
possible, in a very light soil ; or sometimes only fibre or sand 
need be used. The receptacles must be placed on a certain 
amount of bottom-heat, to enable the young shoots to break 
easily. As soon as they begin to grow, and have made both 
roots and leaves, they must be potted separately in suitable soil, 
and replaced in heat until rooted, when they may be treated 
^as ordinary plants. Many Dahlias possess several fleshy tuber- 
like roots, which may be separated singly for propagation, allowing 
one shoot to each, as shown in Fig. 617. Numerous other 
plants possessing the same characteristics can also be propagated 
by the above means. 

Layering. 

This is one of the oldest methods of propagation, 
and also one which is often seen under really natural con- 
ditions. By this operation a branch is enabled to make roots 
without being separated from the parent plant. It is chiefly 
resorted to in the case of plants which cannot easily be reproduced 
from cuttings, and for such it is very advantageous. The plants 
to be layered may be divided into two groups : (i) Those pos- 
sessing woody shoots, such as trees and shrubs, in which cases it 
is generally preferable to use well-ripened shoots; and (2) 
herbaceous plants having soft stems provided with leaves, in 
layering which it is advisable to remove the leaves from the 
portion of the stem to be layered. For hardy outdoor plants 
layering may be successfully performed in the open during summer 
months. For indoor layers no increase of heat is required. 

Reproduction by layering is also divided into several classes, 
all answering the same purpose, but each particular principle 
being applied more or less to a certain kind of plants. The 
chief methods are bending , or pegging the branch into the 
ground, tongueing, ringing, piercing, and insertion of the growing 
point, &c. 

Bending. — The simplest mode of layering is to bend into 
prepared ground the selected branch. Only a few buds must be 
retained close to the top, but all lower buds or eyes that would 
be buried must be carefully removed. The underground portion 
is fixed in such a manner as to prevent it from shifting, and the 
extremity must be fixed to a stake to keep it in an upright 
position. 

Ringing is another method which is very well illustrated in 
Fig. 618, B. The branch is bent into the ground and well 
secured by a peg ; a kind of ring is taken out of the bark, 
but in this case the outer and inner portion of the layers is 



4 



952 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



cut quite through, and consequently the sap is stopped on its 
return. The whole is buried well in the ground in such a 

manner that the cut 
portion remains in 
a moist condition. 

TONGUEING. — 

This mode of layer- 
ing is widely prac- 
tised. An incision 
is made partly 
through the branch 
lengthwise, and 
varies in size ac- 
cording to the 
dimensions of the 
layer {see Fig. 

A peg is fixed above the incision, and soil inserted 
the tongue and the stem. This method is chiefly 
to for Carnations (Fig. 619). In the case of hard- 




FiG. 618. — Layering (a) by Toxgueing, or 
Heeling, and (b) by Ringing. 



618, a). 
between 
resorted 




KiG. 619. — Layered Carnatk^n Shoot. 

wooded subjects, it would be necessary to put a wedge in the 
cut to keep it open. 

Piercing is another simple and ordinary way of layering. 
Like all other underground methods, the selected layer is bent 
downwards, and the under part of it, forming the base of the 
curve (as shown in Fig. 620), is cut or punctured with a sharp 
knife. There should not be any bruises, the cut being made 
quite cleanly to prevent decomposition. jNIany growers prefer to 
remove a notch or eye found at the base of the layer as shown 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



953 




Fig. 620. — Layering by Piercing or Notching. 



in the illustration. Pegs are used to fix layers, and a light 
soil employed to cover the whole. 

Insertion of the Growing Point. — This is another excellent 
method useful when 
roots are found 
already attached to 
the layer, as is 
often seen in Cur- 
rants and Goose- 
berries. When 
placed in a well- 
manured soil at the 
beginning of the 
summer, these 
layers will be found 

covered with roots by the autumn, and already possessing a 
growing bud. This fact is noticeable in several other shrubs. 

Layering above the Ground (also known as Circumposition). 
— When the branches to be layered are too far off the ground to 
be bent down, this principle is applied in several ways. Small 
boxes are used, or a flower-pot is cut into two pieces, 
and these receptacles are fastened together around the 
portion to be operated on, being fixed in such a way as to 
prevent them from moving ; long stakes, w^ell secured in the 
ground, and to which boxes or pots may be attached, are 
sufficient. Instead of cutting the pot into two pieces, a section 
could be taken out of one side equivalent to the size of the 
branch to be propagated. Then the stem or branch may be easily 
fixed in the middle of the pot, and a piece of slate or glass used 
to close it up. The selected branches must be treated by the 
tongueing or ringing method, and the boxes or pots afterwards 
filled up with a very light soil, corresponding in some respects 
with that in which the parent plant is growing. The whole is 
generally covered w^th moss, which is kept saturated to prevent 
the soil from drying. When the branches begin to root, a partial 
incision is made in the stem just below the receptacle, thus 
enabling the sap to continue flowing ; but as it cannot return it 
flows into the young roots. After the layered portion has emitted 
enough roots, it is entirely removed.- 

This method of propagation is often applied to Cordylines 
(Dracaenas). Some plants, such as Crotons and the above-men- 
tioned, which sometimes reach a large size and lose their bottom 
leaves, can by this means be reduced to the dimensions required. 

Layering Underground. — In this process the layered part 
which is to develop the roots is put in contact with the earth. 
If the branches are flexible, they are bent downwards in a place 
previously prepared with a lighter soil, according to the nature 
of the subject. 



954 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



For plants which suffer by being shifted (possessing dehcate 
and easily injured roots) another method may be mentioned. 
Baskets, boxes, or pots may be fixed in the ground where the 
branches have to be placed ; the roots will develop in those 
receptacles, and when the plants are sufficiently rooted they may 
be transplanted at any time without being in the least affected. Of 
the present method of propagation Lapagerias are good examples. 

Period of Layering. — According to climate and the nature 
of the plants, in the case of trees and shrubs layering may 
be practised from the beginning of spring till the middle of 
summer, employing the previous year's wood. As regards 
herbaceous layers, it is more advantageous to perform the 
operation during the summer, or as soon as suitable branches 
are available. 

Cuttings. 

Propagation by cuttings is very extensively practised, and is 
certainly one of the most useful methods. It consists in taking off 
a living portion of a plant, and placing it under such favourable 
conditions that it will root and form a new plant. Numerous 
subjects are successfully propagated by this means, by which 
also true sorts are kept up — that is to say, without any modification 
in the type ; for, as already stated, plants propagated by seeds 
give rise to many unexpected varieties. Not every plant can be 
propagated by means of cuttings, for although many species 
are easily multiplied by it, there are a large number for 
which the method would not answer at all. However, some 
plants possess in all their parts the qualities required ; and as 
a striking example we may mention some of the well-known 
Cordylines, or Dracaenas, from which the head can be detached 
to form a terminal cutting. The stem can be cut into portions, 
each of which if provided with leaves can be treated as the 
first-mentioned ; when leafless, these portions can be placed 
in moist sand on a strong bottom-heat, when they will give 
rise to a certain number of young shoots or plants, which can 
be potted up separately. These all spring from the latent buds 
which are to be seen at the base of the leaves, 

Cuttings are generally taken from branches provided with 
leaves. The leafless stems of many plants are also suitable for 
propagation by this method ; while roots also, for a certain 
class of plants, and leaves and divisions of leaves, are often 
used as cuttings, as well as the filiform branches of several 
plants, &c. 

Cuttings of the majority of our soft-wooded plants require a 
closer atmosphere, a higher degree of temperature, and a more 
even degree of saturation than do the plants from which they 
are taken. Nearly all exotics may be so propagated. For the 
hard-wooded section such artificial treatment is not required. 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



955 



Some of them, indeed, may be accommodated outside in beds 
previously prepared with light soil ; but others require to be 
l)rotected with lights, &c. They may, however, easily be pro- 
[)agated under quite simple conditions. 

Selection of Cuttings.— It is extremely difficult to describe 
how cuttings ought to be selected, for a certain amount of 
practical knowledge is required, and many things have to be 
taken into consideration. Cuttings should only be taken from 
healthy plants or growths possessing no appearance of disease. 
Ni\merous are the stove and greenhouse plants which may be 
increased by means of herbaceous cuttings, in which case it is 
preferable to select the stock plants a few weeks before propa- 
gation, and to have them potted up and placed in a little 
more heat, to induce them to grow freely, and thus produce 
some stronger growths, which may be more successfully struck. 
Before propagating fohage plants it is also advisable to sponge 
them very carefully with an insecticide to destroy any Thrips 
or Red Spider, which are so injurious to this class of plant. 

As regards deciduous trees or shrubs, cuttings must be taken 
during the summer, enabling them to take root before they lose 
their leaves ; otherwise, when their resting period approaches, 
the cuttings would perish. Young ripened wood or branches 
give the best results, and of course terminal cuttings are preferable. 
The evergreen, or true hard-wooded section, do not require such 
attention. However, the cuttings must be taken from well- 
ripened and healthy branches. ^Many plants belonging to this 
group require to be propagated by means of terminal cuttings. 

Leaf-cuttings are often used for the reproduction of many 
Bego7iiacece and Gesneracece. It is advisable to take only fully- 
developed and characterised leaves free from disease, because if 
too soft they will "damp off" easily. 

Cuttings of any description must be cut perfectly clean, and 
with the soft-wooded section it is preferable to take only a small 
quantity at a time to prevent them from drooping. The hard- 
wooded section do not require such particular treatment, but if 
a certain number of cuttings have been taken in advance it is 
advisable to keep them in a shady place, slightly damped. 

Co^^iPOSTS. — Cuttings need a very light soil, through which 
water can readily drain, and various materials are used for this 
purpose. Soft-wooded cuttings require, more than any others, a 
very light compost. Silver- and river-sands are the best substances 
for cutting-beds, and the plants that may be propagated in them 
are very numerous — e.g., Drac^nas or Cordylines, Crotons or 
Codiceums, a quantity of 2Ielastomacece., Bego?iiacece, and many 
soft-wooded plants like Chrysanthemums, Verbenas, Calceolarias, 
Heliotropes, 6cc. The chief advantage of good sand is that 
it is pure, and free from living matter. Sawdust is also a useful 
material, but it must be often renewed, because the constant 



956 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



saturation required in propagation will soon decompose it. 
However, in large nurseries, where Ficus elastica are grown by 
thousands, sawdust is always used. It is extremely light and 
retains the heat very well. Cocoaniit-fibre has only been used 
during recent years. It answ^ers very well, and in several nurseries 
it is employed as a substitute for sand and sawdust ; but it must 
be said of sand that it does not perish, whilst sawdust, fibre, 
&C.5 soon become rotten. Our well-known British sphagnum 
is an excellent factor, not only in the cultivation of Orchids, 
but also in propagation. Nepenthes are successfully increased 
when inserted in moss, but some growers prefer cocoanut- 
fibre. Several Vandas belonging to the tei-es section may easily 
be propagated by cuttings inserted in sphagnum. Different 
composts may also be prepared, but they must all be lighter than 
the soil in which the established plants grow. Peat, leaf-mould, 
fibrous loam, and sand, when well sifted and mixed in different 
proportions, according to the nature of the plants, form a useful 
material, which can be used for the majority of hard-wooded 
cuttings. Cuttings are sometimes inserted directly into the earth, 
but in this case a kind of bed must have been previously 
prepared after having been turned over and mixed with some 
peat, leaf-mould, or sand to make it lighter. A certain class of 
plants seem to strike and thrive more favourably if they are 
propagated or inserted in ivater. Cyperus is a characteristic 
example, and the well-kno\vn Oleander i^Nerium Oleander) is 
another. 

Insertion of Cuttings. — The insertion, or planting, of the 
cuttings can be executed in various ways. Tropical and sub- 
tropical soft-wooded cuttings may be inserted in beds of the 
above-mentioned composition in the frames of the propagating- 
house. It is advisable, when possible, to plant all the batch of 
cuttings in the same bed, because a more uniform treatment 
can thus be applied. Small and rare cuttings should be inserted 
in pots, pans, and boxes, and placed according to the nature of 
the plants in the propagating- frames or elsewhere. In nurseries 
where bedding-plants are largely propagated for early spring 
planting, shallow boxes are often used. A cutting-bed can be 
arranged without the help of a house. In this case the reader is 
referred to the first section on sowing in this chapter, and is 
advised to make use of the hot-beds under lights there described. 
It should not be forgotten that cleanliness pays, and that good 
drainage is one of the chief points on which success depends. 

In inserting a cutting it is preferable to make a hole with a 
kind of pointed stick, kno\vn as a " dibber (corresponding with 
the size of the cutting), and to place the cutting into it, the soil 
being pressed lightly down to prevent it from moving. If cuttings 
are inserted in pans, pots, or boxes, they will succeed all the 
better if planted all round the edges of the receptacles. If soil 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



957 



is used a thin layer of silver-sand should be spread on the top, 
and a small portion of room left under the edges of the pots or 
pans for water when required. 

It is rather difficult to say to what depth cuttings must be 
inserted, but it can be taken as a rule that the operated notches 
or buds must be inserted at a depth sufficient to keep the plant 
in an upright position. The illustration 
of a Verbena cutting (Fig. 621) shows 
what is required. Another difficult question 
to ahswer is, to what distance apart must 
cuttings be placed ? In this case all 
depends on the nature of the cuttings as to 
size and room. Such cuttings as Fuchsias 
and Chrysanthemums may be inserted lin. 
apart, while some others, such as Cyano- 
phyllums, which possess ample leaves, 
could not be inserted so closely. It is 
advisable not to crowd them ; a certain 
amount of air must be allowed to circu- yig 621 —Soft-wooded 
late between the cuttings, or with the Cutting— Verbena. 
required saturation the rot will soon 

appear, and also what is generally called "damping off," a disease 
due to a specific fungus. 

Another important point is the length of the cuttings. This 
depends on various circumstances ; chiefly on the nature of the 
plant, and also on the number of cuttings required from it. The 
majority of soft-\vooded cuttings do not exceed 3in., and they 
can without inconvenience be cut much shorter ; but for ample- 
foliaged plants the above length cannot be taken as a rule. 
Fiais e/astica, for instance, roots quite freely when propa- 
gated by terminal cuttings, varying, according .to the health 
of the growth, from 4in. to Sin. Several Melastomacece {e.g., 
Cyanophyllums) may also be mentioned. It is exactly the same 
with the hard-wooded section, many examples of which could 
be given. Eye-cuttings, as employed in the propagation of grape- 
vines, do not exceed 4in., and cuttings of several of our out- 
door fruit-trees vary exceedingly. 

When to Take Cuttings. — Cuttings may be taken all the year 
round, according to the nature of the plants and to the conditions 
under which they are kept. Many of our soft-wooded plants 
which are required during the summer months are propagated 
in the winter, but it may be taken as a rule that cuttings strike 
better in the spring than at any other time. If soft-wooded 
plants are required in the spring they must be propagated in the 
autumn. Deciduous plants are chiefly propagated about the end 
of the summer, enabling them to make their roots before the 
frost. Hard-wooded ones strike successfully in the autumn, and 
begin to grow with the early spring. The time of propagation 




958 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



may 
the 



be so arranged that the plant may be had in flower, or 
egetable ready for use, by the time it is required. 

Methods of Cutting. — Terminal Cuttings of soft- and hard- 
wooded plants are the best; and, as long as these are available, no 

others should be used, for they have 
the great advantage of growing much 
quicker, having only roots to make. 
This remark applies to both the soft- 
and the hard-wooded species. Some 
plants {Coffea, for example) are nearly 
always propagated by terminal cuttings, 
for if lateral branches have been selected, 
they ve^y seldom give rise to a head 
growth. This is also the case with 
several ConifercB {Araucaria excelsa, for 
example), which can only be successfully 
increased by this mode. Fig. 622 show^s 
a cutting of Eiionymiis japoniciis made 
from the terminal shoot of a branch 
and ready for insertion. It is sometimes 
necessary to remove the bottom leaves 
of a cutting, chiefly in the case of soft- 




FiG. 622. — Hakd-wooded 
Cutting of Euonymus 
japonicus. 



them 



o 



m 

be 
be 
the 



wooded plants, as this enables 
be more easily inserted. 

This mode of cutting, which is, 
reality, a herbaceous cutting, could, without any difficulty, 
divided into several groups. . First, for plants which can 
propagated with growing growth not fully developed, as is 
case with Allamandas, Medinellas, Ixoras, &c., cuttings of which, 
when placed in a close heat, root very quickly; secondly, for 
plants requiring for propagation a fully developed and herbaceous 
wood, which also need to be treated in a 
very close temperature, for the action of air 
them very easily (as examples, the 
Theobroma [Cocoa Tree], Coiiroiipita 
&c., may be mentioned); and, 
plants such as Nepenthes, which 
are more successfully propagated with growing 
than with ripened w^ood. 

Eye-Cuttings are generally used in the propa- 
gation of the vine. The method consists in 
removing a part containing one eye from a 
previous year's wood, which must be cut as 
shown in Fig. 623. Such cuttings vary in length 
from lin. to 3in. ; they should be inserted 
separately in small pots or in pans, but in the 
rooted, they must be potted up. Fig. 624 
eye-cuttings root and start when placed on 



will mjure 
well-known 
guyanensis, 
thirdly, for 




■IG. 



623. — Vine 
Eye. 



strong 



latter case, when 
shows how the 
bottom-heat. 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



959 



Stem-Cuttings. — Plants possessing endogenous stems {e.g.^ 
Cordylines, or Dracaenas, Arundos, and several Aroids) are 
easily propagated by stem-cuttings. If the stem is provided with 
leaves each portion may be inserted 
as a terminal cutting ; if not, the 
stem will have to be cut into pieces, 
and these placed as near together as 
possible in pans or boxes in a very 
sand)^ compost, with strong bottom- 
heat and permanent saturation. A 
quantity of young growths will soon 
appear from the buds, or eyes, which 
were at the base ' of the leaves. 
Strong-growing buds should be cut 
off and propagated again as cuttings, 
and this will greatly increase their 
strength. Others can be removed, 
potted up separately in small pots, 
and placed in 
heat. 

Leaf- Cuttings. — 
Many plants can be 
rapidly increased 
by leaf-cuttings, and 
these have the great 
advantage of repro- 
ducing exactly the 
parent plants if 
placed under suit- 
able conditions re- 
gard] ng heat, 
moisture, &c. The 
leaves root very 

quickly, but require a certain amount of time before they make 
a head which enables them to grow. This m.ode of repro- 
duction is almost daily used by growers of Gesneracece and 
BegoniacecE, who fix most of their new varieties by this method. 
Many other plants also succeed very well if thus increased — 
Hemionitis palmata and Streptocarpus for example. 

The leaves are laid on a kind of light bed previously prepared 
(sand is often used), and well secured with pegs. Several plants 
can be obtained from a single leaf by making incisions where 
the young ones are wanted. Such subjects as Begonias, Bryo- 
phyllums, and Phyllagathis rotundifoiia, do not require a perfect 
leaf ; a small part possessing some veins will soon give rise to a 
healthy plant. Leaf-cuttings must be nearly always shaded 
until the time when the young plants are established, and water 
must be applied with great care, or damping off may result. 




Fig. 624. — Vine Eye Started. 



960 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



When sufficiently rooted, the plants can be potted up separately, 
and not kept too wet until roots are to be seen under or in the pot. 

Root-Cuttings have been partly described under " Division." 
Many plants can be propagated by divisions, or cuttings, of their 
underground parts. Ordinary roots, as found in Bouvardia, are 

useful for propagation. Yuccas 
afford us another striking 
example of the present mode 
of reproduction. If the thick 
fleshy roots are cut into 
pieces and inserted in beds 
of sand on a good bottom- 
heat they will soon grow, 
making as many young plants 
as the number of pieces 
inserted. Fig. 625 illustrates 
a young plant of Yucca de- 
veloped from a root-cutting. 
When the plants are first 
potted up they require a 
lighter soil than that in which 
the established plants thrive. 

Heel-Cuttings are mostly 
used for propagating hard- 
wooded plants (trees or 
shrubs). They are obtained 
by taking the cutting pro- 
vided with a small part of 
the stem, or old wood. 
Euonymus and Roses are 
often thus propagated ; but 
in this case wood of the 
current year is used. Many 
fruit-trees and shrubs are 
also propagated by this 




means. Heel-cuttings vary 
in length from 6in. to 8in., 



6in. 

or sometmies more. 



Cuttings in Water. — As 
Fig. 625.— Young Plant of Yucca, previously stated, cuttings 

may be inserted in water in 
various ways — in bottles for single cuttings, or in tanks for 
plants such as Cyperus, which when cut are left floating on 
the water. A quantity of eyes soon spring from the leaves, 
and the roots grow rapidly in the water. When well rooted, 
the plants may be potted up in a very light soil and kept in a 
state of permanent saturation which will help them to recover 
from the change. 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 96 1 

General Care, — Cuttings require a certain amount of practical 
care from the operator. Heat is required according to the 
nature of the plant to be propagated, but it must be kept 
uniform, no fluctuation being allowed. Cuttings of any kind 
must always be kept in the shade ; those of exotic plants are 
mostly placed on bottom-heat in the frames of the propagating- 
house, which must always be kept in a suitable degree of 
moisture. No drying up should be allowed, as it will cause the 
cutting to "flag," or "droop," and probably die. As previously 
mentioned, for propagation on a very small scale, cuttings "may 
be inserted in pots or pans, covered with a bell-glass, and kept 
in a suitable house. Attention must be given daily, removing 
all decayed parts to prevent them from spreading. The lights, or 
bell-glasses used should also be carefully sponged every day to 
remove all drip. 

Treatment after Rooting. — As soon as cuttings have rooted, 
they must be "weaned" by potting them up in small pots, 
according to the strength of the subjects and their future 
development. After being potted, the plants should be replaced 
for a few days under similar conditions regarding heat, &c. Air 
must be gradually admitted, and when roots are to be seen at 
the bottom of the pot the plants should be removed from the 
propagating-house. Shading must be carefully looked after as 
in the case of cuttings, and as soon as the plants are strong 
enough to thrive by themselves they can be treated as fully- 
established ones. 

Large foliage plants, such as Cyanophyllums and Sphserogynes, 
must not be removed so quickly, and it is preferable in many 
cases, if the house intended for their culture is not close enough, 
to keep them until they have been repotted twice, and they are 
sufficiently well rooted to stand the unavoidable fluctuations of the 
said house. Such plants as Begonias and Dracsenas may leave the 
house as soon as they are potted up ; so also may many others, 
such as Alternantheras, Achyranthes, Coleus, Lantanas, &c., 
which, as they are required for the ornamentation of our gardens 
during the summer, must be treated in such a way as to enable 
them to stand the outside temperature. This is easily managed 
by gradually getting the young plants used to a lower tempe- 
rature. 

Many of the hard-wooded section are propagated under frames 
outside ; they do not present any difficulties as regards 
"weaning," on account of their hardiness. 

A certain class of plants and trees cannot be reproduced by 
herbaceous cuttings ; only well-ripened wood, which has lost all 
its herbaceous appearance, can be used. Cassia floribunda and 
several Araliacece have to be thus treated. Many hardy shrubs 
are best propagated by this means, e.g.^ Lilacs, Privet, Roses, 
Gooseberries, Currants, &c. Some other plants seem to strike 

3 Q 



962 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



more freely from old wood, as is the case with Rhopala corco- 
vadensis^ &c. Branches three or four years old will root quite 
as successfully as herbaceous cuttings for soft-wooded ones. 

Grafting. 

Grafting was well described by AI. Baltet, a well-known 
French author, as " The triumph of Art over Nature." If it is 
the most artificial mode of propagation, it is nevertheless one of 
the most useful ; and to this art we owe the acclimatisation of 
many of our fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs. It is well 
known that some trees will not thrive on their own roots in a 
certain ground, but if grafted on suitable stocks they will thrive 
admirably. Grafts also are most useful in the propagation of 
fruit-trees, chiefly those raised from seeds and which would 
otherwise require several years before bearing fruits, whereas 
if grafted they are brought into bearing condition in a much 
shorter time. 

A graft is a living part of a plant, tree, or shrub, which has 
been entirely removed, and cut in such a way as to make it fit 
into a recess made in the stock plant, when the two parts (the 
graft, or scion, and the stock plant) will unite if analogy between 
them exists, and the stock will supply nourishment to the scion. 
Analogy in this case may be described as follows : the scion 
and stock should belong at least to the same order, so that 
the similarity required will be found. Even if the stock 
belong to another tribe, the analogy or natural affinity will be 
quite sufficient. Grafting is not only employed in propagation, 
but is also very useful in the fixing of variations or sports which 
would perhaps not be truly reproduced by seeds or cuttings, 
such as variegated leaves, double flowers, &c., and in the 
renovation of old fruit-trees. Like cutting and layering, grafting 
always reproduces the typical plant without any modification ; 
and this result cannot be secured with seeds. 

Selection of Stocks. — A first necessity is to select for stock 
a good growing plant, well rooted, free from disease, and 
capable of reaching the same development as the plant from 
which the graft, or scion, is taken, so that it will be capable 
of feeding the latter at any time. Without this precaution the 
graft would probably exhaust the stock, and this would after- 
wards prove detrimental to the plant. For certain purposes, the 
practice usually followed is to graft a strong-growing species or 
variety on to a small, weak-growing one, as in the case of 
Apples and Pears when dwarf bushes are required. Several 
other things have to be taken in consideration in the selection 
of stocks, for in many cases stock and scion have to be of 
the same dimensions. In regard to trees and shrubs the nature 
of the soil must also be taken into account. 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



Season. — Grafting is practicable nearly all the year round, 
everything depending on the nature of the plants and on the 
kind of graft to be used. In most cases it is performed 
when the sap is "in function" — that is to say, in the spring, 
just when it starts, and at the end of the summer, just before 
it finishes. The summer graft is not to be recommended, 
because the sap is then too full of activity. If grafting is 
done in the autumn with ligneous branches, preference must 
be given to well-ripened wood of the current year, which must 
be lised as soon as the branches have been cut. Should the 
grafts have to be transplanted, all the leaves must be removed, 
and the portion which has been cut may be fixed in a potato 
or beetroot, which must be kept moist and in a position where 
air will not reach them. When grafting is done in the spring, it 
is often noticed that the branches of deciduous trees or shrubs 
begin to grow, which is very detrimental to their welfare. To 
prevent this it is advisable to cut off the required parts 
or branches during the winter, and to plant them in a shady 
place, where they will also be protected from sharp frosts. 
For exotics with ligneous branches that have to be grafted, no 
particular period can be mentioned, but preference is given 
to the spring or autumn. All the herbaceous grafts, and also 
the evergreen ones, require a greater amount of precaution than 
any of the others above-mentioned, and herbaceous grafts must, 
during their propagating period, be kept in a closer tempera- 
ture, and in a place where they are less likely to be affected by 
air than would be the case normally. It is advisable, when such 
plants have to be grafted, to grow the stocks in small pots, so 
that when the operation has been satisfactorily performed they 
can easily be placed in frames under lights or bell-glasses in a 
house, for grafts succeed much better when they are entirely 
deprived of air. Grafting has been divided into over one hundred 
different classes, each with its own apphcation, but in many 
instances the variation between these separate classes is very 
slight. It would not be of interest to describe all, but half-a- 
dozen of the principal methods are dealt with. 

Whip- or Tongue-Grafting is of general value, and can be 
used for the propagation of a great number of fruit and orna- 
mental trees and shrubs, e.g., Ceratoiiia, Castanea (Chestnut), 
Anona, Euonymus, Magnolia, Negundo, Citrus (Orange Tree), 
Fassiflora, Tacsonia, Tilia, Liriodend^-ou, Rhamniis, and Arbutus. 
The stock and graft should be as near as possible of the same 
dimensions, and Fig. 626 will enable anyone to understand the 
description. On the left, a shows the stock which can be 
potted up in regard to small subjects ; b, in the middle, shows 
the scion ; and c, on the right, shows the graft executed. Both 
parts (stock and scion) should be cut alike, but reversed, as 
shown in the illustration. The scion (b) must be cut from d to e, 

3 Q 2 



964 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 




and a small tongue must 
afterwards be removed 
(see /). If the other is 
treated in the same way, 
the cuts will fit, and 
the two barks will thus 
be placed in contact 
with one another, and 
will soon be united. If 
in some cases the stock 
has a larger diameter, 
the scion can be put 
on one end of it, and 
the two barks will soon 
be joined. Tying is 
necessary to fix parts 
together, and clay and 
grafting-wax are often 
used to prevent air or 
sun from reaching the 
cuts. 

Saddle - Grafting. — 
For this method (shown 
in Figs. 627 and 628) 
the stock and scion 
should be of equal thickness. The stock must be cut to 
shape like a wedge, and the scion 
split or cut up in such a way as to 
fit exactly on ' the top of the stock. 
Great care must be taken to see that 
the opening in the scion does not 
exceed the length of the wedge. This 
method of grafting generally requires 
young growing wood. When bound 
together, care must be taken not to 
compress the outer bark. This method 
is widely adopted in the propagation 
of Camellias, Rhododendrons, &c., and 
when dwarf-flowering plants are required. 

Wedge-Grafting is carried out on 
the same principle as saddle - grafting 
except that the cut is reversed. 

Grafting by Approach is the most 
natural method ; indeed, it has been 
found under natural conditions. It was lHi!fi!lli!^ 
very much used about the middle of p^^^ 627 and 628- 

the present century, and is still in _ Saddle-Grafting. 



Fig. 626. — Whip- or Tongue-Grafting. 




ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



vogue, chiefly in the propagation of the Vine. The most 
favourable time to operate is the spring or the end of summer, 
when the sap is in steady 
motion. If the scion has been 
grown in a pot, it can easily 
be fixed at any desired place, 
as shown at Fig. 629. The 
operation consists in removing 
a small portion of bark from 
both subjects, so that the two 
opefted parts, when placed to- 
gether, effect a junction ; a well- 
fixed ligature is also necessary 
for this. 

Herbaceous Grafting may 
be divided into two distinct 
classes, viz., herbaceous grafts 
on roots or underground parts, 
as in the propagation of 
Clematis, Roses, Dahlias, &c., 
and herbaceous grafts above 
ground, by which a quantity 
of CoiiifercB may be propagated. 
Potatoes, Melons, Cucumbers, 
Tomatoes, &c., may also be 
grafted by this means. 

On Roots. — This method 
is very useful for Clematis, Fig. 629.— Grafting by Approach. 
Dahlias, and many other 

plants, but can only be performed with branches grown 
and protected from the direct action of air. The roots, or 
stocks, must be perfectly healthy and not too long. We may 
mention as an example that this method is applied to Dahlias, 
and to many exotics — as several Araliaeece and Coffea (Coffee 
Tree), &c. It requires to be performed in a propagating-house, 
and the best time for the operation is from January to May, 
having previously started the plants selected to bear the scions. 
As regards Dahlias, strong, vigorous roots from any free-growing 
sort must be selected ; the top part should be cut horizontally, 
and on one side an incision must be made crossways in the form 
of a V- The herbaceous scion varies from 2in. to 3in. in length, 
and is taken from the plants above-mentioned, and cut in 
such a way as to exactly fill the V'^^^P^^ incision. If the 
cuts are well performed, no ligature is required, grafting - wax 
being sufficient. The grafted roots must be potted up or planted 
in beds in a suitable compost, and kept under lights, thus 
enabling them to unite and grow. An eye must always be 
reserved on the outside portion, at the base of the scion, or graft. 





9^6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Above Ground. — -In herbaceous grafting above ground both 
stock and scion must be in a herbaceous state — that is to say, 
both parts must be still in the process of formation. One of the 
chief advantages of this method of grafting is that the union is 
nearly sure and extremely quick. In the present case more than 
in any other the cut must be perfectly clean, and on account of 
the herbaceous state of the grafts, they must be protected from 
the direct rays of the sun until the union is perfect. A ligature is 
required, but it must not be too tight, and the portion operated on 
must also be covered with grafting-wax. It is preferable to keep 
these grafts in a closer temperature, under lights if possible. If 
they have to be made in the open, a bell-glass may be used as 
protection. The middle of the summer is a good season for this 
method of grafting ; but the time depends a great deal on the 
nature of the plant, and more or less on its state of growth. In 
the case of Conifers this kind of graft has several great advan- 
tages, for, owing to its mucilaginous nature, the sap is not 
subject to evaporation, and this allows the graft to be done in 
the open successfully ; the union in this case does not require 
more than a month. Many exotics are thus increased, as 
Allamandas, Clerodendrons, Hibiscus, Pavettas, (S:c. 

Half-Cleft Grafting. — Far superior to the ordinary cleft- 
grafting is the present method, which is now largely used 
in nurseries for the propagation of many plants. Azalea itidica — 
so well cultivated in Belgium, France, and Germany — is grafted 
by this means. Stocks should if possible be potted up and well 
rooted before operating. The head of the stock must be entirely 
removed, being cut just above the axil of a leaf. An incision 
must be made on one side of the stock, reaching the inner bark. 
The scion, selected from a current year's growth, must be cut 

in a pointed shape (^), and then inserted in the vertical cut 
previously made in the stock. A ligature is necessary, but if the 
operation is performed in a house no grafting-wax is needed ; the 
grafts only require to be kept in a closer temperature for a few^ 
days. The union is sometimes perfect in less than a fortnight. 
All shoots thrown up from the stock must be immediately removed. 
This method is successfully employed in the propagation of 
Azaleas, Daphnes, Hibiscus, &c. 

Side-Grafting. — Of all the methods known and described the 
side graft is certainly the simplest and the easiest to execute, 
and it ought to be more generally used on account of its 
great advantages. The stock and scion must be of the same size 
and shape, but the incisions reversed, so that the cuts cover each 
other. The stock must be well rooted, especially if grown in a 
pot, and the scion must be of the same year's growth. This 
method is successfully performed early in the year, when the buds, 
or eyes, are in a dormant state. If the graft has to be effected 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



967 



outside, the stock may be cut just at the ground-level in an 
oblique way, varying in length, according to the size of the stock, 
from lin. to 2in. An eye should be saved at the back of the 
cut, which will cause the sap to flow up. The selected branch, 
or scion, must also be cut obliquely to a length corresponding 
with the one made on the stock, and then the two operated 
parts must be joined together. If the scion does not properly 
cover the stock, the cuts must be joined in such a way that the 
barks will touch each other at least on one side. The scion 
varies^ in length : in the case of Lilacs, for instance, three eyes 
are generally kept, one on the back of the cut and two on the 
top. Binding is also required, and it must not be removed 
before a perfect union has been effected. This method applies 
chiefly to Lilacs, Apricots, and Currants. 

General Management of Grafts. — The treatment necessary 
for the success of the grafts is very varied, and depends on 
different circumstances — the nature of the subjects, the time of 
the year when the operation is performed, <S:c. In the case of 
outdoor operations, it is always preferable to use grafting-wax 
over the ligature, thus making it air-tight. Grafts requiring 
protection, such as the majority of the herbaceous and ligneous 
ones, must be kept in frames under lights in the propagating- 
house. They do not require bottom-heat, like cuttings : they 
only need to be kept at a uniform temperature, and to be 
deprived of air until the union is perfect. The atmosphere 
in which the plants are kept must not be either too moist or 
too dry. In the latter case the scion may dry up before being 
united ; and in the former the excess of humidity may excite the 
sap, thus making it flow too vigorously. 

The disposition of grafts in the frames may also be men- 
tioned. When the grafts are too big to stand upright they 
can be placed on one side or even in an oblique position close 
to one another. In this case the operated part must be placed 
on the top, allowing the drips to come down without remaining 
on the cuts. If the grafts can be kept in an upright position, 
the part which has been operated upon must be placed in the 
front, thus enabling the operator to watch the progress of the 
union. 

When the grafted plants require watering, care should be 
taken not to moisten the cuts, and as. evaporation is bound to 
produce a certain amount of condensation on the glass, it is 
advisable to remove this with a sponge every morning. Shading 
must be well observed. In large nurseries, where grafting is 
undertaken on a very large scale, straw and matting are used ; 
sheets of paper may also be placed on the lights. 

Treatment after Union. — When the union is effected, and 
both parts are perfectly united, air must be gradually admitted 



968 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



to prevent them from making weak growth. Sun becomes 
necessary, and should also be carefully admitted. Great care 
must be taken in regard to suckers thrown up by vigorous 
stocks, for if these are left they will soon make headway, taking 
all nourishment away from the scion. The best way is to 
remove all eyes along the stocks as soon as the union has 
succeeded. The grafted plants can then be removed, and they 
will become gradually strong enough to thrive as established 
plants; the ligature can then be taken off, but not that of the 
grafts covered with grafting-wax. 

Stakes are often necessary to strengthen the subject, securing 
it from rough treatment ; for even if the union appears perfect 
so far as the outer bark is concerned, in the case of young 
grafts they easily break off. When they begin to grow they 
should be pinched up according to the form required. 

Raising of Stocks. — Stocks are always selected from vigorous 
growing species, and their raising is an important point. In 
some cases wild species are preferred ; in others the stock plants 
are raised from seeds, cuttings, or layers, all depending on the 
most successful mode of reproduction under which they can 
be increased. 

Budding-. 

Budding is a kind of graft differing from others because, 
instead of using branches as scions, buds, or eyes, are employed. 
It answers the same purposes as grafting, but many trees and 
shrubs are more advantageously propagated by this means. Many 
ornamental trees and shrubs are propagated by budding — e.g., 
Roses, and many other plants which are used daily in the 
decoration of our gardens. Acers, Chestnuts, Elms, Rhododen- 
drons, Hollies, (Sic, are often propagated by this means. As 
indicated, budding can be applied with success to both 
deciduous and evergreen plants, and many fruit-trees are thus 
increased — e.g., Peaches, Apricots, and Apples. 

By this means of propagation a large number of plants can 
quickly be obtained from only one scion. ' In many instances as 
many as half-a-dozen buds, or eyes, can be obtained from one 
shoot. Delicate subjects are also strengthened by being budded 
on more vigorous stocks. Finer fruits and flowers are often 
obtained in a much shorter time than in the case of plants raised 
from seeds or cuttings. Often, also, it is noticeable that a plant 
which will not grow out of doors, or if it does grow, will perhaps 
not bear fruit, will, if grafted or budded on the stock of a hardier 
species (observing, as for grafts, the natural classification of plants), 
flower and fruit plentifully. Buds succeed, or " take," much more 
readily than grafts, and have the great advantage of making a 
firmer union. 



ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



969 



Period of Budding. — Generally • speaking, the middle of 
summer (July) is the best time for budding, but the operator 
must partly depend on his own judgment, for there are many 
influences to take into consideration as regards the fitness of the 
buds and the condition of the stocks. Buds, or eyes, should be 
taken when they are well developed in the axils of the leaves, 
and when the bark pares easily from the wood, both in the case 
of the scion and in that of the stock, for unless this is the case 
the buds will be quite useless. The operation is preferably 
performed during the morning or afternoon, when the sun is not 
too powerful, dull weather being best but it should never be 
undertaken directly after rain, when water can still be seen on the 
shoots, for if done then foreign matters can easily get into the 
cut, and will ruin the bud at once. Should the weather be 
very dry at the date fixed for grafting, and the sap be prevented 
from flowing freely in either the stock or the scion, it is advis- 
able to give them a copious watering a night or two before 
operatin.sj, and this should be continued afterwards until the rain 
again falls. 

There are many methods of budding, but when well performed 
all give the same result if both bud and stock are in suitable 
condition. 

"T"-BuDDiNG is the method generally employed, and the one 
that is here recommended for its simplicity and value. Several 
other names have been applied to it, but all mean the same 
thing. The shoots, or branches, from which the buds, or eyes, 
are to be removed must be of the current year's growth, pre- 
ference being given to those which are firm and well ripened. 
First, all the leaves must be removed, leaving only the petiole, 
or stalk ; then the bark must be cut ^in. above the eye and 
cut downwards through the wood to ^in. below, and the thumb- 
nail of the right hand inserted between the wood and the bark. 
The wood must then be removed by a sharp jerk, and the bark 
will by this means have a tapering point at each end. . When 
the wood is removed from the bud, great care must be taken 
to see that the core of it remains, for if the bud, or eye, is 
hollow it will not succeed. A "f-shaped incision must next 
be made in the stock right through the bark, on a shoot 
also of the present season's growth. The transverse cut 
must be made first and then the perpendicular one upwards. 
The handle of the budding-knife must be placed under the bark 
on either side, raising it, and the bud can then be inserted so 
that its bark is clasped by that of the stock. Binding must be 
performed tightly, using strong bass matting or worsted, and the 
cut must be covered from one extremity to the other, leaving an 
opening for the bud, or eye. The binding is intended not only 
to fix the two parts together, but also to exclude air and wet. 
When dealing with plants of special value, it is advisable to 



970 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



cover the h'gature with grafting-wax, leaving, as above-mentioned, 
an opening for the bud. 

Flute-Budding (Fig. 630) is a method occasionally employed, 
but presents a little more difficulty than "f -budding. It consists 

in peehng off a ring of bark from the stock 
just under a terminal bud, or eye, and 
replacing it by a similar ring or cylinder 
provided with a bud or two taken from an 
ordinary scion. It can only be successfully 
performed during the spring. The bud should 
always be placed on a clear portion of the 
stem, free if possible from knots. In the case 
of very choice plants it is advantageous to 
shade the bud, which can easily be done by 
fixing a large leaf over it. 

General Hints. — When budding, a certain 

Fig. 630. Flute- number of shoots of the scion may be pre- 

BuDDiNG. viously prepared and kept in water, but care 

must be taken to dry them perfectly before 
attempting to remove the bud. It is also advisable, if budding 
has to be largely performed, to have the matting or suitable 
worsted already cut into lengths ; this prevents loss of time in the 
closing of the cut. It is on the quick performance of the 
operation that success depends, and by no means should the 
cuts of the bark or the bud be allowed to dry. The buds 
should be taken from the middle of the shoot ; the top ones 
are generally not ripe enough, and those fo.und at the base 
are too ripe and will therefore not succeed or grow so 
readily. 

Treatment after Union.- — -As soon as the union is noticed, 
and the bud begins to swell, it is a first necessity to remove the 
ties before they begin to cut into the bark ; and if the buds 
begin to grow during the same season they should be pinched 
back to within three or four eyes after having been allowed to 
make some growth. The remaining buds will thus be able to 
ripen well before the winter. The time required for a perfect 
union and the first sign of growth varies between a month and 
six weeks. The branches of the stock should be gradually 
reduced, enabling the sap to be sent into the bud as it grows, 
and the following year they may be entirely removed, leaving 
only the shoot of the scion. The latter, after a season of growth, 
should also be shortened, and again the following season, until 
the desired form of bush or tree is obtained. 

Stocks. — The selection of the stock On which the scion is to 
be inserted or budded is a very important item, particularly 
in regard to fruit-trees, for if it is not suitable the result will 
be nil. Stocks also vary a great deal in regard to the soil 




ON PLANT PROPAGATION. 



971 



in which they have to be planted, for some will succeed in one 
kind and not at all in another. 

The following table, &c., has only been roughly compiled to 
show the knowledge required in the selection of stocks, and deals 
only with fruit-trees. 

STOCKS. 



Trees. 


Heavy 
Loamy Sotl. 


Chalky Soil. 


Dry Light Soil. 


t 

Apple. 
Pear. 


Broad-leaved 
Paradise. 

Quince. 


Crab and Paradise. 
Wild Pear. 


Broad-leaved 
Paradise. 

Quince. 


Plum. 


Plum. 


Almond. 


Almond. 


Cherry. 


Wild Cherry. 


Mahaleb. 


Wild Cherry. 



Apples are certainly best budded on the Wild Crab for orchard 
trees. The Broad-leaved Paradise is best for the intermediate 
trees known as half standards or large bushes for dwarfs which 
are always preferable for small gardens. The English stock is 
used, this being a very small variety ; it has also the advantage 
of transmitting its quality to all other kinds budded on it, and 
thus it is successfully used for Espaliers, Pyramids, Cordons, (S:c. 
It should also be noticed that although these trees do not 
produce large quantities of fruit, the quality, colour, and size 
of it is always superior to dwarfs. Pears are advantageously 
budded on the Wild Pear for orchard trees, and mostly on 
the Quince for dwarfs. For Peaches^ Nectarines^ and Apricots 
the Plum stock is generally "used, and preference should always 
be given to the Mussel Plum ; but on light, dry, warm soils 
the Almond may be used with satisfaction. For Cherries wild 
stocks are usually selected, but Pritnus Mahaleb is preferred 
for dwarfs. For Plums, seedling Plum stocks are mostly em- 
ployed, but in warm soils the Almond is preferable. Medlars 
are chiefly budded on the Quince for heavy and wet soils, and 
on the Whitethorn for dry, light ground. Poses : For 
standards these are always budded on the Wild Briar, the 
straight stems of which are collected in the autumn with a 
certain number of roots attached to them. For bushes the 
seedling Briar is preferable, but for light soils the Manetti Rose 
is also often employed, though the latter is objectionable by 
reason of the number of suckers it throws. For indoor cul- 
tivation the seedling Briar stock is always selected. 

Budding is employed for the propagation of a great many 
other plants when it is desired to increase improved varieties 
or variegated forms. For the Mulberry, Walnut, Chestnut, 



972 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Holly, Ash, Lime, &c., stocks of the common species are 
generally used. Stocks may be raised from either seeds, 
layers, or cuttings ; but when they can be obtained seedlings 
are to be preferred. 

The only drawback to propagation by budding or grafting 
is the tendency of the stock to throw up suckers. These 
should be removed directly they appear, for if once allowed 
to make headway they will often cause the death of the 
scion. 




Entrance of Temperate House, Kew^ 



21^— On Fruit 

Trevor Monmouth. Culture. 

Until within a very recent period the national value and 
importance of fruit culture have not received that attention their 
merits warrant. The consequence is that thousands of worth- 
less varieties are occupying ground that could be far more 
remuneratively employed. In the gardens 'of both rich and poor, 
as well as in large and small orchards, this plethora of varieties 
is much in evidence throughout the whole country, and in the 
interests of both producer and consumer of fruit, it is high time 
that cultivators should exercise the greatest care in the selection 
of the varieties they plant, and that those selected are of the 
very best. These remarks apply alike to the private and the 
market grower, as it must be palpable to all that a small collection 
of any kind of fruit in those varieties which are known to possess 
high quality, good appearance, and a fruitful habit, are far 
more satisfactory than a multitude of sorts, many of which are 
practically worthless. In the following pages we shall endeavour 
to indicate which are the best varieties of each kind of fruit, 
both for home consumption and for market purposes, giving 
brief hints on their cultivation on different soils, and their general 
routine management. For convenience of reference, each kind 
of fruit is placed in alphabetical order. 



974 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Apples. 

No fruit is so extensively grown (or even so largely im- 
ported) as the Apple, and it may justly claim the title of. 
" King of British Fruits," being accommodating enough to keep 
practically all the year round, and also growing and fruiting 
more or less freely over the whole of the kingdom. Because of 
its wxU-known success in so many diverse parts of the country, 
some have looked upon the Apple as a tree that will fruit 
almost anywhere, and have acted accordingly by planting it in 
wet, undrained positions more suited to Willows or to Alders. 
The ground for all fruit-trees should be drained if the natural 
drainage is imperfect, especially if the soil is heavy and cold. 
Drainage renders the soil friable, as w^ell as cool in summer and 
and warm in winter. It cannot be too widely known that 
stagnant water is fatal to good results in fruit culture, and 
Apple-trees planted in badly-drained soil become preys to lichen, 
insect, and other pests, until at last they die, never having borne 
as many Apples as would pay for their first cost. 

Circumstances, of course, must determine not only the position 
or aspect, but also the most suitable form of tree, mode of 
planting, and the best varieties for the district. Many gentle- 
men's seats are high and exposed to gales, until forest trees 
that have been planted to give shelter have attained sufficient 
height to break the violence of the wind. In such cases bush 
or dwarf trees are the most suitable ; but if the place is 
already formed and not much exposed to rough wdnds, standard 
trees could be planted in the park or grounds, shrubberies, 
&c., W'here they would produce a charming effect when in 
blossom, and be of great service in filling the fruit-room in 
the autumn. Very much indeed may be accomplished at a 
trifling cost by the employment of fruit-trees to produce effect, 
the only outlay being the purchase and planting of the trees, 
and their protection afterwards from rabbits or cattle. 

In the garden only bush, pyramid, or trained Apple-trees 
ought to be grown. The standards or half-standards are not only 
too large, but they shade too much of the ground, making 
it impossible to grow vegetables near them. The bush is one 
of the best forms of all, as it is of a pleasing shape, and as a 
rule bears good and regular crops. The pyramid is a formal tree, 
and the close pruning necessary to keep it in correct shape is not 
the best mode of obtaining good crops. 'Espaliers produce fine 
handsome fruit, but a number of years is required to make 
well-proportioned trees. The same applies to all the various forms 
of fancy trained trees, and they cannot be recommended for 
general utility. Cordons may, however, be excepted, as they 
may be utilised in many ways, as indicated under their 
heading. 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



975 



The best time to plant all fruit-trees is early in November. If 
the land is heavy, the trees may be placed on the surface, no 
excavation being made, and the roots covered with soil, thus 
forming a mound of soil over the roots, which are all above 
the ground-level. Trees thus planted usually succeed very well 
if properly staked immediately after planting, and mulched for the 
first year with strawy manure. On lighter or warmer land, holes 
should be excavated according to the depth necessary to cover 
the roots ; the sides and bottom, of the hole should be well 
broken to allow water to pass away freely and to permit of the 
roots penetrating into the surrounding soil. Deep-planting 
should be guarded against, as the nearer the roots are to the 
surface, the better for the future welfare of the tree. No time 
ought to be lost in properly securing the tree in position after 
planting, thus preventing any shifting or rocking about by wind, 
which would delay its root-action or establishment. Many grave 
mistakes have been made in planting dwarf and half-standard 
Apple-trees deeply to avoid the expense of staking : such trees 
are seldom, if ever, satisfactory, and it would have been far 
more economical to plant properly, and stake the trees until 
firmly established in their positions. 

Standard Trees. — The country seat of a gentleman can scarcely 
be termed complete without an orchard, and if this is planted 
with first-class sorts it will prove most valuable to the occupier or 
owner by producing good 
crops most years. Sometimes 
climatic influences will destroy 
the greatest promise of fruit 
at the blossoming period ; 
but it must be a bad season 
indeed that will cause all the 
fruit-trees to be barren. Where 
cattle are admitted to the 
orchard it is advisable to have 
all trees with a stem at least 
6ft. from the ground to the 
branches. Immediately after 
planting, the trees ought to 
be securely fastened to stout 
stakes, employing grass bands 
or old pieces of hose-piping 
to prevent the ties from Fig. 631.— Apple Ecklixville 
cutting into the young stems, Seedling. 
and thus injuring them. 

It will also be necessary to protect the trees with wooden or 
iron guards, otherwise sheep, cattle, or ground game will devour 
the bark, and kill every one. If planted as already advised, 
and mulched with strawy manure for a year, little attention is 




976 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



afterwards required beyond the timely removal of all shoots that 
cross or rub against each other, and the cutting away of small 
branches if very congested. It may also be necessary to cut 

back one or more 
shoots that rush 
into growth far 
ahead of others, 
and which if per- 
mitted to grow on 
unchecked would 
throw the tree into 
a bad shape. The 
point to aim at is 
to grow an even 
and well-balanced 
head through which 
a fair amount of 
light and air can 
penetrate, and thus 
mature the wood 
properly. 

On heavy soils 
well, and they also answer in 
Ecklinville Seedlino; 




Fig. 



632. — Apple Xewton Wonder. 



the following varieties succeed very 
cold or somewhat exposed positions. Culinar) 
(Fig. 631), Lord Grosvenor, Improved Keswick Codlin, Hawthorn- 
den, Newton Wonder (Fig. 632), Northern Greening, Dumelow's 
Seedling, Alfriston, Bramley 
Seedhng (Fig. 633), Nancy 
Jackson, Yorkshire Beauty, 
and Tower of Glammis. 
Dessert: Duke of Devon- 
shire, Cockle Pippin, James 
Grieve, W orcester Pear- 
main, King of the Pippins, 
Lemon Pippin, Ashmead's 
Kernel, Lord Burghley, 
Court Pendu Plat, Pear- 
son's Plate, Sturmer Pippin, 
and Egremont Russet. 

On sandy loam or warm 
soils the following are re- 
liable varieties. Culinary : 
Beauty of Kent, Bismarck, 

Blenheim Orange, Bram- Fig. 633.— Apple Bramley Seedling. 




ley's Seedling, Bess Pool, 
Cox's Pomona, Ecklinville 



Seedling, Emperor Alexander, Gas- 



coyne's Scarlet, Golden Noble, Mere de Menage, Newton Wonder 
Peasgood's Nonsuch, Hormead Pearmain, Tyler's Kernel, 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



977 



Warner's King, Wagner, and White Transparent. Dessert: 
Chatley's Kernel, Col. Vaughan, Cox's Orange Pippin, Duchess 
of Gloucester, Ross Nonpareil, Worcester Pearmain, King of 
the Pippins, Quarrenden, Roundway Magnum Bonum, Egremont 
Russet, Wealthy (Fig. 634), and Yellow Ingestre. 

All the above are valuable, either as full or as half-standards 
for planting in orchards, or in parks or shrubberies for ornamental 
purposes. They are likewise suitable for home consumption or 
for the market, and the great majority will produce fruit sufficiently 
large and handsome for the exhibition table. Thirty feet apart 
each way is a suitable 
distance between the 
trees. 

Diuarj or Bush- Trees. 
■ — For the private garden 
or for market purposes 
the dwarf or bush Apple- 
tree is one of the best 
and most profitable 
forms that can be 
planted when worked 
upon the English Para- 
dise stock. The Crab 
is also a good stock on 
light soils, but, taking 
all kinds of soil, 
whether heavy or light, Fig. 634.— Apple Wealthy. 

our experience is 

strongly in favour of the English Paradise for all dwarf- 
growing Apple-trees. Such trees produce heavy crops of large 
handsome fruit if adequately supplied with manure when fruiting, 
and they will continue in a productive state for many years 
when properly managed. It should be remembered that this 
Paradise stock makes a mass of fibrous roots in a limited 
area ; consequently it is essential to success that the trees be 
liberally manured when cropping heavily. When thus treated, 
either in a small garden or in a large plantation, the results 
will be most satisfactory, not only in the good crops of fruit, 
but also in the health and vigour of the trees. 

The following are of proved value, being free bearers and of 
good constitution. Culinary: Beauty of Kent, Belle de Pontoise, 
Bielo Borodawka (new), Bismarck, Byford Wonder, Bramley's 
Seedling, Cardinal, Manks Codlin (a great bearer on all soils), Cox's 
Pomona, Duchess of Oldenburg, Ecklinville Seedling, Gascoyne's 
Scarlet, Golden Noble (Fig. 635), Golden Spire, New Hawthornden, 
Lane's Prince Albert (Fig. 637), Lord Grosvenor, Newton Wonder, 
Peasgood's Nonsuch (Fig. 638), Potts' Seedling, Queen Caroline, 
Stirling Castle (Fig. 636), Warner's King, and White Transparent. 

3 R 




978 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



mi 



Dessert: Allen's Everlasting, Beauty of Bath, Chatley's Kernel, 
Cox's Orange Pippin (the finest dessert Apple in cultivation). 
Early Peach (new), James Grieve, Lady Sudeley, King of the 

Pippins, Quarrenden, 
Rosemary Russet, 
Sturmer Pippin, and 
Worcester Pearmain. 
All the above will also 
succeed on espalier or 
other forms of trained 
trees, and if well grown, 
and the fruits are stored 
in a suitable room, they 
wnll afford a succession 
of both culinary and 
dessert Apples all the 
year round. Any good 
nurseryman's fruit cata- 
logue will give par- 
ticulars as to season of 
ripening and description 
of the size and colour 
of the fruit. 




Fig. 635. — Apple Golden Noble. 



The pruning of dwarf or restricted trees varies a little 
according to the shape. Taking bush-trees first as the most 
remunerative form, it is 
important to lay a good 
foundation by so regu- 
lating the growth that 
the lower branches are 
strong, well and evenly 
placed on all sides, and 
sufficiently far apart for 
light and air to pass 
through. Any branches 
crossing, rubbing, or grow- 
ing inwards should be 
promptly cut out. The 
centre may be allowed to 
be the highest part, but 
no strictly formal shape is 
either necessary or desir- 
able. The chief object 
ought to be to secure a 
well - balanced head, not 

congested in any part nor yet unnecessarily open, but just 
sufficient to allow the sun to colour the fruit and ripen 
the wood. 




Fig. 636. — Apple Stirling Castle. 



ON FRUIT CULTURE, 



979 




Fig. 637. — Apple Lane's Prince Albert. 



The pyramid-formed tree can scarcely be termed a profitable 
one by its greatest admirers, for though such trees bear a fair 
amount of fruit, yet the pruning and restriction requisite to keep 

them in correct form 
prevent a heavy crop. 
However, in some 
gardens the pyramid is 
planted and trained as 
much for ornament as 
for its fruit, and in 
training the cultivator 
should aim at a straight, 
upright, central stem, on 
which the branches 
taper upwards from a 
broad base to a fine 
point, the whole tree 
being rounded and of 
similar dimensions on 
each side. Any con- 
gestion of wood is best 
removed in summer 
or autumn, as one can 
then see where the growth is too thick. In fact, with bush, 
pyramid, or any other trained Apple-trees, most of the pruning 
may with advantage be 
done at the end of July 
or early in August, cutting 
away all useless shoots to 
within about three or four 
eyes of their base, and, 
in the case of leading or 
other shoots required to 
fill up blank spaces or 
form the tree, permitting 
them to go on unchecked. 
In the autumn — say in 
October— the spurs left at 
the summer pruning may 
with advantage be cut back 
to two eyes ; or, if they 
are very crowded, a few 
could be cut out entirely, 

giving more light and ^3^- — Apple Peasgood's Nonsuch. 

space to those remaining. 

In gardens bush- or pyramid-trees are usually planted round 
the margins of the vegetable quarters and near the gravel walks. 
The distance between the trees may range from 8ft. to 15ft., and 

3 R 2 



980 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



should never be less than 4ft. from the edge of the walk ; in 
fact, they would be better another ift. apart. In almost every 
garden the fruit-trees are planted too near the walks, consequently 
they have to be cut back severely to prevent them from growing 
over the walk, and what would with more room have been 
shapely trees become one-sided. For commercial purposes bush- 
trees are the most suitable and profitable, and though opinions 
differ as to the distance they should be planted, it will be found 
that 9ft. each way is a fair distance, and is recommended by 
several well-known and practical fruit-growers as being the best 
medium between 6ft. and 15ft. apart, the former being too close 
and the latter too far. 

Cordons. — There are a few varieties of Apples that lend 
themselves admirably to the cordon form of tree, annually 



Egremont Russet, Stirling Castle (Fig. 636), and White 
Transparent. 

Cordon trees may be planted 6ft. apart by the sides of walks, 
and trained on wires stretched tightly from each end of the 
walks, the wires being iSin. above the edgings of tile or box. 
If double cordojis are planted — /.(?., with the branch or stem 
running in opposite directions — 1 2ft. apart will be a suitable 
distance. These cordon trees by the .sides of the walks are not 
in the way. They impart a nice appearance to the garden, and 
bear useful crops of fruits. Against walls not otherwise occupied 
cordon Apple-trees may be planted, and as a rule the fruit 
produced thereon has a delicate bloom never seen on x^pples 
that grow away from walls. On low walls the trees may be 
grown at a sharp angle, thus giving a greater length ; but on 



Fig. 639. — Apple Red Winter Reinette 





bearing an excellent crop 
of fruit, and also main- 
taining their good health 
and vigour. Our ex- 
perience is that the 
following varieties may 
be relied upon : Bismarck, 
Improved Keswick Cod- 
lin, Manks Codlin, Cox's 
Pomona, Calville Rouge, 
Cox's Orange Pippin, 
Duchess of Oldenburg, 
Ecklinville Seedling, 
Golden Spire, Grenadier, 
New Hawthornden, 
Lane's Prince Albert, 
Margil, Mother Apple, 
Ross Nonpareil, Worces- 
ter Pearmain, Kerry 
Pippin, Potts' Seedling, 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



981 






Fig. 640. — Apple Allington Pippen. 



high ones they may be trained as upright cordons. i8in. apart 
will be ample for such trees planted against walls. 

The pruning of cordons is a simple operation : it consists 
really of allowing the leading 
shoot to go on unchecked 
until it has filled its allotted 
space, pruning all side shoots 
in to three or four eyes at 
the end of July, and then 
pruning back again to two 
eyes "in the autumn. The 
stock should be the English 
Paradise ; if the Crab or free 
stock were used, gross wood 
in profusion and little if any 
fruit would be the result. 

Apples for -Exhibitioii. — 
Fruit-exhibitors have done 
much towards the improve- 
ment of Apple culture, and 
have also fired many amateur 
and professional gardeners 
with a desire to become 

successful growers and competitors at fruit-shows. The bush 
or cordon tree is the best to plant for this purpose, as it 

commences to fruit quickly, 
- the fruit can be thinned 

when there is a heavy 
crop, insect foes are more 
easily combated, and, if 
necessary, the roots can 
be supplied with liquid, 
chemical, or farmyard 
* manures to assist in 

swelling the fruit to a large 
size. 

The following twenty- 
four varieties of culinary 
and twelve sorts of dessert 
Apples will be a good 
selection for exhibition, 
being of good form, hand- 
some, and nearly always 
found in prize collections. 
Culinary : Beauty of Kent, 
Bismarck, Bramley's Seedling 




Fig. 641. — Apple Blue Pearmatn, 



Belle Dubois, Belle de Pontoise, 



Cox's Pomona, Ecklinville Seedling, Gascoyne's Scarlet, Golden 



Noble, 



Hambling's 



Seedling, Lane's Prince Albert (Fig. 637), 



982 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



New Hawthornden, Newton Wonder, Peasgood's Nonsuch 
(Fig. 638), Bow Hill Pippin, Potts' Seedling, Sandringham, 
Stirling Castle, Stone's Apple, Tyler's Kernel, Warner's King, 
Emperor Alexander, Lord Derby, and Yorkshire Beauty. 
Dessert: Beauty of Bath, Chatley's Kernel, Cox's Orange Pippin, 
Duchess of Gloucester, Lady Sudeley, Melon Apple, Mother 
(American), King of the Pippins, Red Astrachan, Ribston 
Pippin, Washington, and Worcester Pearmain. If three other 
good Apples for dessert are wanted : Red Winter Reinette 
(Fig. 639), the new and excellent AUington Pippin (Fig. 640), 
and also the late-keeping Blue Pearmain (Fig. 641). 

Manuriitg. — The proper manuring of Apple-, and, in fact, all 
other fruit-trees, is deserving of far more attention by large and 
small growers, many trees being very inadequately fed. At the 
same time, all manuring should be done judiciously, as it would 
be a grave error to heavily feed trees that are healthy, but not 
bearing a crop. A very safe policy is to manure them liberally 
immediately after they have set a good crop of fruit. The 
stimulant applied may be liquid from cattle-sheds or manure- 
heaps, somewhat diluted if very powerful. Farmyard manure, put 
on as a mulch, is also serviceable ; so are the prepared manures 
sold almost everywhere. Market-growers, however, or others who 
have a large quantity of trees, will find it more economical to 
buy the ingredients separately, and mix them at home. On light 
soils i^cwt. of muriate of potash, 4cwt. of superphosphate, and 
icwt. of sulphate of ammonia, all mixed together, is a good dressing 
for one acre of land planted with Apples. On heavy land 5cwt. 
of bone-meal, or the same quantity of basic slag, is excellent, 
inducing a sturdy growth, a fruitful habit, and large, highly- 
coloured fruit. 

Pests. — Fruit pests are extremely numerous, and corre- 
spondingly destructive. It therefore behoves the man who 
would be successful either as a grower for market or even for 
the home table to be at least acquainted with the chief symptoms 
of attack of the pests, both Animal and Vegetable. All that is 
aimed at here is to briefly deal with the commonest, making an 
individual fruit, as it were, a speciality, leaving the more 
numerous section to be described in the chapter " On Pests 
Generally." The animal pests feed in a great variety of ways. Some 
are easily reached through their food-plant, especially when this 
be fohage ; but those which affect the blossoms are far more 
difficult. Then there are some which feed in the trunks and 
main branches ; others which lay the small shoots under con- 
tribution, or, it may be, the buds or the bark ; while one very 
common species is found alike on branches and roots. 

Apples are amongst the most profitable fruits grown, yet, 
strange to say, they are beset with an extraordinarily large 
number of enemies. Some, like the Winter Moth {Cheimatobia 



t 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 983 

bruniatd), which, by reason of their widespread destructiveness, 
commonness, and the partiah'ty they display for several other trees, 
are fairly well-known ; but there are others, like the Apple Sucker 
\PysIla uiaii), the Pith-Moth {Laverna vinolentella), or the Shot- 
Borer Beetle {Xyleborus dispar), which are still unknown to the 
great majority of Apple cultivators. 

Psylla mail is a relative of the Aphides, and a sucking insect. 
It is iVin. long, and variable as to colour, at one time red, at 
another green, striped or dotted 
with yellow, brown, or brownish- 
red, with a yellow abdomen. The 
insects are active on the wing, 
and are able, moreover, to leap. 
They are found in April, and the 
larvse are wingless, and it is not 
until they are ready to assume 
the pupal state that the rudimentary 
wings are noticed (Fig. 642). These 
insects suck the young, unexpanded 
buds, causing them to decay ; while 
the foliage in bad attacks assumes 
an unnatural yellow colour. Kero 
sene emulsion sprayed on when 
the larvae are hatched out is effec- 
tive, repeating it in a fortnight. 

Laverna vinolentella is a black 
moth, about ^in. in wing- 
expanse, whose caterpillars 
feed on Apple shoots, and 
in certain seasons and dis- 
tricts do an amount of 
damage. These caterpillars 
are pinkish, and are found 
from September onwards 
through spring. Infested 
shoots die away for some 
considerable distance, and 
growers are frequently at 
a loss to account for the 
attack. If the larva is discovered, shoots showing signs of 
drooping should be cut away and burned. 

The Small Ermine Moth iyHyponomeiita padella) is a terrible 
scourge to Apple-trees. The caterpillars are hatched in autumn, 
and remain in that condition through the winter. In spring they 
live in webs (Fig. 643), and thus may be readily destroyed. The 
" nests " should be cut out over a pail containing an insecticide, 
held beneath to catch any insects which attempt to descend. 
Then there is a well-marked distinctive moth known as Figure of 





Fig. 642. — Apple- Sucker, showing : i, 
Larva (magnified 14 diameters) ; 
2, Perfect Insect (magnified 10 
diameters) ; 3, Larva (nat. size) ; 
AND 4, Perfect Insect (nat. size). 



984 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Eight {Diloba ccEruIeocephala), in consequence of its markings on 
the fore-wings. The moth itself is i^in. in wing-expanse, and flies 
in September. The caterpillars emerge in spring, and attack the 
foliage. They are bluish-grey, with a yellow stripe on back, 

and another on 
the side, a 
bluish head, and 
black tubercular 
dots. Spraying 
with Paris Green 
is the best treat- 
ment. 



The other 
animal pests of 
the Apple will be 
found in the 
Chapter " On 
Pests Generally," 
for the reasor^ 
that they do not 
confine their 
attentions to one 
tree or plant. 
They include the 
Lackey Moth, 
Vapourer Moth, 
Winter Moth, 
Codlin Moth, 
Goat Moth, Wood 
Leopard Moth, 
Mottled Umber 
Moth, Aphides, 
American Blight, 
Scales, Sawflies, 
Fruit-Tree Bark 
Beetle, Shot-Borer 
Beetle, Rose 
Chafer, Cock- 
chafer, &c. 

Of vegetable pests of the Apple there are comparatively few^, 
though what they lack numerically they make up for in virulence. 
Canker is the commonest of the fungoid pests, though the 
average gardener seems averse to believe that Nectria ditissima^ 
and not soil influence, is responsible for the very familiar condition 
popularly known as Canker. Dessert Apples of the best kind 
seem to suffer the worst — Cox's Orange Pippin, Blenheim Orange 
(so called), and Ribstone Pippin to wit. N. ditissima is a wound- 
fungus, so that care should be taken not to injure the bark in 




Fig. 643. — Web of Caterpillars of Small 
Ermine Moth. 



ox FRUIT CULTURE. 985 

any way. Frost and hail are frequently responsible for wounds, 
into which the spores of the fungus enter, and in spring the deep 
red perithecia may be seen without the aid of a glass. Trees 
badly affected ought to be uprooted and burned ; while those 
slightly affected may have the injured parts removed, smearing 
the wound with tar. 

Apple Rot {Glceospormm friiciige?iiwi) is possibly known to 
everyone who has eaten apples, though its cause to the majority 
is obscure. The fruits attacked not only have an unsightly ap- 
pearance, but also a nauseous, bitter flavour. Distinct spots may 
be fouiid at a comparatively early stage, though it is not- until 
much later that the brownish, diseased, black-dotted parts are 
noticeable. Potassium sulphide should be sprayed on the trees 
once or twice when the fruit is getting of fair size, by way of pre- 
vention ; while it should be resorted to directly the disease can 
be recognised. Infected fruits should never be stored with sound 
ones, but should be burned, or the whole crop stands a risk of 
being lost. Similarly fallings from trees should be destroyed. 

Apricots. 

In the Open. — Comparatively few people care for the x'Vpricot 
as a dessert fruit, but everyone thoroughly appreciates it for 
preserving, and the supply for that purpose is seldom equal to 
the demand. Unfortunately, there are many places where the 
trees refuse to grow, or in other gardens, even if they make good 
growth, they rarely produce a crop. On the other hand, in some 
districts they thrive splendidly, and annually bear abundant crops 
of really magnificent fruit, with scarcely any attention, trees 
against walls, and even bush-trees, being alike productive. Several 
theories have been propounded as to the causes of success 
or failure — situation, elevation, aspect, climate, &c. — but our 
experience is that soil is the chief factor. There is some 
ingredient in the heavy and light soils on which the xA.pricot is 
a success ; but as to what that particular element is we are at 
present somewhat doubtful. Lime, in some of its many forms, 
is known to be very serviceable ; potash, on light soils, is 
excellent ; magnesia has also been known to prove beneficial \ 
so has nitrogen in the form of nitrate of soda, or sulphate of 
ammonia. Where the trees have not been fruitful, or weak in 
growth, one or even all the above constituents may be tried with 
safety. Gardeners and others can seldom choose their soil ; 
they are obliged to make the best of that at hand, whether 
good, bad, or indifferent. Though all fruit-trees resent stagnant 
moisture about their roots, the Apricot specially dislikes bad 
drainage, and for that reason extra care is desirable in preparing 
the sites, not only in seeing that they are well drained, but also 
on heavy or tenacious soil that the surplus water can pass away 
freely into the drains. "Where there is a good natural drainage, 



986 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



it would be quite useless to go to the expense of adding more, 
and as has been already stated, local conditions should determine 
what is necessary to be done. Old plaster or mortar refuse is 
useful for supplying lime ; and, to keep the soil open and porous, 
wood-ashes, burnt vegetable refuse, roadside scrapings, &c., are all 
excellent for mixing with it and improving its quality for the roots. 
No doubt, the best soil for this fruit is a rich and rather sandy 
loam ; but, even then, a great deal depends on the stock upon 
which the Apricot is worked ; some consider the Brompton stock 
a good one, but as a rule the trees do not attain old age thereon. 
The St. Julien is much better, but it is doubtful if that is so 
suitable on all soils as the Mussel stock, and our experience is 
decidedly in favour of the last-named as producing a healthy and 
fruitful tree. 

In purchasing trees, if any exhibit signs of gumming, they ought 
to be rejected at once, only planting clean and healthy- looking 
trees, that also possess plenty of nice fibrous roots ; long straggling 
roots should be cut back, and any broken pieces taken clean away. 
Planting may be done either in the autumn or in the early 
spring ; the former is much the better season, as trees planted 
at the end of October or early in November become half 
established almost immediately owing to the warmth remaining 
in the soil, and consequently a strong and vigorous start into new 
growth is made in the following spring. As already mentioned 
for Apples, deep planting should be guarded against, and the 
roots evenly distributed only a few inches below the surface, 
putting fine soil over the roots, and then the rougher soil. 
Make all very firm, and apply a mulch of strawy manure or 
litter at once. When trees are planted against walls or wooden 
fences, it is wise not to nail the trees to the wall for some 
time, as the soil settles down a little, and when the tree is 
secured to the wall, it cannot sink with the ground, and is therefore 
partially drawn out of the soil. The distance from tree to tree 
against walls may vary a little according to the height of the 
wall, but as a general rule 20ft. is a fair distance. 

The pruning of Apricot-trees should be done both in summer 
and in autumn ; in fact, they need attention from the time when 
growth commences, in the timely removal of buds or embryo 
shoots which are too numerous or badly placed. With a well- 
formed tree in view, the cultivator ought to study where new 
shoots are wanted and where they are not, selecting the best- 
placed buds to remain and fill the blanks on the wall, and 
rubbing away all those not required to make new shoots or to 
form spurs. Later on in the summer, or towards the middle of 
July, any very gross shoots will be all the better for a check by 
the removal of the point, and all breast-wood may be cut 
back to about four or five eyes or buds ; further, if a few leaves 
that cover or hide the fruit are taken away, the latter will be 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



987 



improved. About the middle or end of September Apricots may 
be finally pruned for the year, shortening back those shoots that 
throw the tree out of balance, and cutting-in all the spurs to two 
or three eyes or buds. It should be impressed upon amateurs 
and others that in young trees the lower branches should be the 
first consideration ; unless these are secured and a good founda- 
tion is laid, a well-shaped tree is an impossibility. No anxiety 
need be felt about the middle filling up : the natural tendency of 
the tree is to do that. When once good side branches have 
been made, attention may be paid to filling up the centre. 

The Apricot being one of the earliest kinds of fruit-trees to 
blossom, it is more subject to damage from frost than many 
otherS; and unless a certain amount of judgment is exercised in 
protecting the blossoms, a fine promise of fruit may be ruined. 
Nothing in the way of coddling is advisable — in fact, protection 
is, to some extent, injurious when the weather is mild. A piece 
of ordinary fish-netting, doubled in thickness and dropped down 
about 2ft. away from the trees on frosty nights, will prevent 
injury. Such material may be looped up on warm days or 
nights, and let down in a few minutes whenever the state of the 
weather renders it necessary. When the fruits have attained the 
size of peas, no further protection is requisite. 

Thinning of the fruit should be done early and gradually if 
the set is a heavy one. All the worst-placed fruits — e.g., those 
facing the wall — are best removed when quite small ; and, when 
the fruits are about the size of hazel-nuts, they ought to be 
finally thinned to 6in. apart each way, of course retaining those 
that are in the best position for light, and employing those 
removed for tarts, &c. 

The following varieties succeed very well on southern or 
western aspects : Frogmore Early, large and very sweet ; Grosse 
Peche, large and of fine flavour; Hemskerk and Kaisha, two 
medium-sized varieties, of good flavour and free bearers ; Shipley, 
another good sort ; and Gloire de Pourtales, a large and pro- 
mising new variety. In the warmer parts of the country Breda 
may be planted as a bush-tree, as it is hardy and prolific. 

Under Glass. — In many parts of the country the Apricot 
cannot be successfully grown outside. Where, however, a cool 
glasshouse or an unheated wall-case is available, very fine Apricots 
may be produced with a minimum of expense and labour. 

Taking a co/d orchard house first, it is better to have established 
trees in pots than trees planted out in prepared borders ; there 
is more labour attached to the former by reason of the daily 
attention necessary in watering, but the trees are more portable 
and fruitful, and if any prove barren they can be placed outside, 
the space inside being filled with other occupants that are 
productive. Under glass the Apricot is impatient of coddling in 
a stuffy atmosphere; what it enjoys is a good pure atmosphere, 



988 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



with plenty of ventilation on all favourable occasions ; in fact, 
air must be admitted as freely as possible when the trees are in 
blossom, otherwise the flowers will not " set," and the fruit will 
be conspicuous by its absence. Forcing, as the word is under- 
stood amongst gardeners, is seldom, if ever, a success with Apricots. 
To ensure good crops the trees should be brought on gradually, 
and no fire-heat employed except to keep out frost. Syringing 
with tepid water once or twice daily in bright w^eather is advisable, 
closing the house with a nice sun-heat in the afternoons. When 
the trees are in blossom, syringing should be discontinued, the 
floors only being damped ; but immediately the fruit is set the 
practice should be resumed. As the young shoots advance those 
growing inwards or badly-placed may be rubbed ofl" ; and as the 
other shoots attain a length of 6in. or Sin. the point should be 
pinched out, repeating the process as often as may be necessary 
during the growing season. In this way sturdy wood, covered 
with fruit-buds, is ensured. Thinning of the fruit should be 
done early, taking care not to over-crop, and feeding the roots, 
weekly with diluted liquid manure. If insect foes appear they 
may be easily ousted by means of XL All Vaporising Insecticide 
without any risk of damage to the trees. 

A very good compost is four-fifths of good fibrous loam 
and one-fifth of old mortar or plaster refuse, broken brick, or 
broken oyster-shells, all w^ell mixed together, and rammed firm in 
the process of potting, and with good and free drainage. Practi- 
cally all the varieties of Apricot answer under pot culture, but 
Breda, Oullin's Early, and Shipley are extra prolific, and the new 
Precoce de Boulbon promises to be a valuable acquisition for 
growing in pots. 

For the imheated wall-case the trees are usually planted out in 
prepared, well-drained borders, not more than 2ft. deep. These 
should be made of fibrous loam, somewhat heavy in character if 
convenient, and with a good proportion of plaster refuse ; chalk, 
wood-ashes, or broken brick should be incorporated to keep the soil 
from becoming impervious to water and air. No manure should 
be applied to the border for a year or two, as it would induce a 
gross growth liable to gum later on ; indeed, as a rule no 
fertilising matter is necessary until the trees commence to fruit 
freely. A mixture of loz. of muriate of potash, 2 0z. of super- 
phosphate, and 20Z. of fine bone-meal to each square yard of 
border will prove an excellent manure if applied w^hen the fruits 
are the size of small peas. Diluted liquid manure from cattle, given 
occasionally, is also advantageous ; but over-feeding must be 
avoided, as that does as much harm as under-feeding. The trees 
may be in the form of cordons or fan-shaped, and the system of 
training and stopping is the same as already described wdth trees 
of that form in the section on " Hardy Fruit." Immediately the 
fruit is gathered, every inducement should be given to the trees 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



989 



to rest by admitting air day and night to the fullest extent, or in 
the case of pot-trees placing them outside if the weather is not 
too continuously wet, which would be liable to cause a late growth. 
However, though too much moisture is injurious, too little is 
equally bad ; just sufficient water is necessary to properly develop 
the buds and mature the wood. The well-known Hemskerk, 
Moorpark, and Kaisha are all suitable for planting out in an un- 
heated wall-case, and with ordinary attention will produce 
satisfactory crops. 

Blackberries. 

Many writers have lauded the American Blackberries as 
worthy of a place in every garden, but unless the seasons 
are very favourable they are seldom worth growing. Many of 
our British sorts are far better bearers in all seasons, and the 
fruit is equally large and of superior flavour to the American 
varieties. However, these are not worth planting except to 
cover waste ground, where little or nothing else will succeed. 
By cutting out all weak and dead wood, and encouraging strong 
growth by an occasional mulch of manure, very fine fruit indeed 
is obtained. 

Cherries. 

In the Open.- — Before planting any kind of Cherry-trees one 
should carefully consider whether the soil is adapted to their culture, 
or if it can be made so by artificial means. When the soil is 
shallow, resting on sandstone, gravel, or chalk, the conditions 
are unfavourable, for though the trees may grow more or less 
freely for a few years, they will eventually be practically certain 
to commence gumming or dying back, and prove a failure. 
Again, if the site is low, damp, or badly drained, it is of little 
use to plant Cherries, and when the land is heavy and resting 
on cold clay many of the Sweet Cherries are unsatisfactory. To 
grow them successfully a well-drained soil is essential, also a 
fairly good elevation, and if the land slopes to the south or 
south-west all the better for the welfare of the trees. No doubt 
a deep loam, varying from a sandy to a moderately heavy cha- 
racter, is the best. Much can be accomplished in unsuitable 
soils by excavating and removing the natural earth and replacing 
it with good fibrous loam. When this is done, it is important 
that the roots should not be permitted to penetrate into uncon- 
genial surroundings ; they should be restricted to the border pre- 
pared for them by the aid of annual mulchings of fresh compost 
and fertilising matter. This applies, specially to trees planted in 
gardens against walls, or as bushes ; and with such it is advisable 
for the planter to order his trees early to enable him to get 
them in at the end of October or early in November. As 
already stated under Apples, this early planting enables the 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



tree to become semi-established at once. The trees are best 
not nailed up to the walls for some time after planting, as this 
will enable them to settle properly in their sites, which is not 
always the case if they are secured to the walls immediately after 
planting. For planting against walls the fan-shaped tree is the 
best form, the distance between the trees varying a little 
according to the character of the soil — if a nice loam, 20ft. apart 
will be none too much space for full development of the trees ; 
if not a very good soil, i6ft. will be plenty, as much less 
growth will be made than on a more suitable soil. 

For the first few years the pruning must be done in such a 
manner as to form a shapely, well-proportioned tree. To this 
end special care is necessary to develop the lower branches first, 
not filling up the middle or centre of the tree until the lower 
and side branches are secured. If this is done, a beautiful tree 
is made, each branch being strong and fruitful. Summer pruning 
is necessary for obtaining good results. At any time during the 
summer, when the young shoots are ift. or so long, they should 
be cut back to about four eyes. Fresh growth will be made 
from the end bud, and this may be pinched back to two or 
three eyes again, repeating the process as often as may be 
requisite by the new growth made. At the end of September or 
early in October it is advisable to cut back the current year's 
wood to about the fourth eye, or where it was cut the first time 
in summer pruning : if cut closer, some of the finest fruit-buds 
will be destroyed. The young wood made at the point of the 
branches should not be cut back when summer pruning, unless 
the tree has filled up all the wall space available : then it would 
be necessary to cut it back, as there would not be room for 
further extension of the branches. 

Sometimes cordon-trees are recommended as being excellent 
for planting against outside walls. In some few places they may 
answer fairly well, but our experience is that they are more 
adapted for culture under glass, and cannot be recommended 
for general outside culture. It is much preferable to plant the 
fan-shaped tree, putting the Morello against North walls, and the 
sweet or dessert varieties in other and more favourable aspects. 
The Morello and a few other varieties succeed admirably on the 
Mahaleb stock, notably May Duke, Late Duke, Empress Eugenie, 
Archduke, Royal Duke, Early Rivers, Emperor Francis, Governor 
Wood, and one or two others of that class. The above list 
includes early, mid-season, and late varieties. May Duke and 
Early Rivers are early, the latter possessing very fine flavour; 
Late Duke and Emperor Francis are late; and the others are 
more of a mid-season character. Opinions differ as to the best 
stock for the Heart, Bigarreau, and Kentish Cherries, but on the 
great majority of soils it will be found that the Cherry stock is 
the best, and the nurserymen nearly always employ it. The 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 99 1 

Heart and Bigarreau Cherries are in many varieties so delicious 
that wall space should be given to a few varieties of proved 
merit, selecting a South or Western aspect if there is any 
choice of position, Frogmore Early Bigarreau is a very early, 
yellowish - red, highly - flavoured variety, ready for use at the 
end of June on a warm wall. Bigarreau Jaboulay is another 
very early sort, with reddish-black fruit of delicious flavour. 
Werder's Black Heart is another grand early Cherry of fine dark 
colour and rich flavour. Later varieties of fine quality are 
Bigarreau Napoleon, Bigarreau Monstreuse de Mezel, Late Black 
Bigarreau, Bigarreau Noir de Schmidt, Guigne de Winckler, and 
the new variety named Windsor. All the above are of exquisite 
flavour, nice colour, and free growers and bearers. 

On soils favourable to Cherry culture bush-trees are very 
productive, and as they are easily protected from birds by nets, 
excellent crops may be obtained without the aid of walls. If 
the trees are on the Mahaleb stock it is essential to feed the roots 
liberally when the bushes are bearing good crops of fruit ; this 
not only maintains the strength of the tree, but it keeps the 
roQts close to the surface, whereas if such is not given the roots 
travel some considerable distance in search of the plant-food 
they require, and frequently run into soil that is injurious to 
the health of the trees, causing gumming or disease in the wood. 
When bush-trees are on the Cherry stock it frequently occurs 
that strong rampant wood is made; and the more this is cut 
back, the stronger becomes the growth, or else "gumming" sets 
in. In such cases it is wise to root-prune the trees, performing 
the work about the middle of October. A trench should be dug 
some 3ft. or so from the main stem, cutting through strong 
roots, working out the soil underneath the ball of roots and soil, 
and cutting through any tap-roots that may be growing straight 
down into the subsoil. When this is done it is advisable to fill 
up the cavity made with fresh soil, with which some lime-rubble 
or bone-meal has been mixed, making the new compost thoroughly 
firm, and applying a mulch of strawy manure immediately after 
the operation is completed. In this way a check is given to the 
gross habit of the tree, and a great formation of fruit-buds is the 
result. Once get the trees to bear a full crop of fruit and it is 
seldom that any further root-pruning is necessary, as the fruit will 
absorb, or rather check, the superabundance of sap and vigour. 

As already stated, the Morello and the Duke class of Cherries 
succeed on the Mahaleb stock, which is adapted for both wall- 
and bush-trees. A few of the Heart section also answer on the 
Mahaleb stock, but nearly all other classes, such as the Bigarreau 
and Kentish kinds, do better on the Cherry stock. All the 
varieties recommended for wall-trees are equally suited for bush- 
trees ; in fact, the majority of varieties in commerce are answer- 
able, providing the instructions already given are carried out. 



992 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Under the section on Apples reference was made to the use 
that might be made of the trees for park or shrubbery orna- 
mentation, and that remark is equally applicable to the Cherry 
where the soil is suitable. If the Wild Chej-ry makes a good 
tree in the neighbourhood it may be taken for granted that the 
better or cultivated varieties will also succeed. I'here are few 
flowering trees so beautiful as the Standard Cherry when in full 
blossom, and for beautifying gentlemen's estates it is infinitely 
superior to many of the deciduous trees planted for effect. The 
following varieties make large trees, and produce large, handsome 
fruit, valuable alike for home use or consumption : Kentish 
Bigarreau (a favourite market variety), Bigarreau Napoleon, Black 
Circassian or Tartarian (a grand old favourite variety). Black 
Eagle, and Elton (probably the best variety for heavy soils). On 
good soils Waterloo is an excellent variety. Of course it will be 
understood that all trees intended for growing as standards are 
worked upon the Cherry stock, as the intention is for them to 
develop into large trees ; for that reason, if planted in clumps, 
they should be about 40ft. apart each way. After planting, 
firmly secure the trees in an upright position by staking and 
guarding against the ties cutting into the young wood and stem : 
much injury may follow neglect in this respect. 

While the Cherry enjoys liberal treatment, the cultivator must 
be guided by the weight of crop and vigour of the tree in 
applying fertilising matter. It should be understood that trees 
can only take up and assimilate a certain amount of food, and 
excessive applications are very apt to cause bad health. When 
trees are bearing heavy crops, or are weak in growth, diluted 
liquid manure or a dressing of farmyard stuff is desirable, but only 
in moderation. The same applies to the prepared manures on 
the market. One of the safest manures for Cherries is bone- 
meal at the rate of 30Z. to the square yard, given just as the 
trees commence growth in spring. 

Under Glass. — In a cool house or case, to which plenty of 
air can be admitted at both top and sides, Cherries are a very 
decided success; and it is rather remarkable that more are not 
cultivated in such structures. The trees fruit abundantly, and the 
fruit also attains a splendid size and a lovely colour, with a 
correspondingly delicious flavour. The cultural requirements are 
much the same as advised for Apricots, viz., no coddling, plenty 
of air, good soil and drainage, with careful attention to watering, 
feeding, and summer pruning (the same as for Apricots). The 
same manure is also suitable, although most of the chemical 
manures advertised by leading makers afford a desirable change 
occasionally. 

For growing under glass, either in pots or planted out in 
borders, we prefer trees worked on the Mahaleb stock ; they 
are moderate in growth, very fruitful, and will continue prolific 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



993 



and healthy for many years, if adequately supplied with plant- 
food. Frequently Aphides, especially Myzus cerasi, infest the 
young shoots and foliage ; but the XL All Insecticide or 
McDougall's fumer will quickly destroy these pests. The syringe 
should be used freely while the trees are growing, except 
when they are in blossom and when the fruit is ripening ; 
this will assist to keep the foliage healthy and clean, and at 
the same time will encourage a sturdy habit. When our trees 
have produced a great mass of flowers we have with good 
effect cut away all the worst-placed with a pair of grape-scissors ; 
the remaining flowers received extra support, and always set 
more freely than on trees not thinned. 

The following sorts are admirably suited for growing under 
glass : Early Rivers, Belle d'Orleans, Bigarreau Jaboulay, Governor 
AVood, Guigne de Louvain, Late Duke, May Duke, Xouvelle 
Royale, Royal Duke, Ronald's Black Heart, and Emperor Francis. 
All of them possess fine flavour, and are abundant bearers as 
pot or other trees. When the fruit is picked, the trees should 
be induced to rest as mentioned under Apricots, never allowing 
them, however, to suffer for want of water at the roots. 

Outside the other animal pests which it is proposed to deal with 
under general headings, there are only two calling for special 
mention. One is the Slug-worm, the larva of a species of Saw- 
fly {Eriocampa limacind). It is about ^in. long, and when mature 
of a dark brown colour. Prior to that it has undergone several 
changes, and in the first stages of that condition it has a most 
disgusting look, owing to its exudation of a black slimy secretion. 
The head is abnormally big, and makes the insect look repulsive. 
When nearly full - fed the slime disappears. The pupa - state is 
passed in an earthen cocoon in the soil, a little below the 
surface. The perfect insect has a black body and transparent 
wings, and is seldom 
recognised. The 
female selects the 
upper surface of the 
foliage for egg- 
deposition, and the 
young larv^ when 
hatched soon reduce 
it to the condition 
shown in Fig. 644. 

Quicklime is the 
best remedy to apply 
in the early morning, repeating it after an interval of a couple 
of days. In very bad attacks the surface-soil may either be 
stirred to expose the pupae, or removed for 4in. or 5 in. and 
buried elsewhere at such a depth that the insects could not 
make their way through. Pears are also attacked by Slug-worms. 

3 s 




Fig. 644. — Leaf with Epidermis Eaten 
BY Slug-worm Larva. 



994 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Chestnuts (Sweet). 

In the Open. — In a few gentlemen's houses these Chestnuts 
are Hked for dessert, or by young people, and when the trees 

acquire age they produce immense 
crops of nuts most years if on good 
soil, and cattle have access to the 
land. The droppings of the cattle 
enrich the soil, and the trees afford 
good shade, which cattle appreciate in 
hot weather. However, on poor soil, 
and also amongst other trees, the 
Sweet or Spanish Chestnut will thrive 
and fruit freely without any atten- 
tion whatever. There are a number 
of species and varieties, the com- 
monest sort being Castanea sativa 
(Fig. 645). Apart from the nuts 
the tree is remarkably handsome, 
and worthy of inclusion in parks 



and ornamental grounds. 
Crabs. 

In the Open. — The Dartmouth 
Crab is probably the best known of 
all these very attractive trees. Its 
large handsome flowers and glowing 
crimson fruit have made it very 
popular for ornamental plantations. 
Though not so well known there 
are many other varieties equally as 
beautiful and fruitful, amongst which 
the following are all excellent : John 
Downie, Fairy x\pple, Malakovna, 
Orange Crab, Paul's Imperial, Scarlet Siberian, Yellow Siberian, 
Transcendent, and the new and lovely weeping variety, Elsie 
Rathke. All the above are most charming when in full blossom, 
and the fruit is useful for making jelly or preserves. The trees 
seem equally at home on most soils, providing they are not water- 
logged, and it must be a very poor ground indeed that will not 
grow these subjects more or less well. 




Fig. 645. — Catkin and Fruit 
OF Spanish Chestnut. 



Currants. 

In the Open.- — Few fruit-bearins; trees or bushes are so 
accommodating as the Currant, the Black, Red, and White kinds 
all growing and fruiting well on almost all sorts of soils, and 
either in the pure air of the country or in the sulphurous 
atmosphere of towns. 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



995 



Black Currants. — Taking the Black Currant first, the ideal soil 
for this is one that is deep, rich, moist, and with sufficient 
drainage to take away all surplus moisture. Other soils,. however, 
will produce very good crops of fine fruit by a little judicious 
management of the soil and situation. For instance, in a garden 
where the soil is naturally hot and dry, owing to its light or 
sandy character, the Black Currant plantation should be in the 
coolest part of the garden, and if somewhat shaded the better, 
giving a mulch of strawy manure every year early in May ; this 
will keep the soil moist and cool during the dry summer months, 
and will assist in swelling the fruit to a large size. If planted 
on very light soils in the full blaze of the sun Black Currants 
are almost certain to fail. On heavier soil, which is of a much 
cooler nature, it is not necessary to select a low or shady position, 
as they will then succeed in almost any position, and may 
be planted wherever convenient. However, before planting the 
soil should be thoroughly cleansed of all noxious weeds, especially 
Convolvulus and Couch Grass. The first cost of doing this may 
be rather heavy, but it is the most economical method, for if 
these tiresome weeds once get established amongst the roots of 
the trees they can only be cleared therefrom by lifting and 
thoroughly cleaning both the roots and the surrounding soil. 
Another point of really great importance is the purchasing of 
plants from a nurseryman who will guarantee his stock free from 
that terrible pest — the Black Currant Mite. Thousands of trees 
are annually ruined by this creature, and proper precautions 
should be exercised that it is not introduced with newly-purchased 
trees. 

As with all other fruit-trees, planting, if possible, is advisable 
at the end of October or early in November, the distance being 
6ft. apart each way. Digging amongst the bushes is done in 
most gardens during the winter, but the system is not one to be 
recommended, as the Black Currant roots freely on the surface, 
and to dig amongst the bushes means cutting through the best 
fibrous roots. The difficulty of keeping weeds down will be 
comparatively easy by means of frequent hoeings in dry weather, 
and the loose surface soil following these repeated hoeings will 
conserve moisture, admit air, and prove highly beneficial to the 
health of the trees. 

The pruning of Black Currants differs from that of the other 
kinds by reason of no spurs being made, but a good supply of 
strong, young wood annually retained, which is not cut back at 
all. In brief, the object is to encourage young wood from the 
lower part of the bush every year, and to cut out a corresponding 
amount of old wood without reducing the size of the bush. 
The pruning may be done at any time after the fruit is all 
picked, as it does not signify whether the trees have lost all 
their foliage or otherwise. All prunings ought to be burnt as 

3 S 2 



996 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



soon as possible, and the ashes returned to the soil. In this 
way many insect eggs, &;c., are destroyed, and the ashes 
serve as a gentle stimulant to root-action. 

The following few varieties are reliable for home use or for 
market requirements : Baldwin's Black {sj?i. Champion), a very 
profuse cropper, large, of fine colour, and very sweet. Lee's 
Prolific, an abundant bearer on good soil; the fruit is large, and 
travels well to market. Black Naples is somewhat later in 
ripening than the above sorts, and is a heavy and continuous 
bearer. Ogden's Black is a very free bearer, and excellent on 
all soils. The well-known Old Black, although a good variety, is 
neither so free in growth nor so prolific as the four sorts 
named above. Some contend that it is never attacked by 
the mite, but we have seen it quite as badly infested as 
any other variety. 

Red Curj-ants are always in a more or less limited demand 
in gardens of every kind, and fortunately they are not 
particular as to the soil or situation, providing no stagnant 
water lodges about the roots. The bush form is that most gene- 
rally adopted for these Currants, and is no doubt the best, as 
heavy crops are obtained with very little trouble. As already 

mentioned, the ground should 
be well dug and cleaned 
prior to planting in the 
autumn, and a few of the 
best varieties only selected. 
Raby Castle is a well-known 
large and prolific variety. 
Comet is a new sort of great 
promise, producing long clus- 
ters of large and very sweet 
berries. Cherry and Red 
Dutch are two varieties with 
large, handsome fruit borne 
in profusion. Chiswick Red 
(Fig. 646) is also a free 
bearer of large, sweet fruit. 

White Currants. — The 
pruning of both Red and 
White Currants is exactly 
the same. In bush-trees it 
consists in having five or 
more branches springing from 
a clean leg or stem (Fig. 
647) ; these branches should be as near as possible equi- 
distant from each other, and all side-shoots forming on the 
branches should be cut back to about four eyes, thus forming 
good fruiting spurs. Where birds are troublesome in taking 




Fig. 646. — Fruiting Branch of 
Chiswick Red Currant. 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



997 



the buds it is* advisable not to prune until spring, otherwise 
every bud will disappear, and a crop will be impossible. 
Both the Red and the White Currant are admirably suited to 
growing as single, double, or treble cordons, and may be 
planted against north or 
other walls. The pruning 
of cordons consists in 
merely cutting in all side- 
shoots at any time during 
the winter. One very de- 
cided advantage of these 
cordon Currants on walls 
is that by means of nets 
they are easily protected 
from birds when the fruit 
is ripe, and if some plan 
is adopted of throwing the 
rain off the trees, really 
plump and delicious Cur- 
rants may be picked up to 
the end of November. If 
the rain fell on the fruit 
it would rot or split, and 
thus fail to keep. 

Cuttings of the young 
wood of Black Currants 
root readily if put in firm, 
sandy soil immediately the 
foliage has all fallen. The 
same remark applies also 
to the Red and White 
varieties, but the cuttings 
are made differently. In 

the case of Blacks none of the lower buds are removed, as it is 
always an advantage to have young wood annually starting from 
the base. With Reds and Whites the conditions are altered, 
as it would be undesirable to thus have young wood continually 
springing up ; therefore, in making the cuttings all the lower 
buds are cut out. Supposing the cutting is i5in. or i8in. 
long, only three or four buds are allowed to remain. In this 
w^ay a clean leg or stem is obtained, and if the buds have 
been properly cut out there will be no trouble with young 
shoots springing from the base. In two years the little bushes 
may be planted out in the position they are to permanently 
occupy. 

Currants, and their near relative, the Gooseberry, are attacked 
by several voracious animal pests, of which the most prominent 
are the caterpillars of the Magpie Moth {Abraxas grossu/ariata, 




Fig.. 647. — Correct Method of Pruning 
Red or White Currants. 



998 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Fig. 648) and of the Gooseberry and Currant Sawfly {Nematus 
Ribesii, Fig. 649). Both these occur in spring, and the first- 




FiG. 648. — Perfect Insect, Caterpillar, and Chrysalis of Gooseberry 

Moth. 



named also appears in autumn. Then come the caterpillars of 

the Spinach Moth {Cida?'ia 
dotata, Fig. 650). Spraying 
with Paris Green when the 
fruits are small is the remedy 
to apply, as all are chewing 
insects. Powdered hellebore 
dusted on in the morning 
is also effective. Both are 
virulent poisons. It is not 
advisable to use them when 
the fruit is of a size for 
market or the kitchen. The 
insects are all leaf-feeders. 

Far more difficult to deal 
with, however, are two moths 
whose larvae affect the shoots, 
causing them to droop and 
die. These are the Currant 
AND Clear-wing Moth {Sesia tipuli- 
formis) and the Currant Shoot 
Moth {Lampronia capitella). 
Insecticides are of little use in either case, and certainly not in 
the first. The Lanipronia species also 
attacks the fruits for the sake of the 
seeds contained. Removal of all such 
shoots, and of prematurely-coloured fruits 
on trees known to be infested, would be 
beneficial. 

The greatest pest of all is the Currant- 
Bud Mite {Phytoptiis ridis), which has 
hitherto baffled all the most experienced entomologists to cope with 
its attacks. Black Currants only are infested, and the terminal 




Fig. 649. — Larva of Gooseberry 
Currant Sawfly. 




Ftg. 650. — Spinach Moth. 



ON B^RUIT CULTURE. 



999 



buds are usually oftenest selected. Once the creatures are inside 
they cause (by the irritation set up) the buds to swell abnormally 
(Fig. 651), and such buds may easily be 
detected in late autumn. Here again 
insecticides are of very little avail, and 
hand-picking the galled buds is the 
most practical remedy. Still, if the trees 
could be sprayed during July with kero- 
sene emulsion some good might be done. 

The Hazel Nut is attacked by a 
relative of the Currant-Bud Mite, known 
as P. AvellajicE, and the galled buds 
may be readily seen in winter. These 
two animals have spread over a very 
wide area, the former more particularly. 

Scales and Aphides affect the Currants. 
Methods for dealing with these pests 
will be noted under their headings in 
the Chapter "On Pests Generally." 

Damsons. — See " Plums." 



Figs. 




Fig. 6 



3 1. — Shoot of Cur- 
RAXT Infested by 
Phytoptus ribis. 



In the Open.— It seems strange that 
the Fig has not been more largely grown 
against warm walls in this country, as it 
is quite as hardy as the Peach and 
Nectarine, no more costly to grow^ and 
affords a pleasing change on the table. 
Possibly, one of the causes of neglect has 
been that in many gardens the trees have 

proved barren, and little or no attention has consequently been 
paid to pruning and otherwise keeping them in order. To 
make Fig culture outside really successful, it is essential that 
good drainage be given, as water lodging about the roots is fatal 
to success. Next in importance to good drainage comes a rather 
poor soil. If the trees are planted in rich soil, rampant growth, 
with immense foliage, is made, which seldom matures, and fruit 
is conspicuous by its absence. Lime or plaster refuse mixed 
thoroughly with the soil before planting serves a very useful 
purpose, by not only keeping the soil open and porous, but also 
supplying an element necessary for the fruit. 

Having prepared the soil, there arises the question as to the 
best time to plant. Some strongly advocate autumn planting, 
but, if a severe winter follows, the frost is very hable to seriously 
injure or cripple the tree ; whereas, if planted towards the end 
of March, it has all the summer months to grow and take firm 



lOOO 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



possession of the soil, and is thus infinitely better able to 
withstand frosts. In planting, the soil can scarcely be made too 
firm, and, for that reason, the operation should only be 
performed when the soil is fairly dry and does not stick to the 
tools. If the soil were wet, it would set in one solid mass 
later on, and would prove impenetrable to either roots or moisture. 
Immediately after planting, a thorough soaking of water should 
be given to settle the soil about the roots, and a mulch of litter 
spread over the surface to retain the moisture. During the summer 
months it may be necessary to water the tree again several 
times, and after very hot days a good syringing overhead will be 
very beneficial, as the Fig thoroughly enjoys heat and moisture. 
Neither liquid nor solid manure should be given until the trees 
are cropping ; then one or both forms of manure will be of 
assistance, or, if the smell is objectionable, one or other of the 
odourless prepared manures may be given with advantage. loz. 
to each square surface yard will be sufficient to allow at once, as 
it is better to be on the "weak" side in applying manures. 

In training and pruning the Fig, due allowance should be made 
for the large foliage, and, for that reason, 6in. is none too much 
space to allow between the growing young wood. When each 
shoot has made seven or eight leaves, the point should be pinched 
out : this induces the formation of fruit. In fact, trees that have 
been noted as cumberers of the ground and wall space have been 
turned into most productive and valuable specimens by a 




Fig. 652. — Fig Brown Turkey. 

judicious system of pinching during the growling season. Not 
only is this mode advisable from a fruit-production point of view, 
but it is also much better for the health of the tree, as it 
practically does away with the knife in order to keep the tree 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



lOOI 



in bounds. No fruit-tree is so impatient of the knife as the Fig ; 
it shows its resentment of the same by a kind of canker setting 
in, which sometimes eats nearly through the branches, and often 
causes the death of young wood. When the growth has been so 
regulated that each shoot has sufficient space for proper develop- 
ment, the wood becomes well ripened, and protection in winter 
is neither requisite nor desirable. Our experience is that it is 
only those trees which have had their growth too congested that 
suffer from hard frosts. 

The well-known Brown Turkey (Fig. 652) is a favourite 
variety, because of its hardy and fruitful character; some lovers 
of Figs object to its flavour, but most people consider it good. 
White Marseilles is a splendid variety on warm walls, and is 
superior in quality to the first-named, and a greater bearer. 
Brunswick is a very large variety, of fair quality, hardy, and a 
good bearer in warm positions. The Black, White, and Yellow 
Ischia are all three of most delicious flavour, also good and 
constant growers and croppers. The comparatively new variety, 
St. John's, is proving a good early kind, a free bearer, and 
hardy. 

Figs may be easily propagated by suckers, layers, or cuttings ; 
they quickly take root if placed in gentle bottom-heat just before 
the trees start into new growth. 

Under Glass. — The improvement in Figs grown under glass 
as compared with those from outside, is so very marked that 
many are now devoting special attention to their culture, with 
very gratifying results. Not only is the fruit of delicious flavour, 
but it may be grown easily in houses given up entirely to the 
plants, or with other plants in the orchard-house or similar 
structures, either in pots or planted out. A good fibrous loam, 
with the addition of mortar rubble or broken oyster shells, and 
a 6in. pot full of bone-meal to each barrow-load of loam, forms 
a very good compost indeed. If Figs are planted out, the roots 
should be confined to within a limited area ; otherwise the 
growth will be rampant, with very little fruit. The same remark 
applies to pot-plants ; when repotting, only a small shift should 
be given. The soil should be made firm both in pots and in 
borders. For some time after potting or planting, water must 
be given with caution, and only when really necessary. Later 
on, when the plants are in active growth, copious supplies are 
essential, as the Fig revels in abundant heat and moisture while 
growing. It will, therefore, be apparent, even to the novice, that 
good, free drainage is very important. In prepared borders, ift. 
of broken bricks will be none too much, and in pots the 
drainage also should be liberal. Inverted oyster shells (to 
the depth of 2in. in large pots) make excellent drainage if 
covered with moss to keep them from clogging with soil. 
Opinions differ as to the best time to pot or plant the trees ; 



1O02 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



but, from actual experiments, the finest results were obtained 
from trees planted or potted just before they commenced growth 
in the early months of the year. In borders, made as indicated 
previously, the trees will continue healthy and fruitful for years if 
annually top-dressed with soil and manure. When in pots, once 
in two or three years will be often enough to repot, providing 
the pots are mulched annually with a little fresh soil and manure, 
and are supplied with liquid or chemical manures (not too 
strong) frequently when bearing full crops of fruit. 

In starting Figs into growth, a temperature of 5odeg., with a 
gentle rise during sunshine, is plenty at first. The heat should 
be gradually increased as the growth advances, the plants 
thoroughly syringed twice daily, and the paths and floors kept 
moist. This treatment will suit the plants admirably, and also 
keep Red Spider at bay. When the new shoots have made 
five or six leaves, the points of them should be pinched out. 
A fresh shoot will soon be made, and this must be treated in the 
same way. When the length is sufficient, two, or sometimes 
three, such pinchings are requisite during the season. It is 
much wiser to regulate the growth by summer pinching than by 
pruning with a knife in winter. Not only are heavier and finer 
crops produced, but Phoma cinerascens, a fungus which causes 
old and young shoots to die back so badly, is not so much in 
evidence ; in fact, some plants which have never been touched* 
with a knife show no signs of the fungoid attack, although placed 
amongst infested plants. As the fruit exhibits signs of ripening, 
syringing should cease, and a drier atmosphere be maintained, 
gradually increasing the ventilation ; this will improve the flavour 
of the Figs, and prevent the fruit from splitting to any serious 
extent. A little judgment will soon show when the fruit is 
quite ripe ; it should be eaten almost immediately, as it deteriorates 
with keeping. 

When the fruit has all been picked, a closer atmosphere should 
again be resumed, with thorough syringing twice daily ; a second 
crop will then be borne, often better than the first one. As 
this second lot commences to ripen, repeat the process already 
advised with the first. Afterwards gradually encourage the plants 
to rest by giving plenty of air for a few weeks, and then stand 
them outside, if in pots, until there is danger of frost, when they 
should be placed in a cold house ; but whether outside or in, 
the roots should have enough water to keep them healthy and 
plump. 

For first supplies St. John's and Pingo de Mel are unequalled. 
The latter seldom, if ever, casts its first crop of fruit, and is a 
most valuable variety for forcing. Bourjassotte Grise is a later 
variety, a free bearer, and of the most exquisite flavour. Violette 
Sepor is another grand mid-season sort, possessing delicious 
flavour, and is an abundant bearer. White Marseilles is an early 



ox FRUIT CULTURE. 



1003 



variety, well-known for its merits as a cropper, and for its rich 
flavour. White, Black, and Yellow or Green Ischia are all small 
but delicious kinds, that bear profusely. Nebian is one of the 
best late sorts, and of fine flavour. For exhibition, Negro Largo 
is unsurpassed ; it is followed by Brunswick and Brown Turkey. 
All of these are large and handsome if not too heavily cropped. 

Red Spider and a small Scale like the ^vlussel Scale are the two 
greatest animal pests of the Fig. ^Methods for treating these 
pests will be found in the Chapter " On Pests Generally." 

Gooseberries. 

Ix THE QpEX. — The value of the Gooseberrv is so well known 
that it needs no introduction even to the greatest novice. A'S'hen 
Apples are over, and Rhubarb has begun to be monotonous, green 
Gooseberries enable the gardener to make a welcome change 
for tarts, »S:c. ; and for the market-grower they are equally 
valuable. Another advantage is that half the crop may be 
gathered for use while green, and the remainder will still prove 
a good crop, and the fruit be all the finer on account of the 
previous gatherings. ]\Iany market - growers adopt the plan of 
picking all the largest berries immediately they are big enough 
for sale ; a little later, the berries on the lower branches, or 
where at all thick, are picked ; and the last, or final, gathering is 
'made when the fruit is ripe. The last picking is usually remark- 
able for the fine berries, and these are in good demand. Some 
persons might be tempted to state that the large berries are 
inferior in flavour to smaller berries of the same variety, but 
there is really no comparison, as the large berries are far superior 
to the small ones in quality. 

Probablv no fruit under cultivation responds so freely to good 
treatment as the Gooseberry, and, because of its accommodating 
nature, less attention is paid to it than its great merits deserve. 
On all soils where the drainage is good, the position open, and 
the soil fairly deep, really magnificent crops of fruit may be 
readilv produced, as the Gooseberry is not at all particular as 
to soil. Before planting, the ground should not only be deeply 
dug, but all weeds that may prove a nuisance later on ought to 
be eradicated, thus saving labour and annoyance as the bushes 
become larger. Deep-planting is injurious; the nearer the roots 
are (in reason) to the surface, the better will be the progress of 
the tree or bush. 

When to plant is a question that must be decided by local 
influences ; no doubt exists as to November being the best 
time. Gardeners, however, are often obliged to plant when 
circumstances will permit; but under no conditions ought 
planting to be done when the land is wet and the soil sticky. 
It will "be far preferable to lay the plants in by the roots in a 
shallow trench, and plant out when the soil is in a good working 



I004 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



State, irrespective of season, at any time between the beginning 
of November and the end of March. If the soil is not poor, 
manure is unnecessary ; in fact, the little bushes are better 
without it until they commence fruiting. As a rule, the bushes 
may be planted from 5ft. to 6ft. apart each way in large or small 
blocks. Another mode of planting is by the side of paths round 
the kitchen-garden ; in such cases 6ft. to 8ft. ought to be allowed 
the line or row, thus enabling free access to the quarters occupied 
by the vegetables. 

Another excellent method of growing Gooseberries is as cordon 
trees trained to supports by the sides of walks ; or they may be 
trained against north walls to afford late supplies of fruit. Single, 
double, or other cordons may spring from one stem, each cordon 
being ift. from another. Good crops of fine fruit are borne on 
these closely-pruned cordons ; they are easily protected from 
birds, and occupy very little space ; and for small gardens or 
where space is very limited, they are extremely useful, and 
worthy of greater attention. 

The pruning of the Gooseberry in whatever form the tree is 
grown is a very simple operation, but frequently it is not correctly 
done Supposing a tree is bought from the nurseryman, it should 
have a clean stem, or leg, ift. high at least; from this stem the 
branches should spread in all directions, and the person pruning 
ought to aim at having a bush equally proportioned, with branches' 
and young wood so arranged that light and air can pass all 
through, with sufficient room between the growth for the hand 
to pass in to gather the fruit. The leading shoots should be 
left nearly their full length, and all other side-shoots cut in to 
about three eyes. If the tree has a " weeping " habit, it is 
essential that all shoots left to form a tree be cut back to 
a top, or upright, bud ; if cut to a bud on the lower side of 
the shoot, they will soon be growing downwards instead of 
upwards. Of course, in those varieties which naturally have an 
upright habit, it does not matter much about cutting to any bud 
in particular. Birds are often fond of devouring the buds, and 
where they are troublesome it is advisable to leave the pruning 
until the spring, just as the buds are moving. Cordon trees are 
pruned in the same way as other fruit-trees grown on that system : 
the leading shoot is allowed to grow nearly ift. or more annually, 
and all side-shoots are cut back to about three buds in the autumn 
or winter. If exhibition fruit is required, there must first be strong 
healthy, young trees, and all useless shoots judiciously removed 
while small. In the gardener's words, the trees must be "dis- 
budded," retaining only just those shoots necessary for the further 
development of the tree and to form the requisite spurs. Over- 
crowding or congestion must be avoided, and the fruit carefully 
thinned, leaving only the berries in the positions where they will 
get the full benefit of light and air. 



ON FRUIT CULTURE, 



1005 



Heavy or rather strong applications of manure are unnecessary 
— indeed, harmful. If diluted liquid manure is applied once or 
twice weekly the effect will be far better than in the case of 
concentrated and less frequent applications. Failing liquid 
manure, guano, at the rate of loz. per square yard, and loz. of 
nitrate of soda, similarly applied every fortnight while the fruit 
is swelling, will cause it to attain a large size. Almost any of 
the manures in a prepared state may be applied with advantage, 
and at the strength recommended by the manufacturers, but in 
every case care must be exercised that none of it falls on the 
foliage, or damage will be done, and the tree weakened and 
disfigured. 

A large number of varieties are equally good for exhibition or 
for cooking and dessert purposes ; the following sorts combining 
all three qualifications : — Red : Dan's Mistake, Crown Bob, 
Monarch, Lord Derby, Speedwell, and Clayton. White : 
Antagonist, King of Trumps, Careless, Lady Leicester, Postman, 
and Alma, Yellow : Leader, Leveller, Ringer, Trumpeter, 
Criterion, and Drill, Green : Plunder, Telegraph, Gunner, 
Matchless, British Queen, and Stockwell, 

Some owners of gardens have a decided objection to large 
Gooseberries, preferring the smaller fruiting varieties for both 
dessert and cooking. 
To meet such de- 
mands the following 
are excellent : White- 
smith, an old 
favourite of high 
quality ; Snowdrop, 
a pretty and delicious 
fruit ; Early Sulphur 
(Fig. 653), a fine- 
flavoured variety, and 
the earliest to ripen ; 
Yellow Champagne, 
one of the finest- 
flavoured sorts ; 
Greengage, an early 
and delicious variety; 
Green Gascoigne, 
also excellent ; Whin- 
ham's Industry, a 
favourite market variety, and very good mdeed for dessert or 
cooking; Warrington, a sterling old variety, of proved excellence. 
Both 1:he Red and White Champagne varieties should be 
included, as they are second to none for flavour; in fact, all 
the above are thoroughly reliable alike as to their cropping 
qualities and general excellence. 




Fig. 653. — Gooseberry Early Sulphur. 



ioo6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Gooseberries are easily increased by cuttings or layers, the 
former being much the more expeditious method, as a large 
number of cuttings may be propagated from one bush. Cuttings 
may be made from pieces of young wood immediately after 
the foliage has fallen, and each cutting should be from ift. 
to i^ft. in length. Some people leave an inch or so of the 
previous year's wood at the base of the cutting, but experience 
has proved that they root equally well with or without a 
heel of older wood. Having cut the shoot or cutting to the 
proper length, all the lower buds, or eyes, should be carefully 
cut out, leaving only three or four eyes at the apex. This will 
later on furnish a tree, or bush, with a clean leg, and also prevent 
young shoots from springing up through the soil. As already 
stated in connection with Red and White Currants, these 
shoots from the base or soil are undesirable, for if such growth 
were permitted, all the fruit produced thereon would be covered 
with soil and filth after a heavy storm ; and for that reason 
alone it is best to effectually stop the formation of these lower 
growths by cutting away all the lower buds when making the 
cutting. When the cuttings have been prepared, they should be 
inserted in soil and treated as already advised for Currants. 

Apart from the Gooseberry Moth, Gooseberry and Currant 
Sawfly, and the Spinach Moth, which attack both Currants and 
Gooseberries, the latter has as a visitor one of the "infinitely 
small." This is the Gooseberry Mite {Bryobia prefiosa), commonly 
mistaken for Red Spider. It appears in vast numbers on leaves 
and stems in the spring, and causes them to assume an unhealthy 
appearance, and frequently to fall prematurely. The mites multiply 
very rapidly, hot, dry seasons being favourable to their increase. 
Kerosene emulsion should be employed, taking care that foliage 
and bark (more especially in old trees) are thoroughly reached. 
Carbolic soft soap in solution (loz. to a gallon of water) will 
prove effectual if persisted in, using it hot, say i2odeg. to 
i4odeg., and on a bright day, but before the sun gets too 
powerful to burn the foliage. 

A species of Mildew {MicrosphcBra grossula7'icB) asserts itself 
upon the foliage and does some damage. This may be stayed 
by dusting powdered sulphur over the leaves or else by spraying 
with potassium sulphide. 

Grapes. 

In the Open. — Really delicious Grapes may be grown outside it 
the vines are planted against south walls that are sheltered from 
cold, cutting winds, and if a little care is taken in regulating 
the growth during the summer. Only a few varieties, however, 
are worth planting, and the following have proved the most 
reliable : Moore's Early, a small but delicious black sort, setting 
its fruit freely, and' one of the first to ripen, is strongly 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



1007 



recommended. Miller's Burgundy is a purple variety, of good 
flavour, and very suitable for outside culture. Black Cluster is a 
sweet, black variety, and sets very freely. Chasselas Vibert also 
answers in very warm situations, and is of extra good flavour. 

The best time to plant vines outside is early in April, just 
as new growth is commencing, preparing the site first by mixing 
some good fibrous loam and wood-ashes or lime refuse with 
the ordinary soil. In this the vine should be planted without 
disturbing the roots at all. It should not be planted deeply; 
if the ball of roots is only an inch or so below the surface that 
will suffice. The soil should be made firm round the roots, and 
a good soaking of water applied immediately after planting, 
afterwards putting a mulch of litter over the soil to retain 
moisture. Every effort should be made to encourage growth by 
watering thoroughly if the weather is dry, and after bright, 
sunny days a sprinkling overhead with the syringe will do 
good. 

No liquid manure must be given for a year or two, as it 
would do more harm than good ; in fact, if the vines are 
planted in moderately rich soil, no manure of any kind is 
necessary until they commence to fruit, when it may be applied 
with good results. As many shoots as may be requisite to cover 
the space at command may be trained on the wall, allowing 3ft. 
between each permanent shoot ; in later years each of these 
shoots or main branches will emit side-shoots, or laterals, and 
these should be about i5in. apart on each side of the main 
branches, or "rods," as they are termed by gardeners. The 
laterals should be trained in the 3ft. space between the rods, 
and when they have made about i8in. of growth, the point 
should be cut out ; or, if bunches are on the laterals, the point 
should be taken out one leaf beyond the bunch. Over-cropping 
must be avoided, and when the foliage has all dropped, the 
laterals should be cut back to tw^o eyes, these forming spurs. 
Should more than one lateral start from a spur, all but the 
strongest ought to be rubbed off while small. 

Under Glass. — Grape-culture under glass has made such 
enormous strides during the past twenty years, and so much glass 
has been erected for the production of this nourishing and 
delicious fruit, that many large growers now send tons to market 
every week in the season, lowering the prices so greatly, com- 
pared with what used to be realised, that it has become a serious 
matter to many of the smaller men, whose produce cannot 
be termed first-rate. However, in spite of the magnitude of 
the quantity put on the market and the low price, the private 
grower very rightly prefers to grow his own ; not only are 
they fresh, but also of better appearance, and far more whole- 
some than Grapes which have been exposed to the dust, &c., of 
the market. 



ioo8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



By the aid of modern appHances the skilful gardener has 
now no difficulty in providing a daily supply of good Grapes 
for his employer's table all the year round. For first supplies 
(ripe in April or early in May) Pot Vines (Fig. 654) are desirable. 

Fruiting canes are 
sold by the leading 
nurserymen. These 
are best potted into 
larger pots having 
perforated sides 
(taking care to dis- 
turb the roots as 
little as possible in 
potting) and placed 
on slabs in a well- 
heated, span -roofed 
house early in 
November. Under- 
neath the slabs or 
staging should be 
hot-water pipes to 
supply bottom-heat. 
All round the pots 
turf or fibrous loam 
should be tightly 
packed to a width 
of about 6in., and 
all the vacant space 
on the slabs or beds 
filled up firmly with 
fresh leaves or litter. These will generate a nice gentle heat, 
that will be maintained by the pipes underneath, and the roots 
of the vines will pass into the loam through the perforated 
sides of the pots, and should ensure a heavy crop of fine 
Grapes. 

A temperature of 5odeg. will be high enough to start the 
vines in, thoroughly moistening the canes, floors, &c., on the 
mornings of bright days, and as the canes break or commence 
growing gradually increasing the temperature up to 65deg., with 
a slight fall at night. When the plants begin to flower, syring- 
ing should cease, and a little drier atmosphere should be 
maintained, with a slightly higher temperature, only damping 
the paths, bed, &c., on the mornings of bright days. About 
mid-day the canes ought to be given a sharp rap with the hand 
to distribute the pollen and thus aid the flowers to set. When 
the set is complete, more atmospheric moisture may be given, the 
grower being guided as to the amount by the state of the weather — 
if dull, giving little or none, and if bright, then giving freely in 




ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



lOOQ 



the mornings, so that all excess of moisture may settle 
before night. 

Pot vines, as a rule, make only moderate growth, and one 
shoot from an eye is plenty. If too many shoots appear, all 
that are not required should be rubbed off when only lin. or 
2in. long, leaving the permanent shoots about ift. apart on each 
side of the cane or rod. When the shoots are about i5in. long, 
they should have the points pinched out, and those carrying 
bunches, at two leaves beyond the bunch. Any sub-laterals 
forming on the shoots should be pinched back to one leaf while 
small, thus conserving all the vigour. If the vines are 3ft. apart, 
and trained about T5in. from the glass, it may easily be calculated 
hoW' many plants the house will contain. As far as possible the 
growth should be allow^ed to cover the roof or trellis. Good 
strong, healthy pot vines ought to carry from six to eight bunches 
of good Grapes if liberally supplied with diluted liquid manure, or 
occasionally surface-dressed with a reliable chemical manure. 
Directly the Grapes commence changing colour, feeding should be 
gradually reduced and a little more air be admitted on favourable 
days. When all the Grapes have been gathered, the vines are 
best thrown away, as they are little good afterwards, and the 
house may then be employed to grow" a late crop of ]Melons, &c. 

Black Hamburgh is the best variety of Grape for pot culture, 
being early and excellent in every way. If a white variety is 
desired, Foster's Seedling is a very good one. Thinning of the 
bunches is fully described further on. 

In most private gardens the Vineries are in the form of a 
range, and are often built as lean-to's against a wall. Other 
forms of vinery are the three-quarter span and the span-roofed ; 
but in whatever form they are constructed, the heating principle 
is the same, those most distant from the boiler being for the late 
Grapes, as it would obviously be a waste of fuel and boiler 
power to have the vinery requiring the greatest heat the furthest 
removed. Equally as important as the erection and heating of 
the vineries are the drainage and formation of borders. On 
some soils really first-class Grapes are grown without any prepared 
borders, but in few private gardens is it possible to do this, 
and it proves most economical in the end to do the work 
thoroughly in the first place, by excavating the soil to the depth 
of 3^ft. to 4ft. and the width of the house, laying in a drain to 
carry away all surplus w^ater, and putting in broken bricks over 
the bottom to a depth of ift. On this should be laid 2^ft. of 
good fibrous loam fresh from a pasture, with mortar rubble or 
plaster refuse and a little bone-meal added ; a good border will 
then be made. No farmyard manure should be incorporated, nor 
should the turf be broken up, as the fibre then lasts longer, and 
the soil does not congest or set together so closely. This 4ft. 
border being inside, the vines may be planted at almost any 



lOIO 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



time of the year. If put in while dormant, it is an excellent 
plan to take the plants out of the pots at night, and to 
allow the ball of soil to stand all night in water ; in the morning 
it is an easy matter to shake all the soil away, and the roots 
may then be disentangled and spread out evenly in the border, 
taking care not to plant deeply. Vines may also be planted very 
successfully while in growth, first giving the roots a good soaking 
with water, and then planting the vine without disturbing the root 
at all, but packing the soil firmly round the ball, and giving a 
good watering to settle all about the roots. In a week or so 
another thorough watering should be given, to keep the ball of 
the roots moist, otherwise it may become dry and no progress 
will be made. If a mulch of strawy manure is applied imme- 
diately after the first planting, the moisture w^ill not evaporate 
so rapidly, nor will weeds be so troublesome. The usual 
distance between vines is 3ft., but if extra fine exhibition 
bunches are desired 4ft. apart will be better. Every two or three 
years another 2ft. may be added to the border until the inside 
space is filled up ; then if the vinery walls are built on arches, 
as they should be (except the early vinery), the same process 
could go on outside until that space was filled up. With mid-season 
and late Grapes this system of inside and outside borders has 
many advantages, the chief being that if the vines show signs of 
debility one of the borders may be taken out in the winter and a 
new one put in without risk of losing a crop : another lease of 
life is thus given to the vines. In taking out an exhausted 
border all roots should be carefully preserved and wrapped in 
wet mats or sacking, keeping them wet until they can be 
laid afresh in the new border, into which they will quickly 
spread. 

For the earliest vinery, Black Hamburgh, Foster's Seedling, 
Madresfield Court, and the exquisite Muscat Hamburgh, are all 
excellent. The last-named is somewhat fickle, but where it can 
be grown well it is the finest flavoured of all black Grapes. 
Sometimes Madresfield Court splits its berries when ripening ; 
to prevent this it should be planted in the airiest position in 
the house. For mid-season or late supplies, Alicante, Muscat 
of Alexandria, Gros Maroc, Gros Colman, Mrs. Pearson, Mrs. 
Pince, Chasselas Napoleon, Lady Downes, and West's St. Peter's, 
are all very good varieties, and, when well grown, will hold their 
own on the exhibition-table if necessary. Lady Downes, Mrs. 
Pearson, Alicante, Mrs. Pince, Muscat of Alexandria, • and Gros . 
Colman, will keep sound until May if well ripened and stored in 
a suitable Grape-room. 

In all vineries a somewhat low temperature should be given 
when first starting the plants — 45deg. to 5odeg. will be high 
enough, gradually raising it as the vines advance, as already 
mentioned for pot vines. The late vines may be allowed to 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



lOI I 



Start naturally, i.e., without the aid of artificial heat ; but when 
once the rods have commenced to break into growth, a gentle 
fire-heat, coupled with copious syringing early in the morning, 
and again early in the afternoon, is advisable. The house should 
be shut up with a good sun-heat and plenty of moisture in the 
atmosphere ; this is secured by well damping the rods, paths, 
borders, and walls. The heat and moisture thus derived will 
prove highly beneficial to the vines and their growth. When 
they are in flower, syringing of the plants should cease until all 
the Grapes have been cut. For all Muscat varieties of Grapes a 
rather high temperature may be given with a slightly reduced 
amount of moisture in the house. If the vines are in good 
health a good set will be secured by simply shaking the rods 
vigorously about mid-day. With shy-setting varieties, like Muscat 
of Alexandria, some gardeners introduce pollen from other sorts 
such as Alicante, but this is seldom necessary if the weather is 
bright at the flowering period. 

Before describing the process of thinning Grapes it should be 
mentioned how important are disbudding and the stopping of the 
laterals. From nearly all spurs on the rods more shoots will show 
than it is advisable to permit to grow. No hard-and-fast rule can 
be laid down as to how many shoots should proceed from each 
spur, but sufficient should be left to cover all the roof without 
overcrowding the foliage. The best should be selected, rubbing 
off" all the worst placed and weakest ones while small, thus 
avoiding any check to the vines. As the shoots lengthen to 
i5in. or a little less, the points should be nipped out with the 
finger and thumb ; or if the shoot, or lateral, as it is called, is 
carrying a bunch, the point should be taken out one or two 
leaves beyond where the bunch is showing. All this "stopping," 
as gardeners term it, is best done early, v/hile the growth is tender, 
and while the operation can be effected with the finger and thumb. 
After the first stopping, " sub-laterals " will quickly form. As 
these appear, no time must be lost in stopping them at the first 
leaf, unless a shoot is wanted to cover a vacant space on the 
roof. With young vines, the leading shoot may be allowed to 
grow on unchecked. One of the worst mistakes it is possible to 
make is to neglect promptly attending to stopping, yet it 
frequently happens ; the consequence is that a mass of useless 
growth is made, and to reduce this to reasonable limits the knife 
is freely employed in cutting out or cutting back the shoots. A 
great check is thus given the vines, followed by badly-coloured, 
shanked, or inferior flavoured Grapes. There should be none of 
this ^yeakening of the vines if high-class Grapes are wanted for 
home use or exhibition, or even for market. All bunches not 
desired for the crop should be cut off early, say immediately 
after setting ; indeed, with free-setting varieties, surplus bunches 
may with advantage be cut off before they blossom. 

3 T 2 



lOI 2 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



The question of how many bunches a vine may carry will 
depend very much on local circumstances. One pound of fruit to 
every foot length of rod is a safe crop for healthy, well-fed vines. 
Market-growers often obtain double and treble that weight, but 
their vines seldom last many years. Again, some varieties like 
Black Hamburgh, Alicante, and Gros Colman will ripen and 
finish up a much heavier crop annually than Muscat of Alexandria. 
Very large-bunched varieties of the Gros Guillaume or White 
Nice type should not be permitted to bear many bunches : while 
the delicious but small Frontignan sorts will ripen a bunch on 
almost every lateral if the vines are strong. Unfortunately, in the 
rage for appearance, the Frontignan varieties have almost vanished, 
but the Grizzly, Black, White, and Primavis Frontignans are worthy 

of a place in gardens where richly- 
flavoured Grapes are appreciated. 

Thi nning of the bunches (Fig. 
655) can scarcely be done too soon 
alter the Grapes are set, more 
especially with free-setting varieties 
like Alicante. Immediately the berries 
can be cut out, all the inner ones 
should first be removed with a sharp 
pair of Grape-scissors, and the outer 
ones also thinned out according to 
the variety. Large-berried sorts like 
Gros Colman will have none too much 
room for full development with lin. 
between the berries, while small- 
berried sorts like the Frontignans 
will not require half that space to 
swell up. Sorts which have large 
"shoulders" should have them tied 
Fig. 655.-BUNCH OF Grapes up with twisted strips of raffia. 
AFTER Thinning. The grower should always avoid 

touching the small berries with the 
hands or head ; otherwise the bloom may be injured, or rust 
may set in on the fruit. Muscats should be thmned latest to 
enable the grower to distinguish which of the berries are stone- 
less : these should be all cut away, as they will never swell to 
any respectable size. Figs. 656 and 657 show respectively 
a properly and an improperly thinned bunch at maturity. 

Ventilation must be done judiciously, admitting air early on 
bright mornings when the temperature rises a little above 
yodeg., gradually increasing the ventilation as the day becomes 
warmer, and closing in the afternoon with a good sun-heat. On 
dull or cold windy mornings air should be admitted very cautiously, 
or a check may be given to the growth, followed by Mildew, 
cracked berries, or other evils. 




ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



lor T. 



Feeding the roots with either chemical 
or natural manures ought not to be prac- 
tised until the vines are cropping. Stimu- 
lants are then useful if properly 
applied, bearing in mind always that 
weak and frequent feedings are more 
serviceable than concentrated appli- 
cations. Experience has taught us 
that chemical n:ianures used in con- 
junction with natural manures are really 
the most effectual in producing the 
best results, although first-class Grapes are 
grown every year by both kinds of manure, 
employed separately. 

Pruning of vines is a simple matter if 
once the principle is understood. With 
young vines the leading rod may be 
allowed 3ft. to 4ft. of growth each 
season, cutting in all laterals to one 
or two eyes. In older vines the same 
system of pruning the laterals holds good, 

with one or 





Fig. 656. — Properly 
Thinned Bunch of 
Madresfield Court 
Grapes Matured. 

(Much reduced.) 



Fig. 657. — Improperly 
Thinned Bunch of 
Black Hamburgh 
Grapes. 

(Much reduced.) 



two exceptions ; 
these are Black 
Monukka, Gros 
Guillaume, and 
Buckland 
Sweet 

water, which will not fruit freely 
if very closely pruned, and there- 
fore three or four eyes should be 
left when pruning the laterals. 

Propagation is easily effected 
by means of eyes cut with an 
inch or so of wood on each side 
of the bud, and placed in gentle bottom- 
heat, or even by pieces of young wood, 
several inches long, placed in heat, as 
the vine roots readily. Even pieces 
stuck in the soil outside will root freelv. 

In many private gardens Grapes must 
be kept for as long a period as possible. 
To achieve this object the bunches are 
cut with a good piece of young wood 
attached ; this wood is put in a bottle of 
water with a little charcoal added, and the 
bottle hung by its neck, or placed in a 
proper Grape-rack, at such an angle that 



IOI4 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the bunch hangs clear of the side of the bottle (as in Fig. 658). 
Strict attention must be paid to the early removal of any decayed 
berries, and also to the replenishing of the bottles with water as 



often as may be necessary. An 




Fig. 658. — Mode 
Bottles for 



OF Fixing 
Grapes. 



roots. In the latter 
been opened, and 
poured on the roots, 
some 9gals. of water 
applied hot. 



case 
from 
To 



even temperature of 4odeg. to 
45deg., with as dry an atmo- 
sphere as possible, will be suit- 
able for keeping the Grapes 
plump and sound. Any great 
fluctuations are always bad for 
the keeping of this fruit. 

Of the pests affecting 
the Grape the 
most to be 
dreaded is the 
A/" i n e Louse 
{Phyllox- 
era vas- 
t a t r i X ), 
Much has 
been done 
of late 
years to- 
wards 
keeping it 
at bay by 
^ the use 

of stocks 

that are practically proof against 
the attacks of the insects, which 
are near relatives of the Aphides. 
As in the case of the American 
Blight there are both root- and 
leaf-feeders, the latter being dis- 
tinguished by the tubercles found 
upon the adults. The former are 
the most difficult to deal with, 
as they are out of the reach of 
most insecticides. The 2;alls due 
to their attacks on both roots and 
foliage are shown at Fig. 659. 
Kerosene emulsion has given ex- 
cellent results in America : it has 
been used for both foliage and 
the border of the infested vine has 
3gals. to logals. of the insecticide 
every gallon of concentrated emulsion 



should be added, and the mixture is best 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



I015 



Red Spider, Thrips, Weevils of several sorts, and Wasps, 
amongst other animals, cause the grower not a little anxiety. 
They are, however, easily disposed of as compared with the 
Phylloxera, and methods for successfully dealing with them will 
be given under their respective headings in the Chapter " On 
Pests Generally." 

Fungoid diseases are also fairly numerous and correspondingly 
harmful. Powdery MW^q^ (Uncinuia spiralis — Oidium TiLckeri) is 
one on the commonest, and the symptoms of attack are so well 
marked they should be readily seen. The patches of greyish 
Mildew upon the upper surface of the foliage are very characteristic. 
Less frequently the fruit itself is attacked, turns brown, and 
cracks. Flowers of sulphur, distributed with the bellows, will 
get rid of the disease if applied as directed by the well-known 
authority on plant diseases, Mr. Galloway. He advises the 
first application ten or twelve days before the flowers open, and 




Fig. 659. — Stem and Leaf of Vine Attacked by Phylloxera 

vastatrix. 



a second when they are in full blossom, the thermometer at the 
same time registering from 8odeg. to loodeg. Fahr. 
■ Sderotinid Fuckeliana is far more destructive than the Mildew : 
it attacks all parts of the plant, which are covered with a 
greenish mould. So soon as the disease is noted, the affected 
parts of the vine should be cut off and burned ; while spraying 
with potassium sulphide (^oz. to the gallon of water) should be 
resorted to. Next season spraying with the latter should again 
be employed as a preventive measure. 

Gloiosporiicm ampelophagum^ known popularly as Bird's Eye Rot 
and Grape Anthracnose, is a very undesirable visitor in a 
vinery. The popular names are well bestowed, as the " spots " 
on the fruit have a fanciful resemblance to eyes. They consist 
of a greyish nearly circular patch, with brown margins, whose 
edges are of a bright red. Shoots, leaves, and fruits are all 
attacked, and the last-named shrivel and drop. All the parts 
affected should be cut out and burned. The vines should be 
dusted with the ordinary flowers of sulphur, leaving more 



ioi6 



thp: book of gardening. 



radical treatment until it can more safely be performed. What 
is known as the copperas treatment has found considerable favour 
both in America and in France. It consists in "washing" the 
vines when completely at rest with iron sulphate, 61b.; water, 
i4gals.; prepared in a tub. 

Medlar. 

In the Open. — These highly-ornamental trees are a great 
success upon both the Pear and the Whitethorn stocks, flowering 
freely and bearing huge crops of fruit on fairly good soil that 
is well drained. The Dutch (Monstrous) is the largest-fruited 
variety ; the tree has a spreading habit as compared with the 
more compact-growing Nottingham, which is considered by 
connoisseurs to be the richest flavoured variety ; its fruit 
is small and produced abundantly. The Royal has a 
distinct and somewhat sharp flavour; the fruit is of moderate 




Fig. 660. — irRuiTiNG Branch of Royal ^Medlar. 



size (Fig. 660), and the tree is a good bearer. Medlars should 
not be gathered until they separate readily from the tree ; they 
should then be spread out thinly in a cool, airy room, and eaten 
as they become decayed. 

Melons. 

Under Glass. — The Melon can scarcely be termed "highly 
remunerative " for market, but its fine delicious flavour causes it to 
take a prominent position on both dessert and exhibition tables. 
The finest fruit is unquestionably obtained from low houses or pits, 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



lOI 7 



having bottom-heat for the roots as well as a good top heat 
for the plants ; the bottom-heat may be furnished by fermenting 
material such as litter from stables, or by hot-water pipes under- 
neath slates or slabs on which the soil is placed. The soil for 
Melons should, if possible, be rather heavy and possess plenty of 
fibre ; and if it is placed on the slabs or fermenting material a 
day or two prior to the time for planting, it will become 
thoroughly warmed through, and be in a correct condition for 
the young plants that have been raised in pots from seed. A 
mistake is frequently made in putting the young plants deeply 
in the soil : as little as possible of the stems should be buried, 
otherwise Canker will most probably set in, and the whole crop 
be in danger. A moist growing atmosphere is desirable, with a 
night temperature- of 65deg., rising sdeg. or lodeg. by day. 

Prompt attention should be given to tying the growths to the 
trellis on the roof, avoiding any congestion of growth by removing 
surplus shoots with the finger and thumb as they appear. When 
the young fruit is forming, the point of the shoot is best pinched 
out one leaf beyond the embryo fruit, and while the female 
flowers are open, a rather drier atmosphere ought to be given, as 
this will assist in securing a good set. In the early part of the 
year all the female flowers should be fertihsed with the pollen of 
the male flowers ; later on bees and insects will perform the work. 
When it is seen that there is a good set, all fruits, except four of 
the best and most even in size, should be cut away ; those 
remaining will be ample for the plant to carry. Plenty of 
atmospheric moisture is desirable, and every effort should be 
made to swell the fruit to a large size by means of weak liquid 
manure ; measures should also be adopted to support the fruit by 
strings or other means when it is about the size of a small Orange. 
Immediately the fruit shows signs of ripening by the aroma 
given, syringing should cease, water at the roots should be supplied 
sparingly, and more air admitted on all suitable occasions. This 
will improve the flavour, and prevent splitting of the fruit. When 
there is a small crack all round the stem of the fruit, it is ready 
for cutting, and, after being in the fruit-room a few days, it will 
soften and be in prime condition for dessert. Hero of Lockinge, 
Golden Perfection, and William Tillery are three good green- or 
white-fleshed varieties ; and Blenheim Orange and Gunton 
Scarlet are two excellent scarlet-fleshed ones. 

Mulberries. 

In the Open. — All the Mulberries enjoy a warm position 
and good soil. With these aids they are very fine, and 
by some people the fruit is much esteemed. The large 
Black, White, and the Weeping Russian White Mulberry are 
all excellent ; the last-named makes a very handsome tree on 
the lawn. 



IOl8 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

Nectarines. 

In the Open. — Of late years a very marked advance has 
been made in these delicious fruits. New varieties have been 
introduced by Messrs. Rivers and Sons, Sawbridgeworth, and also 
one by Messrs. J. Veitch and Sons, Chelsea, which enable the 
cultivator to pick ripe fruit outside on open walls at the end of 
June or early in July, thus prolonging the season for several 
weeks. The chief points essential to success are a warm 
situation, good drainage, suitable soil, a correct method of 
pruning and training the trees, and perfect cleanliness. In some 
parts of the North really excellent crops of Nectarines are grown ; 
but unless the situation is very favourable indeed, the planting 
of trees outside cannot be recommended very far north of the 
Trent. Further South there should be little difficulty in growing 
both trees and fruit to perfection, providing the points already 
enumerated receive requisite attention. Walls facing the south 
or south-west, and sheltered from cutting draughts of wind, are 
the most suitable aspects for Nectarines (these remarks also 
apply to Peaches), and such sites are available in almost every 
garden of any extent. 

Having decided on which wall the trees are to be trained, 
the first operation should be to see that the drainage is in good 
order. If the soil is resting on gravel, no artificial drainage will 
be necessary, as all surplus water will quickly disappear. But 
if on rock of any kind, it may prove too wet for the good health 
of the trees, and it will be better to make quite sure by putting 
in a drain a few feet from the wall. Again, where the sub-soil 
is of a clayey nature, it is wise to drain ; in fact, the importance 
of good drainage for fruit-trees can scarcely be over-estimated, 
especially when of a tender disposition, like the one under notice. 
Soil properly drained is much warmer in winter and cooler in 
summer than undrained ground, and therefore the former is a 
more suitable rooting medium. Soil varies so much in different 
gardens, that the local conditions must rule what should be done 
to make it in a proper state for the future welfare of the trees. 
If very light, the addition of marl or heavy loam is desirable, as 
Nectarines enjoy a moderately heavy soil. On the other hand, if it 
is tenacious or heavy, the addition of burnt garden refuse, road- 
scrapings, or parings is beneficial. In each case the new soil 
should, if possible, be of a fibrous character. Deep borders should 
be avoided. If only about 2ft. deep they will be all the better for 
the trees, and every effort should be made to retain the roots in 
the 2ft. border ; when they descend in quantity to a lower 
depth they are beyond solar influences, and often get into some- 
thing more or less injurious, causing gumming or unripened wood. 
In thousands of instances no great care has been taken to prepare 
any border whatever, but there has been naturally a good situation, 
or if not the trees have succeeded very well for a few years and 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



IOI9 



then gone into a state of collapse ; therefore, unless it is assured 
that no improvement is necessary, it will prove more satisfactory to 
do the work well in the first instance. 

When the trees arrive for planting, all wounded or jagged 
roots should be cut back. When planting, the roots ought to be 
spread out evenly and within a few inches of the surface, deep 
planting being always avoided. No manure should be incorporated 
with the soil ; but if this is heavy, a little lime-rubble or plaster 
refuse may with advantage be mixed with it when planting, making 
all thoroughly firm about the roots. Loose soil frequently induces 
a sappy growth, which does not mature, and is followed by losses 
of wood from frost, while fruit is afterwards conspicuous by its 
absence. On the other hand, a firm root-run means solid wood, 
well matured, and bristhng with fruit-buds that usually set in 
abundance. After planting, a mulch of strawy manure will conserve 
moisture and assist the formation of new roots. The best time 
to plant is the end of October, but in many cases this is impossible, 
owing to conditions over which the grower has no control. If 
the trees cannot be planted in the autumn, it is better to defer 
the operation until February : mid-winter planting is seldom 
advisable unless the weather is open and the soil in a good, free- 
working condition. 

A great mistake is often made in feeding the trees too early 
with natural or chemical manures, provoking a rampant growth 
and rendering root-pruning necessary to bring them into a fruitful 
condition. No manure of any kind is necessary until they have 
commenced to fruit, and even then weak applications are best, 
strong doses doing more harm than good. 

The training of the Nectarine-tree, in its young stage particu- 
larly, requires a certain amount of care, as unless a good 
foundation is laid in the first instance, a poor and ill-shaped tree 
is the result. The first and most important point is to form the 
lower part of the tree by training the lower limbs, or branches, 
and leaving the middle open ; the centre of the tree will always 
fill up later. If undue vigour is shown by any of the branches 
while growing, such should have their points removed once or 
twice during the summer ; this will act as a check on their 
vigour, and also assist to keep the tree in balance, ix.^ to retain 
each side of it of similar size. In the spring many more shoots 
will appear than it is possible or advisable to allow to remain, 
rendering it necessary to disbud the trees. This system of dis- 
budding should be done gradually; if the buds were removed all 
at once a check would be given to the tree. All the worst- 
placed buds should be rubbed off first, especially those that 
face outwards, for if left these would make fore-right shoots that 
would eventually have to be cut out. Gradually the other buds 
or shoots should be removed, leaving only those necessary to 
fill up blank spaces on the wall, or to increase the size of the 



I020 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



tree. Another point is to take care that buds are left in the 
middle of the tree to cover bare wood ; in fact, they should be 
arranged that young wood is evenly distributed over the whole 
of the tree without overcrowding in any part— about 6in. 
between the young shoots will be ample space. A little 
judgment and experience will soon enable anyone to understand 
disbudding. For the benefit of novices, however, it may be 

stated that this operation 
is usually performed imme- 
diately after the fruit is 
set, and when the young 
shoots are from ^in. to 
^in. in length. As the 
young shoots elongate they 
must be carefully fastened 
in proper positions to pre- 
vent breakage. 

Thinning of the fruit 
ought to receive early 
attention, first taking off 
all the worst-placed fruit 
when about the size of 
peas, and leaving the most 
prominent ones that are 
in a position to swell up 
to a lar2;e size without 
hindrance, to get all the 
sun and light possible. 
No further thinning of the 
fruit is desirable until after 
the " stoning " period ; 
then, if the tree is not very 
vigorous, a few more fruits 
may be removed. The 
stoning season is sometimes an anxious one, for if the trees are 
not in good health they are apt to cast a proportion of their 
crop ; while if in vigorous condition little, if any, of the fruit 
(Fig. 66 1 ) will fall. 

The pruning of Nectarines is, in our opinion, best done in the 
autumn, soon after the fruit is gathered, and when all further 
growth is stopped for the season, cutting away all very weak or 
exhausted wood, and bearing in mind the importance of 
retaining and encouraging young wood near the centre of the 
tree. By cutting back a long shoot or branch to a young piece 
springing from its base, it is a comparatively easy matter to keep 
plenty of young wood all over the tree ; but if once the centre of 
the tree become bare of young growth it will be a most difficult 
task to get it filled again. Some growers cut back their trees 




Fig. 66 1. — Fruit of Nectarine. 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



I02 I 



severely during the winter pruning, and no doubt they could 
defend their policy ; but in these days cultivation is carried on at 
express speed, and it is remarkable how quickly a tree may be 
developed into a large and fruitful object by adopting what is 
termed the "extension" system. In this method very little 
cutting back is practised — only what is absolutely necessary to 
keep the tree in form — the aim of the grower being to cover as 
much wall space in as little time as possible with good, solid, 
well-ripened wood. In this way big trees that will produce a 
large crop of fine fruit are obtained in a few years. 

In our fickle climate some kind of protection is necessary 
when the Nectarines are in blossom, especially if the flowers are 
at all damp, for they are then much sooner injured by frost 
than when perfectly dry. Ordinary fish-netting, doubled or trebled 
in thickness, and hung from the top of the wall, and ift. or 2ft. 
from the trees, affords great protection ; scrim canvas, calico, 
Frigi Domo, and tiffany are also excellent. The glass copings, 
that project about 2ft., are very serviceable, but whatever is 
employed no coddling should be permitted, and no covering 
be used unless really required to protect from frost. Much 
harm is done by mistaken zeal in covering the trees in all 
weathers while in blossom. In fact the object of the grower 
is defeated, as the air and light requisite to secure the distribution 
of the pollen and a good set of fruit are prevented by the shade 
made by the protecting material. 

In warm localities and against a south wall the new Early 
Rivers is one of the earliest and best of Nectarines to plant ; 
it possesses a good constitution in addition to being a free bearer 
of fruits of excellent flavour. A still later new early variety is 
Cardinal, a splendid sort for culture under glass, but uncertain 
outside ; it is likely to prove valuable for early forcing. Lord 
Napier is well known as a sterling variety for outside culture, 
being early, large, handsome, of fairly good flavour, and an 
abundant bearer. Goldoni is another early sort, of great excel- 
lence in every respect, and follows the two last-named in order 
of ripening. Dryden is a mid-season variety, very handsome, of 
delicious flavour, a free bearer, and with a strong, vigorous habit ; 
it can be highly recommended. Elruge is such a well-known 
and excellent variety, that scarcely any praise of it is needed ; 
like the last-named, it is a mid-season sort. Humboldt is a very 
fine successor to Elruge ; it is a hardy and prolific variety, of 
fine colour and flavour. Pineapple is probably the richest- 
flavoured variety in cultivation ; when planted in good soil and 
in a warm, sunny position, the fruit is large and of a beautiful 
colour, and the tree is a great cropper. Spencer and Victoria 
are two very late sorts : the former is a reliable variety on most 
soils, and of good quality ; the latter is first-rate in every respect 
on some soils, and a complete failure on others, and for that 



I022 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



reason it will be advisable to plant it cautiously. The above are 
in their order of ripening. 

Here it may be remarked that Nectarines should not be 
surfeited with either liquid or solid manure, natural or chemical. 
What they most enjoy are rather weak applications, frequently 
repeated ; the roots can then take up the plant-food supplied 
with advantage to the trees and crop, and there is no waste of 
fertilising matter. Potash, bone-meal, and superphosphate are 
all beneficial, and are a welcome change from farmyard manures. 

Under Glass. — Nectarines under glass require to be treated 
exactly as for Peaches, which see. 

Nuts. 

In the Open. — Both the Cob and the Filbert are of the 
easiest possible culture, and will grow and fruit freely on heavy 
or light, deep or shallow soil, with very little attention. They 
are free in growth, and bear moderately good crops of Nuts 
when planted in shrubberies, or on the margins of plantations 
or woods of forest trees ; in fact, it would be difficult to 
state on what soils and situations they would refuse to grow, 
provided that they had fair drainage. Unsightly banks could 
be planted with Nuts very profitably in many parts of the country 
where squirrels are not numerous. Rats and mice are trouble- 
some ; it is astonishing how many of the Nuts these animals will 
not only spoil but carry to their nests : hence, if planting land 
with Cobs or Filberts with a view to remuneration on the 
outlay, steps should be taken to keep down the numbers of 
such animal depredators. It must not be imagined that poor 
soil is most suited to Nut culture ; for though they will pay 
almost better than any other crop on poor land, yet they thoroughly 
appreciate rich soil and generous treatment, as is proved -by the 
great crops of fine Nuts borne under those conditions. However, 
in many large and small gardens space is so valuable that it 
is most economical to plant the Nuts in one corner or in some 
other out-of-the-way place where no other trees would be useful ; 
and there can be no question that this plan has much to 
recommend it. 

Frequently the query is put. What is the difference between 
a Filbert and a Cob Nut ? The answer is that a Filbert 
is quite covered by the outer husk, while the Cob Nut is 
not entirely covered, the husk, as a rule, only reaching 
about three-fourths of the way over the Nut. Opinions differ 
very much as to which — the Cob or the Filbert — is the better 
to grow for crop and flavour. Probably the well-known Kentish 
Cob is the heaviest bearer, and it succeeds admirably either as 
a bush or standard tree, consequently it is a favourite market 
variety. Cosford is another excellent free-bearing Cob ; so also 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



I02 ^ 



is Merveille de Bollwyller, the latter having very thick shells, 
and being one of the best for keeping. In Filberts Lamberts 
is a very good variety, producing its large clusters in great 
abundance. Prolific, or Frizzled Filbert, is another remarkably 
free sort, the flavour being very good ; it is always liked on 
the dessert-table. The Purple Filbert is a very attractive sort ; 
its large, deep purple foliage and fruit make it one of the 
most ornamental denizens of the shrubbery, and the fruit is of 
good quality, though not so freely produced as on some other 
varieties. 

The distance apart to plant Nut-trees will depend a great deal 
on the soil. If this is thin and of poor quality loft. apart each 
way will be ample, but if it is rich and fairly deep 14ft. apart 
will be a very suitable distance. In all cases it is advisable to 
break up the ground well, to thoroughly cleanse it of weeds, 
and to have the ground ready for planting in October. 
Of course, circumstances may prevent such early planting, 
and in such cases the operation may be undertaken at any 
period between the end of October and the end of February, 
selecting a time when the soil is in good working condition and 
does not adhere to the tools. It is best to purchase trees 
on a leg, or stem, thus avoiding innumerable suckers from 
the base, and this also permits of hoeing, (Sic, under the 
trees. Immediately after planting a mulch of strawy manure 
should be placed over the roots ; nothing in the form of 
strong manure should be applied until the trees are well 
established and producing good crops of Nuts, when it is most 
efficacious if given as a mulch, and not dug in amongst the 
best fibrous roots, as is only too frequently done. 

The formation of the tree requires a little judgment. In 
order to get the head well proportioned, about ten or twelve 
main branches should be encouraged to radiate from the leg, 
or stem, at as nearly even distances as possible from each 
other. If one or more branches outgrow the others, and arc 
likely to throw the head on one side — to make it, as gardeners 
sa}^ " lop-sided "—the offending shoots should have their points 
cut away : this will check them, and add to the strength of the 
weaker branches. When the main branches are fairly well 
developed, a twiggy growth ought to be encouraged from them, 
not overcrowding the small wood, as it is on this that most of 
the crop is produced. The middle of the tree should be kept 
open, so that plenty of light and air can penetrate to all parts. 
Most fruit-bearing trees are pruned during the late autumn and 
winter, but this is never advisable with Nuts. The object of late 
pruning is that there may be an abundance of male catkins to 
produce pollen to fertilise the female flowers. If the trees were 
pruned during the winter, very possibly there would be a scarcity 
of male flowers, and the trees would be barren through a lack of 



I024 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



pollen. The flowers are quite separate and distinct; the male 
flower is produced earlier than the female, which is quite small, 
red, and in the form of a small tuft, rising from a semi-globular 
growth on the twiggy shoots. No doubt the proper and best 
time to prune is towards the end of March. It consists in 
keeping the head not only within the necessary bounds, but also 
free and open, removing growth where congested, and shortening 
back the young wood if unduly long. Any useless or exhausted 
wood should be cut away, and all suckers promptly removed, 
unless required to increase the number of trees. Opinions vary 
as to which make the best trees — those raised from suckers or 
those from layers. Our experience is that suckers make the 
largest trees in the shortest period, but that layers make by far 
the most fruitful trees. Large shoots or branches may, if desired, 
be layered, simply notching the shoots on the under-side or 
making a cut half-way through the wood, and then pegging the 
same 2in. or 3in. deep into the soil. In a year or so the 
layers will be well rooted, and may be planted out in permanent 
positions, or in nursery quarters until wanted for other purposes. 

One of the best modes of keeping nuts fresh and plump is 
that advised in "Fruit Culture for Amateurs,"'^ as follows: "It 
is requisite to allow the Nuts to become thoroughly ripe and 
brown. Then gather them, and lay thinly on dry shelves with 
plenty of air playing on them. In a week or ten ' days the 

husks will be ouite 

± 

dead and dry, and 
the Nuts will then 
be fit to place in 
jars with a litde salt 
mingled with them, 
fastened down air- 
tight, and stood in 
a cool, dry place. 
They will keep fresh 
and good for months. " 

Nut-trees have 
comparatively few 
pests. The com- 
monest is the Nut 
Weevil, whose well- 
nourished grub must 
be familiar to everyone who partakes of Nuts. Scientifically it 
is known as Balauinus nucum (Fig. 662). The female Beetle 
bores a hole into the young fruits and deposits therein a single 
egg, which eventually hatches out into the grub referred to above. 

*" Fruit Culture for Amateurs" (L. Upcott GHl). By S. T. AVright. 
With Chapters on Insect and other Fruit Pests by AV. D. Drury. Second 
Edition. Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 3s. 6d. 




Fig. 662. — Nut Weevil and Grub. 



ON FRUIT CULTURE, 



1025 



This feeds upon the kernel, the Nut usually falls, and the maggot 
escapes in the way shown in Fig. 662, and pupates in the soil. 
Tar should be spread upon boards or stiff paper and placed 
beneath the trees towards the end of May. The trees should 
then be shaken, and the fallen Beetles destroyed. All unsound 
Nuts should be burned, and a dressing of quicklime placed 
beneath the tree as the Beetles were about to emerge from the 
soil would be useful. 

Phytoptiis Avellance, a relative of the Currant Bud Mite, gives 
trouble, and the only plan is to hand-pick the abnormal buds 
and burn them. There is also a bluish-green and yellow Sawfly 
caterpillar {Crofsiis septentrionalis\ which soon defoliates a tree if left 
alone. It is fairly abundant in early summer, and pupates in the 
soil. For remedies, see "Sawflies" in Chapter "On Pests Generally." 

Peaches. 

In the Open. — As the culture and treatment of the Peach is 
exactly similar to that advised for Nectarines, it is here only 
necessary to give a description of the best varieties, placed in 
their order of ripening. Waterloo is probably the best early 
Peach we have, being hardy, setting its fruit well, large, handsome, 
of good flavour ; it ripens outside against a warm wall in the 
third week in July. Amsden June and Early Alexander are only 
a few days behind the first -named, and also succeed very well 
outside. There are several other very early varieties, but they 
will not compare at all favourably with the three above-mentioned. 
As a successor, Hales' Early is a very large, handsome, and 
delicious fruit, and an abundant bearer. Condor closelv follows 
in ripening its large handsome fruit, which is of exquisite flavour. 
Rivers' Early York is another grand variety in use about the same 
time as Condor ; both are free bearers. Dagmar is usually a 
few days later, and is a large fruit with a brilliant colour, and of 
first rate quality ; the trees always bear well. Crimson Galande 
is another highly-coloured variety of the finest flavour, large, and 
a free bearer. Violette Hative is in use about the same season 
as the last-named, and is a most reliable variety, bearing heavy 
crops of large, well-flavoured handsome fruit. Royal George is a 
well known and popular Peach : unfortunately, on heavy soils it 
is subject to Mildew, consequently, it should only be planted in 
warm soils that are well drained, when it proves one of the best 
varieties in commerce. Barrington is a really magnificent sort 
when true, and is hardy and prolific, with large fruit of the 
first size and quality. Bellegarde is a magnificent late Peach, 
of high colour and exquisite flavour; a great cropper, and quite 
hardy. Late Devonian is a new variety that promises to be 
a decided acquisition, being large, handsome, and of delicious 
flavour. The Nectarine Peach and Walburton Admirable are 
two very good late varieties of proved merit, and rich flavour. 

3 u 



I026 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



There are several other late Peaches, Sea Eagle, for instance, 
that grow well and produce excellent crops of fruit ; but the 
quality can scarcely be termed good by anyone, and for that 
reason alone they are not included here. 

Under Glass. — The system of disbudding and pruning the 
trees is exactly the same as that already advised for trees out- 
side. The same advice also applies to the thinning of the fruit. 
Peaches and Nectarines in pots are annually becoming more 
popular in the gardens of the wealthy, as very fine fruit can be 
forced on such plants, and when the crop is all gathered the 
plants can be stood outside, and a late crop of Tomatoes grown 
in the house before it is wanted for Peaches again. The 
varieties already named as succeeding outside are equally suitable 
for inside culture. 

A compost of good fibrous loam, with a little bone-meal and 
oyster-shells broken up, or mortar rubble, thoroughly mixed, will 
suit the trees admirably. Only moderate-sized pots should be 
used ; in fact, large ones, except for trees of considerable size, 
<ire a disadvantage. In potting the drainage should be free and 
good, and the compost rammed firm about the ball of soil and 
roots, as a firm root-run is essential to success with all stone fruits. 

If early Peaches and Nectarines are desired from planted-out 
trees, the house should preferably be in the form of a sharp 
lean-to against a south wall, with four rows of hot-water pipes; 
in such a structure the cost of heating is not very great, owing 
to the comparatively small area. Later houses may, with 
advantage, be more imposing erections, and in the form of a 
lean-to with raised front, or the roof of curvilinear form, the 
trees being trained on a trelhs up the roof. Very good fruit 
indeed is also grown on bush-trees planted out in a span-roofed 
orchard-house, provided due attention is paid to disbudding, 
eradicating insect pests, &c. 

In whatever style the trees are grown, and whether forced very 
early or not, it is very important to start them gradually, or they 
will cast their buds. A temperature of 45deg. at night, rising 
5deg. by day, will suffice until the trees commence to unfold 
their buds; then it may be gradually raised lodeg. Syringing 
with tepid water in the morning and again early in the afternoon 
should be practised on all bright days, also damping all the 
border, and especially near the hot-w^ater pipes ; for unless this 
is done Red Spider is almost sure to appear. Syringing of the 
trees ought to cease when they are in blossom ; but immediately 
the fruit is properly set, syringing well both over and under the 
foliage is necessary, maintaining a genial atmosphere, and venti- 
lating carefully on warm days, as the heat in the houses rises, 
but always closing with a good sun-heat in the afternoon. When 
the fruit is ripening syringing must cease, but it should be 
resumed when all the fruit is gathered, and all ventilation possible 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



1027 



given. Manure in a diluted form from the farmyard, or the 
chemical manures now on the market, are all very good and 
essential when the trees are bearing good crops. 

Peach Curl is a very common disease due to the fungus 
Exoascus deformans. As the specific name implies, it deforms 
the parts affected. The leaves are curled, blackened, and 
frequently distorted, but the branches also participate, and the trees 
generally are much injured. Apart from the characteristics above 
noted, the leaves affected assume a yellowish or red colour, and 
fall. The disease manifests itself in spring, and both infested 
leaves and shoots should be removed and burnt. Spraying with 
a weak solution of Bordeaux Mixture should be used to prevent 
the spores which are disseminated, from germinating, and thus 
increasing the area of infection. 

Pears. 

lii^THE Open. — For market purposes the Pear is one of the most 
uncertain fruits that are grown in this country ; but for private 
consumption it is essential that some trees should be planted, 
the actual number of course depending on the size of the garden 
and the requirements of the family. The old idea that Pears 
are such a long time in arriving at a bearing state is now quite 
exploded. Really good Pears are produced the second year after 
planting ; indeed, many trees will bear the first year, but it is 
never advisable to permit this, as it weakens them before becoming 
well established, and so induces a stunted habit that will cling 
to the trees for years. 

As already mentioned in another part, gardens are so different 
in their soil, «S:c., that no hard and fast rule can be laid down 
as correct for all alike : local conditions must determine not only 
the best form of trees and the most suitable stocks, but also to 
some extent even the varieties, otherwise mistakes may be made 
that would have a very evil influence on future results. The 
question of stocks for Pears is a very serious one, and careful 
consideration as to the one likely to prove most serviceable on 
the soil in hand, and the form of tree best adapted to the position, 
is essential. On a hght, shallow, or very hot soil, the Quince 
is nearly always a failure, for even though it frequently succeeds 
admirably for a few years, it is practically certain to fail eventually 
and drag on a miserable existence ; one or two dry, hot seasons 
will so cripple the trees, in spite of watering or mulching, that 
they will be of little value afterwards. If we could always depend 
on moist summers the Quince stock might be employed ; but as 
we have no control of climatic or atmospheric conditions it will 
be best to purchase trees worked upon the Pear stock for the 
hot soils named, as the roots of this stock extend further and 
penetrate more deeply than the Quince roots, consequently they 
do not suffer from drought to the same extent. On deep, rich 

3 u 2 



I028 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



soils the Quince stock is much the best for oJl dwarf or restricted 
trees, as the roots only extend to a limited area ; therefore the 
growth is moderate and fruitful. If the trees were on the Pear 
stock in rich soil there would always be trouble in preventing 
strong, rampant w^ood and foliage, with little or no fruit. 
Standards should, however, always be on the Pear stock to 
obtain large trees. 

The advice already given in the section on Apples as to 
drainage, time of planting, pruning, &c., is also equally applicable 
to Pears, and for that reason only descriptions of the varieties 
that answer the best on the different forms of trees are here 
necessary. 

Coi'don-Ti'ees. — When it becomes more generally known how 
admirably Pears succeed as cordon-trees against walls they will 
be planted on a much larger scale than at present. Not only 
do the trees produce abundant crops, but the fruit is also large, 
of fine colour and quality, and therefore valuable for home use 
or for exhibition. In fact, some of the most noted Pear 
exhibitors obtain their prize fruit from cordon-trees. The follow- 
ing varieties crop freely if planted i8in. apart and are properly 
attended to afterwards, as advised for Cordon-Apples : Alexandre 
Lambre, a medium-sized Pear of very good quality on most 
soils, and usually a great bearer ; ripe about the middle of 
November. Baron Leroy is a new and very promising variety 
of large size and good colour ; ripe at the same time as the 
last-named, and should prove a fine exhibition sort. Beacon 

is a large and very handsome 
variety, of fair quality; middle of 
August. Beurre Alexandre Lucas 
and Beurre Fouqueray are two 
large handsome varieties of fine 
flavour, and when better known 
will be in demand for exhibition. 
Beurre Baltet Pere is usually a 
grand Pear on cordon-trees, being 
very large, highly-coloured, and of 
rich flavour : end of November. 
Beurre Hardy is very fine on all 
forms of trees, excellent as a cordon, 
and of fine quality ; October. 
Beurre Mortillet is a new variety, a 
good grower and bearer, of first- 
FiG. 663.— Pear Thompson's, rate flavour, very large, and is 

sure to be largely grown in the 
future ; September. Beurre Superfin is a well-known delicious 
and prolific variety ; November. Bon Chretien (Williams), 
a well-known favourite, ripe in August ; but to get it at 
its best the fruit should be picked a little before it is 




ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



1029 




/ 



fully ripe, and placed in a fruit-room to finish — not on a 
vinery or greenhouse shelf, as is frequently done. Clapp's 
Favourite cannot be termed first-class in flavour, but it is useful 
for its earliness, large size, splendid appearance, and free-bearing ; 
August. Directeur Hardy is 
a new variety that is said to 
be of superior merit and a 
great bearer of large fruit ; 
November. Doyenne du 
Comice is probably the finest 
Pear in cultivation, surpassing 
the well-known Marie Louise, 
and may be strongly recom- 
mended as a cordon or trained 
tree against a wall, pro- 
ducing heavy crops of large, 
handsome fruit ; November. 
Duchesse d'Angouleme is only 
valuable for exhibition pur- 
poses ; the fruit is very large, 
and freely produced, but de- 
cidedly second-rate in flavour ; 
November. Durondeau is a 
very handsome Pear, of good 
size, delicious flavour, and a 
great cropper ; October. Glou 
Morceau is a valuable variety, 
and should be left on the 
tree until beginning to fall ; 
it will then afford a supply 
of fruit of excellent quality 
about Christmas and the New 
Year. Le Lectier is a new 
variety, promising to be a 
great acquisition ; small cordon- 
trees have borne large fruit, 
of fine flavour, ready for 

use in February. Louise Bonne de Jersey is a well-known and 
reliable variety, and though it bears profusely as a cordon, we 
consider it best flavoured from bush or standard trees ; October. 
Marie Louise is another universal favourite, succeeding well as a 
cordon; November. ]Marie Benoist is a large, fine-flavoured 
variety, fruiting abundantly: December. Magnate, a large, hand- 
some variety, a good grower and bearer ; October. ^Marguerite 
Marrillat, a new, very large, handsome variety, of delicious flavour ; 
September. Nouvelle Fulvie is large, but not handsome, of 
good flavour, and a heavy cropper ; January and February. Pit- 
maston Duchess, of enormous size on cordon-trees, fine golden 





Fig. 664.— Pear Conferexce. 



I030 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 





yellow, of good shape, and fairly rich flavour, indispensable for 
exhibition ; October and November. Souvenir du Congres, a 
very large, handsome variety, of first-class flavour; August. All 
the above answer admirably as cordon or any other form of 
trained trees planted against a wall, and are free bearers of 
large, handsome fruit, suited for exhibition. To have the fruit 
thoroughly developed, all deformed or badly-placed fruit should 
be pulled off while small, taking care not to over-crop, and 

feeding the bearing trees 
occasionally with diluted 
liquid manure or some of 
the prepared manures adver- 
tised. 

The following are smaller 
varieties of excellent quality 
succeeding on cordon or 
trained trees. Baronne de 
Mello, a delicious November 
Pear, a great bearer. Beurre 
Giffard, a rich - flavoured 
variety, ready for use early 
in August. Beurre d'Amanlis, 
^ large under good culture, of 
excellent flavour, and a free 
bearer ; September and Oc- 
\ tober. Beurre Goubault, an 
enormous cropper and of 
\ good flavour ; September. 
Doyenne d'£te, a delicious 
little variety ; ripe in July, 
and should always be eaten 
from the tree, for if kept 
a few days the fruit is 
# mealy in taste. Fondante 

d'i\utomne, a very fine Oc- 
tober Pear of the highest 
Fig. 665. — Pear Leon Leclerc. quality, and a heavy cropper. 

Jargonelle, a delicious variety 
in its season, but not suitable to grow as a cordon. 
Josephine de Malines, one of the most valuable Pears. The 
tree bears most profusely in all forms, and the fruit is rich 
and late, generally in use about February or March. 
Knight's Monarch is first rate on many soils, and is in 
use at the same time as the last-named. Seckle is an 
exquisite little variety, but more suited for bush or standard 
trees. Thompson's (Fig, 663) is a grand variety when against 
a warm wall, the flavour being very rich and distinct; 
November. Winter Nelis is a valuable mid-winter variety ; 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



I031 



the tree should have a warm 
position, when the fruit is of 
the highest quahty. 

All the varieties mentioned 
will succeed not only as 
cordon or other trained trees, 
but also as bushes or pyra- 
mids, except those recom- 
mended to be planted against 
a warm wall ; these would be 
doubtful as trees in the open, 
unless the locality were 
specially favourable. The 
warmest and most sheltered 
position in the garden should 
be chosen for the bush or 
pyramid Pear-trees, as they 
are easily injured by cold 
winds and frost, and every 
effort should be made to keep the trees healthy and vigorous 
without grossness. 

Standards. — In many parts of the country, 
and prolific trees when planted as standards. 

the case. 




Fig. 666. — Pear Beurre Anjou. 




advantage 



Fig. 667. — Pear Emile d'Heyst. 



Pears make large 
and where this is 
they might with 
be dotted about 
the pleasure-grounds or park 
as isolated specimens, or 
arranged in clumps. Regarded 
merely as objects of beauty, 
they are magnificent when in 
full blossom, and in many 
seasons they produce immense 
crops of fruit. Steivmg Pear 
have been much neglected by 
planters, yet the well-known 
and excellent stewing variety, 
Catillac, makes a large tree 
as a standard ; it is one of 
the hardiest and most fruitful 
sorts that can be grown, and 
should be much more exten- 
sively planted. And not only 
is it the best stewing Pear, but 
it also keeps well into March. 
Verulam is another stewing 
variety in use up to the end 
of March. The tree is a strong 
grower, hardy, and prolific. 



I032 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



The following are Dessert kinds that succeed admirably as 
standards on good soils : Beacon makes a good tree, and crops 

freely ; when the Pears are 
ripe in August, the tree is very 
effective, most of the fruit being 
highly coloured. Belle Julie is 
not a very handsome or a large 
fruit, but the tree is a free 
bearer, and the fruit of very 
pleasing flavour. Beurre d'Aman- 
lis is excellent in flavour, and 
quickly develops into a large, 
spreading tree on good soil. 
Clapp's Favourite is a tremendous 
cropper on standard trees, and 
is much improved in flavour 
when in ^an open situation. 
Colmar d'Ete is another great 
bearer ; the fruit is small but 
of exquisite quality. Dr. Jules 
Guyot is, like the last-named, 
a September Pear, but large, 
handsome, and a continuous 
bearer. Durondeau makes a 
splendid and fruitful tree, and 
should always be selected. Eye- 
wood Bergamot is another really 
first-rate variety, being hardy, strong, and a great bearer ; its 
delicious fruit is ready about November. Elton is a September 
or October variety ; the 
tree is hardy and vigorous, 
and the fruit of rich 
flavour. Louise Bonne de 
Jersey and Marie Louise 
d'Uccle are two October 
varieties, and are heavy 
bearers of large, handsome 
fruit. On warm soils Ne 
Plus Meuris is a desirable 
variety as a standard, fruit- 
ing freely, and ripening 
in February. The delicious 
little Seckle is a most pro- 
ductive variety, and well 
Worth planting. Aston 
Town is an old but' 




Fig. 668. — Pear Des Deux Sceurs. 




Fig. 669. — Pear Marie Guise. 



now somewhat rare variety of the highest quality; it ripens 
in September, and is one of the greatest bearers. 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. IO33 

Other good varieties for bush, wall, or standard trees are: 
Conference (October) (Fig. 664), Leon Leclerc (December) (Fig. 
665), Beurre Anjou (November) (Fig. 666), Emile d'Heyst 
(November) (Fig. 667), Des Deux Sceurs (October) (Fig. 668), 
and Marie Guise (February and March) (Fig. 669). 

With few exceptions the animal pests of Pears and Apples are 
identical. Of those which may be considered peculiar to the 
former is the Pear Midge {Diplosis pyrivora) and the Pear-leaf 
EHster Mite, responsible for the blisters (Fig. 670) which damage 




A 



Fig. 670. — Leaves of Pear Attacked by Blister Mite, 
(a) Leaf recently attacked ; (b) Leaf with Old Galls. 

the foliage. Each of these blisters has a minute hole in the 
centre below. At first the discolorations are red, but ultimately 
they are black. Removal of the infested leaves in spring and 
burning them is a laborious but certain method of lessening the 
attack another season, especially if this be followed early in the 
next year by spraying with a solution of kerosene emulsion — using 
one part of this to six parts of water. 

Diplosis pyrivora is a dipterous gnat-like fly, which appears 
in the early spring, the females depositing their eggs in the 



I034 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



unexpanded blossoms. The larvae when hatched enter the young 
fruit, hindering its growth, causing it to be deformed, to crack, 
and eventually to fall. The pupal state is assumed in the soil, 
and the insect passes the winter in that condition. Spraying 
with arsenite is not of much good, as to do so 
when the fruit-trees are in blossom would be to sacrifice the 
whole crop ; while, once the insects are in the young fruits, they 
are perfectly safe from insecticides. Preventive measures consist 
in the collection of the fallen fruits which show signs of infestation, 
and burning them before the larvae can enter the ground to 
pupate. In America, kainit, as a dressing under the trees in 
late summer, has been found of service, using it at the rate of 
half a ton per acre. The gnat is only 2mm. long, and the larva 
also about 2mm., yellowish, and footless. These larvae are very 
lively, and move by a series of jerks and bends much after the 
fashion of the aquatic larvae of certain relatives. Infested fruits 
which are hanging might readily be shaken on to sheets laid 
under the trees. 

Gymnosporangiuui sabince is a heteroecious fungus responsible 
for a peculiar disease, characterised by blotches of a yellowish- 
red colour in autumn. This is but one stage in the life-cycle. 
The dark-reddish teleutospores are developed on certain species 
of Jiniiper (of which the common kind is one) in spring. In 
combating this disease the difficulty lies in discovering the 
whereabouts of this host-plant. It may be in the garden of a 
neighbour, who might object to having his trees destroyed for 
what he may regard as a fad. The Pear-tree stage is sometimes 
known as Pear-leaf Rust {Roestellia cancellata). 

Plums and Damsons. 

In the Open. — Wherever the common Bullace will fruity 
Plums and Damsons will also succeed ; in fact, when the 
drainage is good, almost any soil will grow them well, although 
some varieties of Plums will not prove satisfactory in cold or 
exposed situations ; all the Gage class require a fairly warm soil 
and position. Others are reliable even in cold localities, and of 
these hardy varieties Dove Bank is a very good one. The Czar, 
White Magnum Bonum, A^ictoria, Orleans, and Sultan have all 
proved hardy and fruitful under what may be termed unfavourable 
conditions. Again, in Apple-growing counties, when old orchards 
are exhausted, it is a well-known fact that Apple-trees do not 
follow Apple-trees well ; but Plum-trees thrive splendidly after 
Apples, and also after Pears. Some growers even plant their 
Plum-trees between the Apples and Pears a few years before 
they abolish the latter, and in this way the Plums are in a 
bearing state by the time the other trees are cut down. It is 
unnecessary to state the distance that the trees should be apart, as 
the advice given as to how Apples should be planted is applicable 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



1035 



to Plums. Here it will suffice to state that standard Plums are 
useful trees to plant in the park or grounds for effect — not to the 
same extent as Apple-trees, but a few in clumps form a prett) 
group when in flower. 

The following varieties are excellent as standard trees for the 
above purpose or for planting in orchards : Belle de Louvain, an 
upright-growing, free-bearing variety, with very large, reddish- 
violet fruit ; it should prove a valuable market Plum, ripe in 
September. Cox's Emperor (Denbigh Seedling), a large, 
roundish, dull-red fruit, borne in profusion on strong, vigorous 
trees ; September. Early Prolific, a small, blue-black variety, very 
hardy, vigorous, and a great cropper ; July. Monarch, a com- 
paratively new variety, with very large black fruit, and promises 
to be a valuable kind on all forms of trees. Pond's Seedling, 
one of the largest-fruited varieties ; the trees are strong, hardy, 
and produce good crops of beautiful red fruit ; end of September. 
The popular old Victoria is a capital variety as a standard, 
always cropping well unless the seasons are very bad ; its large, 
reddish-pink fruits are alike valuable for home use or for 
market. 

Cordons. — Very few people are aware how wonderfully well the 
Plum succeeds as a cordon-tree, and what beautiful fruit is 
produced ; the bloom on the ripe fruit gathered from cordon-trees 
trained against a wall has an appearance like that seen on hot- 
house Grapes, and it is against walls or wooden fences that we would 
specially suggest planting cordon-trees, particularly those of the 
Gage class, amongst which the following are superb : Bonne Bouche, 
Bryanston Gage, Comte de Atthems, Denniston's Superb, New 
Early Transparent, New Late Transparent, Oullin's Golden, 
Reine Claude de Bavay, and Reine Claude Rouge. All the other 
sorts of Plums will also answer as cordon-trees, but those named 
above are the most deserving and richly flavoured. 

Bush or Pyramid Trees. — For these the under-mentioned 
varieties are very reliable on most soils ; they are placed in 
their order of ripening : Early Prolific, Czar, Early Orleans, The 
Sultan, Denniston's Superb, Belgian Purple, Transparent Gage, 
Victoria, Washington, Jefferson, Kirke's, Pond's Seedling, Monarch, 
Grand Duke, Coe's Golden Drop (on warm soils), and Wyedale. 
All the varieties of Plums named for cordon-, bush-, or pyramid- 
trees will answer famously as fan or other trained form of trees 
against walls. 

Damsons are very fruitful, whether as standards, half-standards, 
or bushes, and are of great service in forming shelter round the 
outskirts of the garden or fruit-plantation, Bradley's King 
(King of the Damsons), Hereford Prune, Frogmore Damson, 
Crittenden, and Shropshire Prune are all remarkably prolific 
varieties on any form of trees ; the first-named is perhaps the 
largest-fruited sort, but all are excellent. 



1036 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



The pruning of Plums or bush Damsons should first be done 
a little before the fruit commences to colour, thinning out the 
growth where congested, and cutting back to about five eyes 
any shoots that are not required to enlarge or develop the tree. 
The shoots left may remain nearly their full length unless very 
strong and likely to throw the head out of balance ; in that case 
they should be cut out entirely or shortened back. Plums on 
walls should have all fore-right shoots cut in to three or four 
buds, and the leading ones nailed in two or three times in the 
season. Plums or Damsons, in whatever form, are best finally 
pruned for the year immediately after all the fruit has been 
gathered ; in fact, all stone-fruit trees are better pruned then, as 
much gumming is caused by late pruning. 

Silver Leaf is a most puzzling disease, doubtless of fungoid 
origin, found upon Plums, Greengages, Peaches, Sloes, Birdcherries, 
and Portugal Laurels. It is most destructive. The foliage 
of the affected trees turn silvery on their upper surface, and 
somewhat sickly-looking, yellowish, on the under-surface. Very 
frequently the upper cuticle separates from the other leaf 
portions. The fruits become brown, and are shed in large 
quantities, and the disease seems to spread rather rapidly. The 
specific fungus responsible for the mischief has yet to be dis- 
covered, but it is believed to be a near relative of Exoascus 
deformans^ already referred to under Peaches. The treatment 
found of most avail is to lift the trees at the proper season — 
when inactive — and dress the soil with sulphate of iron ; or the 
afiected portions may be cut out. Root-pruning has also in 
certain cases proved beneficial. In this latter case the " wood " 
must be the guide to the gardener. 

Though these fruits have many animal foes, few of those that 
may fairly be entitled to be classed as pests are identified only 
with the Plum : the majority, in fact, are general feeders. The 
very locally distributed Xyleborus dispar is now and again 
reported to tunnel into Plum-trees in this country, but the 
writer (though an old coleopterist) has never yet met with the 
creature in either orchards or gardens. Kollar refers to its 
ravages on the Continent, calls it the Apple Bark Beetle, and 
describes it under the generic name of Bostrichus. 

Closely allied to the Codlin ]Moth is a species known as the 
Plum IMoth, or Plum Tortrix {Opadia funebrand). The Moth is 
barely |in. in width, and is on the wing in summer. The eggs 
are laid upon the young fruits, and, when the larvae hatch out, 
they burrow^ into the Plums, causing them to colour immaturely 
and to fall. The larvse are of a pale-reddish colour, with a 
black head ; they escape from the fruit, and pass the winter 
under the bark, pupating in the following spring. Insecticides 
are useless unless they are sprayed on before the pests have 
entered the fruit. Prevention is best ; and the grower should 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



1037 



carefully collect and burn all fruits which fall early in the season. 
He should also shake the trees to dislodge any fruit attacked 
which are holding on. The bark should be carefully treated 
when the trees are at rest in winter, using caustic potash and 
soda, as elsewhere advised. 

Though the Brindle Beauty Moth {Biston liirtaj-iiis, Fig. 671) 
is usually regarded as partial to Oak and to Elm, yet it now and 

again appears as a pest to Plum- 
and less often to Pear-growers. 
The Moth has greyish - brown 
forewings, with irregular trans- 
verse markings and slightly paler 
hindwings. The larva is reddish- 
brown or purplish-brown, relieved 

by a yellowish- 
brown band 
and yellowish 
dots. It is 
found in 
early summer. 
Spraying with 
Paris Green is 
the best re- 
medy, as the 
c a t e rp i liars 
are voracious 
eaters. They 

pupate beneath the soil and remain there until the next season. 

Belonging to the genus Exoascus, one species of v/hich has 
already been noticed as injurious to Peach-trees, causing Leaf- 
Curl, is a fruit-deforming kind, E. priini. This is responsible for 
the Pocket Plums or Bladder Plums. The latter is a most 
appropriate name, as affected Plums resemble a blown-out bladder. 
The disease attacks the young fruit, which undergoes modifications 
quite deforming it and rendering it useless. Such Bladder 
Plums are tough, wrinkled, greenish-yellow, or reddish and stone- 
less, and in late summer are covered with a glaucous powdery 
substance, by means of which the disease is spread. Unfor- 
tunately, the mycelium is of perennial duration, and therefore it 
is not sufficient to destroy the Bladder Plums. Professor Mar- 
shall Ward recommends, in his excellent little work upon " Plant 
Diseases," to prune back to the old wood. Spraying with Bordeaux 
Mixture two or three times at intervals early in the season would 
act as a preventive to this and many other fungoid diseases. 




Fig. 671. 



-Caterpillar and Perfect Insect of 
Brindle Beauty Moth. 



Quinces. 

In the Open. — Unlike most fruit trees, the Quince succeeds 
best in moist soils or situations, and is therefore at home by the 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



sides of lakes or streams. The best varieties are the Apple- 
Shaped, Pear-Shaped, and Meech's Prolific. Champion and 
Reay's Mammoth are new varieties that cannot be recommended 
until they have been tested for a few more years. 

Raspberries. 

In the Open. — In many gardens Raspberries are not the 
success they should be, owing to the natural character of the soil, 
or to their being planted in too hot and dry a position. To get 
the best results, it is essential that the situation be cool and moist, 
yet not waterlogged, at the roots ; for that reason the plants 
make better growth, and the fruit is larger and borne in greater 
profusion on somewhat heavy soils than on light, hot, sandy ones. 
The plants also quickly become exhausted on thin, hot soils, 
unless annually mulched with good farmyard manure ; and, even 
then, it is wise to make a new plantation every four or five years, 
selecting fresh soil for the plants. 

Before planting, the ground should be thoroughly cleansed of 
all noxious weeds, such as Couch-Grass or Convolvulus, and the 
ground deeply worked. Planting may be done at any time 
between the end of October and the middle of March, when the 
soil is in a good working condition. The canes or stools should 
be placed in clumps of three (if single canes) in the form of a 
triangle, and there should be 5ft. each way between the clumps. 
In March the canes should all be cut down to within 6in. of the 
soil ; this may appear a drastic measure, but it is a wise one, as 
unless it is done, weak canes are produced, and a whole season is 
practically lost. On the other hand, by catting down the canes 
as advised, stout vigorous ones are made that will yield an 
abundant crop of fruit the following year. It should always be 
borne in mind that the Raspberry is a surface-rooting plant, and 
to dig amongst the canes destroys a large quantity of the finest 
and best roots, indirectly acting detrimentally on the health and 
vigour of the canes ; therefore only the surface-hoeing necessary 
to keep down weeds is advisable. A mulch of farmyard manure 
should be applied annually in the spring, to feed the surface roots 
and thus maintain the strength of the plants ; this mulch and the 
frequent use of the Dutch hoe will also assist materially in 
conserving moisture in the soil, and the hoeing will expose the 
larvae of insect foes to the keen eyes of birds or poultry. 

The pruning should, if possible, be done immediately after the 
fruit has been picked, cutting out all the old fruiting canes and most 
of the weak ones, and leaving only about seven of the strongest 
canes to each stool or clump. If more are permitted to remain, 
the growth becomes congested in the following season, and the 
fruit is neither so fine nor so plentiful. Market-growers do not 
stake their canes, but simply shorten them back a little, and as 
they always liberally manure, their canes are strong and able 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



1039 



to support a crop of fruit without the aid of stakes, &c. — an 
example that might be imitated by private growers in many 
instances. 

In selecting varieties to plant, the comparatively new sort, 
Superlative, is a great acquisition ; not only are the canes prac- 
tically self-supporting by reason of their stoutness, but the variety 
is an abundant bearer of large, handsome fruit of excellent 
quality. For small gardens, or where tall-growing Raspberries 
are objectionable. Carter's Prolific is a most desirable sort, the 
canes being of moderate height, strong, and bearing heavy crops 
of large, sweet fruit. Norwich Wonder is a favourite variety with 
market people, being a strong-growing and remarkably fruitful 
sort, and seldom failing to produce good crops of large, highly- 
coloured fruit. Northumberland Fillbasket is another sterling 
variety very similar to the last-named, and alike valuable for 
home use or market purposes. Semper Fidelis is a rather later 
fruiting variety than any of the above, and is only useful for 
cooking, not being sweet enough for dessert, but it is a good 
bearer. Yellow Antwerp and White Magnum Bonum are in 
use with the varieties already named, but except for giving a 
change in the colour of the fruit for dessert, they are not worth 
planting, as they never carry such good crops as the red-fruited 
varieties. 

Where autumn Raspberries are appreciated, the variety named 
Four Seasons is the best to plant; in November, 1897, we 
frequently picked good dishes of fine sweet fruit. These autumn- 
fruiting kinds bear on the young wood of the current year's 
growth. All the very weak, useless canes should be cut out 
early in the season, and the vigour thrown into the best and 
stoutest canes, thus inducing them to produce large fruit 
freely. 

The Raspberry Beetle {Bytiiriis tomentosiis) is most trouble- 
some to the grower. The damage is twofold, the Beetle eating 
the flowers and the larvae the fruit. The 
Beetle is -Jin. long and reddish or brownish, 
.and intensely downy (Fig. 672); the larva _ ^' " 

is yellowish, with a paler head. Little can '^"^^wllk^ 
be done in the case of the larvae ; but the y^^H\ 
Beetles, on a dull day, may be shaken from 
the trees on to tarred boards or paper, and /^^Sl 
afterwards collected and destroyed. Careful J ^Km y 

search should also be made for the cocoons 

which are in the bark. All infested fruit yig. 672.— Raspberry 
should be burnt, as should all old canes Beetle. 
removed at pruning time. 

Lampronia rubiella (Raspberry Moth) also does much damage 
alike to young fruits and shoots. The Moths are under ^in. in 
stretch of wings, and brown with yellowish dots and spots. The 



1040 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



eggs are laid in summer in the flowers of the Raspberry, and the 
red larvae live in the fruit until they are full-fed, when they spin 
a cocoon for themselves in which they remain all the winter, 
coming out in spring to wage war upon the young buds and 
shoots. The only way to combat the pest is to pick off all 
drooping shoots and promptly burn them. Insecticides are 
useless. 

Raspberry Rust {^Phragmidium i-nbi-idcei) is fairly common in 
spring on the upper surfaces of the leaves. These are covered 
with yellowish dots, which eventually become almost black. 
Dusting with flowers of sulphur is useful. The disease, however, 
is not usually regarded as of a very destructive character. 

Strawberries. 

In the Open. — Perhaps no kind of fruit is more universally 
grown than the Strawberry, as it accommodates itself to all sorts and 
conditions of soil, and always rewards the cultivator for any special 
attention bestowed upon it. Even on light, hot soils, gardeners 
are, by careful management and judicious manuring, able to 
obtain more or less satisfactory crops of delicious fruit. On good, 
rich, loamy soil it is an easy matter to grow really magnificent 
fruit with a minimum of trouble ; but on light soils the case is 
different, and close attention must be paid to the plants at all 
times in order to procure full crops of luscious fruit. In the 
first place the land must be deeply dug, and manure of a heavy 
nature (such as cowdung in a fresh state) worked in w^hile 
digging. Sewage, sludge, or marl, are all useful to dig in, as they 
are close, and help to make the soil heavier and more retentive 
of moisture. Stable manure is not advisable (unless no other is 
procurable), as being light and porous, it has a tendency to 
make the soil still lighter. On tenacious, heavy soil the con- 
ditions are reversed, and strawy manure (such as that from stables) 
is the best to dig or trench in, as it assists to lighten the 
soil and render it more friable and porous, while adhesive 
manure, like that from coW'S, would have a contrary effect. 
Nothing will equal the good judgment of the cultivator in 
deciding which manure is the most suitable for his particular 
soil, but of whatever character it may be, trenching or deep- 
digging is advisable. The manure should not be spared. On 
light, thin soils the beds will be exhausted in two or three years, 
and on deep, heavy good land they will remain satisfactory for 
six or seven years. 

Every efl'ort should be made to plant new beds as early in 
August as young plants can be procured, as then they have suffi- 
cient time to form good crowns during the autumn, and a crop 
of large berries is produced the next season. If this operation 
is postponed, the plants have not time to become properly 
rooted before winter sets in, and no fruit is borne the following 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



IO41 



year. The distance apart at which to plant varies a httle with the 
nature of the soil : if light and hot the rows may be 2ft. 
apart, and the plants i8in. from each other in the 
rows ; on deep and rich soil the rows should be 2^ft. to 3ft. 
apart, and there should be i8in. between the plants. Care must 
be taken not to plant too deeply, simply inserting the runners up 
to the lower leaves without burying the crown, and making 
the soil thoroughly firm about the plant. If the weather or soil 
is dry a good soaking of water should be given after planting, to 
settle the soil about the roots and give the plants a start. All 
runners that form should be promptly removed, and weeds should 
be kept down with a Dutch hoe during the autumn months. 

In spring, when new growth is being made, a good mulch 01 
strawy manure is advisable ; this will conserve moisture, feed 
the roots, and also prove a very suitable material for the runners 
to strike roots in — that is if required to increase the stock — 
otherwise all runners should be cut off, as they rob the plant and 
fruit. Immediately the fruit is set, diluted liquid manure or a 
little nitrate of soda put between the rows will act beneficially 
on the plants and swell the fruit considerably ; but all stimulants 
should cease when the fruit commences to colour or the flavour 
will be impaired. The above method should be carried out 
annually until the beds exhibit signs of being worn out. A fresh 
plantation should then be made on land that has not had the 
same fruit on it for some years, as Strawberries should on no 
account follow Strawberries on the same ground : it is only 
courting failure through disease and insect foes. 

There are quite a host of varieties to select from. Many of 
them are of no value, while others are excellent in every respect. 
Amongst the latter. Royal Sovereign is a magnificent and early 
sort, bearing very heavy crops of large and delicious fruit. Countess 
is a rare variety of the finest flavour on light soils, but not so 
good on cold soils ; where it succeeds it is one of the best 
Strawberries. President, though an old variety, is still first-rate, 
and worthy of a position in every garden by reason of its heavy 
crops of richly-flavoured fruit. Sir Joseph Paxton is a favourite 
mid-season variety, and well maintains its good reputation. 
British Queen is well known for its exquisite flavour, but it is 
not always a success, as it requires a good warm soil to grow 
it well. Veitch's Perfection is a new variety of the richest flavour 
and will supersede Waterloo as a late variety, being more fruitful 
and of better colour and flavour. 

Alpine Straivberries. — It is somewhat remarkable that the 
sweet and extremely useful Alpine Strawberry is not more exten- 
sively grown, more especially in the gardens of the wealthy, as 
the fruit comes into use at a season when Strawberries are very 
rare — viz., the late autumn — and thus provides a welcome change 
in the dessert. Seed may be purchased from several of the 

3 X 



1042 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



leading seed firms — notably Messrs. Sutton and Sons, of Reading 
— and should be sown early in March in boxes of light, rich soil 
in gentle heat. When the germination is well advanced, the 
seedlings should be gradually removed to a cold frame, and 
early in May should be planted out, ift. apart, in good soil on 
a somewhat shaded border, encouraging growth by copious supplies 
of water overhead and at the roots during dry or hot weather. 




Fig. 673. — Forced Straavberry Plants in Flower 



Failing the possession of glass to raise the seedlings earl}', the 
seed may be sown on a warm border early in April, and the 
seedlings planted out when large enough to handle. In the 
autumn many dishes of pleasing and refreshing fruit will be 
forthcoming. It is advisable to throw away the old plants when 
they have done fruiting, and to raise fresh stock from seed 
every year : much finer and better fruit is thus produced. 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



1043 



Under Glass. — To force Strawberries early it is essential to 
propagate the plants as early as possible in the summer by 
means of runners. The first plant formed on the runner should 
be pegged into a ^ small "sixty "pot of rich soil, and the point of 
the runner nipped out to throw all the energy into the embryo 
plant. Watering must be daily attended to, and every encourage- 
ment given to the little plant to induce it to grow well and fill 
its pot wMth roots. When it is seen that the plant has rooted 
well it should be transferred to its fruiting-pot — one 6in. in 
diameter is plenty large enough— employing a compost of three 
parts good fibrous loam and one part spent horse-droppings, with 




Fig. 674. — Forced Strawberry Plants in Fruit. 



a little fine bone-meal added, the whole being thoroughly 
mixed. The pots must be well drained — a few inverted oyster- 
shells are excellent, if covered with a little moss or leaves to 
prevent the drainage from choking. If a pinch of soot is 
thrown in at the same time worms will not prove troublesome. 
Firm potting is essential to insure good crowns and full crops, 
leaving a space of about -|in. at the top of the pot for water. 
When potted, the plants should have a sunny, open position, 
and if stood on boards, so much the better ; they should be 
w^atered carefully, extremes of dryness or wetness being avoided. 
A good syringing overhead after a hot day will benefit the 
plants, and assist in keeping insects at bay. On the a])proach 

3x2 



I044 



THE UOOK OF GARDENING. 



of frost it is an excellent plan to plunge the pots up to their 
rims in coal-ashes in cold frames. Some growers do not trouble 
much about watering the plants when thus plunged, but it is a 
mistake to allow the soil to become dry and separated from the 
pots, the result being that the plants are weakened and the 
trusses of flowers lack vigour. When required for starting, the 
pots should be washed and placed as near the glass as possible 




Fig. 675. — Forced Strawberries with Foliage removed ox accouxt 

OF Red Spider Attack. 

in a temperature not exceeding 45deg. ; indeed, this should not be 
much raised by means of fire-heat until the flower-spikes appear. 
Then 5deg. or lodeg. more may be given, but as much air 
as possible should be admitted without causing a draught or 
lowering the temperature below 5odeg. when in flower (Fig. 
673) : this will assist in obtaining a good set of fruit. Imme- 
diately the fruit is set, more heat may be given, maintaining a 



ON FRUIT CULTURE. 



1045 



against 



in 



syringinsjs 
where all 



growing atmosphere, feeding the roots with liquid manure, 
and keeping down insect pests by syringing freely at all 
times except when the plants are in flower. Aphides may be 
kept at bay while the fruit is ripening by means of fumigation. 
When the fruit is ripening (Fig. 674) supplies of liquid manure 
should cease. 

Red Spider is one of the greatest foes to contend 
forcing Strawberries, and unless checked by frequent 
it will ruin the foliage. This is shown in Fig. 675, 
the leaves have had to be removed. 

Strawberries outside are attacked by two or three species 
of voracious Ground-Beetles, which, forsaking for a time their 
carnivorous diet, feast upon the ripening fruit. Harpalus riifi- 
coniis. a very common Beetle, is one that is found in enormous 
numbers in Strawberry-beds, the mulching usually provided 
affording it a safe harbourage in the daytime. It feeds at night. 
The insect is about ^in. long, flattish, and dark as to colour. 
Indeed, the head and thorax are quite black, and the only relief 
to its general sombre colouring are the red legs, antennse, and 
the down upon its wing-cases. The larval state is passed 
beneath the soil. This insect is winged, 

contrary to what is usual in the Ground- ' 

Beetles found in this country. 

Pte7'0stichus {Sieropus) 7nadidus (Fig. 676) 
is even commoner than the Harpalus^ and 
is altogether a larger insect, reaching |in, 
long It is shiny black, ovate, convex, 
with a distinct furrow in the back, and 
much streaked. The legs of this insect 
are sometimes red. The Beetle is very 
common in gardens and is wingless. Equally 
conimon is Calathiis cisteloides, another 
wingless insect, but swift of foot. It is 
black, approaches ^in. in length, and is 
very fond of sheltering beneath stones and 
fallen leaves. The above, with perhaps Zabrus 
gibhus and a few of the Sunshiners {Anmra) 
are the exceptions in the family Cara- 
bid(B to those feeding exclusively upon flesh. 

In the case of a small garden the 
Beetles may be hand-picked by dislodging them from their hiding- 
places during the day ; but where there are acres of the fruit 
under cultivation something less laborious would necessarily have 
to be adopted. The paste known as the Magic, if properly 
distributed, soon thins them down ; or Ramsden's Beetle Paste 
may be employed. 

The other animal pests are those which feed upon other 
crops as well, and will be dealt with separately. 




Fig. 676. — Ptero- 
stichus madtdus. 



1046 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

Several fungoid diseases affect the Strawberry, one of the 
commonest being the Leaf-Spot {Sphce7'ella fragarice). The 
common name gives a clue to the chief characteristic of the 
disease — the spots on the foliage. These occur on the upper 
surface, and increase in size and colour as the different stages 
are reached ; usually they coalesce. They are at first dark 
purplish ; then the central portion lightens until it is nearly 
white, and the blotches by this time are of large size, and 
practically the whole leaf-surface is discoloured. When this is 
the case, the foliage is shed, and in very bad cases the plants 
die. In America the somewhat heroic treatment of mowing the 
plantation after the crop has been gathered, and then firing the 
tops by the aid of straw, is adopted ; but the remedy when 
suggested here was regarded as worse than the disease. There 
seems, however, to be little doubt as to its efficacy, and it is 
well worthy of a trial, followed the next season by spraying with 
Bordeaux Mixture. In America the disease is called the Straw- 
berry Leaf Blight, and those who would like to peep farther into 
its life-history should read Prof. Scribner's article in the Report 
of the United States Department of Agriculture. 

Vines. — See "Grapes." 

Walnuts. 

In the Open. — Almost all soils will grow Walnuts. Unfortu- 
nately our ancestors did not always plant the best varieties, as 
some of the large trees about the country produce nuts of small 
size, with very thick, hard shells. Noyer a Bijou is a variety with 
large nuts, having thin shells, and of good flavour. Thin-shelled 
is another fine sort, and a heavy cropper ; Franquette is also 
excellent on deep, warm soils. All the above develop into large 
and beautiful trees ; but if a small-growing Walnut is desired. 
Dwarf Prolific will supply the need, for, as its name indicates, 
it is dwarf and prolific, and makes a fruitful bush. , 




Lackfa' Moth. 



^^. ~0n Vegetable 

Trevor Monmouth. CultUfe . 

To obtain tender vegetables of a sufficiently high quality to 
give perfect satisfaction at home, or to win prizes at horticultural 
exhibitions, the soil must in the first instance be properly pre- 
pared by deep digging or trenching and liberal treatment with 
good manure. As regards trenching, the mode in which it 
ought to be done depends almost entirely on the character of 
the soil and sub-soil. With a heavy soil and a cold, tenacious 
sub-soil, bastard trenching is the best : this consists of turning 
over the lower spit and mixing therewith strawy manure, 
road-scrapings, or vegetable refuse Such treatment will improve 
its character, and make it more porous, while the surface soil 
is still retained on the top, leaving it as rough as possible. On 
soil of a loamy nature several feet deep it is a good plan to 
turn the -svhole right over to the depth of 2ft., i.e.^ bringing the 
bottom to the surface and placing the surface soil at the bottom, 
incorporating manure at the same time. In this way a fine 
root-run is provided for the vegetables, the drainage is improved, 



1048 



THE EOOK OF GARDENING. 



and vegetables of all kinds thrive famously in wet or dry 
seasons. When the ground is dug one spit deep year after year 
the root-run is very limited, owing to the hard pan formed, which 
is impervious to the descent or ascent of water, and there is 
nothing to marvel at in the crops being unsatisfactory or col- 
lapsing entirely. If one-fourth of the garden is trenched every 
winter, the labour will scarcely be felt, and in four years the whole 
will have been done, and another commencement can be made. 
The results will amply repay for the extra labour, and the produce 
will be of such a high order that it may be relied upon not to 
disgrace the grower anywhere. Next in importance to deep 
cultivation is the constant moving of the surface soil during the 
growing season. All vegetables seem to heartily enjoy this form 
of cultivation : not only are weeds kept down, but moisture is 
conserved, and the soil kept in the most favourable condition 
for root action. By the above system the writer has secured 
honours at leading shows in all parts of the kingdom and supplied 
large establishments with daily supplies of vegetables in con- 
siderable variety at a moderate outlay in seeds and labour. 

Artichokes. 

Globe Ai'tichokes (Fig. 677) are easily propagated by seeds 
sown in deeply-worked and rich soil in March or early in 

April. Select a well- 
drained sunny site, 




and sow the seed 
very thinly. Four 
feet apart is a suit- 
able distance be- 
tween the plants, 
and to that distance 



be thinned. 



Keep down 
weeds, and 
give one or two 
soakings of 
liquid manure 
during the 
summer. On 
the approach 
of frosty 
weather the 
base of the 



the young 
plants should 



Fig. 677. — Globe Artichoke. 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



1049 



plants should have some coal-ashes or litter placed close up to the 
hearts to protect them, removing the same in spring. There 
is little difference between the Green Globe and the Purple 
Globe, both varieties being satisfactory when well grown. 

Jerusalem Artichokes (Fig. 678) are seldom the success they 
could be made if better cultivated. As a rule, they are planted in 
the worst part of the garden, but \vhen given an open, sunny 
position, with sufficient room for development, and a rich soil, 
the tubers are not only freely produced, but are also large and of 
superior flavour. To grow 
them well, the ground should 
be deeply dug and w^ell 
manured in the autumn or 
winter, incorporating fresh 
or green manure, and leaving 
the soil on the surface as 
rough as possible. At the 
end of February or early in 
March, when the soil is in 
good working order, the Fig. 678. — Jerusalem Artichokes. 
tubers should be planted in 

lines 3ft. apart, allowing i8in. between the tubers in the lines. 
When about Sin. high, the plants should have the soil drawn up 
to them, as with Potatoes, and weeds should be kept down 
during the summer. When the tops die back in the autumn all 
the tubers may be carefully lifted and stored in a cool, frost- 
proof shed, the same as other root crops. 

Asparagus. 

It is now well known that very fine Asparagus may be grown 
without going to the expense formerly incurred in taking out 
soil to the depth of several feet and replacing with expensive 
compost. Providing the drainage is good, any fairly porous soil 
can be made to grow Asparagus as easily as any other vegetable. 
If the soil is sandy or a good porous loam, deep digging and 
liberal manuring in the autumn or winter will be preparation 
enough. When the soil is clayey or tenacious, however, the addi- 
tion of material to make it more porous is essential — sand, road- 
scrapings or parings, ashes from burnt rubbish, and strawy 
manure, are all excellent. In digging or trenching, the surface soil 
should be left as rough as possible, thus fully exposing it to the 
action of the weather. By the end of March the soil will be in 
a nice crumbly condition, and in capital order for seed-sowing. 
Beds may be made 5ft. wide, a drill being drawn down the 
centre, and on each side another drill should be drawn i8in. from 
the middle one, or ift. from the side. Thin sowing is advisable, 
as the plants ought to be thinned out to i8in. apart in the rows 
when large enough. The after-treatment consists in keeping 




1050 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



down weeds by hand and in giving an occasional dressing of 
salt or kainit at the rate of 20z. to the square yard during the 
growing season. Another method is to sow in drills i^lt. or 2ft, 
apart on level ground, without any beds or alleys, thinning out the 
plants as above advised when large enough. In the spring a 
mulch of rich farmyard manure applied to the bed or plantation 
exercises a powerful influence on the growth, and conserves 
moisture in the soil during hot weather. Some growers apply the 
mulch in the autumn, after the tops have died and been cleared 
away, but there is no doubt that spring mulching is more 
beneficial. 

If new beds are to be made by planting, and not from seed, 
the best time to start is when new shoots have been made lin. 
or 2in. in length, taking care that the roots are kept moist while 
out of the soil, spreading them out evenly in planting, and giving 
a thorough soaking of water immediately afterwards if the soil or 
weather is dry. No shoots or "grass" should be cut from 
plants raised from seed before the third year after sowing, and 
even then the cutting should be light. 

For growing outside or for forcing few varieties will equal 
Connover's Colossal, which is closely followed by Argenteuil 
Giant. The latter is largely grown in France, much of the 
"grass" finding its way to our markets. 

Asparagus cultivators are seriously troubled by the attacks of a 
small (^in.) but 'very handsome Beetle {Crioceris aspa?'agi) and 
its larvae. The Beetle is bluish-black or greenish, bordered with 
red ; the thorax is red, and the wing-cases have a black cross 
formed by the suture and a branch on either side, and three 
yellowish spots at their margins. The perfect insects are 
found in summer, and the females deposit their eggs on the 
stems of the plants. The larvae are greyish or greenish, and 
have black feet and head. Both grub and perfect insect are 
destructive. Hand-picking is best for the former, and a kerosene 
emulsion for the latter. Afte?' the season is over, powdered 
hellebore may be dusted on the plants. 

Beans. 

Although Broad Beans will thrive on almost all soils, that 
which is somewhat heavy is best suited for the production of 
heavy crops and the finest pods ; consequently the heaviest 
portion of the garden should be selected for them. Ground that 
has been moderately or well manured during the winter will be 
in good condition for the reception of the seed. Sow the first 
crop early in February, and at intervals of three weeks up to 
the end of March for successional supplies ; alter that date it is 
little good sowing, as the weather is unfavourable to good 
produce. The seed should be sown in drills about 3in. deep, 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



IO51 



in double lines, and the rows 3ft. apart, with 6in. between 
the seeds. This is ample space between the rows, whether 
double or single. As the plants progress, soil should be drawn 
up to them on each side of the row. Immediately it is seen 
that the flowers are set, and embryo pods formed, it is an 
excellent plan to pinch out the points of the plants. This assists 
the pods to swell, and keeps Black Fly in check. If exhibition 
pods are wanted, the plants ought not only to be fed with liquid 
or solid farmyard manure, but also staked, and each permitted 
to carry only about three of the straightest and longest pods. 
The Long-pod section has much the longest pods, Veitch's 
Exhibition, Leviathan, and the Early Long-pod being the best, in 
the order named, for home or exhibition purposes. If extra 
good flavour is desired, the shorter-podded Green Windsor is the 
best of all. 

Dwarf or French Kidney Beans. — This n:iost productive 
vegetable should be sown in drills and at the same distances 
apart as advised for Broad Beans on any rich and deeply- 
worked soil. Make the first sowing in the middle of April, and 
another sowing a month later, selecting such a variety as Ne 
Plus Ultra for the first, and Canadian Wonder for the second 
sowing. These are great croppers, the pods being long, hand- 
some, and tender, and very suitable for home use or for exhibition. 
As these Beans are both gross feeders and heavy bearers, 
frequent applications of diluted liquid manure are very sustaining 
to the plant when cropping ; but what is of as much or more 
importance is the careful removal of all pods when large enough 
for use. When once the pods have commenced to form seeds, 
the whole energy of the plant is devoted to reproduction, and 
no further crop is obtainable. 

Scarlet or Rumier Beans. — To obtain heavy crops of this 
universally esteemed vegetable the ground should be deeply dug 
and heavily manured ; or shallow trenches should be prepared, 
in which place a layer about 6in. deep of well-decayed farm- 
yard manure, with several inches of good soil on the manure. 
On this the seeds may be arranged about 6in. apart in double 
lines in the row, and the rows at least 6ft. apart; or if possible 
it is better to isolate the rows, thus giving more light to both 
sides. It is seldom safe to sow the seed before the end of 
April, and as it germinates the young growth should be protected 
from Slugs by dusting the soil with soot or air-slaked lime, 
otherwise all the plants will probably disappear. Soil should 
also be drawn up to each side of the row when the plants 
are large enough, and stout sticks put in for the growth 
to cling to. If the flowers seem to set badly, or the plants 
appear to languish, a thorough soaking of liquid manure in a 
diluted form will put matters right, providing the pods are 
not allowed to go to seed. Chelsea Giant White, Hill's Prize 



1052 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Exhibition, and Neal's Ne Plus Ultra are all abundant croppers, 
with long, handsome pods, first-rate for home use or exhibition 
purposes. 

Broad Beans are virulently attacked by Black Fly {see "Aphides'^ 
in Chapter " On Pests Generally ") ; while occasionally Kidney 
Beans are infested with what is know^n as Bean Anthracnose 
{Colletotric/ium Lindemiithianuni). On the Continent and in 
America this disease is far more prevalent. It is characterised 
by a spotting of the leaves, stems, and also of the pods. The 
spots are brown, with reddish margins, and depressed. They are 
small at first, but usually coalesce. The seeds are sometimes 
involved, and, on this account, it is injudicious to save those 
from infected quarters. They have dark sunken spots. If the 
disease is noted early, spraying wnth weak Bordeaux Mixture will 
prevent it from spreading. Affected pods and leaves should all 
be removed and burned. 

Beet. 

Frequently this most useful vegetable or salad is too big 
and coarse for home purposes, owing to too early sowing or to 
recent heavy manuring. The soil most suited to Beet is 
land which has been manured for a previous crop, such as Celery 
or Onions, as fresh manure causes the roots to become forked 
or coarse. If the soil is dug up roughly in the early winter, it 
will be in a nice friable state by the end of April or early in 
May, which is a suitable time to sow for moderate-sized and 
tender roots. Make the drills about ift. apart and lin. deep, 
and level all down evenly when covering the seeds. As the 
plants appear in the rows, they should be thinned out to about 
6in. or Sin. apart, and afterwards kept free from weeds by 
hoeing. In the autumn, before sharp frost can touch the plants, 
all the roots should be lilted, taking special care not to injure 
or break them, otherwise they will "bleed" and be of bad colour 
when cooked. The tops should not be cut off too closely — lin. 
from the crown is advisable — and the roots should then be stc-ed 
away in a frost-proof shed in sand or fine ashes, using as wanted. 
Cheltenham Green-top and Middleton Park are two of the finest 
varieties for all purposes. The Perpetual or Spinach Beet is grown 
for its foliage, which is cooked and eaten the same as Spinach. 

One of the Carrion Beetles {Silpha opaca) forsakes its ordinary 
flesh diet, at least in the grub stage, for a vegetarian one — the 
Beet. The grubs do much damage to the crops at certain 
seasons. The Beetle itself is nearly ^in. long, flattish, and black ; 
this is also the colour of the grub, which is Woodlouse-shaped 
(asiliform). The insects are nocturnal, and must either be hand- 
picked or treated to a weak solution of kerosene emulsion. By 
way of prevention, animal manures, such as butcher's offal, should 
be avoided. 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



1053 



Beet Rust (yUromyces betce) attacks both Garden and Field 
Beet, the latter more especially. Usually the disease is not 
noticed until its third and final stage (teleutospore) is reached, and 
the blackish spots are in evidence on the leaves. Long ere this 
the aecidium-stage was passed, probably in Seed-Beet, or even 
upon the Wild Beet. This was followed by the uredo-stage, 
when the brown spores were dispersed, increasing the area of 
the disease. Finally, the teleutospores already alluded to were 
produced, and these tide the disease over the winter. Sulphide 
of potassium should be sprayed upon the crop by way of 
prevention in early summer, and all leaves which decay or are 
removed from the plants at harvest-time should be burned. 

Borecole, or Kale. 

For cold or exposed gardens Borecole is indispensable, 
being remarkably hardy, tender, of good flavour, and affording 
a supply of vegetables when they are scarcest, viz., from 
Christmas until late spring. Good, firm soil, that has been 
deeply worked and liberally manured, whether heavy or light, 
will grow all the varieties well. In March, when the soil 
and weather are favourable, the seed may be sown thinly in 
beds of rich, firm soil, merely covering it to its own thickness 
and protecting the bed from birds (which are very fond of all 
Brassica seeds) with nets. Immediately the seedlings are large 
enough to handle, showery weather should be watched for, and 
the plants then put out 2^ft. apart each way on ground 
prepared ior them. In the course of a few weeks, they may 
have soil drawn up to them in the same manner as Potatoes ; 
chis will prevent their rocking about by wind, and also, by 
loosening the surlace soil, will ensure their thriving and growing 
rapidly. If the land is rich and has been deeply worked, the 
growth of the plants will be so rapid as to meet each other and 
smother all weeds. The Lapland, Asparagus, and Ragged 
Jack Kales are all specially hardy varieties, withstanding our 
severest winters. The Matchless Curled and Dwarf Green Curled 
are also very hardy and handsomer than the first-named, though 
no better in quality. Where large quantities of Parsley (or a 
substitute) are required for garnishing, the Variegated Kale is 
very serviceable, especially in winter, when Parsley is scarce. 

Broccoli. 

A deeply-dug and firm, rich soil is essential for the production 
of this useful winter vegetable. If the soil is very loose 
the plants make large leaves, wanting in solidity, and when 
severe weather sets in they collapse and rot. For first supplies 
to cut, say, from the beginning of October to Christmas, the 
following in their order of coming into use are varieties of 
proved merit : Veitch's Self-Protecting Autumn (when true to 



I054 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



name this is a most valuable sort), Walcheren, Early White, and 
Snow's Winter White. All the above should be sown thinly in 
rich soil early in April, and planted out from the seed-bed in 
rows 2ft. apart, with a similar distance between the plants in the 
rows, arranging them so that each plant comes between two 
others in the next rows. This is what gardeners term "planting 
alternately," and an excellent system it is. For later supplies in 
spring or early summer we can recommend Knight's Protecting, 
Improved Wilcove, Model, and Late Queen. The last two are 
very useful to the professional gardener, as they come into use 
in May and early June, before the Peas and Cauliflowers are 
ready, and are a great boon in keeping up an unbroken supply 
of vegetables. The seeds of these later varieties should be sown 
about the end of April, and the seedlings planted out the same 
distance apart as mentioned above. On the approach of bad 
weather, such as much wet, snow, or sharp frost, it is advisable 
to tie up the leaves over the centre of all plants forming heads, 
thus throwing off wet or snow, and protecting them from frost, 
which would otherwise spoil the heads. If there are indications 
of much and continued frost, it is an excellent plan to take up 
carefully, with a good ball of soil attached to the roots, all 
those plants exhibiting signs of forming heads, and to place 
these close together in pits or frames, or even in sheds from 
which frost can be excluded. In the hard winters of 1894 and 
1895 ^^'^ ^^^^Sj '^'^d were able to keep up a supply of small, 
tender Broccoli daily for weeks, while all the other Broccoli 
outside, except Model and Late Queen varieties, were killed by 
the severity of the weather. Another plan is to bend on their 
sides all the plants facing north, before bad weather arrives ; 
but this method is not so safe as that of lifting and storing 
under cover. 

Brussels Sprouts. 

This highly productive vegetable is deservedly esteemed 
everywhere, and to procure large, firm sprouts the seeds 
should be sown and the plants grown on as advised for 
Borecole, or Kale. If such varieties as Rosebery or Imported 
are selected, 2^ft. each way for the plants will be plenty 
of room ; but if extra fine stems, with very large sprouts, 
are wanted for exhibition, another foot each way should be 
allowed, choosing Sutton's or Veitch's Exhibition or the new 
President Carnot, which has proved excellent for exhibitors of 
late years. One of the greatest mistakes made with Brussels 
Sprouts is to pick or cut off the top first when commencing to use 
them. The top ought to be left until last ; when taken off first, 
it causes all or most of the sprouts on the stem to open and 
start growing, and so become less valuable than they would be 
if close and firm. 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



1055 



Cabbag^es. 

For convenience of reference this section is treated under 
three headings — viz., Autumn-sown, Spring-sown, and Red, or 
Pickling Cabbage. 

Taking the Aiitumn-sown first, some judgment must be exercised 
as to the best time to sow. In the North and in other cold 
districts the third week in July will be a suitable time ; while 
in the South and warmer parts of the country, from the 
beginning to the middle of August will be the best time. If 
sown before, the Cabbages would be apt to mature too early, 
especially if the autumn and w^inter proved mild and favourable 
to growth. The seed may be sown either in beds or in drills 
thinly, in an open sunny situation ; thence the plants should be 
planted out in rich soil, i8in. apart each way, the position, if 
possible, being a warm and sheltered one. Drawing the soil up 
well to the plants when large enough is very beneficial, and to 
some extent acts as a gentle protector to their bases. In the 
spring — say about March — an application of loz. of nitrate of 
soda to each square yard wall hasten development considerably ; 
in fact, that fertiliser is of great assistance to all this family 
when the plants are in active growth. Earliest of All, Mein's 
No. I, and Ellam's Dwarf Spring, are most reliable varieties for 
sowing in the autumn. 

Spring-soivn. In some establishments Cabbages are required 
during the summer and autumn months. Where this is the 
case, a first sow^ing should be made about the middle of 
March of such varieties as Earliest of All and Improved 
Nonpareil, followed a month later by Christmas Drumhead 
or London . Market. All these varieties should be treated as 
recommended for the autumn-sown Cabbage, except that the last 
two should have a little more room between the plants. If only 
one variety is desired, Christmas Drumhead should have the 
choice, being a most useful and fine-flavoured variety, and of 
good constitution. 

Red^ or Pickling. The Red Dutch Pickling is probably the 
best and richest-coloured variety of this class. It should be 
sown and planted out as advised for autumn-sown Cabbage, the 
only difference being that the plants should have tw^ce the 
distance between them when planted out — /.f., 3ft. 

Savoys. — See page 1073. 

The Large White Butterfly {^Pieris brassicce), or, rather, its 
larva (Fig, 679), is one of the worst pests of the Cabbage — 
indeed, of the entire Brassica family. The butterfly itself is too 
well known to need description, while its bluish-green caterpillar 
should be almost equally familiar. The pupa-stage is passed 
either on or very near its food-plant, such as under walls, eaves 
of outhouses, palings, and the like. It is of the shape shown 
in the illustration. The insect is double-brooded, appearing first 



1056 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 





Fig. 



in late spring and again in July. Lime and soot, in the pro- 
portion of three parts of the former to one of the latter, should 
be distributed over the patches in June. 
Hand-picking should also be resorted to, 
while all pupae and perfect insects should 
be destroyed. Were it not for the good 
offices of several Ichneumon FHes these 
pests would be even still more numerous. 
Ichneumoned larvae should never be inter- 
fered with ; they are readily told by the 
groups of yellowish-white 
cocoons surrounding the 
unfortunate host. 

Another lepidopterous 
pest is the Cabbage Moth 
iyMamesti^a brassicce) Cater- 
pillar, which eats into the 
hearts of Cabbages in 
summer, rendering them 
disgusting. Hand-picking 
is the only remedy. The 
Cabbage Fly {^Anthomyia 
brassiccE) and the Cabbage 
Aphis {Aphis brassicce) are 
also troublesome. The grub 
of the former penetrates the stem 
dressings of soot and lime ; and the latter infests the under-surfaces 
of the foliage, from which they should be washed with a soft soap 
solution. Then there is the Snowy Fly (Aleyrodes proletelld)^ which 
also infests the under-surfaces of the leaves. These insects are 
very minute and have powdery wings. They should be treated to 
a soft soap solution, or in very bad cases the infested leaves 
should be removed and burnt. At the roots there are Wireworm 
{see Chapter "On Pests Generally") and the Cabbage and Turnip 
Gall Weevil {Ceiithorrhyiichus sulcicoliis), whose yellowish footless 
grubs set up irritation in the roots, causing them to "gall" and 
eventually to rot. Gas-lime at the rate of one ton per acre should 
be applied to destroy the pests left in the soil after the crop has 
been lifted, and the ground then allowed to remain fallow for a 
time. Neither Cabbages nor Turnips should be grown the following 
season, and any cruciferous weeds should be promptly eradicated. 

Galls of another kind on the roots are due to the presence 
of one of the Slime Fungi {Plasmodiophora brassicce)^ ^\\vs\g rise 
to the disease known as Finger and Toe, Anbury, &c. 
Quicklime is the remedy, and should be applied at the rate of 
thirty bushels to the acre. The disease is readily spread by 
workmen carrying the soil from an infected into a non-infected 
area either on their boots or on the wheels of farm-carts. 



679. — Pupa and Larva of 
PlERIS Brassic.-e. 



if not prevented by liberal 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



1057 



Anbury does not confine its attention to Cabbage, but attacks 
other well-known vegetables, including Turnips and Radishes. 
All cruciferous weeds should be burnt, as should all infected 
Cabbage-stumps. 

Capsicums and Chilies. 

In some few gardens these are grown for exhibiting in 
collections of vegetables, or for use in the house. If for 
the former purpose. Bull's Nose or Elephant's Trunk are 
the best ; if for home use or ornament, Prince of Wales, 
Celestial Pepper, and Little Gem are beautiful varieties. The 
seed should be sown in March in gentle heat, and the seed- 
lings, when large enough to handle, should be potted singly 
in small pots, using a compost of fibrous loam, with a little 
decayed leaf-mould and silver-sand added, keeping the plants 
in a light position and preventing insect pests by fumigating. 
As the pots become filled with roots the plants should be 
shifted into larger pots, using a rich and fibrous compost, and 
always draining the pots w^ell. Towards the end of May the 
plants will thrive very well in a cold frame, syringing them 
well in the afternoon and closing with a nice sun-heat. When 
they are in 6in. or yin. pots, they will not require potting 
again, but may be fed liberally with diluted liquid manure two 
or three times weekly. 

Carrots. 

By means of a hot-bed made up of stable litter trodden 
firmly, the litter covered with 4in. or 5in. of fine soil, and a 
frame placed over, fine early Carrots may be quickly obtained. 
Sow in January French Horn, or Early Scarlet Nantes Horn, 
over the bed, and cover very lightly with soil. In a few days 
the seeds will germinate, and air must be carefully admitted 
on all favourable occasions. The same varieties may be sown 
outside in the middle of February on a warm and sheltered 
border in drills ift. apart. As these Carrots are drawn while 
small for flavouring, <S:c., no other thinning of the plants is 
necessary. The ground for the main crop should have been well 
manured for a former crop, and deeply dug during the 
winter. Before levelling down at the end of March or early in 
April, a dressing of ashes from a burnt rubbish-heap, or a light 
application of soot, spread over the ground, is an advantage. 
In the process of levelling and preparing the soil, this dressing 
becomes thoroughly incorporated, and makes the soil better for 
germination. The drills may be drawn ift. apart and lin. deep; 
in these the seeds should be sown thinly, and lightly covered 
with soil. New Intermediate and Red Elephant are good varieties. 
In showery weather the seedlings should be thinned out to 6in. 
apart, and when Carrots are wanted every alternate one may be 

3 Y 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



drawn. In the autumn the roots should be carefully lifted and 
stored away as advised for Beet. 

By far the most destructive of Carrot pests is the Carrot Fly 
{Psila rosoe), whose larvae penetrate the roots, causing them to 
decay, and rendering them unfit for market by reason of their rust- 
spotted appearance. The eggs are laid in early summer beneath 
the soil, and the resulting larv« are yellowish-white footless grubs 
about Jin. long. They tunnel the Carrots in an upward direc- 
tion, and make in the process several exit-holes. Carrots whose 
foliage turns yellowish-brown and withers should be lifted, and if 
the grubs are noted all such sickly roots should be removed and 
burned. Kerosene emulsion might be sprayed upon the plants in 



2 




Fig. 680. — Carrot-Fly: i, Perfect Insect; 2, Grub; 3, Pupa; 

ALL SHOWN NAT. SIZE AS WELL AS :MUCH MAGNIFIED ; AND '4, 

"Rusty" Carrot. 

{By permission oj the Board of Agriculture.) 



May with a view to prevent egg-laying. Parsnips are also 
attacked. There are several broods. Soot and lime top-dressings 
are also beneficial. Fig. 680 shows the perfect insect, grub, 
and pupa, natural size and magnified, together with a Carrot 
exhibiting the characteristic rusty spots. 

Cauliflowers. 

In most large gardens Early London or Dwarf Erfurt is 
sown in cold frames about the middle of August for the 
production of early Cauliflowers the following year. Another 
excellent variety for autumn sowing is Autumn Giant. No 
coddling should be given to the plants ; they should be kept 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



1059 



as hardy and sturdy as possible by removing the Hghts daily, 
except when there is much wet, snow, or severe frost. By the 
end of March they may be transferred to rich soil on a warm 
border, planting the two first-named 2oin. apart each way. The 
plants of the Autumn Giant variety will be best in a more open 
quarter of the garden, arranged 2ft. apart each way. The two 
early varieties first-named should be ready to cut early in June, 
and the last-named will form a valuable succession for a month 
or more ; in fact, if the first spring-sown plants fail, as they 
often do, the Autumn Giants are doubly valuable in keeping up 
an unbroken supply. 

Early in February a small sowing should be made in gentle heat 
of Extra Early Forcing, and as the seedlings become large enough, 
they should be pricked out in a frame or boxes, afterwards 
transplanting to good soil, in a warm position, i8in. or 2oin. 
apart. About the middle of March, Early London, Eclipse, and 
Autumn Giant should be sown in beds of fine rich soil, avoiding 
overcrowding in the seed-bed ; and when the plants are large 
enough they should be planted out 2ft. apart each way, in good, 
deeply-worked, and heavily-manured soil. As they get established 
and attain a height of Sin. or so, soil should be drawn up to 
them on each side of the row. Later on, if extra close and 
large heads are wanted for exhibition or other purposes, liquid 
manure, or loz. of nitrate of soda per square yard, will impart 
vigour to the plants, and act beneficially on the heads. Whether 
required for exhibition or not, it is always advisable to tie up 
the leaves over the heads when forming, or to break a few of 
the outer leaves over the heart of the plant : this gives the heads 
that beautiful white appearance so much admired in well-grown 
Cauliflowers. After the head has been cut, the plants should 
be promptly pulled up, as they then only drag the fertility 
out of the soil to no purpose. It may be remarked that Slugs 
are very fond of Cauliflowers when first planted out ; therefore 
air-slaked lime or soot should surround them for protection until 
all danger is past. 

Celery. 

Except for very early requirements the white varieties of 
Celery are not to be compared with the pink or the red forms ; 
but where very early Celery must be grown. Incomparable 
Dwarf White is one of the best, being thick, crisp, and of good 
flavour. Leicester Red, Wright's Grove Red, and Wright's Grove 
Pink are all first-class for main or late crops. For first crops 
seed should be sown thinly in boxes in gentle heat in February, 
and for main or late crops about the middle of March. When 
the seed has germinated freely, the plants should be well exposed 
to the light to prevent their becoming drawn or leggy ; and 
when lin. or so high, they should be pricked out in boxes or 

3 Y 2 



io6o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



in frames, with a gentle heat, gradually hardening them off ready 
to plant out in trenches when they are about 6in. high. The 
trenches are usually i8in. deep, the same in width, and 4ft. apart; 
at the bottom of the trench should be placed 6in. of good well- 
rotted manure, covering this with 2in. of soil. In these the 
Celery should be planted in two lines, the plants being about 
I ft. apart and arranged alternately, thus giving them more room 
for development than if directly opposite each other in the rows. 
Showery or dull weather is best for planting out, and at no time 
— from the period of sowing onwards — should Celery suffer for 
want of water. If it does, the plants are liable to " bolt," or run to 
seed, and thus prove worthless. When once well established in 
the trenches, diluted liquid manure, kainit, or agricultural salt, 
at the rate of 20Z. to the yard run of trench, will be beneficial, as 
Celery is a gross feeder. 

A mistake is often made in earthing up too soon, and also by 
carelessness in the operation. Before earthing all suckers should 
be removed, and all the leaves of the plant tied up together with 
a piece of matting or raffia ; then the earth should be placed care- 
fully round the plants, but not in sufficient quantities to smother 
the centre or growth part. Usually, about three such earthings 
are sufficient, but the final earthing should be brought close up 
to the points of the plants, as the object is to throw all the 
water from the plants and prevent rotting. Many successful 
exhibitors tie up the plants in layers of stout brown paper, 
instead of earthing ; the Celery is thus beautifully clean and 
well blanched. 

A leaf-mining insect, the grub of the Celery Fly {Teph?'itis 
onopordifiis), attacks the foliage of both Celery and Parsnips. 
Its attack is denoted by a sickly appearance of the leaves 
and the presence of yellowish patches. The best remedy is to 
crush the grubs between the finger and thumb before they can 
escape from the leaves and pupate. There are two or three 
broods in a season. In very bad cases the leaves had better be 
removed and burned. This is also known as Parsnip Fly. 

Very destructive also is the Celery Stem Fly [Piophila apii). 
The larva of this insect bores into the stem above the ea-rthing- 
line, and works towards the centre as well as to the base. Its 
galleries are frequently disclosed when the vegetable is being 
prepared for table. The fly is very minute (^in. in wing-expanse) 
and inconspicuous. The larva is creamy-white and shiny, with 
two dark spiracles at the hinder extremity. There are several 
broods, and the larval and pupal states may be passed in either 
the Celery stems or the earth. The pests are difficult to deal 
with ; but their attacks may be minimised by syringing or 
spraying Anti-Pest on the stems to render them disagreeable 
to any larvje hatched out. Where Celery is seen to be attacked 
the plants should be lifted and burned, and after the crop has 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



I061 



been raised the quarters should be dressed with gas-Ume, left for 
a time, and then forked in. Celery badly attacked practically 
rots away. 

Chicory. 

In many gardens Chicory is much appreciated as a salading 
during the winter months, especially if quickly and properly 
grown. The seed should be sown at the end of May or in 
June, in drills ift apart, in a sunny, open position. When the 
seedlings are large enough to handle, they should be thinned 
out to Sin. apart in the rows, and afterwards kept free from 
weeds with a Dutch hoe. At the end of October or early in 
November, the roots may be taken up carefully and stored in 
soil in sheds or in the open ground, protecting from frost with 
litter. By placing a quantity of the roots in a Mushroom-house 
or other dark, warm structure at intervals of three weeks, a 
daily supply of tender and beautifully-blanched leaves for salad 
may be picked. 

Cucumbers. 

The heaviest crops and most beautiful Cucumbers are pro- 
duced on plants in pits or houses, where they can be trained 
on a trellis fixed about ift. from the glass. Seed may 
be sown in January or February in pots or pans, with a nice 
gentle bottom-heat and a top temperature of yodeg. or there- 
abouts, which should not be allow^ed to fall below 6odeg. at 
night. When the seedlings begin to form the first rough leaf 
they should be transferred singly into thumb-pots, using two- 
thirds of fibrous loam and one-third of leaf-mould as a compost. 
In a fortnight or so the plants will be ready to transfer to 
mounds of loam, 3ft. apart, with a little leaf-mould or spent 
horse-droppings added. A stake reaching to the trellis should 
be fixed to each plant, which should be tied loosely thereto. 
Cucumbers rejoice in a good moist heat, and if the thermometer 
runs up to godeg. or more by the help of sun-heat, with plenty 
of moisture in the atmosphere, the plants will enjoy it and grow 
rapidly. When the roots appear through the mound, a very light 
mulch of soil should be given — just enough to cover all the roots — 
repeating this weekly, and also giving frequent applications of 
diluted liquid manure. By this means the strength of the 
plant will be maintained, and continuous supplies of fine tender 
Cucumbers forthcoming. 

The training of the plant is a simple matter, merely stopping 
the shoots one leaf beyond the fruits, and pinching out any 
useless growth, also the weekly removal of any exhausted shoots, 
taking care never to cut out much growth and foliage at once. 
If the plants are looked over twice a week no check is given, 
but if left for two or three wrecks, and then severely pruned to 



io62 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



keep them within bounds, there is not only a check but a great 
loss of fruit. 

Very fair crops of Cucumbers are grown in frames placed on 
hot-beds made of stable litter trodden firm, and several inches 
of good soil arranged thereon. It is seldom wise to make up a 
hot-bed before the end of March or early in April. If snow 
falls in quantity it seems to take the heat out of the bed, and 
all the plants in the frame are killed or seriously crippled. 
About three seeds may be sown in the centre of each light, 
pulling one plant out if they all germinate, keeping a moist 
growing atmosphere, and always closing the frame with a good 
sun- heat and plenty of moisture early in the afternoon. Insect 
pests will not be troublesome if this is followed out, but should 
Aphides appear fumigation will oust them. 

For either house, pit, or frame culture Telegraph and Lockie's 
Perfection are the most desirable ; Stockwood Long Ridge is 
the best for outside, being quite hardy if sown in May. 

Care should be taken in making up soil for Cucumbers that 
it does not contain any of the pests popularly known as 
Eelworms. These are very destructive, and when once they 
attack nothing will save the plants. If plants are found to be 
doing badly (stunted) without any apparent cause, one should be 
lifted, and if wart-like growths are found upon the roots then the 
grower will be aware of the existence of Eelworms, which are found 
very abundantly in some soils, feeding upon the roots of grasses. 
They are therefore readily transported in potting and other 
composts. See " Eelworms " in the Chapter " On Pests Generally." 

K Mildew scientifically known as Peronospora cubensis^ occasion- 
ally is found upon the leaves of Cucumbers and their allies, and 
its progress is rather difficult to arrest. Spraying with potassium 
sulphide in the proportion generally recommended may be tried. 

Endive. 

Endive is seldom in great 
demand until the supply of 
Lettuce is exhausted, and, like 
Chicory, it is most useful for 
winter salading. If very early 
Endive is required, viz., in the 
autumn, seed may be sown in May 
thinly in drills ift. apart, in rich, 
porous soil, and the plants after- 
wards thinned out to ift. apart in 
the rows. For main crops or 
winter supplies, the middle of July is a suitable time to sow, 
thinning out the young plants as stated above, and encouraging 
rapid growth by frequent moving of the surface-soil and an 
occasional soaking wqth weak liquid manure. Various systems 




Fig. 68 1. — Curled-leaved 
Endive. 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



1063 



of blanching Endive are adopted. One of the most primitive 
is to place an inverted flower-pot over the plant, plugging up 
the drainage hole to exclude 
light. Another is to place two 
boards together like an inverted 
V over the rows of plants. 
But where there is a Mush- 
room-house that can be utilised, 
it is far the best plan to take 
up the plants with a good ball 
of soil attached and place 
them close together, taking 
care not to give too much Fig- 682.— Broad-leaved Endive. 
water, or the foliage will rot. 

In this way white and tender Endive is obtained. Successional 
batches may be placed in the Mushroom-house as often and in 
such quantities as may be necessary for requirements. The 
difference between the Curled- and Broad-leaved varieties is 
shown in Figs. 681 and 682. Extra Green Curled and Improved 
Round-leaved Batavian are the best varieties. 

Herbs. 

No vegetable garden is complete without its herb-bed, and 
as nearly all kinds may be easily raised from seed there is no 
difficulty in getting together a collection. The situation should 
be open, well-drained, and easy of access, so that the herbs 
may be got at without trampling over the beds. Early in 
April is a good time to sow, taking care to have the soil fine 
and in good working order. The distances between the drills for 
each kind will be determined by the height of the plants ; for 
instance, Angelica should be in rows 6ft. apart, Fennel 3ft., and 
Marjoram i8in. As the seedlings appear, overcrowding should be 
guarded against by freely thinning. Nothing is gained — indeed, 
very- much is lost — by congestion, not only in the case of herbs, 
but also with other plants in the garden. 

Horse = Radish. 

To grow this well the ground should be trenched 2ft. deep, 
and a good dressing of farmyard manure placed at the bottom 
of the trench ; this will draw the roots straight down without 
forking. Pieces of root with a crown, or bud, at the top may 
be inserted a few inches from the surface and about ift. apart; 
in a year very fine, thick, straight stems will be ready for use. 

Kale. — See " Borecole." 

Leeks. 

The Leek is so hardy and useful as a winter vegetable that 
we are surprised it is not more frequently grown. At present 




1064 THE BOOK OF GARDENING, 

its culture is only given the proper attention by exhibitors, as 
fine, well-grown, and nicely blanched Leeks are always a telling 
dish in a collection of vegetables. To procure the magnificent 
specimens seen at horticultural exhibitions the seed should be 
sown early in January, in boxes, in gentle heat. The seedlings 
should be transferred into small pots when large enough, and 
planted out afterwards the same as recommended for Celery, 
adopting the same mode of blanching the growth, and giving 
copious supplies of diluted liquid manure when the plants are 
growing freely. For ordinary crops this seed may be sown in 
drills early in March, and when the plants are about 6in. or yin. 
long they should be planted out in deeply-worked rich soil, using 
a dibber to make a good deep hole ; at the bottom of the hole 
the plant should be placed with a little soil to cover the roots. 
As the plant grows, the hole should be gradually filled up with 
soil, thus giving a much greater length of blanched stem than is 
possible from plants put in on the level or surface. Bobbie's 
Champion and the old Musselburgh are two excellent and 
reliable varieties. 

Lettuce. 

Tastes differ as to which are the better Lettuce — Cos or 
Cabbage ; but as a rule it is wise to grow some of both, 
sowing first a little seed of Early Paris ^larket (Cabbage) and 
Paris Green (Cos) in January, in gentle heat, pricking out the 
seedlings into boxes, and gradually hardening off to plant out in a 
warm, sheltered border early in April. In the middle of March 
a small bed may be sown, and as the plants get large enough 
they should be planted out ift. apart in rich soil. This operation 
of sowing and planting, if repeated every three weeks to the end 
of May, will keep up a constant succession of tender, crisp 
Lettuce. From the end of ^lay to the end of July the seed 
should be sown thinly in drills, and the plants thinned out, not 
transplanted. If disturbed at the roots they are very liable to 
• bolt or to run to seed without hearting. Plenty of moisture at 
the roots is essential to Lettuce in dry weather : the hearts are 
then large, solid, and very crisp. Paris Green and Paris White 
are splendid Cos varieties, while Continuity and Perfect Gem 
are equally good Cabbage sorts. Hicks' Hardy Winter Cos and 
All The Year Round Cabbage are two meritorious varieties for 
sowing in August to stand the winter, and for early spring 
cutting. 

Several moth-caterpillars feed upon Lettuce, the most 
conspicuous being those of the Common Tiger j\Ioth. These 
hairy caterpillars are taken by but very few birds, the Cuckoo 
beins the greatest friend to the 2:ardener in 2:ettino- rid of them. 
Hand-picking must be resorted to. Surface Caterpillars are also 
troublesome. These must be dealt with according to the 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. I065 

methods suggested in the Chapter "On Pests Generally." A 
Mildew also asserts itself upon the leaves of Lettuce, both forced 
and grown outside, though chiefly upon the former. It is a 
species of Peronospora, and causes the plant to turn sickly and 
die. A well-ventilated house and a not too moist atmosphere 
will tend to keep it at bay. 

Mushrooms. 

These delicious vegetables, or fungi, are always appreciated, 
and when manure from horses fed on dry food can be 
obtained in quantity there is little trouble in growing Mush- 
rooms all the year round. Manure from horses fed on roots, 
or receiving medicine, is of no use. Mushrooms absolutely 
refusing to grow in such droppings. It should be collected every 
morning, or oftener, and placed about ift. deep on the floor of 
an open shed, free from drip or wet, turning the droppings every 
morning, and working out all the long straw. This process of 
turning should be repeated daily, until there is sufficient manure 
to make a bed 
— large or small, 
according to re- 
quirements ; then 
the whole should 
be thrown into 
a heap to heat 
thoroughly, and 
to eradicate any 
rankness. The 
heap ought to be 
turned thoroughly 
and well mixed 
daily for a few 
days or a week ; 
it will then be in 
good condition to 
make up into a 
bed, say, ift. deep, 
which should be beaten firm. This bed will generate consider- 
able heat, but when the heat has fallen to 75deg. or 8odeg. it 
will be ready for spawning. 

The spawn should be broken up into pieces about the size of 
a hen's egg, and inserted 2in. deep and about ift. apart over 
the whole of the bed, making the droppings firm again over the 
spawn. A coating of good fibrous loam 2in, deep, spread evenly 
over the bed and gently pressed with the back of a spade, will 
complete operations, taking care that the soil is neither too w^t 
nor too dry, as no watering of the bed — unless it becomes very 
dry — should be done until the Mushrooms appear, which usually 




Fig. 683. — Mushrooms Grown in Pans. 



Io66 ■ THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

occurs in six weeks from the time of spawning. A temperature 
of 55deg. is the most suitable, and ought not to be much' 
exceeded. Maintain a moist atmosphere in the structure by 
damping the floors and walls — not the beds — every morning. 
When the Mushrooms appear, a good soaking with slightly- 
warmed water may be given, and as often afterwards as may 
seem necessary, giving weak liquid-manure, or a handful of salt 
in a 4gal. can of water when the bed exhibits signs of 
exhaustion. 

When gathering the Mushrooms it is advisable to twist the 
stems round gently to detach them from the bed, filling the 
hole made in the bed with a little soil. If the stems are cut 
and left in the bed they cause the spawn to decay. 

Very good Mushrooms are often grown in pasture fields by 
inserting lumps of spawn under the turf at the end of April or 
early in May, and beating the turf firm over the spawn ; in 
favourable seasons, and on suitable land, the crop is often 
enormous. Mushrooms may also be grown in pans (Fig. 683). 

W^oodlice are the chief pests of the Mushroom cultivator, and 
they are best trapped by half-filling pots with hay and laying 
them on their sides. Each morning the Woodlice should be 
shaken out into a vessel of boiling water. 

Mustard and Cress. 

Mustard and Cress are usually employed together, and as 
their culture is exactly the same they are sown side by side. 
With a little gentle heat there is no difficulty in having a daily 
supply all the winter. Simply fill a few boxes with light, rich 
soil, press level the surface with a piece of board, and sow the 
seed on the surface, watering well, and not permitting the soil 
to become dry. By sowing one box of Mustard and another of 
Cress every three or four days a constant daily supply for a 
small family is secured. From the beginning of April to the 
end of September seed sown in the open ground will do very 
well. 

Onions. 

The ground for this crop should be deeply trenched and 
liberally manured in the autumn, leaving the surface as rough 
as possible, to be fully acted upon by the weather. In the 
early part of March a good sprinkling of soot or ashes from 
burnt refuse is beneficial, as either of these become well incor- 
porated w4th the soil when levelling for sowing, which should 
be done as early in the month as the soil and weather will 
allow. For main crops the drills should be ift. apart, and not 
more than lin. deep, sowing thinly the seed of such varieties 
as Ailsa Craig, Cranston's Excelsior, Bedfordshire Champion, and 
Carter's Record. When the seedlings have attained a height of 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



1067 




Fig. 684. — Onion Fly, Larva, 
AND Pupa. 



about 3in. they may be thinned out to 6in. apart in the rows, 
unless wanted for pickhng, when they should be sown a month 
later than mentioned above, and will need no thinning. If 

required for exhibition, it is neces- 
sary to sow the seed in heat early 
in January, and to transfer the 
seedlings when large enough into 
small pots, afterwards gradually 
hardening off, planting out ift. 
apart each way early in April, and 
feeding weekly with diluted liquid 
manure or loz. of nitrate of soda 
to each square yard ; failing these 
some of the prepared artificial 
manures are valuable, but must not 
be allowed to fall on the foliage. 
In the autumn, when growth has 
ceased, the bulbs should all be 
lifted carefully and exposed to the 
sun and wind for a week or so ; they will then be ready to 
store aw^ay thinly in a cool, dry, frost-proof structure. 

All the Tripoli section, and most of those varieties usually 
sown in spring, will succeed very well if sown in drills as 
advised above early in August, and the 
following March planted out in good deep 
rich soil ift. apart. Where the Onion 
Fly (Fig. 684) is very troublesome it is 
an excellent plan to sow in the autumn, 
as the pest very seldom troubles them, 
and such varieties as Ailsa Craig, James's 
Keeping (Fig. 685), and other sorts usually 
sown in spring, will produce large sound bulbs 
that will keep equally as long as spring-sown 
Onions. See also Shallots, page 1074. 

Onion Mildew (yPeroiiospora Schleideni) is a 
most debilitating disease. The fungus attacks 
the leaves, causing them to assume an un- 
healthy yellow appearance, and ultimately to 
die. If the leaves attacked are burned at 
-once, and the other plants sprayed with liver of 
sulphur, the disease will be stayed : but if they 
are allowed to remain in the soil, spores will be 

distributed, increasing the gardener's trouble, yig. 685. Onion 

as eventually winter spores will be developed. James's Keeping. 




Parsley. 

In every garden this plant is indispensable, and to have a 
constant supply seed ought to be sown in March, and again 



io68 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



in June, thus ensuring both summer and winter supplies. The 
soil should be deeply worked and well manured some time 
prior to sowing, as Parsley always pays well for good culture. 
The drills may be drawn ift. apart, and not more than lin. 
deep. The seeds should, be sown thinly, and immediately the 
plants are large enough to handle they should be thinned out to 
I ft. apart : this will appear a waste of space at the time of 
thinning, but the result will be proof to the contrary. In the 
great majority of gardens the plants are insufficiently thinned, 
and stifle .each other. The Moss-Curled variety is one of the 
best for all requirements. 

Parsnips. 

The culture already advised for Beet and Carrots will also 
be suitable for Parsnips, viz., using deeply-worked soil that has 
been well manured for a previous crop. For general crops the 
seed should be sown at the end of February or early in March 
very thinly in drills i5in. apart, afterwards thinning the plants 
to I ft. apart in the rows. As the Parsnip is a strong and rapid 
grower, no weeding will be necessary after the plants are thinned, 
if all weeds are pulled at that time. Unlike most root crops, 
the Parsnip is best taken up as wanted, and should not be lifted 
and stored in sheds or clamps. If a covering of straw or 
bracken is put over the bed before severe frost sets in, there 
will be no difficulty in digging up the roots at any time during 
the winter ; the flavour will also be sweeter and far superior to 
roots which have been lifted in the autumn. 

To obtain the long shapely roots seen at exhibitions, instead 
of sowing the seed in drills a crowbar is employed to make deep 
holes I Sin. apart each way, working the bar about a little to 
enlarge the cavities, which are then filled with sand or sifted 
ashes from a burnt refuse-heap. Two or three seeds are placed 
on the top of this material, and if all germinate the strongest 
and most central one is left, and the others are pulled. In this 
way long, straight, handsome roots are obtained. For exhibition 
purposes few, if any, varieties will equal Bobbie's Selected, as it 
combines length and thickness with colour and fine form. For 
main or general crops, The Student and Elcombe's Improved are 
two fine varieties of excellent flavour. 

Peas. 

An open sunny position and soil that has been deeply 
trenched and well manured the previous autumn are best suited 
for this esteemed vegetable. Very little is gained by sowing 
seed in November, or by sowing in January in heat, and trans- 
planting out in March. A few days may be gained in picking 
the pods, as compared with those sown outside, but these coddled 
plants are seldom very productive ; one or two gatherings are 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



1069 



secured, and then the plants are useless. For all ordinary 
purposes seeds should be sown as early in February as the 
weather will permit, selecting for the first crop William Hurst 
or Chelsea Gem, neither of which usually exceeds i8in. m 
height. They may be sown in rows that distance apart, taking 
care to protect the young plants from sparrows as they appear, 
and placing a few short sticks to them early, which will afford 
some little shelter from cold winds. Towards the end of 
February another sowing should be made of any of the following 
varieties : Gradus, Stratagem, Sutton's Early Giant (Fig. 686), 
and Exonian, all of which are ex- 
cellent. The seed should not be 
sown quite so thickly as is frequently 
done, and should be in rows about 
3ft. apart. From this period onwards 
it is advisable to make fresh sowings 
immediately the previous sowing 
pushes through the soil, repeat- 
ing up to the end of May or early 
in June. The following varieties are 
about 3ft. high, and great bearers of 
fine handsome pods, first-rate for the 
dining or exhibition tables ; the seed 
should be sown thinly in drills 5ft. 
apart : The Gladstone, Veitch's Per- 
fection, Captain Cuttle, and Boston 
Unrivalled. For the last sowings, 
select Ne Plus Ultra or Carter's New 
Michaelmas ; the first of these ought 
to be at least 6ft. from any other 
rows of Peas, as it is a tall, strong- 
growing variety. It is an excellent 
plan to place a mulch of strawy 
manure on either side of the rows 
of Peas immediately after staking; 
this keeps the soil cool and moist, 
and causes the plants to remain 
vigorous and healthy, producing extra 




Fig. 686. — Sutton's Early 
Giant Pea. 



fine and well-filled pods, 
varieties named, all the 
where this is 
say 6in. 

sturdy and branching, with 



With the exception of the first two 
others mentioned are suitable for exhibition, and, 
an object, the seeds should be very thin in the rows, 
apart, to allow the plants to grow up 
correspondingly large and firm pods. 

So numerous are the enemies to Peas that to describe them 
would need a page or two. Chief offenders, however, are the 
Pea Weevil {Sitojia li?ieatus), a beetle about 5mm. in length, and 
greyish, with yellow stripes. This feeds upon the young foliage : 
while the grubs, which appear later, attack the roots. Dry weather 



loyo 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



is favourable to the increase of these insects. Dustings of 
soot when the plants are wet tends to prevent an attack ; while 
every effort should be made to keep the crop growing. Another 
Pea Beetle, Bruchus pisi, attacks the seeds. It is about the 
size of the Weevil already noted, but black in colour. Much 
might be done by way of prevention if all seed showing evidence 
of being "wormed" were kept in hot water at i25deg. Fahr. for 
an hour or more. Then there is also the objectionable Pea 
Moth {Grapholitha nebritana)^ whose pale green larvGe are 
frequently served up with the Peas, and thus vast numbers are 
destroyed. Little can be done to prevent attack. Thrips, Aphides, 
Wireworm, Slugs, and Cabbage Moth Caterpillars are all trouble- 
some. The first two may be kept at bay by means of hot 
water ; the Slugs and Wireworms must be trapped ; and the 
caterpillars will have to be hand-picked. 

Potatoes. 

Few vegetables are of such an accommodating nature as 
regards soil, situation, &c., as the Potato, and for that 
reason it does not always receive the attention it deserves. 
Although most soils will grow the tubers more or less well, 
yet a fine, deeply-worked soil, that has been well manured 
for a previous crop and dug or ploughed up roughly in the 
winter, is the best for the production of Potatoes of medium 
size, good form, and that will cook well when tested (it must 



warm border about the middle of March in rows 2oin. apart and 
I ft. between the tubers in the rows, drawing soil up to the tops 
when large enough. On light land Early Puritan and Beauty of 
Hebron are two early, heavy-cropping sorts, but, as a rule, are 
more suited for market than for the table. For mid-season re- 
quirements Sutton's Satisfaction and Sutton's Windsor Castle are 
splendid varieties ; the tubers are of good size, very handsome, 
with prominent eyes, abundant croppers, of extra good 




i 



Fig. 687.— Ringleader Potato. 




be acknowledged 
that really first- 
class Potatoes are 
too often spoiled 
by cooks). For 
first supplies Har- 
binger. Ring- 
leader (Fig. 687), 
and Improved 
Ash - leaf Kidney 
are second to 
none for quality, 
cropping, or earli- 
ness ; they should 
be planted on a 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



107 I 



quality, and adapted for home, market, or exhibition pur- 
poses. For latest supplies Up-to-Date, Challenger, and The 
Bruce are all excellent, and, having full eyes, there is 
little waste in peeling. In the case of all the mid-season 
or late varieties there should be at least 2^ft. between 
the rows, and i5in. between the tubers in the rows, and they 
should be planted as early in March as the weather and soil will 
permit. A great mistake is made in planting late Potatoes *at 
the end of April or in May; not only is the quality im- 
paired, but the crop is lighter, 
and is more subject to disease 
than are those planted in March. 
Immediately the tops are through 
the soil it is advisable to hoe 
between the rows and to give an 
application of 3c wt. of super- 
phosphate and 2cwt. of kainit per 
acre. After this rapid progress in 
growth will be made, and the rows 
should be " earthed up " as soon 
as the tops are sufficiently high. 
Beyond pulling out weeds no 
further attention will be necessary 
until the tops decay, then the crop 
should be lifted, the tubers sorted 
into two sizes (viz., those for cook- 
ing and those for seed), and stored, 
if possible, in sheds, protecting 
them from frost by straw, and 
taking care to reject all diseased 
tubers, as these would spread the 
rot into others. 

Of Potato pests, there is none 
so destructive as the fungus 
Phytophthora infestans^ though even this is not so common as 
it was before the days of high (protective) moulding, the use 
of disease-resisting varieties, and spraying with the Bordeaux 
Mixture. The first indication to the gardener of the dreaded 
disease are the brownish spots upon the foliage (Fig. 688). The 
disease spreads with remarkable rapidity ; hence the necessity for 
prompt measures — the rooting up and burning of infected plants 
and the spraying of the remainder. In gardens the spraying with 
Bordeaux Mixture or similar fungicide might be oftener adopted 
as a preventive measure. We should then hear less of such 
diseases as Phytophthora infestaiis and Leaf Curl {Macrosporium 
solafii). 

Of insects that may fairly be regarded as pests are the Wire- 
worms, Leather-Jackets, and some of the Surface Caterpillars. 




1072 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



These will be dealt with in the Chapter "On Pests Generally," 
as they are practically omnivorous. 

Radishes. 

Very early Radishes are obtained by sowing seed on a 
gentle hot-bed early in January, keeping the frame closed until 
the seed has germinated, and then admitting air with judgment 
on all favourable occasions, so as not to get the plants 
unduly drawn. The seed should not be sown too thickly for 
the same reason, otherwise the plants will be more conspicuous 
for their foliage than for their roots. From the middle of March 
sowings may be made every fortnight onwards, using very little 
seed each time, and protecting the same from birds, which are 
very partial to them. Rich soil and a nice, open sunny position 
are suitable for this salad, and the quicker the Radishes can be 
grown, the better and tenderer they are. Vilmorin and Co., 
Paris, have introduced a fine strain for frames ; one of these is 
named Leafless, and, though it has very small foliage, it may be 
sown thickly and is very good. The same firm's Extra Early 
Forcing is also an acquisition. Other good varieties for frames 
or outside are French Breakfast, Long Scarlet, or the Turnip 
Radishes. 

Rhubarb. 

Owing to the untidy appearance presented by the foliage 
of Rhubarb during some portions of the year, it should be 
grown in a part of the garden where it will not be an eyesore, 
but will yet be fully exposed to sun and light. In preparing 
a site for a new plantation the ground should be dug to a depth 
of 3ft., and heavily manured during the winter. Planting 
should be done at the end of February or early in March, 
allowing a distance of 4ft. between each stool, and giving 
a mulch of strawy manure immediately afterwards to conserve 
moisture. Rhubarb may also be raised from seed sown early in 
March, thinning out the plants to the distance named above. 
These seedlings will make good plants for forcing in two years. 
By taking up roots, or clumps, in November with a good ball of 
earth attached, and placing them in a ]\Iushroom-house or other 
warm, dark, moist structure, a plentiful supply of tender "sticks," 
or more properly, " stems," will be produced for Christmas and 
the New Year. Champagne, Monarch, and Victoria are three 
favourite varieties that succeed on all soils. 

Salsafy and Scorzonera. 

As the culture of both the above is similar, they are dealt 
with together, and in many establishments they are used 
together. The seed is best sown early in April in drills i5in. 
apart, on soil that has been deeply worked and well manured 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



1073 



for a previous crop. Thin out the plants to about Sin. apart 
in the rows, and protect and dig up as required for use, the 
same as recommended under Parsnips. 

Savoys. 

Very frequently this winter vegetable is sown too early ; the 
consequence is that it is ready to cut in the early autumn, 
and the heads burst before they are wanted. For all general 
purposes, the first week in April is quite early enough, selecting 
an open situation for the bed and not sowing the seed 
very thickly. When the plants are large enough, they should 
be put out in good deeply dug soil, at 2oin. apart for 
the large-growing varieties, and i5in. for the small-growing ones,, 
if possible choosing showery weather, and protecting from Slugs 
by a circle of soot or air-slaked lime. When the plants have 
commenced to grow again freely, they will be all the better for 
being " earthed up," i.e.^ having the soil drawn up to them 
on each side of the rows. If at any time during the 
summer the Savoys appear to cease growing, or to be turning 
a yellowish hue, an application of loz. of nitrate of soda to 
each square yard will impart new vigour. The flavour of Savoys 
is much improved by frost. Early Dwarf Ulm and King Coffee 
are two fine little Savoys, fit for a gentleman's table ; for the 
servants' hall or for market the larger Drumhead or Dwarf Green 
Curled is most suitable. 

Seakale. 

This vegetable (Fig. 689) is practically indispensable in most 
gardens of any size, and a good supply of crowns for forcing 
is imperative. Seed sown thinly in 
rows 2ft. apart at the end of March 
will produce large crowns in two years, 
if the soil is good and the plants are 
thinned out to i5in. apart in the 
rows. By sowing annually a constant 
demand may be met without much 
trouble. In November the oldest 
plants may be lifted, sorting out all 
the strongest crowns or roots, and 
laying them in soil until wanted. 
These crowns should be placed in a 
Mushroom-house, or other dark place, 
every fortnight, in quantities according 
to requirements, the roots being 
plunged in soil up to the crown, and Fig. 689.— Seakale. 

kept moist, also maintaining a moist 

atmosphere. The crowns will soon form nice heads beautifully 
blanched. If the first batch is planted in November, and this is 




I074 ^^'^^ BOOK OF GARDENING. 

followed by other batches every fortnight to the middle of 
March, a constant supply of Seakale will be produced from 
Christmas to the end of April, The temperature advised for 
Mushrooms is also suitable for forcing Seakale. 

Shallots. 

Shallots are by many preferred to Onions, not only for culinary 
uses, but also for pickling, the contention being that they are 
milder in flavour. Any fairly good rich soil will grow this 
vegetable admirably. The bulbs should be planted singly ift. 
apart, and buried up to the neck ; if the roots push the bulbs 
out of the soil, as they sometimes will, they ought to be pressed 
back again. ^Veeds, if troublesome, may be hand-pulled, or kept 
under by the Dutch hoe. In the autumn, when the tops decay, 
the bulbs should be lifted, allowed to dry thoroughly in the 
sun for ten days or so, and then stored away the same as 
Onions. Probably the best Shallot is Veitch's Exhibition Purple ; 
it is large, firm, and handsome. 

Spinach. 

A moderately-deep, rich, friable soil is most suitable for this 
crop, w^iich is always welcome, as it comes into use at a period 
when vegetables are none too plentiful. The first sowing may 
be made in February on a warm border in drills ift. apart, 
afterwards thinning the seedlings to 6in. apart : unless thinned, 
the plants crowd each other, and the foliage is much smaller 
than it otherwise would be. Later sowings may with advantage 
be made between rows of Peas, sowing both at the same time — 
one row of Spinach between two rows of Peas. In this way space 
in the garden is economised, and the Spinach crop is exhausted, 
and may be cleared away before it runs to seed and interferes with 
the Pea crop. It is little use sowing Spinach for summer supplies 
after the middle of May, as the hot, dry weather causes the seed- 
ling plants to rush to seed without making leaves large enough 
to pick. Early in August a portion of the garden that has been 
cleared of its crop, and is still in a fairly rich condition, may 
be levelled, and sown with Spinach in drills ift. apart; this 
will afford frequent gatherings during the winter and spring. 
For sowing in either spring or autumn the Victoria or Long- 
standing variety is the best, being equally capable of with- 
standing hot or cold weather. 

Tomatoes. 

The popularity of this vegetable has caused everyone with 
a garden to desire to have Tomatoes as early and for as 
long a period as possible. To attain this end seed should be 
sown in gentle heat early in January, keeping the plants close 



ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



1075 



to the glass at all times to ensure a strong, sturdy habit. 
When the seedlings have formed the first rough leaf, they 
should be transferred singly into small pots properly drained, 
using a compost of fibrous loam with a little leaf-mould and 
sharp sand added. As the little pots become full of roots, a 
shift into 4^in. or 5in. size should be given, using rather less 
leaf-mould and sand. They should not be potted again until 
the first truss of flower has appeared, and one or two fruits have 
set. After this the plants may be transferred into large pots, 
well drained, or planted out in beds of good soil, free from 
farmyard manure. Unless several stems or leaders are wanted 
to the plants, all side shoots are best removed as soon as they 
appear, thus throwing more strength into the main stem and its 
fruit. Ventilation requires considerable care, for on that im- 
portant matter depends in a great measure the success or failure 
of the crop. A close, moist, stuffy atmosphere brings disease 
and other evils, and renders a good crop impossible. Plenty of 
air on all favourable occasions ought to be admitted, and all 
watering or washing of the floors should be done in the 
morning, so that the moisture may evaporate before night ; in 
fact, a dry atmosphere should always be aimed at.' Feeding, 
again, is a stumbling-block to novices. No feeding with natural 
or chemical manure is desirable until the plants have commenced 
fruiting. If done before, a gross growth is made, and fruit is 
rarely much in evidence ; but when the plants have begun fruiting, 
stimulants in a diluted form are essential to maintain their 
strength. 

For outside culture the seed should be sown early in March 
and grown on as above. By the end of May the plants will 
have formed and set a truss of fruit ; they may then be turned 
out of the pots and planted against a warm wall or fence, 
training them to a single stem, and pinching out all side shoots 
at once as they form. In ordinary seasons a fair crop of fruit 
is produced. 

For home or market purposes, Chemin Rouge, Comet, and 
Dobbie's Champion are all excellent for inside or outdoors. 
For exhibition. Golden Jubilee, Perfection, and Duke of York 
are all large, of perfect form, and fine colour ; but to get them 
extra large the fruits should be thinned freely. 

The pests which give serious trouble to the Tomato- 
grower are comparatively few ; but fungoid diseases, like the 
common Black Spot {Macrosporimn tomato) and the formidable 
Sleeping Disease iyFusaiHiim lycopeisici) are very destructive. 
Happily, the latter is not common in this country. The chief 
characteristic of the latter is the collapse of the plant attacked. 
Treatment is of no avail ; and the only possible measures 
are precautionary — such as burning the diseased plants in their 
entirety, treatment of the soil by means of lime, thoroughly 

3 z 2 



1076 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



cleansing the house, and avoiding, if possible, seed from an 
infected area. 

Black Spot is a very well-marked disease. The common name 
gives a clue to its chief characteristic — the presence of dark- 
coloured spots. The disease usually manifests itself at the style 
end of the fruit. Plants so attacked should be burned, and the 
remainder be sprayed with sulphide of potassium (loz. to igal. 
of water). Many growers spray as a precautionary measure, 
and do not wait until the disease asserts itself. The result is 
that Black Spot and Leaf-Rust iyCladosporiiim fulviim)^ the 
latter appearing as dark spots on the foliage, are nothing like 
so prevalent as formerly. 

Turnips. 

A rich, wxll-worked, and friable soil is desirable for the earliest 
sowing at the end of March or early in April, and a sheltered 
site should be selected for the first sowing ; and in about 
three weeks another sowing may be made. Early Milan and 
Snowball are splendid varieties for sowing up to the beginning 
of ISIay ; and for use from then to the end of July, Veitch's 

Red Globe, Model White, and Golden 
Ball are all of proved merit, the last 
two being specially valuable for exhi- 
bition. At the end of August, Chirk 
Castle will be a good variety to sow to 
stand the winter and supply Turnip 
greens in early spring ; while bulbs may 

Fig. 690. Turnip Flea drawn at any time if wanted. If 

Beetle. the Turnip-Fly, or Turnip-Flea {Fhyllo- 

treta nemoruni) (Fig. 690) prove 
troublesome, a dusting with soot early in the morning while the 
dew is on the plants will check this enemy and give the plants 
a chance to grow away from it. If Turnips are required during 
the winter in quantity the roots may be lifted, and, after the 
tops have been cut off, stored the same as advised for Beet, 
Carrots, &c. 

Vegetable Marrows. 

Being a trailing subject this vegetable is best grown on old 
rubbish or manure-heaps unchecked, but cutting all the Marrows 
immediately they are of sufficient size to use, for if one or two 
begin seeding further production ceases. Seeds sown at the 
end of April will be early enough, as they quickly germinate 
and grow rapidly. When the seedlings have begun to form the 
first rough leaf they ought to be placed in 5in. pots, employing 
a compost of fibrous loam with a little decayed manure, and 
if necessary the plant supported with a neat stake as it 




ON VEGETABLE CULTURE. 



1077 



grows. About the middle of May they will be ready to plant 
out under hand-lights, or if they are not available, planting 
should be postponed to the end of the month. Beyond a 
thorough soaking of water in dry weather, no further attention 
is needed. Gourds may also be grown in the same manner. 
Moore's Vegetable Cream, Pen-y-Byd, and Custard Marrow are 
the best varieties of Vegetable Marrows, both for table qualities 
and for exhibition. 




Rhubarb. 




By 

D. Drury. 



On Pests 

Generally. 



So manifold are the foes of cultivated plants, and so com- 
plicated the life-histories of the majority, that when their 
numerical strength and peculiarities are seriously considered one 
wonders that the average garden yields such a good return as it 
does. In this country economic entomology and plant pathology 
are yet in their infancy, though there are evidences that a know- 
ledge of them, elementary though it be, is not only eminently 
desirable but absolutely necessary to present-day gardeners. At 
one time comparatively little was heard of pests, and any falling 
off in crops was put down to errors in treatment, or oftener 
perhaps to certain weather influences which were popularly sup- 
posed to be conducive to "blight." Then, again, it must not be 
forgotten that fifty years or so ago the amount of garden land 
under cultivation was infinitesimal compared with what exists to-day. 

America and several Continental nations are far ahead of us 
in their knowledge of pests and the best means of keeping 
them under control. We seem to suffer severely from that 
peculiar prejudice against anything new which is characteristic 
of many who till the soil, and until such has been broken 
down, or considerably modified, we shall continue to play second 
fiddle to more go-ahead nations. As an instance of this 
prejudice one has but to think of the cold water which was 
thrown upon the efforts of those teachers of a decade or so 
ago who ventured to suggest the use of arsenites in dealing with 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. I079 

some of our most noxious fruit-pests — the Codlin ^loth to go no 
further. How, too, pictures of poisoned fruit-consumers and 
orchard hve-stock were industriously conjured up by those whose 
business in life seems to be to condemn without trial anything 
which savours of a new-fangled notion. This, however, has been 
changed, and there are few fruit-growing centres to-day where 
the judicious use of such arsenites as Paris Green and London 
Purple is not in vogue, and gladly welcomed by those responsible 
for the cultivation of the crops. 

To those even cursorily acquainted with the subject of this 
chapter it will be patent that to deal in detail with the 
section known as General Feeders will be a well-nigh impossible 
task in the restricted space at command. What is aimed at 
here is rather to enumerate what mav be termed the chief 
offenders in both the Animal and the Vegetable sections of pests, 
and to give principles which may be applied practically. No 
hard and fast line can be laid down, as seasons and other local 
influences will have to be considered by those who are called 
upon to fight the pests. The most successful will be those who 
do not rely on a rule-of-thumb kind of way, but who bring 
their intelligence to bear in coping with the enemy to whichever 
section it belon2;s. 

For purposes of this chapter pests may be divided into two 
broad but well-defined groups — Animal and Vegetable ; for either 
to one or the other they undoubtedly belong. Of the former a 
great deal is known ; but of the latter (plant parasites especially), 
many connecting links in the chain are wanting before they 
can be successfully controlled. 

Animal Foes. 

These are a host in themselves, though the majority belong to 
the class Insecta — a class which is so well defined that there is 
little excuse for the indiscriminate inclusion therein of such 
creatures as Red Spider, Woodlice, and the true Spiders. 
Insects may be discriminated in the adult state by the possession 
of a well-marked head, bearing one pair of feelers : a. fore-body, 
or thorax, bearing three pairs of legs, and usually two pairs of 
wings ; and a hind-body, or abdomen, without legs. Spiders proper, 
and Red Spiders, or Mites, having but two divisions to the body 
and eight legs (when adult), cannot be properly classed as insects. 

Having determined the species of pest, the first question for the 
gardener's consideration is "How does it feed?" On the answer 
the treatment will practically depend. All plant-inhabiting animals 



io8o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



do not feed alike, and what therefore would be fatal to one would 
be quite harmless to another. 

Let us take, for example, two of the commonest pests known 
to the fruit-gardener — Greenfly (Aphides) and the caterpillars of 
the abundant Gooseberry ]Moth {Abraxas gi-ossuhiriata). The 
first is a sucking insect, the second a chewing one. Now, though 
the caterpillar may readily be controlled by systematically poisoning 
its food-plant, the Aphides would not be in the least affected, say, 
by covering the plants in which they were found with a solution 
of Paris Green or powdered hellebore, both of which are virulent 
poisons. This may be readily accounted for when the method 
of feeding adopted by the two insects is known. The Aphides 
derive their sustenance from the juices of the leaves, and before 
they commence to "suck" they first penetrate the poison-area 
with their beak-like mouth. 

Then there are the borers — wood-feeding insects, say- like the 
Currant Shoot Moth, whose larvse feed on the shoots ; the Com- 
mon Goat Moth Caterpillars, which tunnel the trunks of many trees ; 
or the lesser-known Wood Leopard Moth Caterpillars, which are 
found in the branches. Obviously these are without the reach of 
insecticides ; so also are, after a time, those insects which enter 
the immature flowers and fruits, or feed between the leaf-surfaces 
like the leaf-miners. 

Yet another section embraces such root-feeders like Grape Phyl- 
loxera ; American Blight (in part) ; the troublesome Cabbage Gall 
Weevil, whose wart-like excrescences are only too well known to 
the vegetable cultivator ; the much-dreaded Eelworms, so plentiful 
at the roots of grasses used as composts ; and those omnivorous 
depredators the Wireworms. All of these call for special 
treatment. Trapping . may be resorted to in the case of some, 
baking the soil in that of others, while alternate cropping in the 
case of Cabbages and such like will prove beneficial by freeing 
the soil of the objectionable animals. 

Then there are a lot of very destructive insects — Moth-Cater- 
pillars, certain Aphides, and Beetles v.-hich are leaf-twisters, or 
it may be case-makers, and though they feed upon the green 
parts of the plants, they are protected by the curled or twisted 
leaves, in which they feed comparatively secure from insecticides. 
Certain scales, again, are difficult to deal with because the exuded 
matter forming the outer covering of the pests is insoluble in 
anything which might with safety be employed. 

Whfle it is very desirable that all animal pests should be kept 
at bay, yet the crops which best pay for attention are fruit and 
vegetables, the former especially. The difference in price obtain- 
able on the market between that which has been protected 
against insect and other pests and that which has been aflowed 
to take its chance is so great as to be incredible. Even with 
crops which are required for home consumption, appearances 



ox PESTS GENERALLY. 



I081 



have to be considered by the gardener if he wishes to enjoy the 
confidence of his employer. 

So far we have assumed that the pests have been confined 
to outdoor crops : but there are also indoor ones to be thought 
of, like greenhouse and stove plants, fruits under glass, &c. 
These, however, have l^een treated under the respective chapters. 

For poisoning the food-plants in order to circumvent chewing 
insects like the larvae of ]\Ioths, Butterflies, and Sawflies, the 
grubs of Beetles which feed exposed, as well as the Beetles them- 
selves that lay the green parts of plants under contribution, 
Paris Green is best used in the proportion of loz. to 2ogal. of 
water. Many growers also add loz. of lime to the above, as the 
last-named minimises the chances of the foliage being injured. 
The mixture should be kept stirred or the Paris Green will 
settle, and it should be distributed in a nice fine spray. AVith 
fruit-trees on no account should the preparation be employed 
when they are in blossom. So far as the fruit itself is con- 
cerned there is not the slightest danger to the consumer if the 
arsenite is used in the proportion stated. ^Manufacturing agri- 
cultural chem.ists, like ]\Iackey and ^Nlackey, Bermondsey, keep 
Paris Green Paste ready for making the insecticide : and this is 
preferable to having to mix the powder one's self Hellebore 
(in powder) dusted or blown on to the trees in the early morning 
is also a capital insecticide, especially in the case of the Sawfly 
and Caterpillar grubs on Gooseberries. Although a strong poison, 
hellebore is soon rendered harmless by contact with the outside 
air, and must therefore be renewed. 

For sucking animals, one of the best all-round preparations is 
kerosene emulsion. If properly made the kerosene does not 
separate and cause injury to the plants. It may be procured in 
this country of Messrs. ^Nlackey and IMackey, in a concentrated 
form, and all that the user has to do is to dilute it to the proper 
proportions, which will vary somewhat with the kind of tree 
under treatment and the age of the leaves. The younger the 
foliage, the weaker the solution. The exact proportion may be 
determined by the gardener himself. These emulsions are best 
bought from firms with the machinery for making them. 

A very good home-made preparation for similar insects consists 
of ordinary petroleum i wineglassful, and hot water 3gals. The 
difficulty about this solution is that the petroleum does not readily 
amalgamate, and constant stirring is necessary. It is a very 
good plan to put sufficient soft soap in the water to discolour it, 
as this has been found preferable to plain water. The soluble 
petroleum is preferable to the ordinary kind. 

Again, it cannot be too widely known that hot water is a most 
useful insecticide, and we have found it especially so for Scale, 
applied at a temperature of i5odeg. It has the merit, too, of 
being harmless to the plants under treatment — neither leaves. 



Io82 THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 

flowers, nor fruits being aftected. Aphides readily succumb to it, 
as will those other pests of the greenhouse and outdoor garden, 
Thrips. In the case of Cactuses suffering from insect pests — 
Mealy-bug, Szc. — the hot-water treatment 
may be very successfully employed, first 
turning the plants on their sides. 

For the larger borers, like Goat ]\Ioth 
and AVood Leopard Caterpillars, a piece of 
copper wire may be thrust up the holes Fig. 691. — Ladybird 
made by the insects. Where, however, old Larva. 
trees are badly attacked by the first-named 

pests the galleries are so numerous, and have so many ramifi- 
cations, that it is hopeless to attempt to kill the insects by 
such means, or even by injecting a powerful insecticide into 
their haunts. 

Hard-bodied insects, like many of the Beetles, are difficult to 
cope with where they do not actually feed upon the green 
portions of the trees or plants, their horny wing-cases protecting 

them against 
the insecticides 
which kill by 
contact and 
that may be 
safely em- 
ployed. Many 
of the most 
t r oublesome 
Weevils, all of 
which are night 
feeders, arebest 
shaken on to a 
board thickly 
smeared with 
tar, and after- 
wards collected 
and destroyed. 

Earwigs, 
Cockroaches, 
Ants, Wasps, 
and Woodlice 
are all most 
effectually dealt 
with by traps 
or poisoned 
food. Red 

Spider (including the Bryobias) should be treated to an insecticide 
which kills by contact when on outdoor trees ; while indoors they 
should be treated to XL All Insecticide. 





Fig. 692. — Ground Beetle (Carabus nemoralis). 

(twice natural size.) 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. 




Fig. 693. — Devil's 
Coach-Horse 
Beetle. 



The preceding are a few general rules to be observed for 
controlling certain well-known general pests. To exterminate any 
one of them is practically impossible. Nature has too well provided 
against such a contingency. She will, 
however, help man considerably to pre- 
serve the requisite balance by means of 
insectivorous birds — like the Cuckoos and 
the Redstarts — whose fondness for hairy 
Caterpillars is well known. Such insects 
are rejected by the majority of insect-eating 
birds, probably on account of the irritating 
hairs. Rooks, Starlings, Robins, Nightin- 
gales, Partridges, and numbers of others also 
do great service Then there are working 
in the gardener's best interests the easily . 
distinguished Ladybirds and their larvae 
(Fig. 691); the majority of the Ground 
Beetles (of which Fig. 692 is Carabus 
nemoralis) ; the much-despised Cocktail, or 

Devil's Coach-Horse Beetle (Fig. 693), and many others of the 
same family characterised by short wing-cases ; the gaily-coloured 
Tiger Beetle (Fig. 694) and its larva, which lurks in its under- 
ground retreat, just keeping its head above the soil, waiting for 
an unfortunate victim ; the curious light-bearing Glow-Worm 
Beetle (Fig. 695), whose soft - bodied larviform female is 
frequently found in country gardens, making short work of 
destructive Snails and many noxious Beetles. Then there are 

the Hawkflies, or Hoverer Flies, 
whose grubs move leech-like 
upon Aphides-infested plants ; 
the gauzy-winged Lace-Flies, or 
Golden Eyes ; the Hemerohiidcz 
(near relatives of the Lacewings) 
several species of which clothe 
themselves in the empty skins of 
their victims ; and the Sand-Wasps 
and Ichneumon Flies, elsewhere 
alluded to. These are some of 
the friends of the gardener with 
which he should be equally as 
well acquainted as with his foes. 
We will now briefly discuss the 
more important feeders. 

American Blight; or Woolly 
Aphis {Schizojieura Ia?iigera). — 
Both Apple- and Pear-trees are affected with this pest, which is 
undoubtedly one of the worst against which growers have to 
contend. The insects are easily recognised by the tufts of wool 




Fig. 694.— Tiger Beetle. 



1 



1084 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



which are exuded, and may be found in Httle colonies dis- 
tributed over the bark, in the crevices of which they feed. The 
injury done to young trees is very great, but the insect is 
usually more abundant on old and neglected ones, on which may 
be found soft, spongy growths caused by the irritation set up 
by the insect, and not infrequently deep cracks. "Woolly Aphides 



old bark should be removed and burnt, as beneath it may be 
eggs or perfect insects. Kerosene emulsion should be sprayed 
on every part affected, taking care that it penetrates the 
crevices : this is best for old trees and for winter onlv. 

For young and tender-barked trees soluble petroleum, a wine- 
glassful ; soft soap, lib. ; and w-ater (hot), igal., with a handful 
of lime thrown in, will be found excellent. In summer soluble" 
petroleum, i quart : and hot water, 4gals., may be used without 
injury to the trees. Kerosene emulsion in solution may also 
be applied to the roots in winter, should they be attacked. 

Ants.- — Industrious but undesirable insects, so far as gardens 
are concerned. Outdoors they make unsightly heaps in paths 
and gardens, while they live on intimate terms with some of the 
w^orst kinds of Aphides (those w^hich secrete honey-dew), and on 
that account alone they are to be condemned. Indoors they 
are also very troublesome to many flowering plants, as well as 
to ripe fruits, especially such soft kinds as Figs. In Peach- 
houses Ants not infrequently resort, and are responsible for much 
injury to the flowers, preventing them, in fact, from developing 
properly. Ants are social insects, and their mouth-parts are 
adapted for biting. Such parts, how^ever, are peculiar, in that 
the mandibles are worked without the mouth itself being brought 
into play while the insects are feeding. 

Outdoors the best method of destruction is by iTieans of 
carbolic acid, &c., in solution, paraffin, or chloride of lime 
and water — that is, providing the nests are accessible — making 




are readily transmitted from 
tree to tree by the agency 
of wind alone. Intense cold 
does not appear to interfere 
with their comfort, and in 
order to cope with the 
enemy both summer and 
winter dressings are neces- 
sary. The insect is a suck- 
ing one, and besides being 
found upon the bark it 
also occasionally affects the 
roots. 



Fig. 695. — Glow-AVorm Beetle. 



Winter is the time to 
cleanse the trees, which 
should be thorough, and all 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. 



a sort of funnel-shaped receptacle out of clay. Sometimes the 
insects tunnel so deeply that they are not reached by 
insecticides. Then a good plan is to place a large inverted 
flower-pot, partly filled with leaves, and having the drainage-hole 
plugged up, over the nest. If the ground in the vicinity of 
the nest be watered pretty frequently the colony will take to 
the pot, when they may be readily destroyed by means of hot 
water. 

Indoors traps of another sort are best. These may consist of 
large bones on which a little meat has been left, sponges soaked 
in a syrupy fluid, and treacle and arsenic in saucers (a very 
poisonous mixture). In the first two cases the traps will need 
to be examined and the insects dropped into boiling water. 
Spring is the best time to trap, as then there are the young to 
be fed and tended, and food must be found in abundance by 
the workers, and on their destruction by the queens. Ballikinrain 
is also a preparation that may be used with excellent effect in 
fruit-houses. Lasius jiiger, a small black species, is the one 
which gives most trouble in gardens. 

Aphides, Plant Lice, or Green-Fly. — No insects are more 
familiar than these, or more difficult to keep in check, as they 
multiply by means of oviparous and viviparous females as 
well as parthenogenetically. The life-cycle is a complex one. All 
Aphides are soft-skinned sucking insects, and would therefore be 
readily destroyed by contact if they were always accessible. 
Unfortunately for the gardener they are not, frequently concealing 
themselves in the foliage, which, when badly attacked — as in the 
case of fruit- and rose-trees, &c. — has a tendency to curl. Then, 
again, there are root-feeders in the American Blight and in the 
destructive Phylloxera of the Grape ; and gall-makers, like Rhopa- 
losiphuni ribis, a species found upon the Black and the Red 
Currant. Another peculiarity is that certain Aphides migrate 
from one plant to another. Phorodon humuli^ for instance, which 
infests Plums in autumn and winter, betakes itself to the Hops in 
spring, and does immense damage. 

Some of the most destructive and commonest species are the 
Black Fly, or Black Dolphin, upon Beans, the Cherry and 
Currant Aphis {Mvzus cerasi), Apple Aphis {Aphis mali)^ Plum 
Aphis {Aphis pritni), Rose Aphis {Aphis rosce), Peach Aphis 
{Aphis amygdali), and the Hop Aphis {Phorodon humidi) already 
alluded to. 

Directly an attack of Aphis occurs, the trees or plants should 
be sprayed with either kerosene emulsion, or a quassia and soft 
soap solution made by boiling ilb. of the former and adding the 
liquor to ilb. of soft soap and i6gals. of water. Abol is also a 
thoroughly good remedy, and has been very successfully 
employed in keeping down the Plum and Hop Aphis. Popularly, 
all kinds of Aphides are called " Blight." 



io86 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Apple-Bark Beetle {Xyielwrus dispa?-). — Though associated 
in name with the Apple, this Beetle by no means restricts itself 
to that tree, but is found also upon Pears, Plums, and other 
trees. The insects are dark brown or almost black, and the 
females measure about 3mm. in length, the males being much 
smaller. The damage they inflict is by boring into the main 
stems or into the branches, and in the case of young stock the 
injury is frequently fatal, as the trees are completely tunnelled. 
The eggs are laid in late spring, and if the gardener later notices 
minute shot-like holes in the trees, he should suspect the 
presence of these insects. Such holes are really the exits 
from the galleries. In Canada, where the insects are 
plentiful, a wash made of soft soap and a strong solution of 
washing-soda, the whole of the consistency of paint, is applied 
on a warm, fine day. This, when dry, which takes place in 
a few hours, forms a tenacious coating. A peculiarity in con- 
nection with these insects is that in the galleries they make 
grows a peculiar fungus, known as Ambrosia, and upon this they 
feed. 

Cockchafers and their Allies. — Besides the Common May 
Bug, or Cockchafer {Melolo7itha vu/ga?-is), the Lesser May Bug 
{Fhylioperfha hoj'ticola) and the beautiful Rose-Beetle {Cetonia 
miratti), already noticed, are also destructive to many fruit trees 
and flowers. The first two are injurious in both the Beetle and 
grub state ; but the last is a pest only as a Beetle. Rosaceous 
plants are most affected, and the Beetles feed upon the stamens 
and petals of the flowers of Apples, Pears, Strawberries, &c. ; 
upon the fruits ; and frequently upon the leaves. At any rate, 
this is so of both the May Bug and the Lesser ]May Bug. The 

larvae of these two insects feed also upon 
the roots of Strawberries, grass, Fir-trees, 
and a number of other plants. The grubs 
of the Cockchafer when mature rest in the 
position shown at Fig. 696, though when 
young they are able to progress by crawling. 
They are most difficult to get rid of, as 
directly frost appears the pests work down 

Fig. 696. Grub of ^^le soil to a place of safety. They live a 

Cockchafer. long time as larvae — three to four years — 

and even when they have arrived at the 
perfect insect stage they do not for some time afterwards 
emerge from their underground retreat. 

Li the case of the May Bugs, little can be done by way of 
remedies, except to shake the trees over boards covered with a 
sticky preparation, afterwards collecting and destroying the insects. 
Rooks, Starlings, and the domestic fowl all do an immense 
amount of good, though the first-named in the case of infested 
lawns tear up the grass to get at the aldermanic grubs. 




ON PESTS GENERALLY. 



1087 



The Rose Chafers are best hand-picked, though the process is 
laborious. Like all bright-coloured insects they are sun-lovers, 
and numbers may be captured with a net dexterously used ; 
while others . 
may be shaken 
from their 
food - plants 
during dull or rainy 
weather. 



Cockroaches are 
omnivorous pests, 
very destructive to 
indoor fruit and 
flowers. Shoots and 
footstalks of Vines 
and P e ar- tr ees, 
flowers and roots of 
orchids, and many 
other plants are 
affected. At one time 
there was only one 
species which caused serious 
orientalis. There are, however, 
foreigners recently introduced. 
697) is now very 




common 



It 




Fig. 697. — Periplaneta Australasia. 



trouble — Stylophyga (Biafta) 
four or five other illustrious 
Periplaneta australasice (Fig. 
is a rich brown with yellow 

streaks and 
margin. Then 
there are P. 
a7?iericana(F\g. 
698), a larger insect, 
butlacking the yellow 
streaks and border- 
ing; Phyllodromia 
gcrmanica (Fig. 699); 
and Leucophcea siiri- 
namensis. These are 
best poisoned by 
means of phosphorus 
paste, Magic Paste, 
or the Ballikinrain 
preparation. 



Fig. 698. — Periplaneta Americana. 



CoDLiN Moth 
( Carpocapsa pomo- 
nella). — This is one 

of the most injurious of insects, and is remarkable alike for its 
wide geographical distribution and accommodatmg taste. Though 
it chiefly affects Apples, yet Pears, several of the stoned fruits, 



io88 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



and even Walnuts and Sweet Chestnuts, as well as Pyrus aria 
and other ornamental trees, occasionally harbour the pests. 
The caterpillar may be described as from ^in. to '^n. long, 
pinkish with brown head, the whole body segments being black- 
dotted. The Moth is on the wing in late spring, and deposits 






Fig. 699. — Phyllodromia germanica, shoaving : i, Imago (Wings 
Expanded); 2, Imago (Wings Closed); 3, Immature ; 4, Ootheca. 

her eggs in the vicinity of the blossoms. The larvse when 
hatched out burrow into the embryo fruits from the calyx end 
and tunnel towards the stem, but not touching the core until 
they are nearly full-fed (Fig. 700), when the seeds are also 
eaten and the maggot then escapes. Prior to this most of the 
infested fruits have fallen, and the insects have made their way 
back to the trees and spun a cocoon in which they remain until 
next spring. 

Paris Green (loz. to 2ogals. of water), with loz. of lime added, 
is the best insecticide. This should be sprayed on just after the 
fruit has set, and on a warm, sunshiny day. A second spraying 
may be necessary ten days or so after. By way of prevention, 

all " maggotty " 
fruit should be 
collected and 
burnt ; the trees 
should receive a 
winter dressing of 
caustic soda 
(Greenbank's 98 
per cent.), ^Ib. ; 
crude commercial 
potash, -^1 b. ; 
water, 5gals. This 
should be applied 
to the trees in 
mid-winter, the 
operator using 

gloves. Hay-bands placed round the trees (trunk and main 
branches) are also successfully employed in America. They 
serve as shelters for the larvae, which escape from fallen and 
other fruits and are making their w^ay up the trees for pupating, 
and should be examined periodically and the caterpillars destroyed. 




Fig. 700.— Codlin Moth and Caterpillar. 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. 



1089 




The late Professor J. V. Riley advocated this plan for the United 
States of America, where the pest is double-brooded. The 
accompanying illustration (Fig. 700) shows the inconspicuous 
Moth and full-grown larvae. 

Earwigs are too well known as to their general conformation 
to need any description. They are usually regarded as vege- 
tarians, but they are also carnivorous, and in captivity they 
seem to show a preference for the latter dietary. wSome little of 
the evil reputation they have acquired is due to the habit 
they have of concealing themselves in flowers, fruit, &c. For 
all that, they are addicted to gnawing 
the petals of many flowers, and of pene- 
trating into fruits like Apples, Peaches, 
and Apricots ; but whether or not they 
go there simply for shelter or for the 
purpose of partaking of the sweets, has 
not been satisfactorily determined. These 
insects are best trapped by means of 
flower-pots half filled with straw and 
placed on sticks ; old hats, similarly 
treated ; Broad Bean or other hollow 
stalks laid in their haunts ; and pieces 
of paper loosely rolled and placed in 
the plants or trees affected. These traps 

should be examined each morning, and fig. 701.-C0MMON Ear- 
the msects consigned to a vessel of 
boiling water. Many Earwigs have the 
power of flight, though, as in the case of 
the common Forficula ciiiriciilciria, (Fig. 
701), they do not often avail themselves 

of it. Labia minor^ a much smaller insect, may frequently be 
found on the wing. 

Eelworms. — By this popular name are known several species 
of Nematoid Worms which of late years have given gardeners 
considerable trouble. They belong to different genera and 
affect a large number of plants — Strawberries, Clover, Wheat, 
Potatoes, Cucumbers, Melons, Tomatoes, Vines, Onions, Hops, 
and Hyacinths, as well as Pasture Grasses and common way- 
side weeds. Eelworms are so readily introduced that the 
greatest care should be exercised when obtaining new potting 
soils, as this is a common source of trouble. The pests are 
barely visible to the naked eye, being only imm. long and 
whitish. They are pointed at either end. 

Eelworms are found in large numbers ; they pierce the tissues 
of their hosts, and extract iherefrom the juices. The symptoms 
of attack vary with its severity, and a little with the species 
found. Melons, Cucumbers, and Tomatoes may collapse 

4 A 



WIG — Variety with 
Long Forceps. 

(magnified about three 
diameters.) 



1090 THE BOOK OF GARDENIIs'G. 

altogether, and without apparent reason, if the plants are not 
lifted and examined ; or, again, there may be wart-like excrescences 
on the roots ; bulbs (like Onions) may show signs of decay ; 
Vines sometimes have a " cankerous " growth just beneath the 
soil, and the bark just at the roots may be removed ; while 
the roots and foliage of other plants may be distorted, stunted, 
and unhealthy-looking. "When once a plant is badly attacked cure 
is practically out of the question. The soil should be removed 
and deeply buried, and a fresh compost should be employed, 
first charring it, or rendering it free from the pest by pouring 
over it boiling water. These remedies are only applicable when 
the disease is restricted, as for instance in the case of flowers, 
fruit, or vegetables under glass. Outside the pests are more 
difficult to control. Wherever kainit can be employed this is 
most beneficial. It should be used in conjunction with basic slag 
— two parts of the latter to one of the former. 2|lb. of the 
combination to the square yard, if well forked in, will not be any 
too much. By way of preventive measures, turfy loam, when used 
comparatively fresh from the land for pot-plants, should be baked 
or scalded, w^hile all affected plants should be destroyed by fire. 
Turf stacked for future use should be treated between each layer 
to a dressing of mustard refuse as for A\'ireworms, using it 
plentifully. An alternation of crops should, wherever possible, 
be resorted to. Onions, for instance, should not follow^ Onions. 
Trenching Eelworm-infested soil would also help to get rid of 
the pests outdoors. 

Fruit-Tree Bark Beetle {Scolytus rugulosiis). — As the generic 
name suggests this pest is a relative of the Elm Bark Beetle. 
It infests many fruit-trees, but chiefly Apples, Pears, Plums, 
and Cherries. Though it has been so far most destructive to 
young and weak trees, yet its attacks are not confined to 
such. Probably the first signs that something is amiss with the 
trees that the gardener notices are the dying away of twigs. A 
more careful examination should reveal the holes in the bark, and 
if this be removed for a little way the holes in the wood will be 
found. The Beetles enter the tree in spring, and then form a 
■short, narrow channel, in which they deposit their eggs. The 
■grubs w^hen hatched commence to tunnel aw^ay from the galleries 
made by the parent Beetle. 

The Fruit-Tree Bark Beetle is scarcely ^in. long, furrowed, 
and of a dull black colour, relieved only by the reddish antenna 
and legs. The grub, like that of all w^ood-feeding insects, is 
white. Insecticides are not of any use. All that the fruit- 
grower can do is to burn infested shoots and twigs ; while in 
very bad cases, in w^hich the tree has been considerably weak- 
ened, it will be better to uproot it altogether and burn it. 

Lackey Moth (^Bo?nbyx neustria). — A common and destructive 
pest in gardens and pleasure-grounds. The caterpillars are very 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. 



I09I 



conspicuous as to colour. The head is bluish-grey ; the body is 
reddish-orange above, but greyish-blue on the sides ; while the 
dorsal line is white, with a black edge. There is also a wavy 
orange line in the vicinity of the spiracles ; and on several 
segments are a number of black spots. 
The whole insect is hairy. 

Apple-trees are chiefly attacked amongst 
cultivated fruits ; but, in the shrubbery 
Hawthorns are frequently infested. The 
caterpillars live in a common nest, to 
which they return after feeding. In wet 
or dull weather they do not venture forth, 
and then is the cultivator's opportunity for 
getting rid of the pests, by cutting out the 
nest and dropping it into a pail containing 
an insecticide. Towards the end of the 
larval life the caterpillars separate, and 
assume the pupal state on or near the 
food-plants. The Moths are on the wing 
in late summer, the females depositing 
their eggs in rings (Fig. 702). The insects 

are yellow of some shade, and have trans- yiq. -02. Eggs of 

verse bands upon the fore-wings, varying Lackey Moth. 

from pale yellow to brown. 

Paris Green should be sprayed upon the trees, as the cater- 
pillars are leaf-feeders. In winter the characteristic rings of eggs 
should be searched for and cut off, as this will prevent the tree 
from being attacked in the following spring, when in the ordinary 
way such eggs would hatch out. 

Leather- Jackets {Tipiild). — An appropriate name for the 
tough larvae of certain Crane Flies, or Daddy Long-Legs 

(Fig. 703). The perfect insects are 
so well characterised that no de- 
scription is necessary. They are 
usually found skimming over lawns 
and gardens in autumn. The 
Leather - Jacket grubs are rather 
more than an inch long, and 
reddish, covered with tubercles, 
and with a black head. They are 
provided with biting jaws. The 
plants most attacked in the garden 
are the members of the Brassica 
Fig. 703. — Daddy Long-Legs. family (Cabbages, Cauliflowers, 

&:c.) ; lawns, especially if damp 
and badly drained ; and cereal and grass crops. Insecticides are 
of no avail, and though trapping in the case of garden crops may 
be productive of a little good, it is not of much use with such 

4 A 2 





1092 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



prolific insects. Dressing with gas-lime, where it can be followed, 
is excellent ; while in the case of lawns, constant rolling will 
destroy vast numbers of the pests. Starlings and Rooks are 
exceedingly useful in clearing lawns and garden patches of the 
grubs, and should be encouraged. 

Mealy-bug {^Coccus adoiiidiini). — Though these pests infest 
numbers of plants, from the uninviting-looking Cactuses to the 
Grape-vine, yet it is on the latter that they inflict the greatest 
injury. The insect is a very near relation of the Scales, and is 
readily identified by the white meal-like covering over a red 
body. From Cactuses they are best removed by means of water 
of a temperature of i4odeg. to i5odeg. Fahr. Grape-vines, if 
badly infested, give an immense amount of trouble, as the insects 
hide away in cracks and crevices of walls until the vines are 
started. AVinter dressings and washings help to keep the pest at 
bay, especially if the vinery itself is thoroughly cleansed. The 
best application at such a season is kerosene emulsion. When 
pruning, the loose old bark should be removed, as this serves as a 
hiding-place for many pests ; and the rods should be treated to 
30Z. of caustic soda and 30Z. of commercial potash dissolved in 
2gals. of boiling water. Methylated spirit will kill at once all 
bugs that come in contact with it, and in very slight attacks on 
greenhouse and stove plants it may be useful to dip a camel-hair 
brush in a bottle of the spirit, and lightly touch the insects. 

Many Grape-growers, when the pest is very troublesome, find 
it policy to remove the top soil in the borders, and bury it 
deeply, replacing it with fresh turfy loam. The XL All Vaporising 
Insecticide is worthy of a trial, repeating it at an interval of 
about a fortnight. Muscat of Alexandria and Lady Downes 
Seedling are injured by the usual strength of XL, and should 
be used cautiously with these two varieties. 

Millipedes. — These are very abundant animals belonging to the 
Myriapoda^ and are represented in practically every garden. By 
some they are called Wireworms, but this is an erroneous name 
for them. The true Wireworms are, as stated elsewhere, the 
larvce of Click Beetles. Millipedes are all vegetable feeders, 
and of very cosmopolitan tastes — vegetable - roots, flower -roots, 
and fruit on the ground are all partaken of readily. In form 

they are usually C3"lindrical (Fig. 
704), though some few are flattened. 
They make an ingenious nest of 
Fig. 704.— Millipede. earth below the surface of the 

ground, and in it deposit a number 
of eggs, sealing over the hole at the top. Though not as 
destructive as the pests with which they are often confused — 
Wireworms — yet they are very undesirable, and should be killed. 
Where the attack is severe, slices of Apple, or of Turnip, or 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. 



1093 



Carrot, should be deposited on the earth and examined each 
morning. The remedies suggested under " Wireworms " should 
also be of service. 

Millipedes should not be confused with Centipedes, which are 
flatter, slenderer, and more active animals, with fewer legs. The 
latter are carnivorous, and of the greatest service to the gardener. 
They are found under garden rubbish, pots, &c. More than one 
species of Centipede is luminous, and on that account are 
confused with Glow-AVorms. 

Mottled Umber Moth {^Hybernia defoUarid). — Caterpillars of 
this insect are very destructive to Oak, Beech, Birch, Hawthorn, 
as well as to fruit-trees generally. The female Moth is less often 
recognised, on account of being wingless and presenting a Spider- 
like appearance (Fig. 705). 

The male is active enough, ^^^^ 
and found upon the wing in • ^ 

early autumn. He is variable ^-^.^^^^i^^m v^^^ 

as to colour, but 
usually whitish- 
ochreous as to 
fore-wings, which 
are traversed by 
two dark bands, 
near which is a 
dark discal spot. 
The hind - wings 
are lighter, and 
the discal spot is 
grey. Grease- 
bands put round 
the trees, as for 
Winter Moth, will 
prevent the females from ascending, and they should be 
examined and the insects destroyed. The caterpillars are over 
I in. long, dark grey, marked reddish-brown, with broad bright 
yellow siripes upon the sides, except in segment 13 and the 
head, which are orange-brown. The caterpillars become pupge in 
the bark in early summer. They strip every part of the tree 
with the exception of the bark. Paris Green, as for Codlin Moth, 
should be employed when the caterpillars are on the feed, and 
to catch the stragglers which fall to the earth tarred boards 
should be placed beneath the tree. 

Red Spider {Tetranychus telarius). — Alike under glass and in 
the open either this or a closely allied animal does considerable 
damage to a number of hardy trees and low-growing plants like 
Carnations and Violets ; while its ravages in connection with the 
Hop are very well known. To many of our fruit-trees either Red 
Spider proper or a very near relative, in the Bryobias, is a great pest. 




I094 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



but more especially to Damsons, Plums, Gooseberries, (See. Not 
only does Red Spider injure its host-plants by continually sucking 
the juices from the foliage, but the web that it spins prevents 
the leaves from exercising their proper functions. The spinning 
apparatus is very well shown in the ventral view of a Red Spider 
illustrated at Fig. 706. The pest increases rapidly, and in very 



— a stage in which they are often mistaken for Moth or Butterfly 
larv^, though they differ from the latter in possessing a larger 
number of legs. They are chewing insects, and affect a variety 
of outdoor plants — Turnips, Apples, Pears, Nuts, Currants, Goose- 
berries, &c. Though their presence is soon betrayed, yet insects 
like those affecting Gooseberries are difficult to see, so closely 
do they approximate to the colour of their food-plant. The 
insects feed sometimes enclosed in a web like Pamphiliiis flavi- 
ventris^ a common pest of Pears ; curled up in the leaves of 
their food-plant, like Cladius pyri, which infest the Plum and 
the Pear; or exposed like the Nut Sawfly {Croesus septent7'io7ialis). 
Then their manner of attack varies. With some species it is 
usual to commence with the edge of the foliage ; with others it 
is the epidermis only which is involved. All the common kinds 
enumerated are best poisoned through their food-plant, while 
as an additional precaution the soil beneath the trees may be 




bad attacks the foliage assumes 
an unhealthy, yellow, blotched 
appearance, and falls. Paraffin 
emulsion is one of the best 
remedies for outdoor plants, and 
this should be repeated until all 
the pests are removed. 



Fig. 706. — Ventral View of a 
Red Spider. 



Indoors on Grape-vines the 
XL All Vaporising Insecticide 
should be resorted to. Many 
gardeners trust to sulphur in 
the evaporating-troughs or on 
the hot-water pipes, but this will 
not get rid of the pests. A dry 
atmosphere is conducive to Red 
Spider attacks, and the aim, 
therefore, of the grower must 
be to see that there is plenty of 
atmospheric moisture at the out- 
set. If the Spider should appear 
in the early part of the season, 
syringing with clear rain-water 
through an elbowed nozzle will 
be productive of much good. 



(magnified 130 diameters.) 



Sawflies are only destructive 
in the larvalj or caterpillar, stage 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. 



1095 



taken up for a depth of 3in. or 4m. and deeply buried. 
Numbers, too, may be got rid of by jarring the trees, having 
first placed beneath sticky boards to catch those which drop. 

Scale Insects are found upon a variety of trees and plants, 
from decorative Palms to Apples, Pears, and Currants. They 
belong to many genera, and some are remarkable for the 
coverings -which give rise to the popular name they bear — • 
Scales. All the insects do not, however, form scales, which are 
in reality coverings for both eggs and larvae. The scales as a 
rule are exudations of the female, and are of different forms. 
One for instance is known as ' the Mussel Scale {JMytilaspis 
pomortwt), on account of its resemblance (Fig. 707) to that 
animal. This covering is not readily acted upon by outside 
influences, and is quite proof after a time against the ordinary 
insecticides. Again, Scale Insects are most in evidence at a 
time when radical measures cannot be 
adopted. Male Scales are active, often 
winged insects, but they are incapable 
of injuring plants, as when mature they 
have no mouth. 

For fruit-trees, whether under glass or 
outside, an effort should be made to apply 
an insecticide before the " Scale hardens. 
A recipe given by a Californian fruit- 
grower (Mr. jNIaxwell Heron) for a winter 
dressing is as follows : Unslacked lime, 
251b. ; sulphur, 2olb. ; salt, 151b. ; water, 
6ogals. Of this, place lolb. of the lime 
and all the sulphur with 2ogals. of water 
in a cauldron, and boil until all the sulphur 
is dissolved. Then take the remainder, 
slake it, and add enough water to make 
6ogals. in all. This should be kept stirred 
and applied warm ; no injury to the grow- 
ing buds is likely to result, we are told. 

Gishurst Compound is a capital insecti- 
cide for Scale ; while a ready-to-hand 
preparation is water at i5odeg., applied 
preferably in winter or early spring. 




Fig. 707. — Mussel 
Scale. 

(much magnified.) 



Silver Y-Moth {Plusia gamma). — 
The caterpillars of this insect do immense 

damage in the garden, particularly to herbaceous plants and 
vegetables. Little by way of food seems to come amiss. Their 
presence upon a Cabbage patch may readily be discovered, 
but they are not so readily seen, being green with whitish lines, 
and sparsely hairy. They pupate in a slight web spun on the 
under-side of the food-plant. The Moth is very distinct by reason 



1096 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



of the Y-like markings on the wings. The pests are double- 
brooded. Wherever Paris Green may with safety be employed 
that is the best remedy. In the case of garden vegetables the 
caterpillars should be hand-picked. 

Slugs and Snails are to be found in every garden, and they 
will attack almost any kind of plant outdoors or indoors, from a 
choice Orchid to the homely Cabbage or succulent Strawberry. 
Lime and soot plentifully distributed will tend to keep either at 
bay ; but as traps for Slugs, either brewers' grains or bran laid in 
heaps are the most alluring. Lime should be applied on a dry 
day, and a second dressing should be given after dark. The 
first may be thrown off by the Slugs with the exuded slime ; but 
the second usually sticks and proves fatal. Snails should be 
trapped by means of old boards slightly raised above the soil 
level. After their midnight revels they will seek shelter under 
the boards, from which they can be dislodged and killed. 
All Slugs, with the exception of the worm-eating Testacella 




Fig. 708. — Carnivorous Slug (Testacella haliotidea). 

(natural size.) 

haliotidea (Fig. 708), which is comparatively rare, are hurtful. The 
latter, however, feeds chiefly upon worms. It may be distinguished 
by the small ear-shaped shell on the hind extremity of its body, 
as well as by its size — 2^in. or thereabouts. 

Surface Caterpillars. — This is a popular name bestowed 
upon the Caterpillars of certain Moths on account of their 
habit of feeding near the surface. All are destructive to garden 
plants, especially in spring, when the succulent new growths are 
laid under contribution. Roots, low-growing plants of all kinds, 
and seedlings, are especially attractive to the large Caterpillars, 
which frequently gnaw right through that portion of the plant- 
stem beneath the ground. Being night-feeders they are not very 
well known by sight, and even when looked for by the aid of 
a lantern they are difficult to see, by reason of their colour 
harmonising so well with their surroundings. The commonest 
of Surface Caterpillars are those of the well-known Turnip 
Moth {Agrotis segetujji), the equally well-known Heart and 
Dart {A. exclamationis), the Garden Dart {A. nigricans)^ and 
the handsome Yellow Underwing {A. Triphcena promiba). Soot 
and lime dusted round such plants as Auriculas, Primroses, 
Polyanthuses, &c.," will protect them from the marauders ; while 
stirring the surface-soil with the hoe very frequently will help to 
get rid of the pests by exposing them to insectivorous birds. 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. IO97 

Thrips. — The very minute insects classed under this heading 
are found upon all sorts of plants, both outside and indoors. 
They are, as previously stated, dis- 
figuring to Rose-blossoms ; they also infest 
■Peas amongst vegetable crops ; while as 
fruit-pests they are chiefly notorious 
in connection with Grapes and Peaches. 
The insects are too small for their outward 
•conformation to be visible to the naked 
■eye. When viewed under a glass they are 
•of the shape shown at Fig. 709, their 
narrow wings being delicately fringed with 
hairs, and their general colour being dark. Fig. 709.— Thrip. 

They belong to the Thysanoptera, an order (much magnified.) 

of insects about which little comparatively 

is known. Thrips may be got rid of by means of water used 
at a temperature of i5odeg., or of a good vaporising insecticide. 

Vapourer Moth {Orgyia a7ttigud). — This is one of the 
commonest of garden pests, and there is scarcely any tree that 
comes amiss to its large, hairy, tufted caterpillars. Our London 
squares are infested with the pests, which attack any and every 
tree near — Hazels, Hawthorns, and Roses are favourites; but 
Maples and fruit-trees are badly infested. The caterpillars 
are strikingly beautiful. They are about i^in. long when 
full-fed ; grey, with red spots in the dorsal region, and 
whitish hairs. The most remarkable parts of the caterpillar 
are the peculiar tufts on the body, which vary, with their 
■disposition on the segments, from black to yellowish. The 
female Moth is incapable of flight, but her mate has ample 
wings, and may be seen flying in the daytime. He is lin. or 
more in wing-expanse, and is a combination of ochreous-brown 
and orange-brown. The eggs are deposited on the old cocoons, 
which are hairy, and usually spun upon the food-plant or in 
the vicinity. All eggs, females, and cocoons, should be destroyed. 
Trees and shrubs, w^here possible, should be sprayed with 
Paris Green. Very little assistance does the gardener get from 
the birds, which will not tackle such hairy caterpillars as those 
■of the Vapourer Moth, they being very objectionable if not 
actually poisonous. Fortunately they are very conspicuous, and 
may therefore be hand-picked. This Moth is a near relative of 
the pest known as the Nun i^Psilura vwnacha)^ which in Germany 
is exceedingly destructive to Conifers. 

Wasps. — All the Social Wasps known to this country are 
more or less injurious in gardens where there is ripened or 
ripening fruit. They are too well known to need any description. 
The first thing that the gardener should do is to destroy all 
Queen-Wasps in spring, as these are the founders of the colonies 




1098 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



10 mm. 




which give trouble later. Next all nests should be treated to 
cyanide of potassium when found. This is a deadly poison, but 
it is very effectual in stamping out Wasp-colonies. loz. of 
cyanide to half a pint of water will make a solution of sufficient 
strength. In this should be dipped something fairly absorbent — 
a piece of flannel — and this should be thrust well down the hole 
in the evening, when most of the Wasps are at home. Many other 

mixtures are advocated, but none are so 
effective as cyanide of potassium, which the 
gardener must take care not to inhale. 

In fruit-houses, despite every precaution, 
Wasps manage to gain an entrance. If, 
however, a wide-mouthed bottle containing 
some syrupy liquid be hung in the vicinity 
of the ripening fruits, the Wasps are almost 
certain to be attracted thither, and be caught. 
Outdoors it will also pay to hang similar 
bottles in the trees. 

There are yet other Wasps which are 
of the greatest service. Those, however, 
are Solitary, and are popularly known as 
Sand - Wasps. There are a number of 
species, all of which are smaller than their 
Social relatives, while the body is far more 
peg-top like. These are all carnivorous, 
and collect vast numbers of injurious cater- 
pillars, &:c., which, after paralysing them, they take ' to their 
underground nests to furnish the young with food. 

Weevils. — Belonging to several families 
of the Rhyiicophora are three or four 
species more than ordinarily destructive, 
and popularly described as Weevils, a name 
which by coleopterists is reserved for the 
CurculionidcE alone. The leading characters 
of the group are the prolongation of the 
head in front to form a snout or beak, 
and the four-jointed tarsi. The species 
calling for mention here by reason of their 
omnivorous propensities and their abundance 
are the Black Vine Weevil (Otior?-hynchus 
suicatiis, Fig. 710), Apricot Weevil {O. tene- 
bricosiis, Fig. 711), Clay-coloured Vine 
Weevil ((9. picipes, Fig. 712), and the 
Apple Blossom Weevil. 

The first three have much in common, and will be dealt with 
together. O. siilcatiis is the one most to be dreaded, as nothing 
seems to come amiss to it ; in length it is about -^in., and black 
and furrowed. The perfect Beetle may be found upon a 



Fig. 710. — Black Vine 
Weevil. 



ivs 




Fig. 



711. — Apricot 
Weevil. 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. 



1099 




Fig. 712. — Clay- 
COLOUREU Vine 
Weevil. 



variety of outdoor and indoor plants, feeding upon the leaves and 
shoots, while its grubs feed upon the roots, completing the work 
of destruction. O. picipes is a dark brown insect, with yellowish 
scales. It is somewhat smaller than the first - named and 
exhibits not quite such diversified tastes. On Vines, Raspberries, 
and many outdoor fruits it is found alike as a perfect insect 
. y«<- , and a grub. O. tenebricosus is commonly 

know^n as the Apricot Weevil, but, like 
the other species named, it also lays 
several other plants under contribution — 
Nectarines, Plums, Peaches, and Rasp- 
berries. In size it is about ^in., black, 
covered with yellowish down. 

These three Beetles are all night feeders. 
They are very wary ; so that the greatest 
care must be exercised to trap them. 
Sheets of tar-covered white paper should 
be laid down beneath the infested trees 
at dusk. As soon as it is dark the 
trees should be visited, and tapped. 
The Beetles will drop on to the sticky paper, from which 
they may be collected and destroyed. All holes in walls 
likely to afford shelter to the pests must be stopped up in 
winter. 

So far as the grubs are concerned, little can be done except 
to remove the soil to a depth of several inches, and char it, 
replacing with fresh. 

Anthonomus pomorum (Fig. 713) attacks both Apples and 
Pears : with the former, however, the insect is usually identified. 
The Beetles appear on the wing in early 
spring. They are about one fifth of an 
inch long, reddish-brown, with a somewhat 
irregular light band towards the base of 
the wing-cases. As will be seen in the 
illustration, there is the prolongation of 
the head into a beak-like organ. The 
females puncture the unexpanded flower- 
buds, and deposit therein an egg. The 
larvae, when hatched, feed upon the buds, 
causing them to prematurely fall. At this 
period the insects are often in the pupal 
state, and if the fallen buds could be readily 
collected and destroyed, the numbers of the pests would be 
sensibly diminished. The trees should also be shaken at the 
time the insects are egg-laying, as many will be dislodged by 
this means When the perfect insect stage is assumed in 
summer, the Beetles feed upon the foliage, which should be 
sprayed with Paris Green. The winter is passed in the Beetle 




Fig. 713. — Apple 
Blossom Weevil. 



I lOO 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



stage, sometimes in the crevices of loose and old bark, at others 
under the trees themselves just beneath the surface-soil, or any 
rubbish, such as fallen leaves, which has been allowed to 
accumulate. 

Winter Moth {Chewiatohia brumata). — To hardy fruit-trees 
like i\pples and Pears there are no worse pests than the cater- 
pillars of the above Moth, which attack the trees in early spring. 
Many forest and landscape trees are also laid under contribution. 
The male flies towards dusk in late summer, but the female is 
unable to fly. The perfect insects are found right into the 



Fig. 714. — Male, Female, and Caterpillar of dant pest, taking 



the trees are in blossom, and that the foliage is well wetted. 
As a preventive measure all orchard trees should be grease- 
banded in autumn, using Willesden or similar grease-proof paper. 
The bands should be frequently examined, and any females 
caught destroyed, w^hile the grease should be renewed as it 
becomes necessary. Male and female j\Ioih and caterpillar are 
shown at Fig. 714. 

WiREWORMS. — By this popular name are designated several 
most destructive insects, the larvae, or grubs, of certain species 
of Click Beetles, but principally of Agriotes lineatus. The Beetles 
themselves (Fig. 715) are not sufficiently destructive to call for 
special measures being taken. The grubs are, when full-fed, about 
lin. long, nearly cylindrical in form (Fig. 715), and of a dirty 
yellow colour. Unlike the majority of insects these pests remain at 
least two years in the larval state. The damage they do to such 
vegetables as Carrots, Cabbages, Cauliflowers, Potatoes, Parsley, 
Lettuce, &c., to such flowers as Carnations, Iris, Gladioli, and 




New Year. The 
Moths are too 
small to be 
generally noticed. 
If a female (with 
r u d i m e n t a r y 
wings) should be 
seen in early 
autumn she 
should be des- 
troyed. The 
mature caterpillar 
is greyish-yellow, 
with white stripe. 
Paris Green is the 
remedy to employ 
against the abun- 



Winter Moth. 



care that it is 
not used while 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. IIOI 

Pansies, as well as to cereals, is enormous. They feed upon the 
living roots and underground stems, and plants attacked soon 
present a sickly appearance. 

When once fairly established, they are difficult to combat, and 
nothing short of radical measures will suffice. x-\llowing the 
ground to lie fallow and then dressing with gas-lime, laid on 
^in. or so thick, has proved of assistance in very bad attacks. 
Deep cultivation is also of great service in small gardens, com- 
bined with dressings of soot and lime in equal proportions. 
Where, however, Potatoes are grown, Air. x\bbey recommends 
the employment of kainit and nitrate of soda, mixed, at the rate 
of 2lb. per rod on ordinary garden land. This, the writer 




Fig. 715. — I AXD la, Agriotes lineatus; 2 and 2a, Agriotes sputator • 
3 AND 3a, Agriotes obscurus ; All Natural Size and ^STagnified. 
4, Larva of Agriotes lineatus; 5, Pupa; Xatural Size. 

{By permission of the Board oj Agriculture.) 



further suggests in the Joiii-nal of Horticulture^ is equally good for 
other root-feeding pests, like Eelworms, Leather-Jackets, and 
Mites. The kainit and soda should be crushed fine and be 
evenly distributed when the ground is moist, with a prospect of 
fine weather for a few days. 

The old-fashioned method of trapping by means of pieces of 
sliced vegetable through which a stick has been thrust is slow, 
and would only be of use in very small gardens and slight attacks. 
By way of prevention, soil used for potting should be carefully 
examined, and all Wireworms picked out and destroyed. Beneficial 
results have follow^ed the ploughing-in of a crop of mustard. 
Mustard dross very lightly dredged over the surface of the soil 
in the case of flowering plants is equally useful. Wireworms 
are usually most troublesome in newly-made gardens where the 
top spit of pasture land has been employed. 

Wood-feeding Insects embrace the Caterpillars of the Goat 
Moth [Cosstis ligniperda^ Fig. 716), which are met with in fruit- 
trees as well as in Willows, Poplars, Ash, and many other trees. 
They are exceedingly destructive, living as they do some three 
years as larvae, and in enormous numbers. They tunnel the 



I I02 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



trees, and in time quite destroy the heart-wood. The Caterpillars 
are pinkish at first, but just prior to assuming the pupal state 
they are yellowish. 

Another wood-feeder is the scarcer and more beautiful Wood 
Leopard Moth Caterpillar. This affects the young branches 




Fig. 716. — Goat Moth. 

(natural size.) 



shape 




Fig. 717 



rather than the trunks, and Apples, Pears, Plums, and many 
allied trees harbour the pests. The Moths are white with steel- 
blue spots, and measure 2 in, or more in wing-expanse. The 
female is provided with an ovipositor. The larvae are of the 
shown at Fig. 717, and are covered with black dots. 

These insects do not so readily 
betray their presence as do the 
Goat Moth Caterpillars, as they 
cover up their exit-holes. A 
piece of copper-wire should be 
thrust into the holes made by 
these w^ood-feeding larv^ ; or 
some powerful insecticide may 
be squirted into their tunnels if possible. It is also a good 
plan to seal over the entrance- holes, to preserve the trees as 
far as possible. 

WooDLiCE.— These Crustaceans feed upon a variety of crops, 
but are especially destructive to Indoor Mushrooms, Melons, and 
to plants in frames generally. Pots half filled with hay and laid 
upon their sides are excellent traps if they are examined each day. 
If, however, the pests congregate in a place at all accessible, hot 
water should be poured over them. Sliced vegetables also make 
good traps. The most effective lure the writer has tried is one 



/1 7. — Larva of Wood 
Leopard Moth. 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. 



II03 



lor which he was indebted to the Journal of the Pharmaceutical 
Society. Cut some long strips of brown-paper, bend them over 
like a conduplicate leaf, and smear on one side a mixture of 
treacle, foot-sugar, and beer. They will crowd to this feast, when 
the papers may be lifted and shaken over a vessel of boiling 
water. Small flower-pots similarly treated on the inside will 
prove equally as attractive. 

Vegetable Foes. 

Compared with Animal Pests those belonging to the Vegetable 
group are numerically insignificant, yet they are even more 
insidious, as well as more difficult to cope with because, as 
regards their life-histories, so much remains to be perfected. 
Vegetable pathology, though no new science, is yet in its infancy. 
More than half a century ago there were earnest workers in the 
field, as evidenced by the more stable literature of the day, as 
well as by the record in the more ephemeral gardening press. 
Until the last twenty years, however — at any rate, so far as this 
country is concerned — there have been few who have attempted 
to follow in the lead that Berkeley established in the case of 
parasitic fungi. These, of all Vegetable Pests, are the most com- 
plicated to the average gardener, as they are also the most 
numerous, and the most disastrous and far-reaching in their 
effects. As a proof of this latter, one has but to instance the 
Sleeping Disease of Tomatoes {Fusarium lycopersici), of which 
so much has lately been heard, both in Guernsey and in this 
country, where a whole season's crop may have to be sacrificed 
owing to the seed having been obtained from a diseased 
source. 

To many gardeners the methods by which fungoid diseases 
are reproduced are absolutely unknown, and such visitations as 
-Mildew of various kinds are attributed to chance, or oftener to 
weather influences. Then there is a still larger section who 
regard such diseases as "not proven," or their injurious properties 
as having been exaggerated. Even to-day there are thousands 
.who believe that the disease of Apple and other trees, popularly 
called Canker, may be remedied by improving the soil, or by 
keeping the roots out of the sub-soil. That such treatment will 
benefit trees under certain conditions there cannot be a shadow 
of a doubt, but that it will cure Canker proper is incorrect. 
Canker is due to the attack of a specific fungus, usually 
Nectria ditissijiia, which gains access by means of a wound. 
Once there the disease rapidly spreads, and when ready to 
produce its fruits, or spores, it causes the bark to crack ; or 
again, to be distorted in the way shown at Fig. 718, disclosing 
the affected parts. In spring, if such trees be examined even 
without the aid of a glass, the deep red perithecia (spore-bearing 
cases) will be detected. 



1 104 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Such perithecia disclose their contents, and the spores are 
released to be distributed by insects, birds, wind, or even by- 
man himself, those finding a suitable " home " germinating, 
increasing the area of the disease. And similarly with other 
parasitic fungi which attack leaves, &c. The gardener's chief 
difficulty with all is that his first acquaintance with any is usually 
when much mischief has been done. His first indications are 
when the fungus has existed sufficiently long to produce out- 
ward characteristics — like the familiar Mildew on the Straw- 
berry, the " Rust " on Chrysanthemum, or the Mushrooms in 
the roots of his orchard and landscape trees like Agaricus 
vielleiis {^Armillaria melled). Again, he does not seem able to 




Fig. 718. — Portion of Cankered Tree, due 10 Xectria ditissima. 

(By permission of the Board of Agticiilture.) 

reconcile the fact that such fungi have forms of fruits, or 
spores, varying with the seasons ; each has its part to play in 
the reproduction, or it may be in the extension of the infected 
area, of the species. Then just as there are in the Animal World 
certain parasites — like, say, the hydatid which causes gid in sheep,, 
and which needs another host, the dog, to complete the cycle, 
so there are certain small fungi (called heteroecious) which 
require two plants — sometimes of widely different natural 
orders — to complete the cycle. The Gooseberry Rust {^^cidium 
grossularice)^ whose orange-red patches are familiar upon the 
foliage and fruit of that plant, is but the Cluster-Cup stage of 
Piiccinia Fringsheimiana, whose other stages are found upon 
Carex acuta and Carex Goodenovi ; while the Rust, found on the 
leaves and other parts of Barberries, is likewise a stage in the 
life-history of a still more destructive fungus known as Wheat 
Rust i^Puccinia gi-aminis). These are only two familiar examples 
of heteroecious fungi. Many others might be cited. 

Parasitic fungi reproduce their kind in various ways. One of 
the commonest, however, is by means of fruits which are equivalent 
to the seeds of flowering plants, though differing from them in 
never enclosing an embryo, or young plant. They, moreover^ 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. 



1 105 



are of more than one kind, each, as previously stated, having a 
particular part to fulfil. The forms of fruits (or rather the appear- 
ance of the plants when such fruits are ripe) with which the 
gardener is familiar are the spring and summer ones. The winter 
fruit is absolutely unknown because, being a resting stage, it is 
passed in the soil, or it may be in the decaying parts of the plant, 
until the following season, when it resumes activity, and only needs 
to come in contact with a host-plant whose parts are favourable to 
its development, to commence again the cycle of life. The summer 
form of fruit is produced very rapidly, and as it is scattered so 
readily in various ways, unless the surrounding plants of the 
same kind are protected in some way they are sure to fall 
victims. Thus it is that spraying with a fungicide a house of 
plants from which say one unhealthy one has been removed, 
is of the utmost value, as it renders the susceptible parts 
non-susceptible. In other words, the fruit which is carried — 
it may be on the leaves — will not germinate, even though 
the conditions generally are favourable. Still, with every 
precaution taken, so minute are the bodies responsible for 
reproduction, and so difiicult is it to be certain that all parts 
of the plant liable to infestation are covered, that some of the 
summer fruits are likely to find a place and go on extending 
the disease. A second spraying in ten days or so might therefore 
be adopted. When, however, plants in houses or outside have 
been known to be attacked one season, it will usually pay to 
spray early in spring, even as a precautionary measure. Many 
gardeners omit to do this, which accounts possibly for their 
lailure to battle with many a fungoid disease. 

As to the actual fungicide, this will vary with the nature of 
the plant — and particularly whether it is flowers or fruit ; and 
again whether the latter is of an age suitable to be marketed, 
as it would obviously never do to use Bordeaux Mixture, 
which disfigures plants or fruit treated therewith, if such were 
ready, or even nearly ready for the salesman. Xor, again, 
should we advise ornamental subjects to be so treated. For all 
that there is no need to fear any ill effect, in so far as the con- 
sumer of fruit so sprayed is concerned. In America, where Bordeaux 
Mixture is very largely employed to keep under control those 
fungoid diseases affecting plants, a preparation of cider-vinegar is 
used in the case of Grapes to remove the discoloration already 
alluded to. 

A very popular notion prevails that once a plant attacked 
with fungus dies, the trouble is at an end. This is, however, 
far from being the case, as the majority of the most troublesome 
diseases are tided over the resting period of the plant by the 
winter fruits already alluded to. For this reason the grower 
cannot be too particular in getting rid of every particle of 
rubbish — leaves, prunings, &c., by burning, returning the ashes 

4 K 



I io6 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 




to the soil. This \Yill minimise considerably the trouble from 
such a source ; while, if it is possible to apply a dressing of lime 
in winter beneath trees so affected, this would further help the 
grower to battle with the disease. 

Other means of reproducing such diseases of parasitic fungi 
are by the mycelium, or vegetative part of the plant. For this 
reason where trees are attacked by fungi like Arinillaria mellea^ 
Trametes pijii, Szc, the practice of isolating such by means of 
trenches is adopted. Hartig, in his excellent work upon "The 
Diseases of Trees," says that if this is carefully carried out it 
is a certain preventive against the spread of the disease. 

Another most prolific source of reproduction is found in 
Sclerotia which are produced by certain fungi affecting Potatoes, 

^Marrows, Beans, and many bulbous plants. 
As the name suggests, they consist of /lard 
structures which are of variable size, colour, 
and form. Frequently, however, they are 
roundish or oval (Fig. 719), and black ; they 
are also numerous. It is within the last 
few years that Sclerotia in connection 
with several well-known fungoid diseases 
have been discovered — the Lily Disease 
for instance. In this Prof. ^Marshall Ward 
compares them to mice - droppings, and 
suggests how readily they might be 
mistaken for '* foreign bodies." Then 
there is an extremely troublesome fungus 
popularly called the Sclerotium disease 
i^Sclei'otmus Sclerofio?nn?i), which affects a 
host of plants, the Sclerotia being of large size. Burning those 
affected is all that can be done. 

Sclerotia are sometimes found only in dead plants ; at others 
only in living ones. In no case, however, do they resume activity 
until the host-plant itself is well advanced. Usually they rest in 
the soil through the winter, the hard, outer coat serving to pro- 
tect the soft inner contents of felted mvcelium from frost and 
cold. 

Mention has already been made of the desirability 
ing and burning all rubbish, such as leaves and 
fallen fruits should be included in the same category, 
from plants infested with fungi should never be taken, and seeds 
from a similar source are also to be avoided. Some varieties of 
vegetables and fruits have proved themselves if not exactly 
disease-proof, at least partially resistant, and all the principal 
nurserymen may be relied upon to supply them. Potatoes have 
been vastly improved in constitutional vigour. Unfortunately, 
some of our finest hardy fruits have proved least capable 
of resisting disease than others. Cox's Orange Pippin cankers badly 



Fig. 719.— Sclerotium 
OF Peziza postuma 

(natural size), with two Cups 
on slender stalks. 



of collect- 
prunings : 
Cuttings 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. 



I 107 



despite every care in its cultivation. Another factor for the 
practical gardener to consider is the question of cropping. The 
practice of growing the same crop, or even one liable to similar 
diseases, year after year, on the same spot, is to be condemned, 
as the cultivator's trouble is only increased. Too little attention 
is also paid to fruit and other receptacles, and by this means 
it is quite possible to introduce a most troublesome disease into 
an area that previously boasted an immunity therefrom. 

Of the standard fungicides there can be no question as to 
the practical value of the Bordeaux Mixture, for whose intro- 
duction we are indebted to Millardet, who first experimented 
with it in 1882. It was, however, several years after that date 
that the preparation was given a really practical trial. The 
Gardener' s Chronicle was the first to advocate the use of the 
Bordeaux Mixture, and an article on the subject appeared in 
that journal in 1885. The reports from the first few trials here 
were hardly favourably regarded, as it was found that the mixture, 
as originally propounded, scorched the foliage, especially in the 
young and tender stage. It was then considerably modified, and 
a safe formula is as follows : 

Bordeaux Mixture. — Copper sulphate, 61b. ; unslacked lime, 
41b. ; water, 5ogals. Dissolve the copper sulphate (in an 
earthen or wooden vessel) by tying it in a piece of coarse 
sacking and suspending it by means of a stick across the vessel, 
which should contain half the amount of water given in above 
recipe. Next slack the lime in another vessel, adding the water 
by degrees until a smooth paste has been formed, quite free 
from lumps. Add sufficient water to bring the water up to 
the maximum required, and allow to cool. The two mixtures 
should now be poured slowly into a large tub capable of holding 
6ogals. or more, and well stirred for a time with a piece of 
wood. 

Some writers, Ferret for instance, recommends the addition of 
41b. of molasses to the mixture, with a view to increasing its 
adhesiveness, while others advocate a similar quantity of soft 
soap. The preparation should be got ready and used the same 
day, as after a time the copper sulphate is precipitated, and 
requires constant stirring, otherwise the mixture would be inert 
as a fungicide. 

Even the 5ogal. formula may be found too strong for young 
foliage and the tenderer fruits, like Peaches and Nectarines. 
In that case it ' would be advisable to increase the quantity of 
quicklime, and add water to 6ogals. For Potatoes, Apples, Pears, 
Plums, and Gooseberries the 5ogal. formula will usually suffice ; 
but for Vines, Peaches, and Nectarines the weaker mixture will 
be safer. The spraying should not be continued later than six 
weeks prior to the fruit being required for market or table — on 
account of appearances alone. 

4 B 2 



iio8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Potassiin7i Sulphide {Liver of Sulphur). — Potassium sulphide, 
^oz. ; hot water, igal. Apply when cool. This fungicide has the 
advantage over Bordeaux Mixture that it leaves no spotting on 
the fruit or plants. Excellent for Mildew. 

Flowers of Sulphur. — Though this has been largely super- 
seded for various forms of Mildew by the Liver of Sulphur liquid 
above named, it is nevertheless useful, as the substance is to 
be found in most houses, and promptitude in dealing with pests 
of any kind is important. This is best applied in the early 
morning. ' 

Copper Sulphate Solution. — A useful preparation to apply 
as a wi?iter dressing only to plants which have been known to 
be infested the previous season. Vines and other fruit-trees 
may be treated with advantage, as also the walls of greenhouses, 
as the preparation destroys the resting-spores of destructive 
parasitic fungi. To ilb. of sulphate of copper 2 5gals. of water 
should be employed. To use this solution on foliage would be 
fatal. 

Ainmo7iiacal Solution of Copper Ca7'honate. — This makes a clear 
fungicide, and may be employed where Bordeaux Mixture would 
be prohibited. According to Mr. Clarence M. Weed it has been 
successfully used in Apple Scab^, Mildews, <S:c. His formula is 
as follows : Carbonate of copper, 40Z. ; strong ammonia, ^gal. ; 
water, 45gal. Mix the carbonate of copper with sufficient water 
to form a paste, then add to the ammonia. Another advantage 
of the fungicide is that the constant clogging of spraying nozzles 
is obviated. 

Spraying Machi?ies. — With these there is plenty of choice, and 
the selection will depend largely upon the class of plants to be 
sprayed — whether tall or dwarf, or whether outside or indoors. 
The efficacy of a fungicide depends rather upon its method of 
application than on any particular kind of machine. Boulton 
and Paul are makers of first class spraying machines to suit all 
gardens. In small gardens and with dwarf trees, Clarke's 
Vermorel Knapsack Machine is a useful appliance. There are 
also kept by all first class firms of horticultural sundries-men 
nozzles to suit every class of work, fine or coarse. 

In the enumeration of plant diseases which follow, only those 
affecting several kinds are noticed. Where, however, the disease 
infesting any particular plant is sufficiently well known to come 
under the designation of a pest, it has been dealt with under its 
host-plant. 

Apple and Pear Scab (^Fusicladiiun de7idriticuni) is a 
disease very familiar to the ordinary observer, as the spotted 
appearance of the fruit renders it most unsightly and unsaleable, 
as in bad cases the fruits crack. Spraying with weak Bordeaux 
Mixture early in the season is the treatment advocated by 
American specialists in plant diseases where Apple Scab is 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. 



1 109 



extremely common. According to the Cornell Agricultural 
Bulletins, the tmie to spray is before the blossoms open, and 
again when they have fallen. This should suffice in dry seasons ; 
but in wet ones it may be necessary to spray three or four 
times more at intervals of about ten days. 

Armillarl\ mellea (Agaricus aielleus). — This is a most 
destructive fungus found upon living ornamental trees, such as 
Conifers, as well as upon orchard trees. It is responsible for the 
disease known as Tree Root Rot. The fundus (Fie. 720) is most 
abundant, and is 
found both as a 
saprophyte and as 
a parasite. The 
clusters of Mush- 
rooms at the base 
of trees are very 
familiar ; they are, 
moreover, con- 
spicuous alike as to 
size and colouring. 
The cap is of a pale 
yellow, with darkish 
scales upon it ; the 
stem is also yellow. 
The fungus finds 
access to healthy 
trees either by means 
of its spores, which 
germinate on an in- 
jured part of the 
bark ; or by means 
of the very peculiar 
mycelium, which is 
black and stringlike, 
and always endeavouring to penetrate the roots of healthy trees. 
The only thing that can be said in favour of this fungus is that 
its sporophores, or Mushrooms, are edible, though not particularly 
rich in flavour, being somewhat strong. Care should be taken 
to carefully remove and either eat or burn all specimens of the 
fungus, so that the danger of trees being infested by the spores 
which are shed is minimised. The mycelium found under the 
bark is white and felted. 

Once a tree has been badly attacked nothing can save it from 
destruction, as the mycelium spreads under the bark with 
considerable rapidity. Preventive rather than remedial measures 
should be adopted. These may well consist in the removal of 
all dead stumps (Fig. 720) on which the fungus is growing as 
a saprophyte ; and in isolating the infected live trees by means 




Fig. 720. — Mass of Armillaria mellea OiN 
Root of Young Pine. 

a, a, a, Mycelium in form known as Rhizomorphs ; 

b, Very young Spore-bearers produced on Rhizomorphs ; 

d. Older Spore-bearers (Agaricus melleus) produced by 
Mycelium under the bark. 



mo 



THE BOOK OF GARDP:NIXG. 



of narrow trenches some distance from the trunk. This is 
Hartig's method of coping with the disease, though care must 
be taken to see that all roots encountered are severed. 

Brown Fruit Rot (Mojiilia fructige?ia). — In America this 
fungoid disease is very prevalent, and in some seasons the 
Peach crop is practically- destroyed. Kere the disease is 
practically restricted to the Apple ; but inasmuch as it 
will attack Plums, Cherries, and many other fruits, it is not 
a desirable visitor. The fruit on which the disease is 
generally noticed has dark discoloured spots upon the sur- 
face, and after a time it commences to shrivel. Leaves 
and shoots are also involved. According to Lodeman the 
disease may be controlled by the use of the simple sulphate 
of copper solution just before the buds begin to swell ; and 
later by the Bordeaux ^Mixture. All shrivelled fruits should 
be removed and burned, otherwise the tree next spring will 
be infected again. 

Damping Off. — Practically every gardener has had the 
unpleasant experience with his seedlings suggested by the above 
heading. The cause of the young plants collapsing in this 
characteristic fashion is due to a fungus (usually Pythium de 
ba7'\ anil 111). At first but few of the plants appear to be 
attacked and fall over, but in a very short time the whole 
of them in seed-bed or seed-pan are involved, turn pale, rot 
away, and are covered by a white thread-like mycelium. Cru- 
ciferous plants, and especially ]\Iustard and Cress, are very 
prone to the disease, though it is not restricted to any one, 
or, indeed, to any section of plants. The point of attack is 
in the stem, just above the soil-line. The fungus is most 
fatal to seedlings kept too damp, or those from which 
light and air are excluded. Those who grow numbers of 
plants from seeds watch them very closely, and as soon as 
they notice a few of them toppling over they at once remove 
them, and alter the conditions under which the seedlings are 
being raised. Care should also be taken not to utilise the 
same patch the next season for seedling-raising, as oospores are 
developed, which live through the winter. The fungus also lives 
as a saprophyte. 

Fingers and Toes, Club Root, and Anbury. — This disease, 
due to one of the Slime Fungi {^^yxo??lycetes) has already been 
touched upon in the Chapter " On Vegetable Culture." The 
species responsible for the mischief is Plasmodiophora brassiccB^ 
and the excrescences upon the roots of cruciferous plants, generally 
Candytuft, Wallflowers, Stocks, as well as upon the members 
of the Cabbage tribe, are too well known. Remedial and 
preventive measures will be found under "Cabbage'' in 
the Chapter "On Vegetable Culture.'' 



ox PESTS GENERALLY. 



IIII 



Lichen is met with on orchard and other trees, particularly 
those upon poor soils and upon which not much attention has 
been bestowed. It is objectionable chiefly because of the 
harbourage it affords to many very destructive species of insects. 
Winter dressings of ordinary commercial potash and caustic soda 
(in the proportion of ^Ib. of each to 6gals. of water) is the best 
remedy to apply, first having scraped the trunks, but taking care 
not to penetrate the bark. The dressing recommended will not 
only destroy the Lichen, but will kill many kinds of insects found 
thereon. This must be used as a ivinter dressing only, and the 
operator should wear thick gloves. In the case of Peach- and 
Apricot-trees, which push their buds early, the greatest care 
must be taken, as the mixture is likely to prove injurious to 
forward buds. It should be applied hot. Bordeaux Mixture, 
sprayed on in winter, may also be employed in the case of 
Lichen-grown trees. Errors in cultivation or poor soils must, of 
course, be attended to. or the trees will be again speedily 
attacked. 

^NIiLDEWS.^ — -By this name are popularly designated a number 
of fungi affecting various plants and substances. Scientifically 
the true Mildews are known as ErysiphecE^ to distinguish them 
from PeroiiosporecE. The chief characteristic is that the mycelium 
is white, and is found on the outer surface of leaves, fruits, 
and stems. Mildews appear year after year if measures are 
not taken in summer to prevent the conidia from germinating. 
They are tided over the winter by means of ascospores. Sulphur 
in some form is the best fungicide with which to combat 
Mildews, sulphide of potassium and flowers of sulphur both being 
employed. The work must be thoroughly done, and often 
repeated. Hot water should also be tried. 

PoLYPORUS. — To this genus belong several species with which the 
gardener, and especially the landscape gardener, and fruit cultivator, 
should be acquainted. Many are very destructive, and occur on 
a very large number of trees — P. sidphureus^ for instance, whose 
yellow sporophores are common upon Oak, Apple, Pear, and 
many other trees. The spores gain access through a wound, the 
internal parts of the tree are involved, the wood assuming 
a reddish tint, and finally rotting ensues. The sporophores 
should be removed and burned as soon as possible, otherwise 
multitudes of spores will be released and disseminated. Trees 
which are accidentally injured should at least have a dressing 
of tar applied to the wounds. It is useless attempting to deal 
with the mycelium. 

Another destructive species is P. hispidus, found upon fruit- 
trees generally, as well as upon Ash, &c. The sporophores are 
dark brown, and rough on the upper surface, and with smooth 
yellowish pores. They are of large size, and are common 
objects on the trunks of their host-plants. Like the preceding 



I I I 2 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



species it is a wound-parasite. P. sqiiauiostis also occurs on a 
number of trees, Maple, Oak, Mountain Ash, Horse-Chestnut, 
and many others. The semi-circular sporophores are yellowish- 
white on top, with darker scales (hence the specific name). 
Then there are also the destructive and distinctive P. betulinus^ 
on Beech, and P. d?yadei(s, on Oak, both having hoof-like 
sporophores, and many others. 

PoLYSTiGMA RUBRUM. — This is a well-marked fungus attack- 
ing Plums (both w^ild and cultivated), Bird Cherries, &c. The 
leaves are frequently disfigured by somewhat roundish patches ol 
a reddish colour, which, after a time, thicken. The disease is 
not a virulent one, and, moreover, is easily controlled by burning 
the infested leaves as they are shed. 

Rusts {Uredineai). — These fungi are almost as familiar as the 
Mildews. They differ, however, from the latter in many im- 
portant details. One is that the mycelium instead of being on 
the outer surface is intercellular — in the leaf or bark-tissues, 
as a rule. The life-histories of many are quite unknown, more 
particularly those species which are heteroecious. One of the 
best known of these Rust fungi is the Rose Rust (yPhi-aginidiuin 
subco7'ticatuiii)^ whose deep yellow patches may be found alike 
upon foliage and shoots of garden and wild Roses. Another 
familiar species is that causing Rust of Wheat {Piiccinia gfaini7iis), 
a heteroecious species whose aecidium-form is familiar to gardeners 
by reason of the orange-yellow spots on Be?'beris in spring. 
This species develops both uredospores and teleutospores upon 
wheat and other cereals. The former are bright orange-yellow, 
and appear in summer, and the latter are dark brown, with 
a harder coat, and are associated with autumn. The uredospores 
germinate readily in summer as soon as ripe ; but the teleuto- 
spores are for the purpose of carrying the disease over the time 
when the host-plant is resting. 

Two other examples of the Rusts may be instanced in the 
injurious Hollyhock Fungus {Puccinia vialvacearinii) and the 
Raspberry Rust {Phragmidiiim 7'ubi-idcei). Weak Bordeaux 
Mixture is useful in both the aecidium and uredospore con- 
ditions ; but the teleutospores, which are in the soil, are difficult 
to reach. Quicklime, where it can be applied with safety to the 
roots, might be useful; while the burning of all leaves, fruits, 
&c., from infested plants will also help to lessen the attack the 
following season. In the case of heteroecious species like 
Puccinia gi^aviinis^ whose aecidium-stage, as previously stated, 
is passed on BerbeiHs ; or Gymuosporangium sabinoe (destructive 
to Pear foliage), and whose teleutospore stage is passed upon the 
Common Juniper {/tniiperiis comvninis) and other species, care 
should be taken to uproot and destroy both the Barberry and 
the Juniper if they can be traced, often a matter of great 



ON PESTS GENERALLY. 



III3 



difficulty, seeing how readily and over what a distance spores 
may be carried. 

The subject of Plant Diseases is one of such absorbing interest 
and practical value to the gardener that in these exacting days 
he cannot afford to remain ignorant of at least the chief diseases 
affecting his crops. So vast a subject, of course, could only be 
adequately treated in a decent-sized volume, and those who 
would pursue the subject further than is possible here, should 
obtain Prof. Marshall Ward's "Diseases of Plants,'"' Massie's 
"A Textbook of Plant Diseases," Lodeman's "The Spraying of 
Plants," with, if possible, Tuboeuf's " Diseases of Plants 
Induced by Cryptogamous Parasites," translated by Dr. W. G. 
Smith; and Hartig's "Diseases of Trees," translated by Prof. 
W. Somerville. 




Eyed Hawk-moth. 







Manures. 




By J. J. Willis 



As a prosperous system of horticulture can 
only be built upon a fertile soil, it is self- 
evident that the maintenance of the fertility 
of the soil is one of the most important of 
all economic problems to the practical 
gardener. Further, it is acknowledged that 
an indifferent system of manuring is at the root of a great 
many well-founded complaints of failure in various branches of 
horticulture, and in fruit culture in particular. 

That a soil may be speedily reduced in fertility under an 
improvident method of gardening, and that the original fertility 
of a once productive soil may be restored, although sometimes 
slowly and laboriously, are matters of common observation. 

The reason why soils require the addition of manures is 
apparent when we remember the continual process of exhaus- 
tion that goes on, due to the growth of plants year after 
year ; and profitable gardening necessitates the maintenance of 
the soil in an increasing, rather than a diminishing, state of 
fertility. At the same time, it must be borne in mind that to 
use manures on a soil which does not require them, or to add 
manures in great excess, or to apply those not required by 
the particular crop under cultivation, is so much waste of 
money. 

In order to grow a full crop, or a maximum healthy plant, 
whether for foliage, flowers, or fruit, it is necessary, even sup- 
posing that conditions of moisture, heat, and lisht, with texture 



ON MANURES. I I I 5 

and porosity of soil are all favourable, that the soil contain, within 
reach of the roots of the crop, a sufficient supply of all the food- 
constituents, both of minerals and of nitrogen, which the plant 
cannot obtain from the atmosphere ; also that these be in an 
available and assimilable form. In other words, this food must 
be capable of being dissolved by soil-water during the growth 
of the plant. 

It is not merely essential that the soil contain so much 
nitrogen, potash, phosphoric acid, and lime, but rather that it 
should contain enough plant-food to yield up to the water 
percolating through the soil during the period when the crop is 
in active growth, and that the growing plant can take these 
elements through its rootlets. 

The real point at issue, then, is to learn to what extent the 
gardener may call in the aid of discoveries of modern chemical 
science in making more effective the empirical methods of his 
forefathers, or whether he may substitute for those old systems of 
feeding plants others yet more effective and certain. 

Constituents and Sources of Plant=food. 

The carbon of all green-leaved plants is absorbed directly, and 
practically exclusively, from the atmosphere through the medium 
of the foliage. At least the soil supply of carbon is a matter of 
minor importance. In fact. Sir John Lawes and Sir Henry 
Gilbert have found in their invaluable experiments at Rothamsted, 
Hertfordshire, that an average of about 25001b. of carbon can be 
annually assimilated by growing plants over an acre of land 
without an ounce of carbonaceous manure being applied to it. 

The oxygen of green-leaved plants is chiefly absorbed in like 
manner by the foliage, or is taken up by the roots in com- 
bination with hydrogen, in the form of water, although a small 
and comparatively unimportant source of oxygen and of hydro- 
gen may be found in the breaking up of nitrates and ammonia 
within the soil. 

The nitrogen of most garden plants is obtained invariably 
from the soil, either directly from compounds of nitrogen wich 
oxygen, or from mineral and organic compounds — such as nitric 
acid, ammonia, nitrates, and humus. Or it may be obtained 
indirectly through symbiotic growth of micro-organisms living in 
the soil, which have the power of assimilating the free and 
uncombined nitrogen of the atmosphere. This symbiotic growth 
is apparently almost altogether confined, so far as is yet known, 
to species of plants belonging to the leguminous family, of 
which Beans, Peas, Clovers, and Lupins are examples : and 
possibly Orchids may be included in the list. 



1 1 16 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



The mineral constituents of plants — that is, those ingredients 
which are found in the ashes of plants when these are sub- 
mitted to the process of burning — are taken directly from the 
soil, being absorbed by the roots in the form of solution in 
water. x\bout thirteen difterent chemical elements will be found 
on analysis in the ashes of most garden plants : but, with the 
exception of potash and phosphoric acid, and sometimes also of 
lime, all the other ingredients will be furnished in abundance 
by practically all fertile soils. 

The various constituents found in plants are combined with 
each other in certain definite proportions, varying for different 
genera and species ; and the growth of the plant is measured and 
limited by the least abundant of these substances required for 
its sustenance. 

Reducing these principles to practical use, we may say that a 
plant will secure a full supply of carbon provided other necessary 
nutrients are available. The supplies of oxygen and hydrogen are 
chiefly dependent upon the water-supply. The available nitrogen 
may be regulated by the use of nitrate compounds or ammonium 
salts ; or the setting up in the soil of those conditions which 
favour the development of nitrogen-working micro-organisms. 

Having provided a full nitrogenous supply, the gardener may 
control the growth of his plants by giving or withholding 
phosphoric acid, potash, and lime. 

The water-supply to plants is a matter of supreme importance 
to the horticulturist, for not only does water comprise three- 
fourths, or more, of the actual weight of all garden plants when 
growing, but it is the vehicle in which all the mineral and 
nitrogenous constituents of plant-food are carried to their 
destination in the fabric of the plant. In the performance of 
this function, water is constantly passing through the plant, being 
absorbed by the roots, and transpired by the foliage. It is 
estimated that more than 3oolb. of water must pass through the 
plant for the deposition of a single pound of dry substance in 
the plant. Thus the question of the maintenance of the water- 
supply in greenhouses and conservatories becomes one which 
cannot be overlooked or nesrlected. 

The nitrogen supply to plants takes rank next to water in 
importance, for it is this element which may be most quickly 
exhausted in the garden soil, and which is the most expensive 
to replace by artificial means. 

Food = requirements of Plants. 

Science has taught the horticulturist what nutrients the soil 
must contain in order to secure thriving plants and the best 
crops ; the gardener, therefore, should put into the soil he 
cultivates those fertilising substances only which it requires to 
render it capable of fulfilling the functions required of it. 



ox MANURES. 



III7 



The gardener has to bear in mind that different plants require 
for their growth and development sufficient quantities of different, 
but quite definite, plant-foods, and that they take these chiefly 
from the soil. Moreover, if the plants are to thrive luxuriantly, 
these foods must not only be present in the soil in abundance, 
but also be in an assimilable form. 

Manuring is always heavier in gardening than in ordinary 
agriculture. On the farm, the cultivator has to do with a 
comparatively small number of different kinds of plants which 
can readily be controlled. In horticulture, on the other hand, 
there are far greater difficulties. The gardener has to do with 
a large number of plants belonging to very different genera 
and species, each having its own particular requirements as 
regards both food and treatment. Besides which, the finer kinds 
of flowers, fruits, vegetables, and foliage plants are, as a rule, 
more delicate and sensitive than the ordinary crops of the 
farm. 

To illustrate how plants of the garden vary in their chemical 
composition, and hence require different materials, and in 
different quantities for their growth and sustenance, a few 
examples are given in the following tables. The first table 
refers to four different kinds of vegetables, showing the marketable 
and the unmarketable portions of each. The second table 
gives the composition of six diflerent kinds of fruit, while the 
third shows a few selected constituents in the ashes of six 
different kinds of flowers. 



COMPOSITIOX OF VEGETABLES. IX loulb. OF EACH. 





Cucumbers. 


Carrots. 


Potatoes. 


Cabbage, 




Vines. 


Fruit. 


Roots. 


Leaves. 


Tubers. 


Haulms 


Heads. 


Roots. 


Dry Sub. ) 

stance | 

Xitrogen . . 


Per Cent. 
4.40 
0.16 


Per Cent. 
3-70 
0.20 


Per Cent. 
15.00 
0. 22 


Per Cent. 
17.80 
0.51 


Per Cent. 
25.00 

0.34 


Per Cent. 
23.00 
0.49 


Per Cent. 
10.00 
0.30 


Per Cent. 
II .00 
0.2.; 


Ash 


0.61 


0.76 


0.82 


2-39 


0.95 


1.97 


0.96 


1.56 



Selected Coxstituexts ix the Ash, Pes. Cext. 



Potash. 


39 




51 


7 


36,6 


12 


I 


61 


I 


21.8 


44 


8 


37-2 


Phosphoric '( 
Acid \ 


19 


I 


13 


I 


13-4 


4 


2 


16 


8 


8.1 


II 


5 


9.0 




6 


6 







1 1 .0 




I 




2 


32.5 


12 


5 




Soda 


9 


8 


4 


2 


20.7 


19- 


/ 





2 


2.2 


8 


3 


9.6 



iii8 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Thus we see that the dry substance of vegetables, that is to 
say, the organic portion, varies from 3.7 per cent, in the fruit 
of the Cucumber, to 25 per cent, in the tuber of the Potato. 
The nitrogen varies from 0.16 per cent, in the vine of the 
Cucumber, to 0.51 per cent, in the leaves of the Carrot. The 
ash or mineral portion varies from 0.61 per cent, in the vine of 
the Cucumber, to 2.39 per cent, in the leaves of the Carrot. 

Looking at the ash constituents in the different vegetables, it 
is seen that these ingredients vary in quantity even more than 
do the organic constituents. Thus, potash varies from 12 per 
cent, in the leaves of the Carrot, to 61 per cent, in the tubers 
of the Potato. Phosphoric acid varies from 4 per cent, in the 
leaves of the Carrot, to 19 per cent, in the vines of the Cucumber. 
Lime varies from 3 per cent, in the tubers of the Potato, to 33 
per cent, in the leaves of the Carrot. Soda ranges from 2 per 
cent, in the haulm of the Potato, to 20 per cent, in the roots of 
the Carrot. The data further shows that in most cases the refuse 
portion of vegetables — the stems and haulms — abstract from the 
soil a very much larger amount of plant food constituents, weight 
for w^eight, than do the marketable portions, teaching the gardener 
the advisability of returning to the soil all the unsaleable products. 

Well-made farmyard manure is very rich in available potash 
and phosphoric acid, which is doubtless one reason of its 
immense value and general application to all garden vegetables, 
containing, as the foregoing data shows that they do, so large a 
proportion of these ingredients. 

COMPOSITION OF FRUITS, IN" lOUlb. OF EACH. 





Apples. 


.2. 

Pi 

u 


Pears. 


CO 

<: 
Pi 

C5 


Apricots. 


Tomatoes. 






Per 
Cent. 


Per 
Cent. 


Per 
Cent. 


Per 
Cent. 


Per 
Cent. 


Per 
Cent. 


Dry Substance 




16.90 
0.06 


17-50 
0.23 


16.80 


17.00 


13.90 
0.23 

0-55 


6.20 


Nitrogen 




0.06 


0.17 

0.88 


0. 16 


Ash 




0.22 


0.39 


0.33 


0.80 



Selected Constituents in the Ash, Per Cent. 



Potash 




46.2 
10.9 


5^-9 
16.0 


54 
15 


/ 

2 


56.8 
15-9 


54-9 
13-9 


27 





Phosphoric Acic 




18 


6 


Lime 




4-9 


7.5 
2 . 2 


8 





12.7 


3-5 


12 


I 


Soda 




14.0 


8 




10.6 


10 


4 



















ox MANURES. 



1 1 19 



Comparing the food-requirements of the various kinds of fruits 
with those of the vegetables, we find that the range of con- 
stituents is not so great with the matured fruit as it is with the 
succulent and immature vegetable. Potash is especially abundant 
in all kinds of fruit, and there is a fairly uniform range in the 
quantity of phosphoric acid. Lime is extracted from the soil 
by Grapes and Tomatoes to a much greater extent than by the 
other fruits enumerated. Apples are large consumers of the 
ingredient soda, while Grapes require scarcely any soda at all. 

Investigations have shown that an average crop of Apples 
from a tree ten to fifteen years old remove from the soil, in 
round nunibers, i2lb. of nitrogen, 61b. of phosphoric acid, and 
321b. of potash ; and that the leaves of a tree large enough to 
produce the Apples would contain lolb. of nitrogen, 31b. of 
phosphoric acid, and lolb. of potash; or a total of 22lb. 
nitrogen, g\b. phosphoric acid, and 421b. potash. 

These analyses throw some light on the great sustaining power 
of Grapes as food for sick persons. In one ton weight of 
Grapes will be found 3631b. of dry substance, 2olb. of mineral 
matter (ash), S2^h. of nitrogen, lolb. of potash, 31b. of phos- 
phoric acid, and 2051b. of sugar. 



SELECTED CONSTITUENTS IN THE ASH OF DIFFERENT 
KINDS OF FLOAVERS, IN 1001b. OF EACH. 





CO 

<^ 

m 
Pi 
w 

> 


Clematis. 


Chrysanthe- 
mums. 


CO 

<! 

I-H 

H 


Cacti . 


Carnations. 




Per 


Per 


Per 


Per 


Per 


Per 




Cent. 


Cent. 


Cent. 


Cent. 


Cent. 


Cent. 




28.2 


30.6 


16.2 


30.1 


7.8 


29.2 


Phosphoric Acid 


42.7 


26.8 


19. 5 


33-1 


7-3 


12.6 




10.3 


16,2 


26.3 


12.3 


10.7 


22 . 6 




5-1 


6.9 


10.4 


3-7 


36.1 


2.9 



Here again is shown an enormous range in the chemical 
constituents of the different flowers of the garden, the ingredient 
potash varying from 7 per cent, to 30 per cent. ; phosphoric 
acid from 7 per cent, to 42 per cent. ; lime from 10 per cent, 
to 26 per cent. ; and soda from 2 per cent, to 36 per cent. 
The large quantity of soda in Cacti is most remarkable, and 
clearly points to the special requirements of this class of plants. 



I I 20 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



These analytical results, which are well worthy of careful 
study by every practical gardener, give an insight into the 
composition and the food-requirements of some of the many 
different plants with which he has to do. And a system ot 
manuring may be called well-devised or rational when it is 
based upon the results of a careful examination into the 
composition of the plants under cultivation, and on a due 
consideration of the natural capabilities of the plant for 
availing itself of the needed plant-food, both from the atmo- 
sphere and from the soil. 

The gardener, however, has to remember that the essential 
elements of plant-food are not required by different plants in 
the same invariable proportions at the various stages of growth, 
but are wanted at different periods of their life, in different 
absolute amounts, and in different proportions, according as to 
whether stems, leaves, flowers, fruit, or seed are required to 
be brought into prominence. 

The gardener is therefore taught that all his cultivated plants, 
whether in the open garden, the orchard, or the conservatory, 
contain the same elementary constituents, yet no two of 
them are in exactly the same proportions. Each plant has its 
especial wants at different stages of its development. Succu- 
lent and rapidly-growing vegetables require an abundant supply 
of nitrogenous food in an easily available form during their 
early periods of growth ; flowering plants and fruit-trees require 
phosphoric acid when blossoming and developing fruits and seeds; 
Grape-vines need a large amount of available potash during the 
formation and maturing of the Grapes, for the production of a 
rich and sugary juice ; whilst Potatoes require nitrogen and 
potash in combination for the production of starch in the tubers. 

It is found that the proportions of sugar and starch, and other 
constituents, can be considerably changed by the judicious use 
of special fertilisers. For example, in one of the experiments at 
Rothamsted, Hertfordshire, on root crops, the amount of sugar 
in the roots of Beet has been increased in one experiment from 
ySolb. to 16321b. per acre ; and m another experiment, from 
9861b. of sugar, the amount has been raised to 25121b. per 
acre — an increase of more than half-a-ton of sugar on each 
acre of land. 

In practical gardening, four only of the chemical constituents 
of plants are in the majority of cases supplied to the crop under 
the form of fertilisers, and these are nitrogen, phosphoric acid, 
potash, and sometimes lime. The first three especially are 
the most sparsely distributed in soils, are the most easily 
exhausted, and the most costly to replace. 

With every crop of vegetables, fruit, or flowers removed from 
the soil, the available stores of potash, phosphoric acid, and 
nitrogen are diminished ; therefore, if a gardener proportions his 



ON MANURES. 



1 121 



supply of manure to the waste caused by the growth and 
removal of his crops, and to the unavoidable loss by drainage, 
he will keep up the fertility of his soil to the degree in which 
he found it. And if he gives more judiciously he will gradually 
increase the fertility of the soil, and enable it to withstand 
drought and other adverse influences more effectively. 

Respecting the need of fertilisers for orchards, Professor 
Voorhees writes as follows : " It is argued by many, and some- 
times by those who should know better, that fruit-growing is 
quite similar to growing timber-trees ; that the question of soil 
exhaustion is not a matter of very great importance, provided 
the soil is well cultivated ; and that all soils contain sufficient 
quantities of the food-elements to insure the relatively small 
available supply required from year to year. It is admitted 
that on soils of good mechanical condition, well drained and 
cultivated, which are naturally adapted for fruit as well as other 
crops, because well supplied with the essential constituents — 
nitrogen, phosphoric acid, potash, and lime — the exhaustion 
arising from the continuous removal of crops will not become 
apparent for a long time, but it should be emphasised that it 
is only upon soils which possess these characteristics that the 
growth of fruit, even poor fruit, can be continued for any con- 
siderable period without the application of manures." 

Manures and their Application, 

Formerly, all substances which were incorporated into the 
soil for the purpose of enriching it, were designated manures. 
Since the introduction of commercial fertilisers in recent years, 
the meaning of the word has changed somewhat, for according 
to their origin, or the kind of plant-food material they supply, 
manures are spoken of as : — 

(1) Animal Manures. — These are the excrements of domestic 
animals. The term "excrements" has been substituted for the 
ancient word dung, the meaning of which was somewhat 
ambiguous. Excrements are the solid and liquid voidings of 
animals, unmixed with litter. These are characterised by the 
large quantity of nitrogen they contain, and the ease with which 
they decompose and yield their fertilising matter in available 
forms. To this class of manures would belong guano, desiccated 
blood, bones, bone-meal, fish, and bone superphosphate. 

(2) Vegetable Manures comprise ordinary farmyard and 
stable manure, having a variable proportion of plant-food 
constituents, seaweeds, vegetable refuse, oil-cakes, &c., which 
undergo decomposition more or less slowly. 

(3) Mineral Manures, which are extracted from the mineral 
rocks of the soil, and yield the ash constituents to plants, which 
may include sulphate ammonia, obtained from coal-tar, potash, 

4 c 



1122 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



soda, magnesia, lime, iron, silica, &c.. combined with sulphates, 
phosphates, and nitrates. 

Then, again, manures are spoken of as " general manures " 
when they contain all the necessary elements for plant-growth ; 
or "special manures," when they only supply one or several of 
these elements. 

These elements, again, are said to be "dormant," "latent," or 
"active," according as they are insoluble or soluble in plant- 
juices, which exude from the rootlets, or in soil-water, and are 
thus made available for plant-food, or are locked up in an inert 
form in the soil. In fact, a very large part of the elements of 
plant-food contained in soils is present in such a condition that 
plants are unable to make use of it. For example, it is very 
usual to find about o"i 5 per cent, of phosphoric acid in an 
ordinary garden soil. Such a soil gin. deep, in its dry state, 
may be said to weigh from 1200 to 1500 tons per acre. A 
soil containing o'i5 per cent, of phosphoric acid would 
accordingly contain somewhere about two tons of phosphoric 
acid to the acre, disregarding the subsoil altogether. Such a 
soil contains as much phosphoric acid per acre as would be 
contained in about seventeen tons of superphosphate, or in nearly 
ten tons of bone-meal; and yet the addition of a few hundred 
pounds of phosphatic manure may make the difference between 
a full crop and a bad one. Similar statements would apply to 
other constituents of the soil. This leads the gardener to 
recognise the important fact that it is not the total proportion 
of phosphoric acid, or potash, or of nitrogen, that rules a soil's 
fertility for horticultural purposes, but the amount of each of 
them that is present in an immediately available condition. 

Manures for the garden, for practical purposes, may be 
considered as nitrogenous, phosphatic, potassic, or calcareous 
fertilisers, according as nitrogen, potash, phosphoric acid, or 
lime is the predominating ingredient. 

Farmyard and Stable Manure. 

This substance differs from all artificial manures, and in 
several important particulars. Its value depends, first, on the 
materials of which it is formed ; secondly, on the condition of 
its formation ; and, thirdly, on the way it has been kept and 
treated until it is applied to the soil. 

The materials of farm.yard or stable manure are litter and the 
excreta of animals. That produced from young growing stock, 
or from milch cows, is not so good as that produced from old, 
or fattening animals. Then, again, that which is produced from 
underfed animals is of a very inferior description. Further, the 
composition of the excreta of domestic animals of various kinds 
is different. The excrements of horses which are fed with a more 
nitrogenised food than most other animals of the farm, are of a 



ON MANURES. 



II23 



very fertilising and valuable character. The excrements of farm 
animals ma}^ be placed in the following order of manurial value : 
Horse-dung and sheep-dung are about equal ; then dung from 
oxen and cow-dung ; and, last, pig-dung. The dung of horses 
and sheep yield hotter and more rapidly fermenting material 
than does the dung of oxen, cows, or pigs. 

Farmyard or stable manure is said to be a perfect fertiliser, 
because it contains all the elements necessary for supporting a 
healthy and vigorous growth of plants. It is a universal 
manure, because it universally produces these effects upon a 
great variety of soils, and upon most descriptions of garden 
products. 

Another reason why it is so valuable is that it produces 
mechanical effects in the soil to which it is applied, from its 
mass of organic matter, which no artificial manure can accom- 
plish. The important mechanical effects, especially of long dung 
on clay soils, are not to be underrated. Then, again, the vast 
amount of heat developed during the decomposition of dung is 
of immense value to the gardener for forcing purposes, and this 
cannot be attained by other chemical agents. 

Further, farmyard and stable manures furnish available humus 
and a mulch if they are spread upon the surface of the soil ; 
they also tend to increase the water-holding power of the soil, 
and improves its texture and physical condition. It may here 
be stated that, so far as the humus matter of dung is beneficial 
to vegetation, it is only by its oxidation and nitrification, and a 
consequent supply of carbonic acid within the soil — a source of 
immense importance in the early stages of the life of a plant, 
and before it has developed and exposed a sufficient amount of 
green-leaf surface to the atmosphere to render it independent of 
soil supplies of carbonic acid. 

In many cases it is believed that these benefits are a full 
equivalent for the less soluble characters of the fertilising 
constituents of farmyard or stable manure, as compared with 
commercial fertilisers. When the soil has a reasonable -amount 
of available plant-food within it, the foregoing statement may be 
correct ; but as the ultimate welfare of garden plants depends 
so much on a healthy and vigorous start, with an abundant 
root development, it becomes a question whether the more 
quickly-acting commercial manures may not be more valuable 
than the slowly-acting animal manures, whenever the soil is 
deficient in readily available plant-food. Then, again, farmyard 
manure, with its slow, nitrifying properties, may furnish sufficient 
nitrogenous food for all late crops in the garden, or those having 
a long period of growth ; but for early crops or very rapidly- 
growing plants, some easily soluble nitrogenous manure, such as 
guano, nitrate of soda, sulphate of ammonia, &c., will be found 
of great advantage. A ton of farmyard or stable manure, when 

4 c 2 



I I 24 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



applied to the soil, will add about 6051b. of organic matter, 
which will yield from 91b. to 151b. of nitrogen. But the large 
amount of carbon in combination with the nitrogen causes it to 
nitrify with comparative slowness, and the nitrifying process is 
essential before dung becomes available for plants. The ton of 
dung will also add 671b. of ash or mineral constituents, 
supplying from 41b. to lolb. of phosphoric acid, and from 51b. to 
131b. of potash. 

Stable V. Moss= litter Manure. 

Regarding the relative values of ordinary stable or straw 
manure and moss-litter manure, it may be stated that farmyard 
manure differs from moss-litter manure in several important 
particulars. The quantity of straw employed as litter must 
necessarily affect the general composition of fresh dung, and 
more especially the amount of moisture which it contains. The 
greater the amount of liquid manure the litter can be made to 
absorb, the larger will be the heat developed. In fresh dung 
the proportion of organic and mineral substances is small ; this 
circumstance fully explains the slow action of stable manure 
when compared with the effect which well-made moss-litter 
manure — containing as it does more of both the solid and the 
liquid excrements of the animals — is capable of producing;. 

The proportion of insoluble n'latters, more especially of 
insoluble organic matters, in fresh dung, on the other hand, is 
very large, and considerably exceeds those of moss-litter manure. 
The total amount of nitrogen contained in the soluble portion 
of fresh dung likewise is inconsiderable. Most of the nitrogen, 
which is gradually liberated as the fermentation of the dung 
progresses, is contained in the portion of the manure which is 
insoluble in water. In other words, comparatively speaking little 
nitrogen exists in fresh dung in a state in which it can be 
assimilated by growing plants ; while in moss-litter manure, owing 
to the large amount of carbonate of lime present (an ingredient of 
the peat moss), the nitrogen of the animal excrements becomes 
rapidly converted into nitrate of lime, and is assimilated by plants 
at once. For this reason the staying powers of moss-litter manure 
is less than straw-litter manure, weight for weight ; also the 
nitrogen which is not at once taken up by the growing plants 
is wasted by drainage. Therefore it is, that although moss-litter 
manure may originally contain more nitrogen than the straw- 
litter manure, it does not last so long, nor produce the crop 
effects which one would be led to expect. 

Again, moss-litter manure is very poor in alkaline salts, especially 
of potash, since these substances have been in great part washed 
out by the water covering the peat deposits. The principal 
constituent of the soluble ash of fresh dung, on the other hand, 
so far as quantity is concerned, is potash. One hundred parts 



ON MANURES. 



II25 



of soluble ash contain no less than thirty-seven parts of real potash, 
or a quantity which is equal to fifty-four parts of pure carbonate 
of potash. Straw-litter manure also contains a large amount of 
soluble silica, both in the soluble and in the insoluble ash. This 
is practically lacking in moss-litter manure. In the soluble ash this 
silica is united principally with potash. Fresh farmyard or stable 
manure, made with straw as litter, contains much soluble silicate 
of potash, which is especially valuable in the growth of plants. 

Chemical Composition of Animal Manures. 

The following Table shows the comparative value of ordinary 
farmyard manure composed of animal excrements and litter ; and 
the excreta of various domestic animals, of both the solid and 
the liquid dejections. The constituents are each given in one 
ton of each description of manure. 



SELECTED CONSTITUENTS IN ONE TON OF ANIAIAL DUNG, 
AND OF FARMYARD MANURE IN A FRESH CONDITION. 





Nitrogen. 


Potash. 


Lime. 


Phosphoric 
Acid. 




lb. 


lb. 


lb. 


lb. 




10 


12 


39 


6 


Horse Droppings .... 


17 


13 


10 


9 




9 


8 


10 


3 


Pig Droppings 


iC 


4 


35 


4 


Sheep Droppings .... 


20 


14 


33 


13 


Hen Droppings 


43 


19 


58 


39 


SELECTED CONSTITUENTS IN ONE TON OF ANIMAL URINE 

IN A FRESH CONDITION. 




Nitrogen. 


Potash. 


Lime. 


Phosphoric 
Acid. 




lb. 


lb. 


lb. 


lb. 




42 
1 1 


33 
31 
4 


17 
3 










8 


r 


29 




38 


44 


13 


I 



II26 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



The Excrements of Horses are richer in nitrogen than 
those of the cow or pig, but less rich than the dung of sheep ; 
the}' have a somewhat denser texture, and cohere but loosely. 
For this reason, the droppings are readih' distributed through 
the soil, and pass quickl}" into decay. In consequence of this 
faculty of decomposition, the nutrient elements they contain 
become rapidly fit for absorption and assimilation by plants ; this 
effect is shown by early plant development. The ^olid 
excrements of horses are less lasting in the soil than those whose 
action is more tardy. 

The Excrements of Coavs contain the smallest quantity of 
nitrogen of the animals enumerated, but a fair proportion of 
potash. They pass but slowly into putrefaction, and become 
less heated when lying in heaps ; heating in manure is ex- 
clusively a result of decomposition. In addition to this the 
substance of these excrements does not acquire a crumbly 
texture, but becomes sticky and compact, by which its distribu- 
tion in the soil, as well as its decay, is rendered more difficult. 
The slow but persistent action of this manure renders it 
extremely useful for making up garden beds, when a lasting 
effect is desired; particularly is this the case in Vine-borders and 
Carnation-beds. Sometimes for Vine-borders one-half each of 
horse-manure and cow-manure is to be recommended, because 
a too-forcing manure in certain soils induces the production of 
stems and leaves, thus using up the small supply of phosphoric 
acid and of potash, to the great detriment of fruit-buds, blossoms, 
and fruit. As a consequence, most of the blossoms are barren 
and fall off, whilst only a few berries develop, and they but 
meagrely. 

The Excrements of Sheep contain more nitrogen and more of 
the mineral ingredients — potash and phosphoric acid — than those 
of cows or horses ; but rather less lime than the excrements of 
pigs. As sheep droppings contain a comparatively small proportion 
of water, they are tolerably easy of decomposition, although 
possessing a closer and more compact texture than horse 
droppings. When mixed with their proportion of urine, sheep 
droppings form a very powerful manure. 

For pot-plants, horse and sheep droppings combined, soaked 
in water, hanging a bagful of fresh soot in the tank or tub, makes" 
a capital liquid manure. 

The Excrements of Pigs vary exceedingly in their composition, 
because the feeding of these animals is far more varied than that 
of horses, cows, or sheep. As it gives out but little heat in its 
decomposition it is called a " cold " manure. Large quantities 
of undecomposed food are frequently found in the excrements 
of pigs ; it therefore particularly favours the development of 
injurious animals in the soil, especially the black millepedes. It 



ox MANURES. ' II27 

is accordingly better employed in the cultivation of the coarser 
descriptions of garden products — such as the Cabbage tribe and 
Turnips — than of the more delicate vegetables or flowers, 
especially as it favours luxuriance rather than maturation of plants. 

Urine a Forcing Manure. 

The immense difference between the manurial value of the 
solid and liquid excrements of animals has been shown in some 
recent experiments. The analysis of farmyard and stable manure, 
together with the plant investigations, showed that the effect of 
these manurial substances was plainly connected with the pro- 
portion of soluble and active nitrogenous matters which they 
contained. 

It will be observed in the foregoing Table of the analysis of 
animal manures that the comparatively large proportions of 
nitrogen in the urine of animals, ranging from 81b. per ton in that 
of the pig, to 381b. per ton in that of the sheep, and to 421b. per 
ton in that of the horse, corroborates the common view of 
gardeners that urine is a forcing manure. Fresh urine is, in fact, 
a very valuable nitrogenous fertiliser, but it must be used with 
discretion for garden purposes, otherwise rank and unsightly 
plants, with coarse foliage, will be produced instead of flowers 
and fruit. Each pound of nitrogen in undiluted urine may be 
rated at as high a price as has to be paid for the pound of 
nitrogen in" guano, nitrate of soda, or sulphate of ammonia. 
The urine of horses, cows, and sheep contains also an exceedingly 
large proportion of potash, while that of the pig is extremely rich 
in phosphoric acid. 

The nitrogen in mere animal dung is of a very inferior quality 
to that in urine, since most of it is insoluble and in a condition 
unassimilable by plants until it has been subjected to the process 
of nitrification. The nitrogen of the solid excreta is contained 
chiefly in the undigested, not to say indigestible, portion of food 
which has been expelled by the animal as useless for his 
purposes, w^hile the nitrogen in urine is all in solution and in a 
condition fit to be immediately taken up by plants. And as 
there is no excess of organic matter in urine, there is less loss 
of nitrogen from denitrification. 

Experiments with Farmyard Manure. 

In some experiments of Sir John Lawes, at Rothamsted, Hert- 
fordshire, with Potatoes grown year after year on the same land, 
it was shown that in the first year of the application of 14 tons 
of farmyard manure per acre, an increase of 8 cwt. of Potatoes 
only was obtained over the plot which received no manure at 
all ; while in the next four years of the application of the same 
quantity of farmyard manure, the increase of Potatoes averaged 
2 tons 17 cwt. per acre over the unmanured plot, pointing 



II28 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



clearly to the slow action of the dung, and showing that it rarely 
produces much effect in the first year of its application. 

Further, it was found that when 2oolb. of nitrogen was applied 
to the Potato crop in the form of farmyard manure, which also 
contributed a very large amount of mineral constituents, in no 
case was the increased yield of the crop so great as was obtained 
by an artificial mixture of minerals and nitrogenous manure sup- 
plying only 861b. of nitrogen, but in a more readily available 
condition. Nor was the increased assimilation of any one of the 
individual constituents so great under the influence of farmyard 
manure as when these were applied in the rapidly available 
condition, as in the artificial mixtures. 

In the case of several other crops it has also been found that 
only a small proportion of the nitrogen of farmyard manure was 
taken up in the first year of the application. 

In ordinary garden practice farmyard and stable manure are 
not only largely relied upon for the growth of most crops, but 
are applied in considerable quantities. It is probable, therefore, 
that independently of the liberal supply of all necessary con- 
stituents of plant-food, the beneficial effects of this manure are in 
a considerable degree due to its influence on the mechanical 
condition of the soil, rendering it more porous and easily 
permeable to the surface-roots, upon the development of which 
the success of so many garden plants greatly depends, Then, 
again, something may be due to an increased temperature of 
the surface-soil, engendered by the decomposition of so large an 
amount of organic matter within it ; whilst the carbonic acid 
evolved in the decomposition will, with the aid of moisture, serve 
to render the mineral resources of the soil more soluble. 

There are several practical considerations which count in favour 
of using well-rotted manures, especially when not used in con- 
junction with an artificial fertiliser. It is especially worthy of 
observation that, whilst the insoluble organic matter of dung 
is much reduced in quantity during the fermentation, the 
insoluble organic matter which remains is richer in nitrogen 
than an equal quantity of the same substance from fresh dung. 
Therefore, weight for weight, well-rotted farmyard manure is- 
richer in soluble fertilising constituents than fresh dung, and 
contains especially more readily available nitrogen, and hence 
produces a more immediate and powerful effect on vegetation. 
Many practical gardeners have urged that fresh manure, even 
if it does not actually injure the crop to which it is applied, may 
still tend to the production of stems and leaves rather than of 
seeds and fruits. The rankness, however, of fresh dung and 
urine could be controlled and utilised by applying the manure 
in small quantities, and supplementing it with artificial fertilisers 
of kinds appropriate to the crops or individual plants that are 
to be grown. 



ON MANURES. 



1 129 



Poultry Manure for the Garden. 

Fresh poultry manure from hens and pigeons is decidedly 
richer in plant-food than the dung of other annuals, because it 
contains both the solid and liquid excrements combined, and is 
somewhat analogous to guano in character, though far less ' 
valuable than guano weight for weight. To begin with, the food 
of hens, of pigeons, and even of turkeys, except in grasshopper 
season, is of vegetable rather than of animal origin, while the 
sea-fowl that produced the guano lived upon fish, and conse- 
quently voided a more highly - nitrogenised excrement ; and, 
moreover, the guano has become exceedingly concentrated by 
the peculiar processes of slow decay to which it has long been 
subjected. 

The Table giving the analysis of animal manures shows that 
poultry manure is exceedingly rich in all the constituents or 
plant - food, especially in nitrogen, lime, and phosphoric acid. 
Like the excrements of other animals, its value as a fertiliser 
depends largely upon the food consumed. If the fowls eat a 
good many worms, insects, and other animal food, their drop- 
pings will be much more valuable than if they were fed on grain 
and other vegetable products exclusively. 

Dr. G. G. Groff has recently made some investigations upon 
the fertilising value of fowl manure, and he finds a considerable 
increase in value when the fowls are well fed and their droppings 
properly cared for. Dr. Groff advises feeding the fowls with all 
the fresh bone they will eat, giving it in a pulverised condition. 
By this practice their droppings are made much richer, while the 
number of eggs is greatly increased. The bone has been found 
to be of nearly as much value for manurial purposes as before 
being used as food by the fowls. 

The following data gives the analysis of fowl manure, the 
animals being differently fed, in quantities of loolb. of each : 



HEN MANURE. SELECTED CONSTITUENTS IN AIR-DRIED 
DUNG. PERCENTAGE QUANTITIES. 



Chief Diet. 


Water. 

. , 


Nitrogen. 


Phosphoric 
Acid. 


Potash. 




Per Cent. 


Per Cent. 


Per Cent. 


Per Cent. 




7.5 


3-55 


I . 1 1 


1.30 




6.5 


1.03 


I .60 


1.85 




7-1 


1-53 


I .92 


I .01 



II30 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



These results are a Strong argument for feeding fowls with 
ground fresh bones ; and the data are further instructive as showing 
that well-cared for manure from well-fed fowls may be of great 
practical value to the gardener, being especially adapted for crops 
that have to be forced into rapid growth early in the season. 
When making up a hot-bed, it is a good plan to mix three or four 
bushels of poultry manure with each load of stable manure. If 
the heap is moist enough the former will greatly favour the 
generation of heat and facilitate fermentation and nitrification of 
the organic nitrogen. 

For many horticultural purposes also it may be well to turn 
over the heap of poultry manure, or of compost made from the 
same, many times and often, in order to provide delicate food 
for some cherished plant. 

Manurial Drainings. 

The application of stable and house drainings to compost heaps 
is highly to be recommended for garden purposes, since by this 
means the drainings can be brought into a manageable form 
without sustaining a loss of their fertilising properties. If in 
collecting these heaps of compost all the refuse matters found in 
a garden are made use of, whatever their appellation — sweepings, 
lawn-grass, hedge and tree clippings, refuse vegetables, path 
trimmings, leaves, coal-dust, ashes of all sorts, sawdust, &c. — and 
the mass is kept moist by frequently pouring on urinous liquids 
and house drainings, very considerable quantities of the latter may 
be brought into a dry form, inasmuch as the watery portions of the 
drainings by degrees evaporate, and the ammoniacal combinations 
generated by its nitrification are firmly held and absorbed, partly 
by the acids which are simultaneously formed in the humus matter 
and partly by the soil. Moisture, we know, plays an important 
part, not only in the growth and development of plants, but also 
in changing the otherwise insoluble nitrogenous compounds into 
nitrates. By occasionally turning over the compost heap the 
process of decay is very essentially accelerated. Should a 
pungent odour of ammonia be remarked, some soil or lime, or a 
coating of ashes, should be added to the heap. 

Explanation of Nitrification. 

As the term nitrification frequently and necessarily occurs in 
this chapter, it may be well, on account of the importance of the 
subject, to give a brief explanation of its meaning and significance 
in the garden. 

Nitrogen in the form of nitrates is generally regarded as the 
best kind of nitrogenous food for plants of all descriptions. 
Nitrates are compounds of nitric acid with mineral bases, as 
potassium nitrate, sodium nitrate, calcium nitrate, and ammonium 
nitrate. Plants obtain their nitric acid by absorbing the nitrates 



ON MANURES. 



II31 



that are already present in the soil — those that are carried down to 
the soil from the atmosphere in rain, dew, hoar-frost, and snow ; 
those that are applied artificially in fertilisers; and those that are 
formed in the soil from the nitrogen of other substances. 

As is well known, all the nitrogen that is applied to the soil 
for fertilising purposes, especially in farmyard and stable manures, 
compost heaps, in green - manuring, and by animal manures, is 
not in the form of nitrates. It may be either in the form of 
ammonia or of more complex organic compounds. It is very 
probable, however, that before it is taken up by the growing 
plant the organic nitrogen is changed, first into the form of 
ammonia, and then into nitric acid. 

These changes all take place through the agency of micro- 
organisms, or ferments, in the soil, and that particular process in 
which the nitrogen of the ammonia is changed into nitric acid 
is called nitrification. This change is accomplished by the joint 
action of two separate organisms, one of which changes the 
nitrogen of ammonia into nitrous acid, while the other changes 
the nitrous acid into nitric acid, the latter being the form in 
which it is assimilated by plants. 

The conditions that are required for the development of nitri- 
fying organisms are the presence in the soil of certain food- 
constituents — heat, moisture, oxygen, and some mineral base — to 
neutralise the nitric acid as it is formed. It is also necessary that 
the soil be slightly alkaline. The nitrifying organisms require 
certain substances as food, among which phosphoric acid and 
lime are most important. It has been found that without phos- 
phoric acid there can be no nitrification. This probably is one 
of the reasons why phosphatic manures show such beneficial results 
when applied to certain soils, as well as furnishing direct plant- 
food. 

The three conditions which exert a marked influence on 
nitrification, and which in horticultural practice are more or less 
intimately associated, are heat, air, and moisture. The process 
is most rapid during warm weather, in presence of sufficient air 
and moisture. Hence it is more active in summ.er than in 
winter, and more rapid in a conservatory or covered frame than 
in the open garden. 

Nitrification teaches the gardener, also, the reason why 
thorough tillage of the soil is so essential, and why charcoal, 
added to potting material and a sufficiency of drainage crocks, 
in pot-culture, is so important and beneficial. The loosening 
and pulverising of the soil allows the admission of necessary 
oxygen and regulates the supply of moisture. If the soil is 
allowed to become very dry, or, on the other hand, is saturated 
with water to the exclusion of air, nitrification is retarded, and 
may be permanently stopped. In this connection it is interesting 
to note that in certain plant-cultures, especially that of the 



II32 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Chrysanthemum, if the soil is allowed to get thoroughly dry, the 
plants never afterwards seem to regain their former healthy 
vigour, nor will they produce such fine blossoms as if a steady 
and continuous growth is maintained. 

The final product of nitrification is nitric acid ; but the nitrifying 
organisms cannot develop in the presence of a free acid, hence 
the benefit of liming sour soils, such as water-meadows, peaty 
soils, or very rich old garden soils. The lime corrects the 
sourness of the soil by neutralising the free acid, and then, if the 
other conditions of heat, oxygen, moisture, and food are favour- 
able, nitrification may proceed. There must be an excess oi 
lime applied over and above the amount necessary to correct 
the acidity of the soil in order to neutralise the nitric acid as it 
is formed. 

Whenever the soil is in a condition unfavourable to nitrification, 
there is danger that not only may nitrates not be formed, but 
that there will be a loss of nitrogen from those nitrates which 
are present. This loss is due to a process known as denitrifi- 
cation — a process which is also dependent on micro-organisms. 
The denitrification organisms flourish under one condition, which 
IS directly opposed to the corresponding condition favouring 
nitrification — namely, the absence of oxygen. Under that con- 
dition the nitrates may be reduced or changed back to nitrites, 
and the nitrites are often further reduced till they lose their 
nitrogen altogether by having it pass off into the air as gaseous 
nitrogen. 

Denitrification may take place, therefore, in \vater-logged soils, 
in badly-drained pot-cultures, and in the inner parts of manure 
or compost heaps, when air is measurably excluded. An organic 
manure, therefore, which is effective for plant growth when 
applied in small quantity may thus become injurious when made 
use of in excess. The supply of atmospheric oxygen to a soil is 
effectually prevented if the soil is kept in a saturated condition 
with stagnant water. This condition alone is sufficient to set up 
an energetic denitrification, by which process the growing plants 
must considerably suffer. 

A recently-published experiment by Professor Breal furnishes 
a further excellent example of the active denitrification which 
takes place in a soil kept saturated with water. He placed some 
garden soil in a percolator, and consolidated it by pressure ; the 
column was about i5in. high. Water more than sufficient for 
saturation was then poured upon the soil ; when the w^ater had 
run through it was poured back again over the soil, and this 
treatment was continued for some time. The soil at the 
commencement of the experiment w^as in an active state of nitri- 
fication, and the drainage-water was at first rich in nitrates ; but at 
the end of three weeks the nitrates had entirely disappeared from 
the drainage-water, though no water had been removed from the soil. 



ON MANURES. 



II33 



The advantages to the horticulturist of the uses of nitrates 
may thus be briefly summarised : — (i) Nitrate of soda and nitrate 
of hme serves directly as food for plants ; not having to undergo 
any change in the soil, they act more rapidly than any nitrogenous 
manure of organic origin, such as farmyard or stable dung, guano, 
blood, fish, rape cake, &:c., or even sulphate of ammonia and soot, 
as the action of all these materials is dependent on their undergoing 
nitrification. (2) The rapidity with which the nitrate is absorbed 
by plants quickly puts them into a state which, by the vigour of 
their development, they can the better resist disease, insect attack, 
parasitic growths, and drought. (3) In seasons following a severe 
winter, or for early productions of vegetables, nitrate supplied in 
the spring repairs the lateness caused by climatic disadvantages. 
(4) Young plants take up nitrates so rapidly, and send their roots 
into the soil so quickly, that the nitrates cannot escape them, even 
if washed down by heavy rains, always provided other conditions 
are favourable. 

Artificial Manures : their Chemical Composition and 
Use in the Garden. 

Having dealt with the nature, the composition, and the uses 
in the garden of farmyard and stable manures, and also of the 
manure from various descriptions of domestic animals, we have 
next to consider the place occupied in a proper system of horti- 
culture by artificial fertilisers. 

It has been found from numerous investigations that horti- 
culturists use nearly ylb. of nitrogen in the form of manure to 
get back ilb. of nitrogen in the crop produced. This is owing 
to the low percentage of plant-food in the bulky farmyard or 
stable manure, which is generally used for manurial purposes, and 
to the slowness of its action. 

It will be well, therefore, to impress upon every gardener the 
fact that to manure horticultural soils and crops efficiently means, 
to-day, something more than to incorporate into the earth an 
exceptionally liberal amount of such a varying substance as farm- 
yard or stable manure, vegetable composts, and the like, which 
may take many years to yield all the effects of which they may 
be capable. A moderate use of what are term^ed "natural"' 
manures, supplemented by a suitable addition of concentrated 
artificial fertilisers, for the purpose of rendering the former more 
rapidly available, in order to force particular garden products " out 
of season " and to raise special plants vigorously and well, 
should commend itself to the horticulturist on account of the 
directness with which he can thus reach the object in view. 
Both good economy and the preference for a healthy and 
vigorous condition of cultivated plants advise a change from an 
indifferent system of manuring to one of a more rational 
character. 



1134 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



An important lesson, therefore, to be learned by the gardener 
at the present time is how to use artificial fertilisers to the best 
possible advantage in conjunction with dung ; or, rather, how to 
supplement and eke out the dung of animals, by means of 
artificial fertilisers, in such wise that the utmost success shall be 
got both from the dung and from the chemical ingredients. 

There are special cases, necessarily, where it may be best on 
the whole to use farmyard manure alone, or, on the other hand, 
to use artificial fertilisers by themselves. Furthermore, artificials 
may be chosen as to yield their full effect immediately, which to 
the market-gardener is a matter of special importance, whereas 
dung takes many years to give up all its fertilising properties. 
Hence it stands to reason that, if a manure is sluggish in its 
action, it means that the profit by its use is delayed, the capital 
it represents yielding no interest until it is realised. For example, 
coarse bones have been sometimes preferred to fine bone-meal 
merely for the reason that they distribute their effects over a 
greater number of years. 

A well-chosen artificial fertiliser should act promptly and 
decisively on the crop or on the particular plant to which it is 
applied, but it does not follow that its effect is limited to that 
crop or plant ; some constituents, such as potash, may remain 
in the soil for a long time if not taken up by the growing 
plant. 

Artificial manures, properly and abundantly used, do not 
stimulate plant-life in the sense in which the word is commonly 
used. Nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid, in whatever form 
they may be employed, are true plant-foods, and furnish actual 
nourishment to growing crops. 

It is well known that plants frequently suffer from lack of a 
full supply of food at a critical period of their growth. When 
they have used the easily available food stored in the seed, but 
have not yet had time to produce roots sufficiently numerous to 
secure a full supply of nourishment from that which is less 
available in the soil, the addition of an assimilable concentrated 
fertiliser is of the greatest value. Most soils, even the richest, 
are so imperfectly adapted for the maximum welfare of plants 
that, unless a small amount of delicate plant-food be supplied, 
growth languishes until the plant has extended and multiplied 
its roots sufficiently to secure a supply of nourishment from 
the inherent and less available constituents stored up in the 
soil. 

If, then, some easily assimilable food is at hand to make 
good the soil's deficiencies, and to sustain the plant and keep 
it in complete vigour during the whole period of its life, it is 
reasonable to suppose that a larger crop will be secured than 
would have been obtained if no additional nutriment had been 
provided. 



ON MANURES. 



II35 



It is believed that the beneficial effects of artificial fertilisers 
are due as much to the timely supply of plant-food as to the 
actual amount of assimilable ingredients they may contain. 
Food given at the right time, and in judicious quantities, 
enables the plant to extend its roots, whereby it is able to secure 
more nourishment from the soil, over and above that furnished 
by the manure, than it could have secured without such help. 
If this is so, it shows that the use of commercial fertilisers in 
small but frequent quantities may not only largely increase the 
total yield of crops, but may also produce a greater abundance 
of flowers and of fruit. It must be remembered, however, that 
one and the same description of manure will not be equally 
efficient on all classes of soils. 

Reference has been made to complete fertilisers, that is, 
those manures which contain, as it has been aptly described, the 
" golden tripod of plant-life " — namely, nitrogen, phosphoric acid, 
and potash, in the proportions found in the plants to be grown. 
But plants vary widely in their amounts and proportion of 
nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash. The variations are due 
to many causes, such as an abundance or lack of moisture, 
sunshine, and inherited power of the plants. Then, too, the 
soil varies more widely in the percentage of plant-food and its 
availability than the plants do. 

In general terms it may be stated that, in the garden, when 
it is desired to increase the leaves and stalks — the vegetative 
system — of plants where luxuriance and succulency are required, 
as in the cultivation of the various Cabbage and Broccoli tribe. 
Celery, Asparagus, Lettuce, Spinach, Rhubarb, and foliage plants, 
this can be accomplished by supplying them with plenty of 
nitrogen ; while, on the other hand, the production of flowers, 
seeds, fruits, tubers, and roots, where maturation rather than 
luxuriance is the end in view, is best secured by using moderate 
quantities of nitrogen and liberal amounts of available phosphoric 
acid and potash, and sometimes of lime also. 

Artificial manures may be divided into {a) phosphatic manures, 
including the nitrogenous guanos ; (b) nitrogenous manures 
proper ; {c) potassic manures, some of which also contain 
nitrogen ; {d) other mineral manures, like gypsum, lime, &:c. ; {e) 
special mixed manures. 

Phosphatic Manures. — Phosphate of lime is a chemical 
substance, which has acquired great commercial importance in 
recent years, and has been found to be a manure of considerable 
value in the garden, in the orchard, and in the conservatory. 
There are several varieties of this manure, which includes such 
fertilisers as raw bones, bone-meal, bone-ash, superphosphate of lime, 
phosphatic rocks, and basic slag, as well as the phosphatic guanos. 

Raw bones are true phosphatic manures, although they contain 
a small percentage of nitrogen. They decompose slowly in the 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



soil, and particularly so in heavy and wet clays. Pulverised 
bones form an excellent permanent manure for Vine-borders ; 
they are especially adapted for light sandy or loamy soils, 
also in other cultures where a slow action is required. 

Bones, bone-meal, and lightly-boiled bone-dust should contain 
from 40 per cent, to 50 per cent, of phosphates, about 30 per 
cent, of organic matter, and from 3 per cent, to 4 per cent, of 
nitrogen, equal to about 4 per cent, or 5 per cent, of ammonia.- 
As a general rule, the more finely bones are crushed, or ground, 
the better they are adapted for manurial purposes, and the quicker 
they act. They are, however, used in various degrees of fineness 
— as I in. bones, ^in. bones, bone-meal, and steamed bone-flour. 
The following table shows the composition of raw bones, bone- 
meal, and boiled bones, each being of good quality : 



PERCEXTAGE COMPOSITIOX OF BOXE MAXURES. 





Boxes. 


Bone 
Meal. 


Boiled 
Bones. 


Moisture 


9.90 


8.38 


10,61 


Organic Matter ( i ) 


33.70 
49.12 


31.12 


21.55 
60. 19 


Phosphate of Lime 


49.43 


Alkahne Salts and Magnesia 


6.18 


9-56 
1.51 


5.81 
T.84 


Silica 


1 . 10 


Total 


100.00 


100.00 


TOO. 00 


(i) Containing Nitrogen 




4.06 


1.76 



The figures show that there is but little difference in the 
manurial value of bones and bone-meal, only the meal gives up 
its fertilising properties more quickly. Bones that have been highly 
steamed or boiled to obtain gelatine for glue-making have lost 
much of their organic matter and nitrogen. This is clearly 
shown in the third column of the table, there being a loss of 
ID per cent, of the former and about 2 per cent, loss of the 
latter substance. Steamed bone-meal, however, forms a good 
phosphatic manure, containing, as it does, 60 per cent, of 
phosphates. 

These manures are very helpful to lawns and paddocks, greatly 
improving the character of the grasses ; also for Turnips, Beet, 
Radishes, Celery, Onions, Potatoes, Peas, fruit-trees, and flowers 
generally. Bone-manures are best used in conjunction with 



ON MANURES. 



II37 



potash salts or kainit, and will be found beneficial in old kitchen- 
gardens rich in organic matter. Experiments have proved that 
mixtures of bone-meal and wood-ashes serve an excellent purpose 
when used as a substitute for farmyard manure. 

Basic Slag. — Basic slag, or "Thomas's phosphate," of which 
the following data show the chief constituents, is a manure 
which has come largely into use in the last few years. The 
figures show that it contains a large proportion of lime (which is 
in a caustic condition), phosphoric acid, and iron oxides. It is 
of various manurial qualities, ranging from about 12 per cent, of 
phosphoric acid (equal to 26 per cent, of tribasic phosphate 
of lime) to over 20 per cent, of phosphoric acid (equal to 
nearly 44 per cent, of phosphate), so that guarantees of quality 
should be carefully considered by the purchaser. 

Selected Constituents in Basic Slag. 

Lime.. .. ., .. .. .. .. ^5-04 per cent. 

Magnesia . . . . . . . . . . . . 6*20 ,, 

Phosphoric acid .. . .. .. .. i8-ii ,, 

Iron oxides .. .. .. .. .. .. I7'56 ,, 

Silica . . . . . . . . . . . . 6-90 

Manganese . . . . . . . . . . . . 3-51 



Experiments with basic slag have indicated that to produce 
the same effects as superphosphate, at least twice the quantity 
should be applied in the form of slag as would suffice in that 
of superphosphate,,,..— Soils poor in lime, or those inclined to be 
wet and sticky^/'^e most benefited by basic slag, provided that 
they contain plenty of organic matter. Basic slag is a manure 
wxll adaptej^ for fruit-trees, flowering shrubs, Roses, lawns, pad- 
docks, and pastures. It must not be used in combination with 
ammonia salt, because it sets the ammonia free, and causes, 
a loss of plant-food. It may, however, be mixed with nitrate 
of soda. 

Superphosphates. — Mineral superphosphate is the cheapest source 
of soluble phosphate manure, and is made by treating with 
sulphuric acid very finely-ground mineral rock phosphates. The 
value of the superphosphate for manurial purposes ' is indicated 
by the percentage of phosphate made soluble, which may range 
from 25 per cent, to 28 per cent. Superphosphates are frequently 
made containing as much as from 35 per cent, to 40 per cent, 
of soluble phosphate, or even more. They are then called 
" double superphosphates," and are practically free from sul- 
phuric acid, which is a decided advantage on soils that are 
subject to the disease known as " Club-Root " in the Brassica 
family. 

When superphosphate is applied, the first rainfall or artificial 
watering, or even the moisture of the soil, dissolves the- 

4 D 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



soluble phosphate, and causes it to sink and distribute throughout 
the soil. The roots of the growing crops are thus provided with 
a continuous supply of phosphoric food, and there is a dissemination 
of the manure obtained through a large soil area, which is especially 
helpful to young seedling plants. Superphosphates are most bene- 
ficial on soils rich in lime. Very concentrated superphosphates 
should never be used in large quantities if there is but little lime 
in the soil, as there is a danger of injury to plant roots. Though 
especially esteemed for Turnips, Potatoes, and all root crops, 
concentrated phosphatic manures are valuable for insuring a very 
rapid and vigorous early growth of most seedlings, and assisting 
maturition and fruit development. 

We learn from some investigations of Professor Wagner with 
vines, fruit-trees, and berry-bearing shrubs, that a great deal 
depends upon these plants producing leaves rapidly and abundantly 
in early spring ; also upon the blossoms appearing at the right 
time, and upon the fructification ensuing vigorously ; inasmuch 
as the more completely all these phenomena take place, the more 
certain are the prospects of a fruit production satisfactory alike 
as to quantity and quality. In the case of kitchen vegetables, 
and all seedlings, it is also of great advantage to make these 
develop rapidly and vigorously, in order that they may recover 
as soon as possible from the ravages made upon them by 
insects, frosts, and bad weather ; further, that they may 
elaborate as quickly as possible a widely-distributed and deeply- 
penetrating network of healthy roots, and in this way acquire so 
much vital energy and so much power of resistance that they 
can successfully encounter all injurious influences from whatever 
source. 

In order to attain all this, the following conditions must be 
fulfilled — that the plant during its early stages of development 
has placed at its disposal as much easily available and readily 
soluble phosphate as it can possibly assimilate. On the lighter 
descriptions of soil, it has been found that phosphoric acid is 
less important in fruit culture as a manure than potash. How- 
ever, the best results are to be expected when the fruit-grower 
closely observes the behaviour of his trees, and then applies such 
manurial ingredients as they appear to need. 

Professor Voorhees gives the following practical suggestions 
for the fertilising of orchards. He states that a system of 
manuring for cultivated orchards based upon the limited 
data at our disposal may be outlined as follows : " To 
provide vegetable matter and to improve the physical 
quality of poor soils, apply farmyard manure once in four years 
at the rate of from five tons to ten tons per acre. To aid in 
the decomposition of the vegetable matter, and to ensure a 
sufiiciency of lime as plant - food, apply lime at the rate 
of twenty - five bushels per acre once in five years. To 



ON MANURES. 



II39 



provide in addition an abundance of all forms of available 
plant-food at the times needed for the development of the trees 
and fruit, apply annually chemical fertilisers in the following pro- 
portions per acre : 

Nitrate soda . . . . . . . . . . . . loolb. 

Superphosphate . . . . . . . . . . lOolb. 

Bone-meal . . . . . . . . . . . . 20olb. 

Potash 20olb. 

The amounts to be applied must depend upon the character 
of the soil, the kind of fruit to be grown, and the age and vigour 
of the trees." 

Guano. — Most horticulturists favour guano as a manure, and 
until within recent years this was certainly one of the most 
important nitrogenous fertilisers in the market. True guano is a 
substance found upon certain almost rainless islands along the 
coast of Peru, which has resulted from the slow decomposition 
of the dung and other refuse of sea-birds. 

The wonderful plant results obtained with small quantities ot 
this very concentrated manure produced the utmost astonishment 
among both farmers and gardeners, and greatly stimulated the 
constant inquiry into the action of manures generally, which has 
resulted in the addition of a great number of artificial fertilisers, 
and in the greater knowledge of the action of manures which 
we now possess. 

The guano which is procurable at the present date is dis- 
tinctly inferior to that which was formerly imported, and buyeis 
should protect themselves by asking for some guarantee as to 
the quality of their purchases. It is in the nitrogenised com- 
pounds of guano that its value is to be chiefly attributed. In 
the best descriptions of guano, the nitrogen may range from 
10 per cent, to 17 per cent., the phosphoric acid from 12 per 
cent, to 15 per cent., and the potash from 2 per cent, to 8 per 
cent. The classes of guano now to be obtained will probably 
not contain more than from 4 per cent, to 8 per cent, of 
nitrogen, 9 per cent, to 12 per cent, of phosphoric acid, and 
from I per cent, to 3 per cent, of potash ; but even with this 
composition it is a powerful manure. 

Considered as a general manure, the phosphates predominate 
over the other constituents, and guano is therefore very useful 
as an adjunct to farmyard or stable manure, which are poor 
in phosphates. It is poor in potash, consequently on soil and 
crops requiring a large supply of this ingredient, it should be 
used in conjunction with potash-salts, kainit, or wood-ashes. 

About one-third of the nitrogen present in guano is in the 
condition of ready-formed ammonia, which acts very quickly 
on plant-life ; the remaining two-thirds are present in a variety 

4 D 2 



1 140 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



of organic compounds, which yield up ammonia as they decay. 
As many of them are easily soluble in water, the decomposition 
is rapid. About one-fourth of the phosphates also are easily 
soluble in water ; hence, guano may rank as a quick-acting 
manure, and, to prevent waste of plant-food, it is best applied 
in spring, or when plant growth is most active. The insoluble 
phosphate of lime, forming the bulk of the guano phosphate, 
is, however, only slow^ly available for plants, being in that respect 
similar to the phosphate in bone-meal, the benefit of which is 
only obtained some considerable time after application to the 
soil. 

Like nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia, guano is a 
manure of quick action, tending to develop rapid growth of the 
leafy parts of plants. One merit of this manure is that it assures 
a good start to a young seedling crop. Starting with a fertile 
soil, such as that of a well-cultivated garden, the efficiency of 
guano as compared wdth that of farmyard manure of good quality 
may be estimated to be in the proportion of icwt. of guano to 
65cwt. to yocwt. of farmyard manure. The difference in the time 
and labour required for the handling of these two quantities of 
manure is a point worth considering by those who garden for 
profit. 

Unadulterated guano has some advantage over most other un- 
mixed manures containing the same percentages of nitrogen and 
phosphates, on account of its more complex chemical condition. 
The manurial constituents are in several different forms, and of 
different degrees of solubility, so that they supply the plant 
requirements more slowly and evenly through the period of 
growth than can be done by manures in which the ingredients 
are each in some one form of chemical combination. 

It is a case of necessity that the soil to which guano 
is applied shall be adequately supplied with water. If there 
is a lack of moisture the components of guano will not 
dissolve, ferment action cannot take place, and comparatively 
little effect will be produced by the manure. In dry seasons 
guano is apt to disappoint expectations w^hen sown to outdoor 
crops. Its best results are obtained when applied to good moist 
loams. 

Guano is a capital fertiliser admixed with water (one ounce 
to I gal. of water), and applied in small quantities pretty 
frequently in the presence of an abundance of moisture to most 
garden plants in pot-culture. 

Artificial Guanos. — Artificial imitations of dissolved Peruvian 
guano are made by mixing sulphate of ammonia with super- 
phosphate made from phosphatic mineralised guanos and from 
mineral phosphates. These are guaranteed to contain varying 
proportions of ammonia and phosphates according to the prices, 
and if properly made are rapidly - acting fertilisers. These 



ON MANURES. 



1 141 



descriptions of manure will be found useful on all classes of soils 
except those derived from limestone and chalk rocks. 

Nitrate of Soda.—-\\. has been abundantly proved that for the 
greater number of garden plants the nitrogen they use must be 
converted in the soil into nitric acid, and the nitric acid into 
nitrates, before it furnishes appropriate nitrogenous food. The 
importance of nitrate of soda as a fertiliser thus becomes 
obvious. It will increase the productiveness of nearly every 
crop that is grown. It does not follow, however, that its applica- 
tion is alike profitable on all crops : the profit depends very 
much on the price of the produce in the market. 

Nitrate of soda contains from 15 per cent, to 16 per cent, of 
nitrogen, and it is the most active and efficient of all the nitro- 
genous manures, supplying plant-food of the most concentrated 
and direct kind, and its action is both feeding and stimulating. 
Its chief peculiarity is that it acts almost immediately on the 
plant to w^hich it is applied. It is especially valuable in seasons 
of drought, as it enables the young plant to root rapidly, and 
become less dependent on surface moisture. 

To those who are accustomed to use farmyard or stable 
manures our advice is to continue its use ; but if the object is to 
grow maximum crops easily assimilable nitrates must be furnished 
in some way to the plants, in addition to the slow-acting natural 
manures. 

With few exceptions, all the fertilisers now generally used, 
in proportion to the wants of the plant, contain a larger 
quantity of phosphoric acid, potash, &c., than they do of 
available nitrogen. Hence, if the market grower desires to 
raise maximum early crops, he must furnish available nitrogen, 
and the cheapest and best form to get this food is by nitrate 
of soda. 

A grower of Tomatoes on a large scale says : " I cannot 
recommend too highly the use of nitrate of soda in growing 
Tomatoes, especially when early ripening is desired. When used 
at the rate of 1501b. to 1751b. per acre, or one table-spoonful 
to a single plant, and in connection with wood-ashes, the 
total yield of early fruit will be largely increased. A larger 
quantity of nitrate will increase the yield of fruit, but at the 
expense of the net profit on the crop. However, great care 
must be exercised in the application of nitrate of soda to any 
plant, and especially to Tomatoes ; it should not come in direct 
contact with either the stalk or the roots." 

The solubility of nitrate of soda and the readiness with which 
it finds its way into the soil — the very qualities which render it 
so valuable as an immediately available plant-food — have been 
alleged as objections to its use. Old prejudices, however, as to 
the exhaustive character are fast dying out in the light of a fuller 
scientific knowledge. 



1 142 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Drainage water, it has been found, will carry with it more or 
less of the nitrate which has been applied to growing crops, but 
it is a comparatively rare occurrence for water to pass through the 
soil out of reach of plant roots, after the land is in condition to 
work in the spring, in sufficient quantity to cause serious loss ; 
besides, young plants take up nitrogen so rapidly, and send 
their roots down so quickly into the soil, that the nitrate cannot 
escape them, even if washed down by heavy showers or by 
artificial waterings. 

Sulphate of Ammonia. — Next to nitrates the most available 
form in which nitrogen can be furnished to plants is ammonia. 
Sulphate of ammonia contains weight for weight more nitrogen 
than nitrate of soda. When ammonia salts are applied to the 
soil, the ammonia must be converted into nitric acid before the 
plants can use it. If lime is deficient in the soil, the conversion 
of ammonia into nitric acid will be retarded, and in this case 
the ammonia, if applied to such crops as Onions, Beet, Potatoes, 
&c., would at first be injurious rather than beneficial. On the 
other hand, from an economical point of view, this manure cannot 
be recommended for chalky and limestone soils, because lime 
assists to expel the ammonia in a state of gas. Sulphate of 
ammonia, however, has some peculiar advantages as a manure, 
being slower in its action than nitrate of soda, and its efficiency 
in the garden depends greatly on the completeness of the 
accompanying mineral supply. It mixes well with bone-meal 
or superphosphate. It is a capital fertiliser for Chrysanthemums, 
foliage plants, Poinsettias, Potatoes, &c. For the colouring of 
Grapes, sulphate of ammonia has been recommended, but it 
must be applied in small quantities only. 

When nitrate of soda is used as manure, its nitrogen does not 
enter into fixed combinations within the soil, but nitrate is dis- 
solved in the soil-water, and unless taken up by vegetation 
much food material passes into the sub-soil beyond the reach of 
the roots of growing crops. When ammonia salts are used, 
part of the ammonia is temporarily taken up by the soil, but 
it is more or less, according to the character of the soil and 
of the season, converted into nitrates, and is then subject to 
loss as when nitrate of soda is used. The loss will be less 
if the manures are applied in the spring months, and to quickly- 
growing crops. 

The gardener must remember that these concentrated nitro- 
genous manures when used by themselves tend to produce 
foliage rather than flowers or fruit, especially if the ground 
has been partially exhausted of its mineral ingredients by 
previous crops. To obviate this difficulty superphosphate of 
lime, bone-meal, potash salts, and the like, may be given in 
addition. 



ON MANURES. 



1 



Chief Sources of Potash. 

Wood-Ashes constituted for a long time the chief source of the 
supply of potash used for gardening purposes. The incom- 
bustible part, or minerals, of garden crops and of shrubs and 
fruit-trees contain from one-fourth to one-third its weight of 
potash. For this reason the ashes of refuse garden stuff forms a 
capital dressing for Carrots, Onions, and most plants in pots. 

Kainit is, on account of its low price, in great favour as a 
cheap form of potassic fertiliser. The crude kainit found in 
commerce contains 12 per cent, to 13 per cent, of potash, 27 
per cent, to 30 per cent, of magnesia, and 30 per cent, of 
common salt. It is more valuable in light loam than in heavier 
soils, which it makes more sticky. A fair dressing per acre 
would be from 3cwt. to 6cwt., mixed with other fertilisers, and 
worked well into the soil. 

Sulphate of Potash^ which is the chief potash salt in kainit, is 
also sold in a more concentrated form than in that crude salt, 
and is found in commerce with from 50 per cent, to 54 per cent, 
of potash, or more than four times the amount per cent, found 
in kainit. Although its price is considerably higher than that of 
kainit, growers will find it more advantageous whenever freight 
and cartage are considerations, the fertiliser being four times more 
concentrated : icwt. per acre forms a good dressing in con- 
junction with other manures. 

Chloride 01' Muriate of Potash is the most soluble of the various 
salts of potash, and when purified contains as much as 63 per 
cent, of potash, or 80 per cent, of muriate of potash. It is 
obtained as a by-product in the manufacture of chlorate of potash, 
in the purification of nitre and other manufactures. Its use, 
however, is said to be harmful on certain crops, such as the 
Sugar Cane and Sugar Beets, in which it lessens the percentage of 
crystallisable sugar, while Potatoes are rendered waxy, and Tobacco 
leaves are deteriorated in value ; in the soil it is besides apt to 
give rise to the formation of common salt, while the sulphate 
gives rise to the formation of gypsum, which in saline potash 
especially is of value to plants. 

Chief Sources of Lime. 

Liine applied to soils has a mechanical as well as a chemical 
effect. It assists in the decomposition of organic matter, and 
combining with the nitrates as they are formed, produces nitrate 
of lime, one of the most active of plant-foods ; it sweetens sour 
soils, such as water-meadow soils and very rich old kitchen-garden 
soils, by neutralising the otherwise harmful acids ; it indirectly 
supplies plant-food — that is to say, it combines with other 
substances in the soil, bringing them into an available and 
assimilable form for the plants to take up ; it is a necessity to 



1 144 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



the process of nitrification ; it increases the virtue of the soil 
by retaining moisture, and helps some of the chemical processes 
in the soil, which result in the more ready absorption of phos- 
phoric acid, potash, and ammonia ; and it promotes early maturity, 
favouring the vegetative property of plants. A good dressing is 
from ten to twenty bushels to the acre in ordinary gardens, and 
from two to three tons in sour soils. Lime may be broadcasted 
and raked or harrowed in, as it has a tendency to sink into 
the soil. 

Quicklime acts more energetically than carbonate of lime, 
and is very good on soils especially rich in organic matter, and 
on sour soils. 

Gas-lime contains small quantities of ammonia, also carbonate 
of lime, sulphate of lime, and sulphites of lime (combinations of 
quicklime and sulphuretted hydrogen), which are injurious to 
all forms of life, whether vegetable or animal, and therefore gas- 
lime must be exposed to the air before applying to the soil, in 
order to oxidise these deleterious products and change them into 
sulphate of lime or gypsum. When used as an insecticide, it 
should be employed as fresh as possible. It will be found 
exceedingly beneficial if applied to soils affected by the disease 
known as Club-Root or Anbury, in root crops, and the 
Brassica family. In this case, it may be spread on the land in 
autumn and ploughed or dug in ; from thirty to fifty bushels per 
acre may be used. 

Carbonate of Lime. — Chalk, shell-sand, and marls are all forms of 
carbonate of lime. The marls also contain a certain proportion of 
potash and of phosphoric acid. These forms of lime added to lands 
deficient in this substance have proved of great value : they are 
capable of neutralizing the organic acids contained in sour soils, 
and form a valuable plant-food for many garden crops ; they 
exert a decided beneficial mechanical influence upon stiff" soils, 
besides consolidating light, sandy soils, liberating the potash and 
forming the valuable double silicates. ]\Iarls are particularly 
useful in the cultivation of Roses. 

Green Manuring. 

This is one of the best and cheapest ways of adding humus or 
organic matter, to poor sandy soils especially. The term is 
applied to some quick-growing crop, such as mustard, which is 
ploughed in green. Green manuring adds nothing to the 
mineral matter of the soil. Its utihty is due to its getting 
organic matter from the carbonic acid of the air ; and also, as 
in the case of leguminous plants, a certain amount of nitrogen 
from the same source. The roots of green crops bring up 
plant-food from the sub-soil to the surface for the use of 
succeeding crops. Green manuring helps to smother weeds, and 
it may in some cases destroy insects. Various crops are used 



ON MANURES. 



II45 



for green manuring : they should be quickly-growing plants 
yielding a large quantity of green stuff ; the crop should be 
ploughed or dug in when the weather is moderately moist and 
warm to favour decomposition. 

Manures Applicable to Fruit=growing. 

It is important that artificial manures should be applied to 
fruit-trees for their successful growth, as there is little doubt 
but that the so - called precarious nature of, or failure in, 
fruit-farming is largely due to improper methods of cultivation. 
Fruit-trees require manuring as much as ordinary garden crops, and 
it should always be borne in mind that the soil has to receive back 
that which has been taken from it in the crops of fruit removed, 
and this restitution is made by using the proper manures. 

The fruit - grower will no doubt desire to ask how he 
is to tell just w^hat kind and what quantity of fertilisers 
to apply to his land. This is one of those questions which no 
person can answer for him. Prof. L. H. Bailey says, having 
studied the matter carefully, and having observed his orchard 
from day to day and year to year, the cultivator should be able 
to discover the treatment which it needs. As a general statement, 
it may be said that the fruit orchard which is yielding satis- 
factory results is receiving the very treatment which it requires ; but 
where it is giving unsatisfactory returns some change in the 
management should be made. An orchard which is in grass and 
not doing well should certainly be ploughed up and tilled. The 
beneficial effect of this operation has been fully demonstrated 
at the Woburn Fruit Farm. An orchard which is tilled and is 
not doing well may be benefited by seeding down with clover, 
to be afterwards fed off by sheep, the residue being ploughed in. 
If the growth is strong and vigorous, and the trees or fruit-bushes 
seem to be going to wood at the expense of the fruit, it shows 
that the soil contains too much nitrogen in proportion to the 
mineral supply. A good dressing of superphosphate, bone-meal, 
or basic slag, combined with some potash salt, should be given 
in the autumn or very early spring. In all cases in which the 
growth is not sufficient, and the leaves are yellow and drop 
early, it is probable that either more nitrogen or more moisture, 
or both, are needed, or it may show that the soil contains too 
much lime in proportion to the other minerals. In these cases 
a mulching of farmyard manure should be given, or probably 
quicker and cheaper results may be obtained by the direct 
application of nitrogenous fertilisers, such as nitrate of soda, 
sulphate of ammonia, guano, or dried blood. 

The fruit-grower should remember further, that the trees need 
all the elements of plant-food, and not one of them alone. For 
example, a heavy application of nitrogen upon soil which is 
deficient in potash and phosphoric acid cannot be expected to 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



give useful results. In the same way, the application of potash 
to soils which are very poor in nitrogen or phosphoric acid would 
be comparatively useless. Then heavy loamy or clay soils nearly 
always contain an abundance of potash and phosphoric acid in 
a more or less unavailable condition, and much of these sub- 
stances may be liberated to the plant by careful tillages, and the 
incorporation of humus. " However, it is nearly always advis- 
able," says Prof. Bailey, "in orchards which are bearing to add 
these materials in the shape of concentrated manures." The 
quickest results following the use of fertilisers will be seen upon 
sandy soils. Two or three years often elapse after the applica- 
tion of chemical manures to heavy lands before any decided 
results are observed. In other words clay soils ordinarily show 
quicker results from tillage operations than they do from the 
application of fertilisers. The fruit-grower should never rely ex- 
clusively upon chemical plant-foods, because they contain no 
humus, and the soil is apt to become hard and lifeless. 

The importance of humus matter as an ameliorator of the soil 
is obvious, for when humus is absent sandy soils become too 
loose, hot, and leachy, and the plant-food gets washed away, 
while heavy clay soils bake in dry weather, and become hard and 
impervious to the fibrous roots. 

In order that fruit may ripen and colour satisfactorily, the 
roots of the trees should be encouraged to luxuriate as near the 
surface of the soil as possible, so as to get all the benefit from 
the action of the sun's rays. 

It has been found that diseased and unproductive conditions 
of Apricot, Nectarine, and Peach trees are largely due to an 
excess of silica in the soil, and a deficiency of nearly all the 
other mineral constituents. In other words, an unproductive 
condition indicates soil exhaustion, which is remedied by the 
application of suitable manures. 

Manures Applicable to Strawberry Culture. 

Strawberry-growers sometimes complain that when the plants 
forced in pots are grown with guano or other phosphatic manure, 
it is found that, although many blossoms are produced, they do 
not set, or if they do, the fruit is inferior in size and quality to 
the smaller quantity produced by less vigorous plants grown in 
poorer soil. There is no doubt that a small amount of kainit 
or other potash manure, added to the usual quantity of guano, 
would greatly improve the size, yield, and quality of the fruit. 

For the growth of Strawberries the soil should be naturally 
fertile, deeply cultivated, and liberally manured every year. High 
manuring for this crop is an essential condition for successful 
growth, because not only has the fruit to be provided for, but 
there is a considerable drain upon the plants in the production 



ON MANURES. 



II47 



of runners. Then, again, the growing season of the Strawberry 
is short, and more especially the fruiting period. 

During a comparatively brief time there is a large demand for 
immediately available forms of plant-food, a demand that must 
be met if the best results are to be obtained ; and it may be 
stated that artificial fertilisers have a great advantage over farm- 
yard manure in the culture of Strawberries, because they can be 
varied in their constituents to suit the wants of the plants at 
each period of their growth, and according to the character of 
the soil at command. 




COPRIXUS COMATUS (ShAGGY CaP MUSHROOM). 

A most delicious edible native mushroom, extremely fond oj manure (hence 
the generic na^ne), and frequently found in shrubberies and borders. It 
should be eaten in a young state, ajid before the inky black fluid, 7i<hich 
characterises it at maturity, is emitted. 





\ V^^^'7s\ Appendix. 




following 



With a view to giving those who desire it a 
more extended choice of subject than the body 
of the work affords in some few chapters, the 
additional species and varieties are included by 
way of Appendix. To economise space, certain frequently- 
recurring words have been conti'acted, such as 1., leaves; 
fl., flowers; cr., crimson; sc., scarlet; car., carmine; yel., 
yellow; mag., magenta; dbl., double. 

3.— ON FLORISTS' FLOWERS 

(p. 43 to p. 92). 

Purple 



Auriculas — Show 

Green - Edged — Champion, John 
Garrett, Snitherfield Green, and 
Talisman, 

Grey-Edged — COLONEL C hamp- 
neys, Ringleader, Silvia, and 
William Brockbank. 

White-Edged — Dr. Kidd, Heather 
Bell, Princess May, Reliance, 
and True Briton. 

Selfs — Lord of Lorne, Pizarro, 
Rev. Charles Kingsley, Sir 
Lancelot, and Vulcan. 

Carnations — Tree 

CoMUS, white. Jean Sisley, buff 
yel., with red suffusions. Jl^lian, 
deep sc. Patrocles, sc. Primrose 
Day, yel. Sardis, pink. Scylla, 
pure white. Sylvanus, purple. 
Uriah Pike, cr. Winter Cheer, 
bright sc. Zenobia, buff yel., edged 
cr. 

— ■ Show 

Scarlet Bizarres — Duke of York, 
Robert Monk, and Tom Power. 

Crimson Bizarres — Bruce Find- 
LAY, Thaddeus, and Virgil. 



Pink and Purple Bizarres — 
Melody, Niobe, Princess Bea- 
trice, Sarah Payne, and Squire 
Penson. 

Purple Flakes — Ada, Beauty of 
AVooDHURST, Florence Nightin- 
gale, Purple Gem, Queen Vic- 
toria, and Squire Whitbourn. 

Scarlet Flakes — Alisemond, 
Bailey Junior, Ceres, Huntsman, 
Richard Dean, and Scarlet Keet. 

Rose Flakes — Maid of Athens, 
RosAMUNDi, St. Gatien, and 
Troubadour. 

— Picotees — White Ground 

Red-Edged — Dr. Epps, Isabel 
Lakin, J. B. Bryant, Mrs. Dod- 
well. Princess of Wales, and 
Violet Douglas. 

Purple-Edged — Admiration, Am y 
RoBSART, Baroness Burdett- 
CouTTS, Mary, Mrs. May, and 
Zerlina. 

Rose- and Scarlet-Edged — Beauty'' 
of Plumstead, Charles Williams, 
Edith d' Ombrain, Europa, Favour- 
ite, Norman Carr, Psyche, and 
Venus. 

4 E 



1 150 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ON FLORISTS' FLOWERS— a 

— Picotees (contd.) — Yellow 

Ground 

Effie Deans, Eldorado, Harle- 
quin, Horatio, Miss Violet, 
President Carnot, The Gift, and 
Xerxes. 

— Malmaison 

Calypso, soft pink, salmon centre. 
Lady Grimston, pinkish white, with 
bright rose ; very fragrant. Lord 
RosEBERY, deep rose ; fragrant. Lord 
Welby, deep cr. Margot, bright 
rose. Nell Gwynne, pure white. 
Trumpeter, deep sc. ; sweet-scented. 

Dahlias — Show 

Arthur Rawlings, cr. Colonist, 
chocolate and fawn. Duchess of 
York, light yel., edged pink. Duke 
of Fife, deep red. Eclipse, sc. 
Glowworm, sc. James Cocker, 
purple. John Walker, white. Mrs. 
Gladstone, pink. Mrs. Langtry, 
cream, edged red. R. T. Rawlings, 
yel. William Powell, primrose. 
William Rawlings, cr.-purple. 
Yellow Pet. Zelinda, cr.-purple. 

— Fancy 

Frank Pearce, rose, cr. stripes. 
Matthew Campbell, apricot, cr. 
stripes. Mrs. J. Downie, orange, sc. 
stripes. Mrs. Saunders, yel., tipped 
white. Peacock, maroon, tipped white. 
Rebecca, lilac, striped cr. Rev. J. B. 
Camm, yel., flaked red. T. W. GiR- 
dlestone, hlac, flaked dark maroon. 

— Pompon 

Arthur West, cr. Bacchus, cr.- 
sc. Douglas, dark maroon. E. F. 
JuNGKER, amber-yel. Emily Hopper, 
deep yel. Eurydice, delicate pink, 
edged purple. George Brinckman, 
white. Hypatia, amber, shaded fawn. 
Isabel, orange-sc. Martial, cr. 
Nellie Broom head, mauve, Hghter 
ground. Nerissa, rose. Phcebe, 
orange. Whisper, yel., edged bronze. 

— Cactus 

Alfred Vasey, amber, shaded 
pink. Arachne, white, edged cr. 
Bertha Mawley, bright red. Bri- 
tannia, pale salmon, bronzy tint. 
Charles Woodbridge, cr. Cinder- 
ella, purple. Countess of Gosford, 
yel., shaded cinnamon. Cycle, ruby- 
red. Delicata, pink. Fantasy, 
light red. Fusilier, salmon-red. 



td. 

Harry Stredwick, maroon. Lady 
Penzance, yel. Mrs. Barnes, prim- 
rose, pink shadings. Mrs. Wilson 
Noble, salmon. Regulus, rich cr. 
Starfish, sc. Tillie, salmon, pale 
rose shadings. 

— Decorative 

Arthur Cheat, cr. Avalanche, 
white, tinted pink. Constance, pure 
white. Countess of Pembroke, 
lilac. Glare of the Garden, sc. 
Millie Scupham, deep orange. Mkss 
Webster, white. Mrs. Hawkins, 
sulphur. The Queen, pure white. 
Yellow A. W. Tait, pure yel. 

— Singles — Selfs or Shaded 

Amos Perry, velvety - maroon. 
Annie Hughes, yel. at base, rosy-pink 
outer florets. Demon, nearly black. 
Donna Casilda, deep orange, shaded 
rose, maroon ring at disk. GoLDEN- 
LOCKS, rich yel. Miss Roberts, clear 
yel, Polly Eccles, satiny-fawn, cr. 
ring, yel, disk. ROSEBANK, cardinal 
red. The Bride, white. W. C. 
Harvey, orange-yel. 

— Singles — Fancy 

Emmie, white. Folly, pale pink, 
margined bright red. Fred Leslie, 
bright red. Jack Sheppard, yel., 
striped red. M.C.C., rich yel. 
Northern Star, red, edged deep 
buff". Phyllis, white, striped and 
flaked dark purple. Victoria, white, 
edged crimson. 

— Singles— Tom Thumb 

Daisy, cr. Golden Fairy, deep 
yel. Hoop La, dark maroon, yel, ring. 
Maud, deep sc. Mignon, pink. 

— Singles — Cactus 

Alice Lee, pink and white. Amy 

ROBSART, sc. DANDIE DiNMONT, 

yel. Lady Rowena, sulphur, shaded 
rose. Meg Merrilees, yel. Sir 
Walter, rose, orange ring. The 
Abbess, white. 

Gladiolus — Gandavensis 

Admiral AVallis, brilliant cr. 
Alfred Henderson, vermilion. 
Andromeda, yel., lilac shadings. 
Benjamin Harrison, orange-cerise. 
Civis, rose-pink, striped violet. 
Countess Craven, rose, flaked car. 
Dr. Woodman, salmon, flaked and 
blotched piok. Duchess of Edin- 



I 



APPENDIX. 



ON FLORISTS' FLOWERS— .wzz't/. 



BURGH, purplish-rose, striped pink. 
James Kelway, cr., edged maroon. 
Lord W. Beresford, amaranth- 
purple. Mrs. Langtry, white, tinged 
purple. Prixcess Royal, pink, rose 
mottlings. Shirley Hibberd, pur- 
phsh-cr. AViLLlAM Kelway, sc.-cr. 

— Childsii 

AuREA Superba, orange - sc., 
mottled white. Columbia, sc., flaked 
maroon. Earl Cadogan, deep sc. 
Kitchener, sc., striped yel. Major 
Dickie, sc.-cr. Xros, sc., white lines. 
Wm. Falconer, pink, spotted cr. 
and white. 

— Nanceianus 

Carltox. bright purple. Colonial 
Secretary, sc., spotted. Hall 
Caixe, yel., spotted. J. G. Clarke, 
salmon - rose on a cream ground. 
Lord Curzon, cerise, with yel. centre. 
]NL\URICE DE ViLMORiN dark blue, 
purple blotches. Robert Boxxixg, 
sc., white centre. 

— Lemoinei 

Abia, cream, with yel. lip. Beauty, 
white, violet spotted. Epeus, orange- 
red, spotted. Holland, soft pink, car. 
spotted. Sant, deep yel. Xenia, 
rosy-lilac and yel., dark blotch. 

Hollyhock 

Alba Superba, white. Aletha 
Smith, soft pink. Alfred Chater, 
mottled rose. Amaranth, deep pink. 
Black Knight Improved. Crimson 
Queen. Fire King, bright red and 
heliotrope. 

Pansies — Fancy 

Andrew Struthers, Constance 
Steel, David G. M'Kay, Jeanie R. 



Kerr, John Robertson, Lord 
Salisbury, Miss Stirling, Mrs. J. 
CuRRiE, Mrs. M. Cuthbertson, 
Mrs. W. Steele, Princess, and 
Sir John Watson. 

— Show 

Agxes Kay, Alex. Black, Allan 
Stewart, A. Rolland, Bessie 
Smellie, Bobby Harper, Busby 
Beauty, Col. Stirling, Dr. Inch, 
G. C. Gordon, Grace Darling, 
J. E. Martin, Lilybank Gem, 
Maggie Benson, Mary Mitchell, 
Mrs. Wilson, and Robert M. 
AVenley. 

Picotees. See "Carnations." 

Ranunculus — Persian 

Commodore Napier, yel., tipped 
purple. Fireball, sc. Mont Blanc, 
white. Queen Caroline, white, 
striped pink. 

— Turkish 

GRANDIFLORA, pink. ROMANO, 

sc. Soucis DoRE, orange. ViRiDi- 
FLORA, orange-sc, green centre. 

Violas 

A. J. Row^BERRY, deep yel., rayless. 
Archibald Grant, deep blue. Bor- 
der AViTCH, pale blue. Countess 
OF KiNTORE, deep pui-ple, edged 
white. Crown Jewel, dark purple, 
edged white. Hamlet, a combination 
of purple, dark brown, and bright 
orange. Layexder KixG. Lucellia 
Gold, pure white, edged deep mauve. 
NoRAH May, silvery- white, pale blue 
rays. Ulidia, white, edged mauve. 
White Empress, ravless. 



4.— ON 

(P- 93 

Tea 

Adam, blush-rose, very sweet scent. 
Amelie Pollonnais, satin-rose ; new. 
BoROXNE Ada, creamy-white ; new. 
Bonamour, bright red ; ne nV ; very 
promising. Christixe de Noue, 
deep cr. Cleopatra, pale pink. 
Comtesse Dusy, pure white. Em- 
press Alexandra of Russia, 
bronzy-salmon ; new. Enchantress, 
soft creamy-white; new. G. Xabon- 



ROSES 

P- 135)- 

NAND, soft rose. Hatchet Effendi, 
yel., shaded soft rose. Homer, rosy- 
white. Isabella Sprunt, sulphur- 
yel. Isabella Rivoire, soft salmon- 
rose ; new. Jean Pernet, bright yel. 
Jeanne Guillaumez, red, shaded 
salmon. M. Ada Carmody, white, 
shaded rose; new. Madame de 
AVatteville, white, shaded salmon. 
Madame Falcot, apricot - yel. 
Madame Lambard, salmon - pink. 



II52 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ON R.OSES—confd. 

Madame Rene Gerard, coppeiy-yel. 
Madame Villermoz, white, shading 
to salmon. Medea, lemon colom-. 
Narcisse, soft yel. Princess Alice 
DE Monaco, creamy-yel. Rubens, 
white, shaded rose. Souvenir de 
Catherine Guillot, coppery-car. 
Souvenir d'Elise Vardon, creamy- 
white. Souvenir de Madame 
Sableyrolles, rosy-salmon. Sylph, 
white, tinted with rose. 

Climbing- Tea 

Bouquet d'Or, salmon-yel. Climb- 
ing Perle des Jardins, pure yel. 
Emily Dupuy, pale fawn. Gross- 
HERZOG Ernest Ludwig, the red 
Marechal Niel. Kaiserin Fried- 
rich, the colour of Gloire de Dijon. 
Madam Moreau, coppery yel. 
Valentine Altemann, pure white. 

Hybrid Tea- scented 

Antotne Rivoire, rosy-flesh. 
Augustine Guinoisseau, a white 
La France, Aurora, salmon pink ; 
new. Beaute Lyonnaise, white, 
shaded with yel. Charlotte Gille- 
mot, ivory white. Clara Watson, 
salmon pink. Gruss an Teplitz, 
bright scar. Helena Cambier, sal- 
mon rose. Josephine Marot, white, 
shaded rose. l'Innocence, pure 
white. Lady Henry Grosvenor, 
flesh. Madame Eugene Boullet, 
bright yel. Madame Jules Finger, 
creamy white. Marjorie, white suf- 
fused with pink. Mrs. W. C. Whit- 
ney, deep pink. Marquise Litta, 
car. -rose. PRINCESS Bonnie, rich cr. ; 
semi-double. Souvenir de Woot- 
ton, rosy-red. The Meteor, deep 
cr. W. F. Bennett, cr. White 
Lady, creamy-white. 

Hybrid Perpetual 

Alphonse Soupert, bright rose. 
AUGUSTE RiGOTARD, brilliant red. 



Bacchus, cr. Baron Haussmann, 
dark red. Bessie Johnson, pale blush. 
Brilliant, rich sc.-cr. Charles 
Dickens, magenta - rose. Crimson 
Queen, velvety - cr. Dowager 
Duchess of Marlborough, pure 
rose. Due d' Orleans, deep red. 
Duchess of Bedford, cr.-sc. Duke 
OF Albany, deep cr. Ella Gordon, 
deep cherry. Elise Bgelle, white, 
faintly shaded rose. Exposition de 
Brie, pale red. Francisque Rive, 
cerise, shaded car. Gloire de l'Ex- 
position de Bruxelles, purplish- 
amaranth. Grand Mogul, deep cr. 
Helen Keller, rosy-cerise. Inigo 
Jones, dark rose. Jules Margottin, 
bright cherr}-. Lady Sheffield, rosy- 
cerise. La Duchesse de Morny, 
delicate rose. Lord Bacon, rich cr. 
Lord Macaulay, sc.-cr. Louis Van 
HouTTE, blackish-cr. Madame Bois, 
bright rose. MADAME Charles 
Wood, vinous-cr. Madame Joseph 
Bonnaire, silvery-rose. Madame 
Lacharme, white, flushed rose. 
Madame Verrier Cachet, bright 
rose. Mdlle. Marie Rady, bright 
red. Magna Charta, rich pink. 
Marchioness of Lorne, rose ; 
Marquise de Castellane, rich rose. 
JNIaurice Bernardin, vermilion. 
Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford, 
rosy-pink. Pierre Notting, blackish- 
red. Prefet Limbourg, velvety-red. 
Pride of Reigate, spotted, and 
striped white. Queen of Queens, 
soft pink. Queen of Waltham, 
rosy-cherry. Red Dragon, cr. Rev. 
Alan Cheales, pure lake. Sala- 
mander, sc.-cr. Silver Queen, 
silvery-blush. Spenser, satin-pink. 
St. George, cr. T. B. Haywood, 
cr.-sc. Tom Wood, red. Triomphe 
DE Caen, velvety-purple. Waltham 
Standard, deep car. ; new. William 
Warden, pink. Xavier Olibo, 
velvety-black. 



(P- 136 

Japanese 

ALBANi,deep pink, sweetly scented ; 
4ft. Amiral Avellan, fine golden- 
yel. ; 4ft. Amy Shea, ruby-red, 
back of petals coppery ; 4ft. 
Antoinette, pure white ; 4ift. 



5.— ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS 

to p. 165). 



Baron Reicher, apricot-yel. ; 5ft. 
Baron Tait, clear yel. ; sJft. Belle 
DES Georges, rich rosy pearl ; 4ft. 
C. F. Payne, yel., shaded with red ; 
4|ft. Chas. Blick, rich yel. ; 6ft. 
Chas. Shrimpton, cr.-brown, 4jft. 



APPENDIX. 



ON CHRYSANTHEMUMS— 

Chatsworth, white, shaded with 
rose; 5ft. CoL. W. B. Smith, golden- 
bronze ; 5ft. Crown of Gold, deep 
yel. ; 5ft. ; late. Duke of York, 
deep silver-pink, ^^it. Eda Prass, 
pearly-pink; 5ft. Ella Curtis, golden- 
yel. ; 5ft. Emily Silsbury, pure 
white, 4ft. ; rather early. Euterpe, 
rosy-cerise ; 4ft. Fashion, yel. ; 4ft. 
■George Seward, deep orange ; 4ft. 
•Georgina Pitcher, soft lemon-yel. ; 
.4ft. Gertrude Salter, rich rosy- 
lilac. Helen Bloodgood, lovely 
clear pink ; 6ft. International, 
salmon-rose, 5^ft. John Shrimpton, 
cr.-scar. ; 3ft. King of Buffs, buff ; 
5ft. ; Lady Byron, ivory-white, 6ft. ; 
Lord Brooke, bronzy-yel. ; 4^ft. 
Louise, flesh - pink ; 3ft. Mary 
MoLYNEUX, lavender - pink, 6ft. 
Mlle. M. Hoste, soft white, faintly 
flushed purple ; 4ft. Modesto, bright 
yel. ; 5ft. MoNS. E. Andre, terra 
cotta; 4ft. Mons. Joanny Molin, 
dark cr. ; 6ft. ; late Mrs. C. Blick, 
pure white, 5ft. Mrs. E. W. Clark, 
deep purple, sweet scented, very late ; 
4ft. Mrs. J. Lewis, white; 5ft. 
Mustapha, white ; 4ft. Neva 
Teichmann, cr. ; 5ft. Oceana, pure 
yel.; 5ft. Pride of Stokell, cr., 
reverse of petals golden ; 5ft. 
Purple Emperor, purplish - maroon 
-4ft. Reine d'Angleterre, rosy- 
mauve ; 4ft. Rose Wynne, bluish ; 
■6ft. Secretaire Fierens, deep cr.- 
red ; 5ft. Simplicity, pure white ; 
5ft. Story of the Pacific, rosy- 
pink; 2^ft. Sunstone, apricot, very 
pretty ; ' 6ft. Surpasse Amiral, 
bright yel. ; 4ft. S. W. Childs, deep 
cr. ; 5ft. The Convention, terra 
cotta; 4ft. Thomas Wilkins, deep 
yel. W. Bardney, velvety-cr. ; 6ft. 
Western King, pure white ; 5ft. 
W. H. Lincoln, bright yel. ; 3ift. 
Wm. Seward, rich cr. ; 5ft. W. 
TOAVERS, canary - yel. ; 4ft. W. 
Tricker, soft rose ; 4ft. W. 
Wright, pink, shaded with yel. ; 5ft. 

Incurved 

Adele Biffi, light pink ; 3ft. Ami 
HoSTE, buff, shaded with car. ; 5^ft. 
Barbara, deep amber; 3^ft. Brook- 
LEiGH Gem, lilac ; 5ift. Bynum 
ScHiLTGES, dark red ; 5ft. Charles 
■Gibson, bronze-red ; 4ft. Countess 
■of Warwick, blush; 4^ft. C. S. 



Bates, pure old gold ; 4ft. Ernest 
Cannell, deep fawn ; 5ft. General 
Maurice, rose and cream ; 4^ft. Jar- 
din DES Plantes, deep orange ; 4ft. 
Lady Isabel, lilac-blush ; 6ft. L. M. 
DE LA Drome, golden - yel. ; 5ft. 
Madam Ferlat, white ; 4ft. Mama 
Perfection, pure white ; 3ft. Mdlle. 
Faure, creamy -white ; 5ft. Mrs. 
Airdree, white, shaded with rose ; 
6ft. Mrs. N. Davis, yel. ; 4ft. Mrs. 
N. Molyneux, ivory-white ; 4ft. 
Mrs. R. King, yel. ; 4ift. Mrs. 
S. Owen, reddi sh- brown ;" 6ft. Mrs. 
W. C. Egan, lilac-pink; 5ft. Mr. 
W. Harvey, creamy - white ; 4ft. 
Pearl Palace, pure white ; 4^ft. 
Robert Verdet, yel., shaded with 
red; 5ft. Rose Owen, rosy-pink ; 6ft. 
Violet Tomlin, purphsh-violet ; 6ft. 
W. Nash, yel. -bronze ; 5ift. Yvonne 
Desblane, pure white ; 4ft. 

Japanese (Early-flowering) 

Alex. Defour, deep purple ; 
2jft. Ambrose Thomas, cr. -purple ; 
3ft. Arthur Crepey, soft yel. ; 3ft. 
Bouquet ^stival, rosy-purple ; 2^{t. 
Bronze Prince, old gold; 3ft. 
Chevalier Ange Bandiera, rosy- 
pink; 3ft. Edith Rowbottom, 
canary-yel. ; 3ft. Francois Vuiller- 
MET, rosy-purple ; 2ft. Gloire de 
Mezin, chestnut-red; 4ft. Ivy 
Elphic, white, tinged with pink; 2ft. 
Ivy Stark, pale orange; 2ift. La 
Perle, pure white ; 2ft. Lutea, yel. ; 
3ift. Madame Gajac, mauve ; 2ft. 
Madame L. Collier, orange-yel. ; 
2ft. ; Madame Louis Lionnet, sal- 
mon-pink ; 2ift. Mdlle. Guindu- 
DEAU, pink; 2ift. Mdlle. Sabatier, 
purplish-cr. ; 4ft. Mrs. BuRRELL, soft 
yel. ; 2ift. Orange Child, deep yel. ; 

Pompon (Early-flowering) 

Blushing Bride, lilac ; 2Ut. 
Crimson Precocite, cr. ; 2ift. 
Dodo, canary-yel.; ift. Flora, 
golden-yel. ; i^ft. Illustration, 
blush-white; ijft. Little Bob, brick- 
red ; 2ft. Madame Gabus, lilac and 
white ; 2ft. Maud Pitcher, bronze- 
yel. ; 2ft. Mignon, deep yel.; i^ft. 
Mons. A. Herlant, red ; 2ft. Na- 
num, blush-white;. 2ft. St. Croats, 
pale pink; 2ft. White St. Croats, 
white ; 2ft. Yelloav Gem, yel. ; 2Kt. 

4 F 



II54 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



6.— ON BEDDING PLANTS. 

Summer Bedders (p. 169 to p. 183;. 



Begonia 

Bavaria, rosy-violet fl. Bertixii, 
bright vermilion fl. Carrierii, pure 
white fl. L'avenir, fl. reddish-sc, dbl., 
of Multiflora type, semperflorens 
Vernon, dark bronze 1., brilliant red 
fl. s. Zulu King, 1. very dark red ; 
fl. bright sc. Surpasse Datisi, dbl., 
very dark red fl. ; bronzy 1. 

Calceolaria 

Bijou, bronzy cr. fl., very free 
flowering. Canariensis, primrose- 
yel. fl. Crimson Queen, bright cr. 
fl. Invincible, dwarf compact habit ; 
very large fl. in enormous trasses, 
canary-yel. Prince of Wales, large 
bright cr. fl. RuGOSA, yel. ; ift. 

Gaillardia 

Addison, cr., edged with gold. 
George Kelwa y, large cr. gold-edged 
fl. James Kelway, very large dazzling 
sc. with gold edge. iSlR. Pitcher, 
deep fiery cr. with narrow gold edge. 
Oliver Wendell Holmes, richly 
coloured cr. and gold. Ormonde, cr. 
edged with yel. splendidissima 
Plenissima, dbl., cr. with gold edge; 
an excellent bedder. St. Blaise, 
blood-red, slightly edged yel. Vivian 
Grey, yel. -fringed fl. William Kel- 
way, large brilliant cr., gold-edged. 

Gaura 

Lindheimeri, long branched spilces 
of rose and white fl. ; 3ft. ; June to 
August. 

Heliotrope 

Bouquet Parfume, deep violet fl., 
white eyes. Ladi^ Molesworth, 
dark purple fl. La Lorraine, reddish- 



violet, yel. eye. ^Iadame A. Somer- 
set, light blue. Madame Bruant, 
bluish-mauve with white centre. 

Marguerite, or Paris Daisy 

Elegans, large white fl. with 

brownish-yel. centre. Feu d'Or, large 

golden-yel. fl. ; 2ft. Golden Gem, 

large pure yel. fl. Halleri, large 

white Daisy-like fl. Kelavay's Gem, 
dwarf, with shining yel. fl. Reve 
d'Or, vel. fl. 

Mimulus 

cupreus Prince Bismarck, rich 
deep velvety cr. fl. ; Gin. Fire King, 
fl. yel., margined fiery sc. Lewisi, pale 
purple; ift. ; June to September. 
Tillingi, fine golden-yel.; ift.; May 
to October. 

Pelargonium 

Can ij ace, rich deep cr. fl. 
Flamingo, sc. -shaded rose. James 
Kelavay", ynid sc., zonal. John 
Forbes, rich cr.-sc. fl. John Gibbons, 
orange-sc, zonal. Mrs. Holden, deep 
rose, upper petals blotched white. Mrs. 
Turner, purplish - pink ; vigorous. 
White Clipper, white ; free 
flowering. 

Petunia 

coMPACTA Rose Superbe, of bushy 
growth, brilliant rose-coloured fl. ; ift. 
Countess of Ellesmere, rose with 
white throat ; 9in. Dr. Daniel, cr. 
maroon, white throat. Eclipse, bright 
red with white edge. Hercules, ros)'^- 
lilac, veined violet. Mrs. S. Hibberd, 
white, striped from centre with maroon. 
Snowball, dwarf, satiny-white fl. 
Spitfire, bright purple-shaded cr. 



Sub-Tropical Bedd 

Abutilon 

BouLE DE Neige, white fl. Dar- 
wini majus, bright orange fl., deeply 
veined. D. tesselatum, 1. mottled 
Avith yel. Emperor, fl. rich purple. 
Lady of the Lake, rich pink fl. 
Selloavianum marmoratum, large 
Maple-like 1., mottled with bright 
yel. Yelloav Prince, rich golden- 
yel. fl. 



s (p. 183 to p. 191). 

Acanthus 

LONGiFOLius, large spilfes of pink 
fl. ; 2ft. to 3ft. ; June and July, mol- 
lis, heart-shaped 1., large fl. in long 
white spikes; 3ft. ; July to September. 
m. latifolius, a robust form of 
mollis, also knoAvn as lusitanicus. 
Niger, purplish-white ; shining green 
1. ; July and August. SPINOSISSIMUS, 
fl. rose, on large spike; 1 spiny, spines 



APPENDIX. 



SUB-TROPICAL BEDDERS— ct? 

white ; 3ift. SPINOSUS, fl. purplish ; 
3fc, to 4ft. 

Agave 

AMERICANA, 1. 30 to 40 in a rosette, 
glaucous-green, 3ft. to 4ft. long, with a 
dark brown point ; several varieties are 
grown. A. VARIEGATA, 1. dark green 
in centre, broadly margined with rich 
yel. FILIFERA, 1. 60 to 100 in a dense 
rosette, edges splitting off into wiry 
grey threads. Scolymus, 1. 20 to 30 
in a rosette, very glaucous, terminating 
in a sharp spine. VIVIPARA, 1. 20 to 
50, broad at middle, tapering to sharp 
point. YUCC^FOLIA, 1. 20 to 40, 
narrow and recurved, pale band down 
the centre. 

Aralia 

CHINENSIS, 1. leathery, woolly on 
both sides when young ; fl. white in 
terminal panicles ; 5ft. to 6ft. EDULis, 
1. lower ones pinnate, of three or five 
leaflets, hairy, spineless ; 4ft. to 6ft. 
SiEBOLDi, large dark green shining 1. 
SPINOSA, stem prickly, forming 
umbrella-like head ; 1. pinnate, 
deciduous ; 8ft. to 9ft. 

Canna 

Alphonse Bouvier, fine light red 
fl. Childsi, broad yel. petals, spotted 
with cr. ; 3ft. Duchess of York, 
pale yel., blotched with deep red, in 
lai-ge trusses. Victor Hugo, dark 
green 1. bordered with violet ; large 
reddish-sc. fl. 

Cordyline 

AUSTRALIS, 1. 2ft. tO 3ft. long, 

striated with numerous parallel veins ; 
stem stout, attaining a height of 30ft. 
or 40ft. in native country. INDIVISA, 
1. 2ft. to 4ft. long, narrow, tapering to 
a point, dark green. I. atro-pur- 
PUREA, dark purplish 1. I. Veitchii, 
sheath and back of mid-rib deep red. 
STRICTA, stem slender, attaining a 
height of from 6ft. to loft. ; 1. narrow. 

Datura 

CHLORANTHA FLORE PLENO^ large 

fragrant dbl. yel. fl. ; 2ft. ; August and 
September. Knightii, large dbl. 
white pendulous flowers, sanguinea, 
fl. solitary, tube orange-yel., green 
towards base ; 1. covered on both sides 
with soft white hairs ; 4ft. to 8ft. 



Dicksonia 

ANTARCTICA, Stem several feet high, 
surmounted by a head of long tri- 
pinnate 1. 

Dracaena 

CONCINNA, 1. narrow, with purplish- 
red margins. Draco, 1. long and 
narrow in a crowded head. GoLDiE- 
ANA, irregularly banded with dark 
green and silvery-grey, of a yellowish 
shade. 

Grasses (Tall) 

Arundo conspicua, fl. silky-white 
on large drooping racemes ; 5ft. to 7ft. 
A. DONAX, large compact panicles of 
reddish but ultimately white fl. Eri- 
anthus Ravenna, dense tufts of 
handsome violet-shaded 1. ; 5ft. to 6ft. 

EULALIA JAPONICA ZEBRINA, long 

narrow green 1., 3ft. long, with bars of 
yel. Gynerium argenteum, narrow 
glaucous-green 1., 5ft. long, forming 
dense tufts ; fl. whitish, in dense silky 
panicle. Zea Mays, 1. bi'oad and flat ; 
3ft. M. VARIEGATA, 1. Striped with 
white. 

Gunnera 

manicata, 1. several feet across, 
with long prickly leaf-stalks. SCABRA, 
large wrinkled 1. 

Heracleum 

GIGANTEUM, massive 1. ; spreading 
white fl. -heads; 6ft. to 8ft. setosum, 
1. ternate, five-lobed. SIBIRICUM, L 
pinnate, with rough hairs ; fl. yellowish, 
in large umbels ; 5ft. to 6ft. 

Hibiscus 

AFRICANUS MAJOR, fl. Cream with 
rich brown centre and golden stamens ; 
annual ; 2 ft. 

Musa 

ensete, 1. of a fine bright green, with 
broad bright cr. mid-ribs, several feet 
long. 

Palms 

Cocos Weddeliana, gracefully- 
arched 1., ift. to 3ft. long; pinnae 
(leaflets) long and narrow. C. FoR- 
tunei, half - orbicular leaves, i^ft. 
in diameter. Cham^^rops humilis, 
usually from 3ft. to 6ft., with heads 
of fan-shaped 1. Kentia Belmo- 
REANA, a well-known pinnate-leaved 
Palm. Latania borbonica, large 

4 F 2 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



SUB-TROPICAL BEDDERS— r^;, 
fan-shaped 1. Seaforthia elegans 

(PtYCHOSPERMA CUNNINGHAMIANA), 

large pinnate 1. 
Yucca 

ANGUSTIFOLIA, numerous narrow 
stiff L, r^ft. to 2ft. long; fl. stem 

Carpet Bedders 

Cerastium 

ALPINUM, 1. with silky hairs ; fl. 
white ; June and July. Biebersteinii, 
fl. white ; 6in. ; May to July. GRANDI- 
FLORUM, woolly green 1., profusion of 
snowy-white fl. pennsylvanicum, 1. 
silvery- white. 

Herniaria 

GLABRA AUREA, a handsome golden 
variety. 

Mentha 

AUREUM, yel. 1. ; 3in. 

Nepeta 

Glechoma variegata, dwarf trail- 
ing, with handsome variegated 1. 



3ft. to 4ft. long, terminating in 
a spike of greenish-white fl. fila- 
mentosa, creamy-white fl. ; 3ft. ; 
July and August. GLORIOSA, 1. 
in a dense rosette ; fl. white, 
tinged outside with rose ; July and 
August. 

(p. 191 to p. 203). 

Pyrethrum 

LACINIATU.M, a variety of the 
Golden Feather with beautifully cut 
golden 1. 

Sedum 

ACRE AUREL M, 1. and tips of shoots 
bright golden-yel. album, fl. white ; 
fl. stems pinkish. brevifolii'M, white 
fl. ; 3in. COM.MOLII, 4in. PALLIDUM, 
blue-grey 1. rupestre, 1. tinged Avith 
red. SPATHULIFOLIUM, yel. fl. ; 6in. 
terxatum, white fl. ; 6in. ; April and 
]SIay. 

Thymus 

ciTRiODORus AUREUS, golden-yel. 1. 



Spring Bedders (p. 203 to p. 208). 



Alyssum 

ALPESTRE, large golden-yel. fl. ; 
6in. ; April and May. gemonense 
SULPHUREUM, pale lemon-coloured fl. ; 
6in. ; suitable also for rockery. 
MONTANUM, yel. fl. ; 6in. ; June. 
saxatile variegatum, 1. variegated. 
SERPYLLIFOLIUM, fl. pale yel. ; 3in. to 
4in. ; April to June. 

Daisy 

Monster, very large fl., red, speckled 
white. Rob Roy (rubens), cr.-sc. fl. 
Rosy Gem, rose-coloured fl. Snow- 
flake, pure white. The Bride, large 
dbl. snowy-white fl. on long stalks. 

Iberis 

gibraltarica hybrida, fl. creamy- 
white, changing to rosy-purple ; ift. ; 
May and June. Little Gem, dwarf 



bushy habit ; fl. pure white. SEMPER - 
viRENS Snow Queen, compact habit ; 
large pure white fl. ; gin. umbel- 
LATA, fl. usually purplish but \'ery 
variable ; 6in. to I2in. ; May and June ; 
numerous varieties. 

Lamium 

AUREUM, golden-coloured fl. ; ift. 
Galeobdolon AUREUM, golden- 
bronzy 1. MACULATUM, 1. dark with 
white stripe ; fl. purple ; May and 
June. 

Phlox 

DIVARICATA (CANADENSIS), Soft 

blue ; ift. ; April to June, reptans, 
deep rose ; 6in. ; Apiil to June. SUBU- 
LATA Nelsoni, sheets of snowy- 
white fl. ; 6in. ; April and May. ViViD, 
brilliant rose, with car. centre ; 6in. 



7.— ON ANNUALS 
Hardy Annuals 

Adonis 

AUTUMNALIS, fl. blood-red, with dark 
centre ; ift. ; May. 



AND BIENNIALS. 

(p. 212 to p. 240). 

Argemone 

grandiflora, handsome glaucous 
1. ; fl. snowy- white, withlgolden centres; 



APPENDIX. 



HARDY ANNUALS— 

2ft. ; July. HuNNEMAXXii, golden- 
yel. ; 2ft. 

Asperula 

AZUREA SETOSA, light blue heads of 
sweet-scented fl. ; ift.; June to August. 

Athanasia 

ANNUA, yel. everlastmg fl. ; ift. ; 
July. 

Calandrinia 

GRANDIFLORA, greyish 1., rose- 
coloured fl. with golden anthers; ift. ; 
July and August. XITIDA, fl. rose- 
coloured ; 6in. 

Centaurea 

AMERICANA, rosy-lilac fl. ; i|ft. ; 
August. Cyanus cyanoides, rich 
blue, 6in. moschata, fl. -heads pui-ple ; 

2ft. 

Chrysanthemum 

CARINATUM ALBUM, fl. white, with 

inner ring of yel., and dark centre. C. 
ATROCOCCINEL'M, deep sc. c. aureum, 
bright yel., with dark centre. C. Pur- 
ple Crown, golden 1., fl, purplish-cr. , 
with inner ring of gold. c. Purple 
Queen, cr.-purple fl., with yel. ring ; 
about i^ft. ; middle of summer. C. 
Scarlet Prince, fl. velvety-sc, with a 
golden ring, semi-dbl. ; ift. c. W. E. 
Gladstone, rich cr. ; i Jft. Sib- 
THORPii, bright yel. fl. ; Uft. 

Clarkia 

elegans Purple King, dark car. ; 
2ft. E. Salmon Queen, salmon 
shaded with white. E. White Queen, 
pure white; 2ft. integripetala, Mrs. 
Langtry, rose, with broad white mar- 
gin ; ift.; many varieties. 

Coreopsis 

bicolor atrosanguinea, dark 
velvety maroon fl. B. grandiflora, 
golden fl., with sc. centre; 2ft. b.nana, 
)el. fl., with cr. centre ; ift. B. nigra 
NANA, velvety cr. BuRRiDGii, fl. 
dark sc., edged yel. ; 2ft. ; August. 

Eschscholtzia 

alba, creamy-white, californica, 
clear yel. Poppy-like fl. ; ift.; middle 
of summer. CROCEA, orange fl. Man- 
darin, orange-sc. and gold. tenl'I- 
FOLIA, primrose-coloured ; 6in. 



Gilia 

DICHOTOMA, large fl. of purest 
white ; Sin. INCONSPICUA, fl. violet 
or purple; gin. to I2in. ; August. 
LINIFOLIA, fl. white, solitaiy; ift. 
MULTICAULIS, fl. blue ; ift. 

Godetia 

General Gordon, deep rich cr., 
with light centre ; ift. GLORIOSA, 
deep blood-red. Marchioness of 
Salksbury, glowing cr., with broad 
white margin. Whitneyi Brilliant, 
rich glittering cr. ; ift. 

Gypsophila 

elegans alba, white ; i^ft. fas- 
TIGIATA, fl. pale red ; ift. ; July. PER- 
foliata, fl. pink; Uft. to 3ft.; 
July. REPENS, fl. white or pale rose ; 
6in. ; July to September. Steyenii, 
fl. white; ift. to 2ft. ; July. 

Helianthus 

Golden Bouquet, numerous small 
golden fl. ; 3ft, Hungarian Giant, 
large flowered , 7ft. to 8ft. macro- 
phyllus, dark green 1. ; yel. fl. ; 6fc. to 
7ft. uniflorus, golden-yel. fl., with 
dark centre ; 8ft, 

Malva 

CRISPA, fl. white, pale purple at tip ; 
2ft, to 5ft, ; June, mauritiana, fl. 
deep purple ; 4ft. to 6ft. ; June, zeb- 
RINA ATRO - RUBENS, rose-coloured, 
veined with dark cr. ; 3ft. ; July. 

Mig-nonette 

Gara way's White, fl. white, in 
long racemes ; Golden Queen, fine 
heads of fl. ; ift. Machet, dwarf and 
compact ; large fl. -heads of rich colour ; 
gin. Miles' Spiral, fine light- 
coloured heads ; ift. Parson's 
AVhite, pure white heads ; ift. Vic- 
toria Crimson, large heads of fine 
colour, deep red fl., compact ; bin. 

Omphalodes 

LINIFOLIA, greyish 1. ; pm-e white 
fl. ; 6in. ; June to August. 

Salvia 

Blue Beard, fl. in bluish-purple 
heads, useful for cutting; ift. ; July 
and August, hispanica, blue fl. ; ift. 
to 2ft. ; June. horminuM; fl. purple ; 
l^ft. ; June. 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



HARDY ANNUALS— twz/^/. 

Saponaria 

CALABRICA, fl. rose ; 6in. to I2in. ; 
August, C. ALBA, fl. white; 6in. 
Scarlet Queen, deep rosy-car, ; 6in. 
Vaccarl\, fl, red ; ift. to 2ft. ; July. 

Half-hardy Annuals 

Abronia 

ARENARIA MACROPHYLLA, Verbena- 
like beads of sweet-scented yel. fl, ; 
trailing ; July and August, UMBEL- 
LATA, rosy-pink fl., sweet-scented, u, 
GRANDIFLORA, deep rose-lilac fl. 

Alonsoa 

ALBIFLORA, fl. pure white, with yel. 
eye; i^ft. to 2ft." cauliata, fl. sc.; 
ift. ; June. LINIFOLIA GRACILIS, grace- 
ful 1. ; orarige-sc. fl. ; ijft. 

Amarantus 

BICOLOR RUBER, 1. cr.-sc. striped 
with green; ift. Henderi, fl. rosy- 
car. ; 3ft, SALICIFOLIUS, long graceful 
1, of bright orange-red ; 3ft. s. Prin- 
cess OF Wales, 1. car., orange-green, 
and bright yel. ; 3ft. sanguineus, fl. 
purple ; 1. blood-red ; July. 

Anag-allis 

LILACINA, lilac; ift. ; May. lini- 
FOLIA CGERULEA, intense blue ; 6in. 
L. Eugenie, blue fl., margined white. 
Parksii, red fl. 

Arctotis 

CALENDU LACE A, orange - coloured 
Daisy-like fl. ; 6in. ; July and August. 
C. SULPHUREA, fl. sulphur-yel. 

Aster (China) 

GoLD-QUiLLED Yellow King, in- 
tense yel. fl., full and beautifully quilled. 
Jeavel, globular fl. with incurved 
petals, of various colours; ijft. Lady- 
in-White, beautiful white fl., with 
overlapping petals ; I5in. Miniature 
Bouquet, good for edgings, 6cc. ; 
numerous small well-formed fl. of 
various colours ; gin. Ostrich 
Feather, of branching habit ; large 
snoAvy- white fl., with curled and 
twisted petals; ift. Ray, white and 
rose fl., having long thread-like quilled 
petals ; lift. Triumph, deep red, 
striped white ; of compact habit ; 
Paeony-like fl, ; ift,; also a white variety. 



Scabiosa 

Black King, dark cr, ; 2ft, Golden 
King, orange fl. Snowball, pure 
white dbl, fl, ; 2ft, Velvety Blood- 
red, Uft. 

(p. 240 to p. 255). 
Aster 

SINENSIS, beautiful single Aster, 
forming branching bushes; fl. 3in. 
across, of a delicate lilac, with yel. 
centre ; I5in. 

Aubergine 

Handsome in fruit ; white, sc., 
purple, ^-c. ; l^t. 

Bidens 

atrosanguinea, composite plant ; 
cr. fl. FERULiEFOLIA, fl, yel, ; 2ft. 
GRANDIFLORA, beautiful yel, fl, ; ijft. 
STRIATA, ray florets white, disk yel. ; 
2ft. to 3ft, 

Capsicums 

Ornamental plants, bearing sho%vy, 
handsome fruits, of various colours ; 
Uft, 

Cuphea 

CYANEA, fl, yel. and red; July. 
JORULLENSIS, fl. red ; 2ft. LANCEOL- 
ATA, fl, bluish; i^t; July, l, alba, 
white ; free flowering, miniata, 1, 
covered with M'hite bristles ; fl, sc. ; 
ift, ; June to September, pinetorum, 
fl, cr, or deep puiple; i^ft, ; July, 

Impatiens 

AMPHORATA, fl, pale purple, speclded 
with rose-red ; August, CANDIDA, fl, 
white ; 6in, hybrida nana, fl, pale 
rose to cr, ; ift. Roylei, branching 
heads of fl., white to purple ; 5ft. 
to 6ft. ; August. SULTANI, very free- 
flowering, sc.; ijft.; June to Sep- 
tember. 

Marig-old 

African quilled, ift. aurea 
FLORiBUNDA, golden-yel. ; gin. Legion 
OF Honour, large single fl., golden- 
3-el. with dark cr. blotches ; gin. 

Nicotiana 

ACUTIFLORA, fl. pure white ; ift. to 
2ft. COLOSSA, large deep green 1. ; 5ft. 



APPENDIX. 



HALF-HARDY ANNUALS— 

OIGANTEA PURPUREA, puiple fl. ; 4ft. 

SUAVEOLEXS, white fl., sweetly scented 
morning and evening; 2ft.; July and 
August. 

Palava 

FLEXUOSA, rosy-pink Mallow-like fl. ; 
ift.; June, rhombifolia, fl. rose- 
coloured. 

Perilla 

ATROPURPUREA LACINIATA, deep 

brown laciniated 1. ; useful for sum- 
mer bedding, ocymoides, fl. white ; 

July- 

♦ Phlox 

Drummoxdi Defiance, cinnabar- 
red ; 6in. D. Snowball, pure white ; 
•6in. D. Triumph, compact, brilliant 
sc. ; ift. 

Rhodanthe 

MACULATA, rosv-purple with cr. 
•circle; I ift. M. ALBA, silveiy- 
white fl. 

Ricinus 

borbonensis arboreus, large 
bronzy-green 1. ; 5ft. cambodgensis, 
1. purple ; 5tt. cinerascens, brown- 
purple 1., changing to dark green. 

GiBSONI ATROSANGUINEUS, 1. cr. ; 

5ft. MACROCARPUS, silveiT-bronze 
stems. 

Salpig-lossis 

Beauty, fl. cr. -brown, marked with 
orange. Dwarf Mixed, various 
colours ; i^ft. Princess Ida, fl. 
creamy-white, marked with gold. The 
Moor, rich copper-coloured fl. Violet 
■Queen, violet, marked with purple ; 

J2ft. 

Biennials (p. 

Beet (Beta) 

Brazilian, large handsome 1., suit- 
able for sub-tropical gardening; 2|ft. 
Drac.ena - leaved, with recm"\-ed 
cr. 1. The Shah, very dark cr. L 

Bromus 

briz-UFORMIS, ornamental grass, 
suitable for bouquets ; ift. 

Carduus 

^^Iarianus, green and white varie- 
gated 1. ; 3ft. TAURICUS {Onopordon 
tauru'itin), hne ornamental Thistle, 



Salvia 

cocciNEA, fl. sc.; ijft. ; July. 
PATENS, rich deep blue ; 2ft. 

Schizanthus 

CANDIDUS, fl. white ; 2ft. ; July. 

GRANDIFLORUS ALBUS, fl. white with 

yel. eye; i^ft. papiltonaceus, 
spotted purple and yel., shading to cr. ; 

lift. PYRAMIDALTS COMPACTA, violet- 

purple, spotted \vith black; i^ft. 
RETUSUS ALBUS, fl. white and yel. 

Torenia 

CORDIFOLIA, fl. pale blue, 4in. to 
Sin. ; July. flava, fl. yel., with 
puiple eye; 6in. to loin. Fournieri 
grandiflora, fl. sky-blue, spotted 
with indigo and yel. ; gin. F. AVhite 
Swan, large white fl. F. AVhite 
Wings, white, flushed with rose. 

Tropaeolum 

LoBBiANUM Brilliant, bright sc., 
with cr. throat. L. Cardinal, small 
dark sc. fl. L. Spitfire, bright fierj^ 
red ; graceful climbers. Tom Thumb 
Empress of India, brilliant cr., with 
rich velvety gloss ; dark green 1. ; gin. 
T. T. Ladybird, rich golden-yel. 
edged with rubv ; ifc. T. T. Terra 
CoTTA, ver}' show}^; fl. of a copper}"- 
buff"; ift. ; July to September. 

Zinnia 

GRANDIFLORA, fl. very large, with 
broad petals, of various colours; ijft. 
Haageana, single golden fl., striped 
with orange ; ift. ; July and August. 
H. FLORE PLENO, dbl.-flowered form; 

ift. H. PUMILA FLORE PLENO, fl. 

golden-striped orange ; 6in. Minia- 
ture PoMPONE, various brilHant 
colours ; 6in. 

255 to P- 259). 
having large woolly silver}- 1. and 
golden fl. ; 6ft. 

Leptosyne 

GIGANTEA, of quick gi'owth, yel. 
Sunflower-shaped fl. ; 4ft. to 6ft. 

Michauxia 

CAMPANULOIDES, branching spikes 
of white fl. tinged with rose, somewhat 
resembling Passion-fl. ; 3ft. ; July 
and August, laevigata, fl. white 
9ft. or I oft. ; August. 



I i6o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



* 



BIE'KyilA'LS—cofitd. 

CEnothera 

BIENNIS, handsome yel. fl. ; 4ft. ; 
July and August, bifrons, fl. yel. ; 

I^ft. GRANDIFLORA, vel. fl. ; 2ft. 

ODORATA, fl. at first yel.. turning 
reddish as they fade ; ift. to 2(1. ; 
April and May! TARAXACIFOLTA, fl. 
white. 

Papaver 

ALPINUM, fl. Avhite, yel., rose, &c., 
useful for rockwork ; 6in. ; middle 
of summer. Gariepinum, numerous 
light sc. fl. ; 3ft. nudicaule album, 
white fl. ; ift. N. miniatum, orange- 
red ; ift. 



Trachelium 

ca:RULEUM, sky-blue fl. ; 2ft.; 
August, c. album, white fl. 

Verbascum 

Blattaria, stem varj-ing from Sin. 
to 4ft. high ; fl. bright yel. Chaixii, 
dark green 1. ; bright yel. fl.. lilac 
stamens; 4ft. LiBANi, large yel. fl. ; 5ft. 
PANNOSUM. large grey 1. ; fl. yel. ; 6ft. 

Wallflowers 

Bedfont Giant, fl. ^-el. ; 1. dark 
green; ift. Golden King, early, 
golden-yel. ; i^ft. Old Gold, fl. clear 
yel., with dark cr. calyx; ift. 10 i^{t^ 
Scarlet Queen ; Uft. 



8.— ON HARDY HERE 

(p. 260 

Acanthus 

HiSPANicus, fl. white ; 2ft. ; August. 
mollis, large urnamentall. ; white fl. ; 
3 ft. 

Achillea 

Eupatorium, fl. -heads golden } el. ; 
3ft. ; millefolium roseum, fl. -heads 
rose-coloured; 3ft. mongolica, pure 
white single fl. ; i^ft. Ptarmica 
Snowball, pure white dbl. fl. ; eft. 
P. The Pearl, pure white dbl. fl. ; 
2ft. tanacetifolia, large heads of 
pale yel. fl. ; 2Kt. 

Aconitum 

autumnale, large lavender blue fl. ; 
3ft. to 4ft. ; late autumn. Braunii, 
fl. bluish-purple ; 4ft. ; July and 
August, decorum, fl. deep purple. 
JAPONICUM, fl. flesh-coloured ; 6ft. ; 
July to September. PYRENAICUM, fl. 
pale 3-el ; 3ft. to 4ft. 

Actaea 

alba, fl. white ; ift. to i^ft. ; May 
and June. RACEMOSA, fl. white in long 
racemes ; 3ft. SERPENTARIA, fl. white, 
amall, in long trusses ; 4ft. ; May and 
June. SPICATA fructu-rubro, small 
white fl., succeeded by bright coral- 
red berries; i|ft.; jNIay and June. 

Anchusa 

Barrelieri, fl. blue with white tube 
and yel. throat; ift. to 2ft.; Mav. 
B. FOLIA variegata, fl. blue ; 'l. 
blotched with gold. italica, rich 



CEOUS PERENNIALS 

p. 286). 

Gentian-blue fl. ; 3ft. : June to August. 
MYOSOTIDIFLORA, fine blue fl., throat 
yel. ; lit. ; July. 

Aquilegia 

CANADENSIS, fl. SC., tipped with 
green ; 2ift. C. NANA, deep sc. and 
yel. fl. ; ift. ccerulea lutea, large 
light yel. fl. nivea grandiflora, 
white semi-dbl. flowers. Skinneri, 
1. glaucous ; fl. orange-sc. with long 
spurs. 

Armeria 

CEPHALOTES ALBA, white; ift.; 
]May to August ; C. rubra, deep red 
fl. ; I ft. : May to July, dianthoides, 
fl. light pink; May and June. 
Laucheana, dense compact green 
tufts, small spikes of red fl. ; 6in.; ]S[ay 
to August. maritima, fl. pink or 
lilac ; 6in. to I2in. ; June to August. 
M. alba. fl. white. 

Arnebia 

echioides, fl. tubular, rich golden- 
yel., "«-ith five black spots, which 
graduall)- fade ; ift. ; April to July. 

Arnica 

Chamissonis, fl. -heads yel. : ift. 
MONTANA, orange-yel. ; gin. ; July and 
August. 

Asclepias 

INCARNATA, rosy-purple, fragrant : 
3ft. ; July. TUBERo'sA, fragrant, bright 
orange fl. ; 2ft. ; Juh\ 



APPENDIX. 



I i6r 



HliRBACEOUS PERENNIALS— C();z/^7. 



ON HARDY 
Aster 

CORDIFOLIUS, lavender-blue ; 2^ft. ; 
August and September, corymbosus, 
small creamy- white fl. ; iKt. formo- 
sissiMUS, rosy-lilac ; 4|ft. ; August 
and September. LixosYRis (Goldi- 
locks), flax-like 1. ; showy yel. fl. ; 2ft. ; 
July and August. n6v.*;-Axgll^: 
RUBER, cr. ; 4ft. ; September and 
October. N.-A. Willia:m Bowmax, 
violet-purple with golden-bronze disc ; 
3ft. ; September and October. Novi- 
Belgii Neptune, bluish-purple ; 
3jft. ; September and October. N.-B. 
Robert Parker, bluish-lilac with yel. 
centre ; 5ft. ; September and October. 
PANICULATUS, lavender ; 3ft. ; August 
and September. STELLATA, reddish 
shade ; 3ft. ; September and October. 
versicolor, white shading to rose ; 
3ft. ; August and September. 

Baptisia 

australis, racemes of showy blue 
Pea-shaped fl. ; 3ft. ; June and July. 
leucaxtha, fl. white in erect 
racemes ; 3ft. 

Boltonia 

asteroides, fl. flesh-coloured. Daisy- 
like; 2ft. to 4ft.; August. A. DECUR- 

RENS, pink Michaelmas Daisy-like fl. ; 
4ft. ; September and October, glasti- 
FOLIA, fl. pink; i^t. to 3ft.; Sep- 
tember. 

Buphthalmum 

GRANDIFLORUM, fl. -heads yel. ; i^ft. ; 
June to Septeinber. salicifolium, 
showy golden-yel. fl. ; 2ft. ; July to 
September. SPECIOSUM, massive 1. ; 
large orange-coloured fl.; 3ft. ; June 
to Septemoer. 

Caltha 

leptosepala, fl. white ; gin. ; May 
and June, palustkis flore plexo, 
suitable for moist places ; dbl. golden- 
yel. fl. ; 9in. ; April and iSIay. P. 
purpurascexs, purplish stems and 
yel. fl. RADICAXS bright yel. ; 6in. ; 
April and ]SIay. 

Campanula 

ALLIARIiEFOI.IA, fl. white ; 3ft. 
GLOMERATA ALBA, white; i^ft. ; May 
to July. GRANDis. bluefl.; 3ft.; May 
and June. lactiflora, fl. white, 
tinged blue; 2ft. to 4ft.; June and 
July, latifolia :nl\crantha, pur- 



ple ; 3ft. ; June to August. L. M. ALBA,, 
pure white fl. punctata, fl. white, 
spotted red on inner surface ;' i}jft. 

Centaurea 

ALBICANS, fl. white ; ifc. ; July and 
August. BABYLONICA, silvery-wliite 
1. ; Thistle-like heads of yel. fl. ; 6ft. ; 
July and August. Parlatorls, L 
silvery, deeply-cut ; 2ft. UNIFLORA, 
fl. heads purple; gin. to I5in. 

Centranthus 

RUBER, rose-coloured fl. in dense 
heads ; 2ft. ; May to August. R. 
ALBUS, fl. white. 

Chrysanthemum 

argenteum, fl. -heads white ; ift. ; 
July. LATIFOLIUM, large snow-white 
fl., yel. centres ; 2ft. ; July to October. 

LeUCAXTHEMUM GRAX'DIFLORUM, 

pure white fl. ; 2ft. L. Semi-Duplex, 
fl. with slender white petals in centre ; 
June to August. maximum fili- 
FORME or FIMBRIATUM, white thread- 
like petals ; 2ft. ; June to August. 

Chrysogonum 

YIRGIXIAXUM, bright golden fl. ; 
Ift. 

Cimicifug'a 

COKDIFOLIA, black stems ; spikes of 
white featliery fl. ; 3ft. to 4ft. ; August 
and September. JAPOXICA, featheiy 
white fl. ; 2ft. RACEMOSA, large glossy 
1. ; long graceful racemes of drooping 
white fl. ; 4ft. ; July to September. 

Codonopsis 

OVATA, bell-shaped blue fl., speckled 
white. 

Delphinium 

BRUXOXIANUM, purplish-blue, ^Nlusk- 
scented; 2jft. ; July. CASHMIRIAXUM, 
fl. lilac-blue ; l^ft. ; July. C. ALBUM, 
variety with white fl. elatum CCELES- 
TixuM, fl. hght blue; 3ft. graxdi- 
FLORUM ALBUM, fl. satiny white ; 2ft. • 
Zaltl, branching spikes of clear yeL 
fl. ; 2ft. ; July and August. 

Digitalis 

gloxinleflora, fl. yel. ; 3ft. g. 
ALBA, large Axhite fl. G. purpurea, 
purple-cr. spotted fl. GRAXDIFLORA, 
yel. ; 3ft. ; July and August. L^YI- 
GATA, fl. dull yel., with white lip : 2ft. 
to 3 ft. ; July. LAX ATA, small whitish 



I l62 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



OX HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIAL S—rt^;z/^/. 



fl.. netted inside vdih brown; 2ft.; 
July and August. 

Dracocephalum 

GEANDIFLORrM(ALTAICEXSEj,blue ; 

6in. ; July. Ruyschianum (argu- 
NENSE), fl. blue ; ijft. ; June to 
August. R. SUPERBUM, rich Gentian- 
blue fl. SPECIOSUM, fragrant, pinkish- 
blue fl. ; i^t. ; June to August. 

Echinops 

BANNATICUS (RUTHEXICUS), fl. blue ; 

3(t. ; July and August. RiTRO, curious 
hedgehog-like heads of blue fl. ; 3ft. ; 
July and August, sph.erocephalus, 
laciniated silver}- 1. ; heads of white fl. ; 
4ft. ; August and September. 

Eryng-ium 

aaiethvstixum, fl. metallic blue, 
stems blue; 2ift.; August. DICHOTO- 
MUM, blue fl., in round heads ; 32^ft. ; 
August and September. :srARiTi:MUM, 
silvery grey 1. ; pale blue fl. ; ift. ; 
July and August. planum, blue, 
Tound Thistle-like heads ; 3ft. ; July and 
August. 

Eupatorium 

ageratoides. heads of white 
Ageratum-like fl. ; 3ft. ; August and 
September. aromaticum (melis- 
SoideS), fl. white; 4ft. ; July and 
August. CAXNABixuM, fl. reddisli- 
purple ; 3ft.; July. PURPUREUM, fl. 
purple ; 3ft. to 5ft. ; August and 
September. 

Gaillardia 

Aurora, yel.. with orange-sc. disk. 
■Collixa, cr., with gold edge. James 
Kelway, dazzling sc., golden edge. 
^Iagiciax', orange-sc, with rich yel. 
border. Mr. Pitcher, fiery cr., bright 
yel. margin. St. Blaise, blood-red, 
■edged with yel. ViviAX Grey, large 
yel. Willia:^! Kelway, bright sc., 
"with golden edge. 

Geranium 

ARMEXUM, fl. purple-cr. with black 
veins ; 2ft. ; June and July. ExDRESSi, 
fl. bright rose ; 2ft. ; May to August. 
IBERICUM, fl. large purple-blue ; 2ft. ; 
June and July, saxguixeum, cr. ; 
ift. ; July. s. laxcastriexse, soft 
pink fl., veined purple, gin. Walli- 
GHiAXi;-:vr, large blue or purple fl. ; 
6in. ; June. 



Geum 

chiloense mixiatum, orange-sc. ; 
i^ft. ; July. reptaxs, yel. ; 6in. ; 
June and July. STRICTUM, striped ; 
ift. ; June and July. SYLVATICUM, 
yel. ; i^ft. ; April to August. 

Helenium 

autumxale pumilum. fl. yel.; ift.; 
August. Bigelovii, fl. yel. with 
brown disk ; 4ft. ; August and Sep- 
tember, striatum, deep orange, 
striped and blotched cr. ; 3ft. ; August 
and September. 

Helianthus 

GIGANTEUS, bright yel. fl. ; 5ft. to 
7ft. ; August and September, multi- 
florus Bouquet d'Or, fl. very dbl., 
rich golden yel. ; 4ft. RIGIDUS GRAXDI- 
florus, golden yel., with dark brown 
centre; 4ft.; July and August. 
r. Miss Mellish, large duplex fl., 
bright orange-yel. ; 4ft. ; August and 
September. R. SEMI-PLEXUS, hand- 
some golden-yel. semi-dbl. fl. ; 4ft. ; 
September and October. 

Helonias 

latifolia. suitable for damp situ- 
ations ; handsome purple fl. ; ijft. ; 
June and July. 

Heuchera 

AMERICAXA, fl. reddish ; i^ft. 
glabra, fl. white or pink ; ift. ; June 
and July. :micraxtha, fl. cream- 
coloured; 2 ft. 

Hieracium 

aurantiacum, heads of deep 
orange-coloured fl. ; ijft. ; May to 
August. YILLOSUM, fl. golden yel. ; 1. 
downy ; ift. 

Inula 

EXSIFOLIA, fl. yel. ; i^ft. ; July and 
August. GRAXDIFLORA, bold massive 
1. ; handsome yel. fl. ; 2ft. MOXTANA, 
fl. yel. ; ihft. ; August. 

Linum 

FLAYUM, fl. yel. ; ift. ; June to 
August. xarboxexse, drooping 
habit; mass of sky-blue fl. ; ift.; June 
to August. 

Lupinus 

ARBOREUS, terminal racemes of fra- 
grant bright yel. fl. ; 3ft. ; June to 



APPENDIX. 



ON HARDY HERBACEOUS PERENNIALS— cwz^^^?. 



August. POLYPHYLLUS ALBUS, fl. 

white. p. Purple King, fl. rich 
purple ; 3ft. 

Mertensia 

PULMONARIOIDES (VIRGINICA), 

Gentian-blue fl. in long arching cymes ; 
i^ft.; May and June, sibirica, fl. 
light blue; ijft. ; May. s. alba, fl. 
white. 

CEnothera 

FRUTicosA YouNGEi, masses of 
yel. fl. ; ift. ; June to August. F. Y. 
FLORE PLENO, fl. yel., semi-dbl. ; 2ft. 
■ODORATA, fl. yel. ; 2ft. ; June and 
July. VENUSTA, fl. golden-yel. ; ijft. 

Orobus 

LATHYROIDES, racemes of blue Pea- 
shaped fl. ; lift. ; June, multiflorus, 
fl. purple ; 2ft. ; July. NIGER, fl. dark 
purple ; 3ft. ; June, tuberosus, fl. 
purple ; ift. ; June and July. VERNUS 
ROSEUS, fl. rose ; ift. 

Paeony 

Candidissima, primrose-yel. with 
white guard petals, rose-scented. 
•Caroline Allain, blush pink. 
Delicatissima, flesh passing to blush- 
white. Duke of Wellington, yel. 
with white guard petals. Elegans, 
pink fl. Lady Leonora Bramwell, 
soft rose, large double fl. Madame 
Breon, peach-blossom colour, large 
and handsome. Madame de Galhau, 
beautiful soft pink. Mikado, large 
rose guard petals, central florets pink 
■edged with gold. Snowball, large 
snow-white flowers. Solfaterre, 
primrose-yel. passing to pure white. 

Pentstemon 

Charles Normand, hght rosy- 
purple. Emile Deschanel, brilliant 
:sc. Emperor, rich cr. with white 
throat pencilled with red. Jules 
Sandeau, rich rose-cr., white throat, 
pencilled rose. Madame A. Ster- 
ling, bright cr. with white throat. 
Mrs. F. Gordon, bright rose with 
white throat. Newbury Gem, deep 
rich cr. President Carnot, large 
purple flowers, white throat. William 
Robinson, rosy-sc. with white throat. 

Phlox 

Abundance, pale eye; i^ft. 
^URNOUF, brick-red, purple centre ; 



ijtt. CoEUR de Lion, bright car- 
mine, dark centre. Diadem, pure 
white ; ift. Dutreuil de Rhins, 
carmine ; 2^ft. Eclatant, salmon-sc, 
cr. centre ; ijfc. Embrasement, 
orange-sc. ; 3ft. Fanfluche, soft 
pink, flushed with rose ; ift. Grelu- 
CHETTE, bright purple, white centre ; 
Joconde, soft heliotrope, violet centre ; 
2ft. La Siecle, rosy-pink, white 
centre; ijft. La Vengeur, bright 
car. ; 2Kt. Liberte, salmon ; 2^ft. 
Madame Antoine Denis, blush- 
white, cr. centre ; i^ft. Marquis de 
Breteuil. pink, light centre; ijft. 
Pont-Biquet, fine rich cr. Regu- 
LUS, rose-salmon with light centre ; 
ijft. Snowdon, snow-white ; 2ft. 
Toreador, salmon-rose, dark centre ; 
lift. 

Potentilla 

Californie, large golden-yel. fl. 
Cendrillon, dark red ; 2ft. Chroma- 
tella, clear yel. Feu Follet, 
orange-sc, broad orange margin. 
L' Acheron, velvety-red and yel. 
Louis Van Houtte, very deep cr. 
Mont d'Or, large yel. Orphee, 
beautiful self-yel. Versicolor, cr.- 
sc, shaded orange. Vervianum, red- 
dish-yel. William RoLLissoN, glow- 
ing sc., sufi^used with orange. 

Pyrethrum 

Alfred Kelway, rich cr. Aphro- 
dite, large pure white fl. Beatrice 
Kelway, cherry-rose fl. Celia, very 
bright pink. Clemence, deep rich cr. 
Empress Queen, blush; fine broad 
petalled variety. Evelyn, bright 
pink. Figaro, rich cr. Florentine, 
blush-white. Leonard Kelavay, 
soft rose. Magician, bright pink 
tipped with gold. Melton, bright cr.- 
sc. Meteor, cr.-sc. tipped with white, 
Mr. Santley, bright cr. Ormonde, 
bright rich rose. Peter Barr, 
glowing cr. Queen Sophia, flesh 
colour. 

Ranunculus 

aconitifolius flore-pleno, pure 
white small dbl. fl. ; lift.; May and 
June. ACRis flore-pleno, yel. ; 21ft.; 
June and July, amplexicaulis, large 
pui'e white; ift.; April and May. 
ASIATICUS, fl. yellowish; gin.; May 
and June. gramineus, fl. yel. ; 1. 
blue-grey ; ift. ; April to June. 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ON HARDY HERBACEOUS PEREXXIALS— aw/^/. 



MONSPELIACUS, large yel. fl. ; ift. ; 
April and May. 

Rudbeckia 

Al'tu^^in Glory, fl. rich yel. with 
deep bronze central cone ; 5ft. ; Sep- 
tember and October. Golden Glow, 
fl. double, bright yel. ; 5ft. lacinl\ta 
GRANDIFLORA, large clear yel. fl.; 5ft. ; 
August and September. PURPUREA, 
reddish-purple; 4ft.; September. 

Salvia 

GRANDIFLORA, fl. blue ; 2ft. ; July 
and August, pratensis, bright violet ; 
2ft. ; June to August. P. ROSEA, 
fl. rose-coloured; 2ft. Verbenaca, 
fl. violet ; i^ft. to 2ft. ; July and 
August. 

Scabiosa 

caucasica, lilac-blue; iKt. ; June 
to September, c. ALBA, pure white 
fl. Columbaria latifolia, fl. rose- 
lilac ; 3 ft. GRAMINIFOLIA, fl. pale 
lilac ; ift. to i^t. ; June to September. 
LUTEA, light yel. ; 3ft. ; July to Sep- 
tember. OCHROLEUCA, fl. sulphur- 
yel. ; 2ft. ; July to September. 



Silphium 

LACINIATUM, fl. yel. ; 3ft. ; July. 
PERFOLIATUM, large 1. ; bright yel. fl. ; 
4ft. ; June to September, scaberinum, 
fl. yel. ; 4ft. ; August to October. TRI- 
foliatu:m, fl. bright yel. ; 4ft. ; August 
and September. 

Thalictrum 

ANGUSTi folium, fl. pale yel. ; 3ft. ; 

June. AQUILEGIFOLIUM ALBUM, fl. 

white ; 4ft. A. PURPUREUM, fl. purple. 
FLAVUM, fine-cut 1. ; yel. fl. ; 4ft. ; 
July and August, minus affine, fl. 
pale yel. ; ift. ; June and July. 

Valeriana 

officinalis, fl. pink ; 3ft. ; June. 
Phu aurea. young 1. bright golden- 
yel ; white fl. ; 2ft. ; August. 

Veratrum 

album, massive 1. ; white fl. ; 3ft. ; 
June and July. A. Lobelianum, fl. 
greenish-white ; 4ft. ; June to August. 
Maackii, fl. dark purple ; 2ft. 
NIGRUM, blackish-purple fl. ; 2ft. to 
3ft. ; June to August. yiride, fl. 
greenish; 4ft.; June to August. 



9.-ON 

(P- 



Acaena 

argentea, fl. bro^^Tl; 6in. 
myriophylla, bri 



August. 

fern-like 1. ; 6in. pulchella, fl. 
spicuous; 1. bronze 



June to 
p-ht lire en 
incon- 

a creeping species. 



Ajuga 

genevensis, flesh-coloured ; gin. ; 
June to September. G. variegata, 
beautifully-coloured 1. reptans, blue ;' 
6in. ; May. R. atropurpurea, 1. dark 
purple; fl. blue. R. YARIEGATA, 1. 
w^hite vai legated. 



Androsace 

FILIFORMIS, fl. white; ift.; May. 
foliosa, heads of rose-coloured fl'.; 
July. Laggeri, fl. pink ; March. 
LANUGINOSA Leichtlini, fl. rose. 

Campanula 

Erinus, pale blue starry fl. fra- 
GILIS, pale blue ; pin. ; JuIy and August. 
isophylla, traihng habit ; bright 
blue fl. ; 6in. ; June to September. 



4in. 
4in. ; 



; May 
July. 



ROCK PLANTS 

287 to p. 302). 

PORTENSCHLAGIANA, blue 

to August. PUMILA, blue ; 
p. ALBA, pure white ; 4in. 

Cheiranthus 

Allioni, fl. yel. ; gin. 
June. ALPINUS, heads of fragrant pale 
yel. fl. ; ift. ; May to August. A, 
Marshalli, fl. orange - yel ; 6in. 
Harpur Crewe (Golden Drop), fl. 
dbl. yel. ; gin. mutabilis, purple fl., 
changing to bronze, ift. 



]Mav and 



Chrysanthemum 

CATANANCHE, fl. heads yel. ; 4in. to 
bin. CAUCASICUM^ small white Daisy- 
like fl. ; 3in. 

Coronilla 

cappadocica iberica, trailing ; 
bright yel. Pea-shaped fl. ; deep green 1. 

Crucianella 

STYLOSA, neat trailing ; pink fl. ;: 
gin. ; July to September, 
fl. rosv-crimson. 



s. Brilliant^ 



APPENDIX. 



I165 



ON ROCK PLANTS— confd. 

Cyananthus 

IXCANUS, fl. sky blue ; 3in. to 4in ; 
August. LOBATUS, prefers a damp, 
peaty soil ; large blue fl. ; bin. ; August. 

Dianthus 

ARENARIUS, fl. wliite with pink eye, 
fimbriated ; 6in. cruentus, fl. blood- 
red ; I ft. DELTOIDES, rose-coloured ; 
6in. ; June and July. D. ALBUS, 
white fl. 

Epimedium 

MACRANTHUM, yel. ; ift. ; May and 
June. MusscHiANUM, fl. dull white ; 
May. NiVEUM, small white fl. ; ift. 
N. ROSEUM, fl. rose-coloured. PINNA- 
TUM, fl. bright yel. ; ift. ; May and 
June. 

Erig-eron 

GLAUCUS, blue fl. ; ift. ; July and 
August. RoYLEi, fl. lavender-blue ; 
6in. to I2in. ; July. 

Erodium 

cham.*;dryoides (Reichardt), fl. 
white ; 4in. ; July. Hymenodes, fl. 
white, veined pink; 9in. ; July. ma- 
CRADENUM, fl. pale violet ; 6in. to 
I2in. ; June and July. Manescavi, 
fl. purplish-red; ift. ; June to August. 

Gentiana 

Andrewsii, clusters of purplish-blue 
fl. ; March to June, cruciata, fl. dark 
blue; 6in. ; June and July. DE- 
CUMBENS, fl. blue ; ift. ; June and 
July. LUTE A, suitable also for the 
border; whorls of yel. fl. ; 3ft.; June 
and July, tibetica, fl. straw-coloured, 
in clusters ; ift. ; August. 

Globularia 

NANA, fl. -heads bluish, stem creep- 
ing. TRICHOSANTHA, olive-green 1. ; 
globular heads of blue fl. ; 6in. ; June 
and July, vulgaris, fl. bright blue ; 
6in. to I2in. 

Hacquetia 

Epipactis, bright yel. fl. ; 3in. to 
6in. ; April and j\Iay. 

Hutchinsia 

ALPINA, corymbs of snow-white fl. ; 
3in. ; April to June. 

Jasione 

perennis, dwarf compact tufts, 
heads of light blue fl. ; ift. 



Lewisia 

rediviva, tufts of long narrow 
fleshy 1. ; fl. varying from rose to white ; 
2in. across, 3in. high; middle of 
summer. 

Linnaea 

BOREALis, trailing evergreen ; rose- 
coloured bell-shaped fragrant fl. ; May 
and June. 

Lysimachia 

NUMMULARIA, traihug, yel. fl. ; June 
to August. N. AUREA, golden 1. 

Mentha 

Requieni, dense green carpet of 
very fragrant 1. 

Ourisia 

COCCiNEA, shady situation, clusters 
of drooping sc. fl. ; gin.; June and July. 

Platycodon 

GRANDIFLORUM, deep blue fl. ; i^ft ; 
June to August, g. album, pearly- 
white fl. g. Mariesii, fl. deep blue ; 
ift. ; june to August. 

Pratia 

ANGULATA (LOBELIA LITTORALIS), 

dwarf trailing plant, with white fl. 

Pulmonaria 

MOLLIS, 1. blotched and speckled 
with white ; blue fl. ; gin. ; May and 
June. TUBEROSA, fl. pink ; gin. ; May. 

Saponaria 

OCYMOIDES, numerous rosy-cr. fl. ; 
6in. ; July and August. O. splendi- 
DISSIMA, fl. deep rosy-crimson; 6ni. 

Saxifrage — Encrusted 

AizooN, white ; gin. ; May and June. 
C.^SIA, resembling silvery moss, 
with pale yel. fl. ; 6in. ; May and June. 
CRUSTATA, white ; 6in. ; June. 
LANTOSCANA SUPERB A, panicles of 
large snow-white fl., spotted cr. ; ift. ; 
May and June. Macnabiana, white, 
spotted cr. ; 2ft. ; June and July. 

— Mossy 

C^.SPiTOSA, cream ; 6in. ; April and 
May. Maweana, large pure white 
fl. ; May. 

— Oppositifolia 

ALBA, pure white fl., creeping habit. 
Splendens, sheets of rosy-cr. fl. 



ii66 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



OX ROCK PLANTS— a^/zA/. 

Saxifrag-e ( coiitd.) — Various 

APICULATA, primrose-yel. fl. BUR- 
SERIANA, pure white fl. on sc. stems. 
SANCTA, rich golden-yel. fl. 

Sedum 

Eaversii, purplish-lilac ; 4111. ; June. 
PALLIDUM, blue-grey 1., rosy- white fl. 
RUPESTRE, fl. deep yel., 1. tinged with 
red ; 4in. ; June and July, sexangu- 
LARE, yel. ; 6in. ; July. 

Sempervivum 

CALIFORNICUM, green tipped with 
brown, fiimbkiatum, purple; 6in. ; 
July and August. PoWELii (cobweb 



variety), creamy-white ; Gin. ; June and 
July. TRLSTE, dark red-bronze 1. 

Thymus 

AzoRicrs, fl. purple ; 3in. ; July. 
Cha]m.*;drys moxtaxus, fl. purplish. 
C. M. ALBUS, white ; 4in. ; June to 
August. Serpyllum, rosy-purple ; 
4in.; July. s. albus, white fl. s. 
COCCIXEUS, fl. brilliant crimson. S. 
LANUGINOSUS, light purple fl. ; June 
to August. 

Waldsteinia 

GEOIDES, fl. yel. ; 6in. ; March to 
June. TRIFOLIA, bright yel. fl. ; 6in. ; 
^lay and June. 



10.— ON HARDY BULBS AND TUBERS 



(P- 



303 



Brodiaea 

BridGESII, purplish - rose, light 
centre, californica, variable as to 
colour. CAPITATA ALBA, pure white. 

CONGESTA, lilac. PEDUNCULARIS, 

porcelain- white. PuRDYi, rose-purple. 
Calochortus 

AIMCENUS, rose. APICULATUS, hght 
yel. Jr RASERi, dark blue. Lyoxi, white 
or rose, spotted black. MACROCARPUS, 
silvery-hlac, dark centre, pulchellus, 
yel. splendens, lilac, s. atrovio- 
LACEUS, purple, dark red spot. 

Colchicum 

AUTUMNALE ALBUM-PLENUM, white, 

dbl. BivoN.q£, rosy-lilac. Sibthorpit, 
rosy-pmple, chequered. SPECIOSUAI 
RUBRUM, purplish-rose. VARIEGATUM, 
rose-purple, chequered. 

Crocus 

ASTURicus, purplish-lilac, a. atro- 
PURPUREUS, dark purple. A. azureus, 
blue. Hadriaticus, pure white, and 
its variety chrysobelonicus. Salz- 
MANXi, lilac. SATivus Cartwright- 
lAXUS, lilac, sc. stigma, stellaris, 
orange, dark purple featherings. 

Fritillaria 

ar^^iena, golden yel. citrix^a, 
green, shaded citron, delphix^exsis 
Burn ATI, dark brown. d. Mog- 
gridgei, yel. pallidiflora, pale yel. 
PERsiCA, dull brown. pyrexaica. 



to p. 355)- 

plum-coloured, with yel. inside. 
RUTHEXiCA, blackish. Walujewi, 
deep red inside, silveiy-grey outside. 

Galanthus 

FosTERi, broad 1. and long white 
fl. latifolius, broad 1. xiyalts 

OCTOBRENSIS. PLICATUS, 1. plicate. 



Hyacinths 

Single Blue — CHARLES DiCKEX'S, 

Czar Peter, Graxd Lilas, Kixg 
of the Blacks, The Sultax, and 
William I. 

Double Blue — Blocksberg, 
Charles Dickexs, and Laurexs 

KOSTER. 

Single Red — Cardixal Wise:man, 
Charles Dickexs, Kixg of the 
Belgiax"^s, Lord Derby, and Solfa- 
terre. 

Double Red — Kohinoor, Lord 
Wellixgton, and Princess Louise. 
Single White — Alba Superbissima , 

BaROXESS VAX TUYLL, SXOWBALL, 

and White Perfection^. 

Double White — Edisox, Prince of 
"Waterloo, and Princess Louise. 

Single Yell07C' — KlXG OF THE YEL- 
LOWS, Obelisk, and Primrose Per- 

FECTIOX. 

Iris — English (I. Xiphiuiii) 

Blaxchefleur, white, pink tinge. 
Graaf Bentinck, cr. and white. 
King of the Blues. Mont Blaxc, 
pure Avhite. Vainqueur, lavender, 
violet spotted. 



APPENDIX. 



ON HARDY BULBS AXD TUB^KS—co^ztd. 



Iris ( contd.) — Spanish ( I. Xiphio- 
ides ) 

Avalanche, white, golden - 
blotched. Catherixa, deep blue, 
white, and orange. Golden King, 
deep yel. Lemon Queen, light yel. 
Snoavball, pure white. The Moor, 
puiple, brown, and orange. Thunder- 
bolt, purple and brown, orange 
blotch. 

— Bulbous and Tuberous Species 

assyrica, white, atrofusca, dark 
red and brown, black veinings. atro- 
PURPUREA, dark maroon. BoiSSiERi, 
purple, yel. blotch. CAUCASICA, hght 
yel.; sunny sheltered spots. FLAVISSIMA 
Blondovii, light yel. Gatesii, 
creamy - white and rose ; robust. 
Helena, bright lilac and purple, dark 
blotch and veinings. longitana, 
shades of blue ; sunny sheltered spots. 
SINDJARENSIS, white and deep bhie, 
crested ; early spring. 

Ixia 

AZUREA, blue, violet centre. Con- 
queror, yel., red shadings, Crater- 
oiDES, rich sc. Emperor of China, 
deep yel., black centre. Erubescens 
major, deep pink, black centre. Vul- 
can, orange-red, black centre. 

Kniphofia 

Pfitzeri, orange-sc. Saundersi, 
deep red, tipped yel. Sulphurea, sul- 
phur-yel. TuCKii, bright red, fading 
to yel. 

Lilium 

AlexandRyE, -white ; dwarf hybrid. 
AUR„A.TUM platyphyllum, a broad-1. 
richly-spotted variety. A. rubro-a^it- 
TATUM, a red-banded variety of the 
well-known typical plant, canadense 
FLAVUM, yel., spotted black. Han- 
SONI, deep yel., spotted cr. HuM- 
BOLDTii Bloomerianum, deep yel.. 



purple tips. JAPOXICUM Colchesteri,, 
pale yel. inside, deep brown outside.. 
LONGIFLORUM, pure white, trumpet- 
shaped. POMPONIUM, bright sc. ; early- 
flowering. TESTACEUM, apricot, sc.. 
anthers ; very fragrant. 

Muscari 

AZUREUM, light blue; xery early.. 
COMOSUM, deep blue, in tassel-like 
heads. Heldreichii, deep blue, white 
mouth. MOSCHATUM FLAVUM, yel. ; 
fragrant. NEGLECTUM MAJUS, bluish- 
black ; early. 

Narcissus — Trumpet Daffodils 

Yelloiv — Captain Xelson, Golden 
XuGGET, Golden Spur, Henry 
Irving, Johnstoni, Maximus, P. R. 
Barr, Shakespeare, and Willik 
Barr. 

White- Winged — Empress, Gran- 
Dis, Princeps, and Tuscan Bonnet. 

Wliite and Sidphiir — ALBICANS, 
j\L\RCHIONESS OF LORNE, PRINCESS. 

Ida, and \V. P. Milner. 

— Incomparabilis 

Autocrat, Leedsii, Queen Bess^ 
Sir Watkin, and Stella. 

— Barrii 

coNSPicuus, General Murray^ 
Golden Mary, and Orphee. 

— Leedsii 

Agnes Barr, Burbidgei, Duchess. 
OF Brabant, Falstaff, John Bain, 
Minnie Hume, Mrs. Langtry, 
Palmerston, and Vanessa. 

— Poeticus 

grandiflorus, 
ISIarvel. 



ornatus, and 



— Polyanthus 

Adoxia, Bazelaianx Major, 
Charles Dickexs, and Scilly Isles. 
White. 



13.— ON ORCHIDS 

(p. 572 to p. 623). 

C, cool ; I, intermediate ; s, stove or hot-house ; c-i, cool-intermediate ; w-i, warm- 
intermediate ; X, hybrid. The descriptive details apply to the flowers. 

white and pale rose ; fragrant, ma- 
CULOSUM (S), white and rose-purple; 
fragrant. QUIXQUEVULXERUM (S), 
white, with five tips of cr.-purple. 
rubrum (s), rosy-purple; fragrant. 
SUAVISSIMUM (S), creamy-yel., spotted 



(c), 



orange-sc. 



race- 



Ada 

AURAXTIACA 

mose. 
Aerides 

HOULLETIAXUM (s), creamy-v/hite 
and rose-pink; fragrant. LOBBII (S), 



ii68 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ON OKCU.lI)S—co;ifd. 

Avith brown-pmple. yaxdari\m (s), 
white ; 1. terete. 

Angraecum 

ARCUATUM (S), white; night-scented: 
BILOBUM (S), white, on a reddish-brown 
pedicel ; night - scented. Chaillu- 
ANUM (s), white, brown at base of 
ovary; night-scented. FOURNIKRI- 
ANUM (S), white; night - scented. 
HYALOIDES (s), white ; very fragrant. 

Brassia 

BRACHiATA (i), pale green, spotted 
dark brown. CAUDATA ( i ), yel., barred 
brown, spotted greenish-brown. Lax- 
CEANA (i), bright yel., blotched deep 
brown, sometimes red. Laavrenceaxa 
(i), bright yel., spotted cinnamon and 
green; fragrant, maculata (i), sepals 
and petals yel., blotched brown; lip 
white, spotted brown and pui-]3le. 
TERRFCOSA (i), green and white, 
spotted light brown. 

Bulbophyllum 

BARBIGERUM (W-i), deep brown, 
■covered dark purple hairs, moving at 
the slightest distm-bance. Dearei (I ), 
pale greenish-yel. and purple. LoBBli 
(I), pale yel. 'maculatem (i), green, 
spotted brownish-puiple. RETICULA- 
TUM (I), greenish-white, striped and 
spotted pm-ple. saltatorum (i), 
greenish-brown, siamexse (i), pale 
yel., striped and lined purple. 

Burlingtonia 

CANDIDA (I), white; veiy fragiant. 
decora (i), white, flushed and spotted 
pink. 

Calanthe 

BELLA (x, s), white and rose-pink. 
■GiGAS (X, s), large, white and purple. 
-Regxieri (S), white and rosy-pink. 
TuRNERi (s), white. VErrcHii (S), 
bright rose, white disk. V. ALBA (s), 

white. VESTTTA RrBRO-OCI'LATA (S), 

white, deep purple disk. v. lutea (s), 
white, yel. disk. v. gigantea (s), 
white, cr. disk ; plant very large : rare. 
AViLLiAiM Murray (s)', Avhite and 
purple. 

Catasetum 

barbatum(i), green, blotchedpurple; 
"lip greenish-pink, having a dull white 
bearded fringe. Buxgerothii (i), 
Avhite; very fragrant. Callosum (i), 



dull brownish suffusion on a yellowish 
ground, cristatiai (i), dull green, 
crested lip. FniBRiATUM (i), yel.- 
green ; very fragrant. maculatum 
(I), green, spotted pui-ple. pilatlm 
( I ), large, almost white ; closely allied 
to, if not identical with, C. Buxge- 
rothii. 

Cattleya 

AcLAXDi.E (I), sepals and petals 
brown and pale yel., lip deep purple; 
fragrant. amethvstoglossa (s), 
rosy-lilac, spotted pink, lip cr. -purple ; 
fragrant. BICOLOR (i), bronzy-green, 
lip rosy-purple. Bowrixgiaxa (i), 
rosy-purple, lip deeper puiple. CITRIXA 
(I), bright lemon-yel. ; highly fragrant. 
DowiAXA (I), creamy-yel., lip cr.- 
purple, striped gold ; fragrant. 
GUTTATA (I), greenish-yel., spotted 
cr., lip white, stained with puq^le. 
intermedia (i), blush-white, lip 
cr.-purple and white. Luddemaxx- 
lAXA (I), pale lilac, lip white, yel. and 
cr. ; fragrant. Rex (I), creamy-yel., 
lip yel., puiple, witri darker veins. 
Schrceder.e (i), blush-rose, lip with a 
darker suffusion of rose in front and yel. 
at base : fragrant. Skixxerii ( i), rosy- 
puiple, lip shading to white at base. S. 
ALBA (I), white. SUPERBA (s), deep 
rose-purple and cr. ; xevy fragrant. 
VELUTIXA (I), yel. spotted purple, lip 
yel., violet, and cr. Warxerii (i), 
deep rose, lip cr.-purple, yel. at the 
base, fragrant. WarsceWiczii (i), 
deep lilac, lip rich cr., yellow blotches 
on side lobes ; fragrant. 

There are many hybrid Cattleyas 
derived from the inter-crossing of the 
various species. These generally par- 
take of the intermediate characteristics 
of the parents. 

Chysis 

AUREA (i), yel., lip marked cr. ; 
fragrant. bractescexs (i), white, 
yel. blotch on lip ; fragrant. Chel- 
soxii (I), Xankeen-yel., rosy blotch 
at the apex of the sepals and petals ; 
lip bright 3-el., reddish-brown spots and 
markings. L.EVis (i), yel., sc.-cr. 
markings on the lip. 

Cirrhopetalum 

AURATUM (w-i), straw-coloured, 
striped cr. and yel. Cu.MiX'Gil (W-i), 
green and reddish-puiple. Medus.e 



APPENDIX. 



ON ORCHIDS— ro72^^. 

(i), pale straw-coloured, spotted pink. 
PICTURATUM (I), purple and pale 
greenish-yel. strangularium (w-i), 
yel, and purple. tripudians (ij, 
brown, purplish-white. 

CcElog-yne 

CRISTATA ( i), white and a el. 

C. HOLOLEUCA (l), white. C. 

Lemoniana (i), white and pale lemon- 
yel. Dayana (i), white and brown. 
Massangeana (i), creamy-yel. and 
brown. OCELLATA (i), white and yel. 
PANDURATA (s), pale green, black 
marblings on lip. tomentosa (i), yel.- 
rose and brown. Veitchii ([), white. 

Cycnoches 

pentadactylon (s), yel. -green and 
chocolate ; fragrant. 

Cymbidium 

CI'PERIFOLIUM (i), pale green, 
brown and white. Devonianum (i), 
brown and purple. EBURNEO- 
LowiANUM iX, I), creamy-yel., purple 
on hp ; fragrant. GRANDIFLORUM (l), 
pale green, brown and white ; fragrant. 
LowiANO-EBURNEUM (x, i), creamy 
white, purple in front of lip. Low- 
ianum(i), green, yel., and purple. L. 
CONCOLOR (I), pale greenish-yel. TIG- 
RINUM (i), green, white, and brown 
(dwarf habit). Winnianum (x, i), 
white and brown. 

Cypripedium 

^SON (x, I), white, yel., and brown ; 
lip highly polished. Annie Measures 
(x, I), white, rose, purple, and brown. 
Aphrodite (x, i), white, suffused rose. 
Areti (x, I), yel., green, and white, 
spotted brown. Argus (s), green, 
purple, white, and rose, blackish-purple 
spots. ASHBURTON^ (x, i), white, 
green, and brown, dark brown spottings. 
Ayltngii (x, I ), white and rose, minia- 
ture brown spots. barbatum (s), 
white, purple, and purple-brown. 
Behrensiana (x, I), green, white, 
purple, and brown, bellatulum (i), 
white, spotted purple. B. album (i), 
creamy-white. Bookerii fx, i), white, 
green, purple, and brown. Calypso 
(x, I), white, rose-purple, green, and 
brown. Carrierii (x, i), green, 
w^hite, and purple. Ceres (x, i), white, 
rose-purple, and brown ; very fine. 
Chamberlainianum (s), yel., brown, 
and rose-purple. Charles Canham 



(x, I), white, green, and rosy-purple, 
dark brown spots. Charles Rick- 
man (x, i), white, rose, and deep 
purple, dark spots. Charles WORTH I 
(i), deep rose, white, and brown. CILIO- 
LARE (s), pale green and purple, darker 
purple spots. Clinkaberryanum 
(x, I), white, green, and deep purple. 
CONCOLOR (i), yel., spotted brown. 
CowleyanUxM (x, i), white and deep 
rosy-purple. CuRTisii (s), pale green 
and brown purple. Dayanum (s), 
pale green and light brown. Dibdin 
(x, i), white, green, and two shades 
of brown. Druryi (s), yel. and 
purple. Edwardii (x, i), white, 
green, purple, and deep brown, 
Euryale (x, I), white, green, purple, 
and deep brown. euryandrum 
(X, i), white, green, purple, and dark 
brown. ExCELSiOR (x, i ), white, green, 
and brown, dark brown spottings. 
ExuL (i), white, yel., and brown. 
Fairieano-Lawrenceanum (X, I), 
white, deep purple, and brown. 
Germinyanum (x, i), a most dis- 
tinct variety, heavily suffused rose- 
purple. GIGAS (x, i), white, brown, 
and purple ; very fine. Godefroy^ 
(X, 1) (Nat. Hyb.), white, thickly 
covered purple spots. Godseffianum 
(x, I), green, white, and brown, purple 
suffusion. Harrisianum (x, i), white, 
brown, and deep purple. H. superbum 
(X, i), a superior form to the type. 
Haynaldianum (s), white, brown, 
and rose-purple. Hera (x, i), white, 
green, and brown, beautifully spotted. 
H. Adrastus (x, i) and H. Euryades 
(x, I) have larger spotted segments. 
hirsutissimum (i), green, purple, and 
brown. Indra (X, i), white, green, 
brown, and yel. insigne (c), varying 
from white and pale yel. to pale green 
and purple ; one of the most useful. lo- 
GRANDIS (x, I), white, green, and brown, 
spotted purple. J. H. Veitch (x, w-l), 
white, brown, green, and purple ; 
very rare.- Juno (x, i), white, suffused 
purple, green, and brown. Lachmee 
(X, I), white, green, brown, and purple. 
Lathamianum (x, i), white, green, 
and brown ; highly-polished lip. Law- 
rebel (x, i), white and deep rose- 
purple, darker purple veinings. Law- 
renceanum (s), white and . purple, 
spotted black and purple. Leeanum 
(x, C-i), white, green, brown, and purple 
spots ; one of the finest and most use- 

4 G 



1 1 yo 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ON OKCmBS—contd. 

ful of the Hybrid Cypripediums ; there 
are extensive duplications in variety, 
but all are worthy of consideration. 
Lowii (S), white, brown, and rose. 
MACROPTERUM (x, i), white, suffused 
rose-purple, green, and brown. Massi- 
ANUM (X, I), white and green, thickly 
spotted and suffused brown. Mas- 
TERSIANUM (s), yel. and purple. May- 
NARDIL (x, I), white, green, and purple. 
MEASURES!^ (X, i), white, suffused 
rose-purple, spotted deep purple or 
claret. Measure si AN A (x, i), white 
and greenish-yel., suffused brown in 
two shades. MiLO (x, i), white, green, 
deep purple, and rich brown ; very 
fine. MoRGANi/E (x, I), white, green, 
and brown, deep purple spots. NiOBE 
(x, i), white, rose-purple, green, and 
brown, nitens (x, i), white, green, 
and brown, in different tints ; very 
variable. NIVEUM (s), white, minute 
brown dots. ]SruMA(x, i), white, purple, 
and brown in two shades, cenanthu.m 
(x, i), white, purple, green, and brown ; 
very variable in its different forms. 
ORPHANUM (x, I), white and rosy- 
purple, suffusion green and brown. 
PiTCHERiANUM (x, i), white, brown, 
and purple on greenish ground, poly- 
STIGMATICUM (x, i), wliite, brown, 
and green, porphyrochlamys (x, i), 
deep rosy-purple, spotted darlc brown. 
PURPURATUM (s), white and purple. 
RADiosUiM (x, i), white, green, brown, 
and purple. Rothschildianum (s), 
greenish-yel., purple, and blackish- 
purple. Sallierii (x, i), white, 
green, and brown in two shades, yel. 
tracings. S. Hyranuai (x, i), larger 
and brighter in colour than the type. 
Shillianum (x, i), white, green, 
brown, and dark purple. Smithii 
(X, i), white, green, bright purple, and 
brown. Spicerianum (i), white, 
brown, and violet. Statterianum 
(x, T), white, suffused rose-purple, 
green, and brown. Stonei (s), white 
and reddish-brown. SUPERBIENS (s), 
white. green, and purple-brown. 
superc; i.iARE (X, I), white, green, and 
brown, dark brown spots. SwANlANUM 
(x, I ), white, two shades of green, and 
deep brown. SwiNBURNii (x, i), white 
and broAvn, deep purple spottings. 
T. B. Haywood (x, i), white, green, 
and brown, darker brown spots, tessel- 
LA i-UM porphyreum (x, [), rosy-purple, 
suffused darker shade of purple. 



TONSUM (s), greenish-white and purple. 
T. W. Bond (x, i), white, green, and 
brown, purple suffusion. VENUSTU.m 
(I), green and purple, vexillarium 
(X, I), white, rose-purple, and brown. 
VILLOSUM (i), white, greenish-yel., and 
brown, v. BOXALLI (i), similar, dark 
spots. WiNXiAXUM (X, I), white, 
bright yel., and brown; fl. highly 
polished. WoTTONii (x, i ), white, suf- 
fused rich rosy-purple, veined darker 
shade; lip claret. W. R. Lee (x, i), 
white, green, and brown in two shades ; 
very fine. YouxGiAXUM (X, i), green, 
white, brown, and puqole. Zeus (x, i), 
white, rich puiple, and deep brown. 

The South American section, or 
Selenipediums, will be found under 
that heading. 

Cyrtopodium 

AXDERSONIAXUM (i ), yel. and green. 
PL'XCTATUM (i), yel., spotted brownish- 
purple. 

Dendrobium 

AixswoRTHii (s), white and purple, 
maroon disk ; fragrant. albo-Sax- 
GUINEUM (s), creamy-yel., maroon 
disk; fragrant. ASPASIA (s), buff-yel., 
purple to maroon disk ; Iragrant. 
ATROVIOLACEUM (s), greenish-white 
and violet - purple. AUREUM (s), 
creamy-yel., brown disk; fragrant. 
Bexsox.^ (s), white, maroon disk. 
Brymeriaxum (s), deep yel., heavily- 
bearded lip. Cambridgeanum (s'), 
yel., maroon disk. Cassiope (s), 
white, small purple disk ;. fragrant. 
CHRVSOTOXUM (s), yel. ; fragrant. 
crassinode (s), white, tipped purple, 
yel. disk. C. ALBUM (S), white, yel. 
disk. Cybele (s), rose, deep maroon 
disk. C. XOBILIUS (s), deep rose- 
purple, intense maroon disk. DEXSI- 
FLORUM (s), deep yel. d. album (s), 
creamy - white. Deyoxiaxum (S), 
white and orange, tipped purple. 
DoMiNii (S), pale rose, small maroon 
disk, dulce (s), pale rose-pui-ple, yel. 
in front of maroon disk, exdocharis 
(S), white, brown-purple disk ; fragrant. 
EUOSMUM (S), pale rose, cr.-pui-ple 
disk; fragrant. E. virgixale (S), 
white, intense maroon disk. Fal- 
COXERi (s), white, tipped purple, yel. 
in front of large maroon disk. Far- 
MERii (s), pale rose, white, and yel. ; 
Iragrant. F. aureum (s), pale yel. ; 
fragrant. fimbrl\tum (S), yel. 



APPENDIX. 



1 1 71 



OX OKCmBS—contd. 

F. OCULATUM (s), yel., rich cr. disk, ix- 
FUNDIBULUM (c), white, yel. disk. 
JAPONICUM (c), white and brown ; 
fragrant. Juxo (s), rose, tipped purple, 
yel., large maroon disk, litujflorum 
(S), deep rose, rich cr. disk ; fragrant. 
LoDDiGESii (s), pale rose and yel. 
Lowii (s), bright-yel., veined reddish- 
brown. LUTEOLUM (s), primrose-yel. 
Mac-Carthi-E (s), pale cerise and 
purple. MICAXS (S), deep rose-puiple, 
darker tips, rich disk. XOBILE (s), pale 
rose, white, maroon disk ; fragrant. 
N. ALBUM (s), white, primrose disk ; 
fragrant, x. Amesi.e (s), white, deep 
maroon disk; fragrant. X'. Balliaxum 
(S), almost white, salmon disk ; fragrant. 
N. CooKSOXii (Sj, petals blotched 
similar to disk; fragrant. X'. xobilius, 
(s), intense rose-purple; one of the best 
of the darker forms. Parishii (s), 
rose-pui-ple, dark purple disk ; fragrant. 
PRIMULIXUM (S), iDlush-pink and white ; 
fragrant. ROLF^ (s), pale rose, maroon 
disk. ScHXEiDERiAXUM (s), buff, yel., 
purple disk; fragrant. SPECIOSUM 
HiLLii (S), white, violet spotted; fra- 
grant. sPLEXDiDissiMmi (s), rose, 
deep maroon disk; fragrant. s. 
GRAXDIFLORA (s), larger and more 
highly-coloured ; fragrant. SUAVISSI- 
MUM (s), yel., deep maroon disk; fra- 
grant. SUPERBUM (S), deep rose, dark 
puiple disk; fragrant, tortile (s), light 
rose or creamy-yel., suffused rose- 
pur]5le. Vexus (S), pale rose, tipped 
deep cr., large maroon disk. AVakdi- 
ANUM (s), white, tipped purple, yel. in 
front of deep maroon disk. Wigax.^: 
(S), blush to creamy-white, maroon 
disk. 

Epidendrum 

COCHLEATUM (i), creamy-white and 
purple. ELEGAXTULUM (i), creamy- 
yel., rose, and pur]3le. Exdresii (i), 
white and violet-purple. Exdresio- 
Wallisii (I), yel., white, and reddish 
purple, macrochilum (I), white and 
purple. XEMORALE (I), rosy-lilac, 
striped violet-pui-ple. O'Briexiaxum 
(i), deep sc. radicaxs (s), deep 
orange-red. viTELLrxuM MAjus (C), 
orange-sc. and yel. Wallisii (i), yel., 
white and purple. 

Eulophiella 

Elizabeth.f: (s), white and bright 
rose-purple. Peetersiaxa (S), deep 
rose-purple and white. 



Grammatophyllum 

multiflorum (S), green, brown, and 
purple; fragrant. SPECIOSUM (s), yel., 
purple, and red streaks. 

Laslia 

ALBIDA (i), white and rose ; fragrant. 
CIXXABARIXA (i), orange-sc. CRLSPa 
(I), pale lilac and cr. ; fragrant. 
-UAYAXA (i), deep rose and cr. DiGBY- 
AXA (s), creamy-white ; bearded lip ; 
very fragrant, flava (i), yel. GLAUCA 
(i), creamy-white ; fragrant, harpo- 
PHYLLA (i), orange-sc. and white. 
Latoxa (I), orange, purple, and cr. ; 
MAJALIS (I), pale lilac and purple; 
fragrant, mox^ophylla (C), orange-sc. 
Perrixii (i), lilac, white, and cr. 
SUPERBIEXS (I), pale lilac and puiple ; 
fragrant. texebrosa (i), various, 
yel., deep purple, and cr. to rose; 
fragrant, xaxthixa (i), yel., white, 
and orange. 

There are numerous hybrid Laelias 
which have been derived from the inter- 
crossing of the various species. These 
have the intermediate characteristics ot 
the parents, and form useful additions 
to this lovely class. 

Laelio-Cattleya 

Amesiaxa (I), lilac-rose, yel., and 
cr. ; fragrant. Aphrodite (i), deep 
lilac, yel., and cr.-purple. callisto- 
GLOSSA (I), deep rose, yel., and cr, ; 
fragrant. Cax'HAMEAxa (i), rosy- 
lilac, yel., and cr.-purple; fragrant. 
Decia (I), light rose-purple, white, and 
cr. ; fragrant. EXIMIA (i), rosy-lilac, 
yel., and deep cr. ; fragrant. Hippolyta 
(I), orange-sc. and purple. Lady 
Rothschild fi), rose-purple, yel. and 
purple; fragrant. Xysa (I), pale lilac 
and cr.-purple ; fragrant. Pallas (i), 
deep rose, yel. and velvety cr. ; fragrant. 
Statteriaxa (I), lilac, yel., and 
purple : fragrant. Wellsiaxa (i), 
pale lilac, yel., and cr. ; fragrant. 
ZEPHYRA (i), creamy-3-el. and purple. 

Lycaste 

AROMATICA (c), light clear yel. ; 
very fragrant. CUXEATA (C), greenish- 
yel. and orange ; fragrant. Deppei (c), 
white, yel., and brown ; fragrant. 
GIGAXTEUM (c), creamy - white ; 
fragrant. LAXIPES (c), white'; fragrant. 
PLAXA (c), creamy - white. r. 
Measuresiaxa (c), creamj^-white and 
purple. 



4 G 2 



1172 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ON ORCHIDS— r^^/z/^r'. 
Masdevallia 

AMABILIS (C), deep Cr. BELLA (T), 

brown and white. CAUDATA (c), yel., 
purple, and green. CHm.LRA RoEZLii 
(C-l), deeppurple. C.WlNXlAXUM (c-l), 
reddish-purple and yel. ephippium 
(c-i), purplish-brown and yel. Estrada 
(c), niauve-puiple and yel. Gairiana 
(C), yel. and violet-puiple. IGXEA (C), 
yel., streaked orange. MACRURA (C), 
light yel. and purple. MACULATA (C), 
yel., green, and purple, polvsticta 
(C), yel., white, and purple, racemosa 
(c), bright sc. Schroederiana (c), 
yel., white, and purple, tovarexsis 
(C-i), white. AVagxeriaxa (C), yel. 

Maxillaria 

GRAXDIFLORA (c), white and yel. ; 
fragrant. Harrison.*; (c-i), white' and 
rose-purple ; fragrant. Saxderiana 
(C-i), cr. purple and white ; fragrant. 
VENUSTA (c), white and orange ; 
fragrant. 

Miltonia 

Bluntii Lubbersiana (c-i), 
white, yel., and cr. CAXDIDA (C-i), 
creamy-white and pink. Clowesii 
(C-i), creamj-yel., brown, and purple. 
CUNEATA (c-i), brown, yel., white, and 
pink. Regxelli (c-I), white, lilac, 
and rose, spectabilis (c-i), white and 
rosy-violet, s. Moreliana (c-i), deep 
purple, brighter veins. 

Odontoglossum 

Cervaxtesii (c), white and brown. 
CIRRHOSUM (c), white, spotted dark 
brown. IxsLEAYi (C-l), yel. and 
brown. luteo-purpureum (c), yel. 
and purple-brown. POLYXAXTHr:\i 
(c), yel. and deep brown. Uro- 
Skinnerii (c), creamy-white, brown, 
and purple. Wilckeaxum (c), white 
or cream, brown markings. 

Oncidium 

AUROSUM (c-i), yel. Cavexdtsh- 
lANUM (S), yel. and red. CRISPUM (c), 
brown and yel. cucullatt:m (c), 
white and purple, curium (c), brown 
and yel. dasystyle (c), light yel. and 
purple to brown, diyaricatum (c), 
yel., blotched and barred brown. 
flexuosum (c-i), yel., spotted brown. 
JONESIANUM (c-l), white and brown. 
lamelligerum (c), brown and yel. 
roXEXSE (c), dull olive, barred cinna- 
mon and yel. macranthum (c), 5'el , 



brown, and purple, ph v^l\toch I lum 
(S), yel. and reddish-brown. .SArcodes 
(s), bright brown and yel. .serra tum 
(C), bright yel. and brown, splex- 
DIDUM (s), green, brown, and yel. 
SUPERBIENs (c). light yel., brown, and 
plum-purple. TIGRIXUM (C), brown 
and bright yel. A\'E\rAVORTHiAXUM 
(c-l I, yel., spotted brown. 

Paphinia 

CRJSTATA (I), brown and yel. 
GRAXDIFLORA (i), yel. and chocolate- 
purple. RUGOSA (l), light yel. and red- 
purple. 

Pescatorea (Zygopetalum) 

CERLNA (.s), bright yel. ; fragrant. 
Dayaxum (S), yel. and cr. ; fragrant. 
Klabochorum'(S), white, brown and 
crimson, purple. 

Phaius 

graxdifolius (s). brownish-white 
and brown-cr. Humblotii (s). rose, 
white and red, purple, irroratus (s), 
white and dull rosy-purj-jle. MACU- 
latus (S), rich yel. Wallichii (s), 
orange-yel. or buff, tinged purple. 

Phalaenopsis 

Esi[ERALDA (S), rose to purple. 
IXTERMEDIA (x, s), white, shaded and 
suffused rose. JoHX Sedex (x, S). 
creamy-white, dotted light brown 
sepals and petals ; lip white, pale rose, 
purjDle, and yel. Lowii (s), white and 
deep rose ; deciduous. Ludde-yio- 
LACEA (x, S), rosy-purple, mottled 
white and purple. Maxxii (s), greenish- 
yel., brown bars and dots, rosea (s), 
bluish-white, violet, and yel. Saxder- 
lAX'A (s), rosy-pink and white, brown 
markings. tejraspis (S), creamy- 
white. 

Platyclinis 

fjliformis (S), bright yel. 

Pleione (Coelog-yne) 

humilis, (C-I). white, rose, streaked 
with brown ; fragrant, lagex'aria 
(C-l), white, striped and barred yel. 
and cr. ; fragrant. MACULATA (C-I), 
white, barred cr. ; fragrant. 
Walltchiaxa (C-i), pale-rosy lilac, 
lip striped white ; fragrant. 

Promenaea (Zyg-opetalum) 

STAPELioiDES (S), yel., barred and 
spotted purple. 



APPENDIX. 



II73 



OX ORCHIDS— tw/A7. 

Schomburgkia 

CRISPA (I), brown, yel., and white. 
Lyonsi (II), white, purple, and yeh 
TIBICINIS (I), mauve, cr., white, and 
rose. 

Selenipediums 

ALBO-PURPUREUM (X, I), white and 
rose-purple, calurum (x, i), white, 
green, and rose-purple. CARicixuM 
(I), green and white ; small, but beau- 
tiful. CARDINALE (x, i), white and 
bright rose-purple. CAUDATUM Wal- 
LISII (I), altogether a whiter gi'ound- 
•colour, and more delicate markings 
than in the type. Cliola (x, i), white, 
green, and rose, conchiferum (x, i), 
green and brown. DoMiMi (x, i), 
green and brown, purple spots. 
Grande (x, av-i), green and brown. 
LEUCORHODU-M (X, AV-i), white and 
rose ; one of the best. Lixdleyanum 
(l), deep brown ; small, longtfolium 
(w-i), green, purple, and brown. L. 
Hartwegii (w-I), brighter-coloured 
fl ; larger. macrochilum (x, w-i), 
green and brown, long tails ; very fine. 
XITIDISSIMCTM (x, w-i), green and 
brown. Perseus (x, av-i), rose, dis- 
tinct bronzy sulfusion. SCHLIMII (i), 
white and rose. Schroder.?; (x, av-i), 
Avhite and rose; one of the most dis- 
tinct. Sedenii (X, I), rose and white ; 
one of the oldest from which most of 
this section have their origin. 

Sobralia 

Kexestiaxa (I), Avhite. leuco- 
XAXTHA (I), pale yel., dark yel. 
throat. MACRAXTHA (I), rose, Avhite 
and yel. in throat. Veitchii (i), rose, 
mottled purple and yel. xaxtholeuca 
(I), light yel., deep yel. in throat. 



Stanhopea 

eburxea (I), white ; very fragrant. 
TIGRINA (i), deep orange, spotted 
purple ; very fragrant. Wardii (i), 
golden-yel., spotted purple; very 
fragrant. 

Thunia 

ALBA (r), white and yel. Benson^-k 
(i), deep rose, purple, and yel. 
^NIarshalliana (I), Avhite and yel. 

Trichopilia 

COCCIXEA (C-i), red and white; 
fragrant. fragrans (c-i), white; 
highly fragrant. Galeottiana (C-i), 
pale yel. iniarginata (c-i), reddis-h- 
purple, yel. and white ; fragrant. 
SUAA^S (c-i), white, rose, purple, and 
yel. ; very fragrant, s. alba (c-i), 
white, yel. throat. aORTiLis (c-i), 
yel. -green, white, and purple ; fragrant. 

Vanda 

Bensoxi (s), yel. -green, reddish- 
brown, and violet ; fragrant, c.eru- 
LESCENS (S), mauve-blue and violet. 
CONCOLOR (s), cinnamon-brown, rosy 
dots. CRISTATA (Sj, yel. -green, buff, 
and purple. lamellata Boxalli 
(S), creamy-white, reddish-purple, and 
rose; fragrant. Parishii (s), yel. and 
deep brown ; very fragrant. P. Mar- 
RIOTTIAXA (S), deep purple and white ; 
very fragrant. RoxBL'RGHii (s), olive- 
green, brown, violet-purple, and white. 

Zygopetalum 

CRINITUM (i), green, brown, creamy- 
white, and violet-purple. Mackayi 
(i), yel. -green, brownish-purple, white, 
and bluish-purple. maxillare (i), 
green, chocolate, and bluish-purple. 



14. -ON PIT( 

(p. 624 

Sarracenia — Species and Varieties 

Fildesii, yel. -green, purple vein- 
ings ; very fine. flaa'A maxi:\ia, much 
larger, and with mote prominent mark- 
ings than the type ; one of the finest. 
purpurea, fl. purple ; 1. dark green, 
suffused and veined deep purple ; 
hardy, rubra, fl. reddish-purple ; 1. 
deep green, suffused purple, reticulated 
with darker purple veinings. AWRIO- 
LARIS, fl. yel. ; 1. green, spotted 
"with white, near the yellowish summit 
light reticulated with purple. 



lER PLANTS 

P- 637). 

Sarracenia (coiitd.) — Hybrids 

Atkinsoniaxa, fl. light rose an 
yel. ; 1. pale green. Chelsonii, fl, 
deep red ; 1. pale green, becoming 
heavily suffused with dark pui-ple ; 
one of the most effective varieties. 
CouRTii, 1. green, becoming suf- 
fused cr. -purple and veined a darker 
shade of puiple; a most desirable 
kind. CRISPATA, 1. narrow, of a 
light green colour. exoxiensis, 
1. very large, green suffused with 
purple, veined a darker shade of 



II74 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



OX PITCHER FI.A'NTS—fojitd. 

purple ; one of the finest. Mitchell- 
lANA, 1. green, shading to purple and 
becoming heavily veined with deep 
purple ; it resembles S. melanorhoda. 
MooREi, fl. greenish-yel. suffused with 
different tints of pink; 1. green, thickly 
netted cr. veins and mottled white. 
PoPEl, fl. greenish-yel. flushed with 
pink ; 1. green, very narrow. 
Stevensji, 1. very large, green, with 
prominent straight deep purple veins, 
netted smaller veinings of the same 
colour. SwANfANA, 1. green with a 
network of prominent purple veinings. 
TOLLIANA, 1. green becoming wholly 
suffused deep purple, red veined with a 
darker shade of colour. Wrigleyana, 
I. long, recurving at the apex, showing 
the influence of S. psiitacina, green 
becoming suffused with a bright 
shade of purple, reticulated with a 
darker in the veinings, mottled white 
on the upper portions ; one of the 
most distinct and desirable kinds in 
cultivation. 



Nepenthes 

ALBO-MARGIXATA, pitchers light 
green, reddish suffusion above, am- 
PULLARIA, pitchers of a uniform light 
green. atro-saxguixea, pitchers 
reddish-cr., spotted yel. Courtii, 
pitchers dull green, spotted red. 
DoMixiANA, pitchers dark green, 
spotted reddish-brown. hybrida, 
pitchers dark green. IXTERMEDIA, 
pitchers green, spotted red. Kex- 
XEDYAX^'A, pitchers reddish-purple (very 
distinct); cool-growing. Laavrexce- 
ANA, pitchers pale green, spotted pro- 
fusely dark cr. OrTRA:\riAXA, pitchers 
pale yel. -green, densely spotted deep 
red. PHYLLAMPHORA, 'pitchers bright 
green. Ratcliffiana, pitchers green, 
spotted red. rubra, pitchers bright 
red ; very large, rubro-maculata, 
pitchers yel. -green, spotted claret-red. 
SEPERBA, pitchers green, thickly 
spotted reddish - brown. VILLOSa, 
pitchers dull green, slightly spotted 
reddish- brown. 



15.— ON STOVE PLANTS 

Flowering- (p. 641 to p. 663). 



mag. 



Achimenes. 

Argus, rich plum, orange eye ; large 
and free. Aurora, rosy sc., yel. 
throat. Dazzle, vivid sc., pale yel. 
eye ; small fl., but very profuse ; good 
habit. Eclipse, orange-sc, car. spots; 
abundant bloomer and good habit. 
Gem, rich car. purple ; small, but very 
free. Grand is, purplish lilac and 
mauve, throat orange spotted ; medium 
size and free. Leopard, brig 
rose, throat copiously spotted. Long 
FLORA ALBA, white ; good habit. 
Loveliness, rich mag., shaded cr., 
golden-yel. eye, maroon spots ; edges 
fringed. Magx^et, deep orange, cr. 
spots and zone of car. ; distinct and free. 
Margaretta, pure white; medium 
size. Phoebus, purple, merging to 
orange, throat dark yel., dark cr. spots. 
Pink Perfection, rosy-pink, bright 
red eye, 5^el. throat, spotted orange, 
rays of violet ; excellent. RoLLissoNii, 
deep lav. blue, throat 3'el., cr. spots ; 
an effective variety. Rose Queen, 
rosy-lake, shaded deep purple, orange 
throat ; large and attractive. Stella, 
deep mag., orange eye ; edges fringed ; 
large fl., and freely produced. Unique, 
rosy-pink, pale orange ej'e, sc. spots ; 



fringed ; large 



and handsome. 



Yio- 

letta, rich violet-purple, dark veins. 

Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) 

ASPASIA, white, feathered light sc. 
Brenda, rich cr. Daones, bright 
orange-red, margined white. Doris, 
dark cr. and maroon. Dr. Masters, 
bright car-sc, shaded purplish-cr. ; 
good form and substance. Duke of 
York, dazzling sc. Excellext, bril- 
liant sc. and cr., pure white rays. 
Hox. Maurice Gifford, deep cr.- 
sc. ; good substance and fair size. 
J. R. Pitcher, cr.-car., reticulated a 
deeper tint. Kinetox^, light red, large 
white star. Latox^a, cr.-sc, green 
eye. Leopoldi, large cr. fl., white 
star in centre ; tips of segment creamy- 
white. Morning Star, scape tour- to 
six-flowered; cr.-sc, bands of white. 
Pera, brick-red, white markings. 
QuEEX"" OF Holland, rose-sc, white 
stripe. Sultan, segments reflexed 
maroon-cr. The Czar, rich velvety-cr. 
Viscountess Hambledox^ bright 
red, green eye ; large, and good shape. 

Amherstia 

NOB I lis, fl. in drooping racemes, rich 
ver. spotted yel., ephemeral ; requires 



APPENDIX. 



FLOWERING STOVE PLANTS— rwz/./. 



great heat and moisture, with plenty of 
space; evei green tree of unsurpassed 
magnificence. 

Amorphophallus 

CAMPANULATUS, fl. brown, red, and 
black ; herbaceous perennial. 

Aphelandra 

AURANTIACA, 'fl. orange-sc. in ter- 
minal spikes in winter. cristata, fl. 
orange-sc. Evergreen shrubs. 

Arisaema 

FIMBRFATA, brownish-purple spathe 
and slender spadix covered tine purplish 
threads; tubtrous-rooted perennial. 

Beg-onia 

ACERIFOLIA, 1. lobed liked an Acer 
semi-transparent, pale green veins ; 
interspaces dark bronzy-green, a silvery 
blotch ; fl. light rose-pink, 2in. in 
diameter. Arthur Malet, hand- 
some bronzy 1. ; rose-pink fl. CAR- 
MINATA, fl. bright car. pink ; very 
decorative. Madame Leonnet, young 
1. rose-cr., changing to silvery white ; 
fl. pale flesh colour. Monsieur 
Hardy, handsome pink, green, and, 
bronzy 1. ; light rose fl. Myra, male 
fl. bright rose-car., 2 Jin. to 3in. in 
diameter, opening in succession; 
female fl. a little smaller, and slightly 
lighter shade; winter fl. Naomi 
Mallet, handsome bronzy 1. ; pale 
flesh-coloured fl. Winter Cheer, 
dwarf, compact and free ; fl. rose-car., 
semi-double, 3in. across, useful for 
cutting and lasting a long time in 
perfection; an autumn and winter fl. 
hybrid. 

Cienkowskia 

KiRKii, fl. pale rose-purple ; sweet- 
scented ; herbaceous perennial. 

Columnea 

KLalbreyeriana, fl. 3'el., of striking 
and ornamental appearance ; ever- 
green. 

Crossandra 

undul^folia, fl. reddish-orange ; 
erect habit ; evergreen shrub. 

Curcuma 

CORDATA, reddish-yel. ; herbaceous 
perennial. Roscceana, sc., orange 
bracts. 



Cyrtanthus 

sanguineus, fl. orange red and yel., 
red streaks ; bulb. 

Cyrtoceras 

REFLEXUM, fl. whitish, wax-like ; 
shrub. 

Dalechampia 

ROEZLIANA ALBA, an evergreen 
shrub with pretty white bracts. R. 
ROSEA, rose-coloured bracts. 

Exacum 

AFFINE, fl. bluish - lilac, sweet- 
scented ; a neat-growing and free- 
flowering perennial. macranthum, 
fl. 2in. across, rich purple, large bright 
yel. stamens ; annual ; sow seeds in 
April. Zeylanicum, fl. violet, in 
panicles ; a beautiful annual. 

Globba 

ATROSANGUINEA, fl. yel., SC. bracts, 
in terminal racemes ; herbaceous 
perennial. 

Gloxinera 

Brilliant. This is a bigeneric 
hybrid raised from seed obtained by 
fertilising a Gesnera with Gloxinia 
pollen. It produces good-sized brilliant 
car.-cr. fl., disposed in a horizontal 
position. 

Gloxinia — Spotted 

Circe, white, spotted light rose- 
purple ; extra large. Clarinda, white, 
spotted cr. and purple, and marked cr. 
lines ; distinct and good. Clio, white, 
mottled ro>y-red ; large, good form, and 
free. Cordelia, violet-purple, densely 
spotted and freckled in the throat. 
Hermia, deep violet-purple, shaded 
maroon, light purple margin ; throat 
white, spotted cr. Mrs. Atkinson, 
rich plum, pure white margin, densely 
spotted purple. Octavia, bght blue, 
profusely spotted violet. 

— Drooping--flowered 

Diadem, brilliant sc.-cr., shaded pur- 
plish-maroon ; extra large. Eclipse, 
brilliant cr. ; throat lighter, and spotted 
deep cr. Excelsior, flowing cr., 
shaded sc. ; throat white-mottled and 
spotted cr. ; robust and free. James 
Barber, lower segments rich dark 
purple, upper violet-purple. 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



FLOWERING STOVE FI^XNTS—co?zid. 



Gloxinia ((rc>;?/(^J— Erect-flowering- 

Beauty, pui-ple, white edge, pro- 
fusely spotted. Claribel, white, 
speckled rose ; large, and fine form. 
Creole, dark violet-purple, shaded 
maroon ; light blue margin, with darker 
spots ; one of the best in size, form, and 
substance. Crown Prince, delicate 
blush, cr. blotch on segments ; throat 
pure white. Duchess of Connaught, 
sc.-cr., margined white ; throat spotted 
cr. Emperor William, deep blue, 
pure white margin ; large, and good 
substance. Gaiety, cr., white-edged ; 
throat light, dotted cr. King OF THE 
Reds, bright rosy-red ; large, and good 
form. Marchioness of Aber- 
gavenny, white, spotted and freckled 
purple; large and well-formed fl. 
Merimac, deep cr., the narrow pale 
border freely spotted car. ; one of 
the best. Mont Blanc, snow-white ; 
free. Mrs. Abbey, rich car., dashed 
white ; very large blossoms. ]Mrs. 
Bausp:, pure white, circle of rosy-pink 
in the throat; large and good. Mrs. 
Neal, cr.-sc, the white border spotted 
rose ; throat stained cr. Xe Plus 
Ultra, violet-purple, edges lighter ; 
throat well coloured. Nestor, bright 
sc. ; fine-formed fl. Princess May, 
pure white ; good substance. RA- 
DIANCE, inside of limb rich velvety- 
car., outside pale pick; medium size. 
Rose Queen, rose, scarlet flush; bril- 
liant colour and good shape. Rosy 
Morn, rosy-sc; fine form. Unique, 
magenta-cr., white throat. Vesuvius, 
sc.-cr., throat lighter and spotted deep 
cr. Violacea, deep, rich, glowing 
violet ; large and free. Virginalis, 
white ; free. 

Gordonia 

JAVANICA {Schima Noronlice)^ a 
compact white-fl. shrub. 

Griffinia 

Blumenavia, fl. white in umbels, 
streaked and pencilled with rosy-car. ; 
bulb. HYACINTHINA, fl. bluish-lilac ; 
the variety maxima has larger fl., white, 
tipped with rich blue. 

Haemanthus 

CINNABARINUS, fl. vermilion-red, 
HIRSUTUS, fl. pure white, in dense 
heads. INSIGNIS, orange-sc. Kal- 



BREYER I , fl. cr., in large umbels. Cape 
bulbs. 

Heterocentron (Heeria) 

ROSETM, in panicles of bright rose 
fl. ; an autumn-flowering evergreen 
shrub. 

Hymenocallis 

MACROSTEPHANA, a bulbous plant 
allied to Pancratium, fragrant pure 
white fl., lasting a long time. 

Imantophyllum (Clivia) 

Excellent, orange-sc, with white 
eye. Favourite, light orange-yel. 
fl., broad segments ; of excellent form 
and very distinct. Lady Wolyerjon, 
fl. bright orange-red, yel. centres. 
METEOR, fl. bright cr.-sc, base of 
segments yel. - white ; excellent. 
Model, fl. orange-sc, of good form 
and substance. Optima, fl. bright 
orange-sc, marked with yel. and white 
at base ; a very superior variety. 

Liebig-ia (Chirita) 

SPECIOSA, a pretty Gesneraceous 
plant ; fl. white and purple. 

Ochna 

mult [FLORA, fl. yel. fragrant, suc- 
ceeded by attractive fruit ; shrub. 

Pavonia (Goethea) 

Makoyana, bracts cr. AVioti 
(GcETHEA INIULTIFLORA), an ever- 
green, with numerous pink and red 
bracts. 

Portlandia 

GRANDIFLORA, fl. white, fragrant, 
trumpet-shaped, a red tinge inside ; 
shruD. 

Ruellia 

Baikiei, fl. sc. in terminal 
panicles; a winter flowering sub-shrub. 
MACRANTHA, fl. tmmpet-shaped, rosy- 
purple, prettily veined in the throat; 
shrub. ROSEA, fl. rose in terminal 
spikes. 

Sarmienta 

REPENS, fl. sc. ; a creeping plant ^ath 
slender stems ; cool, moist position. 

Solandra 

GRANDIFLORA, (Peach - coloured 
Trumpet Flower), fl. large, greenish- 
white ; requires plenty of space. 



APPENDIX. 



II77 



FLOWERING STOVE PLANTS 

Stenogastra (Sinningia) 

CONCINNA, corolla purple and yel., 
spotted within ; thrives under same 
treatment as Gloxinias. MULTIFLORA, 
fl. lilac-blue ; a garden variety. 

Tachiadenus 

CARINATUS, fl. white and violet ; in 
terminal cymes ; in October. 

Uroskinnera 

SPECTABiLis, fl. rosy-violet, in close 
spikes ; of easy culture. 



Ornamental Foliagi 

Aglaonema 

COSTATUM, 1. 4in. long, dark green, 
white spots and midrib. CuRTisir, 1. 
broad, ground-colour green, white mark- 
ings. PUMILUM, 1. broadly-lanceolate, 
deep green, blotched light silvery- 
green ; a charming little plant. VERSI- 
COLOR, an attractive species with dif- 
ferent shades of green and milk-white 
patches. 

Alocasia 

MARGINATA, 1. broadly heart-shaped, 
i8in. to 24in. long, iiin. to I4in. broad, 
upper sun ace dark green, midrib and 
veins reddish, under surface tinted 
purple, petiole and sheath marked 
with blackish-brown. PRINCEPS, 1. 
sagittate, margins deeply sinuate, 
upper surface metallic olive-green with 
darker midrib and veins, under-surface 
greyish- green, brown margin, petiole 
greyish -green, marbled brown. San- 
DERIANA, leaves somewhat arrow- 
shaped and lobed on each side, midrib 
and veins white, ivory-white border on 
each side, surface glossy greea with 
metallic blue reflections, petiole 
striated and mottled ; very distinct and 
handsome. 

Ananassa 

PoRTEANA, 1. armed with spines, 
deep olive green with a broad pale yel. 
band running down the centre. 

Anthurium 

Kalbreyeri, 1. rich green, palmate, 
2^ft. across ; very handsome where 
room can be spared for its full develop- 
ment ; a climbing species. 



■contd. 

Utricularia (Bladderwort) 

Endresii, fl. bright yel. and 
orange, much resembling an Orchid, 
and for which it is often mistaken ; a 
capital basket-plant. Humboldtii, 
fl. large, pale bluish, on long spikes. 
jMONTANA, fl. white and yel. ; suited 
for a basket near the glass ; very hand- 
some. 

Xeronema 

Moorei, a Liliaceous plant ; fl. 
bright cr., tubular. 



(p. 663 to p. 683). 

Aphelandra 

MEDIO AURATUM, 1. ovate-lanceo- 
late, bright green with a band of yel. 
PICTURATUM, 1. green, rich yel. and 
creamy- white variegations. 

Artocarpus 

INCISA (Bread Fruit Tree), an ever- 
green with dark green 1., deeply lobed 
and cut. laciniatus metallicus, 
upper surface of 1. bronzy-green, 
reddish-purple beneath. 

Bertolonia 

Adolphe de Rothschild, 1. dark 
green, veins bright rose. argyro- 
NEURA, 1. bright green, silvery spots 
and veins ; very handsome. Comte 
DE Kerchove, 1. elliptical, dark green, 
veined and spotted bright pink. COM- 
TESSE DK Kerchovk, 1. dark green, 
copiously spotted and veined pink. 
margaritacea superba, 1. brownish- 
green, silky-white spots. Souvenir 
DE Gand, 1. deep gi-een, rosy-magenta 
veins. Triomphe de l'Exposition, 
1. small, red and green, handsomely 
veined. 

Caladium 

Donna Carmen Macedo, 1. trans- 
parent, pink and rich red, dark green 
veins. Duchess of Connaught, 1. 
light silvery-green, shaded rose, and 
veined rose-pink. Duchess of Teck, 
1. greenish-white, translucent, with 
reddish-brown spot at the apex of the 
petiole ; a distinct variety of medium 
habit. Duke of York, footstalks 
dark cr., blade bright car., with darker 
mid-rib and veins. Edith Luther, 
1. broad, bronzy pink and bright car. 



THE 1300K OF GARDENING. 



ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE STOVE PLANTS— contd. 



veins; distinct. Gaspard Grayer, 1. cr. 
centre, green margin, veined bright cr. 
Ladas, midrib and veins car., inter- 
spaces lighter and mottled pink. Lady 
MoSLEY, rose-car. blade with a narrow 
green margin, veins bright car. Lady 
Stafford Northcote, an effective 
variety with arrow-shaped blood-red 1. 
shaded with cr. ; one of the best. Le 
Nain Rouge, a small-1. bright copper- 
red variety. Marquis of Camden, 
large 1. with dark-blood red veins, 
interspaces glowing red, green margin 
and a few whitish spots. Martin 
Luther, rose-cr., dwarf and compact. 
Mrs. Ice'JON, 1. sulphur-yel., white 
blotches, violet and cr. tints ; a hand- 
somely delicate light variety. Mrs. 
McLeod, 1. cr. marked darker veins ; 
an excellent variety, belonging to the 
dwarf section. Mrs. Morter, light 
pink suffused white, deep car.- 
red veins and pale green margin. 
Silver Cloud, silvery-white, green 
spots, and short car.-red veins. Sir 
Julian Goldsmid, large blade, bright 
red veins and reticulations, interspaces 
suffused red as they mature ; dwarf and 
good habit. Sir AVilliam Bro.\d- 
BENT, veins brilliant car., interspaces 
green, copiously spotted white. The 
Mikado, centre of blade dark car., 
shaded with maroon and margins bright 
green ; an effective variety. Tho^^ias 
Peed, 1. bright rose suffused green at 
the edges, veins car., good and distinct ; 
of dwarf habit. , 

Croton (Codiaeum) 

Disraeli, 1. trilobate, about ift. 
long, middle lobe elongated, and 
broadest near the extremity, midrib 
golden, with a band of yellow on each 
side, the green portions become bright 
sc. with age, and beautilully splashed 
and mottled with rich orange-yel. 
Her Majesty, straight, narrow, clear 
yel. ; 1. tipped green. Mme. Ernest 
Bergman, a short broad-1. variety, 
beautifully marbled with green, bright 
yel. and cr. Mayi, 1. narrow, rich 
yel., blotched green. Mrs. Iceton, a 
br<iad-leaved variety in which various 
shades of yel.. green, rose, and car. are 
attractively blended. Mrs. McLeod, 
1. narrowly-linear, 6in. to loin. long, 
gracefully arching; midrib bright- 
coloured, a band of yel. on each side, 
deep green margins, \vith various tints 



and colourings in 1. in different stages 
of maturity ; a very effective decorative 
variety. M. E. Fourner, centre of 
1. rich golden-yel., margius bright green, 
veined with yel. Shi ttleworthii, 1. 
long, narrow, pendent, slightly twisted, 
cream and green, with rosy-red mid- 
ribs. L'NDULATUS, 1. oblong acuminate, 
8in. to 9in. long and i^in. lo 2in. 
wide, with undulated margins, most 
handsomely blotched and mottled with 
cr., pink, and yel., midrib purplish, 
very handsome. 

Curmeria 

PICTURATA, dwarf-growing, 1. heart- 
shaped, light green, a prominent white 
band running the entire length. Wal- 
Lisii, 1. ovate-oblong, spreading, 
irregular patchings and markings of 
dark green, yellowish-green, and 
greenish-grey ; dwarf and distinct. 

Dieffenbachia 

BRAsiLiENSJS, 1. i8in. long, 9in. 
wide, deep green, suffused and spotted 
with greenish - yel. and white. 
ILLUSTRLS, 1. lanceolate-acute, dark 
green, irregularly blotched and mottled 
with white and yel-green ; excellent 
exhibition, i:\iperialis, 1. deep green, 
irregularly blotched and spotted with 
creamy-yel., and white and greyish 
mid-rib ; a bold-growing, handsome 
kind. Jexmanii, 1. broadly lance- 
shaped, deep green, with transverse 
white lines and blotches ; distinct and 
ornamental. magnifica, 1. shining 
sombre green, with dense spots and 
blotches of silverv-white occunins' in 
the spaces between the secondar}' 
nerves; of compact habit, triumphans, 
1. ovate - lanceolate, attenuately 
acuminate, I2in. long, 5in. wide, dark 
green, with large angular blotches of 
yel. -green; of somewhat spreading 
habit. 

Dracaena 

A. Laing, 1. gracefully arching, 2^ft. 
long. I Jin. broad, cr. ; decorative ; of 
good constitution. DuCHESs of York, 
1. loin. to I5in. long, lin. broad, whtn 
young light green M'ith cream-white 
margins, tinted with rose-pink ; matui e 
1. dark olive green, with bright car. 
margins ; a good table plant. 
Mallettii, lower 1. slightly drooping, 
upper erect, 2ft. long and 4in. broad, 
bronzy-green, with car. margins ; young 



APPENDIX. 



II79 



ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE STOVE PLANTS— 6V//A7. 



L highly and brightly coloured ; 
vigorous habit. Mrs. Laird, 1, narrow, 
somewhat erect, and bright cr. 
when quite young ; decorative. The 
Sirdar, 1. 8in. to loin. long by ^in. 
broad, olive-green, with car. margins, 
\oung leaves whitish, tinted with rose ; 
■of dwarf, compact, arching habit. 
AVarrenii, 1. I5in. to 2oin. long, deep 
bronzy-cr., young leaves margined witla 
blight car. -red; a stmxly hybrid, thriving 
-and growing freely in small pots ; hence 
useful for vases and table decoration. 

Ficus 

RADICANS VARIEGATA, L irregularly 
margined with creamy white ; an effec- 
tive pot or basket-plant, of easy culture. 

Graptophyllum 

HORTENSE (NoRTONii) (Caricature 
Plant), 1. variegated and marked in 
such a curious manner that portraits of 
individuals are easily imagined. 

Maranta 

LEOPARDINA, 1, yel. -green, with 
oblong pairs of dark velvety-green 
blotches on each side of the midrib ; 
semi-deciduous. Lindenii, 1. 6in. to 
I2in. long, dark green, with yel. -green 
blotches on each side of the midrib, 
mider-surface purphsh-rose ; free-grow- 
ing species. Makoyana, 1. 6in. to Sin, 
long, 4in. broad, marked and freckled 
with white and dark-green blotches, 
under-surface cr. ; of dwarf, dense, 
spreading habit. Massangeana, 1. 
with silvery midrib and veins ; various 
shades of green and velvety-maroon are 
attractively displayed in the markings ; 
dwarf and distinct, roseo-picta, mid- 
rib bright rosy-red, a rosy band running 
round within and almost parallel with 
the margin. splendida, 1. shining 
dark green, blotched with light green 
or grecnish-yel. tubispatha, 1. ovate- 
elliptic. Sin. to I2in. long, light-green, 
with oblong deep brown blotches on 
each side the midrib; of easy culture; 
semi-deciduous. Veitchii, 1. ovate- 
elliptic, I Sin. long, rich glossy-green, 
with crescent-shaped designs along 
each side of the midrib, consisting of 
different shades of green, yel., and 
white ; a highly-desirable species. YIT- 
tata, 1. ovate-acuminate, gin. long, 
2^in. wide, with transverse silvery-white 
lines on each side of the midrib ; good 
habit and constitution. 



Miconia 

Hookeriana, 1. olive- green, silvery 
midribs ; an ornamental shrub, 

Monstera 

DELICIOSA, 1. dark green, often 
curiously perforated with holes ; a well- 
known evergreen Aroid noted for its 
delicious tropical fruits. 

Nephthytis 

PICTURATA, an Aroid, with varie- 
gations resembling Fern fronds in 
white on a green ground between the 
neiwes of the leaves, 

Pandanus 

Baptistii, 1, gracefully arching, 
spineless, ift. to 2ft. long, and not 
more than lin. broad ; sometimes 
wholly green, but occasionally traversed 
throughout the whole length with 
white lines, javanicus variegatus 
(syn. P. candelabrum variegatus), 
1. narrow and pendulous, white spines, 
bright green ground, pure white bands 
of variegation. PACIFICUS, 1, glossy- 
green, spines on the margins and mid- 
nerve ; of bold aspect and compact 
habit. Vandermeeschii, 1. stiff, 
somewhat erect, glaucous green, mar- 
gins and spines reddish ; nice habit 
when young. 

Ravenala 

MADAGASCARIENSIS (TRAVELLER'S 

Tree), 1. blae-green ; called Traveller's 
Tree on account of the water found 
stored up in the sheaths of the 1. -stalks 
when pierced with a knife ; a bold 
Musa-like plant, 

Schismatoglottis 

CRISPATA, 1. oval, I2in, long by 7in. 
broad, of a pea-green ground, silvery- 
green variegations ; a distinct Aroid, of 
dwarf and compact habit. 

Sonerila 

Francis Marchand, 1. dark 
brownish-green, heavily mottled gre)', 
Hendersoni marmorata, 1, ovate, 
silvery pearl-like markings on a dark 
olive-green ground ; dwarf and com- 
pact. H. Walter, 1. 3in. long, 2in. 
broad, greyish-veined, spotted dark 
green, imder-surface reddish-purple. 
Lady Burton, 1. silvery, green reticu- 
lations, Mrs. H, Walter, 1. pale 
brown, numerous grey spots. 



ii8o 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



ORNAMENTAL FOLIAGE STOVE PLANTS— ro«A/. 



Madame Langenhool, 1. dark brown, 
grey spots. 

Terminalia 

elegans (Polyscias paniculata), 
1. pinnate, bright green, handsomely 
netted reddish-brown ; a fine handsome 
shrub, best known in gardens under 
the first name, wdiich is not, however, 
correct ; of a very attractive character 
when well grown. 



Theophrasta 

IMPERIALIS (ChRYSOPHVLLUM IM- 

periale), 1. 3ft. long and 8in. wide, 
sharp spines at the margins ; a hand- 
some shrub. Juss^f, 1. spreading, 
linear-oblong, armed on the edges 
with rigid spines. macrophvlla 
(Clavija Reideliana), 1. deep 
green, rigid, 2ft. long; a handsome 
shrub. 



Climbers (p. 683 to p. 696). 



Abrus 

precatoril'S, 1. pinnate ; fl. pale 
purple ; seeds bright shming sc., with a 
shining black spot ; these are used for 
making necklaces and rosaries in 
tropical countries ; deciduous. 

Camoensia 

maxima, fl. white, drooping, the 
margins of the petals tinged with yel. ; 
very handsome. 

Cissus (Piper) 

porphyrophyllus, 1. heart-shaped, 
4m. to 6in. long, and 3in. to 4in. 
broad, rich bronzy-green, with nume- 
rous pink spots and freckles, under- 
surface purple. 

Dioscorea 

DISCOLOR, 1. heart-shaped, prettily 
mottled with different shades of green, 
under-surface rich cr.-purple. retusa, 
1. digitate ; leaflets oval, veined ; fl. 
creamy-white, in slender pendulous 
axillary racemes ; fragrant ; suitable for 
growing on an umbrella trellis or as a 
roof-rambler in an intermediate tem- 
perature. 

Echites 

RUBRo-venosa, 1. emerald-green, 
with bright red and golden venation ; 
of neat habit. 



Hexacentris (Thunbergia) 

:mvsorexsis, fl. purple and yel. ; 
free-growing. M. li'TEA, a variety of 
the former ; fl. rich yel. 

Mimosa 

ARGENTEA, 1. silvery-grey ; of neat 
habit. 

Pergularia 

ODORATissiMA, fl. greenish-\-el. ; 
very fragrant. 

Philodendron 

AxDREAXUM, 1. large, green and 
bronzy, 2ft. to 3ft. long and lOin. 
broad; a striking and effective Aroid ; 
very useful for decorative purposes. 
LiXDEXi (VERRUCOSUM), 1. heart- 
shaped of a satiny-green, with metallic 
blen dings, under surface pale green, 
with bands of maroon. 

Smilax 

ORXATA (S. MACROPHY'LLA MACU- 

LATA), 1. somewhat heart-shaped, 
deep green, with silver}--grey markings 
between the veins, branches armed 
with prickles. There is O. marmorea, 
1. prettily marbled. 

Stig-maphyllon 

CILIATUM ( GoLDEX Vixe), 1. cordate, 
glaucous, ciliated on the edges, fl. 
rich orange-yel. ; in large umbels. 





Index 



^ — vx- 



Abele Tree, 398 
Abeiia, 363 

climbintr, 467 
Abies, 480, 502, 521 

Douglasii, 511 

weeping, 47-; 
Above-ground layering, 953 
Abraxas, 997 
Abutilon, 187, 706, 756 
Acacia, 187 

Rose, 409 

Three-tliorned, 385 
Acalypha, 663 
Acantholimon, 290 
Acanthopanax, 364 
Acanthophoenix, 812 
Acanthorhiza, 812 
Acanthus, 892 
Acers, 364 

weeping, 477 
Achillea, 264, 290 
Achimenes, 641, 737 
Acinefa, 592 
Aconite, Winter, 374 
Aconitum, 264 
Acorus, 886 
Actinidia, 466 
Adamsia, 347 
Adam's Needle, ^55 
Adonis, 215, 290 
^chmea, 641 
Aerides, 577 
^schynanthus, 642 
^sculus, 366 
African Lily, 310 

Marigold, 247 
Agalmyla, 642 
Agapanthus, 310, 738 
Agaricus, 1109 
Agathaea, 706 
Ageratum, 169, 241 
Agrostemma, 215, 264 
Agrotis, 1096 
Ailantus, 367 
Akebia, 757 

quinata, 470 
Albizzia, 187, 750 



Alder-leaved Pepper Tree, 
375 

Alders, 367 

American Witch, 383 
Alexandrian Laurel, 451 
Aleyrodes, 1056 
Alisma (Elisma). 882,886 
AUamanda, 642, 684 
Alleys, bifurcation of, 22 
junctions of, 12 
sections of, 23 
tracing, 10 
Allium, 310 

All Saints' Cherry, 401, 476 
Allspice, Carolina, 371 
Almonds, 399 
Alnus, 367 

weepins, 478 
Alocasia, 665 
Alonsoa, 241, 706 
Aloysia, 469. 750 
Alpine Auriculas, 47, 51 

Flax, 274 

Rose, 448 

Strawberries, 1041 
Alpinia, 926 
Alstroemeria, 311 
Alternanthera, 193 
Althaea frutex, 386 

rosea, 89 
Alum Root, 273 
Alyssum, 205, 216, 290 

Golden, 205 

Rock, 216 

Sweef, 216 
Amarantus, 241 ■ 
Amaryllis, 311, 643, 738, 744 
Amasonia, 644 
Amber, Sweet, 388 
Amblyolepis, 216 
Ambrosia, 2i5 

Fungus, 1086 
Amelanchier, 368 
America, Arboriculture in, 

American Arbor Vitae, 518 
Black Spruce, 503 
Blight, 1083 
Mountain Ash, 464 
Mountain Laurel, 440 
plants, 32 

plants, drainage for, 32 
plants, soil for, 32 
Swamp Lilies, 895 
Water Shield 882 
Weepins Willow, 477 
Witch Alder, 383 
Withe Rod, 479 
Ammobium, 216 



Ammonia, sulphate of, 1142 
Ammoniacal solution of 

copper carbonate, 

1 108 

Ammyrsine, 441 
Amorpha, 368 
Ampelopsis, 465, 466 
Amygdalopsis, 40L 
AmygHalus, 399 
Anagallis, 242 
Anagyris, 445 
Analysis of plants, 1115 
Ananassa, 666 
Anbury, 1056 mo 
Anchusa, 217 

capensis, 256 
Andre's Broom, 378 
Andromedas, 419, 441, 445 

arborea, 395 

calyculata, 428 

site for, 32 
Andropogon, 666 
Androsace, 290 
Anemone, 205, 312 

Chrysanthemum- 
flowered, 314 

Chrysanthemums, late- 
flowering, 155 

Poppy, 313 
Angelica, 1063 

Tree, 369 
Angragcum, 578 
Anguloa, 592 
Anhalonium, 790 
Animal manures, 1121, 1125 
Animal pests, 1079, 1080 
Animated Oat, 217 
Annuals and Biennials, 
21T : 

early-flowering, 212 
general treatment of, 
214 

half-hardy, 240 
half-hardy, raisingunder 

glass, 240 
hardy, 212 

hardy, February sowing 
of, 213 

hardy, late sowing, 213 
Anoectocbilus, 584 
Anomatheca, 315 
Ansellia, 592 
Antennaria, 193 
Anthericum, 315 
Anthomyia, 1056 
Anthonomus, 1099 
Anthoxanthum odoratum, 42 
Anthracnose of Vine, 1015 
Anthurium, 644, 666 

4 H 



Il82 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Ants, 1084 

Aphelandra, 645, 667 
Aphides, 1070, 1085 

Apple, 1085 

Cabbage, 1056 

Cheriy, 1085 

Currant, 1085 

Peach, 1085 

Plum, 1085 

Woolly, 1083 
Aponogeton, 881 

fenestrale, 909, 918 
Appendix, 1149 
Apple Aphis, 1085 

Bark Beetle, 10S6 

Blossom Weevil, 1098 

Canker, 984 

Rot, 9^5 

Scab, 1108 

Sucker, 983 
Apples, 974 

Cordon, 980 

exhibition, 981 

for heavy soils, 976 

for warm soils, 976 

free-bearmg, 977 

manuring, 982 

ornamental trees, 403 

pests, 982 

pruning, 978 

Trees for gardens, iorms 
of, 974 
Approaches, 17 

grafting by, 964 
Apricots, outdoor, 985 

protecting, 9^7 

pruning, 986 

soil for, 985 

under glass, 987 

varieties of, 987, 9S9 

Weevil, 1098 
Aquatic Plants, 865 : 

arrangement of tubs 
and pots, 902 

culture of tender, 903 

erect, 

Ferns for the waterside, 
893 

floating and submerged, 
hardy, 876, 8Si 

flowering plants for the 
waterside, 894 

foliage plants for the 
waterside, 891 

fountain basins, 874 

Grasses for the water- 
side, t93 

hardy, 867 

heating, 902 

houses, 678 

pests, 870 

planting hardy, 874 
ponds, making. 871 
pots, 902 
propagation, 906 
rats, 870 

riverside plants, 890 
rockery, 872 
soil for hardy, 874 
soil for tender, 903 
tanks for hardy. 873 
tanks for tender, 901 
tender, 896 
tropical, 896 
tubs, 902 

waterside, 891, 894 
water-supply, 872 
weeds, 870 



Aquifolium, 436, 438 
Aquiiegia, 264 
Arabis, 205, 291 
Arachnanthe, 573 
Aralia, 364, 369, 667, 750 
Araucaria, 483, 750 
Arboriculture. See "Trees 

and Shrubs " 
Enslish and foreign, 25 
Arbor VitEc, 518 
Arbours, berry-bearers for, 

464 

Arbutus, 420, 460 
Ardisia, 645 
Areca, 813 
Arenaria, 291 
Aria, 403 

Aristolochia, 467, 685 
Aristotelia, 474 
Armillaria, 1109 
Aronia Thorn, 377, 461 
Arpophyllum, 592 
Arrangement of Roses for 
bed and border, 97 
Arrow-head, 889, 924 
Arrow-wood, '418 
Artichokes, Globe, 1049 

Jerusalem, 1049 
Artihcial guanos, 1140 

manures, 1133. See 
" Manures " 
Artillery ^ lant, 658 
Arum J ily, 738, 746, 888 

Arrow, 887 

Water, 887 
Arundinaria, 422, 860 
Arundo, 420, 861, 893 
Asclepias, 894 
Ash, Mountain, 463 

species and varieties of, 
383 

W'Ceping, 478 
Asparagus, 668, 750, 1048 

Beetle, 1049 
Aspect for greenhouse, 700 
Aspens, weeping, 476 
Aspidistra, 750 
Aster, 265, 291 

China, 243 

Cockade, 244 

Comet, 244 

Crown, 244 

Dwarf Chrysanthemum- 
flowered, 244 

Dwarf Queen, 245 

Pseony-flowered, 244 

Prize Quilled, 244 

Victoria, 244 
Astilbe rivularis, 894 

(Spirasa) japonica, 412 
Astrocaryum, 813 
Ataccia, 645 
Atlas Cedar, 483 
Attalea, 814 
Aubrietia, 205, 291 
Aucuba, 459 
Auriculas, 45 

Alpine, 47, 51 

compost, 49 

cross-fertilising, 48 

culture, 47 

Green-edged, 45, 50 

Grey-edged, 47, 50 

pests, 51 

Pin-eyed, 46 

pips of, 45 

preparing for exhibition, 
49 



Auriculas, propagation, 47 

rot in, 51 

belfs, 47, 50 

Show, 45, 50 

varieties, 50 

White-edge, 47, 50 

wild, 45 
Auriculd-eyed Sweet Wil- . 

Ham, 258 
Australian Gum Tree, 752 

Water Lily, 911 
Austrian briars, 121 
Avena, 217 
Avenues, 18 
Ayrshire Roses, 120 
Azaleas, 404 

site for, 32 
Azara, 459 



B. 

Babiana, 316 
Babylonian Willow, 477 
Bachelor's Buttons, 347 
Bactris, 815 
Bacularia, 815 
Balaninus, 1024 
Ball 1 ree. Orange, 427 
Balm of Gilead, 460 
Balsams, 245, 706 

Camellia - flowered, 245, 
707 

Carnation-flowered, 245 

Miniature, 245 

Poplar, 399 

Rose-flowered, 245 
Bamboo Palm, 846 
Bamboos, Bambusa, 422, 
807, 859, 861 

waterside, 893 
Banksian Roses, in 
Banyan Tree, 675 
Baptisia, 445 

Barbados Gooseberry, 88 
Barberries, berry - bearing, 
461 

deciduous, 369 

evergreen, 424 

prunnig, 362 
Barkeria, 592 
Bartonia, 217 
Basic slag, 1137 
Basket-plants for rooms, 782 
Baskets, hanging, growing 

Ferns in, 545 
Bass-w'ood, 416 
Bay, Sweet, 440 
Beans, 1050 

Bog, 887 

Buck, 887 

Dwarf, 1 05 1 

French Kidney, 1051 

Indian Sacred, 922 

Scarlet Runner, 1051 

White, 403, 463 
Bearded Iris, 332 
Bear's-Ears, 45 
Bedding, 166 

carpet, 191 

plants, 166 

spring, 203 

sub-tropical, 1S3 

summer, 166 

winter, 208 
Beds and borders, arrange- 
ment of Roses in, 97 
Beeches, 3S2 



INDEX. 



Beet, 169, 1052 

Chilian, 256 

Rust, 1053 

Victoria, 170 
Beetle, Apple Bark, 10S6 

Asparagus, 1049 

Fruit Iree Bark, 1090 

Pea, 1070 

Raspberry, 1039 
Begonias, 170, 645, 668, 738, 
750 

Bell, Canterbury, 256 
Belladonna Lily, 311 
Bending, 951 
Benthamia, 375 

fragifera, 472 
Berberidopsis, 471 
Berberis, berry-bearing, 45S, 
461 

deciduous, 369 

evergreen, 424 

pruning, 362 
Bergamot, 276 
Berry-bearing climbers, 464 

trees and shrubs, 457 
Bertolonia, 669 
Bessera, 316 

Beta Cicla variegata, 256 

vulgaris, 169 
Betel Nut. S13 
Betula, 370 

weeping sorts, 476 
Bhotan Pine, 507 
Biennials, 255. See "An- 
nuals " 
Biennial Stock, 252 
Bifurcation of walks, 22 
Bignonia, 467, 6S5, 757 
Biota, 517 

weeping sorts, 478 
Birches, 370 

weeping, 476 
Bird Cherry, 40T 
Bird-of- Paradise Flower, 746 
Bird's-eye Kot, 1015 
Bird's-foot Ivy, 474 
Bishop's Hood Echino- 

cactus, 794 
Biston, 1037 
Bitter Almond, 400 

Vetch, 277 
Blackberries, 9S9 
Black Birch, 370 

Broom. 37S 

Currants, 995 

Cytisus, 378 

Dolphin, 10S5 

Fly, 1052, 10S5 

Spot, 1075 

Spruce, North American, 
503 

Vine Weevil, 1098 

Walnut, 3S9 
Black-eyed Susan, 696 
Bladder Nuts, 414 

Plums, 1037 

Senna, 375 

Wort, 885 
Blandfordia, 293 
Blazing Star, 274 
Bleeding Heart, 269 
Blight, American, 1083 
Blister Mite, Pear Leaf, 1034 
Bloomeria, 316 
Blue Gum Tree, 189 

Himalayan Poppy, 258 

Marguerite, 706 

Moon wort, 301 



Blue Spruce, 504 

Water Hyacinth, 919 
Blueberries, 417 
Bocconia, 266, 895 
Bog Bean, 887 
Bollea, 582 
Bombyx, logo 
Bone manures, 1135 
Borassus, 815 
Bordeaux mixture, 1107 
Borders of vineries, 1009 
borecoles, 1053 
Boring insects, remedies 

against, 1082 
Borning-rods, 17 
Bougainvillea, 686 
Bouquet Stock, dwarf, 253 
Bourbon Roses, 118 
Boursault Roses, 121 
Box, species and varieties, 

427 

Thorns, 464, 467 
Brachycome, 245 
Brahea, 816 
Brambles, 410 
Brasenia, 882 
Prassavola, 592 
Bravoa, 316 
Brevoortia, 316 
Brexia, 669 
Bridgesia, 472 

Brindled Beauty Moth, 1037 
British ferns, dwarf, for exhi- 
bition, 56S 
ferns, tall, for exhi- 
bition, 569 
Briza, 217 

Broad-leaved Endive, 1063 
Broccoli, 1053 
Brodiaea, 317 
Brompton Stock, 258 
Brooms, 378 

Butcher's, 451, 461 

Etna, 384 

Rush, 411 

Spanish, 384, 411 
Browallia, 245 
Brownea, 669 
Brown Fruit Rot, mo 
Bruchus, 1070 
Bruckenthalia. 426 
Brunfelsia, 650 
Brunsvigia, 739 
Brush Bush, 3S1 
Brussels Sprouts, 1054 
Bryanthus, 426 
Brvobia, 1006 
Buck Bean, 887 
Buckthorn, Sea, 463 
Budding, flute, 970 

period for, 969 

propagation by, 969 

Roses, 95 

stocks for, 971 

T, 969 

treatment after union, 
970 

Buddleia, 427 
Buffalo Currant, 409 
Bug. Mealy, 1092 
Bulbs an'd Tubers, culti- 
vation, 304 

hardy, 303 

pests ot, 308 

planting, 305 

positions for, 306 

propagation, 305 

under trees, 307 



Bulbils, 948 
Bulbocodium, 318 
Bulbophyllum, 584 
Bulbous Irises, 334 
Bulrush, 889 

Bunches of grapes, thinning, 

1012 
Burbidgea, 647 
Burchellia, 6.17 
Burlingtonia, 592 
Burning Bush, 269 
Bush Honeysuckles, 380 
Plums, 1035 

Poppy, Californian, 281 
Butcher's Brooms, 451, 461 
Butomus, 866, 886 
Butterfly, Large White, 1055 
Buxus. 427 
Byturus, 1039 



C. 

Cabbage Aphis, 1056 

Fly, 1056 

Gall Weevil, 1056 

Moth, 1056, 1070 

Palm, 830 
Cabbages, 1055 

Pickling, 1055 

Red, 1055 

Savoy, 1055 

spring-sown, 1055 
Cabomba, 918 
Cacalia, 218 
Cacti, 7S7, 790 

culture. 790 

genera key, 789 

Hedgehog, 793 

insects, 788 

manures, 119 

Melon, 798 

propagation, 788 

Torch, 791 
Cactus Dahlias, 64, 66, 67 
Cssalpinia, 371 
Caladiums, 669 

aquatic, 926 
Calamus, 816 
Calandrinia, 218 
Calanthe, 584 
Calathus. 1045 
Calceolaria, 172, 707 , 
Calendula, 218 
Californian Azalea, 405 

Bush Poppy, 281 

Mammoth Tree, 512 

Poppy, 237 

Redwood, 513 
Calla aethiopica, 888 

palustris, 887 
Calliopsis, 219 
Callirhoe, 219 
Callistephus. 243 
Calocephalus, 193 
Calochortus, 318 
Calophaca, 371 
Caltha, S94 
Caltrops, Water, 884 
Calycanthus, 371 
Calyptrogyne, 817 
Camassia, 319 

Camellia -flowered Balsam, 
707 

Camellias outdoor, 473 
Campanula, 256, 267, 291, 708 

Hose-within-hose, 256 

Wanneri, 302 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Campylobotrys, 671 
Canary Creeper, 253 
Candytuft, 206 

Evergreen, 206 
Cane, Dumb, 673 
Canker, Apple, 984 
Cannas, 187, 739 

as aquatics, 925 
Canterbury Bell, 256 

Cup and baucer, 256 
Cape Cod Water Lily, 880 

Figwort, 279 

Forget-me-Xot, 256 

Honey Flower, 190 

Pond Weed, 881 
Capsicums. 1057 
Caragana, 371 

weeping sorts, 478 
Carbonate of lime, 1144 
Cardamine, 895 
Carnations, 52, 708 

classification, 54 

Crimson Bizarres, 57 

culture, 54 

Fancies, 58 

history, 43 

maggot on, 60 

Malmaison, 709 

pests, 56 

Pink Bizarres, 57 

preparing for exhi- 
bition, 56 

propagation, 55 

Purple Bizarres, 57 

Purple Flakes, 57 

Rose Flakes, 58 

Rust on, 59 

Scarlet Bizarres, 57 

Scarlet Flakes, 58 

Selfs, 58 

Show, 708 

Spot on, 57, 59 

Tree, 57, 708 

varieties, 57 
Carnivorous Slug, X096 
Carolina Allspice, 371 
Caroline Poplar, 398 
Carpenteria, 472 
Carpet bedding, 191 
Carpinus, 371 
Carpocapsa, 1087 
Carrot Fly, 1058 
Carrots, 1057 
Carya, 372 
Caryopteris, 372 
Caryota, 818 
Cascades, 36 
Cassandra, 42S 
Cassinia, 42S 
Castanea, 372. 994 

chrysophylla, 428 
Castanopsis, 428 
Castor-oil Plant, 251 
Catalpa, 372 
Catasetum, 592 
Catchfly, 238 

Caterpillars, Surface, 1071, 

1096 
Cat's-Tail, 890 
Cattleya. 593 
Caucasian Laurel, 428 

Walnut, 402 
Cauliflowers, 1058 
Ceanothus, 471 
Cedars, 483 

Incense, 502 

Japan, 488 

Red, 500 



Cedars, weeping, 478 

White, 396 
Cedrus, 483 

weeping sorts, 478 
Celastrus, 464 
Celery, 1059 

Fly, 1060 

Stem Fly, 1060 
Celosia, 173, 709 
Celsia, 256, 709 
Centaurea, 174, 193, 219, 267 
Centropogon, 647 
Cephalotaxus, 486 
Cephalotus, 632 
Cerastium, 193, 291 
Cerasus, 399 

Lauro-Cerasus, 42S 

weeping sorts, 476 
Ceratolobus, 819 
Ceratopteris, 918 
Ceratozamia, 855 
Cercis, 373 
Cereus, 791 
Ceroxylon, 819, 829 
Cestrum, 757 
Chalk as manure, 1144 
Chamaebuxus, 445 
Chamaedorea, S20 
Chamaepeuce, 193, 257 
Chamaerops, 823, 825 

excelsa, 451 

Fortunei, 451 
Chafer, Rose, 1087 
Characteristics of an insect, 

1079 
Charieis. 230 
Cheddar Pink, 292 
Cheimatobia, iioo 
Cheiranthus, 259 
Chelone, 267, 278 
Chemical manures, 1133 
Cheminement, tracing by, 11 
Cherries, 989 

Cordons, 990 

ornamental species and 
varieties, 399 

pests, 993 

pruning, 990 

soil, 989 

under glass, 992 

varieties, 991, 993 

weeping, 476 
Cherry Aphis, 1085 

Birch, 370 

Cornelian, 376 

Winter, 279 
Chestnuts, 994 

Horse, 25, 366 

Spanish, 372 

Water, 884 
Chewing Insects, Paris 

Green for, loSi 
Chickweed, Golden, 195 
Chicory, 1061 
Chilian Beet, 256 
Chili Pine. 483 
Chillies, 1057 
Chimonanthus, 361, 46S 
China Aster, 243 
Chinese Arbor Vitas, 51S 

Lantern, 279 

Pink, 224 

Smilax, 471 
Chionanthus, 361 
Chionodoxa, 319 
Chloride of potash. 1143 
Chlorophytum, 751 
Choisya, 429 



Christmas Rose. 320, 329 
Chrysalidocarpus, 824 
Chrysanthemums, 136, 220, 
267, 280, 709 

Early-flowering, 159 

Early-flowering Japan- 
ese, 160 

Early-flowering Pom- 
pone, 161 

Late - flowering Ane- 
mone, 155 

Late-flowering, culture- 
of, 137 

Late-flowering hairy, 149 

Late-flowering In- 
curved, 151 

Late-flowering Japanese, 
143 

Late-flowering Japanese 
Anemone, 156 

Late - flowering Pom- 
pone-Anemone. 157 

Late-flowering Reflexed, 

154 
pests, 161 

Single, late-flowering, 150 

Tricolor, 220 
Chrysanthenmm - flowered 
Anemone, 314 

Aster, dwarf, 244 
Chysis, 597 
Cidaria, 99S 
Cineraria, 174 712 
Cinquefoil, 280 
Circles, tracing, 15 
Circumposition, propagation 

by, 953 
Cirrhopetalum, 597 
Cissus, 687 
Cistus, 429 
Cladium, 887 
Cladius, 1094 
Cladosporium, 1076 
Clammy Honeysuckle, 405 

Locust, 410 
Clanbrassil's Spruce, 503 
Clarkia, 221 

Clay-coloured Vine Weevil, 
109S 

Clematises, climbing, 469 

non-climbing, 374 

pruniuij, 362 
Clerodendron, 374, 648, 687 
Clethra, 375, 
Clianthus, 758 
Climbers, greenhouse. 6S3 

stove, 683 

berry-bearing. 464 
Climbing Ferns, 562 

shrubs. 464 

Tea Roses, 104 
Clintonia, 246 
Clivia. 64S, 653, 740, 745 
Club-Root, mo 
Cluster Pine, 50S 
Cobaea, 758 
Cockchafers, 1086 
Cockroaches. 622, 10S7 
Cockscomb, 709 
Cockspur Thorn, 461 
Cocoanut, 827 

Double, 838 
Coco de Mer, 838 
Cocos. 825 
Codiaeum. 671 
Codhng Moth, 10S7 
Coecus, 1092 
Coelogyne. 597 



INDEX. 



Coffee Tree, Kentucky, 385 
Colchic Laurel, 428 
Colchicum, 320 
Coleus, 175, 751 
Colletotrichum, 1052 
Collinsia, 222 
CoUomia, 223 
Colocasia, 926 
Columbine, 264, 268 

Rocky Mountains, 265 
Colutea, 371, 375 
Combretum, 687 
Complete fertilisers, 1135 
Composts for cuttings, 955 
Concrete bottom for lakes, 38 
Cone-Flower, 281 
Conifers, 480 

grouping, 28, 29 

planting, 29 

pruning, 363 

transplanting, 360 

weeping, 478 
Constituents of plant-food, 

Continental gardens, 20, 25 
Contra-curve, tracing, 12 
Convallaria, 321 
Convolvulus, 223 
Cool Fernery : 

Ferns for cork blocks 

in, 565 
Ferns for walls of, 567 
hanging-baskets for, 566 
Cool Orchids, 611 
Copper carbonate, ammoni- 
acal solution of, 1108 
Copper sulphate solution, 
1 108 

Coral Berry, 471 
Corchorus, 390, 465 
Cordon Apples, 980 

Cherries, 990 

Pears, 1028 

Plums, 1035 
Cordyline, 751 
Coreopsis, 223, 268 
Cork, growing F'erns on, 546 

Oak, 446 
Corn Flag, 329 

Marigold, 221 

Poppy, 236 
Cornelian Cherry, 376 
Cornflower, 219 
Cornish Heath, 434 
Cornus, 375 

Weeping, 478 
Corsican Pine, 508 
Corydalis, 291 
Corylopsis, 468 
Corylus, 376 
Corypha, 827 
Cosmos, 246, 713 
Cossignia, 671 
Cossus, IIOI 

Cotoneasters, berry-bearing, 
460, 462 

climbing, 472 
Country house, site for, 7 
Cow manure, 1122, 1125, 1126 
Crabs, 994 

Siberian, 403 

Sweet-scented, 403 
Crane Flies, 1091 
Cratffigus hedges, 33 

berry-bearers, 459, 461 

climbers, 471 

pruning, 362 

species and varieties, 376 



Creeper, Canary, 253 
Creeping Jenny, 892 
Cress, 1066 

Indian, 254 

Violet, 230 
Crested Ferns, 560 
Crimson Flag, 348 
Crinum, 321, 648, 740 
Crocosmia, 322 
Crocus, 322 

Indian, 607 
Croesus, 1025, 1094 
Croton, 671 
Crowberry, 433 
Crowfoot, 347 
Crown Daisy, 221 

Imperial, 327 
Crown of road, 23 
Cryptomeria, 488 
Cryptophoranthus, 611 
Cuckoos and Hairy Cater- 
pillars, 1064 
Cucumbers, 1061 
Cucumber Tree, 394 
Cunninghamia, 488 
Cup and Saucer Canter- 
bury Bell, 256 
Cuphea, 713 
Cupressus, 488 

disticha, 515 

weeping sorts, 478 
Curculigo, 672 
Curculionidae, 1098 
Curious Ferns, 563 
Curl, Peach, 1027 
Curly-leaved Palm, 832 
Currant Aphis, 1085 

Bud Mite, 998 

Clearwing Sloth, 998 

Shoot Moth, 998 
Currants, 994 

Black, 995 

Buffalo, 409 

flowering, 408 

pests, 997 

Red, 996 

White, 996 
Curves, alternate, 21 

tracing, 10 
Cushion Pink, 301 
Cuttings after rooting, treat- 
ment of, 961 

composts for, 955 

eye, 958 

general treatment of, 961 

inserting, 956 

leaf, 959 - 

propagation by, 954 

root, 960 

Roses from, 94 

stem, 959 

terminal, 958 

when to take, 957 
Cyanophyllum, 672 
Cycads (Cycas), 807, 854, 856 
Cyclamen, 324, 740 
Cyclobothras, 318 
Cycnoches, 597 
Cydonia, 362 

climbing sorts, 464 
Cymbidium, 598 
Cyperus, 752, 892 

aquatic sorts, 919 
Cypresses (Cupressus), 488 

deciduous, 515 

Patagonian, 496 

weeping, 478 
Cypripedium, 599 



Cyrtopodium, 601 
Cytisus, 378, 390 



D. 

Daboecia, 430 
Daddy Long-legs, 109 1 
Daemonorops, S28 
Daffodils, 343 

Sea, 346 

Winter, 350 
Dahlias, 62 

Cactus, 64, 66, 67 

culture, 65 

history, 63 

Juarezii, 64 

pests, 68 

pot-roots, 66 

preparing for exhibition, 
68 

propagation, 66 

show, 64 

variabilis, 62 
Daisy, 206 

Bush, 443 

Crown, 22r 

Michaehnas, 265 

Russian, 2S0 

Swan River, 245 
Dame's Violet. 273 
Damping-off Disease, mo 
Damsons, 999, 1034 
Danaea, 451 
Daphne, 379, 431 

berry-bearing sorts, 463 
Daphniphyllum, 432 
Darlingtonia, 631 
Dates, 840 

Datura, 188, 246, 713 

Day Lily, 330, 895 

Dead Tree Ferns, method 

of utilising, 546 
Deciduous berry-bearing 
shrubs, 461 
Cypress, 515 
trees and shrubs, 363 
wall shrubSj 464 
weeping trees and 
shrubs, 476 
Decorative Ferns, 526 

Palms, 808 
Delphiniums, 230, 268 

Hyacinth-flowered, 230 
Ranunculus - flowered, 
230 

Stock-flowered, 230 
Dendrobium, 585 
Dendrocalamus, 863 
Dendrochilum, 590 
Denitrification, 1132 
Desfontainea, 472 
Designing gardens, 5. See 
" Landscape Gar- 
dening " 
Desmodium, 391 
Desmoncus, 829 
Deutzia, 379 
Devil-in-a-Bush, 235 
Diacrium, 591 
Dianthus, 224, 258, 292 

Caryophyllus, 52 

plumarius, 60 
Dicentra, 269 
Dichorisanda, 672 
Dictamnus, 269 
Dictyosperma, 829 
Didymocarpus, 648 

4 I 



ii86 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Dieffenbachias, 673 
as aquatics, 926 
Dielytra, 270 
Diervilla, 380 

Diloba coeruleocephala, 984 
Dimorphanthus, 369 
Diqnaea, 636 
Dioon, 856 
Diplacus, 714 
Dipladenia, 688 
Diplopappus, 428 
Diplosis, 1033 
Diplotheinium, 829 
Direct view, arranging, 34 
Disa, 611 

Disbudding Peaches, 1026 
Division of plants, propa- 
gation by, 947 
Dog's Tooth Violet, 326 
Dogwoods, 375 

weeping, 478 
Doronicum, 270 
Double Cocoanut, 838 

Dropwort, 283 

Groundsel, 252 

Sneezewort, 264 
Douglas Fir, 511 
Dove Orchid, 590 
Downingia, 246 
Draba, 292 
Dracaena, 673, 752 
Draining lawns, walks, &c., 
39 

Drainings, manurial, 1130 
Drains in roads, 23 
Draught and frost, effect of, 
on room plants, 762 
Drives, 18, 22 
Drooping Ferns, 561 

trees and shrubs, 476 
Dropwort, Double, 283 
Drosera, 634 
Dryas, 292 
Dumb Cane, 673 
Dung, 1 12 1. See " Manures " 
Dust on room plants, 763 
Dusty Miller, 45 
Dwarf Beans, 1051 

bedding stock, 252 

Blueberry, 417 

Bouquet Stock, 263 

Chrysanthemum- 
flowered Asters, 244 

June Berry, 36S 

Lupin, 234 

Queen Aster, 245 

Reed Mace, 890 



E. 

Early - flowering Chrysan- 
themums, 159 
Japanese Chrysanthe- 
mums, 160 
Pompone Chrysanthe- 
mums, 161 

Earwigs, 1089 

Eccremocarpus, 758 

Echeveria, 194 

Echinocactus, 793 

Economic properties of 
Palms, 807 

Edelweiss, 293 

Eelworms, 1062, 1089 

Egyptian Lotus Lily, 896, 904, 
907, 911, 914, 922 
Paper Reed, 919 



Eichhornia, 919 
Elaeagnus, 432 

berry-bearing, 462 

pungens, 472 
Elaeis, 830 
Elders, 411 

berry-bearing, 462 
Elecampane, 273 
Elisma, 8S2 
Ellipses, tracing, 15 
Elms, 416 

weeping, 476 
Empetrum, 433 
Emulsion, Kerosene, 1081 
Encephalartos, 856 
Encrusted Saxifrages, 298 
Endive, Broad-leaved, 1063 

Round-leaved, 1063 
English Iris, 331 

Yew, 516 
Enkianthus, 381 
Entrances, 17 
Epi-Cattleya, 602 
Epidendrum, 591, 602, 606 
Epi-L«lia, b02 
Epilobium, 270, 293 

waterside sorts, 894 
Epimedium, 293 
Epiphronitis, 603 
Epiphyllum, 796 
Equisetum, 892 
Eranthenmm, 674 
Eranthis, 324 
Ercilla spicata, 472 
Eremurus, 325 
Erianthus, i:93 
Erica, 433 
Erigeron, 270 
Erinus, 293 
Eriobotrya, 434 
Eriocampa, 993 
Eriocnema, 675 
Eryngium, 270 
Erysimum, 206, 225 
Erysiphese, irii 
Erythraea, 293 
Erythronium, 326 
Escallonia, 434 

climbing sorts, 470 
Etna Broom, 384 
Eucalyptus, 189, 435, 752 
Eucharidium, 225 
Eucharis, 649 
Eucryphia, 381 
Eudianthe, 215 
Euialia, 752, 893 
Euonymus, berry - bearing 
sorts, 461 

climbing sorts, 472 
Eupatorium, 649, 715 
Euphorbia, 649 
European Box Thorn, 464 
Eurya, 472 
Euryale, 906, 917 
Eurybia, 435 

Gunniana, 471 
Euterpe, 830 
Eutoca, 225 

Evening Primrose, 276 
Evergreen berry-bearers, 457 
Candytuft, 206 
climbing shrubs, 470 
Roses, 120 

trees and shrubs, 419 
wall shrubs, 470 
weeping trees and 
shrubs, 476 
Everlastings, 229 



Everlastings, Winged, 216 
Excrements, ii2x 
Exhibition Apples, 981 

British Ferns, dwarf, 568 
British Ferns, tall, 569 
hardy exotic Ferns, 569 
Roses, 108 

Roses, Hybrid Per- 
petuals, 110 

stove Ferns, 567 
Exoascus, 1027 
Exochorda, 381, 468 
Exotic Fernery, 534 
Eye-cuttings, 95S 



F. 

Fabiana, 435 
Fagus, 382 

weeping sorts, 477 
Fair Maids of F'rance 
False Heath, 435 

Indigo, 368 
Fancy ways of growing 

Ferns, 543 
Farmyard manure, 1122, 1127 
Feathered Hyacinth, 341 
Feather, Golden, 2S0 
Feeding Grapes, 1013 

plants, 1 1 14. See 
" Manures " 
Fennel, 1063 
Fern-case. 547 
Fernery. Exotic, 534 

hardy. 528 

unheated, 522 
Fern-leaved Sumach, 407 
Ferns, 523 : 

as room plants, 781 

climbing, 562 

crested, 560 

cultivation, 528 

curious. 563 

decorative, 526 

drooping, 561 

dwarf British, for exhi- 
bition, 568 

exhibition greenhouse, 
56S 

exhibition stove, 567 
exotic Fernery, 534 
fancy ways of growing, 
543 

Filmv or Transparent, 

561 

for cork blocks, 565 
for cutting, 571 
for hanging-baskets, 545, 
564 

for special purposes, 557 
for walls of cool Fernerv, 

567 

for walls of warm 
Fernery, 566 

geographical distribu- 
tion, 524 

gigantic Non-Arbore- 
scent, 558 

Gold and Silver, 560 

hanging-baskets for cool 
Ferner}', 566 

hardy exotic, for exhi- 
bition, 569 

hardy Fernery, 529 

hardy kinds for Fern- 
cases, 569 

hardy room, 569 



INDEX. 



Ferns, hybrid garden, 552 
on cork, 546 
on walls, 565 
porous bottles, 547 
pot, 539 
proliferous, 564 
propagation, 54S 
repotting, 539 
shading, 534 
small. 559 

tall British, for exhibi- 
tion, 569 
tinted, 559 
trailing, 562 
Transparent, 561 
Tree, 557 

unhealed Fernery, 522 

variegated, 560 

variety of, 526 

viviparous, 564 

Wardian case, 547 

waterside, 893 
Fertilisers. See " Manures " 
Festuca heterophylla, 42 
Feverfew, Common, 280 
Fibrous-rooted Begonia, 171 
Ficus, 189, 675, 688, 752 
Figs, outdoor, 999 

pests, 1003 

under glass, looi 
Figure-of-Eight Moth, 983 
Figwort, Cape, 279 
Filing-off seeds, 944 
Film}- Ferns, 561 
Finger and Toes, 1056, mo 
Fire-Thorn, 459 
Firs, Douglas, 511 

Grecian, 480 

Hemlock, 521 

Scotch, 509 

Silver, 480 

Spruce, 502 

weeping, 478 
Fish-bone Thistle. 257 
Fittonia, 675 
Fitzroya, 496 
Flag, Corn, 329 

Crimson, 34S 

Iris, 331 

Sweet, 886 

Yellow, 887 
Flame Flower, 335 
Flamingo Flower, 645 
Flax, Alpine, 274 

Lily, 753 

Red, 233 
Flea, Turnip, 1076 
Flies, Crane, 1091 
Flora's Paint-brush, 218 
Florists' Flowers, 43 : 

Auriculas, 45 

Carnations, 52 

Dahlias, 62 

Gladioli, 81 

Hollyhocks, 89 

Pansies, 69 

Picotees, 52 

Pinks, 60 

Polyanthuses, 87 

Ranunculuses, 85 

Tulips, 75 

Violas, 72 
Flowering Ashes, 383 

Currants, 408 

Fern, 893 

Rush, 866, 886 
Flower of the West Wind, 
355 



Flowers, analysis of, 1119 
Flute-budding, 970 
Fly, Black, 1085 

Cabbage, 1056 

Carrot, 1058 

Celery, 1060 

Celery Stem, 1060 

Green, 1085 

Onion, 1067 

Parsnip, 1060 

Snowy, 1056 

Turnip, 1076 
Fly-trap, Venus's, 636 
Food requirements of 

plants, II 16 
Forcing, 927: 

herbaceous plants, 935 

herbs, 933 

ornamental plants, 933 

salad plants, 932 

Strawberries, 1043 

trees and shrubs, 936 

urine for, 1127 

vegetables, 927 
Forficula, 1089 
Forget-me-Not, 207, 296, 895 

Cape, 256 
Forking of walks, 22 
Forsythia, pruning, 362 

species and varieties, 
382 

Fothergilla, 383 
Fountain basins for aqua- 
tics, 874 
Fox-Brush Orchid, 578 
Fox-Tail Pine, 504 
Fragrant Rosemary, 451 
Frames, 700 
Franciscea, 650 
Fraxinella, 269 
Fraxinus, 383 
Freesia, 742 
Fremontia, 469 
French Gardens, 19 

Honeysuckle, 257 

Kidney Beans, 105 1 

Marigold, 247 

Poppy, 236 
Fringe Tree, 373 
Fringed Water Lily, 883 
Fritillaria, 326, 327 
Frogbit, 882 
Fruit culture, 973 

manures for, 1144 
Fruit Rot, Brown, iiio 

Tree Bark Beetle, 1090 
Fruits, composition of, 11 18 
Fuchsia, 175, 384 
Fungi, heteroecious, 1104 

Parasitic, preventive 
measures against, 
1105 

Hollyhock, 1112 

Slime, mo 
Funkia, 327 

waterside sorts, 892 
Furze, 452 
Fusarium, 1075 
Fusicladium, 1108 



G. 

Gaillardia, 176, 225, 271 
Galanthus, 328 
Galax, 293 
Galega, 271 
Galtonia, 32S 



Garden Dart Moth, 1096 

Ferns, hybrid, 552 

Tulips, 75. S^e" Tulips" 
Gardenia, 650 
Garland flowers, 431 
Garrya, 472 
Gas-lime, 1144 
Gaultheria, 458 
Gaylussacia, 3S4 
Gazania, 176 
Genista, 384 

Andreana, 378 
Gentiana, 293 
Gentianella, 294 
Geonoma, 830 
Geranium, 176 
German Wallflower, 259 
Gesnera, 650, 657 
Geum, 271, 294 
Ghent Azaleas, 405 
Giant Brompton Stock, 258 

Oriental Poppy, 277 
Gigantic Non-Arborescent 

Ferns, 558 
Gilead, Balm of, 480 
Gilia, 226 

Milfoil-leaved, 226 
Gingerbread Palm, 833 
Ginkgo, 497 
Gladiolus, 81 

culture, 81 

cutting, 83 

gandavensis, 81 

history, 81 

propagation, 81, 83 

" spawn," 84 

species, 329, 743 
Glaucium, 257 
Gleditschia, 385 
Globe Artichokes, 1049 

Flower, Orange, 285 

Flowers, 895 
Gloeo'porium, 985, 1015 
Gloneria, 651 
Gloriosa, 689 

Glory Pea of Australia, 758 
Gloxinia, 651, 743 
Gnaphalium, 294 
Goat's Beard, 282 
Godetia, 227 

Gold and Silver Ferns, 560 
Golden Alyssum, 205 

Bamboo, 424 

Barked Ash, 383 

Chickweed, 195 

Club, 883 

Elder, 411 

Feather, 176, 280 

Honeysuckle, Japanese, 
472 

Larch, 510 

Rod, 282 

Scotch Fir, 509 

Tom Thumb Wall- 
flower, 259 
Goldfussia, 652 
Goodyera, 584 
Gooseberries, 1003 
Gooseberry and Currant 
Sawfly, 998 

Mildew, 1006 

Mite, 1006 
Gorse, 452 
Gourds, 1077 

Grafting by approach, 964 
half-cleft, 966 
herbaceous, 965 
propagation by, 962 



4 I 2 



ii88 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Grafting, saddle, 964 

season, 963 

stocks, 962 

tongue, 963 

wedge, 964 

whip, 963 
Grafts after union, treat- 
ment of, 967 

management of, 966 
Grammanthes, 246 
Grammatophyllum, 590 
Grape Hyacinth, 341 
Grapes, borders of Vineries. 
1009 

feeding, 1013 

keeping, 1013 

outdoor, 1006 

pests, 1014 

propagation, 1013 

pruning, 1013 

stopping shoots, loii 

thinning berries, loii 

thinning bunches, 1012 

under glass, 1007 

varieties of, 1012 

ventilation, 1012 

Vineries, 1009 
Grapholitha, 1070 
Grasses for shadj' places, 42 

waterside. 893 
Grass of Parnassus, S95 

Pampas, 1S4 

Quaking, 217 

seed, sowing, 40 

Silk, 456 
Great Reed, 420 

Reed Mace. 890 

Sea Lavender, 284 

Spearwort. 8SS 
Grecian Fir, 480 
Green-fl}', 713, 10S5 
Greenhouse : 

climbers, 6S3 

exhibition Ferns, 5 68 

frames for fiurnishing. 700 

growing-houses for, 699 

hard-wooded plants, 720 

heating. 700 

ornamental fohage 
plants, 747 

pests, 705 

pillar plants, 683 

plants, 696 

plants, cultivation of, 

702 

shading for. 700 

soft-wooded plants, 705 

structure of, 698 

ventilation, 701 

wall plants, 683 

wall, tanks for, 702 
Green manuring, 1144 
Griselinia, 436 
Grevillea, 189, 752 
Groundsel. Double, 252 
Groundwork in landscape- 
gardening, 33 
Grouping of trees, 26, 28 
Growing-houses for green- 
house, 699 
Guano, artificial, 1140 

natural. 1139 
Guelder Rose, 418, 462 
Guernsey Lih", 345 
Gum Cistus. 429 

Tree, 435 

Tree, Sweet, 391 
Gunnera, 891 



Gymnocladus, 385 
G}"mnosporangium, 1034, 

1112 
Gynerium, 893 
G}"psophila, 227, 272, 294 



H. 

Hairy Chrysanthemums, 
late-flowering, 149 

Halesia, 3S5 

Half-cleft grafting, 966 

Half-hardy annuals, 240 

Hahmodendron, 3S6 

Hamamelis, 386 

Hanging-baskets for Ferns, 
545- 564. 566 
plants for. 720 

Harbinger Wallflower, 259 

Hardy annuals. 212 

annuals, treatment of. 
214 

aquatics, 867 

bulbs and tubers, 303 

bulbs and tubers, culti- 
vation of, 304 

exotic Ferns for exhi- 
bition, 569 

Fernery, 529 

Ferns for cases, 569 

herbaceous perennials, 
260 

herbaceous perennials, 
propagation of, 263 

herbaceous perennials, 
uses of, 260 

Orchids, 617 

room Ferns, 569 
Harpalium, 272 
Harpalus, 1045 
Hartstongue Fern, S94 
Hawkweed, 229 
Hawthorn, Winter, 881 
Hazels, Witch, 386 
Heart and Dart Moth. 1096 
Heartsease, 69. See " Pan- 

sies " 
Heaths, 433 

F'alse, 435 

Prickly, 45S 

St. Dabeoc's, 430 
Heath-hke Yew, 516 
Heathworts, 426 
Heating, 700 
Hea ven. Tree of. 367 
Hebeclinium. 649 
Hedera, berry-bearing varie- 
ties, 459 

HeUx hibernica, 42 

wall plants, 474 
Hedgehog Cactus, 793 

HolHes, 436, 439 
Hedges, planting. 33 

shrubs for, 33 
Hedychiums, 652 

as aquatics, 925 
Hedysarum, 257, 386 
Hedyscepe, 832 
Heeling, propagation by, 

.952 
Helenium. 216, 272 
Heliamphora, 631 
Helianthemum, 436 
Helianthus, 227, 272 
Helichrj'sum, 229 
Heliconia, 675 
Heliopsis, 273 



Heliotrope. 176. 715 
Helipterum. 246 
Helleborus. 320. 329 
Hemerocallis. 330. 895 
Hemiptera Heteroptera, 622 
Hemlock Firs, 521 
Hen manure. 1129 
Herbaceous grafting. 965 

hardy perennials, 260 

plants, forcing. 935 
Herb Lily. 311 
Herbs, 1063 

forcing. 933 
Hemiaria. 194 
Herpestis. 921 
Hesperis. 273 
HeiercEcious Fungi, 1104 
Heuchera. 273 
Hibbertia, 75S 
Hibiscus. 3S6, 652 
Hieracium. 229 
Hillocks, removing. 33 
Himalayan Honeysuckle, 391 

Poppy. Blue. 258 
Hippeastfum, 643, 653, 738, 
744 

Hippophae, berrv - bearing, 

462 

Hofifmannia. 671 

Holboelha. 474 

Hollies. 436 

Aquifolium varieties, 438 
berr^-bearing varieties, 
459 

Golden-leaved. 438 

Green-leaved. 437 

Silver-leaved. 439 

weeping. 479 
Hollyhocks, 89 

Fungus on, 90, 1112 

history, 89 

pests, 90. 92 

propagation. 91 

wintering, 90 
Holm Oak. 446 
Holy Ghost Orchid. 590 
Home-made insecticide. loSi 
Honesty. 257 

Honey Flower. Cape, 190 

Plant. 690 
Honeysuckle, 392 

Bush. 3S0 

Clammy. 405 

Climbing. 46S 

Early-flowering, 468 

French. 257 

Himalayan. 391 

Japanese Golden, 472 

Trumpet, 471 
Hoop Petticoat Narcissus, 
343 

Hop. Japanese, 229 
Hop-tree. 402 
Hornbeams. 371 
Horned Poppj', 257 

Violet, 73 
Horse Chestnut. 25. 366 

manure, 1122, 1125, 1126 

Radish, 1063 
Horsetails, S92 
Hose - within - Hose Cam- 
panulas. 256 
Hottonia, SS2 

Hot-water as an insecticide, 
1081 

Houseleeks, 300 
House, site for, 7 
Howea, 832 



INDEX. 



1189 



Hoya, 6go 

Humea, 190, 257. 715 
Humulus, 229 
Humus, 1115, 1144, 1146 
Hungarian Lotus, 915 

Speedwell, 302 
Hyacinths, 331 

Feathered. 341 

Grape, 341 

in water, 919 

Roman, 934 

Spanish. 331 
Hyacinth-iiowered Delphi- 
niums, 230 
Hj'acinthus, 328, 331 
Hybernia, 1093 
Hybrid garden Ferns, 552 

Perpetual Koses, no, 
112 

Tea-scented Roses, 105, 
III 

Hybridisation of Orchids, 
618 

Hydrangeas, pruning. 363 

species and varieties, 387 
Hydrocharis, 882 
Hydrocleys, 8S2, 921 
Hydrolea. 921 
Hydropeltis, 882 
Hymenanthera, 45S 
Hymenoxys, 230 
Hyophorbe, 833 
Hypericum, 388, 436 
H\-phsne, 833 
H>-ponomeuta, 985 



I. 

Iberis, 206, 294 
Ice Plant, 24S 
Iceland Poppy, 25S 
Idesia, 38S 
Ilex, 436 

berry-bearing varieties, 

459 
hedges, 33 
weeping sorts, 479 
Imantophyllum, 653, 740, 

745 

Impatiens. 245, 653, 706 
Incense Cedar, 502 
Inclined ground, tracing on, 
16 

Incurved Chrysanthemums, 

late-flowering, 151 
Indian Cress, 254 

Crocus, 607 

Fig, 799 

Horse-chestnut, 367 
Sacred Bean, 922 

Indiarubber Plant, 675, 752 

Indigo, False, 36S 

Indigofera. 468 

Insect, characteristics of, 
1079 
friends, 1083 

Insects, hard-bodied. 1082 
root-feedin-', loSo 
wood-feeding, 1080, iioi 

Insecticide, home - made, 
1081 

hot-water as an, loSi 
Insectivorous plants. 624 
Insertion of cuttings, 
method of, 956 
growing point, propa- 
gation by, 953 



Intermediate house Orchids, 

592 

Stock, 252 
Inula, 273 
lonopsidium, 230 
Ipomcea, 248, 692 
Iresine, 177 
Iriartea, 833 
Iris, 331 

Bearded, 332 

Bulbous, 334 

English, 331 

Flag, 331 

Rhizomatous, 333 

Siberian, 332 

Spanish, 331 

waterside sorts, 894 
Irish Furze, 452 

Ivy, 42 

Tuniper, 498 

Yew, 516 
Iron Tree, 396 
Isolated trees, planting, 31 
Isolepis, 676, 753 
Isolomas, 662 
Isosoma, 621 
Italian IMay, 412 

Yellow Jasmine, 467 
Itea, 389 

Ivies as wall plants, 474 
berry-bearing, 460 
for shady places, 42 
Irish, 42 
Prickly, 470 

Ivory Thistle, 271 

Ivy-leaved Pelargonium, 716 

Ixia. 335 

Ixiolirion, 335 

Ixora, 653 

J- 

Jacaranda, 676 
Jacobsea, 247 
Jacob's Ladder, 279 
Jamesia, 389 
Japan Cedar, 488 
Japanese Anemone Chrys- 
anthemums, Late- 
flowering, 156 
Bramble. 410 
Chrysanthemums, Early- 
flowering, 160 
Golden Honeysuckle, 472 
Hemlock Fir, 522 
Hop, 229 

Late-flowering Chrys- 
anthemums, 143 
Alaple, 365 
Rose, 464 

Snowball Tree, 419 

Witch Hazel, 386 
Jasminum, 362. 692 

climbing sorts, 466 
Jersey Ivy, 476 
Jerusalem Artichokes, 1049 

Pine, 507 

Sage. 444 
Jew's Mallow, 389 
Jubaea. S33 
Judas Tree, 373 
Juglans, 389 
J uncus, 893 
June Berry, 368 
Junipers, 497 

weeping, 478 
Jussieua, 921 
Justicia, 654 



K. 

Kaffir Lily, 348 
Kainit, 1143 
Kales, 1053 
Kalmia, 440 

site for, 32 
Kaulfussia, 230 
Keeping nuts, 1024 
Kentia, 834 
Kentiopsis, 834 
Kentucky Coffee Tree, 385 
Kerosene emulsion, 1081 
Kerria, 389 

climbing, 465 

White, 407 
Kew, lake at, 42 
Key to Cactus genera 789 
Kilmarnock Weeping Wil 

low, 477 
Kleinia, 194 
Knap Hill Cypress, 491 
Knight's Cypress, 490 
Kniphofia, 335, 895 
Koeniga, 216 



L. 

Labia, 10S9 
Labrador Tree, 441 
Laburnum, 390 

weeping, 478 
Lace-bark Pine, 504 
Lace-leaf Plant, gi8 
Lachenalia, 745 
Lackey Moth, 1090 
Ladder, Jacob's, 279 
L^lia, 592, 603 
Laelio-Cattleya, 603 
Lake at Kew, 42 
Lakes, 36, 38 

concrete bottom for, 38 

constructing, 37 
Lampronia, 998, 1039 
Laxdscape Gardening, 3 : 

approaches, 17 

Continental, 20, 23 

draining, 39 

drives, 18 

French, 20 

groundwork, 33 

lawns, 39, 41'. 

levels and levelling, 17, 
36 

paths, 21 
planting, 25 

preliminary operations, 7 

shaded places, 42 

tennis-grounds, 41 

tracing, 8 

verges, 41 

walks, 21 

water, 36 
Lantana. 178 
Lapageria, 738 
Lapeyrousia, 315 
Larches, 501 

Golden, 510 
Large-leaved Saxifrages, 299 
Large Trumpet Daffodil, 
343 

White Butterfly, 1055 
Larix, 501 

Keempferi, 310 

weeping, 478 
Larkspur, 230, 26S, 273 
Lasiandra, 634 



1 190 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Lasius, 1085 
Lasthenia, 231 
Latania, 834 

Late-flowering Chrysanthe- 
mums, cuhure of, 137 
Hairy Chrysanthemums, 
149 

Incurved Chrysanthe- 
mums, 151 

Japanese Chrysanthe- 
mums, 143 

Japanese Anemone 
C h r V s a nthemums, 
156 

Pompone Anemone 
C h r y s a nthemums, 
157 

Reflexed Chrysanthe- 
mums, 154 

Single Chrysanthe- 
mums, 150 
Lathyrus, 231. 274 
Lattice-leaf Plant, 909, 918 
Laurels, 428 

Alexandrian, 45r 

American Mountain, 440 

Sheep, 440 

Spurge, 432 

Swamp, 440 
Laurus, 440 
Laurustinus, 454 
Lavatera. 190, 232. 257 
Lavender, Great Sea, 284 
Laverna, 983 
Lavia, 232 

Lawns, improving, 41 
manure for, 40, 41 
mowing, 41 
preparing, 40 
rolling, 41 
turf for, 41 
varieties of, 39 
watering, 41 
weeds on, 41 

Lawson's C>T)re?s, 490 

Layering, above-ground, 953 
period for, 954 
underground, 953 

Lavia, 232 

Lead Plant, 368 

Leaf Curl, Potato, 1071 
cuttings, 959 
Rust of Pear, 1034 
Rust of Tomato, 1076 
Spot of Strawberries, 
1046 

Leather Jackets, 1071, 1091 
Lebanon, Cedar of, 485 
Ledum, 440 

buxifolium, 441 
Leea, 676 
Leeks, 1063 
Leiophyllum, 441 
Lembotropsis, 378 
Lemon - scented Verbena, 

469. 750 
Lenten Rose, 329 
Leontopodium, 293, 294 
Leptosiphon, 232 
Lespedeza, 391 
Lesser May Bug, 1086 

Reed Mace, 889 
Lettuce, 1064 

Water, 923 
Leuchtenbergia, 796 
Leucoium, 337 
Leucophoea, 1087 
Leucophyton, 193 



Leucothoe, 441 
Levelling, 36 
Levels, fixing, 17 
Leycesteria, 391 
Liatris, 274 

Libocedrus chilensis, 502 
Libonia, 654 
Lice, plant, 1085 
Lichen, iiii 
Licuala, 835 
Ligustrum, 441 
Lilacs, 415 
Lilies, Day, 895 
Swamp, 895 

Water, 876, 883, 896, 
903, 911 
LiUum, 338, 745 

auratum, with American 
plants, 33 
Lily, African, 310 

Belladonna, 311 

Day, 330 

disease, 308 

Flax, 753 

Guernsey, 345 

Herb, 311 

Kaffir, 348 

Lotus, 896, 904, 907, 911, 
914, 922 

Madonna, 339 

Mariposa, 318 

Mount Etna, 350 

of the Nile, 888 

of the Valley, 321 

Peruvian, 311 

Plantain, 327 

St. Bernard, 315 

St. Bruno, 315 

Scarborough, 355, 747 

Torch, 335 

Turk's Cap, 339 

Wood, 352 
Lime, carbonate of, 1144 

chief sources of, 1143 

gas, 1 1 44 

quick, I 144 
Limes, 416 

weeping, 47S 
Limnanthemum, 883 

indicum, 922 
Limnanthes, 232 
Limnobinm, 922 
Limnocharis, 882 

emarginata, 922 

Humboldtii, 921 

Plumieri, 922 
Linaria, 233, 274. 294 
Linden Tree, 416 
Line, tracing with, 14 
Linum, 233, 274, 295, 654 
Lippia, 469 
Liquidambar, 391 
Liriodendron, 391 
Lithospermum, 295 
Liver of sulphur, 1108 
Livistona, 835 
Lobelia, 178, 247 
Locust, Clammy, 410 

Tree, 410 
Lodoicea, 838 
Lonicera, 392 

brachypoda, 472 

climbing sorts, 468 

early-flowering sorts, 468 

sempervirens, 471 
Loosestrife, Tufted, 887 
Lord Clanbrassil's Spruce, 
503 



Lord Penzance Hybrid 
Sw^eet Briar Roses, 
121 

Loropetalum, 392 

Lotus Lily, 896, 904, 907, 

911, 914, 922 
Love-in-a-Mist, 235 
Love Lies Bleeding, 24r 
Loxanthes, 345 
Luculia, 655 
Lunaria, 257 
Lupin, 233, 275 
Lupinus, 233, 275 
Ly caste, 604 

Lychnis, 215. 264, 275, 295 
Lycium barbarum, 467 

europaeum, 464 
Lyonia, 393, 428 

arborea, 395 
Lysimachia thyrsiflora, 887 

waterside sorts, 892, 895 
Ly thrum, 894 



M. 

Macrosporium, 1071, 1075 
Macrozamia, 858 
Madonna Lily, 339 
Magnolia, 393', 655 

grandiflora, 473 

planting, 29 
Magpie Moth, 997 
Mahonia, 424 

Aquifolia, 456 
Maidenhair Tree, 497 
Malachodendron, 414 
Malcolmia, 239 
Mallow, Jew's, 389 

Musk, 275 
Malmaison Carnations, 709 
Malope, 234 
Malus, 403 
Malva, 275 
Mamestra, 1056 
Mammillaria, 797 
Mammoth Tree, 512 
Manettia, 693 
Manures, 1114 : 

animal, 1121, 1125 

Apple, 982 

application, 1121 

artificial, 1133 

basic slag, 1137 

bone, ri35 

Cactus, 1119 

carbonate of lime, 1144 

chemical, 1133 

chemical composition of 
animal, 1125 

chloride of potash, 1143 

classification, 1121 

composition of vege- 
table, 1117 

constituents and sources 
of plant-foods, 1115 

cow, 1122, 1125, 1126 

denitritication, 1132 

drainings, 1130 

dung, 1121 

excrements, 1121 

experiments with farm- 
yard, 1 127 

farmyard, 1122 

food requirements of 
plants, 1116 

fruit, 1144 

gas-lime, 1144 



INDEX. 



II9I 



Manures, general, 1122 
green, 1144 
guano, 1 1 39 
horse, 1122, 1125. 1126 
humus, 1115, 11+4. 1146 
kainit, 1143 
lawn, 40 

lime, chief sources of, 

1 143 
marls, 1444 
mineral, 1121 
moss-litter. 11 24 
muriate of potash, 1143 
natural, 1122 
nitrate of soda, 1140 
nitrification, 1130 
orchard, 1138, 1144 
phosphatic, 1135 
pig, 1125, 1126 
- potash, chief sources of, 

1 142 
poultry. 1 129 
quicklime, 1144 
Rose, 97 

sheep, 1125, 1126 
special, 1122 
stable, 1122, 1125, 1126 
Strawberry, 1146 
sulphate of ammonia, 
1 142 

sulphate of potash, 1143 
superphosphates, 1137 
Thomas's phosphate, 
1137 

urine for forcing, 1127 

vegetable. 1121 

wood ashes, 1142 
Maples. 364 

weeping, 477 
Maranta, 676 
Marcgravia, 693 
Marguerite, Blue, 706 

Summer, 221 
Marigold, African, 247 

French, 247 

Marsh, 894 

Pot, 218 
Mariposa Lily. 31S 
Marjoram, 1063 
Marls as manures. 1144 
Marrows. Vegetable, 1076 
Marsh Ledum, 441 

Marigold, S94 

Rosemary, 419 

Saw Grass, 887 
Martynia, 248 
Masdevallia, 612 
Mathiola, 234 258 
Masillaria, 605 
Maximiliana, S38 
May Bug. Lesser, 10S6 
May, Italian. 412 
Meadows, lawns in, 39, 40 
Meadow Sweet, 2S2 

Saffron, 320 
Mealy Bug, 696, 1092 
Meconopsis, 258, 295, 895 
Medinella, 655 
Medlars, 1016 
Megasea, 295 
Melianthus, 190 
Melocactus, 79S 

Turk's Cap, 799 
Melolontha, 10S6 
Melon Cactus, 79S 
Melons, 1016 
Menispermum, 46S 
Mentha, 194 



Menyanthes, 887 
Menziesia, 427, 430 
Merodon, 309 
Mertensia, 295 
Mesembrvanthemum, 194, 
248 

Mespilus, 36S, 434 
Mexican Orange Flower, 429 
Michaelmas Daisy, 265 
Microsphjera, 1006 
Midge, Pear, 1033 
Mignonette, 234 
Mildews, iiii 

Gooseberry, 1006 

Onion, 1067 

Powdery, 1015 
Milfoil-leaved Gilia, 226 
Milfoil, Water, 883 
Milk Weed, Swamp, 894 
Millipedes, 1092 
Miltonia, 591, 605 
Mimosa, 677 
Mimulus, 275 
Mina, 248, 759 
Mineral manures, 1121 
Minorca Box. 427 
Miscanthus, 893 
Mite, Currant Bud, 998 

Gooseberry, 1006 

Nut, 1025 
]Mock Oranges, 397 
Monarda, 276 
Monilia, 11 10 
Monkey Flower, 275 

Puzzle, 4S3 
Monk's Hood, Common, 264 
Monochastum, 656 
Montbretia, 341 
Monterey Cj-press, 492 

Pine, 507 
Monte Video Arrow-head. 
924 

Moonseed, 468 
Moonwort, Blue, 301 
Mop-headed trees and 

shrubs, 360 
Morina, 276 
Morisia, 295 
Morna, 254 
Moss litter, 1124 

Roses, 120 
Mossy Saxifrages, 299 
Moth, Brindle Beauty, 1037 

Cabbage, 1070, 1056 

Codlin, 10S7 

Currant Clear-wing, 998 

Currant Shoot. 998 

Figure of Eight, 983 

Garden Dart. 1096 

Heart and Dart, 1096 

Lackey, 1090 

Magpie, 997 

Mottled Winter, 1093 

Pea, 1070 

Plum, 1036 

Raspberry, 1039 

Silver Y, 1095 

Small Ermine, 983 

Spinach, 99S 

Turnip, 1096 

Vapourer, 1097 

Winter, iioo 

Wood Leopard, 1102 
Mountain Ash, 463 

Laurel, American, 440 

Violet. Yellow, 73 
Mount Etna Lily, 350 

Ida Whortleberry, 452 



Mowing, 41 
Mulberries, 1017 
Muriate of potash, 1143 
Musa, 677, 753 

as an aquatic, 926 
Muscari, 341 
Mushrooms, 1065 
Musk, 276 

Mallow, 275 
Mussaenda, 656 
Mussel Scale, 1095 
Mustard. 1066 
Myosotis, 296 

palustris, 895 
Myriapoda. 1092 
Myriophyllum, 883 
M}Tsiphyllum, 759 

proserpinacoides, 922 
Myrsitis, 207 
Myrtle, 474 
Mytilaspis, 1095 
Myxomycetes, mo 



N. 

NcegeHa, 650, 657 
N anodes, 606 
Narcissus, 341 

Fly- 309 

Hoop Petticoat, 343 

Poet's, 344 
Nasturtium. 253 

Tom Thumb, 254 
Natural sowing of seeds, 946 
Nectarines, 1018 

planting, 1019 

protecting, 1021 

pruning, 1020 

thinning fruits, 1020 

training, 1019 

varieties, 1021 
Nectria, 9S4 
Negundo, 365 
Neillia, 394 
Nelumbium, 922 

culture, 905 
Nematoid Worms, 10S9 
Nematus, 99S 
Nemesia, 249 
Nemophila, 235 
Nepenthes, 624, 678 
Nephrosperma, 838 
Neptunia, 923 
Nerine, 345 
Nicotiana, 191, 249 
Nidularium, 678 
Nigella, 235 

Night-scented Stock, 234 
Nile Lily, 888 

Lotus of the, 914. See 
" Lotus " 
Nitrate of soda, 1140 
Nitrates, 1130 

advantages of, 1133 
Nitrification, 1130 
Nitrogen, 1130 
Noisette Roses, 116 
Nolana, 236 

Nomenclature adopted, 4 
Non - arborescent gigantic 

Ferns, 558 
Nootka Sound Bramble, 410 

Cypress, 492 
North American Black 
Spruce, 503 
Grass, 893 
Thorn, 376 



1 192 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



North American Witch 

Hazel, 386 
Norway Maple, 364 

Spruce, 502 
Nuphar, 883 
Nut Mite. 1025 

Purple-leaved, 376 
Weevil. 1024 
Nuts, Bladder, 414 

Cobs and Filberts, dif- 
ference between, 
1022 

method of keeping, 1024 

Nuttallia, 394 

Nycterina, 250 

Nymphaeas alba, 868, 876 
culture of tender, 903 
day - flowering tender, 
910 

general collection, 876 
hardy, 876 

Lotus, 896, 904, 907, 911, 

914, 922 
Marliac's hybrids, 869, 

877, 881 
new and rare hardy, 880 
night-flowering tender, 

913 

planting tender, 905 
tropical and tender, 896 
Nyssa, 394 



O. 

Oak-leaved Pelargonium, 

717 

Oaks, Poison, 408 

deciduous, 404 

evergreen, 445 
Oat, Animated, 217 
Obstacles, artificial, in land- 
scape work, 18 
Odontoglossum, 614 
CEnothera, 227, 276, 296 
Offsets, propagation by, 948 
Oidium, 1015 
Olea, 443 
Olearia, 443 

climbing sorts, 471 

pruning, 362 
Omphalodes, 296 
Oncidium, 591, 606, 617 
Oncocyclus Iris, 334 
Oncosperma, 839 
Onions, 1066 

Fly, 1067 

Mildew, 1067 
Onoclea, 894 
Onosma, 296 
Opium Poppy, 236 
Oplismenus, 678 
Opuntia, 799 
Orange Ball Tree, 427 

Flower. Mexican, 429 

Globe Flower, 285 

Mock, 397 
Orchards, manuring, 1138, 

1 144 
Orchids, 573 : 

cool, 611 

Dove, 490 

hardy, 617 

Holy Ghost, 590 

hybridisation, 618 

intermediate house, 592 

pests, 620 

stove, 573 



Orchids, Swan, 597 

warm, 573 

window, 611 
Oreodoxa, 859 
Orgyia, 1097 

Oriental Poppy, giant, 277 
Ornithocephalus, 607 
Ornithogalum, 345 
Ornus, 383 
Orobus, 277 
Orontium, 883 
Osmanthus, 443 

climbing sorts, 472 
Osmunda, 893 
Osoberry, 394 
Ostrich Fern, 894 
Oswego Tea, 276 
Otiorrhynchus, 1098 
Ottelia, 923 

Outdoor Ferneries, 570 
Ouvirandra, 918 
Oxera, 693 
Oxydendron. 395 
Ozothamnus, 444 



P. 

Paeonia, 395 
Pseonies, Tree, 395 
Palms, 807: 

decorative uses, 80S 

economic properties, S07 

foliage plants, 807 

hardy, 451 

Honey, 834 

outdoor, 451 

pests, 811 

propagation, 810 

room plants, 766 

select, 812 

soils, 809 
Pampas Grass, 1S4, 893 
Pamphilius, 1094 
Panax, 67S 
Pancratium, 346 
Pandanus. 67S 

Veitchii, 926 
Panicum, 679, 678 753, 893 
Pansies, 6g 

Belgian, 69 

classification, 69 

culture, 69 

history, 69 

pests. 71. 72 

propagation, 69, 70 

seed-saving, 70 

Selfs, 69 

Show, 6g 

Tufted, 72 

varieties, 72 

White-Ground. 69 

Yellow-Ground. 69 
Papaver, 236, 258, 277 
Paper Reed, Egyptian, 919 
Paphinia, 590 
Papyrus, 919 

Parabolic curve, tracing. 12 
Parasitic Fungi, method of 

reproduction, 1105 
preventive measures 

against, rio5 
Parasol Pines, 508, 512 
Paris Green for chewing 

insects, 1081 
Parks, lawns in, 39, 40 

planting, 25 
Parnassus, Grass of, 895 



Parrotia, 396 

Parrot's Feather, 883, 922 
Parsley, 1067 
Parsley-leaved Elder, 411 
Parsnip, 1068 

Fly, 1060 
Partridge Berry, 458 
Passiflora, 693, 759 

caerulea, 473 
Passion Flower. 473. 759 
Patagonian Cypress, 496 
Paths, 21 
Paullinia, 694 
Paulownia, 396 

pruning, 363 
Pavetta, 679 
Pavia, 367 
Pea, 1068 

Beetle, 1070 

Moth. 1070 

Perennial, 274 

pests of, 1069 

Sweet, 231 

Trees, Siberian, 371, 478 

Weevil, 1069 
Peach, 1025 

Aphis, 10S5 

Curl, 1027 

disbudding, 1026 

ornamental species and 
varieties, 399 

pests, 1027 

pruning, 1026 

varieties, 1025 
Pear, Cordons, 102S 

Leaf Blister Mite, 1034 

Midge, 1033 

pests, 1033 

planting, 31 

Rust, 1034 

Scab, iioS 

standards, 103 1 

stock for, 1027 

varieties, 1032 
Pearl Bush, 381 
Pegs for landscape garden- 
ing, S 
Pelargonium, 180, 715 

Ivy-leaved, 716 

Oak-leaved, 717 

Show, 715 

Sweet - scented - leaved, 

717 
Zonal, 716 
Pellionia. 694 
Peltandra, 8S7 
Pendulous trees and shrubs, 
476 

Pentas, 657 

Pentstemon. 27S 

Peperomia, 6S0 

Pepper Tree, Alder-leaved. 

375 

Perennial Pea, 274 
Perennials, hardy her- 
baceous, 260 

cultivation, 261 

propagation, 263 

use of, 260 
Pereskia, Soo 
Perilla. 181 
Periplaneta, 1087 
Periploca, 467 
Peristeria, 589 
Periwinkles, 454 
Pernettya, berry-bearing. 458 
Peronospora, 1062 
Perpendiculars, tracing. 14 



INDEX. 



II93 



Persian Lilac, 413 
Persica, 399 
Peruvian Lily, 311 
Pescatorea, 582 
Pests, animal, 1079 

Apple, 982 

Cherry, 993 

Chrysanthemum, 161 

Currant, 997 

Fig, 1003 

general, 1078 

greenhouse, 705 

Orchid, 620 

Palm, 811 

room plant, 766 

Rose, 124 

Vegetable, 1103 
Petunia, 181, 717 
Phacelia, 225, 237, 240 
Phaius, 589 
Phalaenopsis, 581 
Phalangium, 315 
Phalaris, 893 
Pheasant's Eye, 215 
Philadelphus, 397 
Philesia, 444 
Phillyrea, 444 

berry-bearing, 460 
Philydrum, 923 
Phlomis, 444 
Phlox, 207, 278 

Drummondi, 182, 250 
Phoenix, 840 
Phoma, 1002 
Phormium, 753 
Phosphatic manures, 11 35 
Photinia, 470 
Phragmidium, 132, 1112 
Phragmites, 888 
Phrynium, 680 
Phygelius, 279 
Phyllanthus, 680 
Phyllocactus, 800 
Phyllodromia, 10S7 
Phyllodoce, 427 
Phyllopertha, 10S6 
Phyllostachys, 422, 863 
Phyllotaenium, 681 
Phyllotreta, 1076 
Physalis, 279 
Phytelephas, 842 
Phyteuma, 297 
Phytophthora, 1071 
Phytoptus, 998, 1025 
Piassaba Palm, 814 
Picea, 480, 502 

Douglasii, 511 

weeping, 478 
Pickerel Weed, 888 
Pickling Cabbages, 1055 
Picotees, 52, 708, 709 718 

classification, 54 

culture, 55 

pests, 56 

preparing for exhibition, 
56 

propagation, 55 

Purple-edged, 59 

Red-edged, 59 

Rose-edged, 59 

Rust on, 59 

Scarlet-edged, 59 

Spot on, 56, 59 

White-ground, 59 

Yellow-ground, 59 
Pieris, 445, 1055 
Pig manure, 1125, 1126 
Pilea, 658 



Pillar-plants, greenhouse, 683 

stove, 683 
Pimpernel, 242 
Pinanga, 844 
Pines, 504 

Chili, 480 

Parasol, 508, 512 

Umbrella, 508, 512 
Pinks, Cheddar, 292 

Chinese, 224 

classification, 62 

Common, 292 

culture, 60 

Cushion, 301 

Fancies, 62 

garden, 60 

Laced, 62 

pests, 61 

propagation, 61 

Selfs, 62 

varieties, 62 
Pinus, 504 

sylvestris, 522 
Pinwheel Echinocactus, 795 
Piophila, 1060 
Pippul Tree, 675 
Piptanthus, 445 
Pistia, 923 

Pitcher plants, 624, 678 
Pittosporum, 473 
Plagianthus, 467 
Plane-trees, 398 
Planning landscape garden, 
7 

Plantain Lily. 327 

Water, 886 
Plantations, old and new, 
27 

Plant food, 11 14. See 
" Manures " 

Lice, 1085 

propagation, 939 
Plasmodiophora, 1056 
Platanus, 398 
Platyclinis, 590 
Platystemon, 237 
Plectocomia, 844 
Pleione, 607 
Fleroma, 760 
Plum Aphis, 1085 

Pocket, 1037 

Tortrix, 1036 
Plum-fruited Juniper, 499 
Plums as park trees, 1035 

Bladder, 1037 

Bush, 1035 

Cordon, 1035 

Moth, 1036 

Pests, 1036 

pruning, 1036 

Pyramid, 1035 

soil, 1034 
Plumbago, 658, 759 
Plume Poppy, 266 
Plusia, 1095 
Poa nemoralis, 42 
Podocarpus, 509 

koraianus, 48S 
Podocystus, 390 
Podophyllum, 892 
Poet's Narcissus, 344 
Poinsettia, 658 
Poison Oak, 408 
Polemonium, 279 
Polyactis, 308, 309 
Polyanthus, 87, 207 

culture, 88 

history, 87 



Polyanthus, pip of, 88 

preparing for exhibition, 
89 

propagation, 88 

varieties, 87 
Polycarpa, 388 
Polygala, 445 
Polygonatum, 346, 895 
Polygons, tracing, 15 
Polygonum, 279 

waterside sorts, 892 
Polyporus, iiii 
Polystigma, 1112 
Pomegranate, 465 
Pompone Anemone Chry- 
santhemums, late- 
flowering, 157 

Chrysanthemums, early- 
flowering, 161 

Dahlias, 65 
Pond plants, 865. See 
"Aquatics " 

making, 871 

Weed, 881 
Pontederia, 888 

azurea, 919 
Poplars, 398 

planting, 32 

riverside, 29 
Poppies, Anemone, 313 

Blue Himalayan, 258 

Californian, 237 

Californian Bush, 281 

Carnation-flowered, 236 
_ Corn, 236 

French, 236 

Giant Oriental, 277 

Horned, 257 

Iceland, 258 

Mallow, 219 

Mikado, 237 

Opium, 236 

Plume, 266 

Ranunculus-flowered, 
236 

Shirley, 236 

Victoria Cross, 237 

Water, 882, 921 

Welsh, 295 
Populus, 398 

nigra fastigiata, 29 

weeping sorts, 476 
Porous bottles for Fern 

culture, 547 
Portugal Laurel, 42S 
Portulacas, 250 
Posoqueria, 658 
Pot Ferns, 539 

Marigold, 218 

Vines, 1008 
Potash, chief sources of, 1142 

chloride of, 1143 

muriate of, 1143 

sulphate of, 1143 
Potassium sulphide, iioS 
Potatoes, 1070 

Leaf Curl, 1071 
Potentiila, 280 
Pothos, 695 
Poultry manure, 1129 
Powdery Mildew, 1015 
Preservation of seeds, 943 
Preventive measures against 
parasitic Fungi, 1105 
Pricking-off seedlings, 947 
Prickly Heaths, 45S 
Ivy, 470 

Pear, 799 



II94 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Primrose, Evening, 276 
Primula, 297, 718 

acaulis, 87 

Auricula, 45 

waterside sorts, 895 
Pritchardia, 844 
Privets, 441 
Proliferous Ferns, 564 
Promenaea, 590 
Propagating-house, 939 
Propagation : 

Aquatics, 865 

budding, 969 

Cacti, 788 

circumposition, 953 

cuttings, 954 

division, 947, 950 

Ferns, 548 

Grape Vines, 1013 

tiardy herbaceous peren- 
nials, 263 

grafting, 962 

heeling, 952 

insertion of the growing 
point, 953 

layering, 951 

Palms, 810 

seeds, 942 

Succulents, 788 

suckers, 950 

tongueing, 952 
Protecting Apricots, 987 

Nectarines, 1021 
Protection, shrubs for, 464 
Provence Roses, 119 
Prumnopitys, 510 
Prunella, 298 
Pruning Apples, 978 

Apricots, 986 

Cherries, 990 

Grapes, 1013 

Nectarines, 1020 

Peaches, 1026 

Plums, 1036 

trees and shrubs, 361 
Prunus, 399 

lusitanica, 428 

triloba, 468 

weeping sorts, 476 
Pseudolarix, 510 
Pseudotsuga, 511 
Psychotria, 651 
Psylla, 983 
Ptelia, 402 
Pterocarya, 402 
Pterostichus, 1045 
Pterostyrax, 385 
Puccinia, 11 12 
Puddling lakes, 38 
Punica, 465 

Purple Loosestrife, 894 
Puschkinia, 347 
Pyramid Plums, 1035 
Pyramidal Stock, 253 
Pyrethrum, 280 

Golden Feather, 182 
Pyrus, 402 

berry-bearing, 463 

climbing, 464 

weeping, 477 
Pythium, 11 10 



Q. 

Quaking Grass, 217 
Quamash, 319 



Queen Aster, Dwarf, 245 

Stock, 258 
Quercus, deciduous, 404 

evergreen, 445 
Quicklime, 1144 
Quilled Aster, Prize, 244 
Quinces, 1037 



R. 

Radishes, 1072 

Horse, 1063 
Rambler Roses, 122 
Ramondia, 298 
Ranunculuses, 85, 547 

asiaticus, 85 

bed of, 85 

culture, 86 

history, 85 

Lingua, 888 

propagation, 86 
Ranunculus-flowered Del- 
phinium, 250 
Raphia, 846 
Raspberry, 1038, 1112 

autumn, 1039 

Beetle, 1039 

Moth, 1039 

pests, 1039 

Rust, 1040 
Reciprocal views, 9 
Rectangles, tracing, 14 
Red Birch, 370 

Cabbages, 1055 

Cedar, 500 

Currants, 996 

Flax, 233 

Oak, 404 

Spider, 696, 713, 1045, 
1093 

Red-hot Poker, 335 
Redwood, Californian, 513 
Reed, Common, 888 

Great, 420 

;\Iaces, 889, 890 
Reflexed Chrysanthemums, 
15+ 

Reinwardtia, 658, 719 
Renanthera, 589; 
Reseda, 234 
Residence, site for, 7 
Retinospora, 488 

ericoides, 521 

meldensis, 521 
Rhamnus, 447 
Rhaphiolepis, 461 

climbing, 472 
Rhapis, 847 
Rheum, 891 
Rhizomatous Iris, 333 
Rhizomes, propagation by, 
949 

Rhodanthe, 251 
Rhododendron, 659 

deciduous, 404 

evergreen, 447 

site for, 32 
Rhodora, 406 
Rhodothamnus empetri- 

folius, 426 
Rhodotypos, 407 
Rhopala, 681 
Rhopalosiphum, 1085 
Rhopalostylis, 847 
Rhubarb, 1072 
Rhus, pruning, 363 

species and varieties, 407 



Rhyncophora, 1098 
Rhynchostylis, 579 
Ribbon Grass, 893 
Ribes, 408 
Richardia, 738, 746 

africana, 888 
Ricinus, 191, 251 
Ringing, 951 

propagation by, 951 
River plants, 865. See 
" Aquatics " 

views on, 37 
Riverside plants, 890. See 
" Aquatics " 

Poplars, 2y 

shrubs, 27 
Rivina, 659, 719 
Roads, making, 22 
Robinia, 409 
Rock Ah'ssum, 216 
Rock Plants, 287 
Rock Roses, 429 
Rockeries, 288 

for aquatics, 872 

shrubs for, 27 
Rocket, 273 
Rocks in water, 38 
Rocky Mountain Columbine, 
265 

Rodgersia podophylla, 892 
Rod, Golden, 2S2 
Roestellia, 1034 
Rolling lawns, 41 
Roman Cypress, 496 

Hyacinth, 934 
Romneya, 281 
Rondeletia, 659 
Room Plants, 761 

flowering, 773 

for baskets, 782 

hardy Ferns as, 569 
Root, Club, iiio 

cuttings, 960 

Rot of Trees, 1109 
Root-feeding insects, 1080 
Rosa alpina, 121 

arvensis, 120 

Banksia, iii 

centifolia, 119 

centifolia muscosa, 120 

indica bourboniana, 118 

indica Noisettiana, 116 

indica odorata, loi 

lutea, 121 

multiflora, 118 

Polyantha hybrida, 118 

rubiginosa, 121 

sempervirens, 120 
Rose Acacia, 409 

Alpine, 448 

Chafer, 1087 

Christmas, 320 

Guelder, 418, 462 

Lenten, 329 

of Heaven, 215 

of Sharon. 388 

Rust, 1112 

Sun, 436 
Roses, 93 : 

arrangement in bed and 
border, 97 

Austrian Briars, 121 

Ayrshire, 120 

Banksian, in 

Bourbon, 118 

Boursault, 121 

budding, 95 

climbing, 464 



INDEX. 



II95 



Roses, climbing Tea, 104 
Evergreen, 120 
exhibition, 108 
exhibition points, 109 
exhibition Tea, in 
from cuttings, 94 
Hybrid Perpetual, 112 
Hybrid Sweet Briars, 
Lord Penzance, 121 
manures, 97 
Moss, 120 
Noisette, 116 
pests, 124 
Provence, 119 
Rambler, 122 
Rock, 429 
Scotch, 123 
Seedling Briar, 94 
soil, 96 
stocks, 93 
Sweet Briars, 121 
Tea, 101 

Tea - scented Hybrid, 
105 

under glass, 100 
Rosemary, 451 

Marsh, 419 
Rosmarinus, 451 
Rot, Apple, 985 
Round-leaved Endive, 1063 
Roupala, 681 
Royal Fern, 893 

Water Lily, 906, 916 
Rubus, 410 

Ruby Gem Wallflower, 259 
Rudbeckia, 281 
Runners, propagation by, 
949 

Ruscus, 451, 461 
Rush, Broom, 411 

Flowering, 866, 

Spiral, 893 
Russelia, 659 
Russian Daisy, 280 
Rusts, 1 1 12 

Beet, 1053 

Raspberry, 1040, 11 12 
Rose, 1112 



S. 

Sabal, 848 

Saccolabium, 579 

Sacred Bean of India, 922 

Sacred Cedar, 478, 483 

Saddle-grafting, 964 

Saffron, Meadow, 320 

Sage, Jerusalem, 444 

Sagina, 194 

Sagittaria, 889, 924 

St. Bernard Lily, 315 

St. Brigid Anemone, 314 

St. Bruno Lily, 315 

St. Dabeoc's Heath, 430 . 

St. John's Worts, 388 

Saintpaulia, 659 

Salad plants, forcing, 932 

Salisburia, 497 

Salix, 410 

riverside species, 27 
weeping sorts, 477 

Salpiglossis, 251 

Salsafy, 1072 

Salt Tree, 386 

Salvia, 719 

Salvinia, 925 

Sambucus, 411 



Sambucus, berry-bearing, 462 
Sanchezia, 681 
Santolina, 194 
Sanvitalia, 237 
Saponaria, 237 
Sarracenia, 629 
Satin Flower, 349 
Savin, 499 
Savoys, 1055, 1073 
Sawflies, 1094 

Gooseberry and Cur- 
rant, 998 
Saw Grass, Marsh, 887 
Saxifrages, 194, 295, 298, 299 

Encrusted, 298 

Large-leaved, 299 

Mossy, 299 

waterside sorts, 895 
Scab, Apple, 1108 

Pear, 1108 
Scabiosa, 238 
Scabious, 238 
Scale, 1095 

Mussel, 1095 
Scarborough Lily, 355, 747 
Scarlet-berried Elder, 462 
Scarlet Maple, 365 

Runner Beans, 1051 
Scheelea, 848 
Schizanthus, 252, 719 
Schizoneura, 1083 
Schizopetalon, 252 
Schizostylis, 348 
Schomburgkia, 608 
Schubertia, 695 
Sciadopitys, 512 
Scilla, 348 

Scirpus, 753, 889, 892 
Sclerotia, 1106 
Sclerotinia, 1015 
Scolopendrium vulgare, 894 
Scolytus, logo 
Scorzonera, 1072 
Scotch Firs, 509 

Laburnum, 390 

Rose, 123, 464 
Screw Holly, 438 

Pine, 678 
Scutellaria, 660 
Sea-birds' dung, 1139 
Sea Buckthorn, 463 

Daffodil, 346 
Seakale, 1073 
Sea Lavender, Great, 284 
Season for Grafting, 963 
Sedum, 195, 299 
Seedling Briar for Roses, 

advantages of, 94 
Seedlings in pans, 945 

in pots, 945 

pricking off, 947 
Seeds, filing, 944 

natural sowing, 946 

preservation, 943 

propagation, 942 

softening, 944 

sowing, 944 

stratification, 943 

testing, 942 
Select Palms, 812 
Sempervivum, 195, 300 
Senecio, 247, 252, 281 
Senna, Bladder, 375 
Sensitive Plant, 677 

Water, 923 
Sequoia, 512 
Sericographis, 660 
Servian Spruce, 503 



Sesia, 998 

Shading Ferns, 534 

greenhouse, 700 
Shady places in woods, 

plants for, 42 
Shallots, 1074 
Sharon, Rose of, 388 
Sheep Laurel, 440 

manure, 1125, 1126 
Shell-sand as manure, 1144 
Shepherdia, 411 
Shirley Poppies, 236 
Shortia, 230, 300 
Show Auriculas, 45, 50 

Carnations, 708 

Dahlias, 64 

Pelargoniums, 715 
Shrubs. See " Trees and 
Shrubs " 

berry-bearing, 457 

climbing, 464 

deciduous berry-bearing, 
461 

evergreen berry-bearers, 
457 

evergreen climbing, 470 
evergreen wall, 470 
for hedges, 33 
for protection, 464 
for rockeries, 27 
planting in landscapes, 

27 

wall, 464 
weeping, 476 
Siberian Cherry, 401 
Crab, 403 
Iris, 332 

Pea Tree, 371, 478 

Water Lily, 878 
Sidalcea, 282 
Silene, 207, 238, 301 
Silk Grass, 456 
Silver and Gold Ferns, 560 

Bell Tree, 385 

Berry, 463 

Firs, 480 

Leaf, 1036 

leaved Lawson's Cy- 
press, 491 

Lime, 416 

Maple, 364 

Maple, Wier's, 477 

Y Moth, 1095 
Single Chrysanthemums, 150 
Sisyrinchium, 349 
Sitona, 1069 

Skimmias, berry-bearing, 457 
Slag, basic, 1137 
"Sleepy" Disease, 1075 
Slender Reed Mace, 890 
Slopes, supporting, 35 
Sloping ground, tracing on, 
16 

Slugs, 1070, 1096 

Slugworm, 993 

Small Ermine Moth, 983 

Quaking Grass, 217 
Smilax, 759 

rambling sorts, 470 
Snails, 1096 

Snake-barked Daphne, 432 

Maple, 364 
Snake's Head, 327 
Sneezewort, Double, 264 
Snowball Tree, Japanese, 419 
Snow Berry, 462 
Snowdrop, 328 
Snowflake, 337 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Snowflake Water. 922 
Snowflower, 373, 444 
Snow-in-Summer, 193 
Snowy Fly, 1056 
Soapwort, 237 
Sobralia, 60S 
Social Wasps, 1097 
Soda, nitrate of, 1140 
Softening seeds, 944 
Soft-wooded plants for 

greenhouse, 705 
Soils for various purposes, 

29, 96, 765, S09 
Solanum, 191, 695, 759 
Soldanella, 301 
Soldier, Water, 884 
Solidago, 282 
Solomon's Seal, 346, 895 
Solution, copper sulphate, 

iioS 

Sonerila, 6S1 

Sophora japonica pendula, 
47S 
planting, 31 
Sophronitis, 617 
Sorbus, 403 

Sources of plant food, 11 15 
Sowbread, 324 
Sowing lawns, 40 

verges, 41 
Sow's Ears. 45 
Spanish Broom, 3S4, 411 

Chestnut, 372 

Hyacinth, 331 

Iris, 331 

Juniper, 500 
Sparaxis, 350 
Sparmannia, 720 
Spartium, 384, 411 
Spearwort, Great, 888 
Specularia, 238 
Speedwell, 285 

Hungarian, 302 
Speedwell (Veronica), 453 
Spergula, 195 
Sphaerogyne, 682 
Sphenogyne, 23S 
Spider, Red, 696. 713. 1093 
Spiderwort, Common, 285 
Spinach, 1074 

Moth, 998 
Spindle Tree, berry-bearing, 
461 

Spirsa, 282, 411 

Alberti. 46S 

grandiflora, 381, 468 

opulifolia, 394 

waterside sorts, 894 
Spiral Rush. 893 
Spot, Black 1075 
Spraying machines. 1108 
Spring bedding. 203 
Spring Cabbages, 1055 

Vetch, 277 
Spruce Firs, 502 
Spurge Laurel, 432 
Squill, 348 

Striped, 347 
Stable manure. 1122, 1125, 
1126 

Stachyurus, 414 
Stag's-horn Sumach, 407 
Stangeria, 85S 
Stanhopea, 608 
Staphylea, 414 
Star of Bethlehem, 345 
Star Tulip, 318 
Statice, 283, 290, 301, 720 



Stauntonia latifolia, 474 

Stellaria, 195 

Stem cuttings, 959 

Stephanotis, 695, 760 

Steps, 24, 35 

Sternbergia, 350 

Stimulants, 1114. See 
'■ Manures " 

Stock, Bedding, 252 
Biennial, 252 
Brompton, 258 
Dwarf Bedding, 252 
Dwarf Bouquet, 253 
Giant Brompton, 258 
Giant Globe Pyramidal, 
253 

Intermediate, 252 
Night-scented, 234 
Queen, 25S 
Ten-week, 252 
Virginian, 239 
Wallflower-leaved. 258 
Stock-flowered Delphinium, 
230 

Stocks for budding, 971 

grafting, 962 

for Pears, 1027 

Roses, 94 
Stolons, propagation by, 
949 

Stonecrop, 299 
Stone-Pine, 508 

Swiss. 504 
Stopping \'me Shoots, ion 
Stove Plants. 63S : 

climbers, 683 

culture of, 640 

Ferns for exhibition, 
567 

flowering, 641 

houses for, 639 

Orchids, 573 

ornamental foliage, 663 

pillar, 683 

potting, 639 

shading, 640 

wall, 6S3 

watering, 640 
Stratification of seeds, 943 
Stratioies. 8S4 
Strawberries, 1040 

accommodating nature 
of, 1040 

Alpine, 1041 

early planting. 1040 

forcing, 1043 

Leaf Spot. 1046 

manures for. 11 46 

pests, 1045 
Strawberry Tree. 420, 460 
Streams, utilising. 36, 38 
Strelitzia, 660, 746 
Striped Squill, 547 
Strobilanthes, 682, 720 
Stuartia, 414 
Stylophaga, 10S7 
Styrax, 414 

Sub-tropical bedding, 1S3 
Succulents, 7S7 
Suckers, propagation by, 
950 

Sucking pests, loSi 
Sugar Maple, 364 

Pine, 508 
Sulphate of ammonia, X142 

potash, 1143 
Sulphide, potassium, 1108 
Sulphur, liver of, iioS 



Sumach, 407 
Summer-bedding, 166 

ordinary, 169 

planting. 168 

preparation for, 166 
Summer Marguerite. 221 
Sunflower, 272 
Sun Plant, 250 

Roses. 436 
Superphosphates. 1137 
Supporting newly - planted 

trees, 32 
Surface caterpillars. 1064. 

1071, 1096 
Swainsonia. 760 
Swamp Blueberry, 417 

Laurel, 440 

Lilies. American, 895 

Milk Weed. 894 
Swan Orchid, 597 

River Daisy, 245 
Swedish Juniper, 499 

\\'ater Lily, 8S0 
Sweet Alyssum, 216 

Amber. 388 

Bay, 440 

Briar Roses, 121 

Cyperus, 892 

Flag, 886 

Gum-tree, 361 

Pea. 231 

Sultan, 220 

William, 258 
Sweet-leaved Pelargonium, 
717 

Sweet-scented Crab. 403 
Swiss Stone Pine. 504 
Sycamores. 365 
Sycomore. 675 
Symphoricarpus, 462 
Symphyandra, 302 
Synonymy, 4 
Syringa, 415 

Syringa. See " Philadel- 
phus " 



T. 

T-budding, 969 
Tabebuia. 696 
Tabernasmontana. 660 
Tacca, 645 
Tacsonia. 760 
Tagetes. 247. 253 
Taking cuttings, period for, 
957 

Talipot Palm, 828 
Tamarix, 451 

Tanks for hardv aquatics, 
S73 

tender aquatics, goi 
Tansy-leaved Thorn, 378 
Taxodium, 515 
Taxus. 516 

Harringtoniana, 488 

weeping, 479 
Tea-Roses, loi 

climbing, 104 

for exhibition, in 

hybrid. 105 
Tecoma, 467, 696 
Tender aquatics, 896 
Tennis-grounds, 41 
Tephritis, 1060 
Terminal cuttings, 95S 
Testacella. 1096 
Testing seeds, 942 



INDEX. 



II97 



Tetranychus, 1093 
Thalia dealbata, 925 
Thalictrum, 284 
Thamnocalamus, 422 
Thatch Palm, 833 
Theodolite, fixing levels 

with, 17 
Thermopsis, 284, 445 
Thinning berries of Grapes, 

lOII 

bunches of Grapes, 
ior2 

Nectarine fruits, 1020 
Thistle, Fish-bone, 257 

Ivory, 271 
Thomas's phosphate, 1137 
Thorns, 376 

berry-bearing, 459, 461 

climbing, 471 

European Box, 464 

pruning, 362 
Three-thorned Acacia, 385 
Thrinax, 849 
Thrips, 1070, 1097 
Thunbergia, 696 
Thunia, 609 
Thuya, 517 

chilensis, 502 

nootkatensis, 492 

obtusa, 495 

pisifera, 495 

weeping sorts, 47S 
Thuyopsis borealis, 492 

dolabrata, 517 

Standishii, 517 
Thyrsacanthus, 660 
Thysanoptera, 1097 
Tiarella, 302 
Tibouchina, 760 
Tiger Flower, 350 

Moth, 1064 
Tiger-tail Spruce, 503 
Tigridia, 350 
Tilia, 416 

weeping, 478 
Tillandsia, 660, 682 
Tinted-fronded Ferns, 559 
Tipula, 1092 
Tobacco Plant, 249 
Tomatoes, 1074 

manuring, 1141 

pests, 1075 
Tongue-grafting, 963 
Tongueing, propagation by, 
952 

Torch Cactus, 791 

Lily, 335 
Torenia, 661 
Tortrix of .Plum, 1036 
Toxicodendron, 408 
Toxicophlaea, 661 
Trachelium, 720 
Trachycarpus, 850 

excelsus, 451 
Tracing landscape garden, 
8 

Tradescantia, 2S5, 6S2, 754 
Trailing Ferns, 562 
Training Nectarines, 1019 
Transparent Ferns, 56r 
Trapa, 8S4 

Tree, Blue Gum. 189 
Carnation, 57, 70S 
Ferns, 546, 557 
Ivies, 460 
of Heaven, 367 
Paeonies, 395 
Root Rot, 1109 



Trees and Shrubs, 356: 
berry-bearing, 457 
coloured-leaved, 358 
deciduous, 363 
deciduous climbers, 464 
deciduous wall shrubs, 
464 

deciduous weeping, 476 
drooping, 476 
evergreen, 419 
evergreen berry-bearers, 
457 

evergreen climbers, 470 
evergreen wall shrubs, 
470 

evergreen weeping, 476 

forcing, 936 

for winter effect, 357 

grouping, 26, 28 

:n America, 25 

mop-headed, 360 

mulching, 360 

on the Continent, 25 

Palms, 451 

planting, 25 

supporting newly- 
planted, 32 

packing, 360 

pendulous, 476 

planting, 358 

protection of, when 
travelling, 360 

pruning, 361 

spring-flowering, 358 

staking, 360 

transplanting, 359 

weeping, 476 

\\inter-blossoming, 357 
Trellises, berry-bearers for, 
464 

Trianea, 921 
Triangles, tracing, 14 
Trichopilia, 610 
Trillium, 352, S95 
Trinity Flower, 352 
Trithrinax, 851 
Tritoma, 335, 895 
Tritonia, 322, 341, 352 
TroUius, 285 

waterside sorts, 895 
Tropaeolum. 253, 760 
Tropical aquatics, 896 
Trumpet Daffodil, Large, 343 

Honeysuckles, 471 
Tryphaena, 1096 
Tsuga, 521 

Douglasii, 511 
Tubercules, propagation by, 
948 

Tuberous-rooted Begonias, 
170 

Tubers, propagation by, 948 
Tufted Loosestrife, 887 

Pansies, 72 
Tulip, 353 

Star, 318 

Tree, 29, 39r 
Tulipa, 353 

Tulips, Breeders' Bizarres, 
80 

Bybloemens, 81 
classification, 77, 80 
culture, 76, 79 
Feathered Bizarres. 80 
Feathered Bvbloemens, 
80 

Feathered Roses, 80 
Flamed Bizarres, 80 



Tulips, Flamed Bvbloemens, 

So 

Fiamed Roses, 

Garden, 75 

Gesneriana, 75 

high prices for, 75 

history, 75 

Roses, 81 

varieties, 80 
Turf-beater, 41 
Turf, laying, 4r 
Turfed walks, 24 
Turk's-Cap Lily, 339 

Melocactus, 798 
Turnip, 1076 

Fiea, 1076 

Fly, ro76 

Moth, 1096 
Tydaea, 662 
Typha, 889 



U. 

Ulex, 452 
LTmus, 416 

weeping, 476 
Umbrella Pine, 512 
Uncinula, 1015 
Underground layering, 953 
Underwing, Yellow, 1096 
Undulations, artificial, 34 
Uniola, 893 

United States, arboriculture 

in, 25 
Urceolina, 662 
Uredmeae, 1112 
Urine as a forcing manure, 

1127 

constituents of, 1125 
Ursinia, 238 
Utricularia, 885 



V. 

Vacciniums, 384, 417 

deciduous, 417 

evergreen, 452 
Vallota, 355, 747 
Vanda, 574 
Vapourer r^Ioth, 1097 
Variegated Ferns, 560 
Vegetable manures, 1121 

Marrows, 1076 
Vegetables, 1047 ■ 

composition of, iir7 

forcing, 927 

pests, 1103 
Veitchia, 851 

Veitch's Virginian Creeper, 
466 

Veltheimia, 747 
Venetian Sumach, 407 
\'entilation, 701, 763, 1012 
Venus's Flytrap, 636 

Looking Glass, 23S 
Verbascum, 259 
Verbena, 182 

Lemon-scented, 469 
Verges, sections of, 23,' 24 

sowing, 41 
Veronica, 23S, 285, 302, 453 
Verschafteltia, S52 
Vetches, 277 

Viburnums, berrv - bearing, 
462 

deciduous, 418 



THE BOOK OF GARDENING. 



Viburnum, Tinus, 454 
Victoria regia, 906, 907, 917 
Villa gardens, designing, 35 
Villarsia, 883 
Vinca, 454, 663 
Vineries, form of, 1009 
Vines. See "Grapes" 

pot, 1008 
Vine Weevils, 1098 
Violas, 72, 207 

classification, 74 

cornuta, 72 

culture, 73 

history, 73 

lutea, 73 

preparing for exhibition, 
74 

propagation, 74 

rayed, 69 

tricolor, 69, 92 

varieties, 75 
Violet, Dame's, 273 

Dog's Tooth, 326 

Horned, 73 

Water, 882 

Yellow Mountain, 73 
Virginian Creepers, 466 

Stocks, 239 

Willow, 389 
Viscaria, 239 

Vitis, climbing sorts, 465, 466 
heterophylla humuli- 
folia, 464 
Viviparous Ferns, 564 
Vriesia, 663 



W. 

Wahlenbergia, 302 
Waitzia, 254 
Walks, 21, 23 
WalMower, 207, 259 

German, 259 

Western, 225 
Wallflower-leaved stock, 
258 

Wallichia, 853 
Wall-plants, greenhouse, 683 

hardy shrubs, 464 

stove, 683 
Walnuts, 1046 

Caucasian, 402 

species and varieties, 
389 

Wardian Case, 547 
Warscewiczella, 582 
Wasps, 1097 

Social, 1097 
Water Arum, 887 

Caltrops, 884 

Chestnut, 884 

Hyacinths, 919 

landscape gardening, 
36 



Water Lettuce, 923 
level, use of, 17 
Lilies, 876, 883, 896, 903, 
911 

Lilies, Royal, go6, 907, 
916, 917 

Lily, fringed, 883 

Milfoil, 883 

Plantain, 886 

plants, 865. See 
" Aquatics " 

Poppy, 882, 921 

Sensitive Plant, 923 

Shield, American, 882 

Soldier, 884 

Snowflake, 922 

tanks for greenhouse, 
702 

Violet, 882 
Waterside plants, 8go. Sec 

also " Aquatics " 
Wayfaring Tree, 418 
Wedge grafting, 964 
Weeds on lawns, 41 
Weeping Ash, 478 

Aspens, 476 

Conifers, 478 

Dogwood, 478 

Fir, 478 

trees and shrubs, 476 

Willows, 477 

Wych Elm, 476 
Weevils, 1098 

Apple Blossom, 1098 

Black Vine, 1098 

Cabbage Gall, 1056 

Clay-coloured Vine, 1098 

Nut, 1024 

Pea, io6g 
Weigelia, 380 
Welha, 854 
Wellingtonia, 512 
^^'elsh Poppy. 295 
Western Wallflower, 225 
Weymouth Pine, 508 
Whipcord Thuya, 478 
Whip-grafting, 963 
White Beam, 403, 463 

Broom, 378 

Cedar, 496 

Currants, 996 

Kerria, 407 

Water Lily, 878 
Whitlavia, 239 
Whortleberries, 452 
Wigandia, 191 
Willows, 410 

planting, 32 

riverside, 27 

Virginian, 3P9 

weeping, 477 
Windflower, 312 
Window-boxes for rooms, 
783 

Window Orchid, 611 



Winged Everlasting, 216 
Winter Aconite, 324 

bedding, 208 

Cherry, 279 

Daffodil, 350 

Hawthorn, 881 

Heath, 434 

Jasmine, 466 

Moth, 1 100 

Moth, Mottled, 1093 
Wireworms, 1070, iioo 
Wiring newly-planted trees, 
32 

Wistaria, 465 

Witch Alder, American, 383 

Hazels, 386 
Withe Rod, American, 419 
Wood-ashes, 1142 
Wood-feeding insects, 1080, 

IIOI 

Wood Leopard Moth, 1102 

Lily, 352 
Woodlice, 1066, 1102 
Woolly Aphis, 1083 
Worms, Nematoid, 1089 
Wych Elms, 416 

Weeping, 476 



X. 

Xanthoceras, 466 
Xanthosoma, 926 
Xeranthemum, 240 
Xyleborus, 621, 1036, 1086 
Xylosteum, 392 



Y. 

Yellow Arum, 887 
Flag, 887 

Mountain Violet, 73 
Star Flower, 350 
Underwing, 1096 
Water Lily, S83 

Yews, 516 

weeping, 479 

Yuccas, 455, 754 
waterside, 895 

Yulan, 393 



Z. 

Zaluzianskia, 250 
Zamia, 859 
Zebrina, 682, 754 
Zenobia, 419 
Zephyr Flower, 355 
Zephyranthes, 355 
Zingiber, 6S3 
Zinnia, 254 

Zonal Pelargonium, 716 
Zygopetalum, 610 



I 




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Works. By J. H. Slater. Third Edition, with latest prices at 
Auction. In cloth gilt, price 153. nett, by post 15s. 5d. 

Painters and Their Works. 

A Work of the Greatest Value to Collectors and such as are 
interested in the Art, as it gives, besides Biographical Sketches of 
all the Artists of Repute (not now living) from the 13th Century to 
the present date, tlie Market Value of the Principal Works Painted 
by Them, with Full Descriptions of Same. In 3 vols., cloth gilt, 
price 37s. 6d. nett, by post 38s. 3d. 

A Guide to the Coins of Great Britain and 
Ireland. 

In Gold, Silver, and Copner, from the Earliest Period to the Present 
Time, with their Value. By the late Colonel W. Stewart 
Thorburn. Third Edition. Revised and Enlarged by H. A. 
Grueber, F.S.A. Illustrated. In cloth gilt, price 10s. 6d. nett, by 
post 10s. lOd. 



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